Building a better Hamilton Khaki - The Expedition
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2023
- Hamilton Khaki Expedition. The newest khaki from Hamilton and not much at all like the usual khakis'. Why? Because it has a compass bezel. Hamilton set themselves the goal of making not just a better but also more popular field watch. I dive in to understand what they did and whether or not they succeeded.
1. Let me know what you think of this watch in the comments.
2. Don't slay me for using the terms tritone and duotone incorrectly - Think laterally. I'm certain you'll intent.
3. Enjoy and if you do - Please consider subscribing.
Cheers.
for inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Tissot does have a plastic escapement. I’ve seen a powermatic 80 being dissembled, but as far as I know this is exclusive to Tissot.
True - we agree that it's not the case in the hamilton 😃
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch 100%
The Powermatic 80 exist in 3 different configurations. The C07.1xx with a synthetic or plastic escapement. The C07.6xx with a regular escapement. And the C07.8xx with a silicium hair spring. The C07.1xx versions can be found in multiple Tissot and Certina watches but not all. I'm pretty sure that Hamilton only use the C07.6xx serie of the Powermatic 80.
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatchwhew! I was hoping that this was the case!
The real slam dunk would've been a 12-hour rotating bezel. Use as a second time zone or time your hikes over hours. It would have provided the same diver-esque bezel aesthetic without trying to be a diver... and it would actually have been useful.
Interesting perspective - Didn't think of that. You may very well be right 😃
I don’t mind the compass. It’s unique. It’s okay to be different 🙃 that’s why we collect.
It would be so good if an aftermarket option would become available .
They used to make that very watch. With screw down crowns
Would’ve been good with a GMT hand and fixed bezel like the explorer 2
This man is an analyst!
Rather than someone who shares details and opinions
That sounds like a compliment. Thank you 😀😀
I for one use bezels all the time for timing. Any rotating bezel can work for this. Compass style or otherwise. Maybe I'm just obsessed with timing short trips or quick runs to the store but I find them quite useful and fun.
A little bit of OCD never hurt anyone 😃😃
I'm the same and I've just got one 😂😂
Loved this more technical yet easy to absorb review. Not many others on RUclips doing the same. thank you!
I gotta say after getting the khaki field titanium, the powermatic 80 is such an amazing movement for a field watch. Mine somehow is under +/- 1 second and the fact that it holds power for a few days is amazing.
Lucky you for sure 😃😃
Me too
Thank you for clarifying that plastic component rumor. I have heard countless youtubers talk about it without prove. I even thought about opening my Powermatic 80 for that reason!
There are at least three variants of the powermatic 80. One has a “synthetic” escapement, but it’s not in the hamilton. The PRX has the synthetic escapement 😀
I thoroughly enjoy your videos and assessment of watches!
Thanks - Glad you enjoy them 😃😃
Good analysis, Mike. Agreed that the bezel, while pointless, does make it interesting.
Thanks, also for stopping by 😃👍
great explained as usual , you cleared points most of other watch geeks haven‘t even think of while just praising this hamilton expedition… i went back buying one of the most clean rolex date just ever made the 126300 with silver dial, smooth bezel an jubilee bracelet… have a nice week
Thanks - You too! 😃😃
Excellent, super thorough video, thank you.
I'm very happy about the 37mm size. Like Tissot with the Seastar 36mm and PRX 35mm, mainstream Swatch Group brands are finally releasing smaller comfy unisex versions.
I believe that this movement has a free sprung balance regulated at the factory which should offset any loss of accuracy resulting from the lower beat rate.
Personally, even with a compass bezel I find field watches exceptionally dull so this isn't for me, but Hamilton have done a good job.
Fully agree when it comes to field watches. They are often just too simple for me.
Give me a bezel, or a gmt function - something to spice it up 😀😀
I would love to see a rotating pulsometer bezel on this (or any field) watch. Calculating a heart rate on a hike (expedition) would actually be a fairly useful thing
That would be cool 😀
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch The problem with that would be the aesthetics of exactly the same numbers in two rows on the dial. And you can't time hours that way. I don't think this idea would really work.
