Easily Repair Damaged Burl and Figured Veneer
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Burl veneers usually have some defects, most commonly, they will have holes in them. These holes must be repaired before you can use your veneer in a project. This video shows a very easy way to make perfect veneer repairs!
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You are the Bob Ross of wood working, really. I'm fascinated.
LOL! Thanks Merlin, that's the best compliment that I've had in a long time!
@@JackbenchWoodworking 👍oh, and by the way, I have two questions... I bought some walnut burl veneer sheets from ebay, and they are a bit wavy... I saw a simple method of flattening which is spaying some water on the wood and behind, then clamp it for a night. Do you recommend this technique, considering I don't have much gear?
Then, about the gluing... If I place a plywood plank over the veneered wood after gluing, then place multiple heavy objects on top, is it going to work well?
@@merlinthomi HI Merlin, flattening with water "might" work but you are much better off using a commercial veneer flattener. It runs about $20 a bottle and you can find it at Veneer Supplies.com
Clamping with heavy weights can work, but you need lots of weight and take care to make sure that the weight is evenly spread across the entire panel. If the panel isn't too large then clamping between thick cauls is probably less risky.
@@JackbenchWoodworking thank you very much for your answer! I might try water, but do I risk something bad?
@@merlinthomi Veneer will expand and move when it gets wet, sometimes quite dramatically. It will expand with the veneer softener, but more with water. Try it on one piece to see how it goes (if you have enough to spare). If it works, then great! If not, then try some softener.
Good tip, thanks. My parents collected antique furniture as I was growing up. One of the nicest pieces was a music Canterbury. Not sure how long they had it, but it was only a few years ago I noticed most of the burl on the top was heavily repaired. I couldn't tell if it was part of the original work or had been repaired later. This discovery helped me start to get over my overly sensitiveness to flaws in my projects and workmanship!
Great comment, thanks!
Great repair
Thanks!
A lovely and most informative demonstration.on veneering
thank you
Thanks, I'm glad that you enjoyed the video.
Great info, Charlie! Veneer is something I haven't tackled yet, but it seems awesome.
Braxton Wirthlin Thanks Braxton! I am planning a few more videos on veneering.
That looks great. Well done! I assume this would probably cause inconsistencies if you were staining it after the repair. At least with water based stains. Although, on such a dark piece it might not be noticeable.
Yes, you "might" notice a difference if you were staining over this repair. But, like you said, it is so dark that it might not show. Thanks for watching!
Very Nice Jack Great tips That's an awesome looking piece of veneer
Thanks Terry!
Charlie, Hey DeJavue all over again. These must be the veneers that you showed how to flatten. Thanks for triggering some stuff .
Thomas Tieffenbacher/DocSavage45 Nope, that was a different batch, but I do still have the veneer from that video!
Jack Bench Woodworking I will try to remember this most useful tip. Thanks
Thanks Willem! I have a few other veneer videos planned so stay tuned!
And at a guess one of these may include how to differentiate between the front and back of veneer (and why it is important).
Wow, I am sorry I didn't elaborate on that more in the video. Very often the two sides of veneer will feel differently, it is something to do with how it is sliced off the log. In this case, one side will feel more "rough" and the other side will feel more smooth. It is best to use the smooth side for the top (show side) if possible. Of course this is impossible if you are bookmatching because you use both sides anyway.
What I was referring to in the video was that cutting on the back side will reduce the risk of any incidental damage i.e. slip of the knife, etc.
That was an awesome tip dude!!! It's unnoticeable!!
Thanks Eloy. I will post another one soon on how to fix veneer with splits in it.
That will be cool! I love visiting your shop!
Good job Charlie, good information!!!😎😎
Thanks Bob!!
You said the repair goes on the back. What determines the back of the veneer? All your videos are well done. Thanks1
William Branham You decide which side is the show side and which is the back. Then do all repair work on the back and you are much less likely to damage the show side. Thanks!
Solid work, Charlie!
Thanks doood!
Great video, nice information!
Thanks Phil!
Great video and great repair!
Thanks! I'm glad that you liked it.
Nice tutorial Charlie. The repair really is invisible. So what are you making with the veneer?
Thanks Guy! I am making a 4-way book matched panel. Not sure, maybe make a table out of it somewhere down the line.
I am doing the same things... but in photoshop ; ) It's much easier. Great tutorial.
LOL!!!
Lol squared
I have a couple of small areas on my piano that have walnut vaneer that's popping up slightly. What glue is best for this purpose
Try working some original Titebond under the loose veneer and immediately clamp a piece of wood over it. Be sure to put some wax paper between the veneer and the wood block to prevent it from getting glued to the veneer.
Has anyone every told you - you sound like principal skinner!
LOL!!! Thanks Bob!
The actor that played Principal Skinner (Armin Shimerman) also voiced Andrew Ryan in the Bioshock video game.
Would pva glue be suitable if the veneer was varnished ? thanks
This works best with raw veneer because the moisture in the glue helps the wood fibers to swell which helps to fill the void. If the damaged area is small then this method might work on a finished piece. Does this help?
If you zoom better to could see what are you doing it would be nice
Point taken, Thank You!