I will never get over that the old engine ran pretty well. The staggering amount of internal damage it took and continued to function is a testament to both the machine and the people who built it.
Not only did it run, but it ran shockingly well. That is the hallmark of a good engine, when it can be that badly fucked up and still get the job done.
@@TestECull i read about story of the old two stroke detroit diesel that the us used on the gun boats in vietnam were they have a blown the pistons out the side of the block and keep running
I have an old 2 stroke that was built with the most rugged internals it ran on one cylinder for a week I didnt even notice but when I put a 4 stroke motor on and it touches water the motor seizes and breaks a PLASTIC cam gear 😂
My father had a 1947 Morris Commercial Cars Parcel Van (MCC PV) with a 2 ltr 4 cylinder Petrol engine. I still have a place in my heart for that van, he converted it into a kind of camper and we had fabulous holidays all through the 60s as kids. The mains on that crank were toast, you could lift the crank up and down a good 1/8” but it still ran fine, if not a bit clunky. One winter, we decided to pull the crank to replace the bearings, but to our disappointment, this engine didn’t have shelled bearings, the block was white-mettalled, so the only way to fix it was to replace the white metal. Dad never gave up, so he’s there with a blow-torch melting white metal onto the big end caps and the block, and paring them down to size with his penknife to make them match with the crank 😳. He got there (luckily there were only 3 main bearings) using jewelers rouge as a guide when he was getting close, and after - the engine ran so sweetly 🤣
Jeweller’s rouge is abrasive so that crank probably didn’t last long. Engineer’s blue or marker pen are the correct ways to find high and low spots in bearings.
Love the "field-engineering" solution. Rebuilt my Suzuki 185 engine as a teenager, and forgot to fit the gudgeon pin circlips. Grooves, is it? Oh, we had grooves. Filled 'em with JB Weld, sanded down with a flapwheel on a drill, and it started first kick. Lasted about 40 miles, before the epoxy fell out. Never ran again.
Used to do some pretty odd things with the Honda Civics I owned. Had 8 of them at one time, stripped 5 of em down for parts. Kept the other 3 as runners, and if one went blooey, we took the dash board out with the VIN plate and installed it in number two. Kept the VIN in the engine bay covered in crud, never once had any problems with the coppers. Hmmm. Owner ship says this is supposed to be blue, not green. Sorry officer, we repainted it and forgot to update the paper work :). Man I loved that little car. Had some tailgater pull round and cut in front, hooked his bumper on mine. We both pulled off the road, he got out and came back towards me. Watched me unfold my 6' 3'' frame from the car, turned round and took off. One of the few cars I actually really loved. That and VW beetles. Since then, it's mostly been pick up trucks, more practical for career and work.
This channel has quickly become one of my faves. You didn’t get this kind of content on Combat Dealers with Brucey Compton that’s for sure. I’d love to come and help out sometime pulling things apart and putting them back together. Great satisfaction.
You guys are so lucky to have the land/skill / and / passion to do what a lot of us watching want that's why we appreciate you sharing what you doing so many thanks for the videos and the best of luck in your Quest.
Well done Jack!! Keep up the good work chaps, the old girl will be running in no time. Warm the pistons in the oven(the Mrs will love it). Put the pins in the freezer and only take one out at a time. The sump cracks can be welded by a competent welder and given the good compression the mid block and heads look like they will make for a good swap. Be careful to make sure you work out the piston to head clearance as it will be pretty much game over if you get it wrong.
@@dg3723 True. Especially so for motor parts. But for other things it may be an issue. Alcohols form azeotropes with water (~5%). Anything that shouldn't come into contact with water should use anhydrous solvents.
