This video was a great help and helped me replace my leaky CV axle seal, the one that goes into the transmission. No more leak! A couple of comments, one thing I would recommend if you are going to the trouble of doing replacing your CV axle is to also replace the transmission seal, my old one looked OK having no tears, but after removal I noticed the rubber was harder than in the new seal, and that's probably why it started to leak, and the replacement OEM seal was only $14. Second, I think you you said tighten the upper castle nut on the control arm to 35 pounds per foot torque, I attempted to do this and noticed the nut traveled a lot further than it was designed to do, in the end I had to loosen it so I could line up and properly insert the cotter pin into the bolt. From what I can see as long as the upper ball joint is seated and locked into position it is going nowhere as they say, the castle nut is there just as an extra safeguard.
@11:11 that part is a lot easier. I've seen so many videos where people are struggling to get the axle from the transmission. You made it look effortless.
yeah most people do not have that fork bar nor a lift to get it high enough to use one. And some axles on hondas are a B%$%h. I use a bar and a hammer to smack them out, But i always try 1st to wrap a strap around the axle and wrap the other end around a 16 lb sledge and yank them out. If not i use the bar and a hammer.
Great video! One suggestion? Remove the fork from the strut. It's one bolt and appears it would have saved quite a bit of drama getting the axle in/out. The job isn't bad....as long as the fasteners come loose. If they don't, it becomes a job you won't soon forget! :)
In addition to removing the bolt/nut to separate the fork from the lower control arm, I remove the nuts from the lower ball joint and tie rod end. Gives plenty of room to get the axle in and out with ease.
Seeing a lot of comments criticizing certain things on how he did this repair. There are multiple ways to go about this so as long as it gets the job done and doesn't tear/rip the boot on the cv axle. Taking the strut fork off shouldn't be too hard but taking the top part off isn't always necessary. Taking the caliper off isn't necessary either obviously. I am going off of my 04-08 TSX but the only things I have seen needing to be done was disconnecting the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. Maneuvering the strut fork around to where you can slip the axle out (or prying it down enough to give you room). Also you may have a vehicle that has two parts to your passenger side axle as well (Intermediate shaft that goes INTO the transmission with the other end connecting to the cv axle as is the case for my 04-08 TSX).
My 2004 Honda Accord EX-L 3.0L has a center bracket that bolts to the engine. Had to remove one bolt practically one flat at a time on an open end wrench, flipping to the 12 point end every other turn. Very time consuming. Lucky for me the exhaust was already removed so I could slide it out from the inside, plus it provided room to work. Ultimately I'm dropping the frame cradle to replace the 5 speed BAYA automatic trans. The old 2004 looks like brand new with almost 300K miles but I'll never touch another one.
Good video, couple of different ways to do this job. for extra $10 I would have replaced the axle oil seal. also you could have easily got the axle in without removing brake caliper by installing the same way you removed, lol.
Thanks Len. 1A Auto always pretty detailed videos. But I have to say, when I do Hondas I do the lower ball joint and lower strut connection. All that needs doing to pop that axle. Also, the one I'm doing now is a 2 piece on the PSide. This CID and another show it as a one piece. The one I'm doing is an 04 Accord V6. Maybe yours is a 4 cylinder. All said... it's a good video. Thank to you and 1A for doing these vids.
Ok, so I have an 03 accord and mine is different. 1. The c/v axle does not go directly into the trans. There's a connector shaft between the c/v axle and the trans. 2 the trans side of my axle is female splined and where it meets that connector shift, there is rubber that goes around the axle.
You used a rubber mallet to drive the axle into the transmission (16:50), but had to pop the axle out again (18:40) so that you can reposition the axle between the fork & into the rotor. Nowhere after this did you show the axle driven back into the transmission. I think you either forgot to film this or failed to do this part. I hope for the customer, you just forgot to film it.
Less wrestling to just remove the caliper on the removal and be nice to yourself from the beginning, gotta have some wiggle room and less mass in the way. Feed it thru the fork on the install. Great video, thanks.
