Thank you for your work. according to the instructions from this video, I installed a direct drive on my Aquila printer. installed the firmware from your site. printed the softest tpu plastic from the first time without any problems.
Excellent!!! Glad this worked out for you! I have two Sprites installed so far and both have been performing great! Thanks for watching and letting me know this all helped !
Quick september 2023 update. Just bought a Sprite Pro kit from Creality. Got home in two days (Canada hey!). Extruder design has slightly changed since there is no more screw holding the hotend thermistor. It seems to be glued in place. Not sure if it's an upgrade since I've previously replaced a few in the past. It may not be as easy anymore. And my kit came with the CR Touch cable 👌. I've installed the kit on my old old plane jane Ender 3 which was already direct drive modified with the stock motor and a cheap Amazon dual gear aluminium extruder . The Sprite pro kit weight 240 gr less than my former configuration. Stock motor weight is considerable. Thanks for that great video once again. Now let's update firmware and Marlin on this old workhorse...
Sound great! I've noticed a lot more of these kits are coming equipped with that cr touch cable. I have a feeling they saw an issue with that screw holding in the thermistor, and decided to remove it. I've had mine held in place just like that, sans screw, for some time now. Great to hear you got this hooked up and running!
@@PrintsLeo3D hey I'm new to printing and I'm having an issue after installing this equipment. When I go to auto level the machine keeps going down after touching the print bed. Luckily nothing has broken but I don't know how to fix this. Any ideas?
Wow! Once again, another very well thought out n thorough vid! Being new to 3d printing, i didn't even know about any of these options. And i just spent a day finding, modifying n making filament guides like a sucker for the stock setup! 🤣
Yea there is a TON that you can customize, change, or modify in some way. You don't need to do it all, and certainly not all at once, so that's why I do it in my videos. Gives you an idea whats on the horizon and some tips to help if you decide to try go there! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment !
Thanks so much for the video Leo, this was incredibly helpful! I do have a couple questions though. After setting all of this up and installing the new firmware I decided to buy a BL Touch (the one you provided in the link). First question is I don't know where the black and white wire connector for the BL Touch is supposed to plug in. Second, as I've seen in another comment, I don't seem to have the recommended clearance between the BL Touch and the nozzle as recommended in your other video where you're setting up the BL Touch on the Aquila; the issue with this is that I don't have the ability to raise the BL Touch any higher due to the mount on the Sprite Pro. Do you have any recommendations on how I might increase the clearance distance to the recommended 2.3-4.3mm? Thanks again for all your help!
Hey Quantum, thanks for watching and giving me an opportunity to help out ! For the white and black wires, you should double check the wiring specs that came with the touch but it's likely, those two are the remaining ground and output wires. Some of the bl touches (especially from Creality) color the wires differently, which is why I said to double check, but if those end up being ground (black) and output (white) then can be plugged in accordingly at the end of the 5 pin bl touch port. As for mounting the bl touch I have had some success and some difficulty. One of my Sprites I was able to mount up the touch and all was good, but I know a lot of people have not been so lucky. You also have the clearance issue as well, and this next suggestion should take care of both issues. Here are two mounts that are able to hold a bl touch and also giving you the ability to adjust clearance. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5555432 www.thingiverse.com/thing:5411490 The first puts the probe on the opposite side of the hot end, so if you go with that mount make sure you adjust the x and y offsets accordingly!
Thank you Leo. After one too many hot end issues, I was looking for some kind of direct drive, and this one was on the short list. I then googled “creality sprite pro voxelab aquila”, and your video popped up! That made me smile as I’ve always found your videos to be well thought out and presented. Suffice to say, I’ve now made my decision, and will be using this video during my install. Heartfelt thanks and keep doing what you do! 🙂
Oh wow thank you so much! That means a lot to me, and not only your really kind words but also the fact that my video did what it intended to do. Inform you in a concise and easy(hopefully) to understand way to help you on your 3d printing journey. I really thank you for sharing this with me, it made my night !
Wow, really!! I may take you up on that offer at some point. My knowledge of the Linux side of these setups is limited (at best), so finding resources that know more than I do (which isn't hard lol) is invaluable. Thank you!
@@PrintsLeo3D Again, you are more than welcome. You helped immensely. I’m actually fitting the sprite now, and the only problem I’ve run in to, is the sensor on the X axis. The new carriage doesn’t make contact with it, so it just crashes in to the left side. This is on a stock Aquila. Any ideas?
Hello, I just installed the Sprite Pro on my Aquila S2. When I tried to heat the nozzle, it shutdown and restarted with an M112 error. I did what you said and reversed the nozzle heating wires and it doesn't shut down now, but I still get an M112 error that won't go away. I have installed your Aquila Sprite Extruder firmware as well. Should I switch to the Alex firmware? Thanks!
Recently someone else had a similar issue and it ended up being an issue with a wire being burnt out (I think). Can you check (visually) the wiring harness where it attached to the break out board , as well as the main board itself to check for any sort of shorting out damage.
Geoff, I'm not too sure as I don't own an Aquila Pro, but I believe it will not. I think the current hot end is tied to a breakout board, which is likely tied to the firmware. Changing one or more of those will be a tough hill to climb. Again, take this with a grain of salt, I don't own one but this seems to be the case based on talking to people that do have an Aquila Pro.
Greetings! My sprite kit just arrived? Just to try to speed things up and get an experts reference point, what where your offset settings for the Cr touch and your flow adjustments?
Hey I'm sorry in advance that this answer is going to be a little wishy washy, but I'm on vacation and not at home so I don't have access to my settings. If you go to my website I have a webpage dedicated to the Sprite, and there you should be able to find the offsets and the profile I was using! (PrintsLeo3d.com) If you need some more help let me know and I'll do my best when I get back home !
Man I tell ya as someone who printed again some stuff with my voxelab Aquila last night and every time I ever have a plastic whatnot I need the last year. I haven’t had a problem yet with it it’s insane how reliable it has been since I followed your tutorial on firmware and bltouch install. I also got the magnetic gold pei or whatever bed and ive only ever used pla+ usually esun or polymaker and I’ve never had a issue printing anything I’ve tried even some really big prints. I might look into upgrading it when it stops working the dual z axis screws and direct drive would be sweet but at this point it’s hard to want to touch it mechanically while it is so plug n play literally haven’t printed anything in two months and turned it on heated it up let the bed re mesh and pushed print and walked away and boom perfect print last nite again for a couple wall hangers I needed to hand a few potted plants haha. Really the amount of things I have printed with this printer is astonishing. The first 6 months it never shut down haha . It’s been the best $200 I have every spent in everything I think the printer was like $150 bltouch was like $30 and pie bed was like $20 I guess if I wanted to print some other high heat materials I will get me a new hot end.
I'm so happy to hear that your Aquila is working out! These printers while inexpensive are really capable of amazing consistent results. The PEI sheet and the BL Touch also make printing feel like a breeze. I know the feeling of not wanting to mess with anything while the printer is doing it's job, just keep all these things on the back burner until you need another project lol Thanks for leaving the comment !
I also want to upgrade my aquila withe the sprite. I already have a cr touch, would the cable that it already has work in case my kit doesn't include one ?
Yes and no lol if you want to use the dedicated break out board that's on the back of the Sprite then your current cable will not work. The cable you have now has a JST connector on one side and a molex picoblade connector on the other (the side that plugs into the touch). The breakout board on the Sprite requires a picoblade connector on both sides of the cable. You could choose to bypass the breakout board and connect the CR touch directly to the main board, and in that case the cable you have now would work just as it is. Luckily I have found a lot of these units are now shipping with the correct cable. So I think you're going to be in luck but at least you have a back up plan just in case (bypassing the breakout board). Hope this helps and let me know if you need anything else!
I installed this back in July. I immediately noticed that the max x direction exceeded the length of X past the y axis bracket so that the lower screw in the x carriage bangs on it. I have tried adjusting the offsets to no avail. I think I need to shorten the maximum travel in the x direction and the only way to do that, as I see it, is to do it in the firmware and reassemble it. Do you have any instructions on how to do that?
Changing the max bed size for this would definitely need to be done firmware side, but the process can be a little complicated. I don't have a video myself on this process but you'd need to download seperate software to be able to edit and then compile the correct firmware (I believe it's called Platform IO which I think is a plugin for Microsoft VS code). Depending on your printer I may have some firmware that is set up similar and would work. What except printer are you using and what is the current hot end setup?
@dmatheson1 Yes, I have VS Code and PlatformIO installed. I cloned Alexqzd's Marlin branch and attempted to compile it unmodified, but it failed. It appears that PlatformIO is no longer compatible with that "old" code. It's amazing how fast this stuff gets out of date. I have the 4x4 BLTouch (1.3.5.1) firmware currently installed. That is the one I want to modify. I have an Aquila X2 with the Creality Sprite hot end installed. I have a BLTouch attached to that. I used the Creality carriage and the tab that hits the x axis home switch (I think) is just way too long, causing my issue.
What are you having trouble with regarding the fans? Are you able to trace back the original fans on the printer and tell where they are plugged in? This way we can determine which one would get plugged in which spot.
Hai , thanks for this vid, I ordered a Sprite so watching youtube vids about it > Becaus I also own a Aquila this one is perfect. But.......I saw you removing the fanconnector of the circuitboard (16:48) and a moment later you say that's the connector of the pasrts cooling fan (17:14) ??? I'm a bit confused now. I don't have the Sprite yet (on its way) and I'm sure when I get to it I'll see where it supposed to gofrom where it is now, so that leaves me time to mention it here and hope you'll see it and reply before I get my Sprite. Seeing this vid is from a while ago .Thanks for your work and keep it up.greetings from the Netherlands.
Greetings! Thanks for watching and I'm glad you decided on the Sprite, it's worked wonders for me. The fan I remove at 16:48 is the mainboard cooling fan, it's the fan that blows on the board and cools it down. It should be unplugged and plugged back in to the same connector when the install is complete. The parts cooling fan is a separate connector but it's right next to that mainboard cooling fan. Those fans are connected 'in-line' meaning they are both either powered on or powered off together. When the cooling fan is turned on the mainboard fan is also turned on. So for this mainboard those two connectors are sort of interchangeable, as they are both either on or off together. As you move through this install it will all make a lot more sense. Good luck and if you need help while you are installing please let me know.
I didn't know you had a discord channel. I might have to come by and say "hi" Thanks for another great and thorough video. This is not the same d.d. system I have but it was still helpful and gave me the basics. You're the best!
