If you’re concerned about distance from the lands, you must measure the case base to the ogive of the bullet. This measurement will be quite different with different bullets. Overall length is important only for fitting in a magazine. Of course, you need to know where the lands are too.
I'm guessing there are many prospective folks out there trying to figure out if reloading is for them by checking out this video. As a longtime reloader-47+ years-I started when the appeal was to load for "less" cost than factory, then it was to load specific rounds that performed well in YOUR firearms or odd-ball, surplus rounds, now, with the cost of components sometimes exceeding factory ammo, I posit that reloading is an irreplaceable "skill" to have, given what's happened in the last few years!!! Not to discount the fact that Big Gov doesn't want you to be able to "make your own ammo", I say it's even MORE important! Every Patriot should stock tons of ammo AND reloading components!!! When that "supply chain" gets cut off, and there's not a box of 9mil or 556 to be had at ANY price, you'll have peace-of-mind, KNOWING you've got the ability and resources to "roll your own"!!! Think of it as "Life Insurance"! TRUMP/VANCE 2024!!!
If you're expecting accuracy, use only a single headstamp. Reduce as many variables as possible. Mixed brass has as many variables as the amount of different headstamps. Mixed headstamp handloading is for plinking/training/flat range/short range competitions where volume and cycling reliability is more important than subMOA accuracy.
I could load 3 different head stamps on my 33lm and all 3 would have the same moa at 1000 yards. I have some .22-250 testing that shows all of the muzzle velocities are within standard deviation and accuracy is sub moa from one casing to another. This statement is true on asian brass but I don’t reload Asian brass
With the Lee hand primer I can feel how much pressure is required to insert the primer. I can easily tell when the primer pocket is becoming to loose on cases that have been reloaded many times. I don't have the same feel with the tool on my press. I've uses the auto prime for years with never one problem.
I see in the background of your electric powder scale a Lee powder measure. I have used one of those for many years. I have two other brands of powder measures but neither throws as accurately as my Lee does. Especially with the finer powder like you use in a .223. I also have electronic scales but prefer the use of a beam scale of which I also have three different brands. I prefer the Pacific Precision there.
I keep looking at these electronic powder dispensers..Specifically the Frankfort Arsenal, but they really seem very slow and don't seems any more accurate than my 30 lee powder measure.
I like to use a powder that has a max of 22.5 or so, so a faster burning powder than 748, so 22.5grs with 1lb of powder will give me 311 rounds, I use mostly AA powders, X-Terminator, and other powders in that burn range.
X-terminator has a max load of 26 and aa2230 is max of 25 in the lyman manual and in all the testing ive done with the AA powder it is not the answer for accuracy if you are just plinking sure
I thought you said max was 22.5 which one is it? 2230 powder is a double base spherical powder and 748 is a traditional ball powder and 2230 has a faster standard burn rate than 748 so how exactly are they the same?irregardless nosler calls 26 grains as max on a 55gr
@@Mbmoutdoors Go back and reread that, I said I like to use a powder that gives me 22.5grs or so for a 55 grain bullet, sometimes less, depending on the powder, I've got most of the AA powders for the 223. X-Term and 2230 are the same powder is what I said.
Ooo you’re right when you said a powder that has a max of 22.5 you meant it doesn’t matter what the load data max is you use 22.5 well obviously i was confused I thought max meant max not preferred load
I full length size on the majority and prefer to factory crimp all my rounds just so I don’t have to reset seating dies for rounds i don’t crimp or different bullet lengths
That is false lots of bullets without cannelures get crimped its a matter accuracy and consistency. You can not guarantee they will not move under all field conditions I can because I crimp them the man who had taught me crimped everything and the 10’s of thousands of rounds i have loaded and fired have all been crimped and i know they are more accurate than 99% of any rounds you can buy in a store and that other 1% is crimped. If you are the superior source make your own videos otherwise stop spreading false loading data on mine.
Are you backpacking a mile to make a shot? Are you storing sub moa rounds in a army can in your truck all season? The answer is no there is a difference between real world accuracy and bench shooting. so again for accuracy and consistency i crimp every round. My 338 rounds are about 1/2 moa at 1000 and they are all crimped if you are shooting a single shot off a bench sure you probably won’t need a crimp on any round but everyone else will have more benefits than issues with a factory crimp on all rounds
It is range brass getting shot out of an ar for coyotes so 1 why would I pay for brass when its free and 2 why would I not crimp a round intended to be shot in an environment that demands being crimped
Both reloading manuals I have say 2.260 OAL for 55gr and I have shot over a thousand rounds through 6 different AR platforms and bolt guns no clearance issue or cycling issues
And exactly what info was incorrect? If im incorrect please correct me but if you do it differently than me and get the same results that doesn’t mean im incorrect or you are correct. There is more than one way to skin a cat.
Love that powder dispenser and trickler.
Great video! If you’re interested in accuracy, consider adding annealing to your reload process.
If you’re concerned about distance from the lands, you must measure the case base to the ogive of the bullet. This measurement will be quite different with different bullets. Overall length is important only for fitting in a magazine. Of course, you need to know where the lands are too.
I'm guessing there are many prospective folks out there trying to figure out if reloading is for them by checking out this video. As a longtime reloader-47+ years-I started when the appeal was to load for "less" cost than factory, then it was to load specific rounds that performed well in YOUR firearms or odd-ball, surplus rounds, now, with the cost of components sometimes exceeding factory ammo, I posit that reloading is an irreplaceable "skill" to have, given what's happened in the last few years!!! Not to discount the fact that Big Gov doesn't want you to be able to "make your own ammo", I say it's even MORE important! Every Patriot should stock tons of ammo AND reloading components!!!