It is allot easier to turn the wheel all the way to the right and remove the lower ball joint and shock/strut fork from the lower control arm. You can then pop the CV out of the hub, push the strut assembly to the right, and slip the axle shaft between the lower control arm and strut assembly. No need to take off so many things. 30min job
I like your videos, I have a question, After I changed my axle seal on my 2011 Acura TSX , I have an error code on the dash board “ abs & vsa light won’t go, any idea? Thank you.
+B We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have read OEM axles should be used.. Highly recommended. Basicly in every forum that I read say the same thing . I need to a axle job and I have no clue if aftermarket will be ok
Aftermarket axles are fine, just make sure you get them from a reputable source. Detroit axle makes quality replacement axles. Now on sensors and things that deal with the engine's performance you may be better off getting OEM but even then, Honda doesn't manufacture these products, look up who makes the product for Honda and then purchase directly from them. Dealerships charge 4x - 6x more than the companies that actually manufacture the part.
At 10:51 what is the silver ring by his left thumb called? I know nothing about cars but have a beater Accord I’ve been trying to self teach and can’t find no matter how hard I search
+@faustoflores2768 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
One thing.. same way out same way in.. scared me when you started doing a break job in the middle of anothet job.. i was like please dont start taking off door panels 😂😂😂😂..
Thought I was the only one. I’m a super novice but the whole time I’m like “ what I’m the heel are you doing?!” I would have just took the hub off and made it a lot simpler
I bottomed out my 2010 accord coupe on the highway from hitting a hump in the road. I take the car to my local pepboys, they want to charge me $1579 to replace the passenger cv axle and the intermediate shaft. After doing some online research for part prices, I don’t see how this repair costs $1579. I don’t the money to dish out like that. I don’t have air tools, but I think I will try to do this myself.
Do it yourself bro it’s easy, just take your time and have the right tools needed , at the Honda dealer OEM axles cost about $800 then and then labor fees , an aftermarket axle cost about $150-$200 , tools you would need are a torque wrench gun , 17mm ,19mm ,14mm and 10mm (sockets , ratchets ,etc) some lube and penetrating lube would make it easier and also don’t forget jack stands make sure you set the up probably and also use safety goggles , this comment goes to whoever wants to do the job themselves feel free to contact me if you have any questions
@@silvaincyt4810 i weight 135 lbs. No im not kidding you, do you think im able to torque down the axle nuts on my 8th accord. The spec is 242 ft lbs. I want to do it myself but i could probably do 150 maybe 160 ft lbs, but 242 is a big step up from what i torqued my brakes to.
+Nicholas Kaloi We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just a word of warning to anyone that’s not in the US or a country where the driver side is on the left-hand side. The axle is different on the opposite side because of the gearbox placement for where the driver states in Australia the one he’s doing is not the right one it’s the last one
I'm guessing he's doing a 4 cylinder engine model since it didn't have that mounting bracket your talking about. I just did mine (06 Accord 4cyl engine) as well and didn't have this bracket or stub axle. Probably specific to the v6 models.
Differs from each manufacturer. I have an 06 TSX which shares some components to the 04-07 Accord (same motor mounts) but the passenger side has an intermediate shaft for me (two pieces).
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Instablaster.
This video was a great help and helped me replace my leaky CV axle seal, the one that goes into the transmission. No more leak! A couple of comments, one thing I would recommend if you are going to the trouble of doing replacing your CV axle is to also replace the transmission seal, my old one looked OK having no tears, but after removal I noticed the rubber was harder than in the new seal, and that's probably why it started to leak, and the replacement OEM seal was only $14. Second, I think you you said tighten the upper castle nut on the control arm to 35 pounds per foot torque, I attempted to do this and noticed the nut traveled a lot further than it was designed to do, in the end I had to loosen it so I could line up and properly insert the cotter pin into the bolt. From what I can see as long as the upper ball joint is seated and locked into position it is going nowhere as they say, the castle nut is there just as an extra safeguard.
@11:11 that part is a lot easier. I've seen so many videos where people are struggling to get the axle from the transmission. You made it look effortless.
yeah most people do not have that fork bar nor a lift to get it high enough to use one. And some axles on hondas are a B%$%h. I use a bar and a hammer to smack them out, But i always try 1st to wrap a strap around the axle and wrap the other end around a 16 lb sledge and yank them out. If not i use the bar and a hammer.
