Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I changed one set on my 430 loader thanks to you sharing your knowledge. I did learn that placing the removal ring requires more than just sticking it in there and that you can make a removal tool from a plastic cup.
Well if you ever get tired of farming you could open a tractor/truck repair shop. Absolutely amazing how much you and onelonely farmer know about repairing your equipment. Hats off to you both.,
+pintail102 I worked on equipment since I got out of high school and Wes is every bit as much of a mechanic as anyone. He knows his tractors. Thanks for watching!
The truth is there are lots of us with older equipment that do this on our farms we just don't all have time to film it. It's called being smart, when some dealers are charging $130.00 an hour to fix equipment that might only be worth $5000 or less and a day doesn't fix it. I used to repair a lot for others to as like Guy in WY I went to school for mechanic. For a lot of years I was full time. But returned home to the farm and fix part time for a couple real good local guys. Now a lot of older farmers are retiring, the parts are so expensive and young guys want new stuff. It's getting harder to make a living on fixing old equipment you don't need a computer for in some areas. when I'm farming here everybody else is to, so time not here is something I don't get done on top now my Dads retiring and i'm loosing my help.
Gday from Australia, Thanks for taking the time. It’s a huge help. About to replace seals on my 318D skid Steer. Mine is leaking between the cylinder body and the end cap. Wiper seal looks good, but will get a kit and replace all of course. I really appreciate it. All the very best to you and your fam. Cheers 👍🍻
It's about time someone made a video that shows the split ring being used so you can pull the rod out. Thank you. Doing a steering cylinder on a skidder tomorrow. First time.
Very good tutorial video! I have the two lift cylinders on my John Deere 318D skid steer that are weeping, not real badly just wet enough to attract dust. I will need to replace the seals one of these days but as long as there is no serious leaking I guess I will leave well enough alone for now. Thank you!
Nice job on the video. It was a great help on my first Cylinder rebuild on my JD 110 TLB. I downloaded the service manual from the JD website for the Piston nut torque
A guy I know who works in a hydraulic cylinder repair shop told me about it. The electrical tapes keeps the hose clamp from scaring the piston seal when compressing it back with the hose clamp.
This is great I have a jd 460 loader the two leveler bucket cylinders are allowing the bucket to tilt no matter running or not I'm hoping scoring and cylinders are in good shape. And all I need to do is replace the soft parts. To restore having less than 1500 hours on it but lots of lifting bales dirt exc. Things do wear I should be able to install these in a couple hours and have it back up a running . Great video.
Good job of packing that cylinder! We use to do a lot of cylinder packing , but before I retired from coal surface mines we went to the exchange program with Caterpillar. We could not stop equipment long enough to pack because of coal production. You did good on pushing the head out with the hydraulics! Thanks for sharing! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!
Thanks for the video, I have got to do the seals on our Quicke grapple cylinders, with all the cylinders I've done I have never worked on one like this they aren't real common in this area, I hope that tool is in their kits. I have one guy brings me all his machine cylinders now. He usually gets them done for less than $100 of time plus parts if they come apart easy. He really likes the fact when I do them they don't leak after a month like they do from the dealers most times, and they charge way more. ! It's like he says by the time some have been done twice thats 5 gallon of expensive oil gone to on top of time and parts. The last one the big shop messed up they didn't put back up rings in the outer gland groove with the o ring and got 1 internal gland seal in wrong. It cost $300 for the 2 sets of seals without shop time he wasn't real happy with them.
Oh yes he has, cylinders aren't the only thing I've worked on for him after another shop messed it up or couldn't figure it out right. But he still has this mad fascination with buying new or newer used equipment from some of them. He just trades some stuff before it starts needing fixing to often. The JD combine just left after 4 years on his place and less than 1500 threshing hours between him and the first owner !.
not always 2 kits per each cylinder, it depends. and sometimes, the two kits jd says works for a particular cylinder, are missing a part. good video. one recommendation i have though, butt the rod all the way out to the gland. will make it impossible to air lock the rod into the cylinder if you accidently push the gland too far in.
