Thank you for posting this comparison; it was very interesting to watch and listen to your reasoning! 😍 I want to share a few insights from me that might be interesting to you and your viewers. You got that right, for a while, I was doing blowing techniques with paint+water only. And while I loved the flow and natural cell reactions, I've encountered two main issues: 1. I was regularly getting A LOT of crazing because large quantities of water do break the binders in acrylic paint. Some paint brands did just fine with water only, but most of them didn't. So I felt like I was super limited with paint brands that I can actually work with. 😔 Plus, every time it would be like a gamble - crazing or no crazing, make your bets! I hated the waste and disappointment when beautiful painting would dry with problems. 2. Every time I would want to step away from my blowing techniques and do another technique like open cup, chain pull, or mix to a thicker consistency, or do pretty much anything else, the water mixture would fail me. I get crazing, cracking, paint separation, poor flow, etc. 💔 I felt super limited, and that all those issues were stopping me from creating what I actually envisioned. And I can tell you that I don't love any limitations when it comes to my art😂 So I went on a mission to create a recipe for myself that would be SIMPLE, affordable, and mostly consist of WATER (because I liked the flow and natural cell reaction). But at the same time, it would be archival, target my crazing issue, expand the list of brands I can work with, and allow me to do other techniques or a combination of techniques in my art. Plus I wanted to have more control over cells reaction, flow, and composition. And, oh boy, did it take me a while! But after years of tests (with pretty much every combination of ingredients out there😂), I finally made something that made me super happy and allowed me to take the NEXT Step in my artistic growth.💡 As you know, my recipe is mostly water (70-80%). But the remaining 20-30% of other ingredients make A HUGE difference in the performance of the paint. And I'm happy that my recipe helped those who experienced the same problems as I did. But I think that the most important thing is my Two-Group Layering method, and I must say you use it masterfully! Again, thank you for taking the course and sharing your experience with your wonderful art community! ❤
I have yet to have one of the paintings made with your recipe craze or crack. Thanks Olga for the great explanation and also for the wonderful course you put out.
Thanks for another great vid, David! I think one of the important things to say about paintings with Floetrol is that while you can create beautiful pieces of art with lots of cells and lacing, it's important to note that Floetrol isn't archival. So who knows what will happen to those paintings ten, twenty or more years down the line. Maybe it will yellow with age, or maybe nothing will happen, but we don't have enough data to know right now. One good thing with Floetrol paintings, once you varnish or add a resin topcoat, the colors of your paints will brighten back up again. Molly uses 70% Floetrol and 30% gloss varnish/medium as her pouring medium (in a 3:1 ratio of PM:paint then thinned to the desired consistency with water), so her Floetrol mixes are still very vibrant compared to when Floetrol is used with water alone. I took Olga's class as well, and do love how her PM and paint mixtures work. I still do fluid art pours with paint and water only (I need to use up all my paint and water mixtures), but ultimately, it's more expensive to only use water as a PM, and because of the high amounts of water in the mixtures, there is the possibility of weakening the paint binders.
While all three are beautiful, I prefer the “water only” final result. Very helpful video as always David 👍 I do appreciate all the time and effort you put into your videos Thank you😊
@@LeftBrainedArtist I bet there's an app or website for that! Or maybe ask us for our fav color combos? One of my faves is pale or light blue, turquoise (blue or green), white, green and copper. When I get stumped I look at nature or artist YT vids and take notes. I don't know if this helps or not, it's one thing I can definitely get into analysis paralysis and then I don't get any painting done at all.
It is different for every paint and for each mixture so I can't say exaclty. Probably half a part for Floetrol and more like a full part for Soby and water.
What i want to know is what pouring mediums would be least expensive if don't want cells but am just starting with acrylic and dutch pours? Thanks for video it helped.
Glue All and keep it slightly thicker than I have here. More small mound and disappear. Craftsmat glue and school glue will give you lots cells but Glue All seems to keep them to a minimum.
I've used Elmer's Glue, Flotrol (UK) and Rosa. I'm sticking to Rosa atm, as it's a bit cheaper than Flotrol and produces really smooth results with good colours (Arteza and Amsterdam paints).
I love the comparison with the commentary on why things happened and what would happen with a slight variation! This was helpful, and I really like the ring pour with the excess paint! Was that also a mix of the different mediums?
