Best of British Bouldering: The Ogwen Valley
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- The Ogwen Valley has an enormous amount of rock to climb on. It’s not just one set of boulders, it’s lots of sets of boulders scattered in clusters across the length and breadth of the valley. Within this video we visit a few different venues to sample some of the classics.
Thanks to The North Face for supporting this video.
See the previous episode which we filmed at Curbar in The Peak District: • World Class Bouldering...
#bouldering #rockclimbing #ukbouldering
Intro 00:00
Roadside bouldering. Caseg Fraith 01:18
The Sheep Pen Boulders 03:30
Project for the day 05:56
Wales' most beautiful boulder 11:33
An iconic boulder problem 13:23
Stunning evening 15:17 
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What's your favourite boulder problem in Dyffryn Ogwen?
Not The Pinch, my nemesis!
The Elephants Arse, Behind Braichmelyn.
I was raised in Mynydd Llandegai and love the sport available in that area.
I hadn’t considered asking people which is their least favourite problem 😂
Mynydd Llandegai is lovely, as it Braichmelyn. The only Elephant’s Arse I’ve done (so to speak) is the ‘classic’ Severe route over on Holyhead Mountain. Idwal Squeeze would be perfect prep for that 😂
That was awesome 👌 The Squeeze test at Mt Arapiles is similar to the one that you played on 😂 Except its more double tier caving & usually attempted after intoxication & around midnight 🤣
When I went to Arapiles I really wanted to do this, but a week or two I arrived someone got stuck in it and had to get rescued, which - if the rumours around the Pines were true - involved them pouring oil down upon them to lube them up, making them easier to pull out. Perhaps unsurprisingly I found this quite off-putting, but for reasons I can’t quite understand it didn’t put me off trying Mr Chicken. I then proceeded to have ‘an experience’ in that, getting close to squeezing out into Watchtower Crack, but not quite making it and having to reverse the whole way out instead. I was wearing a vest and shorts and both had rubbed so badly I had sores all the way up my back and worse of all - inside my bum crack (don’t ask me how). I’m aware you didn’t ask for all this information but it felt cathartic imparting it, so thank for listening 😅
@ukclimbingofficial That was a classic read 🤣 Your totally correct about the oil situation at the Squeeze test , I saw the mess at the boulder the following weekend 👌 Great effort attempting Mr Chicken 👌 That's one Arapiles adventure most people would never attempt 😳
@ukclimbingofficial ps ! There was a high angle rescue at the Rap's today 🫣 Haven't heard what happened yet 👌
The Idwal Squeeze in all variations: feet-first, up and down 🤣
In retrospect we should have sacked off the rest of the problems and focussed solely on this 😂
What's the best guidebook for the crags featured in this video? It doesn't look as though any of them are on Rockfax?
This is the one you want: www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/guidebooks/north_wales_bouldering_3rd_edition-13542
Cor wish I was good enough to climb more outdoors - I went to dartmoor once and could barely finish anything above V1 😢
Dartmoor is brutal 😂 hand slashing crystals and tough grading on old school problems... Try a trip to Burbage valley in the peak or stanage, it's cliche but you'll find a lot of easier problems to get you hooked!
As the person above has said, don’t underestimate the difficulty of a Dartmoor V1 - they’re desperate (and sharp)!! Burbage in the Peak would be a great place to start, although there’s plenty of other places.
Sick! next trip planned - thanks for the advice :)
If you're after any other recommendations it'd be worth posting a quick question on the Forums. There's a wealth of information out there and usually some helpful answers.
Most people get spanked on their first trip outdoors. Give it a few more goes and you should notice a big improvement as you learn to read the rock and become more accustomed to the smaller foot holds
I assume you meant to say Dyffryn Ogwen?
Funnily enough I deliberating saying that, but (rightly or wrongly) didn't. I lived in North Wales for 10 years, so know what the Welsh language means to people, but in this instance opted for 'valley' simply because that's the word that will be understood by the majority of our audience.
@@ukclimbingofficial I get it, just felt like it would have been worth a mention at the beginning.
Having seen your post I’m now kicking myself. To compensate, I've just pinned a question asking people what their favourite problem is in Dyffryn Ogwen 🙂
Back around on Klem's, Lads
Funnily enough, Xa said "I'm going to be pulled up for not doing the sit, aren't I" 😂
We would have added in the grade for the stand, but I couldn't find anything recorded, which is a shame as it's a nice, easy-ish problem that's well worth doing. The sit is pretty unpleasant/awkward in comparison (or at least it is in my opinion).
The sit is bloody desperate
@@Josephmccartymccartycouk It really is isn't it?!?
I ended up managing the sit in the end (don't think it was filmed). Xa actually managed all the hard moves but I think we moved on before he had a chance to link it together. A bit of an unpleasant start!
If it wasn't filmed, did it really happen 😉