I'm here because I just learned that one DOES NOT use an electric orbital sander on veneer .... THE HARD WAY. Just as I was about to call it good I touched a spot ON THE FRONT (of course) of a beautiful old Cedar Chest that I'm refinishing for my wife ....ooops. Apparentyl there was a "blister" under the finish where the glue either let go or was never there. I came to YOU TUBE looking for help AND HERE WE ARE !!! You have been a wonderful help !! Thank you !
One method I've used to make veneer patches is to put the new veneer over the broken area and cut through both at the same time. The patch will always fit perfectly. You can temporarily Mark the cut line with tape to ensure you get all the damaged veneer removed.
You can rebrass steel by running a brass wire wheel over it at high speeds, the heat sticks a thin layer of brass to the steel and makes it look shiny gold again
My grandmother was a cabinet maker at a young age in his homeland of Jamaica. He joined the Military based in England. He loved carpentry and after WW2, he moved to Canada and worked as a carpenter for over 40 years at Massey Ferguson. You used all the tools he used. Love the work you do, keep up the great work!!!
Congratulations. When you said this was only your second time doing veneer patching and you had learned a lot from this - that is the big point. Paying attention to how and what you do - then seeing the results, and then taking the time to consider how you could have done it better. That is missing from a lot of people working in these trades. Being that it is from the 1930s - I am guessing it is shellac. In the 1930s the manufacturers really transitioned over from shellac to nitrocellulose lacquer. After WW I there was a lot unused cellulose nitrate left over (used for making gun powder). With the end of the war - a method was developed to make this into a fast drying finish. The reason I think it is shellac is that the finish looks in relatively good condition. Shellac (while considered weak by modern standard) really does hold up well to age. Lacquer on the other hand tends to "alligator skin" with age, and other modern finishes all have their problems. I don't do a huge amount of veneer work, but enough lol. Here are some ideas you can maybe use... or possibly others. - The cracking looks more like the veneer is split - pretty common with burls. - Could use sandpaper to clean the old glue out from under the loose veneer. I will take a piece and fold it so you have abrasive on both sides. Slide it under and push on the veneer while pulling it out. Repeat a few times to get the old glue off. - When making patches, it will look better to do "boat bow" () shapes, triangles (if the bottom flat is an edge), or even diamonds. Flat edges should only be placed only going in the same direction of the grain. The cross grain edges should be angled or bowed so the seam isn't straight. The larger the angle the harder it is to see. ** Not at 9:32 - there is veneer patches on the upper right and left. This is not uncommon and the manufacture probably had holes in those areas... and if you look over the very top on the same frame you can see a few others. - When finding a veneer patch - look not only at grain, but pores as well. You can also check wood color by wetting it with paint thinner - though if you are applying shellac or lacquer will probably make it look slightly darker than those finishes will. - You might get a tighter patch by placing the new piece on top of the damage and cutting both at once - Though I have also made tracings like you did... and then used sandpaper to fine tune the veneer patch edges until they fit perfect (this means you might want to cut the patch a hair bigger to give room for tuning). - To help prevent the dark seam with patches - You might try holding off on coloring the patch. Get a few coats of finish on and sand to have it flat (with no dip at the seam). Then add color to the patch area (this is technically called toning). It can help reduce that darkening of the seam (because you have sealed the edge grains with the finish and so the stain doesn't seep into it). You can also use acrylic paints. Seal the wood with your finish (just a coat or two). Make up a color that is the same as the wood background (light) color. Use a fine art brush to dot along the seam. This will break it up and help hide it. Since acrylics dry slightly darker than they are in liquid state - you will need to go slightly lighter... and do not apply a finish for at least a few hours as the acrylics need to completely dry so you don't cause blushing or bad adhesion. A note on patching and coloring... It is inevitable that wood darkens as it ages. This means the stains we apply (and the acrylics) may (may) eventually become more noticeable as the wood around it changes. There really is nothing we can do about this. Use a metalized stain (which resists fading), but really it is just a fact of life and something we have to accept (unless someone knows something). Now I want to go watch a more up to date video of yours. Keep at it.
We just moved into a house built in 1960, and all the inside doors are wood. Some have veneer areas missing at the top and bottom. I'm hoping to save them by making veneer patches, and I love your method of using the masking tape to make a template for the cut away area! Brilliant!!