Hello David, I have been watching your videos and am hooked on acrylic pouring, thanks to you. Originally from Glasgow, Scotland, now living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and have always been involved in crafts, ceramics, mosaics etc. So, my big question is, I have a lot of Acrylic Paints in the 2oz. bottles. To get the hang of things, can I use these, following your video on mixing the Elmer's Glue-All with a little water - can this then be used in a straight or dirty pour? Looking forward to hearing from you, and getting started. Cheerio the nooo,
Hi David! Appreciate how you take the time to answer us newbies with our questions, that being said I have one for you. I did a Dutch pour my base was artist loft titanium white with floetrol and water to thin to a 0 trace. My paints were the same medium to a trace of 1 Two opaque and 2 semi transparent and one transparent. The design was beautiful when I finished but it had Sooooo! Much lacing that it took away from the design! I used Arteza and Amsterdam and one was a metallic. Do you have any recommendations?
Without seeing I am only guessing here but normally I would say make them both slightly thicker. Did the white take over from the base or only the swipe/blown colors create all the lacing?
Thanks, Dave. I'm hoping to take Olga's class at the end of the month. My biggest issue is knowing how much paint to lay down on Dutch Pours. I've either got too much, or not enough. 😮
Once you have a base you really only need enough to push the paint around. Ultimately I usee about 60% of the paint I normally would with a Dutch Pour (give or take).
Depends on the paint. You add water till you get the right consistency. Between 40 and 60%. Don't use this with craft paints, they don't have enough binder in them and will crack.
Interested in taking her course just for the recipe BUT my question is are the materials for her pouring medium available all over the world not just Canada , USA Europe. I live in the middle east and I cannot get a lot of mediums that are used. So if I get her course but cannot resource the materials I waste 179 $ which is a fortune in my country.
There's no point taking courses for me because I don't live in America so I will have trouble in get the same components or need ro pay even more for shipping
I lobe the comparisons, I took Olgas class, and I loved it. I highly recommend it to anyone.
I know right? so much good info and guidance.
Thank you for posting this comparison; it was very interesting to watch and listen to your reasoning! 😍
I want to share a few insights from me that might be interesting to you and your viewers.
You got that right, for a while, I was doing blowing techniques with paint+water only. And while I loved the flow and natural cell reactions, I've encountered two main issues:
1. I was regularly getting A LOT of crazing because large quantities of water do break the binders in acrylic paint. Some paint brands did just fine with water only, but most of them didn't. So I felt like I was super limited with paint brands that I can actually work with. 😔
Plus, every time it would be like a gamble - crazing or no crazing, make your bets! I hated the waste and disappointment when beautiful painting would dry with problems.
2. Every time I would want to step away from my blowing techniques and do another technique like open cup, chain pull, or mix to a thicker consistency, or do pretty much anything else, the water mixture would fail me. I get crazing, cracking, paint separation, poor flow, etc. 💔
I felt super limited, and that all those issues were stopping me from creating what I actually envisioned. And I can tell you that I don't love any limitations when it comes to my art😂
So I went on a mission to create a recipe for myself that would be SIMPLE, affordable, and mostly consist of WATER (because I liked the flow and natural cell reaction). But at the same time, it would be archival, target my crazing issue, expand the list of brands I can work with, and allow me to do other techniques or a combination of techniques in my art. Plus I wanted to have more control over cells reaction, flow, and composition.
And, oh boy, did it take me a while!
But after years of tests (with pretty much every combination of ingredients out there😂), I finally made something that made me super happy and allowed me to take the NEXT Step in my artistic growth.💡
As you know, my recipe is mostly water (70-80%). But the remaining 20-30% of other ingredients make A HUGE difference in the performance of the paint.
And I'm happy that my recipe helped those who experienced the same problems as I did.
But I think that the most important thing is my Two-Group Layering method, and I must say you use it masterfully!
Again, thank you for taking the course and sharing your experience with your wonderful art community! ❤
I have yet to have one of the paintings made with your recipe craze or crack. Thanks Olga for the great explanation and also for the wonderful course you put out.
Thanks for another great vid, David! I think one of the important things to say about paintings with Floetrol is that while you can create beautiful pieces of art with lots of cells and lacing, it's important to note that Floetrol isn't archival. So who knows what will happen to those paintings ten, twenty or more years down the line. Maybe it will yellow with age, or maybe nothing will happen, but we don't have enough data to know right now. One good thing with Floetrol paintings, once you varnish or add a resin topcoat, the colors of your paints will brighten back up again. Molly uses 70% Floetrol and 30% gloss varnish/medium as her pouring medium (in a 3:1 ratio of PM:paint then thinned to the desired consistency with water), so her Floetrol mixes are still very vibrant compared to when Floetrol is used with water alone. I took Olga's class as well, and do love how her PM and paint mixtures work. I still do fluid art pours with paint and water only (I need to use up all my paint and water mixtures), but ultimately, it's more expensive to only use water as a PM, and because of the high amounts of water in the mixtures, there is the possibility of weakening the paint binders.