also a tip (learned from Milo (as he learned from the Dirty Dozen team)): when re-assembling: set the engine vertically: it 'eases' to put in the pistons and rings in place
After the fall of the iron curtain lots of spairs for russian tanks where left in storage. A guy who had one of these engines at a tractor pulling event said he got his new in a crate from Lithuania where they had dozens still boxed .if you try the tractor pulling crew they might have a lead on one
You have a main rod connected directly to the big end cap and a shorter slave rod connected with a gugeon pin on the other side. Usually u take gugeon pin out of the slave rod first then flip the big end cap for access. Try heating the pistons with a blow lamp instead of cooling the gudgeon pin, we stick the pistons in a parts washer at 80'c for 20 mins at work
Liquid nitrogen is probably a bit harsh for the pin, you can introduce cold cracks into hardened surface of the pin. It is about -196C. A better bet would be dry ice (solid CO2) which is only -93C and does not lower the pin below the micro cracking region. If you are still stuck for temperature differential, warm the piston up with boiling water which will give you another 90+C of temperature differential. In Oz we can buy dry ice from BOC, might be the same in the UK. If not you can make your own, you just need an old sock and a CO2 cylinder. Attach the sock over the outlet valve of the cylinder securely and open the valve. The rapid expansion of the gas freezes the sock which then precipitates the CO2 into solid and you end up with a sock full of dry ice. When you use a CO2 extinguisher, the white cloud is the water from the air frozen into very small droplets encased in dry ice.
Int should be enough to put the pin in the freezer and the piston in the oven. But even that shouldn't be necessary if it's a floating pin assembly. If they are hard to get out its probably because of old gunk and dried oil.
Heat the pistons with a hot air gun, I’m worried you may have damaged the big end bearings by knocking the pins out, you have put a large side/ twisting load into the soft bearings that are not designed for a load in that direction. Great channel, love it, keep up the fascinating content 👍👍
The workings of engines and other things mechanical is a mystery to me, so why I am I so fascinated by this channel? Great stuff and good old down to earth British ingenuity, done with good humour, great surroundings and a beautiful dog supervising it all.
Só posso elogiar o trabalho de vocês são sensacional e que propuseram fazer dar o Tanque T-34 - Vida, esse foi Lendária à sua época da Segunda Guerra. Minha gratidão eterna aos combatentes que seguem na eternidade. Eu em Cuiabá - Mato Grosso / Brasil.
Probably moot now but I think @paulmccormick5042 has it right - the holes in the crank webs do look like they will line up with the pins with the crank out of the case, a clever little solution to this problem. Loving the channel btw, I'm currently recovering from a hip op and am binge watching like crazy! I note a number of other guys saying "use gear to lift bits like the injector body, don't lift by yourself". This is good advice so you don't wear out your joints and avoid injuries.
'When' you get an engine ready to run Joe, do you plan on wringing the oil out of your overalls to fill the sump? I think there'll be enough! It's the done thing to put the pistons in boiling water to let them expand, then the gudgeon pins will slide in. 🙂
A detail I noticed that may or may not make a difference for the project. The crank looks like it is a built-up type with bolts running through the main and big-end bearing journals. Would taking the entire crank apart make the disassembly / assembly of the connecting rod big-ends any easier, or would it just make the work more complicated? Absolutely impressed that you and Jack just get stuck into things like this without any fear.
Ref the "Merch". There has got to be a "I identify as a Foden" T shirt. I used al old Harley Davidson Piston as an ashtray for many years. They are ideal.
I am sat watching this with the all the faith in the world that should I ever have to fix a T35 block and engine I can sleep at night knowing I will be able to . And I am a carpet fitter ..... love that's guys
I must have to say, Mr Hewes, this channel's video and sound quality HAS improved enormously. Well done to your video Editor. Give that person a pay raise!
I think the heat method is the most likely. Remember the production of these tanks during the war was done in factories with the roof off and very basic equipment. Heat could be managed at all times of the year but cold probably only in winter. The factories were built up at the same time as the tanks as they were moved from areas of German incursion. Many were started up the crew doing up the last bolts and driven off to be armed and then onto the front line. That is dedication, desperation and a faith rarely seen elsewhere!
By the way, it was quite common to have aluminium blocks in the Gudgeon pins are to 475 hp Sunbeam engines we are rebuilding at the moment. I’m exactly the same system. Bit lighter than the Russian system though. Keep going you got a messy a job there. Have fun Michael
so this tank survived WWII and whatever Germany threw at it, suppressed attempted uprisings in eastern europe, kept stalin in power, the cold war, and neglectful ownership but it couldn't survive a few weeks at your shop? Congrats! you are the most dangerous thing this tank has ever faced xD love you guys!