Here is a simple small trick when it comes to the seal ring. When you install one on the piston, once you get it straight, wrap it a couple times with electrical tape, take a hose clamp and tighten it down around the piston seal. Let it sit for a few seconds, then remove the hose clamp and electrical tape. This seats and recompresses the seal ring, making it easy to slide back into the ram cylinder, with less risk of damaging the seal ring.
"See, that wasn't so bad" I'm telling myself, who has never done something like that. Seems that's the way things are. If you know the tricks and how it's done, with the right tools, it's easy. Good job.
Ya see, now this is the type of how too video I like........we don’t have all the special tools and we’re at home....... if ya don’t have this, they try that......thanks
Nice video. You can also use a air compressor to push the rod out of the casing, makes it easier , I take mine off the tractor and put it on my work bench , then I put my air nozzle on the hole furthest away from where the rod goes out. if you hit the wrong hole it will just go back in. But use EXTREME CAUTION , because if your air compressor is pumped up to 120 that rod will shoot out like a missile. Maybe try a air pressure around 30 PSI and go from there and still be careful . I'm getting ready to do another one and I might screw some 4x4's to my bench to stop it from flying across my shop.
You would never get that particular cylinder apart with compressed air. It requires a LOT of force to get that snap ring past the little removal tool. I’ve tried just about every method imaginable. The only practical solution is to use the tractor’s hydraulics, snatch it out with a truck or tractor, or build a bench top jig to pull them out with a ram. It better be a powerful ram though. The last time I tried, my 10 ton ram wouldn’t do the job. I personally prefer snatching them with another tractor or use the tractor it is mounted to and a tree.
Does it come with buyer beware notice. Hay this back yard cylinder will blow out when you lease need it to. Like if you are next to it. Or a cow is under it.
John Deere cylinders are the only ones I have ever encountered that use snap rings. They can be difficult to work on. Every other cylinder I have rebuilt utilize end caps that screw on.
Worst design ever! I can see why they use it though. I bet they saved a ton of money by not having to cut threads or do any precision machining. Cut one groove in the bore, chamfer the end, and you’re done. They’ve probably got $100 or less invested in the manufacturing of those cylinders. Then they can paint it green and sell it to us poor saps for several times the price. They really aren’t too bad to rebuild, once you get the hang of it. Having to compress and install that damned snap ring is my least favorite part of the process. I also skip the hydraulic oil money shot and pull the rod out with a truck/tractor/tree or any other immovable object. I despise having to clean up oil...
If a guy doesn't have a big impact, 3 squawks or cracks of the nut/bolt head against it's clamping surface, with a 3/4 or 1" drive socket set and T bar. Helped with a 5 ft cheater pipe and big guy on the end works good for certain things to L.O.L.
Failing all of that highly technical methodology I've found that the" Pulling until you have reached three grunts and a fart" system is equally effective.
John Deere quoted me 400 dollars for 2 cylinders. then I tried buying them from part department they wanted 200 for 2 seal kits. I went on line and found them 18 dollars plus shipping.
@@scottpearson6097 Yeah it just depends on whats wrong with it. I just took one to a hyd shop they said 130 to replace the seals then turns out it had other problems. I rebuilt 2 john deere cylinders and never again. I will be happy to pay but not to John Deere.
We had a ram snap so we need to disassemble the cylinder to replace it. I was able to get the outer snap ring off but when I try to knock the end of the cylinder back inside, it's acting like it's seized. We used a big sledge hammer and a piece of pipe slid over the ram and pressing against the end cap but no dice. Is that what happened with your right hand cylinder that you had to replace entirely? Thanks!
