Glad you're getting it figured out and don't have to take the whole engine apart again. Some people just have to be negative, glad they don't get you down.
If it's not red, leave it in the shed, I like all of them but prefer the red ones. I love your content and your a great mechanic don't let the haters get to you.
I agree pistons and liners look good to go. I recommend putting the Deere break in oil in it again for round 2 as their hard chrome rings won't seat for thousands of hours using a slick oil like their plus 50
Just saw your first video and yes don't let them get you down but you had no idea the shop that did the head screwed up. You have to say if your work last more than 100 hrs all is good no mechanic should brow beat another unless he really bad and never finishes the work . God bless and keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment if you watch the other videos on my channel about that tractor you will understand that I absorbed the tractor and 13k worth of parts 10yrs ago when a customer walked away from it that hired me to restore it.
Probably would not hook a log chain to it yet and sell for a boat anchor! Think you might be on to something. Keep digging, thinking you might get your money back any way.Thanks for taking me along! Great video.
Hi again that was alot to absorb sorry you had to do that. Yes like you I do the same but I hope I never have to do that. Thx. Keep up the good work there is always good to have someone working on the older tractors . Many dealers not what to work on them any more God bless
running the injector pop off pressure at 3000psi is causing late combustion timing reset them to spec. i was a JD mechanic and did all of the out of warranty reparts on the 10 series and 20 searies tractors for 3 years in 72 -75. the dealer has a new left over 4000. it was my job to break it in on the dyno. 1 hour at 1/4 throttle for and hour then 1/2 throttle for another hour then 3/4 throttle for another hour. then full throttle for 2 hours. at full load. 15 minutes into the full load it died like you shut it down. i unloaded it and it started back up but only had 26hp when before it was turning 93hp. upon teardown all the pistons were seized with stuck rings. this was a common problem with the 404 diesel engines. it was caused by the Orings that sealed the sleeves compressing them to seize the pistons.. i in frame overhauled over 30 tractors in the time i worked there. the a hours on these engines were about 1500 to 2500 hours due to piston seizing... the parts man called in the warranty and the JD Tech came to inspect it engine. JD sent a new overhaul kit and the tech had a large box full of Orings for the sleeves made from a different material every gasket set in stock was opened and the Orings were changed and the old ones destroyed. that cured the short engine life problem.
Thanks for the input and the years of experience that would make sense on higher pop off causing late combustion. Maybe I could just advance the timing a touch
I'm glad that you found it. I've been wondering what it could be. All of that makes sense with the condensation from sitting and the head gasket leaking at #6. I used to be a JD mechanic from the late 80's to mid 90's...now I just farm full time and occasionally work on my equipment. So I guess that makes me a wanna be mechanic. LOL Based on what I've seen from your videos, I'd have you work on anything of mine.
Thanks a bunch bud. Obviously alot of viewers don't know I was a case-ih tech in late 90s then vermeer construction tech in early 2000s then went to farming full time. Then farming started getting real rough around 2013 so I went back to being a head tech for a construction company while still farming 1500acres those were rough years. 3yrs ago I finally got back to just farming again.
That rival about farm equipment is the same as with truck and car manufacturers. I look at it like there has been a hell of a lot of farming done by Allis, John Deere and farmall over the years. All of them have broke in some way or the other same as trucks and cars. Some people feel they justify their existence by being a blow hard instead of doing something productive.
Gotta love the haters! I did my first 4020 engine job about 1 yr ago. Liner bores were gone, had to machine out for inserts. Oil plugs were all press in, that was a pain. As soon as I poured in coolant, it ran out at head gasket. Block and were surfaced and flat. Liner protrusion was correct. Had to upgrade to newer style head bolts with almost twice the torque as original and the craziest torque sequence I've ever seen. That brought the head down another. 010 But it worked. Then I installed oil pump 1 tooth off, didn't realize that till start up. After all that, pump and injectors went to shop 4 times before corrected. It was a challenge to say the least, but it's gone and running great.
I just completely rebuilt my 1958 IH 350 from top to bottom, front to back. Paint and new Firestone tires to boot. I went out and mowed with it and lost power. Pulled the freshly painted head and found a scored cylinder. Fix all that and it’s back together running good. But now leaking coolant from the radiator neck and hydraulic oil from the valve stack. It never ends.