Mains caps on engines are line bored with the block. which means no 2 caps are the same. So if you put the caps from another engine on a different block, the bore won't be round. 😖
It’s not all rocket science 🤷♂️ As long as it’s machined properly to a certain tolerance (as it were) It’ll be right enough to keep it running for a few years longer. Yessssss I’m really OCD about things so i absolutely know what you are saying/meaning,,,, I also know that thing will run for a very long time and give little issues, it will live to see another generation 🙂
1:53 "unfortunately I've got Jack(Goose) here to help me" ... cue the music.... priceless 😄. Loving the more 'in-depth' videos...keep up the good work 👍
Recently found your channel….brilliant. This is compulsive viewing for me. The inventive and creative approach to these mechanical challenges, all with good humour and antics is a true tonic. Many thanks.
I now it’s been said but quite rightly if u warm the pistons with a propane blow lamp don’t go mad around the piston skirt u will find it’s easy to remove and refit
That's an extremely well-designed engine. The way the conrods attach to the crank enables the barrels (sets of bores) on either side to be diametrically opposed to each other, presumably, so there'd be no need to cast 'handed' barrels for the left and right banks, therefore reducing production costs. In a standard design V engine, the pair of conrods would connect to each crank journal side by side, requiring the bores to be offset from one cylinder bank to the other. The main caps are also cross-bolted for additional strength. It would be interesting to compare this to the meteor (Merlin) bottom end.
Ever since you started this T34 project I thought that there people in Russia and Ukraine doing more or less the same thing but with knowledge and manuals, I do wonder if those con rod caps hinge on the other pin? I love the way that you are not intimidated by any set back so keep up the great work.
Great Channel, enjoy watching. Once you have "carefully" installed the good pistons onto the small ends of the connecting rods (please use a c-clamp to not beat an air chisel on the conn rod)...call anyone in your area that works on air-cooled VW engines, ( or Google it) they will be using a "breakaway ring compressor"...it might be too small for your pistons, but you will be able to see how it works and fabricate your own tool in the size you need. Turning the engine with the cylinder surface straight up level, start the cylinder/liner assembly onto the studs, wrap your custom ring compressor around the 2 pistons which are "highest" to the liner and start them in... repeat the process for 2 pistons at a time while also lowering the cylinder assembly down. I rebuilt my sisters VW bus engine in the driveway with a ring compressor fabricated from a piece of flat spring steel 50 years ago.
I am looking forward to when the 'patient' receives the new heart and moves into the recovery room. All good surgeons check their method until they are sure of being able to do it, then they give it a go. The next video will be fascinating!!!
Another great video! Thanks for taking the time to do everything involved making videos!They’re extremely entertaining and you give insight and knowledge of working on tanks and such.
yes and no. Original, perhaps, but they do have some parts compatibility with other soviet tanks. THey're still big-bank V twins but they're not quite as expensive as stuff like Merlins or Meteors in the same categories.
The awkward pause before filming along with some choice tunes is your channel trademark. The Stolly adventures reminds me of a UK techno group in the nineties called Altern8, that had some absolute breakbeat bangers and used to get around in a Stolly in their music videos :)
For the piston pins heat up the blody piston with a torch and the pin will be free . On most russian diesels it a interference fit when cold . for instance the YAMZ 236 238 SMD 62 D247 engines
liquid nitrogen probably not easy to get a hold of but dry ice should be easy to source and well within the needs of your application...should be a lot more budget friendly as well. thanks for the vids
aah, brings back memories of my hire-car fixing days, except i swapped around old 70s cortina engine bits to get knackered 80s transits back on rent you have a goldmine of mechanical merch there...
My grandfather worked at Rolls Royce Derby building and rebuilding both Merlin and Griffon engines, they would take scrap pistons and cut them through the gudgeon pin hole to make ashtrays, I still have his ashtray made from a Griffon piston!
If you just lift the crank out of the main bearings a little, you will have enough room to knock the pins out. If the pistons do not interfere with the block. Looks like a nice engine, far better than the yanks have said. The machining looks quite nice.
Yep those pistin pins are the same as the R3350 , floating pins with magnesium plugs in the ends, agree, just kiss them with a blow torch and they will push out , Great work lads.
