Now I just took off a two-way switch there were two sets of wires in the back of the box one set I left alone the other set I took apart and now can't remember which two to put back together before I put the three for the switch any idea how to do a quick check on which two I put together they looked a little fried so I want to clean them up and put the back together before I put the switch back together went to go get a tool and forgot which two it was and he suggestions I'm used to changing switches and outlets normally I don't need to use a voltage box but in this case do I turn off the power first cuz I always shut the power off to change my switches bit electrocuted before wasn't fun PS love the video
Very helpful video. For those of you who live in the Chicagoland area, you may or may not know that all wiring has to be installed in metal conduit. Commercial and residential. What that means is you probably won't see the ground screw being used on light switches, because the conduit system is the ground. Anything that is connected to the conduit is part of the ground system. Keep that in mind if you need to put a probe lead on ground.
If I was building today, I would put all wiring in stainless steel conduit, all exposed, not hidden inside the walls. Plumbing too! Right after my divorce.
Wow, thank you very much for the feedback. I am very humbled by your kind words. It is really encouraging to hear when a video was able to help someone or can help multiple folks. So I really appreciate the feedback Jeff and hope to see you around! 🙂
Hey guys and gals, I hope this was helpful. If you liked it, please let me know by clicking the like button and consider subscribing! If you have any questions feel free to shoot them to me here!
How can i test a hot wire without a ground , to see if there is voltage like you explained if we have an older home we would need to find another way to test the hot wire if there isn’t a ground
This wasn't helpful for my issue. I can't figure out why 2 different dedicated GFIs stopped working. They won't test or reset. I wired a regular outlet to one circuit & still won't work. Tested just the wires after removing the GFIs & get 2 different results. Get ground to white hot on one circuit & the other both ground to white & ground to black is hot. 2 different wire test results. Can't figure the issue unless there is a loose wire at the panel or something else going on. I have no clue.. Any help appreciated!
Thank you for this video. I have a multimeter and a no contact probe. Now I know how to use them both. I have a 1998 park model, which is a mobile home type vacation unit, and I'm trying to replace two faulty self-contained light switches. The switches are in the bathroom. One switch goes to the exhaust fan and the other switch goes to the light above the vanity. I purchased two two single pole SC070 switches from a mobile home dealer. When I removed the two old rocker switches, I noticed there were four white Romex cables coming up from the bottom. There was one large staple stapling them to the wood. Doesn't look like there is any problem there. Each switch has one white cable going into the top and one white cable going into the bottom. Between the two switches is a short 6-in white cable. It comes out of the top of the first switch and goes into the bottom of the second switch. Somehow they are using a power tap or power tap and splice method but I'm not sure the person who installed this did it correctly. I have downloaded the installation instructions for the Pass & Seymore switches. Before I removed the switches I marked each one left top, left bottom, right top, and right bottom. Then I marked the connector in the middle as left top, right bottom. This is so I would know exactly how to put the cables into the new switches. When I opened the left SCD switch, some wires just fell out. They weren't connected well. Because of this, I couldn't tell which wire was pressed into the blade connectors first, second, and third. Do you have instruction on this type of switch, an SCD070? I have seen videos where they have gotten rid of the self-contained switch and used a modern traditional switch. It makes sense except for no one talks about the connector cable between my two self-contained switches and why they just eliminate it when they switch to a modern box switch. If you could elaborate at all, that would be great.
Great video. Clear and precise description of how to test for which wires are hot. I'm installing new switches today and until I watched this video, it wasn't clear to me which black wires were load and which were line. Two Thumbs Up!!
Good video. So glad you didn't clutter it up with a bunch of graphics and titles and corny music. What caught my attention was that phrase in your description, "...regardless of wire color." Mine are indecipherable, pink, red and yellow. None of them correspond to what one would think. First try to replace the switch tripped the breaker. Although the voltage tester "pen" works great, I like your suggestion. First I'm going back to the wall box to separate the three wires as far as they will stretch. Then test them again. I have a feeling I'll have to borrow someone's multimeter. Thanks your instruction. ADDENDUM: I used the pen-type voltage tester to find the hot wire, it's red! Perfect! Now all I have to do is figure out what the pink and yellow ones are. Thanks again!