Yeah that sucks hopefully you love that tractor and win the battle. Unfortunately I didn't want this one and when the original owner screwed me on the labor and all parts this really hits home knowing I'm already going to take a loss before this issue but I hope urs works out and you can enjoy the final product
I have started doing my own valve work as I have had trouble getting good work from machine shops lately. I also lap all the valves lightly just to check how they are actually sealing. I have had the head angle be off just a little bit even grinding the seats myself. I will also agree with Brain to try it again with break in oil. Let it warm up to operating temp and then load the motor. I own my own DYNO so I can run them longer to break them in. I usually go 25% load for ten minutes or so to get everything good and warm. Then I go to 80-90% load. I let it run there for a few hours while watching everything. I do have gauges that let me watch exhaust temp and injection timing. As for guys running you down or the tractor down. I am well over 70 years old. I have owned and worked on just about every brand out there. There are good and bad things on just about every brand. There can be terrible things wrong with individual pieces of equipment that could be the best models ever. Time is also an enemy when working on equipment. I happened across a JD 466 motor. I had time and the money so I completely majored it to have a good motor ready to install in a future tractor I figured I would buy. Well the market exploded and I did not get a tractor bought for five years. I finally got a JD 4450 bought with a bad motor. I installed the motor and found out that the cylinder liners had flash rusted while stored in my heated shop. I had lubed them when I installed them but that did not last for five years. I had to pull the pistons and hone the bores. Then install new rings.
Thanks for the comment 👍. Yeah I think the combination of bad head rebuild and me only running it for a couple minutes after initial rebuild 10yrs ago didn't help anything with sealing up head gasket. I just got head back now just need to finish harvest to put it back together. I also got the updated head bolts this time.
I have got heads back from a shop before with valves that didn't seal after I installed them too. Now I always fill spray some solvent or oil around the valves &, blow shop air in the ports to look for valves not sealing before I put the heads back on
First time watching your video, which is very good BTW, I've been a paid mechanic for over forty years and to tell someone that they are not a good mechanic isn't cool. I have had my share of do overs over the years sometime from bad parts other time it was my mistake but things happen even though you try to cover all your bases. I hope that someday i can reach the level of no mistakes! Still working on that!
I'm a Deere man, have 3020, and 4020, both have been overhauled, and turboed. The 3020 is fine, but the 4020 leaks oil out of the right side at head gasket. If yours is leaking already, it won't stop. The oil pressure to the head is too close to the edge, and I have no idea how to fix it. See what others say. Have heard of newer after market head gaskets have a copper ring around that area where the oil goes to the head to feed the rockers. I know of one 4020 leaked so bad he bypassed the factory oil feed to the head. When head was off machine, he plugged the oil passage in the block, how I don't know. He plugged the rear hole in the head where it feeds the rocker cover. Then he run a line from one of the block oil passages at the cam, run the line up to rocker cover, into rocker tube. Made a ugly seal where the line goes thru cover and it works, no oil running down the block at rear. t
My 4020 was leaking there. 3020s will too. I replaced the head gasket. I also used a gasket in a tube around that area. I don't remember what one but I do remember it was a product that fit the application. John Deere book says retorque every 600 hours. So far no leaking after about 800 hours.
I saw that smoky intake valve and wondered if the valve was hanging up too. You are a damn good mechanic RG, unfortunately people sometimes leave bad comments... Sorry for the headaches on that machine, sounds like you are getting it fixed up soon though.
Yeah it amazes me what people are willing to comment. I watch tons of different repair videos and I would never comment that crap I either switch to different video or comment with some of my knowledge to try to help them fix it. Worst part is this tractor is a prime example of human nature how people can totally screw you and I bring it to youtube for more of them to kick dirt in my eyes but it's fine I appreciate people like you and that makes up for it.
We’ve seen a lot of head gaskets seep oil out through the gasket where the oil feeds up to the head. There’s no o-ring or metal sealing ring around the oil passage and the gasket will let the pressurized oil through its core.
I work with 4020’S for nearly 30 years no engine or drive train problems just other superficial issues. But service accordingly to the manual. -LAVEEN,AZ.
@@RJ1999x around Phoenix we have hard pan,clods bigger than a basketball and very rocky sandy soil. That 402 a10ft disc , 4 bottom plow and a 5 ripper shank 3foot as deep as it can go. Shifts of 12 hrs.