You drill a small(ish) hole in the center of the pin, make threads in it, screws in a bolt or a slide hammer and drag the pin out. To balance the pin (and the crank) again, you should fill it with with solder or weld until it is equally heavy as other pins.
Would like to see tee shirts, hoodies, multi tools, fleece jackets and mugs for sale. We know you will get it up and running as you are so good 😉at fixing things. Has Jack been to RAF Cosford to get that flight suit and corporal stripes as they all look nice and clean and new which is unusual for Jack.😂
We used an electric hot plate to sweat the gudgeon pins in and out on Cummins pistons, doesn't take long they'll just drop out. Spin the pins up in a lathe and lap with crocus paper and paraffin to polish them. Reassemble in reverse.
that t-34 engine sudnt of run the state its in,just shows how tough they were tho,those engine parts will sell like hot cakes.ill be watching for them.excellent videos lads keep it going
Hi Joe, I know this is months after the event, but you stand the piston in a bucket of really hot water for a couple of minutes just before fitting on the Con Rod this warms it just enough to slide the gudgeon pin in easily.
I will never get over that the old engine ran pretty well. The staggering amount of internal damage it took and continued to function is a testament to both the machine and the people who built it.
Горжусь своими предками!
Not only did it run, but it ran shockingly well. That is the hallmark of a good engine, when it can be that badly fucked up and still get the job done.
@@TestECull i read about story of the old two stroke detroit diesel that the us used on the gun boats in vietnam were they have a blown the pistons out the side of the block and keep running
@@PavelNSKi wouldnt be so proud of your contemporaries however.
I have an old 2 stroke that was built with the most rugged internals it ran on one cylinder for a week I didnt even notice but when I put a 4 stroke motor on and it touches water the motor seizes and breaks a PLASTIC cam gear 😂
My father had a 1947 Morris Commercial Cars Parcel Van (MCC PV) with a 2 ltr 4 cylinder Petrol engine. I still have a place in my heart for that van, he converted it into a kind of camper and we had fabulous holidays all through the 60s as kids.
The mains on that crank were toast, you could lift the crank up and down a good 1/8” but it still ran fine, if not a bit clunky.
One winter, we decided to pull the crank to replace the bearings, but to our disappointment, this engine didn’t have shelled bearings, the block was white-mettalled, so the only way to fix it was to replace the white metal.
Dad never gave up, so he’s there with a blow-torch melting white metal onto the big end caps and the block, and paring them down to size with his penknife to make them match with the crank 😳.
He got there (luckily there were only 3 main bearings) using jewelers rouge as a guide when he was getting close, and after - the engine ran so sweetly 🤣
Jeweller’s rouge is abrasive so that crank probably didn’t last long. Engineer’s blue or marker pen are the correct ways to find high and low spots in bearings.
It is nice to see that there are still young people with brains that are willing to use it and work hard.
Love the "field-engineering" solution. Rebuilt my Suzuki 185 engine as a teenager, and forgot to fit the gudgeon pin circlips. Grooves, is it? Oh, we had grooves. Filled 'em with JB Weld, sanded down with a flapwheel on a drill, and it started first kick. Lasted about 40 miles, before the epoxy fell out. Never ran again.
There's probably jig or dolly tool the sits a few inches above the block crank journals to remove and install rod cap pins crank rests in a craddle?
Used to do some pretty odd things with the Honda Civics I owned. Had 8 of them at one time, stripped 5 of em down for parts. Kept the other 3 as runners, and if one went blooey, we took the dash board out with the VIN plate and installed it in number two. Kept the VIN in the engine bay covered in crud, never once had any problems with the coppers. Hmmm. Owner ship says this is supposed to be blue, not green. Sorry officer, we repainted it and forgot to update the paper work :). Man I loved that little car. Had some tailgater pull round and cut in front, hooked his bumper on mine. We both pulled off the road, he got out and came back towards me. Watched me unfold my 6' 3'' frame from the car, turned round and took off. One of the few cars I actually really loved. That and VW beetles. Since then, it's mostly been pick up trucks, more practical for career and work.
if you warm the pistons up the Gudgeon pins will slide out. They are designed to float and the soft aluminium pads thrust against the bore.
heat not just warm
Put the pistons in a bucket of hot water. If you have a metal bucket you can put it on a camping stove or similar.
