I've got 15 years and 20,000 miles on a TCI kit on a 65 wagon. Initial cost was cheaper than small block specific swap pieces plus the cost of stock suspension/steering/brake rebuild. Drives nice, has held up well.
I like your style man. I’m looking to do a ‘66-‘67 nova myself as well. Thanks for the run through on this. I suppose it would be the same if I bought a little more expensive kit except that would probably come with instructions.😮 Thanks again and waiting for more. I wanna see this this beast roar to life. So for now I’ll just live vicariously through you.😊
Very cool. I hope you get started on your project soon. I’m hoping to finish building this car on the channel soon. I really want to drive it. Any time something comes with instructions that’s pretty cool lol. Thanks for watching.
The big bag of gussets and spacers come with the lower control arms so you can get rid of the strut rods. I installed one of the CPP front end kits, the rods the run from top of firewall down to the frame, well they suck because the end joints get worn out quick and rattle when u hit a pot hole
@@americannostalgiagarageno I actually sold it to a friend of mine and I got a 67 nova I’m working on right now, on it I went with a Heidts snout and some other brand rotors and control arms aka “China made”
Install lower control arm bolt back to front so that the rack isnt in the way later if you have to remove the bolt. The control arm sleeves and gussets are included in the universal tubular control arm kit for when that kit is used to convert a factory mustang ii to tubular control arms.
Luckily this kit was well though out enough we’re the lower control arm bolt can come out either direction. It’s just a threaded shaft with nuts on both ends. Thank you for your help.
Other issue i had with this kit is somehow it moved my engine forward almost an inch, and the right camber was too negative even without any adjustment shims at the arm. I had to buy adjustable upper arms to get it into spec
I had cbr lowers with manual drums and steering. The new manual rack and sicks with corvette master is a pretty gd improvement. Mainly in the engine bay servicability as well. I only have about 80kms on mine so far. I think the price is right. Still need to figure out trans crossmember as the subframe moved my engine forward. CPP can not explain why that happened and i havent pinpointed where the issue is yet either, but i do know the sheet metal lined up fine. I also cut the original tops off of the stock shock towers to use as hood hinge supports and fender support instead of buying them seperate
Okay good video. I've got a 66 that I'm thinking about the same kit. Yours has been the most useful video I've seen on it. Did you have to cut your springs. Thanks
Thank you. I’m glad to hear it helped you. Luckily I did not have to cut my springs. One thing I will say is that the ride height not being adjustable makes me want to swap out the coils for coil overs. So if you haven’t purchased your kit yet I would say you’d be better off with the coil over. Good luck with your build and thank you for watching.
Looks great. Did the wilwood kit come with any spacers? Sometimes those calipers need to be shimmed a little bit. Or just leave the brakes off and we can throw an anchor out of the trunk to stop.
If you’re going with the anchor you have to have a trunk monkey to make that work. I live in Oregon and this car dealership came up with these outrageous adds about trunk monkeys. They’re on you tube check ‘em out.
Looks like you used CPP clip but have not yet installed inner fenders? I just put in my CPP clip (66) and ready to put in the inner fender panels, but there are 4 bolts that are slightly longer with thick metal spacers, not sure what these are for just know from a forum they are for 66 and 67 only, any idea where?
I’m currently installing this same set up on my 67, my question is how was the ride height after all back together, coil spring just seems a bit tall, and was there spacer washers on your ball joints, and did you use them?
So I bought the drop spindle option and yes I used the ball joint spacers. I think if you didn’t then you make have issues with being able to get a ball joint stud tightened properly on the spindle. My ride height is perfect. I’m really happy with it. But I also have 18 inch wheels on the front.
@ what did you do about the shock body hitting the control arm. Having the same issue and unable to get the bottom bolt to align. Also did you have an issue with the supplied tie rods not fitting into the spindle?
@ are you trying to install the shock without the engine and trans in? Once there’s some weight in the frame the shock goes in easier, but you can also wrap a chain around the frame and your floor jack and then jack the lower control arm up a bit. And for the tie rods I didn’t have any issues. Is it possible that you’re trying to install the tie rod upside down? Meaning you’re going the wrong way with the taper of the stud?
What I ended up doing as keeping the caliper bracket bolted to the backside of the spindle. The caliper was a bit closer on the outer pad than it was on the inner pad but they are 4 piston calipers so the calipers will accommodate for the tolerances. As long as the pads fit in there loosely you’re ok. Thanks for watching.