@@JoseGarcia-hk3mk you would be able to sell that story, had I not worked at the Paloma Ranch in Gila Bend, and know exactly what the soil is. The ranch I might add, the largest ranch under irrigation in the US, was exclusively Allis Chalmers
All in a days work as they say ! Trying to find a reputable machine shop today is definitely a challenge and reman anything is shit today. I have faith in you partner give em hell ! Hope everything else is going good I’m sure you’ll be busy harvesting soon take care now
Hi bud! Yeah I've all but given up on taking stuff to machine shop anymore. It either takes months to get it back or they just slap it together. Yes I started on some corn last week hoping to do beans tomorrow. Stay well
I have built and dynoed a couple of hundred JD 400 series motors working at a tractor scrapyard. The blowby will decrease with use. Don't baby it, take it out hook it to something and WORK it varying the rpms. The injectors will be high when new, DO NOT buy "rebuilt" pencil style injectors! The blocks like to warp down in the middle and can twist, if the gasket wasn't leaking before don't surface the head if it's going on the same block, they were bolted together and warped together. but if you re-surface the block you have to counter bore for the sleeves, and then the pistons may sit too high. You can only take about. 020 TOTAL from the block and head before valve to piston interference is an issue, thicker gaskets are available to cure SOME issues, but if the block is bowed on top it's probably bowed in the mains and cam tunnel. 2wd sagged in the middle especially if they had saddle tanks on the tractor, 4wd bowed up in the middle same reason. Those scratches in the cylinders shouldn't be there but are a non-issue. Adding a few degrees of advance to the timing wakes them up. There's alot of 4020s making an honest 120+ hp out there N/A if you get the governor, timing and fuel right they idle like a cammed out late model sprint car and wind up quicker! Most automotive shops can't properly cut the super hard valve seats, or grind the cranks. Keep valve protrusion within spec to prevent interference. Never for any length of time, no matter what anyone says, run any Diesel, especially wet sleeved for any length of time without water. I saw something that indicated this may have been done, but it is probably a non-issue in this case. You can turn sleeves blue, ruin piston rings, and O rings in SECONDS without water. JD revised their head gasket torque specs to include working up in 3 steps, wait at least 1 hour, back off each bolt 1/6th to 1/4 turn, and re-torque, then re-check. You will be amazed how much more you pull the head down on any engine this way. Use JD gaskets. brand loyalty is largely BS. I would own a 4020, I have a 2010 and like it even the green guys despise them, I think the 2 best looking tractors ever were the IH 1468 and Allis Chalmers D-21 series 2 the White 2-135 and 2-155 are underappreciated. The big Fords with the 401 will pull down lower than any other six cylinder. I have an 1155 Massey Ferguson with dual exhaust, special pump and injectors, and quicker timing that dynoed at 236 hp before I put 5 more turns in the smoke screw no turbos. That 540 Perkins V8 is a work of art and will pull down so low you can count the fan blades going by. The rear ends are bullet proof if you RTFM (read the "furnished" manual" about oils and servicing. I still have the 44 Massey Harris my grandpa bought used in 1958 and rely on it. I also have a 55 Diesel Massey and have had a hot W-9 IH gas we farmed with that made 77 hp, and had an IH T-9 military dozer for 55 years worked hard with a loader bucket and winch. I ran old Gleaner E/A/and A2 combines until I sold out 4 years ago. With duals on they will go where you can't walk and we got called to do soft areas for the big boys. I like the Allis D17 series 4 and the 190xt, And 8550. The MM 1355 and Plainsman are cool, too. I would love to have an 80/820/830 JD. I always liked the over-under-direct powershift in the Olivers. International used less metal in their 400 series and smaller dimensions but it was very high quality and great machining, JD used more of lesser quality same results. I could hang an IH 466 crank by the nose, rub it with a rag and make it sing like a bell it would keep ringing for 2 minutes, they were through hardened. JD wouldn't do that. Surface hardened but heavier. If you take proper care of any of the old girls, they will outlive you. However, if you like spending green money, taking everything apart just to get to something and buying special tools, run JD green tractors. Just my opinion. If you like it run it and IGNORE everyone else, just don't bash theirs.
That head has been on there for a good while... like over a year right? The clamp load is what sets a gasket. How did the head bolts feel coming out? I don't think I've ever had a gasket come off that clean even when only a month old. Make sure all the protrusion specs are correct. To avoid any mystery knock off part shenanigans get the replacement head gasket from Deere, or a local parts store. No online anything. I like the injector pop off pressure. You could bump the timing a bit to clean some of the full load smoke up. With some hours and time they will sag to about where a guy wants them to be. Curious to find out what was hanging that intake valve up. If the color of the equipment mattered they would all be the same. Personally? Paid for is the best color.
I put the engine together 10yrs ago and it has sat since. The head bolts felt too lose coming out and the head had major issues that we figured out from shop that rebuilt it but that's fixed and I have new updated deere head bolts and updated torque specs
Glad it wasn’t anything too bad. It’s hard to find good machine shops now. I’m surprised mother Deere didn’t come back and repossess the 4020 that is not worshipped. I grew up on a 4020 Diesel Powershift, great tractor. But there are plenty of other brands and models that are pretty awesome. I ran a 7140 Magnum back in the early 90’s and wow was that an awesome tractor. I would almost bet the magnum tractors probably have more accumulated hours than the 4020, it would be an interesting experiment. A bunch of 4020 are now light duty tractors, not the big workhorse tractor that every farm once had. Thanks for the videos. Looking forward to Dyno day #2.
did they get new valves from the JD dealer? every time I get parts from my dealer they always get the wrong part, it happened to my father back in the 1960s and it still happens. they probably gave them an intake valve for gas engine or something else. does it still have blow by? if somebody else rebuilt the engine maybe they put the rings on each piston so all the gaps on the rings were lined up. I rebuilt a DT466 like that. every piston had the ring gaps stacked up in a line
Hey Thanks for your videos. The do it right or don't do it at all is right on. Great equipment. Just a question how do you like your JCB skid steer. Thanks again.