Or even better than water .. a pan of oil
How would you get the pistons hot enough and not the pins at the same time?
@@aaron___6014никак. При сборке нужно нагреть поршни в кастрюле, а пальцы охладить в холодильнике)
This channel has quickly become one of my faves. You didn’t get this kind of content on Combat Dealers with Brucey Compton that’s for sure. I’d love to come and help out sometime pulling things apart and putting them back together. Great satisfaction.
Cooking dinner whilst watching the lads do a days work is becoming a staple in my life. keep it up! x
More interesting and enjoyable than 99% of everything else on RUclips. Well done chaps 👌
@@DaysOfDarknessUK Nice one 😉
You guys are so lucky to have the land/skill / and / passion to do what a lot of us watching want that's why we appreciate you sharing what you doing so many thanks for the videos and the best of luck in your Quest.
Well done Jack!!
Keep up the good work chaps, the old girl will be running in no time.
Warm the pistons in the oven(the Mrs will love it).
Put the pins in the freezer and only take one out at a time.
The sump cracks can be welded by a competent welder and given the good compression the mid block and heads look like they will make for a good swap.
Be careful to make sure you work out the piston to head clearance as it will be pretty much game over if you get it wrong.
If dry ice is easier to come by in your area, acetone/dry ice bath works pretty well as the poor man's LN2 in many use cases.
Or isopropyl alcohol works too and is a lot less cancerous than acetone aka nail polish remover.
@@dg3723 True. Especially so for motor parts. But for other things it may be an issue. Alcohols form azeotropes with water (~5%). Anything that shouldn't come into contact with water should use anhydrous solvents.
also a tip (learned from Milo (as he learned from the Dirty Dozen team)): when re-assembling: set the engine vertically: it 'eases' to put in the pistons and rings in place
Beautiful to see an old engine design like this come a part.
The retaining pins on the rods are taper pin. So make sure you put them in from the right side and the right way round 😂
There not had the calipers on them
After the fall of the iron curtain lots of spairs for russian tanks where left in storage. A guy who had one of these engines at a tractor pulling event said he got his new in a crate from Lithuania where they had dozens still boxed .if you try the tractor pulling crew they might have a lead on one
You have a main rod connected directly to the big end cap and a shorter slave rod connected with a gugeon pin on the other side. Usually u take gugeon pin out of the slave rod first then flip the big end cap for access. Try heating the pistons with a blow lamp instead of cooling the gudgeon pin, we stick the pistons in a parts washer at 80'c for 20 mins at work
It's really interesting to see the inside of the old t34 engine.
Liquid nitrogen is probably a bit harsh for the pin, you can introduce cold cracks into hardened surface of the pin. It is about -196C. A better bet would be dry ice (solid CO2) which is only -93C and does not lower the pin below the micro cracking region. If you are still stuck for temperature differential, warm the piston up with boiling water which will give you another 90+C of temperature differential. In Oz we can buy dry ice from BOC, might be the same in the UK. If not you can make your own, you just need an old sock and a CO2 cylinder. Attach the sock over the outlet valve of the cylinder securely and open the valve. The rapid expansion of the gas freezes the sock which then precipitates the CO2 into solid and you end up with a sock full of dry ice. When you use a CO2 extinguisher, the white cloud is the water from the air frozen into very small droplets encased in dry ice.
Int should be enough to put the pin in the freezer and the piston in the oven. But even that shouldn't be necessary if it's a floating pin assembly. If they are hard to get out its probably because of old gunk and dried oil.
01:59 I can't tell you how nostagic hearing that tune just made me feel! Fuck... has it really been 25 years?
Crazy isn’t it!
Heat the pistons with a hot air gun, I’m worried you may have damaged the big end bearings by knocking the pins out, you have put a large side/ twisting load into the soft bearings that are not designed for a load in that direction. Great channel, love it, keep up the fascinating content 👍👍
Трябваше да подложат дърво между шпилките и буталото,така нямаше да има натиск върху лагерите на коляновият вал..
Brilliant lads, fingers crossed for you that everything is interchangeable and, works ok🤞☺
The workings of engines and other things mechanical is a mystery to me, so why I am I so fascinated by this channel? Great stuff and good old down to earth British ingenuity, done with good humour, great surroundings and a beautiful dog supervising it all.
