@@FullThrottleRC I’ve been running what was recommended for the DRK 3.5t motor and DRK 160 which is 87/17 and i can only get it into the mid 2.5’s and thats playing with the stages on the Low Traction pre-set profile.
Interesting clip, I've just put a set of SSDs on my new DR10M . Do you glue the rears or just rely on the beadlocks ? I find alloys add stability at speed . Cheers .
@@FullThrottleRC absolutely not! And I will be getting a set of plastic beadlocks really Soon! What would you recommend 🤔 the Axis from Drag concepts? 🧐
I noticed you don't have the wheelie bar shock set up yet. There are two pieces that attach to the wheelie bar and the bottom of the rear body mount. They're in the kit,but they're not mentioned in the directions.
I saw the wheelie bar shock set that Associated released after I got the car but didn't notice any parts in my kit for it. Which parts are you referring to?
Make sure to sand the inside of the bead on the aluminum a bit so the glue has something to grab onto. I used the "rubber" CA glue and haven't had any problems since
See I need to upgrade to these aluminum beadlocks. Every plastic wheel I've ever put on my custom 2wd slash simply strips, usually within 1 hour of drive time. Simply too much torque and acceleration for plastic to handle. my top end is only about 55mph. But I have a 4600kv castle mamba combo and I geared it down a good deal for more torque so it launches like a rocket.
I will say I've never had any issues with tires blowing off with the SSD beadlocks. But I've also only had tires come off of the proline split six beadlocks maybe 2 or 3 times and my car has been to 70 mph. Haven't stripped the center hexes on either.
@@FullThrottleRC Yeah I've never had a tire blow off, just stripped wheel hexes. Both on quality proline badlands and Traxxas drag wheels. I'm running 3s. Do you run 3s or 2s on this build? I also got a diff locker after I got tired of replacing my diff for the 3rd time. Even got the upgraded hotracing aluminum diff case, but the gears still couldn't handle the power.
@@LogainTheHumane I run 2s as that's what most of the standard no prep or street eliminator rules allow. Look into the drag slash transmission if you want to stick with the slash stuff. It's supposed to be a lot strong than typical slash gears
@@FullThrottleRC Makes sense. I don't try to compete I just bash for fun. So I go for maximum power and speed. As it is I'm already running a hot racing aluminum transmission. Needed it for the heat dissipation.
Just wondering why you don't use glue on rears. I've used those same Pro-Line bead locks on my short course trucks for years but they are quite a bit heavier still than plastic glue rims. Rotational weight is indeed a big deal even in the 1:1 world.
Mainly because I knew from the beginning when I started building a drag car that I'd likely need to change tires often. And while I know there are ways to remove glued tires, it's always been a pain. Add that to the bead locks just giving a cooler look and I just always stuck with them.
I have a set of reactions, although not the blue compound, and didn't notice a difference in weight between them. Not without putting it on the scales anyway. I've had good luck with the Axis so I went back with them. Maybe when I go through these sets I'll try the reactions again.
@@FullThrottleRC yea you are right i just checked my previous axis and are same as blue reactions in weight my bad 😅 but anyway if u have a chance try the blue compound reactions once when you have finished with the axis. I had better luck with the blue dots it does make difference "softer" but keep up the content bro 😎😁🍻
I'm seeing ETs in the 75MPH range. Why is your car still kicking 60s? It should be way faster than that. Especially after spending all that money on a purpose built hot rod!!!!
I'd love to see 70s and higher, working towards that. If I knew the answer to why my car isn't running that fast, I'd already be in the 70s. It's all about testing and tuning to get there. Improving every time out. I'll get there
Nice video am a newbie also drive tractor trailers over the road so I like to try n get to events all over..I bought a pair of those aluminum rims an a pair of plastic black chrome for dr10 with 69 nova body also have a v.w.beetle body..like a dum ass I thought I could just throw n glue em on apparently not.i guess I need the beedlock thing..you make em...you sell em? Thx
Thanks! I'm not sure what part you're talking about for those wheels. The only way you'll need a beadlock ring is if you bought beadlocks and they should've came with rings. If it's the wheels I'm thinking, you'll just have to glue your tires on
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Congratulations on the new PB
tomorrow I will take delivery of my Drag Slash and will start tuning
Thank you!! And awesome!! Good luck
@@FullThrottleRC thanks
The Colin Chapman theory of speed holds even more true to scale.
