I like how there is always plenty of working room in attics on these projects. My attic is over 10’ in the center but where my fan needed to be we had 5’ clearance 🙄 nothing ends up easy
Vent flex pipe should have insulation wrapped around it from fan housing to connection for outside vent. Cold attic and warm moist air going up from the bathroom fan when showering up through the pipe will cause condensation, over time will drip and soak attic insulation will cause mold & mildew over time Also NEVER WRAP REGULAR DUCT TAPE AT CONNECTIONS, USE ALUMIUM TAPE. I also like to use hose clamps after wrapping tape around the connections. DO NOT over tighten hose clamps, just make them snug.
@@POLOAZTECAThe added cost of the insulated duct, SS screws, real duct tape and not crappy duck tape would be less than about $20 and would last decades. I was really surprised to see some of the techniques this guy used, as they were not professional and an embarrassment to ATOH. I’m and experienced amateur and spotted these mistakes (and more).
You don't need a separate switch/timer for the fan or to cut another hole in the wall. You can replace the existing switch with one that has also a built-in timer so when you turn on the light the fan automatically comes on and stays on for a number of minutes after you turn off the light.
This fan works very well. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I replaced my old fan as our radon levels began to spike. When I remove the old fan water poured out of the fan. Must have entered in through the out spout. Replaced with this unit and levels dropped a bit but still over 4.0.Did some more digging and found that we had a small hole under our waste pipe that was allowing some water and radon in.Patched the hole and the levels dropped almost overnight.I really would recommend the radon sensor. It gives real time readings. Without it we would have never known that we had this issue.
Just replaced an old exhaust fan from original build of house from 1969. It had plain old duct tape. Still working great after about 50yrs on the connections. It did what it needed to do and outlasted the life of the fan. It was still sticky and I think it would last another 50yrs if only the fan would only last as long as the duct tape lol!
I strongly doubt there is a local code that would favor fabric over metal tape. The reverse is possible, but in general I think code only requires securing joints with screws, sealing them is likely above and beyond.
Everyone the above comment is correct about aluminum foil tape! That is the tape you should be using with duct work. Duct tape is cloth based and it will dry rot and loose adhesion and come loose over time. I verified this with a friend who is an HVAC contractor and he said all you are suppose to use is aluminum foil tape or duct putty. I have even seen the end results of someone using duct tape to seal duct work in my own house. We purchased a house where the HVAC ducts were sealed in the above manner and most of the tape was dried out and failing. So, I had to tear all that old tape off and get a bucket of duct putty from my friend and paint the joints to seal them correctly.
He used sheetrock screws to mount the vent outside. Those screws will rust in no time. It's time people stop using sheetrock screws for everything especially outside.
Must use insulated 4" duct to exhaust fan. Also use foil tape instead of duct tape. Duct tape is only good for kidnappings in my opinion. There will be a call-back here when the fan starts dripping condensation.
Maxid1 I wish This Old House took there own advice. I saw an episode a wile ago where they fixed what was thought to be a roof leak and it turned out to be condensation inside the vet hose from no insulation around it.
attic insulation for the purpose of thermal protection, yes!! Can of great stuff around the seams of that fan for air sealing first! Re apply existing insulation, three and not least insulate duct work to avoid condensation coming back to fan
There were a lot of important steps you missed. For instance, check with your local municipality if you need a permit. Non-permitted work isn't covered by home owners insurance and can make renting/selling tough. 2nd, before cutting the drywall, put something on the floor to collect the dust. Third, blue duct tape instead of foil tape? Fourth, non insulated duct in an attic? Fifth, he totally skipped over the wiring of that box. He bypasses the light switch in the instruction and then shows it magically with the switch at the end, which meant he rewired it off camera... That's a really important part that can cause fires/shorts...
When you tighten the Romex connector down on the Romex... Make sure not to tighten it too hard and pinch the wires enough to make a direct short. Tighten just enough to hold the wires firmly in place. If you tighten them too hard it will pinch through the insulation.... Ask me how I know. Hahaha
To connect two gang boxes together it must be screwed from the outside of the boxes. How did he connect the new and the old gang boxes without taking the old one out of the wall?
Really foil tape is almost the same price as duct tape..... you never use duct tape on ducts. And yes, you should look at all the people who actually do this for a living. Not an electrician. You don’t go to the dentist to get your eyes checked....
probably because it's laying flat in the attic and since it's flex duct, if condensation is a problem (which it probably will be) he can just create a slope in the run of the duct out to the exterior
Used a dryer duct? Suppose to be insulated flex duct thru a attic. Hot warm humid air will be going thru the duct in a non conditioned attic. Pipe will be sweating, causing condensation, water dripping.
Again. If you run bathroom exhaust ducts vertical moisture and condensation will run straight back down dripping right back into the bathroom. Horizontal ducting is SOP for this set up in cold climate. The minor condensation that builds up in the pipe will evaporate.