Very helpful, actually the best video for an electrical beginner like me. My condo was built in the 80's. I added a separate light switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. I only have a yellow wire and a white wire in the ceiling to connect to the fan. The fan has connectors and you only get one shot at it. The connector has white, black, ground. I think the yellow wire is the hot wire but if i stick it in the black hot wire portion of the connector and its supposed to go into the white! Well once you put a wire into the connector it will not come out. Your video showed me exactly where to test and how to test. I'll flip the breaker on and test at the switch then test the two (white and yellow) wires for the exhaust fan. Thank you.
I have a problem with my wires it is old wtre with just white and black wire and wire is old paper coated in my ceiling there is at least 8 white wires a d 8 black wires and upstairs I have no bed room lights what do I do to have my lights working.
Just as Patrick commented already, very helpful for electrical beginners or someone like myself that has done it before but it's not often and has been a long time. Subscribed!
This video was doubly helpful. Several other videos recommended the pen-type voltage detectors, without a full explanation of possible downsides. This one demonstrated not only pen-style detectors, but also multimeters ... I already have a multimeter and now will save the time and $ of adding a pen-type detector to my DIY arsenal. Kudos!
Really should get a non-contact voltage tester as it is quick and the situation may arise where the wire you want to test has a wire nut on it. Or you’re working on a ladder and reaching over your head to find the hot wire. What he didn’t mention is that you should check the NCV tester on a hot circuit before using it to make sure it is functioning properly. BTW- I have both devices.
Thanks so much for how you explained everything. I'm a first time home owner and have had to learn just about everything by myself. I watched at least 4 other videos first that still left me unsure, really appreciate your help.
Great video, I thank you for sharing the warnings of when not to rely just on the tool, as a novice, or someone that just knows enough to be unsafe! Great reminder to double check and also take that extra step and just kill the power, be safe, we matter!
Great video and very well explained. I know you mentioned that the non-contact voltage tester cant be relied on 100% in some circumstances. What about just verifying power is out after turning off a breaker? Would you rely on the voltage tester alone or bust out a multimeter?
Adam, this was a great presentation. What if you don't have a ground or neutral in that switch box? In most cases you don't. The switched side of the circuit is the only thing in there. Have you ever used a two wire neon test light? You can identify the HOT or line wire without a ground or neutral. You might not want to show this in this venue, but it works.
I really like simple straight forward videos on how to do very simple tasks and that was PERFECT! great job.. After I do this a dozen or so times I will look to do more difficult routine checking.. thanks again.... Jim
I have had 3 Klein testers, never a problem. My very first tester was a commercial electric brand, and it burned me the first month I had it. Buy quality for this kind of stuff, I believe it helps.
Adam, another very helpful video. Thanks! I will keep searching for information on my challenge of a two-wire older home I recently bought. Great house and property but I believe it was wired back in the dark ages. ...Tom
It was helpful, BUT, what if I don't have any ground cable or anything to put the black probe to ground? Being a concrete wall with plastic wire boxes, no ground wiring and nothing nearby to use as ground...
Run an extension cord from a nearby live outlet- that IS grounded- to the area you’re working in. Stick the black probe into the female ground of the extension cord (the round hole).
Hi Adam, I heard you say that depending on the home, some neutral wires will be hot...why is that? My home is wired that way and still trying to figure out why the white wire enjoys shocking me every so often. Great videos I recently subscribed and so glad I did...Keep them videos coming. Thank You!
I don't think that he said "some neutral wires will be hot", but rather some "white" wires will be hot. This can be the case in switch loop wiring, in which the power comes in to the light first.
I really appreciate your videos, they are well explained and they show a step-by-step process until the end, there are no shortcuts you get to see the results with no missing steps. I've watched many how to do videos and many would edit and you are like "what just happened", once again thank you.
Adam awesome video. My question is why did you change the tester when you went to the bare wires. Could I have still used the original cheap multimeter tester you started with or was this a special situation with the bare wires where you needed to change the multimeter?
Nicely done, not overly technical or talky. Could you update this with a view to the many newer designs of switches and outlets? Leviton (and probably other makers) have obscured the actual connections so it's hard to test once you've seated a switch! Any way around that problem when swapping out older switches or receptacles?
Hey Clarke, yeah they still carry it and others like it. Just looks like the link that used to go to it has changed. I will get that updated soon. Thanks a lot for letting me know!
Thanks for the very helpful video. Just a little question, some of my electrical outlets have ground and some don't. For the cases when there's no ground wire, can I run an extension cord from an outlet with with ground and touch the ground with the black probe and then touch one of the wires with the red probe to find hot wire?
