Bless you im loving your 1980s Doctor Who homage. Funnily enough I didn’t paint my figures in tipex. I did ‘touch’ up a few figures where they’d discoloured. I’d rather spray paint them… then they’d not be able to move lol. A truly great video again.
I'm glad you're doing this video. I never did this kind of thing as a child, but this is something that's very interest to me. Your restoration tips have always helped me, and I know I've actually passed up buying a few beater Stormtroopers that had white out and/or white paint added at one point. I just figured that I didn't need the extra hassle that such figures presented, so I looked for cleaner figures instead. I'm looking forward to the video. To see what the true challenges might have been if I had bought those, and to see how you handle things. You're such a great mentor to collectors/restorers like me. I always learn something from you in each video, so thanks for making this one!
If it's acrylic paint or white-out, then lighter fluid works well, but it's not always a solution. Some enamel paints are very difficult to remove with lighter fluid@@gamerdude0. Old Testors paint, for instance. I couldn't tell exactly what was used on those figures that I passed on, and the seller didn't really know either. He thought it was a layer of white out over some "old paint" beneath. It was easier to just avoid that kind of mess and find other cheap figures, and that's just what I did.
There are many techniques used for stripping paint off miniatures that could work with the worst beaters (various easily available cleaning fluids and I wonder about an ultrasonic bath) but, at this point, slap some washes on them and call the Remnant Stormtroopers!
Thank you very much for your videos. I have a few yellowed stormtroopers that wouldn't take much at all to get them back to a nice white. These look great :)
I've had some brilliant results removing old spray paint using methylated spirits, the purple stuff. Softens it up really well then you can brush away and use fine wire wool to get into difficult bits if needed. Look like they turned out good just something to remember might be useful for a future project. Also I've been told by a friend that if you use a lower percentage bleach the process of whitening takes longer but also lasts longer before yellowing again. Great content thanks for sharing.
I didn't discover paints for toys till far later in life. I would never have used tippex though it can melt certain plastics. Very good work on those Storrmtroopers though. They look a treat now!
OMG! I've been really looking forward to this one and it didn't disappoint. Seeing the before and after, it's incredible how much better these all look. It took a little longer than I thought - about 40 years - but these stormtroopers are back to looking great! Another amazing restoration, TP! And a huge thank-you from childhood me! ;-)
Great video Dave. My Wife's finally give me the go ahead, after 20 years lol, to put my original SW figures on the wall in a cabinet. I think they're gonna need some TLC🙂
@@toypolloi Would not putting the figures into say a sealable bag like a sandwich bag and adding the fluid save on the amount of fluid you are using too fill the jar ?
@@MightyEmperor Sorry, but I've never heard of liquid paper in my life. Maybe it's a regional thing. I've always know it as either Tipp Ex, or "correction fluid" to give it its proper name.
Wow, those turned out great. So impressed. I used a tiny bit of white out on the shoulder of a vintage at-at driver I have. Matched very well actually. Ended up getting a recard kit for it. Just found another loose one at an antique shop in a lot with endor Han, ANH leia, Obiwan, and Paploo, for $16! 🤯👍 With your template, I used a white plastic bag to make a cape for leia 😂 Still need to find something brown for obiwan.
Honestly, it never occurred to me to use Wite-Out (common name for it here in the US) on my figures. Not sure if that's typical for other Americans, but at least not to me:) Mostly because it looked like it'd be a pain to remove! My biggest 'sin' with my toys was that I liked to chew things, especially He-Man hands.
Its interesting seeing the pink marks on the feet of those figures - as a kid my mum used to mark the feet of my Star Wars figures with pink nail polish so I could tell them apart from my brother's. I wonder if others did that too.
I've been trying to replicate the sheen that the original figures displayed. After using the Vallejo black, how long would you allow it to dry before painting with the satin vanish? Also, with the satin varnish is it close to the original sheen? Thank you, the storm troopers look happy again.