Always appreciate when you drop and comment! Yea I didn't know what Discord was but I had so many different email chains oing talking to people one of them mentioned to look into Discord and I'm glad I did. Now it's all in one place it's great! Can't wait to see you on there!
@@PrintsLeo3D can you send me an invite to your discord server, I'd love to join up but looks like I need an invite link I'm still new to discord as well. The link in your description diesnt go to your channel just to the app itself. Thanks
I can absolutely send the link ! discord.gg/YHFJEjFv I have been having so much issues with this discord link, last video had the same problem where the link would not bring people to my Discord. Thanks for letting me know, I'll see you on Discord!
Both of the build plates are textured PEI coated flex sheets. They have excellent adhesion and when you're finished printing you can remove them(they are attached via a magne) then flex the build surface and the print pops off. It's really amazing. I have a video that goes over two types ruclips.net/video/XhqA8gU7PE0/видео.html
I bought this with the cr touch I’ve been having tons of issues with it solved most of them now my main issue is with leveling i tried silicone spacers and the yellow springs tightened the bed checked the z axis if there is slack and adjusted and tightened everything still same issue with leveling any idea even changed the bed surface from glass to pei back to glass
Yea I would love to help! What exactly are the issues you're having with leveling? Is the material not sticking? Is it non printing uniform on the first layer? If you want to join my Discord we can exchange pictures and videos easily which makes diagnosing these issues easier. discord.gg/YHFJEjFv
Thanks for this video you always do a good job and easy to understand, So the simple fact is not to waste money on upgrades that take money and time and add little benefit. It's a cheap machine we should keep it that way unless we have problems with it.
I can understand your points but overall I disagree with this take. The Sprite is an expensive upgrade no doubt, it only offers, direct extrusion, a dual geared extruder, high temp printing, and is lightweight. You could add those feature for around 1/2 the cost. Would this be my first recommendation for someone looking for these upgrades? Probably not, but saying you shouldn't put money into a low cost printers seems short sighted. I'm sure a lot of people got into the hobby through these printers, and they may choose to modify them, which requires time and money. Everyone has their own situation and circumstances, and to make and to make a blanket statement like yours misses the point. Also the money spent on this upgrade isn't without return, this is a very nice product.
Yea, while I didn't have that issue, a lot of people didm thankfully they found a fix. There's a simple 3d printable fix that can flip the endstop. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5458320 This should fix the issue for you. Let me know if it doesn't!
There shouldn't be a problem with onboard firmware not being updated after sitting for a period of time. Was this firmware ever working for you, is this a problem that is just starting now?
Hey Matt, I released some Marlin based firmwares for the Aquolas along with this video. They're available on my website and there should be some links for them in the description. That being said they are older firmwares (compiled around the date of this video). So if you are looking to get Marlin based firmwares that are up to 300c you may be able to find some more updated ones out there. If you have firmware and you're just looking for the process take a look at my original Aquila bl touch setup video. I go over now to format the SD card and then install the new firmware.
Hello Leo. I am about to install the creality sprite pro dd kit on my Aquila x2 n32 chip. I do not have the Bl / cl touch. When I navigate through the links for firmware I am unsure what one I need to download and use? Can you point me in the right direction please? They all only talk about Bl or manual mesh. Is this still the firmware for the sprite mod? It’s misleading and I don’t want to mess up.
Hey great questions as you want to make sure you have the correct firmware else you'll be in a world of hurt lol if you are not using a bed probe you'll want to use the firmware labelled 'Manual Mesh' this firmware is the same as a 'no probe' style firmware except it also gives you the option to create a mesh manually without the use of a probe. So that's what you'll want to pick! One thing to note, the way I compiled the firmware I forgot to remove a feature called Z safe home, which homes the nozzle at the center of the bed (instead of the front left cornerer). So my manual mesh firmware is still going to home the nozzle at the center of the bed, it does nothing different so don't worry. Let me know if you need any more info on this.
@@PrintsLeo3D awesome thank you! Is there anything that i need to be print that you can think of before I do the install that will prevent me from being able to finish the job? This being my only printer, I don’t want to get it all done and realize there was a part I had to print to make this all work as intended.
I think I answered my own question with finding a dog comment where you talked about the print needed to flip the X axis mechanical endstop switch. Going to print that now.
Tiphys yes! Another excellent question ad I'm sorry for myage reply but you are correct the X axis print is used more often than not now after the job is finished. Other than that you should be good to go! Let me know how it works out for you..
Glad this was helpful for you! You do not need a cr/bl touch to use this. You could use this just as well (well that's up for debate lol) using it without a probe and keeping the z limit switch as your z axis limit endstop. If you are looking for firmware that leans that route (and you have an Aquila) you can find it on my website (printsleo3d.com) under the section Firmware > Marlin > Aquila Sprite Extruder The option you would be looking for is any firmware that starts with MM which stands for manual mesh. The manual mesh firmware let's you use your printer as you normally would without a probe, but it gives you the option to create a mesh manually, which is what a cr/bl touch does automatically. So by using that Manual Mesh firmware you have the ability to get the same or similar benefits as you would with a probe, without owning one!
@@PrintsLeo3D I have a cr touch on the way so might just wait till then lol have a hard time understanding all the lingo lol as I literally bought a voxelab and used it till it clogged and then got the sprite followed your video and got it in but now im a little lost. do you have a video explaining how to do the firmware upgrade and then after how I would set it all up with the cr touch?
Sorry about all the jargon, I usually do my best to speak/type in a way that newcomers can grasp but sometimes when I rush I use all the shorthand lol I have an Aquila BL Touch video that goes over the physical install as well as the firmware upgrade. It's a long video, the first half is physical install and the second half is firmware upgrade. By physical install I mean running the bl touch cable to the mainboard in the printer, installing a new hot end shroud that can hold a bl touch and then routing the wires from the mainboard to the BL Touch. The physical part of the video will not apply to you because the Sprite has that set up differently. *Also I should mention whenever I say BL Touch the same info applies for a CR Touch When installing the Sprite did you plug in the 5 pin connector to the 'bl touch' port of the mainboard? If you did that would be the mainboard side of things. All that's left is screwing the bl touch into the section of the shroud designated to hold it(see in my video). Then using the bl touch wire that (hopefully) came with your Sprite you would just connect one side of the cable to the bl touch and the other side to the back of thr Sprite breakout board. The firmware side of things isn't too rough but it's the part that can be fraught with human error. I have firmware on my website that applies to the BL touch version of the sprite too. You would download that file, then copy the file to an empty SD card (preferably one you just formatted FAT32/4096 bytes by right clicking the card and selecting format with those options). On the Sd card create a folder named 'firmware' and put the firmware file within it. Power down the printer, insert the SD card, then power the printer back on. The firmware flash will commence without you doing anything and be finished within 30 seconds. The screen to the Aquila has firmware also that will need to be flashed. The process is similar to the mainboard but differs in some areas. I would suggest watching the latter half of my bl touch video on the correct way to go about both of these procedures! Let me know when you get it if you need any help. ruclips.net/video/ARAhqgkfBMo/видео.html
hello, after installing and flashing (G32), I encountered a strange problem. The head starts to heat up immediately after switching on. No settings affect the process. Any ideas? would be very grateful
The first thing I would think to do is try flashing s new firmware and see if the issue persists after changing. If this problem is still there I would first make sure all the connectors kn the breakout board are secure. After that look at the mainboardz specifically the connections for the heater cartridge. Make sure they are seperated and fully inserted. Was this problem happening after install or only after firmware install?
@@PrintsLeo3D The problem arose after installation, changing the firmware does not give any results. True, at first I forgot to connect the thermocouple connector. After connecting the connector, it just started to get warm every time it was turned on (((
Interesting issue. The heating cartridge is just a big resistor, and it works when the mainboard allows power to be sent to it. If it's powering on immediately it makes me think this is a mainboard issue, but is the hot end actual getting heat? I had to re-sort the heating cartridge wires within the terminal block during my install, maybe that can be an option for you, but I don't really see how that would affect this. When you turn the printer on, the temp immediately heats up, but is the heating block actually getting heat or is the thermistor malfunctioning? If this was my printer I would want to see if there is heat going into the hot end. This can be dangerous so if you did this you need to take special care to not burn yourself! Also don't touch any of the wires going into the block (thermistor or cartridge) while the printer is powered on. If you have some sort of thermal temp gauge you can use to detect Temperature that is the safest way. Outside of that I would hold my hand near the nozzle/heat block and see if I can feel heat radiating from it. Again, take extreme caution and only do this if you feel completely confident you will not burn yourself. If you have stability or other dexterity issues than ask someone to assist you or choose to not apply this test at all. Again try this test at your own risk and please if you do attempt this take every available precaution to not burn/injure yourself. The main goal would be to find out if the nozzle is actually getting heat.
My guess is either there is some sort of defect in the wiring from the Sprite, or somehow the MOSFET on your mainboard that controls the heating cartridge has went, and it's applying the full 24v as soon as the printer powers on.
Thanks for the compliment! The fans are actually really quiet. I was supposed to mention that during the video but I forgot it! When I first powered it on I thought it was broken because I didn't hear anything but it was just a quieter set of fans than the stock fans.
¡Hola, Juan, gracias por mirar! Tengo firmware que compilé para My Aquilas que están equipados con el Sprite. Si va a mi sitio web (www.printsleo3d.com), luego a la sección de firmware, puede encontrar firmware para Sprite. Si desea usarlo, primero haga que sea adecuado para su impresora. ¡Espero que ayude!
@@PrintsLeo3D Perdona pero apenas se de esto. No encuentro los archivos de la pantalla (DWIN_SET). Aparte he cargado el tuyo y no me carga nada en la impresora. No tengo bltouch y he intentado con dos MM, el de 3 y el de 10. No se cual debo de utilizar. Creo que lo estoy haciendo mal. Por favor si puedes ayudame, gracias. Tengo la Aquila con chip G32
Juan, actualmente estoy usando el traductor de Google para entender y responder a tus comentarios. Primero debería hacer una copia de seguridad y preguntar, ¿qué impresora estás usando?
Unfortunately not without a free fir.ware side changes. The Ender 3 Max and the Aquila use two different display types and they aren't plug and play replacements of each other.
I think Jyers/mrisoc firmware would be the best go to right now, as they are tuned for the Enders. If you want I can try and compile some firmware for you that will suit your needs?
Just email me printsleo3d@gmail.com or join my Discord (link in description) this way we can go back and forth with exactly what you printer has setup and how to compile it.