Yes, it is. If I had it to do over I would extend that Ram all the way out and cut the base off of the cylinder body. Push the Ram in and disassemble the piston, pull the rod out through the cap. That way you can reuse the rod and piston, just buy a new body, end cap and seal kit. With your Ram being broken though, I’d just buy a new cylinder. Not sure what loader model you have but the one I had to get was close to $600 US
Help! I am rebuilding a 520 lift cylinder and I was wondering if the first blue bore seal (wiper seal?) you put on, on the outer facing end of the gland--does the groove face in and lip face out or vice versa? Also I have a hard plastic type seal that came with the bore kit. It has a rybber-like ring on it that will be impossible to fit inside the bore--i have no idea where to put it. Is it possible that it is extra? My seals were so crumbled that I had no way to use them as a guide on how to mount the new seals. Your video has been a life saver!
From what I was viewing here - The jump cuts in ur video were a little jumpy. Also, u cut some of the good stuff :-O I wanted to see (more of) you making a royal pigsty of a mess when using the hydraulic pressure to release the piston. Is there a cap or cover missing from the right shaft at the bottom near the attachment plate? Cosmetic difference only between the replacement vs. repaired? Fall is rapidly approaching to the work load is upon you. Yeehaw!
+Ji Fi-01 it's tough to decide what to cut out. I try to keep things moving fast enough to be interesting, but maybe I'm taking out to much? Only differences in cylinders are the original had the fittings on the front and the new one had them on the side.
Maybe u sliced too much. Just letting you know I enjoy the messy in-process stuff as well. I can always fast-forward if I need the abridged version. :-) I certainly don't want any of the thrilling farming activities to land on the barnyard floor. Don't let me teasing worry you (too much, just thoughts). You've got bails to make & move and tractors to fix & sell. Your farming time clock is tickin in overdrive.
Probably a good tutorial video, but not a good job of editing the content. Small leaps from one step to another, and a giant leap at 11:11. In total, good video or at least better than nothing.
Авто/Мото
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I changed one set on my 430 loader thanks to you sharing your knowledge.
I did learn that placing the removal ring requires more than just sticking it in there and that you can make a removal tool from a plastic cup.
⁸
Well if you ever get tired of farming you could open a tractor/truck repair shop. Absolutely amazing how much you and onelonely farmer know about repairing your equipment. Hats off to you both.,
+pintail102 I worked on equipment since I got out of high school and Wes is every bit as much of a mechanic as anyone. He knows his tractors. Thanks for watching!
The truth is there are lots of us with older equipment that do this on our farms we just don't all have time to film it. It's called being smart, when some dealers are charging $130.00 an hour to fix equipment that might only be worth $5000 or less and a day doesn't fix it. I used to repair a lot for others to as like Guy in WY I went to school for mechanic. For a lot of years I was full time. But returned home to the farm and fix part time for a couple real good local guys. Now a lot of older farmers are retiring, the parts are so expensive and young guys want new stuff. It's getting harder to make a living on fixing old equipment you don't need a computer for in some areas. when I'm farming here everybody else is to, so time not here is something I don't get done on top now my Dads retiring and i'm loosing my help.
this is what farming is about.....learn to do everything yourself. Become a fabricator, welder, mechanic......the list goes on and on
Gday from Australia,
Thanks for taking the time. It’s a huge help. About to replace seals on my 318D skid Steer. Mine is leaking between the cylinder body and the end cap. Wiper seal looks good, but will get a kit and replace all of course.
I really appreciate it. All the very best to you and your fam.
Cheers 👍🍻
It's about time someone made a video that shows the split ring being used so you can pull the rod out. Thank you. Doing a steering cylinder on a skidder tomorrow. First time.
Best of luck! Not all cylinders will need the little split ring, but it’s critical for the ones that do.
Very good tutorial video! I have the two lift cylinders on my John Deere 318D skid steer that are weeping, not real badly just wet enough to attract dust. I will need to replace the seals one of these days but as long as there is no serious leaking I guess I will leave well enough alone for now. Thank you!
