RC No Prep Weight Talk | Can we Balance Weight with Suspension??
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2022
- After my last few RC No Prep Drag Racing videos, I've gotten a bunch of comments from you guys. Ranging from encouragement to congratulations, to tips and advice. I go through everything and sometimes I'm really hesitant to try things, like the weight I tried in the last video, so I decided I wanted to see what else I could try that you guys suggested.
A theme that stuck out to me what weight balance. Getting the car to be as close as possible to 50/50 front and rear balanced. And without adding more weight to the front, that's tough, but a few of you commented about suspension adjustments to correct this.
After not finding any information online I decided to just start trying a couple things. So today we're talking about weight. A lot. And a few of the things I learned about weight and tuning and suspension adjustments in RC Street Outlaw drag racing!!
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Развлечения
The weight move is transfer weight - it will not show on the scale for the car is not moving!!!
people that know how to tune do this before adding weight - for you can get weight on the tire without adding unnecessary weight!!! For example if you run less kick up in the front it will transfer less weight rearward. If you run more anti squat in the rear it will keep weight forward - and push rear tire harder into the ground. If you run a stiffer spring less weight is transferred to that side but the weight that gets on the stiff spring transfers more wight to the tire. If you lay the shock down you will have more weight tranfer left to right but usually dose not transfer to the tire as well for the spring is softer. Stand-up shock transfer less weight (left to right) but the weight get to the tire and more responsive (like a hard spring).
!!!The best way!!! simply lowering the weight in the car (center of gravity) will tranfer less weight to the rear!!! so the tall batteries could be hurting you - try run a lower profile battery and add weight lower. Then you can run less weight in the front for more speed!!!
Some of your points I do agree with but I don't completely understand the not wanting the weight to shift to the rear that you're talking about to agree. When launching off the line, we want that weight to transfer to the rear. Not too fast, but weight transferring to the rear allows it to put it to the tire like you mentioned to be able to put down more power. Sort of like the full scale drag cars, we're trying to get the balance of the car around 50/50 front and rear, so as the car leaves it can settle down and put the power down. Ideally, taking that extra weight off the front would be nice but we'd have to find a way to move some of the weight in the rear, forward to balance it off since all of the electronics are in the rear.
Facts the heavy weight worked for me as well!!! Dude keep listening and tuning I'm on the same journey!! Trial and error...
Yep, the trial and error has been a lot of fun though!! Can't complain, I'm enjoying it.
Something that one could also do is the rake of the car, by having less negative rake and softer suspension the weight will transfer to the back when accelerating!
Awesome video Brother. I really enjoy watching Your videos. I'm just getting started on building my first nprc car and I'm learning so much while I'm watching Your videos Brother. Thank You so much for sharing this information with us Brother.
Awesome!!! Thank you, I enjoy helping people out however I can.
Niiiiiice video
Dats wat I'm talking about sir.. please keep them coming.i finally got my dr10m so yessir.. good stuff my man
Thanks for the support!! More coming soon!
30 secs in and ik it’s gonna be a banger!!
Hahaha thanks!!!!
Very interesting I got some good ideas
Hope the project you have in the making is a slash, if it's not I will still be here to learn more and more
Nope, no slash. I can say it is 2wd though...
Slash base chassis to the front...
Great video if I was you stop all the extension on the front shocks limited to your ride height make that sprung weight instantly weight on the hit.. through the rear end shock oil and spring will depend on your hinge pin angle whether you're using neutral separation or SWAT do not use squat ... it is an optical illusion it is actually sucking the tire up in the fender well ,weight bias move all the components you can to the front so you don't have to add weight to the car hitting the bar so hard and cause unloading . as your traction goes up you will need more weight bias shoot for somewhere around 50/50 as your traction goes up ...great job man keep at it I promise you'll get there..
Thanks for all the great tips. I'm getting close to around 50/50 now, and seeing improvements constantly!!
Morbo racing sells a nice servo mount that moves the servo behind the shock tower and you can move battery more forward.
🤔
I definitely need to do some weight distribution on my DR10. I may have to invest in one of those skyrc scales.
They have some bluetooth ones now as well. I'd look into those so you don't have to deal with all the wires.