New subscriber... Great video... I literally just ordered my Sprite extruder before I found this vid for my heavily modified Aquila (klipper/dual z/btt e3miniv3) (if I can even call it that anymore... thesisus's ship i guess)... I'll definitely give your profiles a go and I'm beyond impressed with your attention to detail and content.
Thanks for watching, for subscribing, and for letting me know these videos work! My Aquila is still stock board but also running Klipper. So while the base parameters of my profiles should be pretty good you'll probably want to tweak the speed settings. I'm currently running 130mm/s with the sprite (it has a nice max volumetric flow rate) but I kept the speeds conservative for the profiles. Thanks again and happy printing !
If you go to my website I have Sprite firmware for the N32 chipped Aquila. If you aren't using a probe you'll choose the Manual Mesh option (which gives you the ability to still create and use a mesh without a probe). If you are using a probe then you can use any of the BL options I have listed. Of course whichever you choose make sure the chip is correct.
Congrats on getting your Creality Sprite Pro to work on your Voxlabs printer. Question: is the Voxlab a clone of a Creality Machine? Specifically, is the board of your machine a clone of a Creality board? I'm asking because I'm going to put a Sprite Pro on a BIQU Hurakan. Trying to figure out what's going to happen before it happens. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for watching! Yes to your first question, the Voxelab is a clone of the Ender 3 V2. The boards are 'similar' but different. Specifically (and I could be misremembering this) the ground + and - sides of the heater terminals are reversed, which is why I had to reverse them during installation. You should be able to install this on any board as long as you know what connectors you are plugging everything into. I also have a Sprite Pro running on a BTT SKR miniE3v2 board, but again just double check all the connections (+) and (-) are correct when you connect them. Like you saw in my video though for the heating cartridge it shouldn't matter, but if those polarities are wrong you'll just get a shutdown and need to reverse them. Good luck, let me know how it goes.
@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you very much for getting back to me. I'm putting my Sprite Pro on a BIQU Hurakan (with Klipper). The thing I'm concerned about, or wary of is the E-motor rotation. The motors in my Hurakan aren't Creality brand. So the direction of the extruder might become an issue. The other thing is e-steps / or "rotational distance" as it's now called in Klipper. I've watched a video about how to figure that out and change in in Mainsail / Fluuid. But knowing and doing, those are different experiences. Anyways, thank you for the video. There aren't enough videos about putting a Sprint Pro on Printer X / aka Not A Creality Machine; your's is the first one I found this morning. Mark
Because you're using Klipper you're in luck because a lot of this stuff will be easier (although won't seem that way at first). For the direction of the motor it's not going to matter. You can change the direction of the extruder motor within the printer configuration file (it's a text document Klipper used to control your printer). Simply putting -or omitting- an exclamation point (!) before the direction of the motor will reverse the direction. Simple fix. As for rotation distance it's easy. The Sprite has its own extruder motor and the recommend esteps are 424.5(I believe, this is from memory). Based on the extruder specs, to change that to rotation distance you would take 3200 and divide it by the esteps(424.5), which brings your rot distance to 7.538. now that's based on the stock numbers and I always recommend to calibrate it yourself, but my numbers were almost identical, somewhere in the 7.0s so it's a great place to start.
@@PrintsLeo3D Sorry to bug you, but I ran into a few snags. The good news is I compensate those who help me. If you don't mind, here's what I'm stuck on. 1. The Fan+ and the Fan- wires: my printer's Manta m4p board doesn't have another 24v-gnd socket to put them in, but it does have 4 two-pin connects. Each has 24v on one side, and (I'm assuming) a ground pin on the other. I changed the ferrules on the non-control wires to one two-pin connector, with the + on the left and the - on the right. If I plug it into a two-pin connector like I described, is that going to work? I'm asking because this is the third board for my Hurakan. I was trying to install BIQU's top end extruder, and ended up destroying the board, three stepper drivers and a 7" monitor. 2. What is the K-Fan? And where does it get power from? I have another two pin connector just like the one described above. The manual describes the K-Fan as the Control Fan. What is it controlling, or, what is controlling it?
Victor I don't think it is. I don't own an Aquila Pro and I'm not very familiar with it's components, but I believe this is the Aquila that uses a mainboard as well as a smaller breakout board. Because of that feature, as well as the onboard probe, that may not play nice with the sprites break out board (again I can't confirm because I don't own one) I would think this is not an easily compatible mod like it is for other Aquila models.
Hallo, ich habe es genau so gemacht, nur ist der BLTouch am Mainboard angeschlossen und nicht am Extruder. Ich bekomme das Bedleveling aber nicht mehr hin. Woran kann es liegen?
Ich verwende Google Translate, um Ihre Frage zu verstehen und zu beantworten. Ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob ich Ihre Frage verstehe. Hat der BL Touch jemals für Sie funktioniert?
Ok, so it sounds like your nozzle is too far from the bed while printing. That is controlled by the Z-offset which can be found under the PREPARE menu. When inside the Z-offset menu you can lower the nozzle closer to the bed, and then save that setting after you're satisified. I would be happy to explain more if you need.
I have a spare Sprite extruder (I upgraded my S1 to the 300° sprite "pro" ) I want to mount on my Aquila. Does anyone know where to get the "kit" parts without then the extruder/hotend itself? Specifically the cables and the extruder support bracket (the gantry) that rides on the T slot.... I checked everywhere I could think of and cant find these parts sold separately from the kit.
I can't seem to find much myself. I found this 3d printable bracket, but it's probably only a start because the dimensions are possibly off. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5423518 I sent a message to Creality asking about these products but they are 'out of office' currently, so I will let you know when they contact me.
@@PrintsLeo3D Wow, thanks Leo! I found that bracket as well but got "scared off" by the "Dimensions may not be perfect" ... I didnt really want to disassemble my S1 to compare the dimensions, but I think I will print it and see how it comes out. Keep me posted if you get any leads on the factory bracket. Your effort is greatly appreciated!
Yea the old "dimensions have been eyeball'ed" is never a great start lol I will let you know when they contact me. In the meantime I'll be on the lookout.
They ended up responding to me with the most generic "check our website" email of all time. So right now I don't know of any avenue to find one, I'm sorry. THE EMAIL: Dear Customer, Thank you for contacting us and sorry for the late reply. According to the content of your email, Here are our suggestions for your problem 1. store.creality.com/ or www.creality3dofficial.com/ Or www.aliexpress.com/store/4297005?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000061.1.19063a81jfERuO 2. I suggest you look at the above websites or go to Amazon
Hey Jeremy! For the Aquila and the Aquila X2 they are for intents and purposes the same printer. So this will absolutely fit. The problem you'll run into, as you suspected, is the chip that's in the main board. I can't compile firmware for the H32, so you would be limited to the small amount of community released firmware (Alex's firmware if you're familiar), or firmware from Voxelab's official page. If you're confused about those differences, what they mean, and the options available to you, let me know and I can explain in more detail!
I'm sorry I never replied to this, RUclips flagged this comment for some reason (??) and I never saw it. You could go with a Voxelab board with a different chip (G32, N32). One of the Creality offerings like the 4.2.7 silent board, or something from BigTreeTech like an SKR mini E3V3
YOU ARE AWESOME MAN. EVERYTIME I HAVE AN EMERGENCY/ PROBLEM THERES ONLY 1 VIDEO THAT HAS THE ANSWER . YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i couldnt figure out / find solution why screen kept restarting
I really don't use filament runout sensors nearly as much as I should, and I like the added benefit the Smart sensor offers - not just being a simple filament runout. If that's something you're interested in I can certainly order one and start on a video! I think it's a worthwhile addition and something that could help people.
@@PrintsLeo3D That's great! I look forward to your next videos. I frequently run into extruder grinding/eating into filament and this sensor maybe a lifesaver for long haul prints. I wonder if you'll have to reconcile smart sensor firmware with Alex's BLT firmware. For the grinding issues, I'm testing out a variety of fixes. My latest suspicion is that I might have old, moisture-damaged PLA. I followed your guides on BMG dual-gear extruder and BLT installation and they worked beautifully. Your Aquila contents are just unrivaled! I just ordered 2 Z axis upgrade kits from your last videos, just in case I need to replace stock Z axis as well. I look forward to your video with Z axis with timing belt. I wonder if it's gonna be better than the dual motor kit I ordered. Or better yet, can we merge them together to make dual Z axis motor with timing belt? 😝
Lol timing belt and two stepper motors that'd be a trip! I am finding up the timing belt version of the dual Z axis as we speak should probably be out next week sometime. In the end they both, timing belt and dual stepper, turned out well for me. For the firmware I think they'll need to. E a few adjustments but I'm not too sure, need to look under the hood again at Alex's firmware. I think filament runout sensor might not be active default but I always turn it on to have access to multi color printing.
this sprite upgrade has been the most frustrating thing i've done with 3d printing. still cant get the new 4.2.7 board to load with the sprite plugged in.
@PrintsLeo3D not yet. Tried to compile my own code, but the z axis sits 5 inches too high. Focused on fixing my blown engine now over plating with pribters
Compiling the complete Marlin firmware from scratch can definitely be daunting. Good luck with the engine and hopefully you get that printer up and running soon too.
Paul that's a really great question! I'm not a fan of the hot end on the S2. On the S2 the nozzle options are limited and the overall setup leaves a lot to be desired. This upgrade is pricey but if it was my printer I would upgrade. This is in itself is a great hot end, and the fact that it makes long term use easier (over the stock S2 hotend) I would say it's safe to devote money to upgrading. Edit: that being said if you aren't having issues you can save some money and wait. Just keep in mind at some point you'll need to replace the nozzle on the S2 and it's a poor setup.
I'm considering the Sprite for this very reason. I'm about to begin printing more abrasive filaments and the cost of Voxelabs proprietary nozzles and shipping are not much less than the cost of this entire extruder.
Yea that stock S2 setup was a real let down. Having now printed with the Sprite for over 2 months I can say it's lived up to expectations. Haven't had any issues with it so far, and now's it's printing with Klipper and doing well even with those high printing speeds.
Hey Kurt! Did you do any firmware changes? If you just did an install onto your H32 printer without needing with firmware there shouldn't be any problems with it working. Is the hot end itself responding, for instance will it auto home? Or is it not extruding ?
I turn power on and I get a blank backlit screen. I have updated the firmware. Still blank. Checked, double checked and triple checked all cables. When updating screen firmware, it goes Blue then Orange. But then on restart, its just blank.