"Simplify, and add lightness."
Yep, unfortunately as much as I like the SSD bead locks, even that little added weight hurt us enough
Great info! I was looking for exactly this info!
Awesome! Thank you
Awesome video. Good info on the DRK, I'm still learning mine. I believe you said you were running a 90t spur with what size pinion? Thanks
Thanks! I'm actually running a 84t spur and 20-21t pinion
@@FullThrottleRC thanks a lot my friend
@@FullThrottleRC I’ve been running what was recommended for the DRK 3.5t motor and DRK 160 which is 87/17 and i can only get it into the mid 2.5’s and thats playing with the stages on the Low Traction pre-set profile.
Keep up amazing Informative videos with real test results showing
Thanks for the support! These are the videos I enjoy making!
Interesting clip, I've just put a set of SSDs on my new DR10M . Do you glue the rears or just rely on the beadlocks ?
I find alloys add stability at speed . Cheers .
I never glued tires with beadlocks. Never really had any issues with the SSD wheels either
Great video! I have dame ssd rims..now u have me thinking I need plastic beadlock! Hahaha love it
Thank you!! I love them, don't get me wrong. Just seeing that improvement from only shedding that few grams can't be ignored
@@FullThrottleRC absolutely not! And I will be getting a set of plastic beadlocks really Soon! What would you recommend 🤔 the Axis from Drag concepts? 🧐
@@herefishyfishy8582 I didn't know drag race concepts made a beadlock wheel. I run Proline Split Six
@@FullThrottleRC oops I thought they where beadlocks there not. Ima try those proline ones for shure
I noticed you don't have the wheelie bar shock set up yet. There are two pieces that attach to the wheelie bar and the bottom of the rear body mount. They're in the kit,but they're not mentioned in the directions.
I saw the wheelie bar shock set that Associated released after I got the car but didn't notice any parts in my kit for it. Which parts are you referring to?
ruclips.net/video/A2FUiiydmng/видео.html
My quick video of the two pieces in the kit.
Hello ypu said the analyzer is 2 10ths slower. than what a protree or ?
Yes, most GNSS analyzers are about 2 tenths slower than a normal tree
What springs and fluid are you or were you running?
Check out the most recent suspension video on the channel. I have all the details of my suspension setup in there.
How do you glue the front ssd aluminum front wheels? Having trouble with mine
Make sure to sand the inside of the bead on the aluminum a bit so the glue has something to grab onto. I used the "rubber" CA glue and haven't had any problems since
@@FullThrottleRC thanks I’ll give it a try n update!
Good video!
Thank You!!
See I need to upgrade to these aluminum beadlocks. Every plastic wheel I've ever put on my custom 2wd slash simply strips, usually within 1 hour of drive time. Simply too much torque and acceleration for plastic to handle. my top end is only about 55mph. But I have a 4600kv castle mamba combo and I geared it down a good deal for more torque so it launches like a rocket.
I will say I've never had any issues with tires blowing off with the SSD beadlocks. But I've also only had tires come off of the proline split six beadlocks maybe 2 or 3 times and my car has been to 70 mph. Haven't stripped the center hexes on either.
@@FullThrottleRC Yeah I've never had a tire blow off, just stripped wheel hexes. Both on quality proline badlands and Traxxas drag wheels. I'm running 3s. Do you run 3s or 2s on this build? I also got a diff locker after I got tired of replacing my diff for the 3rd time. Even got the upgraded hotracing aluminum diff case, but the gears still couldn't handle the power.