Oh wow tippex i use it when i was a little, it's 2 pack one is the correction fluid and the other is thinner and if i remember correctly the thinner smells like acetone
A much better and kinder video than the guy out there who buys thousands of figures and dissolves them in chemicals in some sadistic anti-Kenner ceremony...nice effort and a great outcome 👌🤘👍
Maybe a faster way of whitening them would be to get some LED strip lights and wrap them round the jar, it's much quicker and much brighter than our British sunshine :)
I'm working on a technique to whiten bodies and heads without pinking the limbs. It's going well so far but hard to buy the stormtrooper samples from people who think their trash stormtroopers are worth 20 bucks
I’m just now setting up a system myself using an old fish aquarium and UV lamps. I’m a little apprehensive and would appreciate some advise on peroxide percentages, exposure times, etc…
I find using an LED UV lamp accelerates the hydrogen peroxide/benzoyl peroxide treatment. I have removed RED ink from vinyl Barbie heads in as few as three applications of benzoyl peroxide over a coupe of days.
Some of the Adventure Team equipment that is molded white have yellowed with age and the type of glue used in their construction. Might give this a go on my Rocket belt action Pack.
I have an 84 Storm Shadow that is crazy yellow. Like a deep yellow. You think peroxide is strong enough or do you have any tips for a more heavy duty cleaning?
What method do you use to retrobrite and degrease? I’m just learning how to retrobrite and setting up a system using an old fish aquarium and UV lamps. I would really appreciate any advice you have regarding peroxide strengths, UV exposure times and your degreasing techniques. I know you understand the value of some of these toys. I’m a little apprehensive and don’t want to mess them up further or have them just re-yellow. Thanks for your help.
By the way, the “40 Vol” isn’t the percentage of peroxide, that’ll be 12 percent. The 40 Vol refers to the volume of oxygen it releases, there’s more info about it online.
I used a q-tip with lighter fluid on a beater (Biker Scout) to clean it. But the black paint came right off... I'm affraid to try it again. Did I do it wrong?
Another awesome rescue! Just some thoughts on the spot cream. Could you maybe wrap the area with the cream in plastic wrap to keep it from drying out, thus making each application acrive for longer? Haven't tried it myself, just something that occured to me.
Well that's a new one to me but can see how one might apply that to cover up yellowing. :| Tipp-Ex like an "ex pen tip" or perhaps a crossing out of pen tip, interesting region name? ;) Kind of hard not to retro-brite a storm trooper with them being entirely made of white plastic heh. Is that another regional name thing Ie. saying cape rather than apron on the Ugnaught? I kind of wonder if white paint might be the only solution when some parts won't whiten, challenge with that though is heavy visible brush strokes.
'Yellow Squadron' - lol! I always thought the dirty ones looked like Sandtroopers. I've Peroxided some New Hope Leia's and Hoth Troopers - they still seem fine a few years later. 11:41 'Picking' his nose!
If you get the retro Mando figure these are just remnant stormtroopers and those years of love paid off. Of course I expect people to make a video making gross Stormtroopers next.
You can also set up a couple of UV black lights to retro bright your figures indoors during cloudy days. Check out The 8-Bit Guy here on RUclips to see the set-up he uses to restore old computers
Pretty much - we call it liquid paper or (often in offices) correction fluid. It's just a brand name that now applies to a lot of generic versions like Hoover or, more relevantly, Blu-tak.
@@MightyEmperor thanks I figured as much but I wanted to make sure sometimes with local names it can be any number of reasons something is called something be it a tv show thing, a regional name, or anything of the like
Outstanding work as always Dave! 😎👍🏼 Just a reminder though that “40 Vol” hydrogen peroxide is only 12% 😉 10 vol / V10 = 3% 20 vol / V20 = 6% 30 vol / V30 = 9% 40 vol / V40 = 12% Just mentioning again so viewers are aware that _actual_ 40% H2O2 can be very dangerous, as it is extremely corrosive at higher concentrations, and can severely damage skin, eyes & lungs 😕
Restoring vintage Star Wars figures is like removing the battle damage from George Lucas' Star Wars. ;) Just kidding, nice restoration. I want to restore a vintage robot I have, thanks.