Great video! One suggestion? Remove the fork from the strut. It's one bolt and appears it would have saved quite a bit of drama getting the axle in/out. The job isn't bad....as long as the fasteners come loose. If they don't, it becomes a job you won't soon forget! :)
Yup, I kept yelling at the screen in my head "Remove the fork!" lol...its so easy to do.
In addition to removing the bolt/nut to separate the fork from the lower control arm, I remove the nuts from the lower ball joint and tie rod end. Gives plenty of room to get the axle in and out with ease.
Thanks heaps just completed both cv's on Australian delivered Accord Euro, guide was spot on other than mine has a 36mm axle nut.
Yes!
Seeing a lot of comments criticizing certain things on how he did this repair. There are multiple ways to go about this so as long as it gets the job done and doesn't tear/rip the boot on the cv axle. Taking the strut fork off shouldn't be too hard but taking the top part off isn't always necessary. Taking the caliper off isn't necessary either obviously. I am going off of my 04-08 TSX but the only things I have seen needing to be done was disconnecting the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. Maneuvering the strut fork around to where you can slip the axle out (or prying it down enough to give you room). Also you may have a vehicle that has two parts to your passenger side axle as well (Intermediate shaft that goes INTO the transmission with the other end connecting to the cv axle as is the case for my 04-08 TSX).
Good video my front drive shaft snapped and this video helped me get my new one installed ina about an hour
My 2004 Honda Accord EX-L 3.0L has a center bracket that bolts to the engine. Had to remove one bolt practically one flat at a time on an open end wrench, flipping to the 12 point end every other turn. Very time consuming. Lucky for me the exhaust was already removed so I could slide it out from the inside, plus it provided room to work. Ultimately I'm dropping the frame cradle to replace the 5 speed BAYA automatic trans. The old 2004 looks like brand new with almost 300K miles but I'll never touch another one.
Great video..and great work...give this guy a raise ...I want to buy parts from them already.
+Karl Frankenhoff Thanks so much for the feedback!
@@1AAuto how much am I looking for labor?
for manual transmission accord the axle nut is 36mm instead of 32. learned that the hard way 😂
Good video, couple of different ways to do this job. for extra $10 I would have replaced the axle oil seal. also you could have easily got the axle in without removing brake caliper by installing the same way you removed, lol.
How much am I talking about spending for labor?
Thanks to 1A and the commenters as both were helpful.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful to me. I just replaced the axle in my Accord 2006.God Bless you. 😂
+Edwin Barahona Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks Len. 1A Auto always pretty detailed videos. But I have to say, when I do Hondas I do the lower ball joint and lower strut connection. All that needs doing to pop that axle. Also, the one I'm doing now is a 2 piece on the PSide. This CID and another show it as a one piece. The one I'm doing is an 04 Accord V6. Maybe yours is a 4 cylinder.
All said... it's a good video. Thank to you and 1A for doing these vids.
Mine is a 2 piece do you disconnect it from the 2nd piece?
And what about the dynamic damper on the Honda axle that is not on your brand replacement axle?
I like that boi lyn he good at what he do n explaining give him a raise @1Aauto
Thanks for the video, FYI the big bolt on a Honda accord hybrid is 36mm.
Ok, so I have an 03 accord and mine is different. 1. The c/v axle does not go directly into the trans. There's a connector shaft between the c/v axle and the trans. 2 the trans side of my axle is female splined and where it meets that connector shift, there is rubber that goes around the axle.
This guy made it 1000 % more difficult than it really is 😂😂😂😂😂😂
You used a rubber mallet to drive the axle into the transmission (16:50), but had to pop the axle out again (18:40) so that you can reposition the axle between the fork & into the rotor. Nowhere after this did you show the axle driven back into the transmission. I think you either forgot to film this or failed to do this part. I hope for the customer, you just forgot to film it.
You did waaaay more than needed to get that out lol
Lol mane way too much
Can you recommend a how to video that is better than this one??
Y'all guys are excellent.
Excellent video, excellent video work. FYI - I took me to the site to buy parts, so nice work!