Só posso elogiar o trabalho de vocês são sensacional e que propuseram fazer dar o Tanque T-34 - Vida, esse foi Lendária à sua época da Segunda Guerra.
Minha gratidão eterna aos combatentes que seguem na eternidade.
Eu em Cuiabá - Mato Grosso / Brasil.
Absolutely love these videos on this military equipment, especially the tanks! Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
I think the holes in the crank webs are for big end pin removal/insertion. Keep up the good work.
Get a electric hotplate warm the piston and gudgeon pin will slide in
Probably moot now but I think @paulmccormick5042 has it right - the holes in the crank webs do look like they will line up with the pins with the crank out of the case, a clever little solution to this problem.
Loving the channel btw, I'm currently recovering from a hip op and am binge watching like crazy!
I note a number of other guys saying "use gear to lift bits like the injector body, don't lift by yourself". This is good advice so you don't wear out your joints and avoid injuries.
'When' you get an engine ready to run Joe, do you plan on wringing the oil out of your overalls to fill the sump? I think there'll be enough!
It's the done thing to put the pistons in boiling water to let them expand, then the gudgeon pins will slide in. 🙂
I'm glad I found your channel as there are not many out there showing this sort of stuff 👏
A detail I noticed that may or may not make a difference for the project. The crank looks like it is a built-up type with bolts running through the main and big-end bearing journals. Would taking the entire crank apart make the disassembly / assembly of the connecting rod big-ends any easier, or would it just make the work more complicated?
Absolutely impressed that you and Jack just get stuck into things like this without any fear.
Ref the "Merch". There has got to be a "I identify as a Foden" T shirt. I used al old Harley Davidson Piston as an ashtray for many years. They are ideal.
I am sat watching this with the all the faith in the world that should I ever have to fix a T35 block and engine I can sleep at night knowing I will be able to . And I am a carpet fitter ..... love that's guys
Top notch entertainment! Keep up the good work guys! :)
Great work team, looking forward to your next epic episode..
I must have to say, Mr Hewes, this channel's video and sound quality HAS improved enormously. Well done to your video Editor. Give that person a pay raise!
That would be myself 🤣
@@MrHewesWe don’t need to know his personal details just make sure he gets that raise
Plumbing pipe freeze kit , cheap, easy to come by and works a treat for shrinking things down. HTH
LOTS OF GREAT KNOWLEDGE! thanks' FOR SHARING! Good show old bean!
Music in this episode is what I like. Seems you got good taste
Praying for a speedy recovery❤❤❤
I think the heat method is the most likely. Remember the production of these tanks during the war was done in factories with the roof off and very basic equipment. Heat could be managed at all times of the year but cold probably only in winter. The factories were built up at the same time as the tanks as they were moved from areas of German incursion. Many were started up the crew doing up the last bolts and driven off to be armed and then onto the front line. That is dedication, desperation and a faith rarely seen elsewhere!
By the way, it was quite common to have aluminium blocks in the Gudgeon pins are to 475 hp Sunbeam engines we are rebuilding at the moment. I’m exactly the same system. Bit lighter than the Russian system though. Keep going you got a messy a job there. Have fun Michael
What a huge mess, but it looks like you guys got the solution, just got a put it into fruition. I have my complete confidence in you, and Jack.😊
Great videos guys. More tank parts please. Seeing how the machines work inside and how they are put together, cant get enough ;)
Can’t wait to hear the rebuilt engine run
Amazing you guys have hearts like lions and such a positive can do attitude. Just like Honey Badgers
Bring on the merchandise.
All this goodness AND Fatboy Slim?!?!?!?! What more could you need? :D
It's been a minute since I heard Fatboy Slim. Keep up the good work.
The T34 pistons all polished up would make a good table ornament and talking point!
T55. They need to re-use the T34 in the running engine.
Amazed at the damage on the engine and how well it started and run
Always lovely seeing you guys work
A legendary song for a legendary engine rebuild. Right here we have a broken motor and right now we will bring it back better then from the factory.
so this tank survived WWII and whatever Germany threw at it, suppressed attempted uprisings in eastern europe, kept stalin in power, the cold war, and neglectful ownership but it couldn't survive a few weeks at your shop? Congrats! you are the most dangerous thing this tank has ever faced xD love you guys!
