You can click all the supports you want to delete and then click the delete button once they are all red. You can also unclick them this way too- its pretty nice! Thanks for the video, I learned a HUGE tip from it to avoid suction cups. I have been so lucky so far after about 50 prints and not avoiding the suction cup trap. Thankfully no FEP breakages so far.
Such a helpful video - as a novice 3dprint-artist Im always on the hunt for detailed & well done how-to videos, and this one is right up there. Thank you so much! Will stay tuned.
I cant believe I just found you! I've been looking for you all my life! haha, I cant emphasize how awesome your content is, and how you explain it in such an EASY WAY! for everyone to understand!
So you helped me a ton get going with a 20w diode laser - and now you're helping me get going with my resin printer! Your videos are top notch - i really appreciate your work!
Hollowing actually seems like the best way to even out those pulling and sucking forces that often lead to failed prints, less surface area=less suction on the FEP. I'm only three days into this keep in mind but I've learned ALOT in the last 3 days. I started with a defective build plate that required honing. Also keep in mind im a machinist with the knowledge to lap that surface at home.
Great video! I have a FDM printer, but i didn`t like too much, now i`m buying a resin 3d printer and have been seeing a lot of videos about resin prints. This was a great tutorial!
Wow they really put thought into that slicer giving you the option to punch holes in the model and then turning them into plugs so you can replace them later
I know the video is 2 years old now, but this was a timely find as I'm thinking about 3d printing some tanks for Warhammer, and I was wondering about how I should do the drain/pressure holes and stuff. Thanks for uploading!
Thank you so much, I make some prints hollow but they explodes for the inner pressure of the resin. I didn't notice that there's a tool "dig hole". This is a game changer.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I got my first solid print this week and wasted a ton of resin. I feel dumb that there is a button I have never looked at and had to have it pointed out, but still feel happy as I will be able to continue prints now, knowing what to do.
New subscriber here. I'm glad my brother directed me to your channel. Great info and yes, saving money on the expensive resin is important specially when a print fails. Thanks for the videos!
If you want weight to your models, print it out with an open area, and print the open piece seporatly. Fill it with sand and then glue the piece back together.
The rub 'n buff treatment looks great. You seem to be able to handle the print after using it, but I just wanted to confirm with you that it does fully dry. The package looks like makeup or something so I just wanted to confirm with you that it does dry fully without the need to seal it with a clear coat or anything.
I have a question, is it worth troubleshooting the supports inside the hollowed-out model? It seems like there are a lot in there, but maybe even if it COULD print, it'd be a less stable model with fewer. Just wondering your opinion.
These are a great set of video's. I'm new to resin printing. Have a prusa sl1, so I cant use chitubox but I'm still learning alot from your video's. I have to use meshmixer or 3d builder to hollow and drain hole. But still learning about orientation and support placement, having model build upon itself, etc. +1 sub
This may be out of scope for this video but will ask anyway... you validate the supports along the bottom and back by flipping the model over looking for small circles (/islands). There may not be any for this particular model but how would you validate internal supports? For example, once positioned, on the top most area of the model what if there is a depressed area - like a sunken in open mouth, the back of the mouth would be an island. How would you visualize and validate it? Hope the question makes sense. Really enjoying your videos. Thanks for making the time to provide them.
Hi, have you ever thought of the issue of SLA printers like cupping and/or the large print area at once causing issues from complete failing or just what seems like Z wobble but actually the model just having issue because it's solid and large and having to fight more resin as it dunks back to the FEP?(not even mentioning how much area could stick as it peels upwards), I seem to be alone with this idea, and it does kinda suck that maybe sometimes large things need to be hollowed when I rather want them solid.
Nope. .You are not alone in your thinking. There's quite a bit of force being exerted on those models and gravity is definitely against you. The trick is getting the thing supported enough and angled correctly and even then that doesn't always work. Such is the nature of the beast of SLA printing. There is this constant tug of war between the FEP and the build plate and you just pray that the build plate wins.. but sometimes depending on how it's supported, distortion can occur because of various factors of supports, being too heavy etc. I still think we are in SLA's printing infancy and there are better things coming on the horizon. Hopefully, many of the issues you speak of will be remedied in the future.