@@toypolloi I undertand you but when the yellowing is severe I eel it is the only solution. I have de-yellowed some of my figures but they yellowed again after a few months :(
Vallejo is español... it is pronounced "Vee-A Ho" It is a paint by a company that uses the Mexican Spanish, which uses three root languages... Latin, Aztec, and Apache. I just felt a need to say that, because living in San Diego, how you are pronouncing it was bothering my autistic brain... other than that, your videos are freaking amazing. Not criticizing, just trying to help is all. "Vee- A Ho" Like Mission Vallejo. Part of the California "Mission System" from the 18th Century.
How did I live without this channel? This is incredible!
Bless you im loving your 1980s Doctor Who homage. Funnily enough I didn’t paint my figures in tipex. I did ‘touch’ up a few figures where they’d discoloured. I’d rather spray paint them… then they’d not be able to move lol. A truly great video again.
I'm glad you're doing this video. I never did this kind of thing as a child, but this is something that's very interest to me. Your restoration tips have always helped me, and I know I've actually passed up buying a few beater Stormtroopers that had white out and/or white paint added at one point. I just figured that I didn't need the extra hassle that such figures presented, so I looked for cleaner figures instead. I'm looking forward to the video. To see what the true challenges might have been if I had bought those, and to see how you handle things. You're such a great mentor to collectors/restorers like me. I always learn something from you in each video, so thanks for making this one!
dude it's only lighter fluid and a cotton bud lol
If it's acrylic paint or white-out, then lighter fluid works well, but it's not always a solution. Some enamel paints are very difficult to remove with lighter fluid@@gamerdude0. Old Testors paint, for instance. I couldn't tell exactly what was used on those figures that I passed on, and the seller didn't really know either. He thought it was a layer of white out over some "old paint" beneath. It was easier to just avoid that kind of mess and find other cheap figures, and that's just what I did.
There are many techniques used for stripping paint off miniatures that could work with the worst beaters (various easily available cleaning fluids and I wonder about an ultrasonic bath) but, at this point, slap some washes on them and call the Remnant Stormtroopers!
I always called it liquid paper. Figures turned out great!
Brilliant chemistry lesson! Hydrogen peroxide, spot cream, 40 Yr old blu-tack and two sunbathing Ugnaughts!
Thank you very much for your videos.
I have a few yellowed stormtroopers that wouldn't take much at all to get them back to a nice white.
These look great :)
beautiful; thanks for giving them back their dignity after all these decades
I've had some brilliant results removing old spray paint using methylated spirits, the purple stuff. Softens it up really well then you can brush away and use fine wire wool to get into difficult bits if needed. Look like they turned out good just something to remember might be useful for a future project. Also I've been told by a friend that if you use a lower percentage bleach the process of whitening takes longer but also lasts longer before yellowing again. Great content thanks for sharing.
I'd love to see the little armies you have!
Great job, once again!
I've done a few videos over the years on them. Check out this one: ruclips.net/video/g4shK8K7FZs/видео.html
Always a treat to watch you do what you do. And you inspire me and probably others to try the same. Thank you Dave
Cheers!
Have fun!
Loved the before and after pics!
They turned out great, nice job
I didn't discover paints for toys till far later in life. I would never have used tippex though it can melt certain plastics. Very good work on those Storrmtroopers though. They look a treat now!
OMG! I've been really looking forward to this one and it didn't disappoint. Seeing the before and after, it's incredible how much better these all look. It took a little longer than I thought - about 40 years - but these stormtroopers are back to looking great! Another amazing restoration, TP! And a huge thank-you from childhood me! ;-)
Glad you enjoyed it. They turned out really nice in the end. And the tipp-ex didn't put up too much of a fight.
@@toypolloi it had no chance against Toy Polloi!
Great video Dave. My Wife's finally give me the go ahead, after 20 years lol, to put my original SW figures on the wall in a cabinet. I think they're gonna need some TLC🙂
That is awesome!
@@toypolloi Would not putting the figures into say a sealable bag like a sandwich bag and adding the fluid save on the amount of fluid you are using too fill the jar ?
@@lordmalvada8212
You can use the fluid over and over again.