Thank you for the video. My light switches don't seem to have a ground wire. Where I live we don't have neutral wire in the light switch either. So how do I test for the live wire? Thanks.
Good explanation, however: ■ If the switch is a 2-way switch (3 wires), you will find 2 "hot wires" depending on the position of the other 2-way switch that works together for the same lamp; so, you have to go turn on or off the other switch to find which one of your "hot wires" is actually the hot one; alternatively, you can unscrew all wires in both switches to find the hot wire. ■ If the switch doesn't have a ground wire connected to its ground screw, you will have to use your skin as a neutral, or a neutral from any near outlet (neutral is the larger of the 2 slots), I found a switch on my home, that doesn't have a ground wire connected to its green screw, I will fix that.
My home is probably full of wires that are red and white. I just wired one side of my garage after demo'ing out all the old outlets and the main wires that I hooked up in a new junction box were only red and white. No ground. Same thing with wiring up a chain of LED shop lights. What saved me was having those exact same Klein tools you used in the video.
Non-contact voltage testers can also sense hot wires through Romex sheathing but not well, if at all, through the old 60+ year old type of sheathing that is covered in some sort of woven fabric type material. Even a high end Fluke tester barely lit up when I was tracing the path of a circuit. If you’re dealing with old cables, verify your voltage testing with some other method.
The way I would put it is that if you just need to find the hot wire the voltage tester will do, but if it is necessary to find a fault in the circuit then you need to use the multimeter to check for ground or neutral ground because if the neutral is broken somewhere, the circuit won't work; if you can't get 120v between hot and neutral then the neutral is broken somewhere in the circuit or panel.
Shalom Aleichem. As I'm a retired mechanic on disability I've not done much home electrical work, especially since being zapped 40'ish yrs ago with 220 vts. I'm currently staying at my lady's house while I fix up mine down the rd. She has a well an it was working fine until I got up one morning and the breaker was tripped. I clicked it back on and nothing happened, the pump didn't kick back on. I went out side and located where the wire from the breaker box tapped into the main wire leading to the well hiuse some 100' (+/-) away. I took my red lead from my multimeter and touched it to the black wire coming from the house and my black lead from the multimeter and touched it to the bare nutural wire and got 119.5 vts. I guess I have to go (slowly) into the wood's and check at the well itself. I know to test input wires & press switch, but anyone else have any other idea's that I'm not thinking of? Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
there seems to be a lot of confusion about 30A circuits DO THEY HAVE TO BE DEDICATED or can a 30A amp circuit have multiple receptacles? I understand that sometimes a 30A circuit has to be dedicated if the device is a high amp device but I believe that there is a confusion as to if a 30A circuit always has to be dedicated. That may be idea for a video
Any idea why some resources say to turn off the breaker first? Made no sense to me as how will I read electricity when there’s no electricity running through.
Hello and thinks for sharing your knowledge. I have an old house that was built in the 50'S with the two prong receptacles and someone put in the 3 prong receptacles but they are test for open ground. They have no ground wire in the box. After putting in a gfci receptacle it tested for open hot. So I thought i reversed the blk wire the hot wire to the load and not the line. Still read for open hot . then I swapped the neutral wires around. Now im lost. When I test the wires with a multimeter it backlights red and I get 117.2 Volts and the other blk wire gives me a wired number like 9.679 or something. But the green button on gfci is lit up. I've read you can ground the receptacle box to the grn nut on the gfci. Please help. I need to get this up and running to feed the daisy chain.
Helpful video for sure, but I want to confirm something you said in the video, but did not demonstrate. My 1960's apartment boxes have no ground wire. I was told the metal boxes, conduit pipe, and BX cables are grounded by default, given the way the electrical was laid in my building. I have red and black wires in some of my switch boxes. If I want to test which wire is hot, I need to place the black probe to touch the metal box, and then use the red probe to touch each wire. Whichever wire indicates 120v on the meter, that's the hot wire. Do I have this correct?
Thanks for reading this I know your very busy. Once I find the hot wire, what about the neutral. Are they hot wire specific. Before I took off the 3-prong outlet, it was testing for open ground. They all are testing for open ground because someone just hooked up 3 prong receptacles to a two prong setup. Now that I put in a gfci its testing for an open hot but the little green light next to the test button is lit up. The gfci comes tripped and because the wires are still off or I need to ground the grci, It wont reset. Just stuck...