To go thru roof is way more trouble than a side wall vent. Plus increased chance of a leak. Ideally if you have a ( Y ) duct split. In. The exhaust vent line somewhere about midway of the entire run you would have an excellent exhausting system. But who wants to cut a hole in the roof and in the side wall to vent air from the washroom. I seldom see contractors do things exactly the same way. There's always thing's done a bit differently between contractors. It's just that each person thinks that their way is better.
There's a template that comes with this Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan but the installer here didn't use it. Also, the vent immediately takes a 90º turn outside the fan. This is a mistake because it makes the air that much more difficult to make its way outside.
@electicIron Okay... So if I am going to exhaust the duct towards my wall, and not my roof, and the exhaust opening in the fan opens towards my wall... theoretically, I could just run the insulated duct straight with the joist to the vent in the wall... Correct? (If this doesn't help, I could try again)
If you look carefully you'll see a screw inside in the bottom. Instead of going from the outside in (through the hole then threaded hole) he screwed from the inside out (through threaded hole then the regular hole). Best it'll do is hold it where it needs to be but it will be floppy.
datguy807, I had the same question. I use these boxes all the time in commercial buildings. You can’t gang them together properly without screwing them together from the bottom...which he doesn’t have access to. This video is garbage
For any DIYers watching, DONT use duct tape like this guy. That is not made for ducting- it will fall off months from now and not air seal your joints. Use foil tape.
Very outdated. The duct tape will dry out and fall off. The lack of insulation on the hose will cause moisture to condense and drip back down the fan...
@@Usonian7 Are you sure that is not because you don't want that much moisture soaking the fan? I have seen bathroom fan instructions that say don't place fixture directly above shower.
@@Usonian7 I think they were worried about getting water from the shower into the fan. If it is on the outside of the shower area it would only get condensation.
Whoa. 30 year builder here and a building inspector. As stated below in the comments that exposed flex pipe is going to condensate like crazy and drip down onto your insulation and ceiling sheetrock/plaster. MAKE SURE you purchase the insulated ventilation pipe for bathroom ventilation passing through a space that is not climate controlled. Condensation can cause extensive water damage. Good day friends!!
It depends. In a hot climate like Sacramento, with a ridge vent and soffet vents, it almost never is a problem with condensation. I've seen exhaust fans that just dump air into the attic, and no problems whatsoever.
Foil tape, not blue duct tape (rated for cold my ass). Duct should go straight up through the roof if possible. As few bends as possible. Certainly shouldn't be venting horizontal to the intake. Ducting also needs to be wrapped in insulation to prevent condensation which will lead to mold and/or water damage.
This should be the top comment, exactly right. Always better to vent through the roof when possible, always use an insulated pipe in non-conditioned space, and always use foil tape for ventilation connections.
In cold weather applications moisture condenses and guess what happens when you have vertical exhaust ducts? That condensation runs back down when the fan is not operating. This isnt rocket science gents.
Your recommendations go against most fan manufacturers instructions. Every fan I've installed in the past 10 years has a horizontal, slightly downward angled initial run so that there's a drip loop by default. This eliminates any possibilities of water re-entering the living space. Not that there should be any condensation left in the ducting if the fan is being used properly with a timer. The best possible place to vent is always the shortest possible run to the outside, considering where the warm moist air will end up as it rises. In this case, the roof is the obvious best choice, as running the additional 10-15 feet of duct as seen in this video significantly increases drag, making the fan less efficient. Using a short run directly out the roof decreases the surface area that the moist air will come in contact with, which of course reduces drag and the amount of condensation that can build up in the first place. Also, thanks for the childish name-calling. You seem like an extremely professional individual.
Sam Morgan in Canada, we have over 2feet snow on the roof in winter, I installed my bathroom fan through the gable wall, going through the roof is not recommended here.
Pros would start the hole saw on the outside, run it about 1/2 way or at least score the wood, then drill from the inside to prevent that massive chunk of wood from coming out. I'd not only be irritated if a contractor did this to my house but I'd make them fix it. I'd also never approve that tape job. Silvia and Holmes would never let this footage air unless it was a "how not to" video. Norm would most likely (and politely) stop you ahead of the mistake and you and show you the proper way. Heck, even that young man with the perma smile they had on this old house knows better. Bet he learned a lot pallin' around with Abrams, Silva and that plumber guy, Tommy?
Tom Silva actually did the same thing in a similar video. He drilled straight through the roof without drilling or scoring from the inside. He just got lucky no wood was chipped. Maybe his bit was newer and sharper. But yes, Tommy did it better. He vented to the roof, used caulking to seal the vent outside, used insulated duct, and used metal tape.
Moisture in an attic isn't usually a priblem with a bath vent un a place such as Sacramento. When it gets 100° in the attic in Nivember, moisture just burns right off. If the attic is vented with ridge and blocking vents, there is really no problem.
Is it just the version I’m watching or does dude never show turning off the breaker to this switch? Seems like that would be important to include in an instructional video. Cuz if it ain’t in this particular video some novice is going to heaven
Get two small round magnets and put one on either side of the damper at the bottom not to prevent it from closing. This will add the small amount of weight needed on that light plastic damper to keep it from fluttering.