Which firmware did you install? I've heard mixed things about Alex's H32 firmware, don't have an H32 to try myself. I know that chip is really stubborn. Edit: also I just want to make sure you plugged the ribbon cable for the screen back into the mainboard
I tried Alex's firmware, then I thought maybe it could be a firmware issue, so I tried voxelab's official firmware with no success... I've ordered a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 MainBoard and a dual Z axis screw rod upgrade to eliminate sag. I'll try unplugging the CR touch and reflashing original firmware when I get home tonight, but I'm not very optimistic, I think my H32 board is toast.
This is the CR touch I hooked up to the Aquila,, but it should work just the same for the bl touch. Only difference is the mounting, as they have different mounting dimensions. If you want I will double check and plug my BL touch in tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure I did this when I filmed to check , and I know memebers of the Discord are using this with bl touches. Was it working prior to any firmware changes ?
My Ender 3 pro came with hot glue all over the motherboard. It was really difficult to remove connections and after all that, we can’t get the hit end to heat up. 😢
Liam, they love securing everything with glue, and it can be a really trouble to take it all off. What sort of error (if any) are you receiving ? Are the temperatures at 0c? Are they just not heating up at all ?
I found out yesterday that the hot end wire wasn’t actually connected to the daughter board.😂 it worked great after that. It was actually really frustrating to get the old connections removed. I’m thinking about buying a silent motherboard. Which one is best for Ender 3 pro?
If you wanted to stay with something from Creality the 4.2.7 silent mainboard is a nice and quiet option. If you are looking aftermarket the BigTreeTech SKR Mini series is another choice. The SKR mini E3V2 or SKR mini E3V3 are both mainboards I've used on some of my machines. Though to be honest if you're looking for just basic functionality, with a silent upgrade, then the Creality 4.2.7 board may be the easiest option.
I bought a direct drive voxelab S3, unhappy with it compared to the more primitive C2 I owned. The new voxelab doesn't have the classic customizable features the original C2 had... You can't adjust flow rate, baby step x or y during the print.. You can't even set home offsets. Its very frustrating when something goes wrong... you can easily damage your printer or print... You need these advanced parameters especially for a model that reaches higher temperatures for things like nylon printing and PC
The Aquila S2, in my opinion, was a bit of a misstep for Voxelab. I liked the direction they were heading with it, but the execution was a little lackluster. The proprietary print head and nozzle made a budget friendly easily-modifiable printer into any but that. I also did not like the C2 because often for the same price you could find an Aquila X2 which was easier to work with. I am glad you had success with the C2 though and hopefully are still finding your way with the S2.
@@PrintsLeo3D Awesome ya will probably take me forever but it's so nice to have something to follow! taught myself all this stuff just to make my own drones but I'm a hairdresser so it's a whole new world.
Oh wow that's awesome! Drones seem so cool to me but it's not something I ever explored. I'm sure 3d printing is a great compliment to working with drones.
@@PrintsLeo3D Yes I taught myself autocad aand 3d printing on youtube to be able to design my first drone. It is so much fun and with your knowledge how could you have more fun than bloody flying drones you've designed! here's a great video to learn the basics ruclips.net/video/Rdb347xARfA/видео.html
After doing this mod on my S2 it no longer begins a print after preheating. It will reach target temps and then just hover around around them, but never beginning. If I go to "tune" and lower the target temp for the extruder a few degrees it then immediately begins printing.
I left a response to this earlier I don't know why not seeing it, so sorry if this is a double post. I would try a different version of my firmware, 4x4 or 5x5, to see if the problem is related to this firmware.
My issue I’m having is my bl touch is sitting just a little lower then my nozzle. When I’m trying to get my X offset the bl touch is touching the plate first
Quentin, that can be a rough issue. If the BL Touch is sitting too high you can shim it downwards, but when it's too low there's not many options-especially with the stock probe. Is this a branded BL touch or a clone? It really shouldn't matter as in my experience they are roughly the same exact size. I did find this remixed model that can attach the probe father back on the Sprite It's possible to make some minor edits to this to make the bl touch sit farther from the build plate. If you can't make edits like that on this model let me know, and I can see what I can do for you!
@@PrintsLeo3D it’s the branded bl touch that came with the sprite drive. I have no idea how to edit anything to be honest. I’m still learning printing in general. I’d appreciate the help!
Ok, is it possible to send me a pic of the front of the printer, showing how close the probe tip and the nozzle tip are in relation to one another. You can send me it through email (printsleo3d@gmail.com) or through Discord (link in description).
Thank you so much! Always appreciate you dropping me a comment! This sprite has been a really nice addition, so I am glad more people are seeing this. Thanks!
Watching this, why not use a needle and just swap the small connectors ? They all should be very similar if not identical for the BL touch? Same for the fans, I would just swap the factory plug for whatever came on my fan.
For the fans you could do that. When you get a new fan just release the plug it came with, release the plug from the older fans and make the swap. For the BL touch you can't because you're only going to have one connector that is correct. I believe the small connector that goes into the BL touch is a molex pico blade(not jst), and the connector going into the Sprite is also the Molex pico blade. So one side is going to be wrong. I have since received a few more of these Sprites, and each one has come with the BL Touch cable already, so more likely than not you're not going to have to order one yourself.
Hey don't feel bad they never even sent me one the first time lol if you ever want to get a bl touch the cable is inexpensive, you can get it from DigiKey for like $11 or something like that! Good luck
Found it! It was in my draw I printed for my printer under my cutters. So I looked at least 3 times never moving the cutters but I needed to use my cutters and found it! Sweet! I’ll be using your profile soon enough to up my printer temp to 300C for nylon (RC parts) do you know if it’s toxic? If I’m able to print it in a room I use often.
If you're going to be printing nylon you'll definitely want to take some hefty safety precautions. Nylon can emit toxins whole printing, so using an enclosure and properly filtration is key. Nylon can be a tricky beast to print too, make sure you dry that filament well before using, and as always be safe!
I have compiled a version of Firmware with linear advance, but in the Aquila boards it requires some soldering and wire jumping to make it work. What type of mainboard do you have?
Thank you for the kind words I appreciate that. I'm trying to help as best to can do when these videos or my website does that I am happy. If you're further interested in that linear advance firmware let me know!
Yes you can! The entire setup is exactly the same for the S2 as it is for the Aquila, with the one difference being you are taking a direct extruder off already. To be honest it's a pricey upgrade but it's so worth it for the S2 because the hot end on that is really not the best for long term use.
Awesome! I am actually installing another of these on my Ender 5 this week! I've really been liking the prints it has been putting out. If you need any other help let me know, as I have Ender 3 Pros and V2s so I am familiar with them. Thanks for the question and the compliment!
@26:55 was so painful to watch! For a guy that has done this 100 times, I would think you'd have it dialed? I absolutely don't mean any disrespect as your videos have been my go-to ever since I got my X2 over a year ago. However, if you simply LOOSEN the nuts on the top two wheels slightly, the carriage drops right on. You do not need to completely remove any of the wheels/nuts and especially not the eccentric nut.
Well in my defense I haven't done this particular mod 100s of times lol I know a lot of people who have been able to simply loosen all the wheels and remove the carriage, but for me that wasn't my experience. While I figured I was an outlier I try and consider the larger audience watching me, and I don't mind doing a little extra work to try and help those people. I understand though as there's been plenty of tutorials that I've watched where I've seen the person doing something k wouldn't have lol I appreciate the feedback though every bit information I can get helps! Thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D I didn’t mean any disrespect, man. I apologize for sounding like a dick! I appreciate your videos and everything you do regarding the Aquila. It is definitely an under-appreciated printer and at its price point, I consider it one of the best values out there in their stock form and work absolutely great as such. But, with any Ender 3 upgrades being compatible you can turn an X2 into a hot plastic slinging monster, very inexpensively. I have three of them now and they have their small issues just like any other printer but they are easy to fix and just keep printing, flawlessly! As long as you know what you’re doing to maintain it and that’s where your videos got me to where I am now. 👌🏼
No not at all! I didn't mean sound defensive so I apologize lol Yea that's why I love these Aquilas they really do fly under that radar in terms of perform. Especially with all the buzz about BambuLabs and the faster coreXY machines it's nice to be able to find a printer that is still very capable for a fraction of the cost. I appreciate the support and the comments! Means a lot to me , thank you.
I don't remember saying that, but it's certainly something I would say lol glad I got your attention and I appreciate you leaving me a comment, thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D at 16:45 ty for all of the in depth content, you've singlehandedly saved wasted plastic and you're probably responsible for half of voxelab's sales
Thank you for your work. according to the instructions from this video, I installed a direct drive on my Aquila printer. installed the firmware from your site. printed the softest tpu plastic from the first time without any problems.
Excellent!!! Glad this worked out for you! I have two Sprites installed so far and both have been performing great! Thanks for watching and letting me know this all helped !
Quick september 2023 update. Just bought a Sprite Pro kit from Creality. Got home in two days (Canada hey!). Extruder design has slightly changed since there is no more screw holding the hotend thermistor. It seems to be glued in place. Not sure if it's an upgrade since I've previously replaced a few in the past. It may not be as easy anymore. And my kit came with the CR Touch cable 👌. I've installed the kit on my old old plane jane Ender 3 which was already direct drive modified with the stock motor and a cheap Amazon dual gear aluminium extruder . The Sprite pro kit weight 240 gr less than my former configuration. Stock motor weight is considerable. Thanks for that great video once again. Now let's update firmware and Marlin on this old workhorse...
Sound great! I've noticed a lot more of these kits are coming equipped with that cr touch cable. I have a feeling they saw an issue with that screw holding in the thermistor, and decided to remove it. I've had mine held in place just like that, sans screw, for some time now. Great to hear you got this hooked up and running!
@@PrintsLeo3D hey I'm new to printing and I'm having an issue after installing this equipment. When I go to auto level the machine keeps going down after touching the print bed. Luckily nothing has broken but I don't know how to fix this. Any ideas?
Wow! Once again, another very well thought out n thorough vid!
Being new to 3d printing, i didn't even know about any of these options. And i just spent a day finding, modifying n making filament guides like a sucker for the stock setup! 🤣
Yea there is a TON that you can customize, change, or modify in some way. You don't need to do it all, and certainly not all at once, so that's why I do it in my videos. Gives you an idea whats on the horizon and some tips to help if you decide to try go there! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment !
Thanks so much for the video Leo, this was incredibly helpful!
I do have a couple questions though. After setting all of this up and installing the new firmware I decided to buy a BL Touch (the one you provided in the link). First question is I don't know where the black and white wire connector for the BL Touch is supposed to plug in.