Not to bad for being your second time, I could still see the vaneer moving on the edge when you were taping your finger and I seen a little piece you didn’t put any glue in. You will learn more as time goes and reading the comments really help you to problem solve. There are some really smart and more experienced people out there!
Great. I really learned a lot. I'm repairing veneer for the first time with no help, running into the same issues you talked about, so this was helpful to me, and I don't feel so alone!
What an absolutely beautiful piece--it's so good to see you bring it back to useful life again and to its former beauty. Very skillful repair of that veneer, too. Lovely.
Excellent work- I appreciate the dialogue relating to the quote and original time expectation and what it took to get it done. I've done some veneered front doors, stripped, detail sanded and re-varnished. Each took more time than expected and I'm starting to get a sense of what it really takes to quote out and hit the mark without scaring the customer away and delivering the best work I can for that price-point. I realize with the techniques you've demonstrated that anything is possible, outcome is always better than the start (if you know what you're doing) and it's fun and challenging to take on some of these projects to make a living- also, your energy is great. Thank you Sir!
Veneer isn't easy to repair. The project piece looks great! I learned a new way of making a template for damaged veneer using the masking tape method you showed. Thank you!
If you’ve seen Dashner’s videos he’ll use a tiny tiny paintbrush and carefully blend in the veneers repair cracks with a bit of pigment. That seems to work well. I haven’t tried it myself as I’m too chicken to try veneer repairs yet.
Just go find some old junk furniture that nobody cares about. You can probably get some for free, or at least cheap at a thrift shop. Practice your repairs and sell them for profit!
Rag'n' Bone Brown nice job . You can use junk mail adverts on glossy stock as a glue applicator for narrow gaps. Also use for loose veneer not fully detached . Make incision with exacto knife , put some glue on strip of glossy card stock junk mail ,..insert into crevice back and forth to coat with glue , tape or clamp down . Good as new repaired veneer. Thanks for keeping repairable furniture out of the landfills.
Well you gave me the information I needed. I found a 1930 roos hope chest at a shop. I picked it up for my mom. The top has a nice chunk of veneers missing. And some loos on the side. Good video man you do good work.
Thank you for the video!!!! I will be able to repair a few cabinet doors and suprise my hubby. I was just going to use wood filler and paint them. He was very unhappy with my plan of repair. So thanks again!!!!
Great video thanks. I have a French Louis something chest of drawers with lots of missing veneer that I paid 50 euros for. I found in my barn two old french beds the owners had left behind and most of the veneer had fallen off so I kept it. I also bought a huge box of veneer wood from a man in a car boot sale, he told me that he used to work in a woodworking factory and his ex boss was using the veneer to light his stove ! I paid 20 euros for more than I could carry. I now feel up to restoring this piece, thanks.
There are so many clever tips in your videos. I have a favorite piece I’ve been wanting to save. I think I can manage it now. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Btw, a very good method to glue veneer, is to use an iron. Just glue both parts, let it dry, put them together and heat it with an iron (no steam). Works much quicker, nicer and less awkward as clamping. You also have a lot more control. Also good solution on parts were clamping is not possible. I like to use a roller for the glue in this case.
@@peteypops I don't know. I always used regular wood PVA glue. PVA has the property to soften when being heated. It's actually a quite common veneer technique.
It came out stunning! I would have put the colored wax before the stain.That would have sealed the edge of the patch.Allowing the edge to almost become invisible after staining.Still your TLC shows.I love it.
2:43 For a perfect match of the insert, you can place the new veneer on top of the old one, and use a sharp knife and cut through both at the same time. This way, you get almost a perfect cut between the old and new veneer. It's a trick that's being used with wallpaper (corners etc...)
@@RagnBoneBrownSharp razor knife and very many very light passes will keep the grain from interfering with your cut. Also, if you can cut along the grain of your insert piece it will help to hide the line of the patch.
As for the end grain of the patch soaking up more stain and getting darker and more visible, try staining the patch before cutting it out and then your wax should also be more effective hiding the joint.