When that "supply chain" gets cut off, and there's not a box of 9mil or 556 to be had at ANY price, you'll have peace-of-mind, KNOWING you've got the ability and resources to "roll your own"!!! Think of it as "Life Insurance"! TRUMP/VANCE 2024!!!
Thank you.
If you're expecting accuracy, use only a single headstamp. Reduce as many variables as possible.
Mixed brass has as many variables as the amount of different headstamps.
Mixed headstamp handloading is for plinking/training/flat range/short range competitions where volume and cycling reliability is more important than subMOA accuracy.
or what you could do is reload all your mixed brass then separate the finished reloads by head stamp it would be the same thing lol
I could load 3 different head stamps on my 33lm and all 3 would have the same moa at 1000 yards. I have some .22-250 testing that shows all of the muzzle velocities are within standard deviation and accuracy is sub moa from one casing to another. This statement is true on asian brass but I don’t reload Asian brass
With the Lee hand primer I can feel how much pressure is required to insert the primer. I can easily tell when the primer pocket is becoming to loose on cases that have been reloaded many times. I don't have the same feel with the tool on my press. I've uses the auto prime for years with never one problem.
The lee hand primer hands down is my pick for reloading
I see in the background of your electric powder scale a Lee powder measure. I have used one of those for many years. I have two other brands of powder measures but neither throws as accurately as my Lee does. Especially with the finer powder like you use in a .223. I also have electronic scales but prefer the use of a beam scale of which I also have three different brands. I prefer the Pacific Precision there.
I keep looking at these electronic powder dispensers..Specifically the Frankfort Arsenal, but they really seem very slow and don't seems any more accurate than my 30 lee powder measure.
They are slower but on pellet type powders you don’t run into the issue of crushing the pellets when the powder cavity closes
@@Mbmoutdoors The Lee Powder Measure doesn't crush powder like my two other powder measures do. It is built not to.
223 is a great load
Nice job!😉
Good stuff .
I thought I was the only one who wrote on the turrets with a paint marker....
I had to start doing it so I didn’t have to strain my eyes to see which turret i need lol
@@Mbmoutdoors Exactly,I can not see the fine stamped numbers hardly.Just like the shell holders,I engraved the caliber on them.
Nice !!! Enjoy those loads
I like to use a powder that has a max of 22.5 or so, so a faster burning powder than 748, so 22.5grs with 1lb of powder will give me 311 rounds, I use mostly AA powders, X-Terminator, and other powders in that burn range.
X-terminator has a max load of 26 and aa2230 is max of 25 in the lyman manual and in all the testing ive done with the AA powder it is not the answer for accuracy if you are just plinking sure
@@Mbmoutdoors You know they're the same powder, right?
23.5grs is max with those powders loading a 55VMAX.
I thought you said max was 22.5 which one is it? 2230 powder is a double base spherical powder and 748 is a traditional ball powder and 2230 has a faster standard burn rate than 748 so how exactly are they the same?irregardless nosler calls 26 grains as max on a 55gr
@@Mbmoutdoors Go back and reread that, I said I like to use a powder that gives me 22.5grs or so for a 55 grain bullet, sometimes less, depending on the powder, I've got most of the AA powders for the 223. X-Term and 2230 are the same powder is what I said.
Ooo you’re right when you said a powder that has a max of 22.5 you meant it doesn’t matter what the load data max is you use 22.5 well obviously i was confused I thought max meant max not preferred load
Nothing on neck sizing? And why or how not to collapse the brass at the base of the neck when bullet seating.
I full length size on the majority and prefer to factory crimp all my rounds just so I don’t have to reset seating dies for rounds i don’t crimp or different bullet lengths
FL sizing always, never neck size only if you like everything thing to go bang.
Need to clean up those rusty dies. That first case you deprimed/sized had rusty goop on the neck when you pulled it out.
That was actually the wash solvent that wasn’t dry and has no effect on sizing
Why do you crimp 223s? They're not going to move if you don't crimp. If your bullets don't have a cannelure you dont ever crimp those.
That is false lots of bullets without cannelures get crimped its a matter accuracy and consistency. You can not guarantee they will not move under all field conditions I can because I crimp them the man who had taught me crimped everything and the 10’s of thousands of rounds i have loaded and fired have all been crimped and i know they are more accurate than 99% of any rounds you can buy in a store and that other 1% is crimped. If you are the superior source make your own videos otherwise stop spreading false loading data on mine.
@@Mbmoutdoors Ask any PRECISION shooter if he or she crimps for a match. No I don't.
Are you backpacking a mile to make a shot? Are you storing sub moa rounds in a army can in your truck all season? The answer is no there is a difference between real world accuracy and bench shooting. so again for accuracy and consistency i crimp every round. My 338 rounds are about 1/2 moa at 1000 and they are all crimped if you are shooting a single shot off a bench sure you probably won’t need a crimp on any round but everyone else will have more benefits than issues with a factory crimp on all rounds
He has to crimp because he’s using trash brass.
It is range brass getting shot out of an ar for coyotes so 1 why would I pay for brass when its free and 2 why would I not crimp a round intended to be shot in an environment that demands being crimped
OAL for most 55grainers is 2.200-2.250"
Both reloading manuals I have say 2.260 OAL for 55gr and I have shot over a thousand rounds through 6 different AR platforms and bolt guns no clearance issue or cycling issues
Wow! Guys offer input to your incorrect info and you get snappy? You have much to learn.
And exactly what info was incorrect? If im incorrect please correct me but if you do it differently than me and get the same results that doesn’t mean im incorrect or you are correct. There is more than one way to skin a cat.
No info on length etc. didn’t mention that you were de-burring both inside and out. Not informative.
Length is in the reloading manual and you always de-burr inside and outside of mouth when you trim.
Not good comment.