Great detailed review and with a very natural relaxed professional presentation style 👍
Much appreciated! 😃
The Seiko “tortoise” is a good alternative with a compass bezel.
True. Hadn’t actually crossed my mind 😀
I love my green tortoise.
The inertia of the heavier case and the SEIKO movement would greatly help it with surviving actual usage in the field: aka shooting. However the shitty hardlex is a meeh...
@@rosomak8244 the tortoise uses sapphire
The tortoise’s are actually sapphire. One of the reasons I chose it.
I use my timing bezel to grill steaks 🥩😎. I’m not a big fan of field watches but I do love my Explorer.
Good choice! 😃(Steak and explorer) 😃
Does anybody know if the newer Hamilton powermatic variants are antimagnetic? I cant find anything that definitively says one way or the other.
Terrific review! Thanks
Thanks a ton 😃😃
Boet I love your channel. Shoutout from Sydney via Jo'burg.
Hey, thanks! Enjoy the weather (europe is a freezer at the mo...) 😃😃
Nice review. I have used a watch timing bezel daily for decades - and used them in the past for SCUBA diving.
Very cool watch. Prices have gone up with all watches including Hamilton. My Hamilton Khaki King, although not as robust, was purchased 7 years ago for $340 on a bracelet.
Everything is expensive these days 😀😀😀🙈
Super chill for a saturday evening! :)
Hamilton should have gone all in and made a 24 hour navigator watch. It makes so much more sense. Point the hour hand the same direction as shadows, and north would be in the 12 o'clock direction.
(Edit: Noon must ofcourse be at 12 o'clock, rather than the standard of having midnight being at the 12-oclock.)
Glad you enjoyed it! 😃
I'm always perplexed that Hamilton never seemed to discover AR coating. Any thoughts on that on this watch? Was glare an issue?
Tbh - I tried it in store, so didn't get a huge amount of different scenarios with it (sunlight, moonlight, different lighting fixture types). Generally the Khakis have such flat, non-reflective dials that it hasn't tended to be a problem for me, but there are situations where it can be an issue 😃😃
Good Video. I've just purchased the 37mm Black on the Bracelet. You are spot on, nobody needs the compass bezel. The main reason I bought the watch was because the Bezel looks great like on a dive watch😊
There ya go! It's a winner 😃😃
Me too, hybrid character of this watch is indispensable and a winner for me...
Great review! I was going to pull then trigger on the Tudor BB54 but tried this Hamilton 37mm on a few days ago and wow!! I am almost gutted it fits me amazingly well … what did you think BB54 Or this….!??
I like them both but BB54 all the way for me. It's better in every technical way and from a design perspective I prefer it. If it didn't exist, the expedition would be in the runnning 😃😃
But don't listen to me - Buy what speaks to you .❤️
IMO, expedition is gorgeous...
I use my dive bezels daily when I’m cooking and my GMT bezels regularly when I’m travelling so many of us do use them. BTW another very good, well considered review, I like your style and even better than the ID Guy. Sorry you don’t have enough viewers to go to Banff but you’ll get there with quality content like this. 😅
I'm a huge fan of ID Guy, so that's big praise for me. Thanks. We'll see... Maybe they will some day. 😃😃
very thorough review, like it!! maybe the invite to the next release will come soon dude 😎😎
Fingers crossed 😂😂
Great review sir! I have the Khaki Field auto in 38mm and love it , on my smaller wrist , the 38 is perfect , but they do wear big for that size. This watch could be my next purchase ,as a companion, but not a replacement for my Field Auto??
Cheers Gregg.
Thanks - Glad you enjoyed it 😃
I noticed you didn't include the Fortis F-39 or 41 pilot's watch. It appears to me as ultra rugged field watch with a multi- use bezel. Your thoughts?? JNRA
Never tried the specific Fortis, unfortunately - Heard some speak positively of it, but no opinion myself other than just having read specs... 😃😃😃
What I noticed immediately when this model was released is that it seems like a direct response to the many criticisms of those frustrated with critical oversights in the latest round of Khaki Field Titanium Autos in 38mm - AR coating, screw-down crown, and contrasting hands against the black dial. However, instead of simply updating that model and potentially cannibalizing sales of existing stock, they released a new model that fixes these issues but loses what made the titanium version great - titanium case, dial with 24hr markings and 1/3s hashes, lumed numerals, precise syringe-style hands, clean bezel, and sleekly curved lugs.