I don’t wanna make professionals mad or anything, but watching these videos make it look pretty easy to do. I mean the hardest part looked like finding the right kind of vaneer. Patching, sanding, painting. All looks easy to me. But I can understand just because it looks it doesn’t mean it is. Everyone is telling me since I don’t know anything and never repaired anything that my old vanity was too big of a fix for me, but i would love to try and do it myself. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just usable again. It was passed down to me by my grandfather I never met, he left it with my uncle to specifically give to me when I grew up some, when he found out I was a girl 😊 my mom didn’t like the guy. But I’m sentimental and I also love antiques so I refuse to throw it away
I double cut my patches with a more irregular cut as you would wallpaper rather than make a template, lil more work, but makes for an almost invisible patch. Do at times use a handmade fine sawdust filler or wood grain paste to fill the hairline crack if I get one. Also helps to just faux in matching grain.
Thank you so much for this video, watching it has given me the confidence to have a go myself and I have repaired a Victorian Slope writing box. Not perfect but I am delighted with the finished effect.
Nice. job! This is just the video I've been looking for. I have a waterfall style, cedar lined, blanket chest that I just love but it has a piece of veneer missing from the top (a bit on the large side). I've never known how to fix it, or at least improve the look, so this helps a lot.
Congratulations Keith, fab video. Fast becoming one of the best channels on youtube. I spent a few years working in a joinery shop in nyc before returning to Ireland and I did a good bit of this kind of work. You have everything fairly covered there I'd say and it would want to be a picky customer to complain. "Discrete but discernable" is the rule of thumb stateside for repairs in that each one adds a little to the story and authenticity of the piece. Another was to add a 50% extra to the amount of hours you think are needed on a piece (haha!!). Maith thú agus lean ort!!
An alternate way of veneer patching is to use a very plain grained patch, match it to the background color of the wood, and paint grain on it after the first coat of shellac. You can use stain, furniture retouching markers or paints. Or all of them.
That is an inspirational video Keith. I have done a little 'restoration' but am about to embark on a desk bought from the British Heart Foundation. This will be really helpful. Will be searching the Internet for those wonderful scrapers. Keep up the great videos.
Dude, I don't know what it is about you, but you are my favourite woodworking youtuber...Poor Steve Ramsey is relegated to second :) I watch every video you make, even though 90% of it is out of my league, or stuff I'd never do. Your presentation style is awesome. Thanks for the content.
Here is an old Flooring trick you can try... I used to use this technique to perfectly match a patch in Linoleum flooring Cut the replacement piece bigger then the patch. Lay the replacement over the patch and cut a line through both pieces at once. Perfect match invisible seam!!!!!!
Maybe try using a squiggly line for your seem. I’ve had good success with this technique. It tricks your eye, which it seems is drone to straight line’s.
I love it when you these furniture repairs & renovations, I live seeing old damaged wood being brought back to life. You don't need to worry about clamping glued veneers too much, usually the strength of stretching masking tape or blue painters tape over the new patch to the surrounding wood is sufficient. Maybe add some dye to your glue to help blend otherwise the white glue will grab the wood stain. Or give new piece a coat of shellac including glue & surrounding area to blend in Saw on Repair Shop another method of dealing with loose & cracked veneers is to press over with hot iron, it melts the glue under the veneer & grabs & holes the loose veneer. Meet idea with the syringe, but you can't glue to glue, specially mixing glue types. Old stuff usually had hide or pearl melted glue
With you on the stripper, but a good one I have found is Polycell Maximum Strength Paint Stripper which I can buy as a 'civilian' from my local hardware shop in Bedfordshire. Absolutely stinks, so would recommend outdoor use only. (not a winter product!). Amazing veneers on those doors!
great video thanks for posting, with regards to stripping old varnish off have you tried washing powder and boiling water in a bucket. Then use fine wire wool 000 to rub off the old varnish. Works a treat, once dried then with a mop brush add shellac brushing with the grain. Let it dry then use natural or clear wax put a little oil in you wax tin then apply all over then buff. It restores the original finish without stripping back completely. Its the old way of stripping that french polishers would use. I learnt this from the you tube channel the English polisher. Works really well with old antique pieces. I am working on replacing some veneer on a chest of draws at the moment and found your video very helpful Thankyou
The trick with repairing veneer is to use an irregular shape. If you're using a straight line it will be much more visible. Next time try to patch the veneer with an irregular circle (hit a steel pipe with a hammer and sharpen the edge for example). Also, staining is a great way to blend in your repair, however it is better to do it beforehand with a test piece. That way you will be certain your piece will blend in, it's a waste of time if you have to replace when you're not satisfied. To hide the lines, use some sawdust with hide glue to fill it in. Hide glue by the way is the best option for restoring a piece. It's reversible so you can undo your work. Keep it up, you'll get better every day ;-).