Nice job on the video. It was a great help on my first Cylinder rebuild on my JD 110 TLB.
I downloaded the service manual from the JD website for the Piston nut torque
This is the type of vid that I like very help full. Good job
A guy I know who works in a hydraulic cylinder repair shop told me about it. The electrical tapes keeps the hose clamp from scaring the piston seal when compressing it back with the hose clamp.
You made it look simple. Great informative video , Thanks
This is great I have a jd 460 loader the two leveler bucket cylinders are allowing the bucket to tilt no matter running or not I'm hoping scoring and cylinders are in good shape. And all I need to do is replace the soft parts. To restore having less than 1500 hours on it but lots of lifting bales dirt exc. Things do wear I should be able to install these in a couple hours and have it back up a running . Great video.
Nicely done, Blake. More later!
Good job. I've done a few of those in my lifetime.
I going replace seals kit on my 1700 mustang ...I hope it's be same process. Thank you for the video.
Good job of packing that cylinder! We use to do a lot of cylinder packing , but before I retired from coal surface mines we went to the exchange program with Caterpillar. We could not stop equipment long enough to pack because of coal production. You did good on pushing the head out with the hydraulics! Thanks for sharing! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!
+Ray Eddy thank you Ray!
Boiling them is good advice. I use to tear some shit up trying to get them together before softening them up.
Another excellent video, thanks
+Jan Kotze thanks Jan!
Thanks I could not figure out how to remove the gland from the curl cylinder on my John Deere 540 loader now it's fixed for the time being
Very interesting!!
Thank you so much Sir. This will help me getting back in the field :)
That was a smart way to get the app out with hydraulic pressure. I’m going to use it on mine tomorrow 5/11/22.
Thanks, real helpful.
Great job
wow, i had no idea that the inside of the cylinder looks so.. empty... thanks for the video! :)
+SaoPauloNX not much to it! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video, I have got to do the seals on our Quicke grapple cylinders, with all the cylinders I've done I have never worked on one like this they aren't real common in this area, I hope that tool is in their kits. I have one guy brings me all his machine cylinders now. He usually gets them done for less than $100 of time plus parts if they come apart easy.
He really likes the fact when I do them they don't leak after a month like they do from the dealers most times, and they charge way more. ! It's like he says by the time some have been done twice thats 5 gallon of expensive oil gone to on top of time and parts. The last one the big shop messed up they didn't put back up rings in the outer gland groove with the o ring and got 1 internal gland seal in wrong. It cost $300 for the 2 sets of seals without shop time he wasn't real happy with them.
+super6954 yikes, sounds like he's had some real trouble.
Oh yes he has, cylinders aren't the only thing I've worked on for him after another shop messed it up or couldn't figure it out right. But he still has this mad fascination with buying new or newer used equipment from some of them. He just trades some stuff before it starts needing fixing to often. The JD combine just left after 4 years on his place and less than 1500 threshing hours between him and the first owner !.
Ty sir I appreciate video trying to figure out the 850 s problem
not always 2 kits per each cylinder, it depends. and sometimes, the two kits jd says works for a particular cylinder, are missing a part. good video. one recommendation i have though, butt the rod all the way out to the gland. will make it impossible to air lock the rod into the cylinder if you accidently push the gland too far in.
thank you Sir!
Here is a simple small trick when it comes to the seal ring. When you install one on the piston, once you get it straight, wrap it a couple times with electrical tape, take a hose clamp and tighten it down around the piston seal. Let it sit for a few seconds, then remove the hose clamp and electrical tape. This seats and recompresses the seal ring, making it easy to slide back into the ram cylinder, with less risk of damaging the seal ring.
+robert281979 never heard that before but I'm willing to try it. Thanks!
"See, that wasn't so bad" I'm telling myself, who has never done something like that. Seems that's the way things are. If you know the tricks and how it's done, with the right tools, it's easy. Good job.