The 100m WR people keep talking about was already there. I'm so frustrated they didn't simply fix these oversights on the titanium model. I dislike the compass bezel, the fact that it's steel, faux vintage lume, no lume on the numerals, less precise gradations and hands, and chunkier lugs. I do like 37mm with a shorter lug-to-lug and a slimmer profile, but other than that, the other design changes are all for the worse, in my opinion.
I truly wish Hamilton would simply correct these oversights in the titanium autos, since they just cheaped out the first time around with no AR coating or screw-down-crown, but I can see why they don't want to make something so obviously better than existing offerings.
The compass bezel is a nice addition. This Hamilton model is a good looking watch.
Agree .😀
Well done sir !
Thanks 😀
I badly needed an explorer alternative but not something too obviously homaged like a Traska or Lorier. I hear you, it wears like a BB54. Would you say it wears like a 36mm explorer? I currently have bb58, so the 36mm black bay is a no. What other options are out there that's 36-37mm?
Worth a look - A little expensive. Haven't seen them in the metal, but they have something
tuulwatches.com/collections/filthy-13/products/filthy-13-stainless-steel-white-dial
Great review.
Glad you enjoyed it 😀
I've always wanted to like Hamilton, but something was missing and I don't know what. For the price point, it's been a great value, no doubt. True, the leather is best with the watch IMO. Perhaps it might grow on me. As usual, seeing any watch in person is best.
I'll save up more and get a good grey market Explorer 1.
Love your channel!
Saw this model in person in Geneva last month. Looks very good indeed. But since I already have a seiko field master JDM with a compass bezel have no need for this one.
Yup - Many others like it 😊
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers! 😃
Great vid, I have a Khaki 38mm and love it. I will invite to Banff for Hamiltons next field release as I am not far away. I pass3d on the Tudor field.
Please do an analysis vid on the 36 or 40mm Explorer.
Thank you for your time and insights.
Regards,
Starlight
Right on - appreciated 😃😃
Mike are Cartier vintage quartz movements from the 80s good to high quality how many yrs use will I get it if is from 2012?
I have an Ebel wave in ss new from 2023 is the quartz movement from Cartier and of high quality?
I wanted a slim retro style dress watch and I do not want to duplicate what I have. Your Thoughts please.
Starlight
I know it’s a pilots watch but how can you leave out the spirit 37 ?! For me it’s in the same ballpark as your field watch comparison. What are your thoughts on it ? Explorer is still the king but can’t justify that marcha. There allot more watch you can get for 150k !
I do agree - A glaring omission. Got a video coming on the spirit 37. It's HUGE value for money - movement, power reserve, finishing, design, size. Really a big fan. 😃😃
It seems we use the term "milled clasp" a little loosely based on appearance. The Expedition clasp is stamped with milled features.
Fair point - Will remember to more precise 😃
So, from their current catalogue, which Hamilton would you pick as your favorite, good sir? The one that you would consider buying, worth the money, and has the best design overall.
Murph.
After that
Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer. It's way underrated (owned it for a while and regretted selling it) 😊
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch Oh, I was about to buy the Murph but got scared by its reflective crystal. Now I'm eyeing Sinn, and that's after watching your Tudor - Rolex - Sinn comparison video. So, Thanks a bunch for the videos, Sir.
Most Hamilton H-10 movements have +-1sn accuracy, really unbeliavable 👍❤️
I agree and think people are being far too whiny about the bezel. I like it.. and it can still be used to track time the way I use my diver watch bezels.
They could have made a gmt version of the watch. A useful complication for a field watch. Date or no date.
Then there are 2 bezel options a fixed or rotating one. Rotating bezel could be a by directional countdown or gmt to track a 3rd zone.
Different colors for bezel and gmt hand to have even more options.