Second, as I've seen in another comment, I don't seem to have the recommended clearance between the BL Touch and the nozzle as recommended in your other video where you're setting up the BL Touch on the Aquila; the issue with this is that I don't have the ability to raise the BL Touch any higher due to the mount on the Sprite Pro. Do you have any recommendations on how I might increase the clearance distance to the recommended 2.3-4.3mm?
Thanks again for all your help!
Hey Quantum, thanks for watching and giving me an opportunity to help out ! For the white and black wires, you should double check the wiring specs that came with the touch but it's likely, those two are the remaining ground and output wires. Some of the bl touches (especially from Creality) color the wires differently, which is why I said to double check, but if those end up being ground (black) and output (white) then can be plugged in accordingly at the end of the 5 pin bl touch port.
As for mounting the bl touch I have had some success and some difficulty. One of my Sprites I was able to mount up the touch and all was good, but I know a lot of people have not been so lucky. You also have the clearance issue as well, and this next suggestion should take care of both issues. Here are two mounts that are able to hold a bl touch and also giving you the ability to adjust clearance.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5555432
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5411490
The first puts the probe on the opposite side of the hot end, so if you go with that mount make sure you adjust the x and y offsets accordingly!
Thank you Leo. After one too many hot end issues, I was looking for some kind of direct drive, and this one was on the short list. I then googled “creality sprite pro voxelab aquila”, and your video popped up! That made me smile as I’ve always found your videos to be well thought out and presented. Suffice to say, I’ve now made my decision, and will be using this video during my install. Heartfelt thanks and keep doing what you do! 🙂
Oh wow thank you so much! That means a lot to me, and not only your really kind words but also the fact that my video did what it intended to do. Inform you in a concise and easy(hopefully) to understand way to help you on your 3d printing journey. I really thank you for sharing this with me, it made my night !
@@PrintsLeo3D You’re welcome mate. Well deserved. Best wishes from the UK.
@@PrintsLeo3D Oh, and if you ever need any help on the Linux side of stuff, please reach out. It’s what I do for a living. 🙂
Wow, really!! I may take you up on that offer at some point. My knowledge of the Linux side of these setups is limited (at best), so finding resources that know more than I do (which isn't hard lol) is invaluable. Thank you!
@@PrintsLeo3D Again, you are more than welcome. You helped immensely. I’m actually fitting the sprite now, and the only problem I’ve run in to, is the sensor on the X axis. The new carriage doesn’t make contact with it, so it just crashes in to the left side. This is on a stock Aquila. Any ideas?
Hello, I just installed the Sprite Pro on my Aquila S2. When I tried to heat the nozzle, it shutdown and restarted with an M112 error. I did what you said and reversed the nozzle heating wires and it doesn't shut down now, but I still get an M112 error that won't go away. I have installed your Aquila Sprite Extruder firmware as well. Should I switch to the Alex firmware? Thanks!
Recently someone else had a similar issue and it ended up being an issue with a wire being burnt out (I think). Can you check (visually) the wiring harness where it attached to the break out board , as well as the main board itself to check for any sort of shorting out damage.
@@PrintsLeo3D I will do that, thanks!
I was just wondering if this would work on an Aquila Pro? I've heard they are locked into the voxelmaker system more agressively?
Geoff, I'm not too sure as I don't own an Aquila Pro, but I believe it will not. I think the current hot end is tied to a breakout board, which is likely tied to the firmware. Changing one or more of those will be a tough hill to climb. Again, take this with a grain of salt, I don't own one but this seems to be the case based on talking to people that do have an Aquila Pro.
Greetings! My sprite kit just arrived? Just to try to speed things up and get an experts reference point, what where your offset settings for the Cr touch and your flow adjustments?
Hey I'm sorry in advance that this answer is going to be a little wishy washy, but I'm on vacation and not at home so I don't have access to my settings. If you go to my website I have a webpage dedicated to the Sprite, and there you should be able to find the offsets and the profile I was using! (PrintsLeo3d.com)
If you need some more help let me know and I'll do my best when I get back home !
Man I tell ya as someone who printed again some stuff with my voxelab Aquila last night and every time I ever have a plastic whatnot I need the last year. I haven’t had a problem yet with it it’s insane how reliable it has been since I followed your tutorial on firmware and bltouch install.
I also got the magnetic gold pei or whatever bed and ive only ever used pla+ usually esun or polymaker and I’ve never had a issue printing anything I’ve tried even some really big prints.
I might look into upgrading it when it stops working the dual z axis screws and direct drive would be sweet but at this point it’s hard to want to touch it mechanically while it is so plug n play literally haven’t printed anything in two months and turned it on heated it up let the bed re mesh and pushed print and walked away and boom perfect print last nite again for a couple wall hangers I needed to hand a few potted plants haha. Really the amount of things I have printed with this printer is astonishing. The first 6 months it never shut down haha .
It’s been the best $200 I have every spent in everything I think the printer was like $150 bltouch was like $30 and pie bed was like $20
I guess if I wanted to print some other high heat materials I will get me a new hot end.
I'm so happy to hear that your Aquila is working out! These printers while inexpensive are really capable of amazing consistent results. The PEI sheet and the BL Touch also make printing feel like a breeze. I know the feeling of not wanting to mess with anything while the printer is doing it's job, just keep all these things on the back burner until you need another project lol Thanks for leaving the comment !
@@PrintsLeo3D yeah brother thanks for your videos you got me into running this thing so always grateful have a good weekend brother
Thanks man I appreciate that. Have a good one!
I also want to upgrade my aquila withe the sprite. I already have a cr touch, would the cable that it already has work in case my kit doesn't include one ?
Yes and no lol if you want to use the dedicated break out board that's on the back of the Sprite then your current cable will not work. The cable you have now has a JST connector on one side and a molex picoblade connector on the other (the side that plugs into the touch). The breakout board on the Sprite requires a picoblade connector on both sides of the cable.
You could choose to bypass the breakout board and connect the CR touch directly to the main board, and in that case the cable you have now would work just as it is.
Luckily I have found a lot of these units are now shipping with the correct cable. So I think you're going to be in luck but at least you have a back up plan just in case (bypassing the breakout board). Hope this helps and let me know if you need anything else!
I installed this back in July. I immediately noticed that the max x direction exceeded the length of X past the y axis bracket so that the lower screw in the x carriage bangs on it. I have tried adjusting the offsets to no avail. I think I need to shorten the maximum travel in the x direction and the only way to do that, as I see it, is to do it in the firmware and reassemble it. Do you have any instructions on how to do that?
Changing the max bed size for this would definitely need to be done firmware side, but the process can be a little complicated. I don't have a video myself on this process but you'd need to download seperate software to be able to edit and then compile the correct firmware (I believe it's called Platform IO which I think is a plugin for Microsoft VS code). Depending on your printer I may have some firmware that is set up similar and would work. What except printer are you using and what is the current hot end setup?
@dmatheson1
Yes, I have VS Code and PlatformIO installed. I cloned Alexqzd's Marlin branch and attempted to compile it unmodified, but it failed. It appears that PlatformIO is no longer compatible with that "old" code. It's amazing how fast this stuff gets out of date. I have the 4x4 BLTouch (1.3.5.1) firmware currently installed. That is the one I want to modify. I have an Aquila X2 with the Creality Sprite hot end installed. I have a BLTouch attached to that. I used the Creality carriage and the tab that hits the x axis home switch (I think) is just way too long, causing my issue.
I got hung up on the fan+ and the fan- wires and the k-fan connector. Any advice would be very appreciated.
What are you having trouble with regarding the fans? Are you able to trace back the original fans on the printer and tell where they are plugged in? This way we can determine which one would get plugged in which spot.
Hai , thanks for this vid, I ordered a Sprite so watching youtube vids about it > Becaus I also own a Aquila this one is perfect. But.......I saw you removing the fanconnector of the circuitboard (16:48) and a moment later you say that's the connector of the pasrts cooling fan (17:14) ??? I'm a bit confused now. I don't have the Sprite yet (on its way) and I'm sure when I get to it I'll see where it supposed to gofrom where it is now, so that leaves me time to mention it here and hope you'll see it and reply before I get my Sprite. Seeing this vid is from a while ago .Thanks for your work and keep it up.greetings from the Netherlands.
Greetings! Thanks for watching and I'm glad you decided on the Sprite, it's worked wonders for me. The fan I remove at 16:48 is the mainboard cooling fan, it's the fan that blows on the board and cools it down. It should be unplugged and plugged back in to the same connector when the install is complete. The parts cooling fan is a separate connector but it's right next to that mainboard cooling fan. Those fans are connected 'in-line' meaning they are both either powered on or powered off together. When the cooling fan is turned on the mainboard fan is also turned on.
So for this mainboard those two connectors are sort of interchangeable, as they are both either on or off together.
As you move through this install it will all make a lot more sense. Good luck and if you need help while you are installing please let me know.
You make awesome and thorough videos. Thank you. 😊
Wow, thanks for leaving an awesome comment! I appreciate it!
I didn't know you had a discord channel. I might have to come by and say "hi"
Thanks for another great and thorough video. This is not the same d.d. system I have but it was still helpful and gave me the basics. You're the best!
Always appreciate when you drop and comment! Yea I didn't know what Discord was but I had so many different email chains oing talking to people one of them mentioned to look into Discord and I'm glad I did. Now it's all in one place it's great! Can't wait to see you on there!
@@PrintsLeo3D can you send me an invite to your discord server, I'd love to join up but looks like I need an invite link I'm still new to discord as well. The link in your description diesnt go to your channel just to the app itself. Thanks
I can absolutely send the link ! discord.gg/YHFJEjFv
I have been having so much issues with this discord link, last video had the same problem where the link would not bring people to my Discord. Thanks for letting me know, I'll see you on Discord!
What build plates are you using on these two Aquilas that you are showing in this video?
Both of the build plates are textured PEI coated flex sheets. They have excellent adhesion and when you're finished printing you can remove them(they are attached via a magne) then flex the build surface and the print pops off. It's really amazing. I have a video that goes over two types
ruclips.net/video/XhqA8gU7PE0/видео.html
I bought this with the cr touch I’ve been having tons of issues with it solved most of them now my main issue is with leveling i tried silicone spacers and the yellow springs tightened the bed checked the z axis if there is slack and adjusted and tightened everything still same issue with leveling any idea even changed the bed surface from glass to pei back to glass
Yea I would love to help! What exactly are the issues you're having with leveling? Is the material not sticking? Is it non printing uniform on the first layer? If you want to join my Discord we can exchange pictures and videos easily which makes diagnosing these issues easier. discord.gg/YHFJEjFv
Thanks for this video you always do a good job and easy to understand, So the simple fact is not to waste money on upgrades that take money and time and add little benefit. It's a cheap machine we should keep it that way unless we have problems with it.