At 4:30 when checking the voltage do u have to be careful not to let the red tester touch the metal side of the light switch and the bolt 🔩 at the same time. I think I touched both with the red tester and a big spark popped
Great video. I have a question about a garbage disposal switch.. Mind stop working and I can't figure out which wire is feeding the power to the switch so I can shut the breaker off. The switch is on the right side of a double box. I hope you can help. Thanks
I have and OLD house, tube and knob wiring, I have only a hot and a neutral wire, no box no ground. Both wires are cloth wrapped wire and the same color, how can I tell which is HOT?
You used a multimeter with just one probe touching ground, without touching the other end to a known ground. How does that work and what reading would you expect to get when touching ground?
So I put the meter on AC reading, put my black on ground and red on black but it read very low. Did the same on black to ground and red to white and it read low, then I set the black on white and red on black and it read 120ac. How is that connected to a switch? I thought the black would be the hot and neutrals just get bonded together
What do you do when you are installing a ceiling fan and it does have: ground, hot and neutral wires but in the ceiling box there is not ground to conect, what do you do with the ground wire coming from your fan? Thank you
When I found the hot wire I was shocked
Anddddddd comment of the month goes to you sir 😂 In fact, I think I will pin it.
Never work on a circuit with power service on. It against electrucal code and safety and a ohsa violation
Bet that was a shocking experience
@@jeffburk1692 hahahaha like it be when he gets between a neutral hahaha all his hair be like standing 3 feet tall hahahaha
Now I just took off a two-way switch there were two sets of wires in the back of the box one set I left alone the other set I took apart and now can't remember which two to put back together before I put the three for the switch any idea how to do a quick check on which two I put together they looked a little fried so I want to clean them up and put the back together before I put the switch back together went to go get a tool and forgot which two it was and he suggestions I'm used to changing switches and outlets normally I don't need to use a voltage box but in this case do I turn off the power first cuz I always shut the power off to change my switches bit electrocuted before wasn't fun PS love the video
Very helpful video. For those of you who live in the Chicagoland area, you may or may not know that all wiring has to be installed in metal conduit. Commercial and residential. What that means is you probably won't see the ground screw being used on light switches, because the conduit system is the ground. Anything that is connected to the conduit is part of the ground system. Keep that in mind if you need to put a probe lead on ground.
If I was building today, I would put all wiring in stainless steel conduit, all exposed, not hidden inside the walls. Plumbing too! Right after my divorce.
Thanks. Is this a Chicagoland thing only?
I'm not 100%, but I believe NY City is the same.
Thanks for the info!
Don't let this go to your head, How to Home, but you just did one of the best lessons on how to find the hot wire, that I have seen on RUclips. Jeff
Wow, thank you very much for the feedback. I am very humbled by your kind words. It is really encouraging to hear when a video was able to help someone or can help multiple folks. So I really appreciate the feedback Jeff and hope to see you around! 🙂
Thank you for not getting too technical. Just the right amount. Thanks
Awesome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback!
Men are amazing! Great Builders, creators!! Teachers🎉
Weak
Hey guys and gals, I hope this was helpful. If you liked it, please let me know by clicking the like button and consider subscribing! If you have any questions feel free to shoot them to me here!
Hi Adam, can you make a video on how to troubleshoot why my outside power outlet isn't working?
How can i test a hot wire without a ground , to see if there is voltage like you explained if we have an older home we would need to find another way to test the hot wire if there isn’t a ground
This wasn't helpful for my issue. I can't figure out why 2 different dedicated GFIs stopped working. They won't test or reset. I wired a regular outlet to one circuit & still won't work. Tested just the wires after removing the GFIs & get 2 different results. Get ground to white hot on one circuit & the other both ground to white & ground to black is hot. 2 different wire test results. Can't figure the issue unless there is a loose wire at the panel or something else going on. I have no clue..
Any help appreciated!