I recently became aware of what is known as white base pre stain, which accepts the next stain color well without absorbing so much as to become deep dark in color like the edges of your veneer patch. Normally I understand that white base pre stain is excellent when you are using stain colors like pink or green. my pink and green stains were coming up deep dark and brown with out it.
I'd use a glue remover for removing the packaging tape from furniture - one that's based on citric acid. The one I've tried was so good I could remove caked-on packaging tape from an old dresser (probably close to a century old) without resorting to anything else. It did not leave any trace behind and it did not damage the lacquer (though I don't know whether the dresser had been re-finished at some point with a newer varnish). This type of glue remover does not leave any glue residue behind at all as it breaks down the glue, which you can then wipe off. This means that often you don't need to resort to heat for removing the tape. I'd be cautious with the heat gun as it can scorch the lacquer and the veneer or lift the veneer. I'd try with a hair-dryer first since usually hair dryers come with a couple of heat settings, so you can use the low setting to begin with. The only downside with the glue remover is that it's more expensive so you may want to save it for special cases, if you do this sort of thing a lot. Then again, it's very easy to work with so it's down to what's more important to you. Word of caution: I don't know what kind of wood finishes it might react with, so always test first on an small area of the furniture piece that doesn't matter if it gets damaged.
Quite right. All you need is business credentials to buy, a letterhead or a business card will suffice, I use the thinner one and it is superb for doing most finishes. It is readily available for business use.
I wouldn't hesitate to use a good linear or rotary sander on veneer. Yes veneer can be thin but using a proper grit will get you through the job much quicker
Hey Keith. Thank you very much for all the great tips as I have a restoration project very similar to yours but not nearly as large or as complex. Also, I loved hearing Exile on Mainstreet playing in the background as I have been a die hard Stones fan all my life and that album (record) is in my top 3 favorites.
I'm here because I just learned that one DOES NOT use an electric orbital sander on veneer .... THE HARD WAY. Just as I was about to call it good I touched a spot ON THE FRONT (of course) of a beautiful old Cedar Chest that I'm refinishing for my wife ....ooops. Apparentyl there was a "blister" under the finish where the glue either let go or was never there. I came to YOU TUBE looking for help AND HERE WE ARE !!! You have been a wonderful help !! Thank you !
One method I've used to make veneer patches is to put the new veneer over the broken area and cut through both at the same time. The patch will always fit perfectly. You can temporarily Mark the cut line with tape to ensure you get all the damaged veneer removed.
I like the attention to details and the honesty at the end
You can rebrass steel by running a brass wire wheel over it at high speeds, the heat sticks a thin layer of brass to the steel and makes it look shiny gold again
You can also do it by heating the steel and running the brass over it at regular-ish speed
I appreciate that you spoke about the work, the technique and your process for refurbishing the piece of furniture. Thank you
I sure hope your customer was pleased with this restoration. I certainly would have been.
angling the cuts on the veneer about 15-20 degrees might help with fitting them without gaps (marquetry trick)
Cool tip!
We all learn with each thing we do. I like your honesty. Thank you.
My grandmother was a cabinet maker at a young age in his homeland of Jamaica. He joined the Military based in England. He loved carpentry and after WW2, he moved to Canada and worked as a carpenter for over 40 years at Massey Ferguson. You used all the tools he used. Love the work you do, keep up the great work!!!
Thank you
Congratulations.
When you said this was only your second time doing veneer patching and you had learned a lot from this - that is the big point. Paying attention to how and what you do - then seeing the results, and then taking the time to consider how you could have done it better. That is missing from a lot of people working in these trades.
Being that it is from the 1930s - I am guessing it is shellac.
In the 1930s the manufacturers really transitioned over from shellac to nitrocellulose lacquer. After WW I there was a lot unused cellulose nitrate left over (used for making gun powder). With the end of the war - a method was developed to make this into a fast drying finish.
The reason I think it is shellac is that the finish looks in relatively good condition. Shellac (while considered weak by modern standard) really does hold up well to age. Lacquer on the other hand tends to "alligator skin" with age, and other modern finishes all have their problems.
I don't do a huge amount of veneer work, but enough lol.
Here are some ideas you can maybe use... or possibly others.
- The cracking looks more like the veneer is split - pretty common with burls.