Was looking forward to this one!
Mains caps on engines are line bored with the block. which means no 2 caps are the same. So if you put the caps from another engine on a different block, the bore won't be round. 😖
So get the cilinders, rods and pistons from the broken one and put those in the rusty one.
It isn't meant to drive halfway across the globe to Berlin..
I'm sure it will ride up with wear sir. (Quote from Mr Humphreys guide to engine building)
It’s not all rocket science 🤷♂️
As long as it’s machined properly to a certain tolerance (as it were)
It’ll be right enough to keep it running for a few years longer.
Yessssss I’m really OCD about things so i absolutely know what you are saying/meaning,,,, I also know that thing will run for a very long time and give little issues, it will live to see another generation 🙂
This is great fun, glad I just found this channel.
Awesome work guys
Exited for the running result 🙏
1:53 "unfortunately I've got Jack(Goose) here to help me" ... cue the music.... priceless 😄. Loving the more 'in-depth' videos...keep up the good work 👍
What a bonkers engine, it's a half tractor half aero hybrid, only the Soviets could have came up with that, thanks for the upload. loving the channel
I heard it would be an aero engine for bombers in the start of development 😅
@@Seregium I think you're right. You can see it in it's design... It's a thing of wonder
I did think that it must have origins in aircraft design when I saw the original video of the T34 unit being stripped for inspection.
@@paulluce2557 It's incredibly advanced for it's time especially for a diesel. I did some research, they still used a modified version of it today
Recently found your channel….brilliant. This is compulsive viewing for me. The inventive and creative approach to these mechanical challenges, all with good humour and antics is a true tonic. Many thanks.
I now it’s been said but quite rightly if u warm the pistons with a propane blow lamp don’t go mad around the piston skirt u will find it’s easy to remove and refit
That's an extremely well-designed engine. The way the conrods attach to the crank enables the barrels (sets of bores) on either side to be diametrically opposed to each other, presumably, so there'd be no need to cast 'handed' barrels for the left and right banks, therefore reducing production costs. In a standard design V engine, the pair of conrods would connect to each crank journal side by side, requiring the bores to be offset from one cylinder bank to the other. The main caps are also cross-bolted for additional strength. It would be interesting to compare this to the meteor (Merlin) bottom end.
Вы правы. Главное была технологичность производства и возможность производства в военное время на заводах без специального оборудования.
Another totally fascinating episode, sooooo looking forward to how the new engine will take shape. Thanks guys. 👍🏻😊
Ever since you started this T34 project I thought that there people in Russia and Ukraine doing more or less the same thing but with knowledge and manuals, I do wonder if those con rod caps hinge on the other pin? I love the way that you are not intimidated by any set back so keep up the great work.
They sadly don’t hinge
Great Channel, enjoy watching. Once you have "carefully" installed the good pistons onto the small ends of the connecting rods (please use a c-clamp to not beat an air chisel on the conn rod)...call anyone in your area that works on air-cooled VW engines, ( or Google it) they will be using a "breakaway ring compressor"...it might be too small for your pistons, but you will be able to see how it works and fabricate your own tool in the size you need. Turning the engine with the cylinder surface straight up level, start the cylinder/liner assembly onto the studs, wrap your custom ring compressor around the 2 pistons which are "highest" to the liner and start them in... repeat the process for 2 pistons at a time while also lowering the cylinder assembly down. I rebuilt my sisters VW bus engine in the driveway with a ring compressor fabricated from a piece of flat spring steel 50 years ago.
I am looking forward to when the 'patient' receives the new heart and moves into the recovery room. All good surgeons check their method until they are sure of being able to do it, then they give it a go. The next video will be fascinating!!!
Another top video..keep them coming......can't wait to see the next installment to getting the engine running....
Perfect just in time for a commute home.
😂😂😂😂
Cool... keep the series coming!
Awesome video thanks lads very much appreciated top job top team 🇬🇧
Another great video! Thanks for taking the time to do everything involved making videos!They’re extremely entertaining and you give insight and knowledge of working on tanks and such.
This is a fascinating process! Excited to hear merch is coming, I would love a "well that's mint, innit?" design.