@@3DPrintFarm Well... Formlabs seem to try to sell the remedy as a whole new product with their Form3, and their userbase were almost crying that the company seems to about to drop support for older model a-la Apple. I'm pretty happy with my Epax, but I couldn't find further information, that instead I found the same thought of SLA's nature, through some older Formlabs video explaining the machine's development and why some of their feature exist(I even found evidence of other limitation in laser SLA being the same to MSLA, such as undersides being blurry/mushy). I'll say I'd rather know the limits and study the most optimized way possible to utilize the technology.
Wow. Very nice and useful video! Could you do a video of how do you paint with a metallic paint the prints? I know that you did it in the end but you didnt show how to applicate the primer part and all this stuff. Thanks and best grettings from Spain
Hello, First of all very nice channel, have been watching your videos for the past week because Qidi just sent me a shadow 5.5 for review and I'm a noob on resin printing. As your suggestion I started using chitubox to learn about it before the printer arrives and I need some help. I tried to slice some wired pieces with no luck!!! There's a wired skull pencil holder on thingiverse that I printed a lot on fdm printers and I'd love to be one of my projects but....... Thanks a lot for all your content, I have 2 RUclips channels here in Brazil and I know the work and time we spend!!! Best regards from down here in Brazil
Hi brother , I noticed in your settings , it only shows the variables for Heavy support . Do you have medium and light listed anywhere? Thanks for all you do ! Cheers
Just found your channel, loving the videos. How do you personally handle resin filtering and recalibration between prints? I’ve printed my first 4 prints without having to do these steps between prints.
Hello! quick question, do you have a video where you walk through your support settings? I've been searching around your video lists and can't find anything.
How would you go about printing a Zeppelin that is too big for the build plate? The diameter fits, but the length doesn't. Being completely new to resin printing, I haven't figured this out yet? On my FDM printer, it would be just a matter of slicing the cigar shape into four parts and printing them like a tube standing up. Is it the same on a resin printer? I designed the model from scratch in 3DS Max, so it is already built hollow with double walls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Do you have a preference between Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon? I'm keen on the Anycubic low odor eco-resin and wondering which platform to commit to.
That’s a great question!! The Anycubic Photon, the Elegoo Mars as well as the Epax X1 and others all use the same system board! Resins are interchangeable between machines! You can use the low odor Anycubic in your Mars or your X1! Same goes with using Elegoo resin in your Photon! They are both great printers, although I find the Mars is easier to level.
Hi, very helpful video. somehow chitubox can't save the model as .pws file. and new photon workshop doesn't work with win 7 and win 10. Any other slicing software that you recommend that saves as .pws so i can use my photon printer. thanks!
Just unboxed my mono X I must say got the nerves going strong getting ready for my first print. Have you used water based resin? good ? stay away? or use this brand?
Wall Thickness is pretty self-explanatory, but that Hollow tool has 3 other settings - Precision, Inner, Outer - which you did not even mention. After hollowing I notice there are various "pockets" formed in the shell (completely closed separate sub-shells) - will those not pose problems with trapped uncured resin as those abscesses close off during printing? "If everything looks good support-wise", well, people new to resin printing (i.e., the people watching your videos) honestly aren't going to know what "looks good", that's why we're watching the video. I would like to see more explanation of the settings than just "this is what works for me, copy them" so I can learn why one setting may or may not print better than another. I've never seen sphere tips on supports prior to this video so it would have been nice to hear more about them. It sounds like what you're saying is having had issues with the model not sticking to the supports without the larger surface area that spheres provide? 9:47 "If you're printing in a heated ultrasonic"....wait, what? You poured resin into your ultrasonic cleaner?!? :) I do like the videos and am subscribed. Just hoping for a better details on the topics so newbs like me can ramp up quicker.