Thanks Levi. If I can do this stuff, anyone can.
Great video I'm.a new subscriber I find your videos very informative
+kory league thanks!
Nice ty
I recommend a 45 degree angle with knuckles down for max distance
Ya see, now this is the type of how too video I like........we don’t have all the special tools and we’re at home....... if ya don’t have this, they try that......thanks
Nice video. You can also use a air compressor to push the rod out of the casing, makes it easier , I take mine off the tractor and put it on my work bench , then I put my air nozzle on the hole furthest away from where the rod goes out. if you hit the wrong hole it will just go back in. But use EXTREME CAUTION , because if your air compressor is pumped up to 120 that rod will shoot out like a missile. Maybe try a air pressure around 30 PSI and go from there and still be careful . I'm getting ready to do another one and I might screw some 4x4's to my bench to stop it from flying across my shop.
You would never get that particular cylinder apart with compressed air. It requires a LOT of force to get that snap ring past the little removal tool. I’ve tried just about every method imaginable. The only practical solution is to use the tractor’s hydraulics, snatch it out with a truck or tractor, or build a bench top jig to pull them out with a ram. It better be a powerful ram though. The last time I tried, my 10 ton ram wouldn’t do the job. I personally prefer snatching them with another tractor or use the tractor it is mounted to and a tree.
nice
Great video. I've been wanting to learn how to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder.
+Christian Reeves nothing to it!
Symptoms were leaky? Was it effecting performance from what you noticed?
Excellent video sir. Makes a job that many would send out for seem very manageable. You’re a gentleman and a scholar. Take care.
Sincerely,
Dick Head
Does it come with buyer beware notice. Hay this back yard cylinder will blow out when you lease need it to. Like if you are next to it. Or a cow is under it.
On the tool used to remove the shaft do the ends of the tool have to meet up together?
I am curious, what did the new cylinder cost? Good video and have had cylinders worked on by someone else but haven't done it myself.
+feelnrite the new cylinder was around $650.
@@GuyinWY now they are $853.00.
John Deere cylinders are the only ones I have ever encountered that use snap rings. They can be difficult to work on. Every other cylinder I have rebuilt utilize end caps that screw on.
Worst design ever! I can see why they use it though. I bet they saved a ton of money by not having to cut threads or do any precision machining. Cut one groove in the bore, chamfer the end, and you’re done. They’ve probably got $100 or less invested in the manufacturing of those cylinders. Then they can paint it green and sell it to us poor saps for several times the price. They really aren’t too bad to rebuild, once you get the hang of it. Having to compress and install that damned snap ring is my least favorite part of the process. I also skip the hydraulic oil money shot and pull the rod out with a truck/tractor/tree or any other immovable object. I despise having to clean up oil...
Heard that
Yup. The good ole 3 ugga duggas with the impact is the proper torque 👍🏻
+Drew w works for lug nuts on semi trucks too. :)
If a guy doesn't have a big impact, 3 squawks or cracks of the nut/bolt head against it's clamping surface, with a 3/4 or 1" drive socket set and T bar. Helped with a 5 ft cheater pipe and big guy on the end works good for certain things to L.O.L.
Failing all of that highly technical methodology I've found that the" Pulling until you have reached three grunts and a fart" system is equally effective.
How much you want for the tractor. I live in PA and would drive there depending on the price. Looks like a nice little tractor.
+C&S Gaming it's a solid machine, sold it earlier today.
and the wind wasn't blowing for once !
+Banjo Benson for a few minutes anyway. :)
I said lock ring about a dozen times while you had it in the vise,.
I was saying to but he didn't here me. LOL
JD tractor, Jeep grill on the wall and Benz in the garage. interesting
I HATE those sealing rings too. How much you want for the 5320?
+Gary Ford Jr. I'm asking $19,000
Great video bro. Amazing what a shop will charge for that service.