Just found out the other day that T34 engines do not come cheap - they are one of the most expensive engines to get hold of
yes and no. Original, perhaps, but they do have some parts compatibility with other soviet tanks. THey're still big-bank V twins but they're not quite as expensive as stuff like Merlins or Meteors in the same categories.
The awkward pause before filming along with some choice tunes is your channel trademark.
The Stolly adventures reminds me of a UK techno group in the nineties called Altern8, that had some absolute breakbeat bangers and used to get around in a Stolly in their music videos :)
I was talking to Altern8's studio engineer yesterday afternoon
Lol, small world :) "Evapor8" (which has the Stolly in the video) and "Armagedon" were amongst my favourite tunes from them :)
For the piston pins heat up the blody piston with a torch and the pin will be free . On most russian diesels it a interference fit when cold . for instance the YAMZ 236 238 SMD 62 D247 engines
liquid nitrogen probably not easy to get a hold of but dry ice should be easy to source and well within the needs of your application...should be a lot more budget friendly as well. thanks for the vids
Hoodies with I identify as a Foden with an image of the truck or logos of sorts. Hoodies with the tank logo you often wear, include some catch phrases
nice work lads
Jim
The T55/T34 engine, 🤔 hope it works guys 🇬🇧😎
aah, brings back memories of my hire-car fixing days, except i swapped around old 70s cortina engine bits to get knackered 80s transits back on rent
you have a goldmine of mechanical merch there...
I approve of this episodes music ❤
I'm a pensioner, I disagree. Politely of course.
My grandfather worked at Rolls Royce Derby building and rebuilding both Merlin and Griffon engines, they would take scrap pistons and cut them through the gudgeon pin hole to make ashtrays, I still have his ashtray made from a Griffon piston!
Thanks guys just love your content.
Still waiting on an update to this! Your most interesting project IMO.
The plant where they were built was huge . All closed down now but an impressive building that still has the gantry cranes overhead
If you just lift the crank out of the main bearings a little, you will have enough room to knock the pins out. If the pistons do not interfere with the block. Looks like a nice engine, far better than the yanks have said. The machining looks quite nice.
Ted on hoody with an adjustment hammer in his chops
It looks like the rod caps are designed to swivel away from the crank after you remove the pin that does come out. Try it.
Yep those pistin pins are the same as the R3350 , floating pins with magnesium plugs in the ends, agree, just kiss them with a blow torch and they will push out , Great work lads.
Love the music choice right here, right now by Fatboy Slim
You drill a small(ish) hole in the center of the pin, make threads in it, screws in a bolt or a slide hammer and drag the pin out. To balance the pin (and the crank) again, you should fill it with with solder or weld until it is equally heavy as other pins.
Would like to see tee shirts, hoodies, multi tools, fleece jackets and mugs for sale.
We know you will get it up and running as you are so good 😉at fixing things. Has Jack been to RAF Cosford to get that flight suit and corporal stripes as they all look nice and clean and new which is unusual for Jack.😂
How about a couple shirts... "Jack TESTED, JACK APPROVED" or Jack broke it, Wasn't ME.
Great work guys...🇬🇧
Please more on this engine build up please!!!😊
Great video guys! Very interesting.
Re Merch, 'I identify as a Foden' Tee shirt has got to be in there!!
Have Halfords stopped doing Gold Seal reconditioned T34 engines?
Yeah les lunettes à Top gun 😂😉..... les gars meme si je vous comprend pas toujours.... vous avez de l'or dans les doigts ..'' !👌🤘
We used an electric hot plate to sweat the gudgeon pins in and out on Cummins pistons, doesn't take long they'll just drop out. Spin the pins up in a lathe and lap with crocus paper and paraffin to polish them. Reassemble in reverse.
old pistons are pressfit wrist pins. newer ones are clipped or pin buttoned in
that t-34 engine sudnt of run the state its in,just shows how tough they were tho,those engine parts will sell like hot cakes.ill be watching for them.excellent videos lads keep it going
Hi Joe, I know this is months after the event, but you stand the piston in a bucket of really hot water for a couple of minutes just before fitting on the Con Rod this warms it just enough to slide the gudgeon pin in easily.