@@FullThrottleRC ooooh noice. Ill look into it. 👍🏻
So I was messing around w my DR10M not long ago and noticed the there’s movement at the rear hubs. They slide forward on the pin that’s holding them in. You can use shims to remove that slack and the car is super straight now. Same shims that are used for removing slacking of the diff in crawlers
I'll have to look into that. Don't think I've ever noticed that, thanks!
Also, using the DR10/ProSC10 front shock tower is a huge upgrade. It’s around 13mm taller so it allows to get the front end low. Internally limit the rear travel to proper height. Even can limit the front to really slam the chassis. Made my passes faster and has great control. Can’t wait to see some more drag car videos you are one of the few guys actually giving advice/ setup suggestions.
Ass far as I know you can not move weight from front to rear or vice versa but add or reduce weight dijagonali.
To understand you need to think tgat you have a stool with four legs and one of the legs is shorter or longer so the weight will be transferd to the leg touching the ground, same with the car the wheel touching the ground will have the most pressure on it so you need to lift of the ground slightly until you find a balance with all wheels touching the ground!
I run 2k 8pound springs in the front and 3k 7 pound springs 49% front and 51% rear. I have my battery pushed all the way to the front. I run the r1dc1.
That chassis is really nice!!!
Just built it. Running 4pole r1 esc and motor. 1.88 at 79mph on gnss
Move weight around by using the threaded shock collars. Only reason they're there. No it doesn't remove weight obviously but it moves it where you want it.
I tried adding preload in the rear, it didn't change anything. Actually the actual weight in grams was exactly the same with 1/4" of preload on both rear shocks.
@@FullThrottleRC I use this method before every test/ race day. I'd guess your anti roll bar is hindering the process. Remove it and try again. The most important part is just balancing rear left to right
@@FullThrottleRC another thing to keep in mind is that if you have one front tire binding or limited unevenly you'll cause one to lift more than the other and steer the car at speed.
Hey my guy... hope all is well any dr10m videos coming soon???
I'm planning on filming one this weekend. Been having a lot of fun projects going on but look for one in the next couple weeks!
I’ve done 1k diff fluid in front and 2k in the rear… it was ok, but went back to 30wt / 80wt
After the research I've done, I will try the 3k diff fluid in the rear but I'm pretty happy with my setup now honestly.
How come you don't have your front shocks vertical instead of at an angle? Like your rear shocks
I didn't feel the fronts needed the same movement as the rear and it was also more difficult to create a mount for the shocks to work the same for the front so I never did make one
I have baja 8s and i have One problem The wheels dont grip
The problem is that the battery and the motor are on top of each other. With this movement, I put the largest weight on the rear wheels to give me the best grip on the wheels.
Sure it is a wheelie but I put a well bar and this problem solved
( But still the wheels spin without grip )
But>>>>>
Who says move the battery forward, didn't he think about the grip of the rear wheels? Or is there something I don't understand?
The point of moving the battery forward is to balance the car more and help set the nose down quicker. Although wheelies are cool, the slow the car down really. The longer the front wheels are in the air, the more resistance you have as the wind catches under the car and doesn't pass over it. Also you can't steer with the front wheels in the air. So by moving the weight forward, we try to tame down the lifting of the front end. It'll still wheelie which means we're still getting grip to the rear wheels, but we want to control the car bettter.
@@FullThrottleRC Well it makes sense, I'll give it a try 👍🏼💙
Nyc thing you have but there is something missing and I do really like to add contribution which can help loading more weight and you can load 2 to 3 times more weight.
I'm sorry I don't understand what you're referring to. Are you saying I can add more weight? Cause I don't really want to add more weight to the car, just want to get it further balanced. Closer to 50/50 front/rear.
Only thing I can see is under power suspension adjustments is going to transfer the weight to diff parts the car.
Yep, we want the weight transfer. It helps plant the back tires and gives tractions. It's a balance trying not to transfer too much though and blow the tires off!
Can you lower the front end any and raise the back end a little this may help transfer a little weight to the front
I wouldn't want to lower the front much more as it would start to drag the ground.
wheel weight is the easiest way to make more power. Less drivetrain weight frees up power.
We'll see soon just how much that weight in the wheels is worth!!
What wheels and tires you running?
Trash the arb and go with 4 trans spacers
I'm running the factory recommended two spacers as of now. What is the "arb" you're talking about?