@@LogainTheHumane I run 2s as that's what most of the standard no prep or street eliminator rules allow.
Look into the drag slash transmission if you want to stick with the slash stuff. It's supposed to be a lot strong than typical slash gears
@@FullThrottleRC Makes sense. I don't try to compete I just bash for fun. So I go for maximum power and speed. As it is I'm already running a hot racing aluminum transmission. Needed it for the heat dissipation.
Just wondering why you don't use glue on rears. I've used those same Pro-Line bead locks on my short course trucks for years but they are quite a bit heavier still than plastic glue rims. Rotational weight is indeed a big deal even in the 1:1 world.
Mainly because I knew from the beginning when I started building a drag car that I'd likely need to change tires often. And while I know there are ways to remove glued tires, it's always been a pain. Add that to the bead locks just giving a cooler look and I just always stuck with them.
Makes sense.
@@FullThrottleRC
Looking for help tuning thr drk with its logs in conjunction with a gnss
Check out this video
ruclips.net/video/jA487sdQl3M/видео.html
Any way of chatting with you directly. Moving into a car very similar to yours from dual motor sand dragsters
You can message me on Instagram
What's gps are you using?
I use the GNSS performance analyzer from SkyRC
Do you make those beadlocks to sell.
I do make the rings. You can email me if you're interested in ordering
Man i have my punch at 80% maybe i should back it down on my next test.
Yea once I learned what it actually did I haven't been above about 45%
2.1x -2.xx if you get it to stay straight all the way down the track
Yep. I also fully believe the car would be faster just on a better road!
Hmmmmm interesting. I think i may lower the punch on my DRK, this may help with my "squirrly" launches. Mine is currently at 45%....
I need to back down just a bit but I was very impressed with how the car launched as I went higher with the punch.
Now are the tires prep. Just got dr10m and want to get it going lol.
i have lightend my SSD rims to a total weight fully assembled of 112grams, my rims instead of the 89grams now weigh 74 grams
Awesome!! Did you go about drilling the walls similar to how the lightweight SSD wheels are?
@@FullThrottleRC yes sir they match exactly to the lightweighted cuts.
Should've went with proline blue dots thpse axis tires are heavy
I have a set of reactions, although not the blue compound, and didn't notice a difference in weight between them. Not without putting it on the scales anyway. I've had good luck with the Axis so I went back with them. Maybe when I go through these sets I'll try the reactions again.
@@FullThrottleRC yea you are right i just checked my previous axis and are same as blue reactions in weight my bad 😅 but anyway if u have a chance try the blue compound reactions once when you have finished with the axis. I had better luck with the blue dots it does make difference "softer" but keep up the content bro 😎😁🍻
👍
😁
I would like to purchase 3d printed beadlocks
For orders you can contact me through the email address on my channel page. Thanks!
@FullThrottleRC what is that email I couldn't find it thanks
Those stainless screws weigh a bit too
On the Split Six? Might have to get some different ones and test out the difference 🤔
I'm seeing ETs in the 75MPH range. Why is your car still kicking 60s? It should be way faster than that. Especially after spending all that money on a purpose built hot rod!!!!
I'd love to see 70s and higher, working towards that. If I knew the answer to why my car isn't running that fast, I'd already be in the 70s. It's all about testing and tuning to get there. Improving every time out. I'll get there
Nice video am a newbie also drive tractor trailers over the road so I like to try n get to events all over..I bought a pair of those aluminum rims an a pair of plastic black chrome for dr10 with 69 nova body also have a v.w.beetle body..like a dum ass I thought I could just throw n glue em on apparently not.i guess I need the beedlock thing..you make em...you sell em?
Thx
Thanks! I'm not sure what part you're talking about for those wheels. The only way you'll need a beadlock ring is if you bought beadlocks and they should've came with rings. If it's the wheels I'm thinking, you'll just have to glue your tires on