He’s good explaining
Lol I love how he showed the struggle !
My 06 is a 36mm axle nut in the front. 32 for the rear.
I have a 2004 Honda accord 2.4 ex automatic. Do I need to get the ones with the abs ring or no?
Less wrestling to just remove the caliper on the removal and be nice to yourself from the beginning, gotta have some wiggle room and less mass in the way. Feed it thru the fork on the install.
Great video, thanks.
AWESOME TECH!
It is allot easier to turn the wheel all the way to the right and remove the lower ball joint and shock/strut fork from the lower control arm. You can then pop the CV out of the hub, push the strut assembly to the right, and slip the axle shaft between the lower control arm and strut assembly. No need to take off so many things. 30min job
I cried when I seen the tool to pop out the axle from the transmission end😂😂😂😂if they only knew the struggle.
I like your videos, I have a question, After I changed my axle seal on my 2011 Acura TSX , I have an error code on the dash board “ abs & vsa light won’t go, any idea?
Thank you.
+B We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Did you remove negative from the battery?
Thank you!
Hi, nice work there, just asking is the drive shaft a us made & if not where, thanks again
How about for manual transmission with the half intermediate shaft?
Nice video but I'd take off the caliper at the beginning. And I also would use a jack to support arm when assemble.
hey someone tell me if I have to replace the circle clip on the inner axle shaft on 03 pilot
ordoes it evenneed it in tbere
Pretty good! But a very important note, you should've tightened the fork bushing with the car on the ground or the suspension loaded.
How could u tighten the fork bolt when tire is on and it's on the ground? Any input would be great thx ...
@@noblewon3507 Service manual says snug up all bolts, then jack up the suspension til its holding the car's weight, then torque everything down.
@@AndrewSilvaVlogs ok I kinda figured it would be something like that but never hurts to ask .. thanks!!!
You can also load the suspension using a jack also instead of lowering the car.
Do you have a video for 04 acura tl front axle removal?
Do you have to use OEM
I have read OEM axles should be used.. Highly recommended. Basicly in every forum that I read say the same thing . I need to a axle job and I have no clue if aftermarket will be ok
Aftermarket axles are fine, just make sure you get them from a reputable source. Detroit axle makes quality replacement axles. Now on sensors and things that deal with the engine's performance you may be better off getting OEM but even then, Honda doesn't manufacture these products, look up who makes the product for Honda and then purchase directly from them. Dealerships charge 4x - 6x more than the companies that actually manufacture the part.
At 10:51 what is the silver ring by his left thumb called? I know nothing about cars but have a beater Accord I’ve been trying to self teach and can’t find no matter how hard I search
Replaced both axles but now i cant turn my wheel left or right. I followed the same steps in the video. Wondering if my axles are not aligned properly
+@faustoflores2768 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you, this video helped so much!!
+wit- 200 Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Removing the bottom ball joint is easier then the whole thing lifts out
The fork comes off easy
One thing.. same way out same way in.. scared me when you started doing a break job in the middle of anothet job.. i was like please dont start taking off door panels 😂😂😂😂..
Nice video very well explained
Remove at Lower ball joint and fork bolt, is more easier and safer
Thats a lotta extra bolts removed. U could just remove the fork and lower arm ball joint.
Speechless )))))crickets (((((
You do you boo boo 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣lmaoo!!
good video thanks 👌
Guy from 1A auto = "you do you boo boo"
Damn ,no rust on this car compared here in northeast
Painful to watch the install.😆Not sure why he didn't replace it the exact same way he removed it. Shouldn't have had to take the caliper off.
Thought I was the only one. I’m a super novice but the whole time I’m like “ what I’m the heel are you doing?!” I would have just took the hub off and made it a lot simpler
Any reason these axles are different the ones on my car
I bottomed out my 2010 accord coupe on the highway from hitting a hump in the road. I take the car to my local pepboys, they want to charge me $1579 to replace the passenger cv axle and the intermediate shaft. After doing some online research for part prices, I don’t see how this repair costs $1579. I don’t the money to dish out like that. I don’t have air tools, but I think I will try to do this myself.