I've seen stock nova`s converted over (disc brakes) and such. Was it worth the cost with this kit , and all of the extra parts your going to need to finish
Tough to say at the moment on the count of I’m not finished with the car and haven’t driven it yet. But I will say that this was pretty complete. Off the top of my head the only things I needed to complete this installation was a steering column but I could have cut the old steering shaft and welded a u joint on, and power steering pump, reservoir and lines. So not too much extra. This kit was cheaper than all the other I was able to find that were about the same design. I would say that I’m happy with it. I think it should perform nicely for the amount I paid. Thanks for watching.
@@americannostalgiagarage I’m watching now on my living room tv, done good Sunday entertainment man. I’ll look into it just bought a solid 63 nova and want to start the front end project before winter comes to Illinois 😂
@@Jmothatrucka thanks a lot, glad you’re enjoying the content. Comments like that are the best. I love the 63 great year. I’d love to build a 63 wagon for my old man and my uncle. That was their childhood car. I’d love to hear about the build when you get started. Nova guys gotta stick together. Haha. Winter in the Midwest has to be rough. I imagine it gets cold in Illinois.
Hahaha....I had the same bag of spacers left over aswell. That said I've done 3 different aftermarket front clips on my Novas and this is the worst. My 67 I did an Alston front clip and is duper nice, but pricey....I later did a Smith race craft on the 67 and put the Alston on a 66 ss.... did this ccp on my 63 as cruiser nova and would not recommend it.
The ball joints are at an odd angle and the greese boots are already cracking apart....I ordered there could overs and new lower a arms to see if I can get the ball joints to aligne a bit better. I had the same issue with the could spring touching my shock aswell....I called and the tech guy told me the springs need time to relax a little. Lol. Alston by far has been the best quality unit I've done.... I'm helping my buddy do a church boys next month on his 66 barn find.
Looks like a halfway decent kit. The "no instructions" or "bad instructions" is typical for CPP. I also presume you figured out the extra parts by now, but if not, it's because it a generic mustang ii control arm kit that can be added to cross members without provisions. So in short spare parts that don't apply for the front clip conversion. Regardless, of how it compares to the other kits out there, it will be worlds better handling and ride quality compared to the factory front clip.
You’re absolutely right. Big upgrade regardless. I was thinking about taking the extra parts and just welding them on in random places on the car just to throw people off hahaha. I’m excited to drive this thing soon. Thanks again for watching.
That’s awesome. Yes I did reuse my stock rad support. I was on the fence about replacing it but mine was in decent condition so I saved the money. Thanks for watching.
My opinion is the shocks don't fit because you have the lower left control arm on the right side. Just a wild guess. the log lower control arm bolt is metal to metal with the sub frame bad designs that is going to wear out fast. If you make it a daily driver on the street re-grease every 10,000 mi.???? It might help with sway bar link to tie rod clearance👍👍👍👍
I thought the same thing but the control arms were in the correct place. If I put them on the wrong sides the caster would be positive and it would drive crazy lol. Once the control arms were at ride height there was clearance between then and the shock body. Tighter than I’d like to see but none of that stuff should move. Thanks for watching!
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I've got 15 years and 20,000 miles on a TCI kit on a 65 wagon. Initial cost was cheaper than small block specific swap pieces plus the cost of stock suspension/steering/brake rebuild. Drives nice, has held up well.
That’s great and very cool ride. Tci makes great stuff. Glad to hear you’re getting your money out of that old hot rod. Thanks for watching.
@@americannostalgiagarage It's my everyday car. 700R4 & 3.08 gears, loves the interstate.
@@paulhare662wow that’s great. A 65 wagon as a daily driver is legendary. Very cool.
I like your style man. I’m looking to do a ‘66-‘67 nova myself as well. Thanks for the run through on this. I suppose it would be the same if I bought a little more expensive kit except that would probably come with instructions.😮 Thanks again and waiting for more. I wanna see this this beast roar to life. So for now I’ll just live vicariously through you.😊
Very cool. I hope you get started on your project soon. I’m hoping to finish building this car on the channel soon. I really want to drive it. Any time something comes with instructions that’s pretty cool lol. Thanks for watching.
Great video im glad i found your channel thanks for the video.
Thanks rich, glad you found the channel, glad you liked the video, I hope it helped. Thanks for watching!