Xi just saw your video have no idea what your problem is but when you showed piston and the under side of head I would think you had your injectors are set right and the spray pattern is good
Yep I'm not sure why deere thought they needed that pump when the engine will naturally vent off crank case pressure. But yes I think the combination of forced ventilation and the fact the engine oil had condensation from sitting made it steam out the pipe
@@rgfarmsrepair503 Got to remember Deere made 2 cylinder engines up until 1960. They were still new at making in line 4 and 6 cylinders. The weep holes in the side of the blocks were another oddity. I can see what they were thinking but it’s not necessary.
The best thing to do with a ventilator is plug the line to the intake .we were doing it at the dealership 40 years ago any one I work on now I plug off
Given that I don't actually know you I have no doubt as to the quality of your work. Pay no heed to those haters, that's what they live for. Me, I'm just a toolmaker,
If the lines in the cylinders have no depth they could have been made when the sleeves were measured with a bore micrometer as that will happen. If they have any depth then its from debris or something else and the only way to know is to pull one of the pistons. Also, with the valves out, apply some Prussion blue (or black marker) to the valve and then insert it in the head and rotate it back and forth with some hand pressure (not 360 degrees) then pull the valve and check the seat contact width and if you are getting 360 degree contact. This all takes time and may have not been done when the head was machined.
Yep last time I rebuilt a head was during diesel tech college in 1998 lol but yes that's what my friend at dealership is going to do. Since those scrapes go all the way to the top of sleeve ur theory of when they measured them makes sense. Thanks for the input I appreciate it.
Valve has to be bent... But why... Sometimes we are just left with WTF events. Gasket sure wasn't sealing anything other than the fire rings. I copper spray most head gaskets. Does it do anything? Dunno never had an issue with or without. You will get it sorted and sent down the road sooner than later. If it had the side station hydraulics and full power shift I'd be more inclined to keep it around. Otherwise it's pretty much like any old tractor.
It wasn't bent they just really screwed up alot of things and this is a machine shop that has been around for decades. #1 seat was way off. Plus it had an exhaust rotator on another cylinder that was broke in half
Dont worry what people say some are just full of shit .I see how you work you do great detective work 4020 where great tractors but in my area IH 806 was king
Yeah when I get a break from harvest I will do a video on it. It was a shop that's been around for ages and I respect the owner but this head had multiple issues
Sounds like you got a bad taste in your mouth I recommend using some DEF and razor blades gargle twice a day . Please let us know what tractor brings on auction
Yeah I could but I'm not going to that's not the problem and I have spent or absorbed way to much time and money into this tractor already. I never wanted it to start with so it's getting fixed and auctioned off.
I didn't even watch the video and I know what the problem is. My grandfather told me whenever you let a tractor with faded paint ride it'll last forever. But the second you start seeking attention slapping on new John Deere green paint it ain't gonna last long. Hope the attention was worth it
Glad you're getting it figured out and don't have to take the whole engine apart again. Some people just have to be negative, glad they don't get you down.
If it's not red, leave it in the shed, I like all of them but prefer the red ones. I love your content and your a great mechanic don't let the haters get to you.
I love it when the Juan Queer guys get their green g-strings wadded up. Keep it up!
Lol 😆 thanks
Glad you got it figured not a machanic myself helped on a few builds you seem to have it nice work on the diagnosis 😊😊😊
I agree pistons and liners look good to go. I recommend putting the Deere break in oil in it again for round 2 as their hard chrome rings won't seat for thousands of hours using a slick oil like their plus 50
Yep I was going to go get some more of it because it has a new cam in it also. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@rgfarmsrepair503 Brian knows a thing or two ;-)
Just saw your first video and yes don't let them get you down but you had no idea the shop that did the head screwed up. You have to say if your work last more than 100 hrs all is good no mechanic should brow beat another unless he really bad and never finishes the work . God bless and keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment if you watch the other videos on my channel about that tractor you will understand that I absorbed the tractor and 13k worth of parts 10yrs ago when a customer walked away from it that hired me to restore it.
Probably would not hook a log chain to it yet and sell for a boat anchor! Think you might be on to something. Keep digging, thinking you might get your money back any way.Thanks for taking me along! Great video.