Thank you for your vids, you rock. Quick noob question. What temp do you set your ultrasonic cleaner at? Okay two questions. How long do you leave them in the US bath? I'm using Resin away in my US if that matters.
Great question! I use Resin Away in my heated ultrasonic as well. I heat it up between 40-50c and go for 5 mins. This to me is the sweet spot for me, but your mileage may vary. Using this time and temp, supports come off super easy! I then rinse off in water as per Resin Away instructions. I like Resin Away because it lasts so stinking long!
@@3DPrintFarm Great news, I was already starting to frown at the fact this "pricey" cleaner was looking dirty so soon. I mean my "pre bath" of course, before I add parts to the tupperware in my US cleaner. Only been using for a week so far. Thanks for the quick response.
is there a way to select a section of the print to NOT hollow? Like for example i print a lot of busts with bases, traditionally i hollow the bust and leave the base solid but sometimes they are pre-connected. I'd like to be able to keep some of the base solid because i tend to get some unevenness with how the base sits on things when it's hollow. little warping.
Hello, can I save an STL file with the hollowed and punch hole, and then open it back in Photon Workshop I need pw0 files to print them out. Thank You!
I am trying to print a building and I get huge holes in the walls at 1.5 mm wall thickness. I increased the wall thickness to 3 mm and I still get some holes in the walls but they are much smaller now. I'm trying to figure out what settings to modify to get a proper print. Could you shed some light on the subject?
If you hollow out a model with , clear blue resin, will the interior supports be visible from the outside? I am talking about the dolphin thingiverse from " paradiddle65". I just received some of the water washable clear blue resin and was concerned if they will show through the completed model. Thanks
Do you like the sphere support tops better than points? I haven’t got a printer yet, but I am trying to learn what I can and have played with Chitubox/Preform and was wondering when I noticed you could change the support tops.
Hi there, loving your channel man, subscribed last night. Have a question. Not sure if this was a bug from the software or if it’s intentional but do you have supports inside of the model? A couple times as you were showing the layers of the printing process I thought I noticed the support beams inside of it. If so, is this necessary? What are the benefits from it vs a truly hollow piece?
Hey Jake! First, thanks for subscribing! Yes. There are some internal supports on that model that were created by Chitubox to support any 'islands'. You can, however reorient the model, for instance if you model is clear and you don't want the supports to show a different way so that the model builds upon itself and the model is truly hollow.
Yes. There were a few. That's the nature of the beast otherwise those top layers would end up failing. I have been playing around with the 'infill' settings in Chitubox. They are interesting. I'm not comfortable with them just quite yet :)
Good question! They exist internally to support any islands during printing. They also help with the overall stability of the print. Sometimes you can reorient your print where it prints without internal supports hollowed... For instance, if you want your model to be transparent and would prefer for the supports to not show.
Great video. Has anyone here fround a way of focussing on miniatures instead of the center of the building plate in Chitubox? Really have trouble adding supports when I can't focus on the actual model.
@@3DPrintFarm yes, most times stack the plate full with up to 8 minis (all 28mm Base) .. but can't focus on one, to add supports or seeing if its printable
I know when I print multiples, the model that is selected is a lighter shade of blue and the all the models are listed in the File List on the right where you can also select them individually. I do wish there was a function that when highlighting a model, that the software would autocenter and focus on that model. I'm getting really good with mouse/scroll wheel ninja skills!. :) Let me take a look this evening and play around with multiple minis so I can get my head around it! Thanks btw! Great question!
Hey people! Really new to this, so i have a question: would it not be better to place the holes on model's side, that is far away from the build plate?
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MU0Cq_bjhy4/mqdefault.jpg)
You can click all the supports you want to delete and then click the delete button once they are all red. You can also unclick them this way too- its pretty nice! Thanks for the video, I learned a HUGE tip from it to avoid suction cups. I have been so lucky so far after about 50 prints and not avoiding the suction cup trap. Thankfully no FEP breakages so far.
Such a helpful video - as a novice 3dprint-artist Im always on the hunt for detailed & well done how-to videos, and this one is right up there. Thank you so much! Will stay tuned.