- Could use sandpaper to clean the old glue out from under the loose veneer. I will take a piece and fold it so you have abrasive on both sides. Slide it under and push on the veneer while pulling it out. Repeat a few times to get the old glue off.
- When making patches, it will look better to do "boat bow" () shapes, triangles (if the bottom flat is an edge), or even diamonds. Flat edges should only be placed only going in the same direction of the grain. The cross grain edges should be angled or bowed so the seam isn't straight. The larger the angle the harder it is to see. ** Not at 9:32 - there is veneer patches on the upper right and left. This is not uncommon and the manufacture probably had holes in those areas... and if you look over the very top on the same frame you can see a few others.
- When finding a veneer patch - look not only at grain, but pores as well. You can also check wood color by wetting it with paint thinner - though if you are applying shellac or lacquer will probably make it look slightly darker than those finishes will.
- You might get a tighter patch by placing the new piece on top of the damage and cutting both at once - Though I have also made tracings like you did... and then used sandpaper to fine tune the veneer patch edges until they fit perfect (this means you might want to cut the patch a hair bigger to give room for tuning).
- To help prevent the dark seam with patches - You might try holding off on coloring the patch. Get a few coats of finish on and sand to have it flat (with no dip at the seam). Then add color to the patch area (this is technically called toning). It can help reduce that darkening of the seam (because you have sealed the edge grains with the finish and so the stain doesn't seep into it).
You can also use acrylic paints. Seal the wood with your finish (just a coat or two). Make up a color that is the same as the wood background (light) color. Use a fine art brush to dot along the seam. This will break it up and help hide it. Since acrylics dry slightly darker than they are in liquid state - you will need to go slightly lighter... and do not apply a finish for at least a few hours as the acrylics need to completely dry so you don't cause blushing or bad adhesion.
A note on patching and coloring...
It is inevitable that wood darkens as it ages. This means the stains we apply (and the acrylics) may (may) eventually become more noticeable as the wood around it changes. There really is nothing we can do about this. Use a metalized stain (which resists fading), but really it is just a fact of life and something we have to accept (unless someone knows something).
Now I want to go watch a more up to date video of yours.
Keep at it.
Terrific tips, thank you for your time.
Hi Keith, I applaud your honesty at the end. Life itself is a big learning curve.
We just moved into a house built in 1960, and all the inside doors are wood. Some have veneer areas missing at the top and bottom. I'm hoping to save them by making veneer patches, and I love your method of using the masking tape to make a template for the cut away area! Brilliant!!
Not to bad for being your second time, I could still see the vaneer moving on the edge when you were taping your finger and I seen a little piece you didn’t put any glue in. You will learn more as time goes and reading the comments really help you to problem solve. There are some really smart and more experienced people out there!
True craftsman. Nice work. Thanks for the education.
Great. I really learned a lot. I'm repairing veneer for the first time with no help, running into the same issues you talked about, so this was helpful to me, and I don't feel so alone!
The tape as a template trick-Brilliant!
this was a FANTASTIC video, and I learned several tricks I had never seen or thought of. Thank you!
What an absolutely beautiful piece--it's so good to see you bring it back to useful life again and to its former beauty. Very skillful repair of that veneer, too. Lovely.
AMAZING! incredible technique and application!
I usually use hard wax prior to sealing. Hides the gaps and stops absorption into end braid plus you can lightly sand back smooth. If it helps.
Excellent work- I appreciate the dialogue relating to the quote and original time expectation and what it took to get it done. I've done some veneered front doors, stripped, detail sanded and re-varnished. Each took more time than expected and I'm starting to get a sense of what it really takes to quote out and hit the mark without scaring the customer away and delivering the best work I can for that price-point. I realize with the techniques you've demonstrated that anything is possible, outcome is always better than the start (if you know what you're doing) and it's fun and challenging to take on some of these projects to make a living- also, your energy is great. Thank you Sir!
Thank you!
Veneer isn't easy to repair. The project piece looks great! I learned a new way of making a template for damaged veneer using the masking tape method you showed. Thank you!
Already a stunning piece. Do your thing! Veneer fixes were awesome! Beautiful restoration!
I was impressed that you did such a good job after very little previous experience. Halfway through the video I assumed you were a furniture restorer!
So beautiful! I wish I had your tools and gadgets. I’ve got a beautiful old piece that needs love.
