Sub 17g 65mm 1S Tiny Whoop | 65mm 1S vs 80mm 2S | Chasing other Whoops

Hello my Whoop Friends. Some DVR from my last whoop flying day with friends. My new 65mm Whoop was pretty fast with those 702 28000kV Motors. But for me more kv would be great. Something like 32000kv, 35000kv or 40000kV? (with throttle mid set to 0 and throttle expo to 0.6 or more of course) In any case, the maximum kv that is possible without burning the 5A ESC. I hope high kV 702 motors will come onto the market soon. But 28000kv is better than nothing.. It was still fun :-) More of this 65mm Whoop when I`m completely happy with it.
Happy Whoopin my friends! Whoop whoop! :-)
0:00 65mm 1S vs 80mm 2S
1:11 80mm 2S vs 65mm 1S
2:13 65mm 1S alone
3:06 65mm 1S (with Tiny Whoop Pinch Cam) vs 75mm 1S
3:55 Chasing other Whoops
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[@BlaqkstarFPV]

Absolute legend

[@butterflyfpv]

Thank you my whoop friend! I hope I can enrich the whoop community a bit with my videos and experiments. Whoop whoop!🥳

[@BobBobsta]

Ok du bist Deutsch das ist geil erstmal Abo da gelassen ich hab das shutterbug 75mm build und dadurch whoops lieben gelernt ich will jetzt den ultimativen 65mm bauen welche parts würdest du jetzt empfehlen habe letztens gesehen gibt 30k kv von beta flight die sind aber klein wenig schwerer als die 27k. Meinst du die neue can die du gepostet wäre sinnvoller als die gute alte runcam Nano?

[@butterflyfpv]

Hey willkommen mein whoop freund!🤜🤛 Nice! Genau bei den betafpv motörchen kannst du beide nehmen. Ich persönlich mag gern lieber mehr kv. oder lieber zu viel als zu wenig. Die neue Cam wäre auf jeden fall gut wenn du sehr schnell fliegst. Aber ehrlich gesagt kannst du auch mit den nanos schnell fliegen. Das wichtigste ist dass viele flugtraining. Und dass du nicht ständig zwischen kameras wechselt. Mal auf eine setzen und dann goooo🤙 üben üben üben.. 100h, 1000h, usw. 🙂 Und für deinen ultimativen whoop ist es einfach wichtig dass du unter 18g trocken kommst (besser 17-17.5g). Sprich betafpv air frame, ein leichtes canopy, 702 motoren mit 27k oder mehr, Motorschrauben M1,6 x 3 aus reny oder titan, die neusten gemfan 3-Blatt oder HQ 3-Blatt props in den light versionen, ein leichter Flightcontroller (zb betafpv f4) und direkt angelötete motoren ohne plugs sowie A30/BT2.0 Hauptstecker, 300mah Tattu oder dogcom z-fold lipos. Das ist eigentlich schon alles.. Und wenn du viel mit anderen fliegen möchstest dann ein guter vtx wie tbs nano 32 oder happymodel OVX300.

[@BobBobsta]

@@butterflyfpv ja ich hatte überlegt ob ich das Diamond Aio nehmen soll dann spare ich mir das Gewicht vom VTX.
Oder sagst du ich bin mit den betafpv und nem tbs nano mehr zufrieden 😁

[@BobBobsta]

@@butterflyfpv hast du irgendein anderes Social Media wo man dir noch folgen kann ?

[@butterflyfpv]

@@BobBobsta Nein nur youtube.. ich bin noch von der alten schule 🙂

[@butterflyfpv]

@@BobBobsta Diamond ist ok, aber wenn du viel mit anderen zusammen fliegst (mehr als 3 piloten gleichzeitig) dann definitiv betafpv und tbs nano oder ovx300. Ist nicht viel schwerer. Und wie gesagt viel viel besser wenn du mit anderen fliegst..

[@chrisbee5481]

Vielleicht aggresivere props statt mehr kv.
Bin mir nicht sicher ob die neunen gf 1219 oder hq 31mm ultralight mehr pitch bzw bums haben.
Ich würde einfach den neuen mobula6 2024 kaufen, statt selbst bauen. Sind auch nur 17g.

[@butterflyfpv]

Ja dass mit den props probier ich auch noch! Hab jetzt mal gf1219S montiert (aber noch nicht geflogen). Den mobula62024 hab ich bestellt😂 aber der ist gefühlt schon ewig unterwegs und kommt nicht an.. da war ich schneller mit selber bauen..🤪

[@shalotfpv]

Love the picture in picture comparison. Have you ever posted the tune for your 1102 18k 2S build? You fly it so smooth. Mine vibrates too much above half throttle.

[@butterflyfpv]

Yes the tune is in the pictures of the last video about the 80mm 1102 18k. To be honest: I don`t tune my quads to much, or sometime not at all. Because for Racing a "lose" Tune is often better, because it is more efficient. So I can`t help you too much. For me the stock betaflight 4.4 Tune is good enough for all my high kv high power builds. And especially with preheated Lipos. But yeah the tune and esc settings are at the end of the last video..