Where I’m going with it? A highly customizable field watch similar to what Laco and Stowa offer with their fliegers.
Swatch already offers an affordable true gmt in Mido Ocean Star GMT.
As to the compass you can get a small one to clip on your watch strap.
A GMT version could be an interesting idea. Still with compass bezel or no? 😀
They could keep the compass bezel and have 24 hrs scale on the inside.
Or ditch compass for a GMT bezel
I think it's a cool look. The "compass" is... well I wouldn't say it's useless, but it's not far off it. The thing is, it's not actually a compass but something compass-like. You need to have the sun showing at all times in order to orient the watch so that the compass is accurate. I do a lot of navigation at night, and also during the day the sky is in full cloud, or fog/mist and well.... in those times the bezel is completely useless. But you know all of this. It's just for style points. I much prefer a diver with countdown bezel which is more useful. A titanium on nato for lightness is great for my outdoor navigation, with a Garmin on my main wrist.
I'm glad Hamilton is moving away from their old lugs.
I like that brushed surface more that the blasted khaki mechanical.
I wear sometimes 18000 watches. I know that's half of the hi-beat frequency, it's as charming, just in a different way. 21600 is not an issue.
What are your thoughts about the Longines Spirit 37? I almost bought a Khaki and realized putting the “aviation” Spirit on a nato IS the far superior field watch
That might be the best watch in the world right now. In fact, it's so good that they absolutely had to ruin it a bit by making the crown non-screw down (unlike the 40 and 42mm options where it screws down normally - they had to mess up the date windows in those models). Because that seems to be the new trend these days - make a perfect watch and then ruin it with an obligatory half-assed detail. Like this Hamilton - let's make a killer piece for the money and then add a bloody compass bezel... Wait, what?? It's like making a cake and then glazing it with fish oil... Sorry for the rant.
The non screw down doesn’t bother me at all, it’s a very sturdy crown. In fact, i saw a teddy baldesarre video with a watch maker that stated unless it’s a diver it’s better without as there are no threads to wear over time.
@@mosquitojoyride I saw that too. To be fair, the only reason it bugs me is that they put a screw down crown on the 40 and 42mm options, and then somehow magically decided against it on the 37mm. And personally, if a watch has 100m of water resistance, I will absolutely take it swimming and snorkelling. So a screw down crown is just a welcomed safety feature that prevents pulling it out by accident.
Good question: I have a video in the works about it. Short version - Till now I’ve seen the IWC mark xx as the ultimate dress flieger.
I’m pretty sure the Longines is as good and possibly better than the IWC for 1/3 of the price. But the final verdict will have to wait for the video 😀
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch Looking forward to that video!
Maybe I missed it, thought you ‘d mention the Longines Spirit.
Clearly an mistaken omission 😃😃
Hamilton Khaki Field GMT Titanium (with date at 6) when?
good q.... 😊
TLDR: It's a better Khaki but not a better watch.
I completely agree.
That would make for a very short video 😂😂😂
The hour hand is how you make the compass bezel work. To me, the arrow is the obvious choice.
In the Northern Hemisphere it is because you point at the Sun. In the Southern you point the twelve o'clock mark at the Sun as he says in the video.
I don't like the 4 squares on the bezel for word directions. If it had a coin edge all around I would like it much more.
Lower grade "powermatic" movements contain plastic pellet forks and 4 wheels. That's not a rumour.
True - but that variant of the movement isn't in the hamilton. 😃
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch Yes people get a bit confused by the rebranding of the ETA 2824-2. I always wonder at the ways the Swiss manage to sell decades old stuff as "innovation" for top money.
Murphy 38mm is really beautiful but makes it a mirror the time.
True! 😀
Something which may make you really curious would be real field watches, like for example KOMANDIRSKIE 02036A
The Rolex Explorer really pushes the boundaries of the definition of a field watch and I would say - oversteps them. Field watches should be matt black (or a dark color), with little to no polish and printed indices. The Explorer I is none of these things. The more tooly field watches also have all arabic indices, with a 24-hour chapter inboard. The Tudor Ranger is much closer to the true field watch aesthetic.