I cant believe I just found you! I've been looking for you all my life! haha, I cant emphasize how awesome your content is, and how you explain it in such an EASY WAY! for everyone to understand!
So you helped me a ton get going with a 20w diode laser - and now you're helping me get going with my resin printer! Your videos are top notch - i really appreciate your work!
i cant thank u enough for your trail and error with your photon to help others thx brotha
Thank you mate :) printed a mini and it was solid as a brick, really need to apply this next, thank you :)
Hollowing actually seems like the best way to even out those pulling and sucking forces that often lead to failed prints, less surface area=less suction on the FEP. I'm only three days into this keep in mind but I've learned ALOT in the last 3 days. I started with a defective build plate that required honing. Also keep in mind im a machinist with the knowledge to lap that surface at home.
Great video! I have a FDM printer, but i didn`t like too much, now i`m buying a resin 3d printer and have been seeing a lot of videos about resin prints. This was a great tutorial!
Wow they really put thought into that slicer giving you the option to punch holes in the model and then turning them into plugs so you can replace them later
Yep! It's awesome!
Thank you so much for doing these video. I am just 1 month into using Elegoo Mars resin printer and your videos have been a great help.
I know the video is 2 years old now, but this was a timely find as I'm thinking about 3d printing some tanks for Warhammer, and I was wondering about how I should do the drain/pressure holes and stuff. Thanks for uploading!
Thank you so much, I make some prints hollow but they explodes for the inner pressure of the resin. I didn't notice that there's a tool "dig hole". This is a game changer.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I got my first solid print this week and wasted a ton of resin. I feel dumb that there is a button I have never looked at and had to have it pointed out, but still feel happy as I will be able to continue prints now, knowing what to do.
I just got my printer last week... so much to learn... thanks for your support
Awesome! Welcome to the club!
Spot on mate. Im finding your vids great for learning how this stuff works and the software thats available. Great work and all the best from Britain
You explain things very well Thank you I was struggling with hollowing my model this could be a good shortcut
New subscriber here. I'm glad my brother directed me to your channel. Great info and yes, saving money on the expensive resin is important specially when a print fails. Thanks for the videos!
This is EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
That video was so good! You got my sub!
You sir are crazy, but the quality of your content rocks. Its a very enjoyable video format, thank you for the information.
8:25 I see a part that needs a support before you mentioned it. *Looks at 3d printer "I am ready now". Thanks for all the vids man
a lot of details explained thx a lot
Great videos, subscribed! Really easy to follow and I shall be playing with my Photon a lot this weekend.
Thanks! Great information! Saved me alot of resin!
If you want weight to your models, print it out with an open area, and print the open piece seporatly. Fill it with sand and then glue the piece back together.
The rub 'n buff treatment looks great. You seem to be able to handle the print after using it, but I just wanted to confirm with you that it does fully dry. The package looks like makeup or something so I just wanted to confirm with you that it does dry fully without the need to seal it with a clear coat or anything.
Good Morning!
I dont have an Resin printer, but 2 FDM Printers.
But i love your VIdeos =)
Wow, what a good video. Thank you very very much.
Great channel! Your videos helped me a lot!
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
thanks very much for this info!!!
Spasibo!
Don't forget to check for supports inside the model.
Thank you, this is really useful and practical.
Another great tutorial. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks a bunch! I appreciate it! :)
Do you seal the model after you use the rub on paint. If so what do you use to seal it? Thanks for making such a great video
I have a question, is it worth troubleshooting the supports inside the hollowed-out model? It seems like there are a lot in there, but maybe even if it COULD print, it'd be a less stable model with fewer. Just wondering your opinion.
Glad I found you . This help me slot
These are a great set of video's. I'm new to resin printing. Have a prusa sl1, so I cant use chitubox but I'm still learning alot from your video's. I have to use meshmixer or 3d builder to hollow and drain hole. But still learning about orientation and support placement, having model build upon itself, etc.
+1 sub
I realize I'm kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good website to stream new tv shows online?