If you’ve seen Dashner’s videos he’ll use a tiny tiny paintbrush and carefully blend in the veneers repair cracks with a bit of pigment. That seems to work well. I haven’t tried it myself as I’m too chicken to try veneer repairs yet.
Just go find some old junk furniture that nobody cares about. You can probably get some for free, or at least cheap at a thrift shop. Practice your repairs and sell them for profit!
Rag'n' Bone Brown nice job . You can use junk mail adverts on glossy stock as a glue applicator for narrow gaps. Also use for loose veneer not fully detached . Make incision with exacto knife , put some glue on strip of glossy card stock junk mail ,..insert into crevice back and forth to coat with glue , tape or clamp down . Good as new repaired veneer. Thanks for keeping repairable furniture out of the landfills.
Well you gave me the information I needed. I found a 1930 roos hope chest at a shop. I picked it up for my mom. The top has a nice chunk of veneers missing. And some loos on the side. Good video man you do good work.
really good job Keith to a nice bit of furniture. as already been said Thomas Johnson is the king. 👍
I use some color matched wood fill around patch joins and it does help with concealing the joins.
Thank you for the video!!!! I will be able to repair a few cabinet doors and suprise my hubby. I was just going to use wood filler and paint them. He was very unhappy with my plan of repair. So thanks again!!!!
Great video thanks. I have a French Louis something chest of drawers with lots of missing veneer that I paid 50 euros for. I found in my barn two old french beds the owners had left behind and most of the veneer had fallen off so I kept it. I also bought a huge box of veneer wood from a man in a car boot sale, he told me that he used to work in a woodworking factory and his ex boss was using the veneer to light his stove ! I paid 20 euros for more than I could carry. I now feel up to restoring this piece, thanks.
It looks great! You'll never get a perfectly seamless match. The only way to do that, is to remove and replace the entire veneer.
Another classic brought back to life. So beautiful. Top job done.
The mirrored burl pattern on the doors came out really nice. Mirrored Burls are Rorschach prints.
There are so many clever tips in your videos. I have a favorite piece I’ve been wanting to save. I think I can manage it now. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
That cabinet is stunning
Btw, a very good method to glue veneer, is to use an iron.
Just glue both parts, let it dry, put them together and heat it with an iron (no steam).
Works much quicker, nicer and less awkward as clamping. You also have a lot more control.
Also good solution on parts were clamping is not possible.
I like to use a roller for the glue in this case.
Good tip! What glue do you use for this?
@@Saladzingers just regular wood glue.
I suppose hide glue would be best
@@peteypops I don't know. I always used regular wood PVA glue. PVA has the property to soften when being heated. It's actually a quite common veneer technique.
It came out stunning! I would have put the colored wax before the stain.That would have sealed the edge of the patch.Allowing the edge to almost become invisible after staining.Still your TLC shows.I love it.
I can only imagine how tricky it is replacing veneer but all in all, you did a fair job of it Keith. Great video chap
I didn't think you were going to get the cabinet though your workshop door 🤣. Great work
Great video, I learned a lot! I really appreciate that you were transparent and shared any lessons learned. Thank you!
2:43 For a perfect match of the insert, you can place the new veneer on top of the old one, and use a sharp knife and cut through both at the same time.
This way, you get almost a perfect cut between the old and new veneer.
It's a trick that's being used with wallpaper (corners etc...)
I did consider that but veneer doesn't cut too well with a knife (even a sharp one) as the grain tends to lead the blade astray
that is a great tip thank you!
@@RagnBoneBrown , even with a ruler and a x-acto knife ?
@@RagnBoneBrown sharper razor blade and more practice; veneer is a challenge
@@RagnBoneBrownSharp razor knife and very many very light passes will keep the grain from interfering with your cut. Also, if you can cut along the grain of your insert piece it will help to hide the line of the patch.
As for the end grain of the patch soaking up more stain and getting darker and more visible, try staining the patch before cutting it out and then your wax should also be more effective hiding the joint.
Thumb scrapers and wire wool down to 000 is the main tools for veneer..you’ve done an really good job mate, well done
This Video is going to help me a lot !