The big bag of gussets and spacers come with the lower control arms so you can get rid of the strut rods. I installed one of the CPP front end kits, the rods the run from top of firewall down to the frame, well they suck because the end joints get worn out quick and rattle when u hit a pot hole
Ahh. I gotcha. Thank you for the heads up. What did you end up doing just replace the heim joints every once in a while?
@@americannostalgiagarageno I actually sold it to a friend of mine and I got a 67 nova I’m working on right now, on it I went with a Heidts snout and some other brand rotors and control arms aka “China made”
You did a good job, liked the video…
Thank you very much and thank you for watching.
If your tie rod hits that sway bar, you sir are airborne…
Well we don’t want that, on second thought it sounds fun.
Those lower control arms fit multiple kits, so they come with gussets, you bought their crossmember so the gussets were pre installed,
Thank you for the information. It was tough without instructions but manageable.
Install lower control arm bolt back to front so that the rack isnt in the way later if you have to remove the bolt. The control arm sleeves and gussets are included in the universal tubular control arm kit for when that kit is used to convert a factory mustang ii to tubular control arms.
Luckily this kit was well though out enough we’re the lower control arm bolt can come out either direction. It’s just a threaded shaft with nuts on both ends. Thank you for your help.
Other issue i had with this kit is somehow it moved my engine forward almost an inch, and the right camber was too negative even without any adjustment shims at the arm. I had to buy adjustable upper arms to get it into spec
How do you like the kit overall? Did it improve the car a lot?
I had cbr lowers with manual drums and steering. The new manual rack and sicks with corvette master is a pretty gd improvement. Mainly in the engine bay servicability as well. I only have about 80kms on mine so far. I think the price is right. Still need to figure out trans crossmember as the subframe moved my engine forward. CPP can not explain why that happened and i havent pinpointed where the issue is yet either, but i do know the sheet metal lined up fine. I also cut the original tops off of the stock shock towers to use as hood hinge supports and fender support instead of buying them seperate
Discs*
The kit has studs for the inside mounting holes, not missing bolts
Hmm I didn’t see any studs there. Thank you for the info though.
Interesting. Mine came with long bolts with a head on them.
I had same problem. I used a regular bolt for that spot and then found the threaded studs at the end. Weird
Yeah I just went out and bought some good hardware to replace what was missing. Just used regular bolts
Okay good video. I've got a 66 that I'm thinking about the same kit. Yours has been the most useful video I've seen on it. Did you have to cut your springs. Thanks
Thank you. I’m glad to hear it helped you. Luckily I did not have to cut my springs. One thing I will say is that the ride height not being adjustable makes me want to swap out the coils for coil overs. So if you haven’t purchased your kit yet I would say you’d be better off with the coil over. Good luck with your build and thank you for watching.
Looks great. Did the wilwood kit come with any spacers? Sometimes those calipers need to be shimmed a little bit. Or just leave the brakes off and we can throw an anchor out of the trunk to stop.
I always carry an anchor for this purpose anyway.
If you’re going with the anchor you have to have a trunk monkey to make that work. I live in Oregon and this car dealership came up with these outrageous adds about trunk monkeys. They’re on you tube check ‘em out.
Looks like you used CPP clip but have not yet installed inner fenders? I just put in my CPP clip (66) and ready to put in the inner fender panels, but there are 4 bolts that are slightly longer with thick metal spacers, not sure what these are for just know from a forum they are for 66 and 67 only, any idea where?
I bought the kit with the inner fenders by have not yet installed them I wish I could offer some help I’m just not sure. Thanks for watching
I’m currently installing this same set up on my 67, my question is how was the ride height after all back together, coil spring just seems a bit tall, and was there spacer washers on your ball joints, and did you use them?
So I bought the drop spindle option and yes I used the ball joint spacers. I think if you didn’t then you make have issues with being able to get a ball joint stud tightened properly on the spindle. My ride height is perfect. I’m really happy with it. But I also have 18 inch wheels on the front.
@@americannostalgiagarage ok good to know, I chose the drop spindles as well
@ great. It will probably be right where you want it then. The drop spindles give it a nice aggressive stance.
@ what did you do about the shock body hitting the control arm. Having the same issue and unable to get the bottom bolt to align. Also did you have an issue with the supplied tie rods not fitting into the spindle?
@ are you trying to install the shock without the engine and trans in? Once there’s some weight in the frame the shock goes in easier, but you can also wrap a chain around the frame and your floor jack and then jack the lower control arm up a bit. And for the tie rods I didn’t have any issues. Is it possible that you’re trying to install the tie rod upside down? Meaning you’re going the wrong way with the taper of the stud?