I can understand your points but overall I disagree with this take. The Sprite is an expensive upgrade no doubt, it only offers, direct extrusion, a dual geared extruder, high temp printing, and is lightweight. You could add those feature for around 1/2 the cost. Would this be my first recommendation for someone looking for these upgrades? Probably not, but saying you shouldn't put money into a low cost printers seems short sighted. I'm sure a lot of people got into the hobby through these printers, and they may choose to modify them, which requires time and money. Everyone has their own situation and circumstances, and to make and to make a blanket statement like yours misses the point. Also the money spent on this upgrade isn't without return, this is a very nice product.
Nice video! I have a problem. I tried to assemble the kit but the X-axis limit switch. The new sprite car doesn't touch it 🤔🤔
Yea, while I didn't have that issue, a lot of people didm thankfully they found a fix. There's a simple 3d printable fix that can flip the endstop.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5458320
This should fix the issue for you. Let me know if it doesn't!
Just installed this today. Ran into an issue with calibrating the Z-offset. It goes to the top-right corner and doesn't lower to the bed. Any ideas?
Hey Rockey, what firmware did you install with this ?
@@PrintsLeo3D I have Alex's firmware. But, it's been over a year since I have done any sort of update to it. Could that be the issue?
There shouldn't be a problem with onboard firmware not being updated after sitting for a period of time. Was this firmware ever working for you, is this a problem that is just starting now?
Hey Leo! hope all is well. anychance you have a video on how to then go up to 300 for printing temps?
Hey Matt, I released some Marlin based firmwares for the Aquolas along with this video. They're available on my website and there should be some links for them in the description. That being said they are older firmwares (compiled around the date of this video). So if you are looking to get Marlin based firmwares that are up to 300c you may be able to find some more updated ones out there.
If you have firmware and you're just looking for the process take a look at my original Aquila bl touch setup video. I go over now to format the SD card and then install the new firmware.
Thanks Leo!@@PrintsLeo3D
Hello Leo. I am about to install the creality sprite pro dd kit on my Aquila x2 n32 chip. I do not have the Bl / cl touch. When I navigate through the links for firmware I am unsure what one I need to download and use? Can you point me in the right direction please? They all only talk about Bl or manual mesh. Is this still the firmware for the sprite mod? It’s misleading and I don’t want to mess up.
Hey great questions as you want to make sure you have the correct firmware else you'll be in a world of hurt lol if you are not using a bed probe you'll want to use the firmware labelled 'Manual Mesh' this firmware is the same as a 'no probe' style firmware except it also gives you the option to create a mesh manually without the use of a probe. So that's what you'll want to pick! One thing to note, the way I compiled the firmware I forgot to remove a feature called Z safe home, which homes the nozzle at the center of the bed (instead of the front left cornerer). So my manual mesh firmware is still going to home the nozzle at the center of the bed, it does nothing different so don't worry. Let me know if you need any more info on this.
@@PrintsLeo3D awesome thank you! Is there anything that i need to be print that you can think of before I do the install that will prevent me from being able to finish the job? This being my only printer, I don’t want to get it all done and realize there was a part I had to print to make this all work as intended.
I think I answered my own question with finding a dog comment where you talked about the print needed to flip the X axis mechanical endstop switch. Going to print that now.
Tiphys yes! Another excellent question ad I'm sorry for myage reply but you are correct the X axis print is used more often than not now after the job is finished. Other than that you should be good to go! Let me know how it works out for you..
@@PrintsLeo3D I sure will 🤜🏻🤛🏻 thanks Leo
Thankyou so much for this! I did it but don't have a cr or bl touch. Do I need one or what can I do?
Glad this was helpful for you! You do not need a cr/bl touch to use this. You could use this just as well (well that's up for debate lol) using it without a probe and keeping the z limit switch as your z axis limit endstop. If you are looking for firmware that leans that route (and you have an Aquila) you can find it on my website (printsleo3d.com) under the section Firmware > Marlin > Aquila Sprite Extruder The option you would be looking for is any firmware that starts with MM which stands for manual mesh. The manual mesh firmware let's you use your printer as you normally would without a probe, but it gives you the option to create a mesh manually, which is what a cr/bl touch does automatically. So by using that Manual Mesh firmware you have the ability to get the same or similar benefits as you would with a probe, without owning one!
@@PrintsLeo3D I have a cr touch on the way so might just wait till then lol have a hard time understanding all the lingo lol as I literally bought a voxelab and used it till it clogged and then got the sprite followed your video and got it in but now im a little lost. do you have a video explaining how to do the firmware upgrade and then after how I would set it all up with the cr touch?
Sorry about all the jargon, I usually do my best to speak/type in a way that newcomers can grasp but sometimes when I rush I use all the shorthand lol I have an Aquila BL Touch video that goes over the physical install as well as the firmware upgrade. It's a long video, the first half is physical install and the second half is firmware upgrade. By physical install I mean running the bl touch cable to the mainboard in the printer, installing a new hot end shroud that can hold a bl touch and then routing the wires from the mainboard to the BL Touch. The physical part of the video will not apply to you because the Sprite has that set up differently.
*Also I should mention whenever I say BL Touch the same info applies for a CR Touch
When installing the Sprite did you plug in the 5 pin connector to the 'bl touch' port of the mainboard? If you did that would be the mainboard side of things. All that's left is screwing the bl touch into the section of the shroud designated to hold it(see in my video). Then using the bl touch wire that (hopefully) came with your Sprite you would just connect one side of the cable to the bl touch and the other side to the back of thr Sprite breakout board.
The firmware side of things isn't too rough but it's the part that can be fraught with human error. I have firmware on my website that applies to the BL touch version of the sprite too. You would download that file, then copy the file to an empty SD card (preferably one you just formatted FAT32/4096 bytes by right clicking the card and selecting format with those options). On the Sd card create a folder named 'firmware' and put the firmware file within it. Power down the printer, insert the SD card, then power the printer back on. The firmware flash will commence without you doing anything and be finished within 30 seconds. The screen to the Aquila has firmware also that will need to be flashed. The process is similar to the mainboard but differs in some areas. I would suggest watching the latter half of my bl touch video on the correct way to go about both of these procedures! Let me know when you get it if you need any help.
ruclips.net/video/ARAhqgkfBMo/видео.html
hello, after installing and flashing (G32), I encountered a strange problem. The head starts to heat up immediately after switching on. No settings affect the process. Any ideas? would be very grateful
The first thing I would think to do is try flashing s new firmware and see if the issue persists after changing. If this problem is still there I would first make sure all the connectors kn the breakout board are secure. After that look at the mainboardz specifically the connections for the heater cartridge. Make sure they are seperated and fully inserted. Was this problem happening after install or only after firmware install?
@@PrintsLeo3D The problem arose after installation, changing the firmware does not give any results. True, at first I forgot to connect the thermocouple connector. After connecting the connector, it just started to get warm every time it was turned on (((
Interesting issue. The heating cartridge is just a big resistor, and it works when the mainboard allows power to be sent to it. If it's powering on immediately it makes me think this is a mainboard issue, but is the hot end actual getting heat? I had to re-sort the heating cartridge wires within the terminal block during my install, maybe that can be an option for you, but I don't really see how that would affect this. When you turn the printer on, the temp immediately heats up, but is the heating block actually getting heat or is the thermistor malfunctioning? If this was my printer I would want to see if there is heat going into the hot end. This can be dangerous so if you did this you need to take special care to not burn yourself! Also don't touch any of the wires going into the block (thermistor or cartridge) while the printer is powered on. If you have some sort of thermal temp gauge you can use to detect Temperature that is the safest way. Outside of that I would hold my hand near the nozzle/heat block and see if I can feel heat radiating from it. Again, take extreme caution and only do this if you feel completely confident you will not burn yourself. If you have stability or other dexterity issues than ask someone to assist you or choose to not apply this test at all. Again try this test at your own risk and please if you do attempt this take every available precaution to not burn/injure yourself. The main goal would be to find out if the nozzle is actually getting heat.
@@PrintsLeo3D the nozzle heats up, and very quickly. I think it's a head defect. thanks for the consultation
My guess is either there is some sort of defect in the wiring from the Sprite, or somehow the MOSFET on your mainboard that controls the heating cartridge has went, and it's applying the full 24v as soon as the printer powers on.
Great presentation and very informative. Thank you very much Leo. Just one question, the fans are noisy?
Thanks for the compliment! The fans are actually really quiet. I was supposed to mention that during the video but I forgot it! When I first powered it on I thought it was broken because I didn't hear anything but it was just a quieter set of fans than the stock fans.
Hola, gracias por el video. Yo tengo problemas con el Sprite. Imprime unas veces y otras no. Que firmware tienes instalado? Saludos y gracias
¡Hola, Juan, gracias por mirar! Tengo firmware que compilé para My Aquilas que están equipados con el Sprite. Si va a mi sitio web (www.printsleo3d.com), luego a la sección de firmware, puede encontrar firmware para Sprite. Si desea usarlo, primero haga que sea adecuado para su impresora. ¡Espero que ayude!
@@PrintsLeo3D Perdona pero apenas se de esto. No encuentro los archivos de la pantalla (DWIN_SET). Aparte he cargado el tuyo y no me carga nada en la impresora. No tengo bltouch y he intentado con dos MM, el de 3 y el de 10. No se cual debo de utilizar. Creo que lo estoy haciendo mal. Por favor si puedes ayudame, gracias. Tengo la Aquila con chip G32
Gracias por responder en español. Si te hace falta te traduzco mañana con Google translator (me lo acaban de decir), perdona por no hacerlo.
Juan, actualmente estoy usando el traductor de Google para entender y responder a tus comentarios. Primero debería hacer una copia de seguridad y preguntar, ¿qué impresora estás usando?
@@PrintsLeo3DVoxelab Aquila
I have a question... Can I use an aquila display on an ender 3 max? I am having issues after upgrading to the sprite pro
Unfortunately not without a free fir.ware side changes. The Ender 3 Max and the Aquila use two different display types and they aren't plug and play replacements of each other.
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you! So if I change the firmware, like jyers or Alex's I can use it?
I think Jyers/mrisoc firmware would be the best go to right now, as they are tuned for the Enders. If you want I can try and compile some firmware for you that will suit your needs?
@@PrintsLeo3D Omg that will be awesome! Thank you so much!
Just email me printsleo3d@gmail.com or join my Discord (link in description) this way we can go back and forth with exactly what you printer has setup and how to compile it.