@@deaconblues87 If there was a grounding conductor provided with the feed, it would have to be connected directly with the switched wires. By code, even if it was bx or mc, neither are an accepted form of grounding, although I would have to admit that it's better than nothing.
How did you fit the new fan into the ceiling with the exhaust extending out? Video jumps to you saying slide this in place but doesn't show how it was accomplished, see time 3:30 on video.
Great vid! Can anyone give me advice if a bathroom fan can be used as an exhaust fan in the kitchen? I live in a small studio apt, and just have a countertop and sink next to it. I have a 2 burner hot plate on the counter...but no exhaust fan. About 3 feet above the counter top is a long cabinet. I am thinking of installing an exhaust fan , and running a 8 ft duct to my window....just wondering if a small bathroom exhaust fan could be used for this?
What about fan placement? You have it a little forward of the John, so when you do number two you will get a good whiff of what you dealt. Over the tank will pull the air flow away from your nose. That’s how the set them up in department stores. 😝
@@stephensnell5707 Ummm… yeah. Watch the end of the video the toilet is further than where they placed the fan, so even less moisture! Why do you think I’m saying to mount the fan in the shower??!!! I’m not!!! But yeah the center of the bathroom is right in front of the toilet so it can draw that yummy burger you had for yesterday’s lunch, so you can enjoy it again. 😜
This work is amateur all around. insulation is key. Not to mention the likely hood of asbestos in the plaster and the remnants old attic insulation under the fiberglass that is also asbestos. Have fun!
Save your fingers and get a tape smoother! After using one of these on metal tape, you'll never go back! And the real bonus is that it pushes out all of the air bubbles and is a bear to peel it off. www.bakerdist.com/avery-dennison-adsq50-tape-squeeze-scrapper-tape-smoother--3ff5809
Hello, When we had our roof replaced a year ago, I had the roofers install goose neck roof cap vents over the bathrooms with plans to install exhaust fans. Problem is, I wasn't specific with installing the type that allows you to attached duct work to it. So it's a square whole like a standard vent to air out the attic. It would cost $800 to get both exhaust vents replaced. I've been told by several folks (even AC contractor) that this actually common and people either just shove the duct work inside the vent OR they use duct board a trunk line to seal and create something the duct work can attach to. I'd rather do it that way otherwise the roofers would have to tear out the vent they installed and install a new one and that's an additional cost. Any suggestions?
I'm glad this is 9 years ago because this video is full of mistakes that even rookies can see. I hope whole installation got fixed before any major damage occurred.
I do enjoy watching This Old House, But over the years I have noticed that when they are working in the attic it is one that you can walk in. How about working in one that you have to crawl and work around all the roof rafters. This would be in an old ranch home, I do know they are just showing how things are done.
THINGS DONE WRONG IN THIS VIDEO: 1. He made the duct unnecessarily long by insisting on venting it through wall (which he never explained why) rather than the roof, and... 2. He did not insulate the duct. During cold weather, the exposed metal duct will allow water to accumulate inside the duct, pool up at the lowest points, and leak causing mold and water damage to the ceiling and drip down onto the bathroom floor from the fan. 3. He should have used FOIL tape, when securing these metal ducts together. 4. Did a crappy job with the hole saw. Splintered the wood inside. Didn't seal/insulate around the hole after the duct was installed.
He put it through the gable wall because the rule of thumb is to not put holes in the roof if it isn't necessary. Since the gable wall was just a little further than the roof, it made sense to go with the gable wall.
1. On exhaust vents that evacuate moisture you dont run the ducting vertical. Condensation and moisture buildup will run back down when the fan is not running. 2. You are correct the pipe should have been insulated. 3. Foil tape is expensive and not required for use by code. If you choose to use it, great. If not duct tape is an adequate substitute that will outlast the exhaust fan. 4. Correct.
You didn't insulate the exhaust duct. I just had to pay $3000.00 to rid my attic of mold because that same duct wasn't insulated. Wrong Wrong. You have to use double wall pipe or insulate it. Wrong!!!
+James Weidner - Same problem here, exhaust pipe travels 6' straight up from ceiling uninsulated in a cold attic (Canada). Moisture condenses on the cold pipe and drips down to the fan (huge electrical fire risk, I have repaired fire-damaged homes with the exact same problem). Save yourself the heartache and get a device purpose built for the problem, purchase a dehumidifier with a timer.
Yeah that exhaust duct work should have been insulated. The warm exhausted air can cause condensation inside the attic space during the winter months. This can create a mold situation or at worst create an ice dam. Both bad situations...
I like how there is always plenty of working room in attics on these projects. My attic is over 10’ in the center but where my fan needed to be we had 5’ clearance 🙄 nothing ends up easy
Right! You can park a Buick in these attics.
Preach.