Thanks
Hi again that was alot to absorb sorry you had to do that. Yes like you I do the same but I hope I never have to do that. Thx. Keep up the good work there is always good to have someone working on the older tractors . Many dealers not what to work on them any more God bless
I appreciate the comment. I love working on the older stuff it just was built with so much more pride in my opinion and was built to last a lifetime
running the injector pop off pressure at 3000psi is causing late combustion timing reset them to spec. i was a JD mechanic and did all of the out of warranty reparts on the 10 series and 20 searies tractors for 3 years in 72 -75. the dealer has a new left over 4000. it was my job to break it in on the dyno. 1 hour at 1/4 throttle for and hour then 1/2 throttle for another hour then 3/4 throttle for another hour. then full throttle for 2 hours. at full load. 15 minutes into the full load it died like you shut it down. i unloaded it and it started back up but only had 26hp when before it was turning 93hp. upon teardown all the pistons were seized with stuck rings. this was a common problem with the 404 diesel engines. it was caused by the Orings that sealed the sleeves compressing them to seize the pistons.. i in frame overhauled over 30 tractors in the time i worked there. the a hours on these engines were about 1500 to 2500 hours due to piston seizing... the parts man called in the warranty and the JD Tech came to inspect it engine. JD sent a new overhaul kit and the tech had a large box full of Orings for the sleeves made from a different material every gasket set in stock was opened and the Orings were changed and the old ones destroyed. that cured the short engine life problem.
Thanks for the input and the years of experience that would make sense on higher pop off causing late combustion. Maybe I could just advance the timing a touch
I'm glad that you found it. I've been wondering what it could be. All of that makes sense with the condensation from sitting and the head gasket leaking at #6. I used to be a JD mechanic from the late 80's to mid 90's...now I just farm full time and occasionally work on my equipment. So I guess that makes me a wanna be mechanic. LOL Based on what I've seen from your videos, I'd have you work on anything of mine.
Thanks a bunch bud. Obviously alot of viewers don't know I was a case-ih tech in late 90s then vermeer construction tech in early 2000s then went to farming full time. Then farming started getting real rough around 2013 so I went back to being a head tech for a construction company while still farming 1500acres those were rough years. 3yrs ago I finally got back to just farming again.
That rival about farm equipment is the same as with truck and car manufacturers. I look at it like there has been a hell of a lot of farming done by Allis, John Deere and farmall over the years. All of them have broke in some way or the other same as trucks and cars. Some people feel they justify their existence by being a blow hard instead of doing something productive.
I agree 100%
dont let nobody pull you down man..your getting your hands dirty.
Gotta love the haters! I did my first 4020 engine job about 1 yr ago. Liner bores were gone, had to machine out for inserts.
Oil plugs were all press in, that was a pain.
As soon as I poured in coolant, it ran out at head gasket. Block and were surfaced and flat. Liner protrusion was correct. Had to upgrade to newer style head bolts with almost twice the torque as original and the craziest torque sequence I've ever seen. That brought the head down another. 010 But it worked.
Then I installed oil pump 1 tooth off, didn't realize that till start up. After all that, pump and injectors went to shop 4 times before corrected.
It was a challenge to say the least, but it's gone and running great.
I just completely rebuilt my 1958 IH 350 from top to bottom, front to back. Paint and new Firestone tires to boot. I went out and mowed with it and lost power. Pulled the freshly painted head and found a scored cylinder. Fix all that and it’s back together running good. But now leaking coolant from the radiator neck and hydraulic oil from the valve stack. It never ends.
Yeah that sucks hopefully you love that tractor and win the battle. Unfortunately I didn't want this one and when the original owner screwed me on the labor and all parts this really hits home knowing I'm already going to take a loss before this issue but I hope urs works out and you can enjoy the final product
I have started doing my own valve work as I have had trouble getting good work from machine shops lately. I also lap all the valves lightly just to check how they are actually sealing. I have had the head angle be off just a little bit even grinding the seats myself. I will also agree with Brain to try it again with break in oil. Let it warm up to operating temp and then load the motor. I own my own DYNO so I can run them longer to break them in. I usually go 25% load for ten minutes or so to get everything good and warm. Then I go to 80-90% load. I let it run there for a few hours while watching everything. I do have gauges that let me watch exhaust temp and injection timing.
As for guys running you down or the tractor down. I am well over 70 years old. I have owned and worked on just about every brand out there. There are good and bad things on just about every brand. There can be terrible things wrong with individual pieces of equipment that could be the best models ever.
Time is also an enemy when working on equipment. I happened across a JD 466 motor. I had time and the money so I completely majored it to have a good motor ready to install in a future tractor I figured I would buy. Well the market exploded and I did not get a tractor bought for five years. I finally got a JD 4450 bought with a bad motor. I installed the motor and found out that the cylinder liners had flash rusted while stored in my heated shop. I had lubed them when I installed them but that did not last for five years. I had to pull the pistons and hone the bores. Then install new rings.