New subscriber... Great video... I literally just ordered my Sprite extruder before I found this vid for my heavily modified Aquila (klipper/dual z/btt e3miniv3) (if I can even call it that anymore... thesisus's ship i guess)... I'll definitely give your profiles a go and I'm beyond impressed with your attention to detail and content.
Thanks for watching, for subscribing, and for letting me know these videos work! My Aquila is still stock board but also running Klipper. So while the base parameters of my profiles should be pretty good you'll probably want to tweak the speed settings. I'm currently running 130mm/s with the sprite (it has a nice max volumetric flow rate) but I kept the speeds conservative for the profiles. Thanks again and happy printing !
I have an Aquila s2 with the sprite pro what download should I use I also got the n32 mine came with the h32
If you go to my website I have Sprite firmware for the N32 chipped Aquila. If you aren't using a probe you'll choose the Manual Mesh option (which gives you the ability to still create and use a mesh without a probe). If you are using a probe then you can use any of the BL options I have listed. Of course whichever you choose make sure the chip is correct.
Congrats on getting your Creality Sprite Pro to work on your Voxlabs printer. Question: is the Voxlab a clone of a Creality Machine? Specifically, is the board of your machine a clone of a Creality board? I'm asking because I'm going to put a Sprite Pro on a BIQU Hurakan. Trying to figure out what's going to happen before it happens. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for watching! Yes to your first question, the Voxelab is a clone of the Ender 3 V2. The boards are 'similar' but different. Specifically (and I could be misremembering this) the ground + and - sides of the heater terminals are reversed, which is why I had to reverse them during installation. You should be able to install this on any board as long as you know what connectors you are plugging everything into. I also have a Sprite Pro running on a BTT SKR miniE3v2 board, but again just double check all the connections (+) and (-) are correct when you connect them. Like you saw in my video though for the heating cartridge it shouldn't matter, but if those polarities are wrong you'll just get a shutdown and need to reverse them. Good luck, let me know how it goes.
@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you very much for getting back to me. I'm putting my Sprite Pro on a BIQU Hurakan (with Klipper).
The thing I'm concerned about, or wary of is the E-motor rotation. The motors in my Hurakan aren't Creality brand. So the direction of the extruder might become an issue.
The other thing is e-steps / or "rotational distance" as it's now called in Klipper. I've watched a video about how to figure that out and change in in Mainsail / Fluuid. But knowing and doing, those are different experiences.
Anyways, thank you for the video. There aren't enough videos about putting a Sprint Pro on Printer X / aka Not A Creality Machine; your's is the first one I found this morning.
Mark
Because you're using Klipper you're in luck because a lot of this stuff will be easier (although won't seem that way at first). For the direction of the motor it's not going to matter. You can change the direction of the extruder motor within the printer configuration file (it's a text document Klipper used to control your printer). Simply putting -or omitting- an exclamation point (!) before the direction of the motor will reverse the direction. Simple fix.
As for rotation distance it's easy. The Sprite has its own extruder motor and the recommend esteps are 424.5(I believe, this is from memory). Based on the extruder specs, to change that to rotation distance you would take 3200 and divide it by the esteps(424.5), which brings your rot distance to 7.538. now that's based on the stock numbers and I always recommend to calibrate it yourself, but my numbers were almost identical, somewhere in the 7.0s so it's a great place to start.
@@PrintsLeo3D Sorry to bug you, but I ran into a few snags. The good news is I compensate those who help me. If you don't mind, here's what I'm stuck on. 1. The Fan+ and the Fan- wires: my printer's Manta m4p board doesn't have another 24v-gnd socket to put them in, but it does have 4 two-pin connects. Each has 24v on one side, and (I'm assuming) a ground pin on the other. I changed the ferrules on the non-control wires to one two-pin connector, with the + on the left and the - on the right. If I plug it into a two-pin connector like I described, is that going to work? I'm asking because this is the third board for my Hurakan. I was trying to install BIQU's top end extruder, and ended up destroying the board, three stepper drivers and a 7" monitor. 2. What is the K-Fan? And where does it get power from? I have another two pin connector just like the one described above. The manual describes the K-Fan as the Control Fan. What is it controlling, or, what is controlling it?
Is this mod suitable for Aquila Pro model?
Victor I don't think it is. I don't own an Aquila Pro and I'm not very familiar with it's components, but I believe this is the Aquila that uses a mainboard as well as a smaller breakout board. Because of that feature, as well as the onboard probe, that may not play nice with the sprites break out board (again I can't confirm because I don't own one) I would think this is not an easily compatible mod like it is for other Aquila models.
Hallo, ich habe es genau so gemacht, nur ist der BLTouch am Mainboard angeschlossen und nicht am Extruder. Ich bekomme das Bedleveling aber nicht mehr hin. Woran kann es liegen?
Ich verwende Google Translate, um Ihre Frage zu verstehen und zu beantworten. Ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob ich Ihre Frage verstehe. Hat der BL Touch jemals für Sie funktioniert?
Yes, the BL Touch also works. Only the extruder no longer goes deep enough to the bed for printing.
Ok, so it sounds like your nozzle is too far from the bed while printing. That is controlled by the Z-offset which can be found under the PREPARE menu. When inside the Z-offset menu you can lower the nozzle closer to the bed, and then save that setting after you're satisified. I would be happy to explain more if you need.
Thank you for the time being. I'll try it. If it doesn't work, I'll get back to you.
Groß! Lassen Sie mich wissen, wie es funktioniert.
I have a spare Sprite extruder (I upgraded my S1 to the 300° sprite "pro" ) I want to mount on my Aquila.
Does anyone know where to get the "kit" parts without then the extruder/hotend itself?
Specifically the cables and the extruder support bracket (the gantry) that rides on the T slot....
I checked everywhere I could think of and cant find these parts sold separately from the kit.
I can't seem to find much myself. I found this 3d printable bracket, but it's probably only a start because the dimensions are possibly off. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5423518
I sent a message to Creality asking about these products but they are 'out of office' currently, so I will let you know when they contact me.
@@PrintsLeo3D Wow, thanks Leo!
I found that bracket as well but got "scared off" by the "Dimensions may not be perfect" ...
I didnt really want to disassemble my S1 to compare the dimensions, but I think I will print it and see how it comes out. Keep me posted if you get any leads on the factory bracket. Your effort is greatly appreciated!
Yea the old "dimensions have been eyeball'ed" is never a great start lol I will let you know when they contact me. In the meantime I'll be on the lookout.
@@PrintsLeo3D I greatly appreciate that :-)
They ended up responding to me with the most generic "check our website" email of all time. So right now I don't know of any avenue to find one, I'm sorry.
THE EMAIL:
Dear Customer,
Thank you for contacting us and sorry for the late reply.
According to the content of your email,
Here are our suggestions for your problem
1. store.creality.com/
or
www.creality3dofficial.com/
Or
www.aliexpress.com/store/4297005?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000061.1.19063a81jfERuO
2. I suggest you look at the above websites or go to Amazon
i have an aquila x2 will this hotend fit mine or do i have to get a diff board i have a h32 ?
Hey Jeremy! For the Aquila and the Aquila X2 they are for intents and purposes the same printer. So this will absolutely fit. The problem you'll run into, as you suspected, is the chip that's in the main board. I can't compile firmware for the H32, so you would be limited to the small amount of community released firmware (Alex's firmware if you're familiar), or firmware from Voxelab's official page. If you're confused about those differences, what they mean, and the options available to you, let me know and I can explain in more detail!
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you for the info what recommended board would u say get so i could get the proper firmware
I'm sorry I never replied to this, RUclips flagged this comment for some reason (??) and I never saw it. You could go with a Voxelab board with a different chip (G32, N32). One of the Creality offerings like the 4.2.7 silent board, or something from BigTreeTech like an SKR mini E3V3
YOU ARE AWESOME MAN. EVERYTIME I HAVE AN EMERGENCY/ PROBLEM THERES ONLY 1 VIDEO THAT HAS THE ANSWER . YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i couldnt figure out / find solution why screen kept restarting
Glad to be of service! Thanks for watching and for letting me know these are helping!! Be good and happy printing!
What do you think about Smart Filament Sensor? Will you be doing a video on this upgrade soon?
I really don't use filament runout sensors nearly as much as I should, and I like the added benefit the Smart sensor offers - not just being a simple filament runout. If that's something you're interested in I can certainly order one and start on a video! I think it's a worthwhile addition and something that could help people.
@@PrintsLeo3D That's great! I look forward to your next videos. I frequently run into extruder grinding/eating into filament and this sensor maybe a lifesaver for long haul prints. I wonder if you'll have to reconcile smart sensor firmware with Alex's BLT firmware. For the grinding issues, I'm testing out a variety of fixes. My latest suspicion is that I might have old, moisture-damaged PLA.
I followed your guides on BMG dual-gear extruder and BLT installation and they worked beautifully. Your Aquila contents are just unrivaled!
I just ordered 2 Z axis upgrade kits from your last videos, just in case I need to replace stock Z axis as well. I look forward to your video with Z axis with timing belt. I wonder if it's gonna be better than the dual motor kit I ordered. Or better yet, can we merge them together to make dual Z axis motor with timing belt? 😝
Lol timing belt and two stepper motors that'd be a trip! I am finding up the timing belt version of the dual Z axis as we speak should probably be out next week sometime. In the end they both, timing belt and dual stepper, turned out well for me. For the firmware I think they'll need to. E a few adjustments but I'm not too sure, need to look under the hood again at Alex's firmware. I think filament runout sensor might not be active default but I always turn it on to have access to multi color printing.
this sprite upgrade has been the most frustrating thing i've done with 3d printing. still cant get the new 4.2.7 board to load with the sprite plugged in.
Sorry to hear that. This extruder has been really great for me. Where you able to finally get this working ?
@PrintsLeo3D not yet. Tried to compile my own code, but the z axis sits 5 inches too high. Focused on fixing my blown engine now over plating with pribters
Compiling the complete Marlin firmware from scratch can definitely be daunting. Good luck with the engine and hopefully you get that printer up and running soon too.
Thanks once again for the great content Leo. Worthy upgrade from the S2 or not worth it unless we are having issues.
Paul that's a really great question! I'm not a fan of the hot end on the S2. On the S2 the nozzle options are limited and the overall setup leaves a lot to be desired. This upgrade is pricey but if it was my printer I would upgrade. This is in itself is a great hot end, and the fact that it makes long term use easier (over the stock S2 hotend) I would say it's safe to devote money to upgrading.
