Nice in depth look on the KX! I would love to see a bit more sample shots in daylight. Subbed. Keep it up, here’s my part on bringing you to 1K subscribers! 💪🏼🔥
U don't want to shoot the komodo at 3200 at night.. higher isos protect highlights... Lower isos prioritize shadows. Try the night test at 320-500 for much cleaner shadows
Interesting that you would say that since I thought all cameras needed to shoot at higher ISO during low light scenes. Such a low ISO would have heavily underexposed the highlights in the situations I was using this camera.
@@DynamicPhil84 red works backwards of what you would think. Reds get consistent 16 stops of DR. At iso800, you get 8 stops highlight and 8 stops in the shadows. Say u move a stop from 800 to 1600... You're now getting 9 stops of highlights and 7 stops of shadows. In the inverse, shooting at iso400, you get 9 stops in the shadows and 7 stops in the highlights, and so on. It sounds crazy but when it's crazy sunny out, you want to shoot and protect your highlights by shooting at a higher iso... When it's lowlight you want to shoot lower isos, to reduce noise because you're now prioritizing your DR in the shadows. Trust me.. watch the red videos they post on RUclips, this is vastly different than normal mirror less camera isos, that add gain to the sensor when you go above their base/native iso. Red's sensor gain is static.. it does not change. ISO200 all the way to 12800 has the SAME gain. The only thing you're doing is choosing whether to prioritize your DR in the highlights or shadows by going above or below 800. 800 is not native iso (as red's don't have a native iso) but it's where it's balanced, 8 in the shadows, 8 in the highlights. Do your research and you'll see a ton of info red puts out about this.
For the OG Komodo, replace the antenna with a drone lollipop antenna and the connect will be waaay better. I replaced the antennas on all my Reds.
Oh nice man thanks for the tip! Do you have a link to the one that you purchased?
@@Nuggiesforall Tic Tacs and drone lollipops... these sound like yummy candy LOL Please share some links, I will definitely look into these, thanks!!
Nice in depth look on the KX! I would love to see a bit more sample shots in daylight. Subbed. Keep it up, here’s my part on bringing you to 1K subscribers! 💪🏼🔥
Thank you Morty! 🙏 I wish I had more time with the KX to shoot during the day. Next time I am able to rent it for sure.
U don't want to shoot the komodo at 3200 at night.. higher isos protect highlights... Lower isos prioritize shadows. Try the night test at 320-500 for much cleaner shadows
Interesting that you would say that since I thought all cameras needed to shoot at higher ISO during low light scenes. Such a low ISO would have heavily underexposed the highlights in the situations I was using this camera.
@@DynamicPhil84 red works backwards of what you would think. Reds get consistent 16 stops of DR. At iso800, you get 8 stops highlight and 8 stops in the shadows. Say u move a stop from 800 to 1600... You're now getting 9 stops of highlights and 7 stops of shadows. In the inverse, shooting at iso400, you get 9 stops in the shadows and 7 stops in the highlights, and so on.
It sounds crazy but when it's crazy sunny out, you want to shoot and protect your highlights by shooting at a higher iso... When it's lowlight you want to shoot lower isos, to reduce noise because you're now prioritizing your DR in the shadows. Trust me.. watch the red videos they post on RUclips, this is vastly different than normal mirror less camera isos, that add gain to the sensor when you go above their base/native iso.
Red's sensor gain is static.. it does not change. ISO200 all the way to 12800 has the SAME gain. The only thing you're doing is choosing whether to prioritize your DR in the highlights or shadows by going above or below 800. 800 is not native iso (as red's don't have a native iso) but it's where it's balanced, 8 in the shadows, 8 in the highlights. Do your research and you'll see a ton of info red puts out about this.