New england has real attics
Vent flex pipe should have insulation wrapped around it from fan housing to connection for outside vent. Cold attic and warm moist air going up from the bathroom fan when showering up through the pipe will cause condensation, over time will drip and soak attic insulation will cause mold & mildew over time Also NEVER WRAP REGULAR DUCT TAPE AT CONNECTIONS, USE ALUMIUM TAPE. I also like to use hose clamps after wrapping tape around the connections. DO NOT over tighten hose clamps, just make them snug.
An insulated flex pipe is a must!!!
How much would you charge for all that because it goes from something quick and simple to needing more material and time to get it done right!
@@POLOAZTECAThe added cost of the insulated duct, SS screws, real duct tape and not crappy duck tape would be less than about $20 and would last decades. I was really surprised to see some of the techniques this guy used, as they were not professional and an embarrassment to ATOH. I’m and experienced amateur and spotted these mistakes (and more).
oh. that's it. looks so fkn easy, I'm glad my wife purchased this can't wait to fuk up the install and burn my house down.
Best RUclips home improvement video comment ever!
use gas it took my house down in less than 45 minutes...lol
I can hardly fit through my attic door think a midget built this house
lmao my thoughts exactly!!
🤣🤣🤣
You don't need a separate switch/timer for the fan or to cut another hole in the wall.
You can replace the existing switch with one that has also a built-in timer so when you turn on the light the fan automatically comes on and stays on for a number of minutes after you turn off the light.
I mean I dont want the fan tied to the light. Sometimes I want the light on and no fan
@@SpencerKaup Use a top-and-bottom/dual switch.
Sent the fish tape down the wall, then came down and pulled the wire from the attic down. Magic
Yeah, I caught that too. That's the "beauty" of video/editing.
HHS69 I love how there’s people out there with an eye of precision.
What was magic about that? He pulled the fish tape out first, and then the Romex came out next because it was taped to the line.
Leonard Hoyt watch it again
Lmao.
"Wow, its so quiet."
Forgets to turn breaker back on.
Well she IS blonde...
Wasn't even on😂😂😂
The name of this guy's company should be called, "fly by night" handyman services, LOL 😆
This fan works very well. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I replaced my old fan as our radon levels began to spike. When I remove the old fan water poured out of the fan. Must have entered in through the out spout. Replaced with this unit and levels dropped a bit but still over 4.0.Did some more digging and found that we had a small hole under our waste pipe that was allowing some water and radon in.Patched the hole and the levels dropped almost overnight.I really would recommend the radon sensor. It gives real time readings. Without it we would have never known that we had this issue.
Ducting that runs through the attic should always be insulated to prevent condensation. Rookie move kemosabe
Good thing the duct tape is rated for cold weather though 😆
It depends on the climate. When it's warm and very warm year round, it is not necessary. Moisture will not condense when it's 150° in the attic.
Not code in TX.
5:41
the decorative cover hahah loved that. you made this look simple. thank you
@4:59 when he ripped the entire hole out haha messed up bad
I love a good blooper but I don't see what you mean. He wasn't trying to cut that big of hole?
Rookie mistakes aside, he should be grateful that he had Wanda with him at the beginning to help locate that metal box 👍 @0:17
Very helpful. She also cut the wire @ 1:15
@@Virtualmix Don't forget putting the insulation back 5:33
Just replaced an old exhaust fan from original build of house from 1969. It had plain old duct tape.
Still working great after about 50yrs on the connections. It did what it needed to do and outlasted the life of the fan. It was still sticky and I think it would last another 50yrs if only the fan would only last as long as the duct tape lol!
Wrong tape. You should always use aluminum tape for ducts, it doesn't dry up and become useless like duct tape (even "cold rated" duct).
Depends on the local codes, doesn't it ?
I strongly doubt there is a local code that would favor fabric over metal tape. The reverse is possible, but in general I think code only requires securing joints with screws, sealing them is likely above and beyond.
The bloke is a professional electrician if you read the video description so he knew what he was doing
Duct work isn't electrical work
Everyone the above comment is correct about aluminum foil tape! That is the tape you should be using with duct work. Duct tape is cloth based and it will dry rot and loose adhesion and come loose over time. I verified this with a friend who is an HVAC contractor and he said all you are suppose to use is aluminum foil tape or duct putty. I have even seen the end results of someone using duct tape to seal duct work in my own house. We purchased a house where the HVAC ducts were sealed in the above manner and most of the tape was dried out and failing. So, I had to tear all that old tape off and get a bucket of duct putty from my friend and paint the joints to seal them correctly.
He used sheetrock screws to mount the vent outside. Those screws will rust in no time. It's time people stop using sheetrock screws for everything especially outside.
Yep he probably should have used galvanized or better yet stainless steel.
It's not his house, he doesn't give a shit.
I noticed that too... so many mistakes on this video. Get it done right, TOH!
People love to do it because it's easy to use those screws for almost any application. I've seen it everywhere. Not cool.
I agree with Gary 😉
Must use insulated 4" duct to exhaust fan. Also use foil tape instead of duct tape. Duct tape is only good for kidnappings in my opinion. There will be a call-back here when the fan starts dripping condensation.
" Now we'll take this snake and run the wire down..." 1:18...
God How I WISH it Was That Easy!