[@nikotttin]

How do you like that pinch? Not sure it's worth the weight penalty vs. a nano3?
I've build a 17.5g 1s and am sill not happy with the canopy... and my batteries are trash. These tiny motors are trashing lipos!!!
I have a fractal 75 frame for you to play with. I can give I to Kevin... 😉

[@butterflyfpv]

@@nikotttin Let me put it this way: I was a little disappointed when I flew the Pinch for the first time. But the contrast is very good. I would say the pinch is not a must. But in some situations a slight advantage. However, I still hope that an even better analog cam will come onto the market at some point. Before HDZero finally takes over at some point...
Do you also have this canopy (betafpv air canopy)? It's holding up well for me. I bent it with a little heat from the hot air dryer. My lipos are Tattu 1S 300mah 75C. They last a very long time, you just can't fly them below 3V otherwise they will be puffed up very quickly. Haha you know the legendary kevin :-D Ok, yes you can give it to him if you don't need it at the moment. Thank you! You should also come fly with Kevin and me! 😀

[@nikotttin]

@@butterflyfpv managing kids and work is at times tough, but I’d love too. Your tracks are legend :)

[@butterflyfpv]

@@nikotttin Fair! 😀 Maybe someday..😃 would be nice!🤜🤛

[@CriticoolHit]

What battery are you using and what's your pre-heat cycle look like? IE: What are your storage temps, what are you bringing the cell up to as a final temp? And over how long a heating cycle? Are you heating it at storage charge then charging to max?
Sorry for all the questions. I have only just gotten into pre-heating and am curious what others are doing.

[@butterflyfpv]

Hey my whoop friend, no problem. I`m here for questions. On the 65mm Whoop? Tattu 1S 300mah BT2.0 (foldet cells, the black ones). Storage Temp = room temp 20 degrees celcius. Final Temp. 38-40 degrees celcius (max.). Preheating Takes about 10 minutes+. My preheater is not fully developed yet. I`m working on something better... type in lipo preheater or something like that for the videos of my lipo preheater.. Does that answer your questions?

[@CriticoolHit]

@@butterflyfpv All but the charge question. Are you going to full charge then heating or heating and then going to full charge? (thank you in advance for answering!)

[@butterflyfpv]

@@CriticoolHit Yes full charge with 2C to 4,35V and then preheating in my Lipo Preheater Box. Preheating while charging should be possible in the future, but also quite dangerous in a case of a malfunction of the lipo preheater.. There would then have to be several security functions. With redundant sensors and stuff...

[@CriticoolHit]

@@butterflyfpv Right now I am charging WHILE preheating. I cut a hole in a metal toolbox and siliconed my ViFly woopstore to the bottom so only the batteries are in the box and the woopstore can breath fresh air. (i set the tool box on some stands as I am basically expecting to catch fire at any moment). I put in a small 20w DC heater and attached it to one of those cheap ebay PIDs. I have only been going to 32-35C out of fear but I may start pushing it to 40. I am only getting about 30-45 seconds of extra full-power before the sag starts.

[@butterflyfpv]

@@CriticoolHit Ok thats interessting! 32 degrees is not enough! You can feel the effect between 35 and 40 degrees. 38 degrees celcius is a good safe point to start in my opinion. Cool that you're experimenting too! I'm also working on a similar solution in the future. What you really have to pay attention to is that the surface temperature of the lipos never exceeds 42 degrees Celsius. In other words, you can't warm it up too quickly. It needs time. And if you have your temperature, a good fast PID loop with a temperature sensor directly on the lipo (one sensor on every lipo would be perfect) is important. Kind of like that. Simply that the temperature never exceeds 42 degrees Celsius on the surface of the lipos, neither when warming up nor when keeping warm. My problem at the moment is that the lipos get too warm when kept warm (around 45 degrees Celsius +) because the pid loop of my heating system is bad and reheats with too much power. I still have to optimize that too. In any case: If your lipos never exceed 42 or let's say 40 degrees Celsius, neither when preheating nor when reheating and keeping warm, then it's a relatively safe thing. Because someone who lives somewhere in America on the edge of the desert and flies FPV has no problem too, even if it's 36, 38 or 40 degrees Celsius outside. Regarding the duration of the extra power: I know what you mean. It's like this: The Lipo has to be operated at its limit in order to feel the full effect for the entire flight. So that the lipo keeps himself warm throughout the entire flight. In my racing this is the case where I completely empty a 380mah Lipo in under 2:00min and a 450mah in under 2:30min. If you are not yet flying on this level, the lipo will cool down during the flight. There would then be the option of choosing a lipo with a slightly lower C-rate so that you have the effect of preheating at the beginning and the lipo preheats itself for the rest of the flight due to its higher internal resistance due to the lower C-rate. As you can see, it's a tightrope walk. And preheating Lipo isn't worth it for everyone. And not for every flying style either. I see lipo preheating (to increase performance) especially in racing. (especially whoop racing with high kv motors)
And something else regarding preheating while charging: Unfortunately, we don't know what the internal temperature is when charging a lipo. That's why I would recommend that you preheat lipo carefully when charging. It could be that the surface temperature of the lipo is 40 degrees Celsius, but that it gets warmer inside for a short time due to charging. So please be careful and only do it near a window where you can throw everything out if necessary. Be aware that it can happen so quickly that you don't have time to react. Added to this are the very toxic fumes. I think it's super cool that you're experimenting too, but please stay very very careful!