What did you do about the calipers/brake shoes being so far apart?
What I ended up doing as keeping the caliper bracket bolted to the backside of the spindle. The caliper was a bit closer on the outer pad than it was on the inner pad but they are 4 piston calipers so the calipers will accommodate for the tolerances. As long as the pads fit in there loosely you’re ok. Thanks for watching.
I've seen stock nova`s converted over (disc brakes) and such.
Was it worth the cost with this kit , and all of the extra parts your going to need to finish
Tough to say at the moment on the count of I’m not finished with the car and haven’t driven it yet. But I will say that this was pretty complete. Off the top of my head the only things I needed to complete this installation was a steering column but I could have cut the old steering shaft and welded a u joint on, and power steering pump, reservoir and lines. So not too much extra. This kit was cheaper than all the other I was able to find that were about the same design. I would say that I’m happy with it. I think it should perform nicely for the amount I paid. Thanks for watching.
Would this kit fit a 63 nova ll
The kit I installed here is for 66-67 only but they do make a pretty much identical kit for the 62-65 Chevy nova. Thanks for watching.
@@americannostalgiagarage I’m watching now on my living room tv, done good Sunday entertainment man. I’ll look into it just bought a solid 63 nova and want to start the front end project before winter comes to Illinois 😂
@@Jmothatrucka thanks a lot, glad you’re enjoying the content. Comments like that are the best. I love the 63 great year. I’d love to build a 63 wagon for my old man and my uncle. That was their childhood car. I’d love to hear about the build when you get started. Nova guys gotta stick together. Haha. Winter in the Midwest has to be rough. I imagine it gets cold in Illinois.
Hahaha....I had the same bag of spacers left over aswell. That said I've done 3 different aftermarket front clips on my Novas and this is the worst. My 67 I did an Alston front clip and is duper nice, but pricey....I later did a Smith race craft on the 67 and put the Alston on a 66 ss.... did this ccp on my 63 as cruiser nova and would not recommend it.
Oh boy. Well I’m invested now. What would you say are the biggest differences/drawbacks?
The ball joints are at an odd angle and the greese boots are already cracking apart....I ordered there could overs and new lower a arms to see if I can get the ball joints to aligne a bit better. I had the same issue with the could spring touching my shock aswell....I called and the tech guy told me the springs need time to relax a little. Lol. Alston by far has been the best quality unit I've done.... I'm helping my buddy do a church boys next month on his 66 barn find.
@@Zr1Destroyer will this be your first with Church Boy Racing? I am thinking of going with their front suspension kit.
Looks like a halfway decent kit. The "no instructions" or "bad instructions" is typical for CPP. I also presume you figured out the extra parts by now, but if not, it's because it a generic mustang ii control arm kit that can be added to cross members without provisions. So in short spare parts that don't apply for the front clip conversion.
Regardless, of how it compares to the other kits out there, it will be worlds better handling and ride quality compared to the factory front clip.
You’re absolutely right. Big upgrade regardless. I was thinking about taking the extra parts and just welding them on in random places on the car just to throw people off hahaha. I’m excited to drive this thing soon. Thanks again for watching.
That axle grease will make you crap your guts out, lol.
That’s weird. After the video I ate the whole tub. Even cracked open another tub for seconds. And I felt fine. Hahaha just kidding
Putting checkered racing clip in my 66 now , did you reuse rad support or just replace it?
That’s awesome. Yes I did reuse my stock rad support. I was on the fence about replacing it but mine was in decent condition so I saved the money. Thanks for watching.
Cop has the instructions right here on RUclips..
Good old RUclips. I should have searched it here. Thank you.
Don’t think this is the one for me .
Thank you for watching either way.
First thing you need to do is clean that garage so you have some room
You ain’t kidding. I’m a top notch procrastinator. Thanks for watching.
My opinion is the shocks don't fit because you have the lower left control arm on the right side. Just a wild guess. the log lower control arm bolt is metal to metal with the sub frame bad designs that is going to wear out fast. If you make it a daily driver on the street re-grease every 10,000 mi.???? It might help with sway bar link to tie rod clearance👍👍👍👍
I thought the same thing but the control arms were in the correct place. If I put them on the wrong sides the caster would be positive and it would drive crazy lol. Once the control arms were at ride height there was clearance between then and the shock body. Tighter than I’d like to see but none of that stuff should move. Thanks for watching!