I know, using a fiberglass rod is easier.
I know, what the house framing had no cross stabilizing 2×4 between the joist, what we in So. Cal. call Fire breaks...
That’s the easiest shot in the world. You don’t even need a snake. He changed the box to a 2 gang.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 screwing back together , ahhhh edit that right out.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 yeah, I was a little confused about that myself. I don't see the necessity for it, it only required a single gang opening.
In cold climates, an insulated duct should be used. As installed, moisture will condense in that duct and probably run back into the fan.
kent mccarthy The mold should absorb most of the moisture...
Maxid1
I wish This Old House took there own advice. I saw an episode a wile ago where they fixed what was thought to be a roof leak and it turned out to be condensation inside the vet hose from no insulation around it.
I remember it. Only difference could be the climate where this house is, it might not get that cold.
Maxid1 there is ice/snow on his drill at 5:18. also I can see snow on the trees. Should be cold enough to use insulated ductwork.
Chris34011
So yeah, unless she's heating the attic, not using insulated duct was a mistake.
They forgot to put on a insulation sleeve on the pipe Because warm and cold mixed means condensation
Correct.
See Tommy correctly duct a bathroom fan in this TOH vid: ruclips.net/video/PqrZWd_CQIE/видео.html
oof
True
Spencerkey22 true
Please get this man a hammer 🔨 😂 💕👍 And huh the switch is in the outside of the room, must've been how they did it in those old houses 🤔
attic insulation for the purpose of thermal protection, yes!! Can of great stuff around the seams of that fan for air sealing first! Re apply existing insulation, three and not least insulate duct work to avoid condensation coming back to fan
Most building codes forbid the use of vinyl (insulated) venting for bathroom exhaust fans.
Everyone is an expert on a how-to-do video
Those of who know, get disappointed when TOH gives bad instructions.
I thought you had to grade the pipe down so moisture does not run back in?
There were a lot of important steps you missed. For instance, check with your local municipality if you need a permit. Non-permitted work isn't covered by home owners insurance and can make renting/selling tough. 2nd, before cutting the drywall, put something on the floor to collect the dust. Third, blue duct tape instead of foil tape? Fourth, non insulated duct in an attic? Fifth, he totally skipped over the wiring of that box. He bypasses the light switch in the instruction and then shows it magically with the switch at the end, which meant he rewired it off camera... That's a really important part that can cause fires/shorts...
What about caulking the exterior vent ?
Permit? Good slave, make sure you ask the all powerful king before you upgrade your private property, now kneel and lick his boots...
When you tighten the Romex connector down on the Romex... Make sure not to tighten it too hard and pinch the wires enough to make a direct short. Tighten just enough to hold the wires firmly in place. If you tighten them too hard it will pinch through the insulation.... Ask me how I know. Hahaha
To connect two gang boxes together it must be screwed from the outside of the boxes. How did he connect the new and the old gang boxes without taking the old one out of the wall?
I love coming to the comments to see what the REAL experts say was wrong with the video
Matt Hannel that's why I come here.lol everybody is an expert and they expect you to use top quality material for cheap.
Really foil tape is almost the same price as duct tape..... you never use duct tape on ducts. And yes, you should look at all the people who actually do this for a living. Not an electrician. You don’t go to the dentist to get your eyes checked....
Lmao, the exact thing I said, "Let's see what the experts got to say "
@@danielsilvax17 For me I say "let's see what the Europeans are saying"
@@jessiejones1460 not to mention, that duct should be insulated.
You should have at least 2 to 3 feet of straight run before any elbows...
Most fan manufactures specify this in the installation instructions..
Insulate the duct. Use exterior rated screws. Foil tape for the duct. Silicone will have trouble curing correctly in weather that cold.
He should have insulated that flex duct that he ran from the fan to the side wall of the attic. Rookie mistake.
I can install that in 5:49
I'm wondering how did you tied the screws from the old switch box to the new one
He probably just used a compression fit and didn't actually screw them together
If only it was always this easy.
Nice 👍
Why was the exhaust venting not insulated?
probably because it's laying flat in the attic and since it's flex duct, if condensation is a problem (which it probably will be) he can just create a slope in the run of the duct out to the exterior
Used a dryer duct? Suppose to be insulated flex duct thru a attic. Hot warm humid air will be going thru the duct in a non conditioned attic. Pipe will be sweating, causing condensation, water dripping.
Not nearly enough attic insulation, exhaust hose is laid out horizontal which will create tons of condensation
Right on. Should have put it through the roof and put an insulation jacket around the duct.
Again. If you run bathroom exhaust ducts vertical moisture and condensation will run straight back down dripping right back into the bathroom. Horizontal ducting is SOP for this set up in cold climate. The minor condensation that builds up in the pipe will evaporate.
To go thru roof is way more trouble than a side wall vent. Plus increased chance of a leak. Ideally if you have a ( Y ) duct split. In. The exhaust vent line somewhere about midway of the entire run you would have an excellent exhausting system. But who wants to cut a hole in the roof and in the side wall to vent air from the washroom. I seldom see contractors do things exactly the same way. There's always thing's done a bit differently between contractors. It's just that each person thinks that their way is better.