I am going to attempt to repair some veneer...first time. With your help! 👍😊
I don’t wanna make professionals mad or anything, but watching these videos make it look pretty easy to do. I mean the hardest part looked like finding the right kind of vaneer. Patching, sanding, painting. All looks easy to me. But I can understand just because it looks it doesn’t mean it is. Everyone is telling me since I don’t know anything and never repaired anything that my old vanity was too big of a fix for me, but i would love to try and do it myself. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just usable again. It was passed down to me by my grandfather I never met, he left it with my uncle to specifically give to me when I grew up some, when he found out I was a girl 😊 my mom didn’t like the guy. But I’m sentimental and I also love antiques so I refuse to throw it away
I double cut my patches with a more irregular cut as you would wallpaper rather than make a template, lil more work, but makes for an almost invisible patch. Do at times use a handmade fine sawdust filler or wood grain paste to fill the hairline crack if I get one. Also helps to just faux in matching grain.
Thank you so much for this video, watching it has given me the confidence to have a go myself and I have repaired a Victorian Slope writing box. Not perfect but I am delighted with the finished effect.
Nice. job! This is just the video I've been looking for. I have a waterfall style, cedar lined, blanket chest that I just love but it has a piece of veneer missing from the top (a bit on the large side). I've never known how to fix it, or at least improve the look, so this helps a lot.
I see lot of influence of Thomas Johnson :) Great!
Congratulations Keith, fab video. Fast becoming one of the best channels on youtube. I spent a few years working in a joinery shop in nyc before returning to Ireland and I did a good bit of this kind of work. You have everything fairly covered there I'd say and it would want to be a picky customer to complain. "Discrete but discernable" is the rule of thumb stateside for repairs in that each one adds a little to the story and authenticity of the piece. Another was to add a 50% extra to the amount of hours you think are needed on a piece (haha!!). Maith thú agus lean ort!!
I loved the syringe trick .. brilliant
Pretty nice job ^^ well done. I hope the client is happy.
Keith, awesome job, thanks for this video, greatly helpful!
Good video Keith love all that veneer matching repair stuff , like everything else comes with practise you did a good though !!!.
I love watching you work. I was so soothing
Nicely done! Reminded me of a Thomas Johnson furniture restoration
Always learning new ideas from you @keith. Thank you.
Thanks
An alternate way of veneer patching is to use a very plain grained patch, match it to the background color of the wood, and paint grain on it after the first coat of shellac. You can use stain, furniture retouching markers or paints. Or all of them.
That is an inspirational video Keith. I have done a little 'restoration' but am about to embark on a desk bought from the British Heart Foundation. This will be really helpful. Will be searching the Internet for those wonderful scrapers. Keep up the great videos.
Great video. Thanks, your tips will help when I restore a sewing desk.
Another great video mate. Love the tape tip to copy the shape 👍
Dude, I don't know what it is about you, but you are my favourite woodworking youtuber...Poor Steve Ramsey is relegated to second :) I watch every video you make, even though 90% of it is out of my league, or stuff I'd never do. Your presentation style is awesome. Thanks for the content.
Wow, thank you
Here is an old Flooring trick you can try... I used to use this technique to perfectly match a patch in Linoleum flooring Cut the replacement piece bigger then the patch. Lay the replacement over the patch and cut a line through both pieces at once. Perfect match invisible seam!!!!!!
This is so satisfying to watch
Learned from last time and took the doors off lol. Amazing work, as always!!
Wow! Thats a unique piece too..Love it!!
Maybe try using a squiggly line for your seem. I’ve had good success with this technique. It tricks your eye, which it seems is drone to straight line’s.
I love it when you these furniture repairs & renovations, I live seeing old damaged wood being brought back to life.
You don't need to worry about clamping glued veneers too much, usually the strength of stretching masking tape or blue painters tape over the new patch to the surrounding wood is sufficient. Maybe add some dye to your glue to help blend otherwise the white glue will grab the wood stain. Or give new piece a coat of shellac including glue & surrounding area to blend in
Saw on Repair Shop another method of dealing with loose & cracked veneers is to press over with hot iron, it melts the glue under the veneer & grabs & holes the loose veneer. Meet idea with the syringe, but you can't glue to glue, specially mixing glue types. Old stuff usually had hide or pearl melted glue
Thanks great tips
With you on the stripper, but a good one I have found is Polycell Maximum Strength Paint Stripper which I can buy as a 'civilian' from my local hardware shop in Bedfordshire. Absolutely stinks, so would recommend outdoor use only. (not a winter product!). Amazing veneers on those doors!
Cabinet 4 looking good, as per usual! That wood grain on the front is SO wild! I bet it was annoying to work with but holy heck is it pretty!
the perfect video for beginners to learn how to repair veneer. Now my old table restoration project does not look so scary. Thank you very much
An excellent restoration !