Outstanding as always. Those stormtroopers now look like their mum has switched to using Daz haha.
Brilliant! Those stormies look so happy now!!
Amazing transformation!
Awesome job bring those figures back to great condition
I've found isopropyl alcohol has worked quite well on correction fluid. At least on LEGO.
I blame Mike Nesmith’s mother.
We always called it liquid paper here in Canada (or at least my neck o the woods!)
That's the generic name over here in the UK, Tipp-Ex is just the biggest brand name.
Same in US. Also "white out".
@@MightyEmperor Sorry, but I've never heard of liquid paper in my life. Maybe it's a regional thing. I've always know it as either Tipp Ex, or "correction fluid" to give it its proper name.
I see others use UV light to make them white. And it works!
Sunlight works just as well and is free. So that's a win for me. No point spending money when you don't need to.
Thanks Dave, enjoyed this very much.
Nicely done
Wow, those turned out great. So impressed. I used a tiny bit of white out on the shoulder of a vintage at-at driver I have. Matched very well actually. Ended up getting a recard kit for it. Just found another loose one at an antique shop in a lot with endor Han, ANH leia, Obiwan, and Paploo, for $16! 🤯👍 With your template, I used a white plastic bag to make a cape for leia 😂 Still need to find something brown for obiwan.
Honestly, it never occurred to me to use Wite-Out (common name for it here in the US) on my figures. Not sure if that's typical for other Americans, but at least not to me:) Mostly because it looked like it'd be a pain to remove! My biggest 'sin' with my toys was that I liked to chew things, especially He-Man hands.
Hey Dave
Another great video🙂
Take care
Fantastic job yet again sir!
13:35 "Finally some well deserved sun eh luv?" "Yes dear, we needed this."
Amazing, Awesome, Great job!!
Its interesting seeing the pink marks on the feet of those figures - as a kid my mum used to mark the feet of my Star Wars figures with pink nail polish so I could tell them apart from my brother's. I wonder if others did that too.
I think maybe people did this. Especially if you had other siblings who had star wars figures.
"Kiss Off" works good too at removing marker and scuff marks.
Glad there is a picture because I’d have no idea what you are talking about, in the U.S. we call it White-Out
Interesting as usual!
Tippex sounds like he could be a HeMan villain. I think you need to do a custom figure.
I used the benzoyl peroxide trick before, it is such a lifesaver. Removed ballpoint pen ink from some of my figs.
Great job DAVEEEEEE
I've been trying to replicate the sheen that the original figures displayed. After using the Vallejo black, how long would you allow it to dry before painting with the satin vanish?
Also, with the satin varnish is it close to the original sheen?
Thank you, the storm troopers look happy again.
Takes 30 mins for the paint to dry normally, maybe quicker if it's a warm day. I find the satin gives a close look to the original finish. Cheers
More figures saved from the bin nice video
Oh wow tippex i use it when i was a little, it's 2 pack one is the correction fluid and the other is thinner and if i remember correctly the thinner smells like acetone
A much better and kinder video than the guy out there who buys thousands of figures and dissolves them in chemicals in some sadistic anti-Kenner ceremony...nice effort and a great outcome 👌🤘👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing work. I have to confess that prior to watching the video, I had thought you were going to use Tipp-Ex to whiten the figures......LOL
Wow. I'd love to say more but that before and after comparison...just wow.
Thanks 👍
Maybe a faster way of whitening them would be to get some LED strip lights and wrap them round the jar, it's much quicker and much brighter than our British sunshine :)
Nicely done! Vallejo....say it with me Vuh-lay-ho
Tomato Tomato.
I'm working on a technique to whiten bodies and heads without pinking the limbs. It's going well so far but hard to buy the stormtrooper samples from people who think their trash stormtroopers are worth 20 bucks
I’m just now setting up a system myself using an old fish aquarium and UV lamps. I’m a little apprehensive and would appreciate some advise on peroxide percentages, exposure times, etc…
Nice to see those sunbathing Ugnaughts remembered their suncream
good video, look into personal protective equipment such as nitrile gloves, wouldn't want to get cancer down the road.