@Dylan Milo i watch on Flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
@Jacob Javion yup, I've been using FlixZone for years myself :D
@Jacob Javion thanks, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it !
@Jacob Javion thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D Appreciate it!!
Thanks for this helpful video! Greatly appreciated!
This may be out of scope for this video but will ask anyway... you validate the supports along the bottom and back by flipping the model over looking for small circles (/islands). There may not be any for this particular model but how would you validate internal supports? For example, once positioned, on the top most area of the model what if there is a depressed area - like a sunken in open mouth, the back of the mouth would be an island. How would you visualize and validate it? Hope the question makes sense. Really enjoying your videos. Thanks for making the time to provide them.
nice video, thank you
Hi, have you ever thought of the issue of SLA printers like cupping and/or the large print area at once causing issues from complete failing or just what seems like Z wobble but actually the model just having issue because it's solid and large and having to fight more resin as it dunks back to the FEP?(not even mentioning how much area could stick as it peels upwards), I seem to be alone with this idea, and it does kinda suck that maybe sometimes large things need to be hollowed when I rather want them solid.
Nope. .You are not alone in your thinking. There's quite a bit of force being exerted on those models and gravity is definitely against you. The trick is getting the thing supported enough and angled correctly and even then that doesn't always work. Such is the nature of the beast of SLA printing. There is this constant tug of war between the FEP and the build plate and you just pray that the build plate wins.. but sometimes depending on how it's supported, distortion can occur because of various factors of supports, being too heavy etc. I still think we are in SLA's printing infancy and there are better things coming on the horizon. Hopefully, many of the issues you speak of will be remedied in the future.
@@3DPrintFarm Well... Formlabs seem to try to sell the remedy as a whole new product with their Form3, and their userbase were almost crying that the company seems to about to drop support for older model a-la Apple. I'm pretty happy with my Epax, but I couldn't find further information, that instead I found the same thought of SLA's nature, through some older Formlabs video explaining the machine's development and why some of their feature exist(I even found evidence of other limitation in laser SLA being the same to MSLA, such as undersides being blurry/mushy). I'll say I'd rather know the limits and study the most optimized way possible to utilize the technology.
Thanks for the video, this help a lot.
Great tutorial. Can you go over the in fill option when you get time?
I will! Thanks for posting!
The video is very constructive
Can you go over light and medium supports please and your settings? Thanks awesome videos
Thanks Ivan! I'm working on a more comprehensive video on supports.
Wow. Very nice and useful video! Could you do a video of how do you paint with a metallic paint the prints? I know that you did it in the end but you didnt show how to applicate the primer part and all this stuff. Thanks and best grettings from Spain
Sure! Thank you!
Hello,
First of all very nice channel, have been watching your videos for the past week because Qidi just sent me a shadow 5.5 for review and I'm a noob on resin printing.
As your suggestion I started using chitubox to learn about it before the printer arrives and I need some help.
I tried to slice some wired pieces with no luck!!! There's a wired skull pencil holder on thingiverse that I printed a lot on fdm printers and I'd love to be one of my projects but.......
Thanks a lot for all your content, I have 2 RUclips channels here in Brazil and I know the work and time we spend!!!
Best regards from down here in Brazil
How can I print this model in clear resin and not have the supports inside? Is a solid or infilled print the only way?
Hi brother ,
I noticed in your settings , it only shows the variables for Heavy support .
Do you have medium and light listed anywhere?
Thanks for all you do !
Cheers
The Chitubox hollow and dig hole function create non-manifold geometry. Some slicers cannot handle non-manifold geometry.
Just found your channel, loving the videos. How do you personally handle resin filtering and recalibration between prints? I’ve printed my first 4 prints without having to do these steps between prints.
Hello! quick question, do you have a video where you walk through your support settings? I've been searching around your video lists and can't find anything.
Thank you very much, at 11:34 are these general settings or just for this model ?
