Hi there, just a 1977 2840 from the estate of the original owner appears to be in great shape, clean and straight. He was a gentleman farmer, his daughter said that the tractor had a very easy life. Mostly making hay and mowing pasture and airstrip for their Cessna. However the transmission light comes on. The transmission/clutches were overhauled 300hours ago but tractor did sit unused for a few years. I will be checking everything you mentioned and changing fluid and filter. Thank you, can't wait to get her out cutting/baling hay this summer.
Have one, its been a great tractor for me , 16,000 hours on her. Shes had major work done on her at 13,000 hours , now to great condition, nice video, think i one time or another did some of that stuff.
Just saw this. Great explanation of the process of diagnosing the problem. I have a 2840, and my problem is leaking around the load bars on the lift arms. Any hints? The JD seals don't seem to work.
@@vintagediesel-1 It's in the rod at the bottom. The load sensing shaft the lift arms pivot on. I have replaced the seals in the outer housings that bolt on the rear, but still have leaks. The lift itself works fine. I appreciate your response!
@@vintagediesel-1 I have a great dealership for getting parts. I was wondering if you had a "hack" that does it better. Experience beats most service books, and I have the service book. I don't like the term hack, I believe "aftermarket experience" is much better. 👍
hi, I'm a farmer in Kentucky. I have a 3130 the same as the 2840, but made in Germany. after it warms up I lose the PTO and power steering and the 3 point hitch. I went through everything you just did and still the same. any help is appreciated
Begin at the bypass valve. If it isn't bypassing the bypass valve the problem will require you to split it. Inside are tubes and at each end of the tubes are o-rings. If the bypass valve isn't bypassing then it is bypassing internally . Check each tube and replace the o-rings. Hope that helps you and thanks for watching.
@@vintagediesel-1 You are talking about the tubes that feed the internal transmission charge pump. I am having similar problems with my JD 2355 farm tractor, I have changed the high-pressure pump several times, ( not cheap, by the way) and have finally concluded that my charge-pump is not feeding my high-pressure pump. I have checked my filter by-pass valve, and cleaned my screen, and changed my oil filter several times, and checked my pressure regulating valve that is in the line after the charge pump. That valve was difficult to find for a novice. It is only a ball with a spring keeping pressure on it. I did find some debris in the pressure regulating valve ( the steering pressure regulating valve that ensures priority pressure to the steering) , but it did not affect its operation, and it has not fixed my problem. I will disconnect the hose from the charge pump and look for pressure and flow. If I do not find it there, then I will have to split my machine and look at the supply for the charge pump. Probably the O-Rings are the culprit like you say. It used to work well until the oil heated up, then it stopped working until sitting overnight to cool back down again.
My name is William, the JD 5100e I operate every day is constantly overheating the hydraulic fluid, changed the filter, screen, and fluid, still OHing, any suggestions
That unit uses the oil cooler built onto the radiator. Check it for obstruction and possibly blow it out with air. Did you find any source of debris or metal in the oil when you changed fluids? The long tubed screen drivers side on the bottom of the differential is notorious for clogging. Make sure it's clean and clear also. Thanks for watching, I sure hope it helps you. Let's us all know how it turns out.
@@vintagediesel-1 Man I looked for that long tube screen like u said, and can't find it, changed the one in the back under the pto, is there any way you can show me exactly where its at?
@@williamvuinovich7490 It's possible the unit only has the below the pto screen. Have you checked the oil cooler for internal flow? It possibly could be obstructed keep the fluid from reaching the cooler.
Hi there, just a 1977 2840 from the estate of the original owner appears to be in great shape, clean and straight. He was a gentleman farmer, his daughter said that the tractor had a very easy life. Mostly making hay and mowing pasture and airstrip for their Cessna. However the transmission light comes on. The transmission/clutches were overhauled 300hours ago but tractor did sit unused for a few years. I will be checking everything you mentioned and changing fluid and filter. Thank you, can't wait to get her out cutting/baling hay this summer.
Great story by the way , so glad you shared. Keep us updated as I'm sure others will enjoy it also. Thanks so much for watching.