I just discovered your channel today. I've watched several of your videos. Keep doing this awesome stuff!
Welcome aboard!
Bravo
I find using an LED UV lamp accelerates the hydrogen peroxide/benzoyl peroxide treatment. I have removed RED ink from vinyl Barbie heads in as few as three applications of benzoyl peroxide over a coupe of days.
They weren't dirty, their armor was battle damaged.
Why lighter fluid instead of eucalyptus oil?
Some of the Adventure Team equipment that is molded white have yellowed with age and the type of glue used in their construction. Might give this a go on my Rocket belt action Pack.
im wondering if Break clean would work for this aswell ?
what if you paint the mold spots on the figure will it look right?
What an intro!
Dave have ever wore Gloves lighter Fluid is Oily
I have an 84 Storm Shadow that is crazy yellow. Like a deep yellow. You think peroxide is strong enough or do you have any tips for a more heavy duty cleaning?
If you degrease them after deyellowing, then keep finger oils off, the yellowing should slow down in future.
What method do you use to retrobrite and degrease? I’m just learning how to retrobrite and setting up a system using an old fish aquarium and UV lamps. I would really appreciate any advice you have regarding peroxide strengths, UV exposure times and your degreasing techniques. I know you understand the value of some of these toys. I’m a little apprehensive and don’t want to mess them up further or have them just re-yellow. Thanks for your help.
Great job, Dave!
Have you ever considered building a UV light box for when there's no sunshine outside?
Thanks. I like to do things cheaply if I can and the sun is free. Can't get cheaper than that.
The Kenner elder Ugnaught liver spot variant.
By the way, the “40 Vol” isn’t the percentage of peroxide, that’ll be 12 percent. The 40 Vol refers to the volume of oxygen it releases, there’s more info about it online.
Also it is just me or did the intro look a lot like the 1980 titles for Doctor Who? 😂🤣
It did 🥳
Great tip! Thank you! Fun fact: Liquid Paper / Tipp-Ex / Wite-Out was invented by the mother of Mike Nesmith, of The Monkees.
I used a q-tip with lighter fluid on a beater (Biker Scout) to clean it. But the black paint came right off... I'm affraid to try it again. Did I do it wrong?
Never had that happen. Had it been repainted?
@@toypolloi Not that I know of. It didn't look like it had been.
Another awesome rescue!
Just some thoughts on the spot cream. Could you maybe wrap the area with the cream in plastic wrap to keep it from drying out, thus making each application acrive for longer?
Haven't tried it myself, just something that occured to me.
You can, and I would suggest that on larger areas. For small bits like this I don't bother.
How long does it take before they go back to yellow?
Depends on how they are stored/displayed. A few years at most.
@@toypolloi Interesting
it seems like the more I hydrogen peroxide the same figures, the faster the yellowing returns even faster.
I hide them in cool and dark!
@@camcordernonsense5264 First half of that comment is concerning
Do you know where I could find a replacement rifle ?
eBay. There are loads of sellers for reproduction weapons for these figures.
LET'S GO! EFF you , Tipp-Ex!!
Dave, does the Satin Varnish have to be applied immediately after drying or can I use figures painted days ago? Thank you😉
It can be applied anytime. Just let the paint dry.
@@toypolloi Thank you Dave❤😊👍❤
4:49 what’s that song while your cleaning the figs? Please
It's the Toy Polloi theme!
That is how I expect to be treated when I go to the spa!
I always put in a special request to have my nose cleared out with a cocktail stick
Well that's a new one to me but can see how one might apply that to cover up yellowing. :| Tipp-Ex like an "ex pen tip" or perhaps a crossing out of pen tip, interesting region name? ;)
Kind of hard not to retro-brite a storm trooper with them being entirely made of white plastic heh. Is that another regional name thing Ie. saying cape rather than apron on the Ugnaught? I kind of wonder if white paint might be the only solution when some parts won't whiten, challenge with that though is heavy visible brush strokes.