How would you go about printing a Zeppelin that is too big for the build plate? The diameter fits, but the length doesn't. Being completely new to resin printing, I haven't figured this out yet? On my FDM printer, it would be just a matter of slicing the cigar shape into four parts and printing them like a tube standing up. Is it the same on a resin printer? I designed the model from scratch in 3DS Max, so it is already built hollow with double walls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Nice video!, thanks for sharing!!!
Just a question : What about internal supports ? Are they needed ?
for the life of me i cant find a video about how to manally add supports to the inside of a print after you hollow it
Do you have a preference between Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon? I'm keen on the Anycubic low odor eco-resin and wondering which platform to commit to.
That’s a great question!! The Anycubic Photon, the Elegoo Mars as well as the Epax X1 and others all use the same system board! Resins are interchangeable between machines! You can use the low odor Anycubic in your Mars or your X1! Same goes with using Elegoo resin in your Photon! They are both great printers, although I find the Mars is easier to level.
Just to clarify, I do need supports inside the hollowed out model if there are island inside due to the hollowing, right?
How do you deal with islands inside of the hollowed part of the model? As far as navigating in chitubox that is
What settings use for resin 405 nm anycubic for slicer menu settings option
Hi, very helpful video. somehow chitubox can't save the model as .pws file. and new photon workshop doesn't work with win 7 and win 10. Any other slicing software that you recommend that saves as .pws so i can use my photon printer. thanks!
Just unboxed my mono X I must say got the nerves going strong getting ready for my first print. Have you used water based resin? good ? stay away? or use this brand?
hi i have a hollow STL . there is an island that is inside the hollow part. May i know how do you add "support" inside hollow part of a stl
I am new in resin printing. My question is you leave the supports inside the hollow model when you are on the slicer?
What about the supports inside the shell? It looked like it added some in there, can you manually add them or are they not needed?
Wall Thickness is pretty self-explanatory, but that Hollow tool has 3 other settings - Precision, Inner, Outer - which you did not even mention. After hollowing I notice there are various "pockets" formed in the shell (completely closed separate sub-shells) - will those not pose problems with trapped uncured resin as those abscesses close off during printing?
"If everything looks good support-wise", well, people new to resin printing (i.e., the people watching your videos) honestly aren't going to know what "looks good", that's why we're watching the video. I would like to see more explanation of the settings than just "this is what works for me, copy them" so I can learn why one setting may or may not print better than another. I've never seen sphere tips on supports prior to this video so it would have been nice to hear more about them. It sounds like what you're saying is having had issues with the model not sticking to the supports without the larger surface area that spheres provide?
9:47 "If you're printing in a heated ultrasonic"....wait, what? You poured resin into your ultrasonic cleaner?!? :)
I do like the videos and am subscribed. Just hoping for a better details on the topics so newbs like me can ramp up quicker.
Thank you for your vids, you rock. Quick noob question. What temp do you set your ultrasonic cleaner at? Okay two questions. How long do you leave them in the US bath? I'm using Resin away in my US if that matters.
Great question! I use Resin Away in my heated ultrasonic as well. I heat it up between 40-50c and go for 5 mins. This to me is the sweet spot for me, but your mileage may vary. Using this time and temp, supports come off super easy! I then rinse off in water as per Resin Away instructions. I like Resin Away because it lasts so stinking long!
@@3DPrintFarm Great news, I was already starting to frown at the fact this "pricey" cleaner was looking dirty so soon. I mean my "pre bath" of course, before I add parts to the tupperware in my US cleaner. Only been using for a week so far. Thanks for the quick response.
where do you get your metallic rub on paints?
Check the link my description for the "Rub N Buff" compound! It's AWESOME!
How you take off the inner support?
Hi I’m trying to hollow out a kaws take I was wondering how to do that without causing islands ect
is there a way to select a section of the print to NOT hollow? Like for example i print a lot of busts with bases, traditionally i hollow the bust and leave the base solid but sometimes they are pre-connected. I'd like to be able to keep some of the base solid because i tend to get some unevenness with how the base sits on things when it's hollow. little warping.
Where did you get that paint?