Thank you for this video. I have a multimeter and a no contact probe. Now I know how to use them both. I have a 1998 park model, which is a mobile home type vacation unit, and I'm trying to replace two faulty self-contained light switches. The switches are in the bathroom. One switch goes to the exhaust fan and the other switch goes to the light above the vanity. I purchased two two single pole SC070 switches from a mobile home dealer. When I removed the two old rocker switches, I noticed there were four white Romex cables coming up from the bottom. There was one large staple stapling them to the wood. Doesn't look like there is any problem there. Each switch has one white cable going into the top and one white cable going into the bottom. Between the two switches is a short 6-in white cable. It comes out of the top of the first switch and goes into the bottom of the second switch. Somehow they are using a power tap or power tap and splice method but I'm not sure the person who installed this did it correctly. I have downloaded the installation instructions for the Pass & Seymore switches. Before I removed the switches I marked each one left top, left bottom, right top, and right bottom. Then I marked the connector in the middle as left top, right bottom. This is so I would know exactly how to put the cables into the new switches. When I opened the left SCD switch, some wires just fell out. They weren't connected well. Because of this, I couldn't tell which wire was pressed into the blade connectors first, second, and third. Do you have instruction on this type of switch, an SCD070? I have seen videos where they have gotten rid of the self-contained switch and used a modern traditional switch. It makes sense except for no one talks about the connector cable between my two self-contained switches and why they just eliminate it when they switch to a modern box switch. If you could elaborate at all, that would be great.
Wow, I just wanted to thank you for making such an incredibly helpful video! It really made a difference in my understanding of electrical wiring.
Thank you! Holding the black probe in holster of the multimeter made all the difference.
Great video. Clear and precise description of how to test for which wires are hot. I'm installing new switches today and until I watched this video, it wasn't clear to me which black wires were load and which were line. Two Thumbs Up!!
Good video. So glad you didn't clutter it up with a bunch of graphics and titles and corny music.
What caught my attention was that phrase in your description, "...regardless of wire color." Mine are indecipherable, pink, red and yellow. None of them correspond to what one would think. First try to replace the switch tripped the breaker. Although the voltage tester "pen" works great, I like your suggestion. First I'm going back to the wall box to separate the three wires as far as they will stretch. Then test them again. I have a feeling I'll have to borrow someone's multimeter. Thanks your instruction.
ADDENDUM: I used the pen-type voltage tester to find the hot wire, it's red! Perfect! Now all I have to do is figure out what the pink and yellow ones are. Thanks again!
Very helpful, actually the best video for an electrical beginner like me. My condo was built in the 80's. I added a separate light switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. I only have a yellow wire and a white wire in the ceiling to connect to the fan. The fan has connectors and you only get one shot at it. The connector has white, black, ground. I think the yellow wire is the hot wire but if i stick it in the black hot wire portion of the connector and its supposed to go into the white! Well once you put a wire into the connector it will not come out. Your video showed me exactly where to test and how to test. I'll flip the breaker on and test at the switch then test the two (white and yellow) wires for the exhaust fan. Thank you.
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful! I will probably be doing the same as you are doing soon. Would rather have the fan and light separated.
I have a problem with my wires it is old wtre with just white and black wire and wire is old paper coated in my ceiling there is at least 8 white wires a d 8 black wires and upstairs I have no bed room lights what do I do to have my lights working.
Just as Patrick commented already, very helpful for electrical beginners or someone like myself that has done it before but it's not often and has been a long time. Subscribed!
Really glad to hear it was a good refresher for you. Thanks for the feedback and look forward to seeing you around Kent!
This video was doubly helpful. Several other videos recommended the pen-type voltage detectors, without a full explanation of possible downsides. This one demonstrated not only pen-style detectors, but also multimeters ... I already have a multimeter and now will save the time and $ of adding a pen-type detector to my DIY arsenal. Kudos!
Awesome, glad you liked it. I definitely believe that every tool has its place. Enjoy the new toy. Thanks for the feedback!
Really should get a non-contact voltage tester as it is quick and the situation may arise where the wire you want to test has a wire nut on it. Or you’re working on a ladder and reaching over your head to find the hot wire. What he didn’t mention is that you should check the NCV tester on a hot circuit before using it to make sure it is functioning properly. BTW- I have both devices.
Thanks so much for how you explained everything. I'm a first time home owner and have had to learn just about everything by myself. I watched at least 4 other videos first that still left me unsure, really appreciate your help.
This is a great tool for verifying that the electrical is not hot at a certain point and finding which switches are part of a circuit.
Great video, I thank you for sharing the warnings of when not to rely just on the tool, as a novice, or someone that just knows enough to be unsafe! Great reminder to double check and also take that extra step and just kill the power, be safe, we matter!