Thanks for the comment 👍. Yeah I think the combination of bad head rebuild and me only running it for a couple minutes after initial rebuild 10yrs ago didn't help anything with sealing up head gasket. I just got head back now just need to finish harvest to put it back together. I also got the updated head bolts this time.
I have got heads back from a shop before with valves that didn't seal after I installed them too. Now I always fill spray some solvent or oil around the valves &, blow shop air in the ports to look for valves not sealing before I put the heads back on
First time watching your video, which is very good BTW, I've been a paid mechanic for over forty years and to tell someone that they are not a good mechanic isn't cool. I have had my share of do overs over the years sometime from bad parts other time it was my mistake but things happen even though you try to cover all your bases. I hope that someday i can reach the level of no mistakes! Still working on that!
I'm a Deere man, have 3020, and 4020, both have been overhauled, and turboed. The 3020 is fine, but the 4020 leaks oil out of the right side at head gasket. If yours is leaking already, it won't stop. The oil pressure to the head is too close to the edge, and I have no idea how to fix it. See what others say. Have heard of newer after market head gaskets have a copper ring around that area where the oil goes to the head to feed the rockers.
I know of one 4020 leaked so bad he bypassed the factory oil feed to the head. When head was off machine, he plugged the oil passage in the block, how I don't know. He plugged the rear hole in the head where it feeds the rocker cover. Then he run a line from one of the block oil passages at the cam, run the line up to rocker cover, into rocker tube. Made a ugly seal where the line goes thru cover and it works, no oil running down the block at rear.
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Always use new head bolts
My 4020 was leaking there. 3020s will too. I replaced the head gasket. I also used a gasket in a tube around that area. I don't remember what one but I do remember it was a product that fit the application. John Deere book says retorque every 600 hours. So far no leaking after about 800 hours.
I saw that smoky intake valve and wondered if the valve was hanging up too. You are a damn good mechanic RG, unfortunately people sometimes leave bad comments... Sorry for the headaches on that machine, sounds like you are getting it fixed up soon though.
Yeah it amazes me what people are willing to comment. I watch tons of different repair videos and I would never comment that crap I either switch to different video or comment with some of my knowledge to try to help them fix it. Worst part is this tractor is a prime example of human nature how people can totally screw you and I bring it to youtube for more of them to kick dirt in my eyes but it's fine I appreciate people like you and that makes up for it.
We’ve seen a lot of head gaskets seep oil out through the gasket where the oil feeds up to the head. There’s no o-ring or metal sealing ring around the oil passage and the gasket will let the pressurized oil through its core.
I work with 4020’S for nearly 30 years no engine or drive train problems just other superficial issues. But service accordingly to the manual. -LAVEEN,AZ.
Sounds good thanks for watching
They lacked the power and torque to tear much up
@@RJ1999x around Phoenix we have hard pan,clods bigger than a basketball and very rocky sandy soil. That 402 a10ft disc , 4 bottom plow and a 5 ripper shank 3foot as deep as it can go. Shifts of 12 hrs.
I’m talking about the 4020
@@JoseGarcia-hk3mk you would be able to sell that story, had I not worked at the Paloma Ranch in Gila Bend, and know exactly what the soil is.
The ranch I might add, the largest ranch under irrigation in the US, was exclusively Allis Chalmers
All in a days work as they say ! Trying to find a reputable machine shop today is definitely a challenge and reman anything is shit today. I have faith in you partner give em hell ! Hope everything else is going good I’m sure you’ll be busy harvesting soon take care now
Hi bud! Yeah I've all but given up on taking stuff to machine shop anymore. It either takes months to get it back or they just slap it together. Yes I started on some corn last week hoping to do beans tomorrow. Stay well
I have built and dynoed a couple of hundred JD 400 series motors working at a tractor scrapyard. The blowby will decrease with use. Don't baby it, take it out hook it to something and WORK it varying the rpms. The injectors will be high when new, DO NOT buy "rebuilt" pencil style injectors! The blocks like to warp down in the middle and can twist, if the gasket wasn't leaking before don't surface the head if it's going on the same block, they were bolted together and warped together. but if you re-surface the block you have to counter bore for the sleeves, and then the pistons may sit too high. You can only take about. 020 TOTAL from the block and head before valve to piston interference is an issue, thicker gaskets are available to cure SOME issues, but if the block is bowed on top it's probably bowed in the mains and cam tunnel. 