Actually it's a type of wax (Generic Rub N Buff compound). I placed a link to it in the description of the video. A little goes a looong way!
Hello, can I save an STL file with the hollowed and punch hole, and then open it back in Photon Workshop I need pw0 files to print them out. Thank You!
I am trying to print a building and I get huge holes in the walls at 1.5 mm wall thickness. I increased the wall thickness to 3 mm and I still get some holes in the walls but they are much smaller now. I'm trying to figure out what settings to modify to get a proper print. Could you shed some light on the subject?
If you hollow out a model with , clear blue resin, will the interior supports be visible from the outside? I am talking about the dolphin thingiverse from " paradiddle65". I just received some of the water washable clear blue resin and was concerned if they will show through the completed model. Thanks
Is it a good idea to hollow a figure
Are thick supports better than thin? I have been using thin and have some issues removing them.
Do you like the sphere support tops better than points? I haven’t got a printer yet, but I am trying to learn what I can and have played with Chitubox/Preform and was wondering when I noticed you could change the support tops.
Great video! Are there certain models that you can't make hollow or does this option work for everything?
At what scale should I just print solid
does the little arrow on the build area in chitubox point to the left or to the right when the printer is printing?
Very helpful, thanks. What does the red/blue color variation on the model represent in chitubox?
Hi there, loving your channel man, subscribed last night. Have a question. Not sure if this was a bug from the software or if it’s intentional but do you have supports inside of the model? A couple times as you were showing the layers of the printing process I thought I noticed the support beams inside of it. If so, is this necessary? What are the benefits from it vs a truly hollow piece?
Hey Jake! First, thanks for subscribing! Yes. There are some internal supports on that model that were created by Chitubox to support any 'islands'. You can, however reorient the model, for instance if you model is clear and you don't want the supports to show a different way so that the model builds upon itself and the model is truly hollow.
In chitubox is it possible to save the model with supports and holes as a STL so that i could use it with my Formlabs printer?
hi, im new in the resin printer world , and one question that i have its if u put supports inside, then u dont remove them right???
Did it print a lot of supports inside the hollowed model? It looks like it when you're going up and down the layers.
Yes. There were a few. That's the nature of the beast otherwise those top layers would end up failing. I have been playing around with the 'infill' settings in Chitubox. They are interesting. I'm not comfortable with them just quite yet :)
hey bud having a hard time choosing between the photon mono and the ld-h from creality, any insights on which to choose
can you add a Grid/Truss infill inside a model?
What happens to the supports inside the hollowed out print?
Good question! They exist internally to support any islands during printing. They also help with the overall stability of the print. Sometimes you can reorient your print where it prints without internal supports hollowed... For instance, if you want your model to be transparent and would prefer for the supports to not show.
Hi that was very helpful. Now I’m trying to make my own logo how do I do that?
What size would I use if doing a 1/12th scale of this sculpt?
How do you remove models safely from the build plate without breaking them. TIA
How do you know how big to make the hole?
Great video. Has anyone here fround a way of focussing on miniatures instead of the center of the building plate in Chitubox? Really have trouble adding supports when I can't focus on the actual model.
Are you printing an entire plate of minis at once? Trying to focus on sectioning and support?
@@3DPrintFarm yes, most times stack the plate full with up to 8 minis (all 28mm Base) .. but can't focus on one, to add supports or seeing if its printable
I know when I print multiples, the model that is selected is a lighter shade of blue and the all the models are listed in the File List on the right where you can also select them individually. I do wish there was a function that when highlighting a model, that the software would autocenter and focus on that model. I'm getting really good with mouse/scroll wheel ninja skills!. :) Let me take a look this evening and play around with multiple minis so I can get my head around it! Thanks btw! Great question!
3DPrintFarm I worked previously with Cura and there was an option.
Hey people! Really new to this, so i have a question: would it not be better to place the holes on model's side, that is far away from the build plate?
Looks like the eye indentation on the inside needs supports!
how do you cure resin inside a model when it's hollow? or can you avoid it without problems?
Also, what about "Precision" in the Hollowing settings??