...☕🇺🇸💜nk you , fectly king ff and ght nsmission . ack together , p verything ed n stuck . g ßtucon out the on re ou
@@steveherinckx6541 I''m sorry I can't quite understand the message.
Have one, its been a great tractor for me , 16,000 hours on her. Shes had major work done on her at 13,000 hours , now to great condition, nice video, think i one time or another did some of that stuff.
They are great. Thanks for watching
Just saw this. Great explanation of the process of diagnosing the problem. I have a 2840, and my problem is leaking around the load bars on the lift arms. Any hints? The JD seals don't seem to work.
I usually take apart the cylinders and have my local hydraulic hose maker match up the seals for a repack. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@vintagediesel-1 It's in the rod at the bottom. The load sensing shaft the lift arms pivot on. I have replaced the seals in the outer housings that bolt on the rear, but still have leaks. The lift itself works fine. I appreciate your response!
@@MorganOtt-ne1qj I'll look it up and see if I can find a part number for you.
@@vintagediesel-1 I have a great dealership for getting parts. I was wondering if you had a "hack" that does it better. Experience beats most service books, and I have the service book. I don't like the term hack, I believe "aftermarket experience" is much better. 👍
How do you get that housing with the filter lined up so easy ? Same 2840 makes me wanna hit myself with a hammer !
Luck lol. Thanks for watching
I got a 2840 the the power steering don't the don't work I need some info on it
Sorry the loader don't workallso
I bought a 4620 in a auction sale with the same issue, it was completely out of oil.
Seems to be common. Thanks for watching.
hi, I'm a farmer in Kentucky. I have a 3130 the same as the 2840, but made in Germany. after it warms up I lose the PTO and power steering and the 3 point hitch. I went through everything you just did and still the same. any help is appreciated
Begin at the bypass valve. If it isn't bypassing the bypass valve the problem will require you to split it. Inside are tubes and at each end of the tubes are o-rings. If the bypass valve isn't bypassing then it is bypassing internally . Check each tube and replace the o-rings. Hope that helps you and thanks for watching.
@@vintagediesel-1 You are talking about the tubes that feed the internal transmission charge pump. I am having similar problems with my JD 2355 farm tractor, I have changed the high-pressure pump several times, ( not cheap, by the way) and have finally concluded that my charge-pump is not feeding my high-pressure pump. I have checked my filter by-pass valve, and cleaned my screen, and changed my oil filter several times, and checked my pressure regulating valve that is in the line after the charge pump. That valve was difficult to find for a novice. It is only a ball with a spring keeping pressure on it. I did find some debris in the pressure regulating valve ( the steering pressure regulating valve that ensures priority pressure to the steering) , but it did not affect its operation, and it has not fixed my problem. I will disconnect the hose from the charge pump and look for pressure and flow. If I do not find it there, then I will have to split my machine and look at the supply for the charge pump. Probably the O-Rings are the culprit like you say. It used to work well until the oil heated up, then it stopped working until sitting overnight to cool back down again.
@@ralphking5428 Yessir I would suspect the o-rings. Thanks for watching.
My name is William, the JD 5100e I operate every day is constantly overheating the hydraulic fluid, changed the filter, screen, and fluid, still OHing, any suggestions
That unit uses the oil cooler built onto the radiator. Check it for obstruction and possibly blow it out with air. Did you find any source of debris or metal in the oil when you changed fluids? The long tubed screen drivers side on the bottom of the differential is notorious for clogging. Make sure it's clean and clear also. Thanks for watching, I sure hope it helps you. Let's us all know how it turns out.
I will, found a lot of metal on the drain plug
@@vintagediesel-1 Man I looked for that long tube screen like u said, and can't find it, changed the one in the back under the pto, is there any way you can show me exactly where its at?
@@williamvuinovich7490 It's possible the unit only has the below the pto screen. Have you checked the oil cooler for internal flow? It possibly could be obstructed keep the fluid from reaching the cooler.
@@vintagediesel-1 not yet, I will and let u know