All great points. I do know of a few studies by paint companies and Flood themselves that Floetrol won't yellow.
I really love the Dutch Pour which is something to look forward to and try. You are a great teacher and i enjoy your tutorials.
You can do it!
Another very helpful video. Out of the three I like the water only the best. I love that green. I'll have to get some of that. Thanks David.
Thanks my friend. it is a pretty green for sure.
Thanks for this comparison. Think I'll try just water soon.
Totally. Just make sure you use better quality paints.
They look great. The color is best with the water.
That's why I love doing these experiments.
I learn so much from you, thank you! I love the water-only one as well :)
You are so welcome! It nice to see them side by side for once.
They were all stunning. I preferred the water. Thank you for the inspiration!
Thanks so much 😊
I actually like the water mix best! 💜
They are both pretty for sure.
All of them look good.. Thanks for doing them side by side so we can see and appreciate the differences.
You are so welcome Patricia.
I really appreciate all the effort you put into your videos. Educational, short, sweet and to the point. Thank you!
Glad you like them!
Really loved this! Thank you 😁
They were all lovely, the water one 👍👍👍
Thank you! 😃
Your videos have been the best guidance so far...thank you so much. Just beautiful and a more simply explained flower.
My pleasure Lisa.
Thank you, David. I truly appreciate your analytical thinking and experimental presentations.
My pleasure Cindy. Glad to help my friends.
While all three are beautiful, I prefer the “water only” final result. Very helpful video as always David 👍 I do appreciate all the time and effort you put into your videos Thank you😊
Thanks Randi.
They all look good, but I think I like the one with the water the best
That seems to be the consensus.
These are beautiful! Really, really beautiful.
Thank you so much Susanne.
Always enjoy your experiments David.
Thanks so much!
Nicely done, always appreciate your thorough research and testing. Gorgeous color combo! 😍
Thank you Debbie. That is actually one place where I have serious trouble being a left brained guy.
@@LeftBrainedArtist too much research and testing or difficulty coming up with color combos?
@@debbiem.3128 Difficulty coming up with combos. It's my achilles heel
@@LeftBrainedArtist I bet there's an app or website for that! Or maybe ask us for our fav color combos?
One of my faves is pale or light blue, turquoise (blue or green), white, green and copper. When I get stumped I look at nature or artist YT vids and take notes.
I don't know if this helps or not, it's one thing I can definitely get into analysis paralysis and then I don't get any painting done at all.
@@debbiem.3128 Lots of websites for it. I used Coolors.co
Thank you for always enlightening us. What is the proportion of the water you put in the paint thank you
It is different for every paint and for each mixture so I can't say exaclty. Probably half a part for Floetrol and more like a full part for Soby and water.
I liked the water the most. Cells & lacing is much better than the others.
The color was different for sure.
Thank you so much for the video.. it's very much useful..can you please say about the black base paint.
What about the black base paint?
Is it floetrol mixed with black acrylic paint or is it a black House paint that is used?
Floetrol. I only use house paint for the Sheleeart blooms and as an ingredient in pours like Sarah Taylor does.@@anz5459
Colors are beautiful...is there something IN white color base? I am bigginer😊
Nothing special in the white base. Same paint mixtures as the other colors.
Thank you🙏🙏🙏I ll try...
I like the water best
Thanks Sandra.
Thank you David I always find your video’s informative ❤️❤️
Glad you like them Jeanette
It’s always good to see you, David. Great information. 🎶💞🎶
Thank you kindly Jan.
🎉 excellent information. Thanks, David
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you, lots of good information 👍
My pleasure Sandra.
What i want to know is what pouring mediums would be least expensive if don't want cells but am just starting with acrylic and dutch pours? Thanks for video it helped.
Glue All and keep it slightly thicker than I have here. More small mound and disappear. Craftsmat glue and school glue will give you lots cells but Glue All seems to keep them to a minimum.