Thanks for sharing!
There's a template that comes with this Panasonic bathroom exhaust fan but the installer here didn't use it. Also, the vent immediately takes a 90º turn outside the fan. This is a mistake because it makes the air that much more difficult to make its way outside.
electricalron exactly, 45° are fine 90° only if clearances dictate
@electicIron Okay... So if I am going to exhaust the duct towards my wall, and not my roof, and the exhaust opening in the fan opens towards my wall... theoretically, I could just run the insulated duct straight with the joist to the vent in the wall... Correct? (If this doesn't help, I could try again)
@@jordynrandall1838 Yes, sorry I did not get an alert tony original post. How did the project turn out?
I hope those were stainless black screws he used to secure the outside fitting!
how did you screw the boxes together ??
datguy807 serously haha I never seen a junction box like that
The box actually clips in together . It is designed for those purposes
He didn’t. Lol
If you look carefully you'll see a screw inside in the bottom. Instead of going from the outside in (through the hole then threaded hole) he screwed from the inside out (through threaded hole then the regular hole). Best it'll do is hold it where it needs to be but it will be floppy.
datguy807, I had the same question. I use these boxes all the time in commercial buildings. You can’t gang them together properly without screwing them together from the bottom...which he doesn’t have access to. This video is garbage
I need to do this, thanks for the video!!!
Read some of the comments if you want to do it right.
I thought you keep the insulation off of the fan with some clearance as stated by the NEC?
That 90 coming out of the fan is a no-no per manufacture’s instructions.
For any DIYers watching, DONT use duct tape like this guy. That is not made for ducting- it will fall off months from now and not air seal your joints. Use foil tape.
Very outdated.
The duct tape will dry out and fall off.
The lack of insulation on the hose will cause moisture to condense and drip back down the fan...
Its not duct tape. Its electric tape
Solid review. Your completely right.
Don't forget the fact that he said "don't put above the shower" because existing the moisture directly would be to logical.
@@Usonian7 Are you sure that is not because you don't want that much moisture soaking the fan? I have seen bathroom fan instructions that say don't place fixture directly above shower.
@@Usonian7 I think they were worried about getting water from the shower into the fan. If it is on the outside of the shower area it would only get condensation.
Whoa. 30 year builder here and a building inspector. As stated below in the comments that exposed flex pipe is going to condensate like crazy and drip down onto your insulation and ceiling sheetrock/plaster. MAKE SURE you purchase the insulated ventilation pipe for bathroom ventilation passing through a space that is not climate controlled. Condensation can cause extensive water damage. Good day friends!!
You can just wrapped the pipe in HVAC insulation to control condensation..
It depends. In a hot climate like Sacramento, with a ridge vent and soffet vents, it almost never is a problem with condensation.
I've seen exhaust fans that just dump air into the attic, and no problems whatsoever.
Great vid, thanks!
Foil tape, not blue duct tape (rated for cold my ass).
Duct should go straight up through the roof if possible. As few bends as possible. Certainly shouldn't be venting horizontal to the intake.
Ducting also needs to be wrapped in insulation to prevent condensation which will lead to mold and/or water damage.
This should be the top comment, exactly right. Always better to vent through the roof when possible, always use an insulated pipe in non-conditioned space, and always use foil tape for ventilation connections.
It is never better to vent straight up. Where the hell did you two idiots go to school? You always vent horizontal if possible. Always.
In cold weather applications moisture condenses and guess what happens when you have vertical exhaust ducts? That condensation runs back down when the fan is not operating. This isnt rocket science gents.
Your recommendations go against most fan manufacturers instructions. Every fan I've installed in the past 10 years has a horizontal, slightly downward angled initial run so that there's a drip loop by default. This eliminates any possibilities of water re-entering the living space. Not that there should be any condensation left in the ducting if the fan is being used properly with a timer.
The best possible place to vent is always the shortest possible run to the outside, considering where the warm moist air will end up as it rises. In this case, the roof is the obvious best choice, as running the additional 10-15 feet of duct as seen in this video significantly increases drag, making the fan less efficient. Using a short run directly out the roof decreases the surface area that the moist air will come in contact with, which of course reduces drag and the amount of condensation that can build up in the first place.
Also, thanks for the childish name-calling. You seem like an extremely professional individual.
Sam Morgan in Canada, we have over 2feet snow on the roof in winter, I installed my bathroom fan through the gable wall, going through the roof is not recommended here.
Duck tape on the duct? Dissimilar metals at the point where the duct exits (touching cast iron gas pipe).
It's pronounced duct tape you dickhead
That's what the bloke said
Duct tape is not for Ducts.. it gets brittle and falls off code or no code. Use metal tape.
I dont know what type of duct tape you use that just "falls off" but I suggest spending more money next time.