'Yellow Squadron' - lol! I always thought the dirty ones looked like Sandtroopers. I've Peroxided some New Hope Leia's and Hoth Troopers - they still seem fine a few years later. 11:41 'Picking' his nose!
If you get the retro Mando figure these are just remnant stormtroopers and those years of love paid off. Of course I expect people to make a video making gross Stormtroopers next.
Like this?
ruclips.net/video/53RaY2PxGoo/видео.html
You can also set up a couple of UV black lights to retro bright your figures indoors during cloudy days. Check out The 8-Bit Guy here on RUclips to see the set-up he uses to restore old computers
I'm Austrslia we call it White Out
I've run into the exact same situation, covered with Tipex and it was super sticky. I've used 95% alcool and a toothbrush to get it off.
Blue ink on the Ugnaught....one of my two that I got as a kid HAD blue ink on it straight from the package.
I have a question for UK folk is tip ex the brand name so it’s a brand superseding the actual things actual name like band aid
Pretty much - we call it liquid paper or (often in offices) correction fluid. It's just a brand name that now applies to a lot of generic versions like Hoover or, more relevantly, Blu-tak.
@@MightyEmperor thanks I figured as much but I wanted to make sure sometimes with local names it can be any number of reasons something is called something be it a tv show thing, a regional name, or anything of the like
At first i thought you make two Sandtroopers and gave them pauldrons in theire shoulders 😄
Right. I’ll be dipping my Wampa tonight
You should have put them out last week -plenty of sun for you (if they didn’t melt or explode in the heat!)
In Las Vegas we call it white out.
A few people have said that, or snow paste. Seems to have many names the world over.
Your not using Humbrol Acrylics as much anymore
I heard the hydrogen peroxide method doesn’t last? Has they turn back to yellow?
It depends on how they are stored. A few years at most.
@@toypolloi Does the hydrogen peroxide % matter for how long it will last? Is the stronger % better?
You can use the liquid a few times if you store it well. The higher % works quicker and you don't want to leave it in too long.
How much would you charge to restore my Lost in Space Robot?
Outstanding work as always Dave! 😎👍🏼
Just a reminder though that “40 Vol” hydrogen peroxide is only 12% 😉
10 vol / V10 = 3%
20 vol / V20 = 6%
30 vol / V30 = 9%
40 vol / V40 = 12%
Just mentioning again so viewers are aware that _actual_ 40% H2O2 can be very dangerous, as it is extremely corrosive at higher concentrations, and can severely damage skin, eyes & lungs 😕
Great job, but be careful with that lighter fluid, very bad for you
Restoring vintage Star Wars figures is like removing the battle damage from George Lucas' Star Wars. ;) Just kidding, nice restoration. I want to restore a vintage robot I have, thanks.
And smaller Brushes
Vallejo dies match the sheen of the Plastics on star war toys
What gets off permanent marker?
The same as what I show gets the ink off in this very video.
@@toypolloi thank you so much
Hot soapy water! #iconicon
tipp ex is called liquid paper in canada
and why not just paint the figures white?
I like to get figures back to how they were originally and stormtroopers were not painted.
@@toypolloi I undertand you but when the yellowing is severe I eel it is the only solution.
I have de-yellowed some of my figures but they yellowed again after a few months :(
Enjoy the Wabi Sabi of it. Nothing is perfect
It is hilarious how most of our toys around the globe have paint spots on the feet!🤣🤣🤣
How else will we know who they belong to! 😎😍
that ugnaught looks like hes in charge of painting all the hard to reach lower areas.
Got yourself a couple of remnant stormtroopers…
Vallejo is español... it is pronounced "Vee-A Ho"
It is a paint by a company that uses the Mexican Spanish, which uses three root languages... Latin, Aztec, and Apache.
I just felt a need to say that, because living in San Diego, how you are pronouncing it was bothering my autistic brain... other than that, your videos are freaking amazing. Not criticizing, just trying to help is all. "Vee- A Ho"
Like Mission Vallejo. Part of the California "Mission System" from the 18th Century.
Thanks. I've always pronounced it this way. I'm sure there are many things I say wrong. Just a quirk of the channel. Cheers