Glad you liked it Jesse! Can never be too safe! Thanks for the feedback!
Great video and very well explained. I know you mentioned that the non-contact voltage tester cant be relied on 100% in some circumstances. What about just verifying power is out after turning off a breaker? Would you rely on the voltage tester alone or bust out a multimeter?
Adam, this was a great presentation. What if you don't have a ground or neutral in that switch box? In most cases you don't. The switched side of the circuit is the only thing in there. Have you ever used a two wire neon test light? You can identify the HOT or line wire without a ground or neutral. You might not want to show this in this venue, but it works.
Thank you!! You rock for “ presentation “!! Great job. We are the people.
You are very welcome! Glad you liked it. Thank you for the feedback!
I really like simple straight forward videos on how to do very simple tasks and that was PERFECT! great job.. After I do this a dozen or so times I will look to do more difficult routine checking.. thanks again.... Jim
Thanks for explaining this.. really appreciate your help...
I have had 3 Klein testers, never a problem. My very first tester was a commercial electric brand, and it burned me the first month I had it. Buy quality for this kind of stuff, I believe it helps.
Adam, another very helpful video. Thanks! I will keep searching for information on my challenge of a two-wire older home I recently bought. Great house and property but I believe it was wired back in the dark ages. ...Tom
Yeah a two wire does point to an older home. But I am sure it is build better than a lot of what is built today. I appreciate the feedback Tom.
This was very helpful and clear, thank you!
Thanks, the hole in the wall with bare wires is my exact predicament
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
It was helpful, BUT, what if I don't have any ground cable or anything to put the black probe to ground? Being a concrete wall with plastic wire boxes, no ground wiring and nothing nearby to use as ground...
Run an extension cord from a nearby live outlet- that IS grounded- to the area you’re working in. Stick the black probe into the female ground of the extension cord (the round hole).
Words can’t express how happy and thankful I am for finding this video😩 yall just don’t know lol.
Hi Adam, I heard you say that depending on the home, some neutral wires will be hot...why is that? My home is wired that way and still trying to figure out why the white wire enjoys shocking me every so often. Great videos I recently subscribed and so glad I did...Keep them videos coming. Thank You!
I don't think that he said "some neutral wires will be hot", but rather some "white" wires will be hot. This can be the case in switch loop wiring, in which the power comes in to the light first.
So very helpful. Thank you so much for instructing us on this subject! 😊
I really appreciate your videos, they are well explained and they show a step-by-step process until the end, there are no shortcuts you get to see the results with no missing steps. I've watched many how to do videos and many would edit and you are like "what just happened", once again thank you.
I learnt a lot today. Thank you for taking the time to explain in simple detail. I appreciate it.
Learned a lot from your post.
Thanks a bunch! Don't have a wand for testing but I had a continuity tester so I was able to identify the line wire for a dimmer switch install!
Solid explanation! Short, sweet and to the point!!
Adam awesome video. My question is why did you change the tester when you went to the bare wires. Could I have still used the original cheap multimeter tester you started with or was this a special situation with the bare wires where you needed to change the multimeter?
No the original multimeter would work too. I just picked that one up. Thanks a lot for the feedback Richard!
Great video. Thanks! Helped me remodeling my bathroom.
Awesome, you are welcome. Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the feedback!
Nicely done, not overly technical or talky. Could you update this with a view to the many newer designs of switches and outlets? Leviton (and probably other makers) have obscured the actual connections so it's hard to test once you've seated a switch! Any way around that problem when swapping out older switches or receptacles?
Hi Adam. Thanks for all your videos! Just wanted to mention that at 02:50, this specific tool was actually recalled - and Amazon no longer carries it.
Hey Clarke, yeah they still carry it and others like it. Just looks like the link that used to go to it has changed. I will get that updated soon. Thanks a lot for letting me know!
Wondering if they still carry? Web link is still not working for me? Please advise. Appreciate it and thanks in advance.
Ok thank you for letting me know. I have fixed it. This link will take you to it: amzn.to/41cPDgq
Thanks for the very helpful video. Just a little question, some of my electrical outlets have ground and some don't. For the cases when there's no ground wire, can I run an extension cord from an outlet with with ground and touch the ground with the black probe and then touch one of the wires with the red probe to find hot wire?
Good video. Well explained
thanks so much...very helpful as i am about to add outlets in our garage and i'm faced with this particular situation...