Do it yourself bro it’s easy, just take your time and have the right tools needed , at the Honda dealer OEM axles cost about $800 then and then labor fees , an aftermarket axle cost about $150-$200 , tools you would need are a torque wrench gun , 17mm ,19mm ,14mm and 10mm (sockets , ratchets ,etc) some lube and penetrating lube would make it easier and also don’t forget jack stands make sure you set the up probably and also use safety goggles , this comment goes to whoever wants to do the job themselves feel free to contact me if you have any questions
@@silvaincyt4810 i weight 135 lbs. No im not kidding you, do you think im able to torque down the axle nuts on my 8th accord. The spec is 242 ft lbs. I want to do it myself but i could probably do 150 maybe 160 ft lbs, but 242 is a big step up from what i torqued my brakes to.
Is it the same as a manual transmission?
+Nicholas Kaloi We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
It's essentially the same. Some models just have a half shaft, which I believe is the manuals. This one was an auto
12 mm on the fork. 10 seconds to remove it.
Just a word of warning to anyone that’s not in the US or a country where the driver side is on the left-hand side. The axle is different on the opposite side because of the gearbox placement for where the driver states in Australia the one he’s doing is not the right one it’s the last one
No abs ring?
Please remove the fork connected to strut only one behind..
Where's the stub axle? Isn't there another piece to the passenger side axle? With a mounting bracket has 3 bolts..
I know the 04 3.0s have this mounting bracket that you speak of it's like an intermediate shaft.
I'm guessing he's doing a 4 cylinder engine model since it didn't have that mounting bracket your talking about. I just did mine (06 Accord 4cyl engine) as well and didn't have this bracket or stub axle. Probably specific to the v6 models.
Shouldve left the caliber alone and removed the wish bone to make your life easier
If you remove the strut it mashes this job easier and the strut is just a few more nuts on top to remove
+@andrewperkins8929 Thanks for the tip!
You didn't need to remove the caliper....making extra work.....why didn't you just install the axle in the same manner you removed the axle???
Did that and the seal. Still have a leak.
07 was supposed to torqued to 181 ft lb for axle nuts
I seen that you ripped the boot
Soooo i got 06 accord lx v6 3.0 my passenger axle is a stub wth up with that
3.0 V6 models need a 36mm for nut!
I didnt even get the sway bar link out and I could get the cv axle out
Ive Taken pics if some how I can send u them so u may better understand my awesome problem
They told the passengers side front axle is bad, I didn’t know it’s 2 separate pieces. I had change one in my Nissan maxima it was one🤔
Differs from each manufacturer. I have an 06 TSX which shares some components to the 04-07 Accord (same motor mounts) but the passenger side has an intermediate shaft for me (two pieces).
I grimaced when he started beating the CV axle in. I am over cautious how remove that’s been my problem in the past.
+Ralph Zimmerman Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Lol yeah ima jus take my L and jus take my car to a shop cause this is too much for me to try and do 😂😂😭.
14:05 except the new part does not have the balancer on it..
Man if im strong enough to do 242 ft lb on my cars axle. I would do it myself
Why does this not work with my v6
Now!!!
Did he not say at the beginning that this was an easy job?
So why did he do it the hard way Boo Boo?
I made a video on removing a stick cv boot if anyone is interested.
Note to self, also just take the caliper off and save a bunch of wrestling.
I swear everyone's passenger axle is longer than mine. 03 Honda accord.
Same, mine looks nothing like this and I also have an 03, v6
Your has a stub axle I assume.. like my 03 account 2.4 .. not sure why every video online dont have this part .. crazy
The Accord Euro has the shorter stub axle with 36mm axle nut, it's drivetrain is the same as Acura rsx in the USA, maybe look at those?
Dude pulled the whole car apart
gimana mau ngejar nya orang sdh di blok kok kenaikan nya ehehehehe
Im sorry, guys, but i always cringe when he pronounces "vehicle" but good video
Don’t even need to pull the caliper 😂😂😂😂🤡
This tutorial would’ve been better if this guy was more serious. His favorite word must be “boo-boo”. Grow up.
Excellent video??? Horrible!
I'm working on an 03 accord and the trans end of the axle is female over male rather male into female like this 07 is.