Pros would start the hole saw on the outside, run it about 1/2 way or at least score the wood, then drill from the inside to prevent that massive chunk of wood from coming out. I'd not only be irritated if a contractor did this to my house but I'd make them fix it. I'd also never approve that tape job. Silvia and Holmes would never let this footage air unless it was a "how not to" video. Norm would most likely (and politely) stop you ahead of the mistake and you and show you the proper way. Heck, even that young man with the perma smile they had on this old house knows better. Bet he learned a lot pallin' around with Abrams, Silva and that plumber guy, Tommy?
Tom Silva actually did the same thing in a similar video. He drilled straight through the roof without drilling or scoring from the inside. He just got lucky no wood was chipped. Maybe his bit was newer and sharper.
But yes, Tommy did it better. He vented to the roof, used caulking to seal the vent outside, used insulated duct, and used metal tape.
Moisture in an attic isn't usually a priblem with a bath vent un a place such as Sacramento. When it gets 100° in the attic in Nivember, moisture just burns right off. If the attic is vented with ridge and blocking vents, there is really no problem.
Is it just the version I’m watching or does dude never show turning off the breaker to this switch? Seems like that would be important to include in an instructional video. Cuz if it ain’t in this particular video some novice is going to heaven
He turned off the breaker. He should have shown he double checks with an electrical tester. Double checking is always a good move.
"Meet the new box; It's the same as the old box."
Good job 👍 I enjoyed it 👍
1) How do you stop the dampers from clicking repeatedly during wind and 2) how do you fix a fan that is letting in a cold draft?
Get two small round magnets and put one on either side of the damper at the bottom not to prevent it from closing. This will add the small amount of weight needed on that light plastic damper to keep it from fluttering.
I love this channel :)
need insulation for the hose other wise you get drops in the winter
Should have let Tom Silva do the job. Hell he'll do it the right way.
yea He would also rewire the whole house L
The only reason I searched this up is so taco Tuesday won't end the bathroom for the night without a hazmat
Since the attic is vented through the turbines, does the bathroom vent have to be vented to the outside of the house?
I saw another video that said they used to vent it into the attic, which then would cause moisture problems, allowing mold to grow. so, yes.
She is very lucky to have a neutral wire in the switch box.
Unless the existing power feed had a ground wire, the new circuit isn't really grounded, even if it is attached to the new box.
Depends. You can ground to a box if a number of conditions are met.
@@deaconblues87 I suppose if the feed was in armored cable.
@@deaconblues87 If there was a grounding conductor provided with the feed, it would have to be connected directly with the switched wires. By code, even if it was bx or mc, neither are an accepted form of grounding, although I would have to admit that it's better than nothing.
Awesome! Simple. Thanks.
Pliers are the new hammer... screwdrivers are the new chisel
Tom Maloney a linemans plier is an electricians hammer
Pixie dust is the new cocaine
And linesman pliers are the new cable strippers.
Using the linesmans as a hammer -- that's how you know he's a true electrician
How did you fit the new fan into the ceiling with the exhaust extending out? Video jumps to you saying slide this in place but doesn't show how it was accomplished, see time 3:30 on video.
And... 6 months later you have a moldy attic! 👏🏼👍🏼🙄
any reason why it can't be attached to the gable as an exit point to avoid another hole in the house?
Great vid! Can anyone give me advice if a bathroom fan can be used as an exhaust fan in the kitchen? I live in a small studio apt, and just have a countertop and sink next to it. I have a 2 burner hot plate on the counter...but no exhaust fan. About 3 feet above the counter top is a long cabinet. I am thinking of installing an exhaust fan , and running a 8 ft duct to my window....just wondering if a small bathroom exhaust fan could be used for this?
Call an hvac contractor
What about con connecting that second light switch
What about fan placement? You have it a little forward of the John, so when you do number two you will get a good whiff of what you dealt. Over the tank will pull the air flow away from your nose. That’s how the set them up in department stores. 😝
You will realise it cannot be right above the shower area as water and electricity don't mix at all
What, are you talking about?! On the ceiling over the John, the toilet tank. 😂
@@DegenerateToo you should know if moisture gets into anything electrical it will short circuit
@@stephensnell5707 Ummm… yeah. Watch the end of the video the toilet is further than where they placed the fan, so even less moisture!
Why do you think I’m saying to mount the fan in the shower??!!! I’m not!!! But yeah the center of the bathroom is right in front of the toilet so it can draw that yummy burger you had for yesterday’s lunch, so you can enjoy it again. 😜
“Wow, so quiet” thing prolly don’t even work 😂😂😂
How do you conict thermostat red + white for a Williams wall francs
Do I need to insulate the exhaust flex like?
Should be insulated duct pipe , obviously
Can't even drill a hole in the house for the ducting properly without breaking the wood!
@@boholoki No point in needlessly destroying your home if you can help it. That guy is sloppy.
Another mistake I noted in this video!!! There were a lot of them.
@@michaelc.3812 Again STFU tool!
Should use a humidity sensor instead of a timed switch.
The switch is outside the bathroom, not really an option here.
That's a well built house.
He forgot to insulate that duct. Enjoy the condensation
Man that roof insulation is like R0.5.