John Deere quoted me 400 dollars for 2 cylinders. then I tried buying them from part department they wanted 200 for 2 seal kits. I went on line and found them 18 dollars plus shipping.
last year it cost me $250 for one cylinder from a cylinder shop
@@scottpearson6097 Yeah it just depends on whats wrong with it. I just took one to a hyd shop they said 130 to replace the seals then turns out it had other problems. I rebuilt 2 john deere cylinders and never again. I will be happy to pay but not to John Deere.
Stupid pays double. Triple is need tomorrow.
@@jerryday2851 Yup.
What were the two parts kits you needed to have? I'm working on a 146 loader
We had a ram snap so we need to disassemble the cylinder to replace it.
I was able to get the outer snap ring off but when I try to knock the end of the cylinder back inside, it's acting like it's seized. We used a big sledge hammer and a piece of pipe slid over the ram and pressing against the end cap but no dice.
Is that what happened with your right hand cylinder that you had to replace entirely?
Thanks!
Yes, it is. If I had it to do over I would extend that Ram all the way out and cut the base off of the cylinder body. Push the Ram in and disassemble the piston, pull the rod out through the cap. That way you can reuse the rod and piston, just buy a new body, end cap and seal kit. With your Ram being broken though, I’d just buy a new cylinder. Not sure what loader model you have but the one I had to get was close to $600 US
That makes sense. Thanks!
It's a 521. Where did you order the parts?
Good job!!
Help! I am rebuilding a 520 lift cylinder and I was wondering if the first blue bore seal (wiper seal?) you put on, on the outer facing end of the gland--does the groove face in and lip face out or vice versa?
Also I have a hard plastic type seal that came with the bore kit. It has a rybber-like ring on it that will be impossible to fit inside the bore--i have no idea where to put it. Is it possible that it is extra?
My seals were so crumbled that I had no way to use them as a guide on how to mount the new seals. Your video has been a life saver!
Probably too late, but for future reference the inner seals face lip in (to keep the oil in) and the outer seal faces lip out (to keep dirt out).
I figure in a few day you'll be getting a "Deere Johnny" letter/notice from the factory folks !!
S
How much are you asking for the 5320
+Eileen Smith it was $19k but it sold this morning.
How much did it cost
Our cylinder is leaking and our tractor is a jd 5205 with a 521 loader on it
How much are you selling the 5320 for?
+Fenrisúlfr Hródvitnir I'm asking $19,000.
From what I was viewing here - The jump cuts in ur video were a little jumpy. Also, u cut some of the good stuff :-O I wanted to see (more of) you making a royal pigsty of a mess when using the hydraulic pressure to release the piston.
Is there a cap or cover missing from the right shaft at the bottom near the attachment plate?
Cosmetic difference only between the replacement vs. repaired?
Fall is rapidly approaching to the work load is upon you. Yeehaw!
+Ji Fi-01 it's tough to decide what to cut out. I try to keep things moving fast enough to be interesting, but maybe I'm taking out to much?
Only differences in cylinders are the original had the fittings on the front and the new one had them on the side.
Maybe u sliced too much. Just letting you know I enjoy the messy in-process stuff as well. I can always fast-forward if I need the abridged version. :-) I certainly don't want any of the thrilling farming activities to land on the barnyard floor. Don't let me teasing worry you (too much, just thoughts). You've got bails to make & move and tractors to fix & sell. Your farming time clock is tickin in overdrive.
CLICK CLICK. TORQUED 👍🏻
WHEN THE REMOVAL RING WONT WORK, FILL THE GROVE WITH JB WELD CLEAR,
Probably a good tutorial video, but not a good job of editing the content. Small leaps from one step to another, and a giant leap at 11:11. In total, good video or at least better than nothing.
Rest in peace, headphone users
+Kars Poelma uh oh! I edited with headphones, did I miss something?
First!!