You are welcome! Glad you liked it!
Thank you for the video. My light switches don't seem to have a ground wire. Where I live we don't have neutral wire in the light switch either. So how do I test for the live wire? Thanks.
yah this was important to know- because of this i am back as a subscriber. thanks.
I am glad you found it to be helpful! Glad to have ya back!
Good explanation, however:
■ If the switch is a 2-way switch (3 wires), you will find 2 "hot wires" depending on the position of the other 2-way switch that works together for the same lamp; so, you have to go turn on or off the other switch to find which one of your "hot wires" is actually the hot one; alternatively, you can unscrew all wires in both switches to find the hot wire.
■ If the switch doesn't have a ground wire connected to its ground screw, you will have to use your skin as a neutral, or a neutral from any near outlet (neutral is the larger of the 2 slots), I found a switch on my home, that doesn't have a ground wire connected to its green screw, I will fix that.
Great video!! Thanks!!
Clear and concise. Thanks.
Very good instructions.
I only have one question: Are you related to Derek Carr?
I am not. Would be cool to meet him though!
@@HowToHomeDIY
HA HA!
Excellent presentation, clear, succinct and helpful
Really glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks a lot for the feedback Travis!
My home is probably full of wires that are red and white. I just wired one side of my garage after demo'ing out all the old outlets and the main wires that I hooked up in a new junction box were only red and white. No ground. Same thing with wiring up a chain of LED shop lights. What saved me was having those exact same Klein tools you used in the video.
I hear ya! Having the right tools for the job really can make everything so much easier! Glad they were helpful for you and your projects!
Non-contact voltage testers can also sense hot wires through Romex sheathing but not well, if at all, through the old 60+ year old type of sheathing that is covered in some sort of woven fabric type material. Even a high end Fluke tester barely lit up when I was tracing the path of a circuit. If you’re dealing with old cables, verify your voltage testing with some other method.
Very well explanation on how to test for hot wires. Thanks!
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback!
The way I would put it is that if you just need to find the hot wire the voltage tester will do, but if it is necessary to find a fault in the circuit then you need to use the multimeter to check for ground or neutral ground because if the neutral is broken somewhere, the circuit won't work; if you can't get 120v between hot and neutral then the neutral is broken somewhere in the circuit or panel.
Yup, good tip Carl. Thanks for the feedback!
Hi. When using this for your second example ( exposed wire not attached to light switch) do I need to shut power off from breaker box first?
this video was very very helpful, thank you so much!!!
Thanks, it was very helpful.
Glad it helped! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Thank you
Thank you so very much. It was clearly and calmly explained. It help me a lot. Merci beaucoup!
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I needed to know, exactly when I needed to know it.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for a great video really helpful
Really glad to hear you found it helpful!
Excellent tutorial, thank you!!
I am really glad to hear that you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!!
Thanks for an informative and useful video. I appreciate the work you put into it. Stay safe!
You are welcome, thank you for watching and for the feedback! Take care!
Shalom Aleichem.
As I'm a retired mechanic on disability I've not done much home electrical work, especially since being zapped 40'ish yrs ago with 220 vts.
I'm currently staying at my lady's house while I fix up mine down the rd. She has a well an it was working fine until I got up one morning and the breaker was tripped.
I clicked it back on and nothing happened, the pump didn't kick back on.
I went out side and located where the wire from the breaker box tapped into the main wire leading to the well hiuse some 100' (+/-) away.
I took my red lead from my multimeter and touched it to the black wire coming from the house and my black lead from the multimeter and touched it to the bare nutural wire and got 119.5 vts.
I guess I have to go (slowly) into the wood's and check at the well itself.
I know to test input wires & press switch, but anyone else have any other idea's that I'm not thinking of?
Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
Good vid, great advice. You know what they say about Electrocution: It Hurts Like Hell the Entire Time You are Dying. Be Safe.
Thank you so much very helpful video
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have a video,, that has a light switch that can also control the receptacle, for off & on switch??
Thanks.
there seems to be a lot of confusion about 30A circuits DO THEY HAVE TO BE DEDICATED or can a 30A amp circuit have multiple receptacles? I understand that sometimes a 30A circuit has to be dedicated if the device is a high amp device but I believe that there is a confusion as to if a 30A circuit always has to be dedicated. That may be idea for a video
Does it matter which neutral wire I use in place of the ground. Could I touch something metal to give ground just for the test?