2wd sagged in the middle especially if they had saddle tanks on the tractor, 4wd bowed up in the middle same reason. Those scratches in the cylinders shouldn't be there but are a non-issue. Adding a few degrees of advance to the timing wakes them up. There's alot of 4020s making an honest 120+ hp out there N/A if you get the governor, timing and fuel right they idle like a cammed out late model sprint car and wind up quicker! Most automotive shops can't properly cut the super hard valve seats, or grind the cranks. Keep valve protrusion within spec to prevent interference. Never for any length of time, no matter what anyone says, run any Diesel, especially wet sleeved for any length of time without water. I saw something that indicated this may have been done, but it is probably a non-issue in this case. You can turn sleeves blue, ruin piston rings, and O rings in SECONDS without water. JD revised their head gasket torque specs to include working up in 3 steps, wait at least 1 hour, back off each bolt 1/6th to 1/4 turn, and re-torque, then re-check. You will be amazed how much more you pull the head down on any engine this way. Use JD gaskets. brand loyalty is largely BS. I would own a 4020, I have a 2010 and like it even the green guys despise them, I think the 2 best looking tractors ever were the IH 1468 and Allis Chalmers D-21 series 2 the White 2-135 and 2-155 are underappreciated. The big Fords with the 401 will pull down lower than any other six cylinder. I have an 1155 Massey Ferguson with dual exhaust, special pump and injectors, and quicker timing that dynoed at 236 hp before I put 5 more turns in the smoke screw no turbos. That 540 Perkins V8 is a work of art and will pull down so low you can count the fan blades going by. The rear ends are bullet proof if you RTFM (read the "furnished" manual" about oils and servicing. I still have the 44 Massey Harris my grandpa bought used in 1958 and rely on it. I also have a 55 Diesel Massey and have had a hot W-9 IH gas we farmed with that made 77 hp, and had an IH T-9 military dozer for 55 years worked hard with a loader bucket and winch. I ran old Gleaner E/A/and A2 combines until I sold out 4 years ago. With duals on they will go where you can't walk and we got called to do soft areas for the big boys. I like the Allis D17 series 4 and the 190xt, And 8550. The MM 1355 and Plainsman are cool, too. I would love to have an 80/820/830 JD. I always liked the over-under-direct powershift in the Olivers. International used less metal in their 400 series and smaller dimensions but it was very high quality and great machining, JD used more of lesser quality same results. I could hang an IH 466 crank by the nose, rub it with a rag and make it sing like a bell it would keep ringing for 2 minutes, they were through hardened. JD wouldn't do that. Surface hardened but heavier. If you take proper care of any of the old girls, they will outlive you. However, if you like spending green money, taking everything apart just to get to something and buying special tools, run JD green tractors. Just my opinion. If you like it run it and IGNORE everyone else, just don't bash theirs.
Don’t worry about what people say hater’s are going to hate just keep on doing your thing brother
TONY!!! Nice to hear from you! I hope all is well bud.
Fine lesson...
I’ll gladly give you over two cents for the red ones… Keep up the good work.
😆 🤣 thanks bud 👍
None of us mechanics are perfect. Mistakes happen to everyone including the machine shop. Just another day in Paradise.
I hope you get it sorted out,that's a nice tractor. At least maybe you can get good money for it and buy a couple more red pos to keep forever!LOL!
That would be awesome 👌
That head has been on there for a good while... like over a year right? The clamp load is what sets a gasket. How did the head bolts feel coming out? I don't think I've ever had a gasket come off that clean even when only a month old. Make sure all the protrusion specs are correct. To avoid any mystery knock off part shenanigans get the replacement head gasket from Deere, or a local parts store. No online anything. I like the injector pop off pressure. You could bump the timing a bit to clean some of the full load smoke up. With some hours and time they will sag to about where a guy wants them to be.
Curious to find out what was hanging that intake valve up. If the color of the equipment mattered they would all be the same. Personally? Paid for is the best color.
I put the engine together 10yrs ago and it has sat since. The head bolts felt too lose coming out and the head had major issues that we figured out from shop that rebuilt it but that's fixed and I have new updated deere head bolts and updated torque specs
Glad it wasn’t anything too bad. It’s hard to find good machine shops now. I’m surprised mother Deere didn’t come back and repossess the 4020 that is not worshipped. I grew up on a 4020 Diesel Powershift, great tractor. But there are plenty of other brands and models that are pretty awesome. I ran a 7140 Magnum back in the early 90’s and wow was that an awesome tractor. I would almost bet the magnum tractors probably have more accumulated hours than the 4020, it would be an interesting experiment. A bunch of 4020 are now light duty tractors, not the big workhorse tractor that every farm once had. Thanks for the videos. Looking forward to Dyno day #2.