I've used Elmer's Glue, Flotrol (UK) and Rosa. I'm sticking to Rosa atm, as it's a bit cheaper than Flotrol and produces really smooth results with good colours (Arteza and Amsterdam paints).
I don't know what Rosa is. Guess I need to look it up.
I love the comparison with the commentary on why things happened and what would happen with a slight variation! This was helpful, and I really like the ring pour with the excess paint! Was that also a mix of the different mediums?
That was the leftovers from those three painting. Straight in the cup.
@@LeftBrainedArtist the lines are cool! Thanks for posting this video!
David, I don't have a blow torch, can I use my heat gun instead. Thanks Elizabeth
Absolutely you can.
Hello David, I have been watching your videos and am hooked on acrylic pouring, thanks to you. Originally from Glasgow, Scotland, now living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and have always been involved in crafts, ceramics, mosaics etc. So, my big question is, I have a lot of Acrylic Paints in the 2oz. bottles. To get the hang of things, can I use these, following your video on mixing the Elmer's Glue-All with a little water - can this then be used in a straight or dirty pour? Looking forward to hearing from you, and getting started. Cheerio the nooo,
You can actually use that paint in any type of pour. Really just depends of the consistency.
I'll have a loot through your videos, I just want to practice plain pouring, nothing fancy, yet@@LeftBrainedArtist
Thx great info, thanks for sharing ❤❤
Any time! Thanks for watching.
Hi David! Appreciate how you take the time to answer us newbies with our questions, that being said I have one for you. I did a Dutch pour my base was artist loft titanium white with floetrol and water to thin to a 0 trace. My paints were the same medium to a trace of 1 Two opaque and 2 semi transparent and one transparent. The design was beautiful when I finished but it had Sooooo! Much lacing that it took away from the design! I used Arteza and Amsterdam and one was a metallic. Do you have any recommendations?
Without seeing I am only guessing here but normally I would say make them both slightly thicker. Did the white take over from the base or only the swipe/blown colors create all the lacing?
The white base worked well, it was the strip of colors that laced like crazy. So do you think thickening the colors and not the base would do it?
Thankyou in advance for your suggestion, you should start your own class! Appreciate you!
@@beverlyannelanoue5788 I would thicken both. If you leave the base thin you may get it turning in to pearl cells everywhere.
How much water to how much paint ratio? Thank you for helping us all out.
There isn't a ratio as it is different for every tube of paint. Ultimately it turned outo to be something around 40% water.
Thank you for sharing 🎨
My pleasure 😊
Thank you for the info!
Any time Jane.
Added tip.. Spray paint And a Solo cup Or whatever you using And do it that way , Because I done it! Without gloves. I have purple hand .😊
🤔
Thanks, Dave. I'm hoping to take Olga's class at the end of the month. My biggest issue is knowing how much paint to lay down on Dutch Pours. I've either got too much, or not enough. 😮
Once you have a base you really only need enough to push the paint around. Ultimately I usee about 60% of the paint I normally would with a Dutch Pour (give or take).
I like the water pour the best
Seems to be that is the one people love.
Great video, thanks
My pleasure Christine. Thanks for watching.
Great and so helpful . Love ur videos - i like the water one only - -can i ask , did you put some silicone in the paint as well or just water only?
No silicone at all.
@@LeftBrainedArtist wow that’s amazing . Thanks
Great stuff as usual David. I probably missed it but is your base paint mixed with the same recipe as your colors?
Yes, it is!
What's the ratio for the paint and water?
Depends on the paint. You add water till you get the right consistency. Between 40 and 60%. Don't use this with craft paints, they don't have enough binder in them and will crack.
@@LeftBrainedArtist greatly appreciated!
Interested in taking her course just for the recipe BUT my question is are the materials for her pouring medium available all over the world not just Canada , USA Europe. I live in the middle east and I cannot get a lot of mediums that are used. So if I get her course but cannot resource the materials I waste 179 $ which is a fortune in my country.
She provides alternatives is most major markets yes.
Rinske Douna always used water. She Olga and Molly teach classes together now
Yup, the problem with water has always been that sometimes it cracks. A small dab of a professional pour medium helps that.
There's no point taking courses for me because I don't live in America so I will have trouble in get the same components or need ro pay even more for shipping
There are alternatives she provides but most are main stream paint brands (Liquitex, Golden, etc.)
You are into Olga huh
Lately I am for sure Jill.
You are holding your dryer wrong I watched Molly teach Olga how to do it…….look for the video with them together!
I prefer my way. Not wrong, just different.