Thanks for the info I need,, and knowledge,,
You are welcome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback.
Any idea why some resources say to turn off the breaker first? Made no sense to me as how will I read electricity when there’s no electricity running through.
Hello and thinks for sharing your knowledge. I have an old house that was built in the 50'S with the two prong receptacles and someone put in the 3 prong receptacles but they are test for open ground. They have no ground wire in the box. After putting in a gfci receptacle it tested for open hot. So I thought i reversed the blk wire the hot wire to the load and not the line. Still read for open hot . then I swapped the neutral wires around. Now im lost. When I test the wires with a multimeter it backlights red and I get 117.2 Volts and the other blk wire gives me a wired number like 9.679 or something. But the green button on gfci is lit up. I've read you can ground the receptacle box to the grn nut on the gfci. Please help. I need to get this up and running to feed the daisy chain.
Great vid except how do you ID the ground wire? I have three unidentified wires with colored coatings I have never seen.
Ground will either be a bare copper wire or green. Or at least it should be.
the beautiful easiest way to teach I love it sir
Helpful video for sure, but I want to confirm something you said in the video, but did not demonstrate. My 1960's apartment boxes have no ground wire. I was told the metal boxes, conduit pipe, and BX cables are grounded by default, given the way the electrical was laid in my building. I have red and black wires in some of my switch boxes. If I want to test which wire is hot, I need to place the black probe to touch the metal box, and then use the red probe to touch each wire. Whichever wire indicates 120v on the meter, that's the hot wire. Do I have this correct?
what do you do if you dont know which terminal is ground? or youre not confident it's connected to ground properly?
thankyou
Thanks for reading this I know your very busy. Once I find the hot wire, what about the neutral. Are they hot wire specific. Before I took off the 3-prong outlet, it was testing for open ground. They all are testing for open ground because someone just hooked up 3 prong receptacles to a two prong setup. Now that I put in a gfci its testing for an open hot but the little green light next to the test button is lit up. The gfci comes tripped and because the wires are still off or I need to ground the grci, It wont reset.
Just stuck...
Great thanks
You are welcome!
Very very helpful thank you
I think you just saved my job loo
I am glad I was able to help then!
Which meter/tester is a better inexpensive type that can be used in almost all scenarios?
you can lick the cable to find out the problem with this method is that you can only really do it once
Great video. Thanks!
You are welcome! Glad you liked it!
At 4:30 when checking the voltage do u have to be careful not to let the red tester touch the metal side of the light switch and the bolt 🔩 at the same time. I think I touched both with the red tester and a big spark popped
Yeah definitely only let it touch the one terminal or you may turn your multimeter into a welder.
@@HowToHomeDIY haha I know wht u mean now 😂. 💥 Thanks for the video and your response.
You really should educate yourself on electrical circuits before messing with this stuff if that came as a surprise
Good job! Thanks.
You are welcome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback!
For a single pole switch does it even matter if the hot wire is mounted on top or bottom switch location?
Great video 👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Victor.
Great thanks.
You're welcome!
Thank you. That was helpful.
Thanks very much for the information.
Are you testing with power on at breaker or off?
If I’m looking for which wire is hot, the breaker has to be on.
Great video. I have a question about a garbage disposal switch.. Mind stop working and I can't figure out which wire is feeding the power to the switch so I can shut the breaker off. The switch is on the right side of a double box. I hope you can help. Thanks
Thank you very informative.
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this helpful video
I have and OLD house, tube and knob wiring, I have only a hot and a neutral wire, no box no ground. Both wires are cloth wrapped wire and the same color, how can I tell which is HOT?
Really helpful! Thanks mate 👍
You used a multimeter with just one probe touching ground, without touching the other end to a known ground. How does that work and what reading would you expect to get when touching ground?
So I put the meter on AC reading, put my black on ground and red on black but it read very low. Did the same on black to ground and red to white and it read low, then I set the black on white and red on black and it read 120ac. How is that connected to a switch? I thought the black would be the hot and neutrals just get bonded together
What do you do when you are installing a ceiling fan and it does have: ground, hot and neutral wires but in the ceiling box there is not ground to conect, what do you do with the ground wire coming from your fan?
Thank you
Leave it or u can connect ur ground if it’s a metal box
Thank you it’s very good video