Do tend to agree with you for sure
Cheers
Ranger is good watch IMO...
How dare Hamilton not invite you. These brands have no pulse on the market. I bet Hamilton buyers live on RUclips.
Lol. I know, right? 😂
I just want the og with more water resistance
I don’t think the accuracy is acceptable for the price range, but the watch will run at a lot better rate than the stated accuracy
And we all thank for the recycling of M777s and the scrap finding its way to China for the resurrection of relatively affordable titanium watch case options recently.
I am not sure about this. Anybody that buys this is someone that buys brand equity and locational value. If the name "Hamilton" and "Swiss Made" is of value to you then the $1000 price tag might be worth it. There is better value to be found elsewhere. I would for example rather go for a Formex Field Automatic or Marathon's General Purpose Mechanical or say a Bulova like that "Hack Watch" of theirs. Then we haven't even looked at titans like Seiko or Timex. Enjoy the rugby Mike! 😁💪
Looking forward to tonight.
Fair point. 1k for a hamilton is steep. Sinn 556 for me buy a country mile 😀😀
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch I'd rather have that Sinn too! Gorgeous and practical. Yeah, lets hope the French go down without too much of a fight haha! Enjoy it and have a great week!
If a watch has a N, S, E, W on the bezel, I do not buy it. I'm not a heathen, I know what a compass looks like and do not need that showing on my wrist. (even worse when you pay good money on a watch). Casio ABC watch, no problem, but a tool watch no way. And before you say it helps you navigate with the sun, you can do that without the letters printed anywhere on the watch, you can do this with a coin and get general sense of direction.
I can appreciate this watch but I don't think I'm interested in it. It feels like it's trying to be an Alpinist and the extra tool look makes it less of an all arounder than the Khaki auto and King.
I don’t get field watches at all. Yes the history but I put my money on proper Lundhags boots and back pack and modern Fjällräven field clothes. The watch is a G-shock. Basta
G-shock every time 👍👍
for 1000 euros you have a printed dial and a compass bezel not even ceramic with not purpose in modern world! Tissot actually uses a mix of materials is not plastic and cost under 1000 dollars! Also, gives more features than Hamilton!
It's a Khaki field watch with a useless bezel. No big deal here folks.
Thesis: the compass bezel is the least used/useful type of bezel on the market.
I have trouble thinking of one used less 😃😃
I'm not a fan of Hamilton and will not buy it. A few years ago I purchased the Hamilton Khaki Field from the Hodinkee website. Within 2 weeks of wear the crown snapped off like a toothpick. No crown guards on a non screw in big crown manual wind watch equals trouble. I tried to get money back from Hodinkee but they referred me back to the Hamilton Warranty service centre. When I contacted them they were very unhelpful. They had a back log of repairs (not a good sign) and wanted 6 weeks to inspect the watch to establish quality control. I was frustrated and took the watch to my independent watchmaker who replaced the crown stem for $30. My watchmaker said the stem had corroded. Total rubbish watch components. I sold it.
I've heard some wild stories about hamilton QC - including fogging up glass and whatnot. The watches though do look good and have never had the issues myself 😃😃
HOW CAN YOU REVIEW A WATCH THAT YOU DONT HAVE??????
I GO DOWN TO THE AD AND WEAR IT!!!!!!!!
IT’S ALMOST LIKE THE COMPANIES HAVE THESE PURPOSE BUILT DISPLAYS WHERE YOU CAN TRY THE WATCHES OUT BEFORE YOU CHOOSE TO BUY!
You are too charitable in your analysis. I think the new designs are a major step backwards. They are schizophrenic. They abandoned a cohesive and classic design language and instead you get something that looks like it's trying to be a souped up Seiko 5 but instead of souped up it looks watered down. The compass bezel is, as you noted, perfectly useless and therefore superfluous, which from a functionalist design perspective is simply unforgivable. To me these new Khakis fall into the same category of the re-designed Air King. They tried to fix something that wasn't broken and in the process destroyed an iconic design.
Compass bezel is gimmicky and a poor design choice.
It's pretty though.... 😃😃