Nice tractor
Thanks
did they get new valves from the JD dealer? every time I get parts from my dealer they always get the wrong part, it happened to my father back in the 1960s and it still happens. they probably gave them an intake valve for gas engine or something else.
does it still have blow by? if somebody else rebuilt the engine maybe they put the rings on each piston so all the gaps on the rings were lined up. I rebuilt a DT466 like that. every piston had the ring gaps stacked up in a line
Hey Thanks for your videos. The do it right or don't do it at all is right on. Great equipment. Just a question how do you like your JCB skid steer. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment 👍 I love the jcb really don't have any complaints it is very nice to be able to jump in and thru side door
Xi just saw your video have no idea what your problem is but when you showed piston and the under side of head I would think you had your injectors are set right and the spray pattern is good
😢 sometimes they don't run as good as they look but you're trying
There is a crankcase ventilator pump that pushes air out that pipe. Always looks like there is blow by. I don’t think the late models had that pump.
Yep I'm not sure why deere thought they needed that pump when the engine will naturally vent off crank case pressure. But yes I think the combination of forced ventilation and the fact the engine oil had condensation from sitting made it steam out the pipe
@@rgfarmsrepair503
Got to remember Deere made 2 cylinder engines up until 1960. They were still new at making in line 4 and 6 cylinders. The weep holes in the side of the blocks were another oddity. I can see what they were thinking but it’s not necessary.
The best thing to do with a ventilator is plug the line to the intake .we were doing it at the dealership 40 years ago any one I work on now I plug off
Given that I don't actually know you I have no doubt as to the quality of your work. Pay no heed to those haters, that's what they live for. Me, I'm just a toolmaker,
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
These engines are known to leak where u indicated. Had jd mechanic tell me to put Indian shalak on that area under head gasket to keep from leaking
Yes deere didn't solve that problem for a long time on many models. It wasn't leaking oil it was coolant along the whole side. Head gasket didn't seal
If the lines in the cylinders have no depth they could have been made when the sleeves were measured with a bore micrometer as that will happen. If they have any depth then its from debris or something else and the only way to know is to pull one of the pistons. Also, with the valves out, apply some Prussion blue (or black marker) to the valve and then insert it in the head and rotate it back and forth with some hand pressure (not 360 degrees) then pull the valve and check the seat contact width and if you are getting 360 degree contact. This all takes time and may have not been done when the head was machined.
Yep last time I rebuilt a head was during diesel tech college in 1998 lol but yes that's what my friend at dealership is going to do. Since those scrapes go all the way to the top of sleeve ur theory of when they measured them makes sense. Thanks for the input I appreciate it.
You will always have someone who has never done a job before telling you how to do it.
Ring gap???
You’re a smart guy, don’t let the kids in their mom’s basement bother you. They were neglected in their youth.
Lol thanks. People crack me up unbelievable what they are willing to say hiding behind their keyboard
Valve has to be bent... But why... Sometimes we are just left with WTF events. Gasket sure wasn't sealing anything other than the fire rings. I copper spray most head gaskets. Does it do anything? Dunno never had an issue with or without. You will get it sorted and sent down the road sooner than later. If it had the side station hydraulics and full power shift I'd be more inclined to keep it around. Otherwise it's pretty much like any old tractor.
It wasn't bent they just really screwed up alot of things and this is a machine shop that has been around for decades. #1 seat was way off. Plus it had an exhaust rotator on another cylinder that was broke in half
Dont worry what people say some are just full of shit .I see how you work you do great detective work 4020 where great tractors but in my area IH 806 was king
Thanks for the comment and support 👍
1100 massey was king of hill
sell it go with CNH !!!!!!!!!.
John deere parts are China today, but anything deere recon you are paying for bad odds.
You clowns and your Chiiinaaaa complex.
Junk Deere and nothing more.
That’s some kind of poor head repair, in all the yrs of working on them, never any kind of problem like that
Yeah when I get a break from harvest I will do a video on it. It was a shop that's been around for ages and I respect the owner but this head had multiple issues
@@rgfarmsrepair503 👍
Looks to me like cracks....
Get a head gasket from John deere not Amazon......and you will be back in the field
Lol that was a deere engine kit lmfao. That tractor isn't going to the field it's going down the road where it belongs
Sounds like you got a bad taste in your mouth I recommend using some DEF and razor blades gargle twice a day . Please let us know what tractor brings on auction
john deere guys are the worst thing about john deere
That is great! You are 100% correct alot of them think you are just a peasant farmer if it's not green.
If you're that far, you might want to pull the pistons out.
Yeah I could but I'm not going to that's not the problem and I have spent or absorbed way to much time and money into this tractor already. I never wanted it to start with so it's getting fixed and auctioned off.
Find a new machine shop.
Yeah easier said then done anymore
I didn't even watch the video and I know what the problem is. My grandfather told me whenever you let a tractor with faded paint ride it'll last forever. But the second you start seeking attention slapping on new John Deere green paint it ain't gonna last long. Hope the attention was worth it
Thanks for the comment it makes me more money
@rgfarmsrepair503 if making money is all you care about and not looking stupid doesn't bother you then carry on 👍
@@AJ-yg2wu👎