Watch the Tommy Silva version to show how to vent it properly
This work is amateur all around. insulation is key. Not to mention the likely hood of asbestos in the plaster and the remnants old attic insulation under the fiberglass that is also asbestos. Have fun!
Again, the venting for bathroom fans MUST BE aluminum and not vinyl.
UCC
Statistically speaking, it's unlikely either contain asbestos.
Adam B, leave him alone! He was doing asbestos he could!! 😂
@@bigsteed007 LOL!
That woman turned into a handsome Kevin!
I prefer to use 3M metal foil tape so I can slice the living hell out of my fingers when smoothing it on the duct joint. But I enjoy pain...
Save your fingers and get a tape smoother! After using one of these on metal tape, you'll never go back! And the real bonus is that it pushes out all of the air bubbles and is a bear to peel it off.
www.bakerdist.com/avery-dennison-adsq50-tape-squeeze-scrapper-tape-smoother--3ff5809
Or use gloves.
Hello,
When we had our roof replaced a year ago, I had the roofers install goose neck roof cap vents over the bathrooms with plans to install exhaust fans. Problem is, I wasn't specific with installing the type that allows you to attached duct work to it. So it's a square whole like a standard vent to air out the attic. It would cost $800 to get both exhaust vents replaced. I've been told by several folks (even AC contractor) that this actually common and people either just shove the duct work inside the vent OR they use duct board a trunk line to seal and create something the duct work can attach to. I'd rather do it that way otherwise the roofers would have to tear out the vent they installed and install a new one and that's an additional cost. Any suggestions?
I would get the roofers to put in the vents you want. They would know best about how to seal the holes back up.
Replacing roof jacks is super easy. Or you could get an adapter.
One question, on the attic side. Do we need to seal the fan for avoiding the insulation material go back to the interior?
He needed to air seal the attic plane in the bathroom to attic after he made the hole.
When Tom was installing the duct to the roof, he insulated it. This guy didn't. Wonder what's up? Episode: ruclips.net/video/PqrZWd_CQIE/видео.html
Because he was in a brande new house and gave a crap. When everything around you is new construction, half assed projects stick out like a sore thumb
Mustve been fun screwing them back together with so little gap above at the joinnt.
where can i buy a bathroom fan timer like the one in video?
+bluekeet Home Depo and places like that.
+Paul Green +bluekeet
This show is sponsored by The Home Depot
So what happens if youre installing in a basement bathroom where you dontt have an upper floor to work with?
You run the exhaust out of the side of the rim joist just above the basement ceiling/foundation wall
I'm glad this is 9 years ago because this video is full of mistakes that even rookies can see. I hope whole installation got fixed before any major damage occurred.
I do enjoy watching This Old House, But over the years I have noticed that when they are working in the attic it is one that you can walk in. How about working in one that you have to crawl and work around all the roof rafters. This would be in an old ranch home, I do know they are just showing how things are done.
THINGS DONE WRONG IN THIS VIDEO:
1. He made the duct unnecessarily long by insisting on venting it through wall (which he never explained why) rather than the roof, and...
2. He did not insulate the duct. During cold weather, the exposed metal duct will allow water to accumulate inside the duct, pool up at the lowest points, and leak causing mold and water damage to the ceiling and drip down onto the bathroom floor from the fan.
3. He should have used FOIL tape, when securing these metal ducts together.
4. Did a crappy job with the hole saw. Splintered the wood inside. Didn't seal/insulate around the hole after the duct was installed.
He put it through the gable wall because the rule of thumb is to not put holes in the roof if it isn't necessary. Since the gable wall was just a little further than the roof, it made sense to go with the gable wall.
1. On exhaust vents that evacuate moisture you dont run the ducting vertical. Condensation and moisture buildup will run back down when the fan is not running.
2. You are correct the pipe should have been insulated.
3. Foil tape is expensive and not required for use by code. If you choose to use it, great. If not duct tape is an adequate substitute that will outlast the exhaust fan.
4. Correct.
Sir how to ventilate my washroom of sand sealing??
You didn't insulate the exhaust duct. I just had to pay $3000.00 to rid my attic of mold because that same duct wasn't insulated. Wrong Wrong. You have to use double wall pipe or insulate it. Wrong!!!
+James Weidner - Same problem here, exhaust pipe travels 6' straight up from ceiling uninsulated in a cold attic (Canada). Moisture condenses on the cold pipe and drips down to the fan (huge electrical fire risk, I have repaired fire-damaged homes with the exact same problem). Save yourself the heartache and get a device purpose built for the problem, purchase a dehumidifier with a timer.
+James Weidner Thanks for the tip!
Mike Canmore and
Every single thing he did was wrong
Yeah that exhaust duct work should have been insulated. The warm exhausted air can cause condensation inside the attic space during the winter months. This can create a mold situation or at worst create an ice dam. Both bad situations...
Lol see how quick get handed her the bill st the end 😂
Do you need to airseal around the housing on the attic side? Or even the housing itself if it has small holes (and they usually do)?