I think that the veneer is from a kind of Birch. Very nice job! 👍
great video thanks for posting, with regards to stripping old varnish off have you tried washing powder and boiling water in a bucket. Then use fine wire wool 000 to rub off the old varnish. Works a treat, once dried then with a mop brush add shellac brushing with the grain. Let it dry then use natural or clear wax put a little oil in you wax tin then apply all over then buff. It restores the original finish without stripping back completely.
Its the old way of stripping that french polishers would use. I learnt this from the you tube channel the English polisher. Works really well with old antique pieces.
I am working on replacing some veneer on a chest of draws at the moment and found your video very helpful Thankyou
Cheers I'll check out the videos👍
Hmmm... He uses it for cleaning, not stripping....
@@RagnBoneBrown sorry yes he does.
Thanks for all the details.
The trick with repairing veneer is to use an irregular shape. If you're using a straight line it will be much more visible. Next time try to patch the veneer with an irregular circle (hit a steel pipe with a hammer and sharpen the edge for example). Also, staining is a great way to blend in your repair, however it is better to do it beforehand with a test piece. That way you will be certain your piece will blend in, it's a waste of time if you have to replace when you're not satisfied. To hide the lines, use some sawdust with hide glue to fill it in. Hide glue by the way is the best option for restoring a piece. It's reversible so you can undo your work. Keep it up, you'll get better every day ;-).
Can I moisturize warped veneer to get it flat again?
You did a great job and really helped me!
I recently became aware of what is known as white base pre stain, which accepts the next stain color well without absorbing so much as to become deep dark in color like the edges of your veneer patch. Normally I understand that white base pre stain is excellent when you are using stain colors like pink or green. my pink and green stains were coming up deep dark and brown with out it.
Excellent honest work
High quality work, good sir 👍🏼
What an amazing tutorial.
I'd use a glue remover for removing the packaging tape from furniture - one that's based on citric acid. The one I've tried was so good I could remove caked-on packaging tape from an old dresser (probably close to a century old) without resorting to anything else. It did not leave any trace behind and it did not damage the lacquer (though I don't know whether the dresser had been re-finished at some point with a newer varnish). This type of glue remover does not leave any glue residue behind at all as it breaks down the glue, which you can then wipe off. This means that often you don't need to resort to heat for removing the tape. I'd be cautious with the heat gun as it can scorch the lacquer and the veneer or lift the veneer. I'd try with a hair-dryer first since usually hair dryers come with a couple of heat settings, so you can use the low setting to begin with. The only downside with the glue remover is that it's more expensive so you may want to save it for special cases, if you do this sort of thing a lot. Then again, it's very easy to work with so it's down to what's more important to you. Word of caution: I don't know what kind of wood finishes it might react with, so always test first on an small area of the furniture piece that doesn't matter if it gets damaged.
Je n’ai pas vu une pieuvre, mais une chouette ! C’est plus sympa !
Morrells sell a good stripper that still works well called 'Paramose' don't get the water based one though as that does seem to be weaker.
Quite right. All you need is business credentials to buy, a letterhead or a business card will suffice, I use the thinner one and it is superb for doing most finishes. It is readily available for business use.
Absolutely stunning, thanks so much for sharing!
Thanks so much for this detailed video.
This thing is amazing!
Fantastic job!! The care & attention to detail put in to the restoration is amazing. Enjoyed Dylan while you were working too! 😊 👍
Finally! Just what I needed. Thanks!
your know how speaks to a long term sucessful career
Good effort. Interesting video.
When doing a large area cut out little larger piece and use the remains of the cut out to fill in the little missing pieces of veneer.
You are so good. Thanks so much for sharing that. Have a blessed week darling 🙏🏽♥️✅keep doing what you do
I wouldn't hesitate to use a good linear or rotary sander on veneer. Yes veneer can be thin but using a proper grit will get you through the job much quicker
This video, was fantastic!!!
Beautiful, Thank you for the video, I learned a lot...
Hey Keith. Thank you very much for all the great tips as I have a restoration project very similar to yours but not nearly as large or as complex. Also, I loved hearing Exile on Mainstreet playing in the background as I have been a die hard Stones fan all my life and that album (record) is in my top 3 favorites.
masking tape rubbing is brilliant