Leaking Hydraulic Cylinder - Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2021
- How to fix a severely leaking hydraulic cylinder. Shown is the bucket ram on a 60 John Deere loader, mounted on a John Deere 670 compact tractor.
Seal kit - AM118390
Fowler Dial Indicator with flexible base -
www.fowlerprecision.com/Produ... 
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I am no expert, quite the opposite. My hydraulic shop suggested heating up a cup of water, placing the seals in the water for 10-15 mins prior to install. Worked well on my very first hydrulic cylinder repair.
Thats a good tip. Seems like solid advice, it should soften the seal to help the install.
Tip for installing the O-ring on the end of the rod. Wrap thin packing tape around the threads to keep the O-ring from getting damaged when you install it.
Great tip, thanks!
Great vid! When removing the sweeper and metal deal you just go under it with a screwdriver blade under it and twist. I've done a lot of them and it's the easiest way and doesn't damage the gland
I was waiting for you to damage that 4-600.00 gland. Lol
Thanks
Nice work! Will try my first package next week
Thanks
What is that clamping tool you used to hold the dial Guage?
That is the flexible arm that comes with the Fowler dial indicator...check the video description for the link.
Where did you get the torque specs for the nut? I have a 4300 with a 430 loader. I need to replace the seals, but I cant find the torque specs
If I remember correctly, It was on the seal kit instructions....sorry it's been a while since that repair!
I've got a 755, any chance I could get the tire sizes?
Originally turf tires, we updated to these ag type tires.
Rear tires - 31 x 15.5 - 15
Front tires - 23 x 8.50 - 12
If a rod has a black scratch down the length of the rod.. dies it need to be replaced ?
If it's a deep enough scratch it will not seal, and will probably leak right away after repacking
Okay,
Trying to disassemble a 34 ton Ram on a Swisher Log Splitter.
So plugging and capping the open ports and lines, I did...
Removed a round wire snap ring. Using a Pipe Clamp to pull on the splitter and base thus pulling out the ram...annnnd... it is held up at the end of the cylinder.
And you just slipped that thing out...jshh.
..
Without seeing what you have, it's hard to tell. Heres a couple of scenarios. Did you plug the fittings on the ram? If you did, it may be under a hydraulic lock....try unplugging the ports to the ram.
Or, if the ram moves freely and is stuck at the end, make sure it is designed to be disassembled that way...some rams have welded ends, and the ram comes out after the ends are cut...I've never seen your ram, hard to tell.
If its designed to be removed that way...If the ram moves freely, and it's stuck at the very end, try giving it a pull with a winch, come along, a tractor, etc. Sometimes, they can get stuck on the end of the barrell. A little gentle pursuasion helps greatly....
Best of luck.
When reinstalling the cylinder do you need to bleed the air out?
It bleeds by itself, just cycle the bucket back and forth a few times.
What’s the part number for the kit
AM118390
use a 3/8" chrome extension to roll the seal into place
Thanks, that's a good tip for next time
@@marktolman6037 I spent a summer working in a huge hydrolic shop and learned a lot in a short time frame so by the end of my summer job I knew as much as a few of the mechanics there
@@garybrady9531 that's a valuable experience....must have been a fun summer
@@marktolman6037 it was demanding since we built from scratch cylinders as well as rebuilt them from little wheeled tractors to mega jumbo log truck lifts but it wasn't all oil soaked clothes I learned to weld so I would do it all over
@@garybrady9531 sounds like a cool place to work!
That bucket has had a hard life.
It definitely has...owner is not easy on it
There is a tool to put that seal in a kidney shape.