Edit: that being said if you aren't having issues you can save some money and wait. Just keep in mind at some point you'll need to replace the nozzle on the S2 and it's a poor setup.
I'm considering the Sprite for this very reason. I'm about to begin printing more abrasive filaments and the cost of Voxelabs proprietary nozzles and shipping are not much less than the cost of this entire extruder.
Yea that stock S2 setup was a real let down. Having now printed with the Sprite for over 2 months I can say it's lived up to expectations. Haven't had any issues with it so far, and now's it's printing with Klipper and doing well even with those high printing speeds.
Yeah, i just installed the sprite pro and my aquila, and it won't work. Is it possible that it's not compatible with the H32 board??
Hey Kurt! Did you do any firmware changes? If you just did an install onto your H32 printer without needing with firmware there shouldn't be any problems with it working. Is the hot end itself responding, for instance will it auto home? Or is it not extruding ?
I turn power on and I get a blank backlit screen. I have updated the firmware. Still blank. Checked, double checked and triple checked all cables. When updating screen firmware, it goes Blue then Orange. But then on restart, its just blank.
I did install CR touch at the same time. I am thinking that this might be my issue
Which firmware did you install? I've heard mixed things about Alex's H32 firmware, don't have an H32 to try myself. I know that chip is really stubborn.
Edit: also I just want to make sure you plugged the ribbon cable for the screen back into the mainboard
I tried Alex's firmware, then I thought maybe it could be a firmware issue, so I tried voxelab's official firmware with no success... I've ordered a BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2.0 MainBoard and a dual Z axis screw rod upgrade to eliminate sag. I'll try unplugging the CR touch and reflashing original firmware when I get home tonight, but I'm not very optimistic, I think my H32 board is toast.
Also I see you've kept the dual Z belt instead of the dual motor!
Actually the dual motor is on my S2 and this base Aquila got the belt! I'm going to have a dual Z axis timing belt install coming out next !
So do you recommend adding dual Z when using the sprite pro on the Aquila x2? Or is the stock single Z able to handle the weight?
The stock single can handle this weight no problem. The Sprite is actually very very light in general so I wouldn't worry about this
@@PrintsLeo3D thank you kind sir. Enjoy the weekend my friend
Anytime!
Is that not a crtouch? I simply cannot get my bltouch to work with the daughter board.
Do I need to use a crtouch to get this to work?
This is the CR touch I hooked up to the Aquila,, but it should work just the same for the bl touch. Only difference is the mounting, as they have different mounting dimensions. If you want I will double check and plug my BL touch in tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure I did this when I filmed to check , and I know memebers of the Discord are using this with bl touches. Was it working prior to any firmware changes ?
Not at all. Is this a function issue, or it is the cable giving you a hard time? because the cable is unique to the Sprite in general.
My Ender 3 pro came with hot glue all over the motherboard. It was really difficult to remove connections and after all that, we can’t get the hit end to heat up. 😢
Liam, they love securing everything with glue, and it can be a really trouble to take it all off. What sort of error (if any) are you receiving ? Are the temperatures at 0c? Are they just not heating up at all ?
I found out yesterday that the hot end wire wasn’t actually connected to the daughter board.😂 it worked great after that. It was actually really frustrating to get the old connections removed. I’m thinking about buying a silent motherboard. Which one is best for Ender 3 pro?
If you wanted to stay with something from Creality the 4.2.7 silent mainboard is a nice and quiet option. If you are looking aftermarket the BigTreeTech SKR Mini series is another choice. The SKR mini E3V2 or SKR mini E3V3 are both mainboards I've used on some of my machines. Though to be honest if you're looking for just basic functionality, with a silent upgrade, then the Creality 4.2.7 board may be the easiest option.
I bought a direct drive voxelab S3, unhappy with it compared to the more primitive C2 I owned. The new voxelab doesn't have the classic customizable features the original C2 had... You can't adjust flow rate, baby step x or y during the print.. You can't even set home offsets. Its very frustrating when something goes wrong... you can easily damage your printer or print... You need these advanced parameters especially for a model that reaches higher temperatures for things like nylon printing and PC
The Aquila S2, in my opinion, was a bit of a misstep for Voxelab. I liked the direction they were heading with it, but the execution was a little lackluster. The proprietary print head and nozzle made a budget friendly easily-modifiable printer into any but that. I also did not like the C2 because often for the same price you could find an Aquila X2 which was easier to work with. I am glad you had success with the C2 though and hopefully are still finding your way with the S2.
Thanks for the video! do you mind If I put this on a livestream while I do it? id credit you of course
Absolutely, thanks for asking! Glad this was helpful for you and I appreciate you getting it out there!
@@PrintsLeo3D Awesome ya will probably take me forever but it's so nice to have something to follow! taught myself all this stuff just to make my own drones but I'm a hairdresser so it's a whole new world.
Oh wow that's awesome! Drones seem so cool to me but it's not something I ever explored. I'm sure 3d printing is a great compliment to working with drones.
@@PrintsLeo3D Yes I taught myself autocad aand 3d printing on youtube to be able to design my first drone. It is so much fun and with your knowledge how could you have more fun than bloody flying drones you've designed! here's a great video to learn the basics ruclips.net/video/Rdb347xARfA/видео.html
After doing this mod on my S2 it no longer begins a print after preheating. It will reach target temps and then just hover around around them, but never beginning. If I go to "tune" and lower the target temp for the extruder a few degrees it then immediately begins printing.
Have you made any firmware adjustments? Or did you just do a physical install?
Yes I did, I installed the firmware from your site.
I used BL-3x3-N32 (I do indeed have an authentic bltouch installed and working)
I left a response to this earlier I don't know why not seeing it, so sorry if this is a double post. I would try a different version of my firmware, 4x4 or 5x5, to see if the problem is related to this firmware.
Roger that, will do. I'm going to re-flash the 3x3 and if that doesn't work I'll try the others. Thanks for the help!
That small jumper from cr touch in the kit did not work still needed to use the long cable.
I wonder if the cable was set up incorrectly. How has this been working for you ?
My issue I’m having is my bl touch is sitting just a little lower then my nozzle. When I’m trying to get my X offset the bl touch is touching the plate first
Quentin, that can be a rough issue. If the BL Touch is sitting too high you can shim it downwards, but when it's too low there's not many options-especially with the stock probe. Is this a branded BL touch or a clone? It really shouldn't matter as in my experience they are roughly the same exact size. I did find this remixed model that can attach the probe father back on the Sprite It's possible to make some minor edits to this to make the bl touch sit farther from the build plate. If you can't make edits like that on this model let me know, and I can see what I can do for you!
@@PrintsLeo3D it’s the branded bl touch that came with the sprite drive. I have no idea how to edit anything to be honest. I’m still learning printing in general. I’d appreciate the help!
Ok, is it possible to send me a pic of the front of the printer, showing how close the probe tip and the nozzle tip are in relation to one another. You can send me it through email (printsleo3d@gmail.com) or through Discord (link in description).
@@PrintsLeo3D sent to email. And from what I’m seeing online they were coming with the cr touch not the no touch. Wondering if that makes a difference
I got it! Shouldn't make a difference, there's a few members of the Discord using the Sprite with a BL touch, but we'll get it sorted.
Very impressive. Thanks!
Thank you so much! Always appreciate you dropping me a comment! This sprite has been a really nice addition, so I am glad more people are seeing this. Thanks!
Watching this, why not use a needle and just swap the small connectors ? They all should be very similar if not identical for the BL touch? Same for the fans, I would just swap the factory plug for whatever came on my fan.
For the fans you could do that. When you get a new fan just release the plug it came with, release the plug from the older fans and make the swap. For the BL touch you can't because you're only going to have one connector that is correct. I believe the small connector that goes into the BL touch is a molex pico blade(not jst), and the connector going into the Sprite is also the Molex pico blade. So one side is going to be wrong. I have since received a few more of these Sprites, and each one has come with the BL Touch cable already, so more likely than not you're not going to have to order one yourself.
@@PrintsLeo3D yeah I seem to have misplaced the small baggy and the cable inside of it 🤦🏻♂️ while I don’t use bl touch I would have liked to one day…
Hey don't feel bad they never even sent me one the first time lol if you ever want to get a bl touch the cable is inexpensive, you can get it from DigiKey for like $11 or something like that! Good luck
Found it! It was in my draw I printed for my printer under my cutters. So I looked at least 3 times never moving the cutters but I needed to use my cutters and found it! Sweet! I’ll be using your profile soon enough to up my printer temp to 300C for nylon (RC parts) do you know if it’s toxic? If I’m able to print it in a room I use often.
If you're going to be printing nylon you'll definitely want to take some hefty safety precautions. Nylon can emit toxins whole printing, so using an enclosure and properly filtration is key. Nylon can be a tricky beast to print too, make sure you dry that filament well before using, and as always be safe!
hello, please tell me linear advance works on your firmware?
I have compiled a version of Firmware with linear advance, but in the Aquila boards it requires some soldering and wire jumping to make it work. What type of mainboard do you have?
@@PrintsLeo3D voxelab aquila my version g. marlin made driver support 2208
@@PrintsLeo3D ruclips.net/video/HSClmZ8IYjg/видео.html
@@PrintsLeo3D I want to thank you for your hard work and detailed videos. I wish you progress in your business
Thank you for the kind words I appreciate that. I'm trying to help as best to can do when these videos or my website does that I am happy. If you're further interested in that linear advance firmware let me know!
Hi Leo! Could I do this on my Aquila S2?
Yes you can! The entire setup is exactly the same for the S2 as it is for the Aquila, with the one difference being you are taking a direct extruder off already. To be honest it's a pricey upgrade but it's so worth it for the S2 because the hot end on that is really not the best for long term use.
I agree. I ordered from your link! Could you add a link to a bed leveler?
what did you set the x and y offsets to?
X = -31 , Y = -40.4
I have some profiles and firmware at my website that has these offsets setup already if you're interested. PrintsLeo3d.com
@@PrintsLeo3D I have it installed on Ender 3 Pro and cant find info on it, so far you were the best help.
Awesome! I am actually installing another of these on my Ender 5 this week! I've really been liking the prints it has been putting out. If you need any other help let me know, as I have Ender 3 Pros and V2s so I am familiar with them. Thanks for the question and the compliment!
@@PrintsLeo3D I am talking about the offsets not for the probe but where the noozle thinks where 0,0 is and all that.
Oh I'm so sorry, are you talking about the offsets within the slicer ?
The link for "Digikey BL Touch cable (designed for Sprite)" is 404.
Sorry about that try this link!
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0151340501/6198151
I'll update the description
Thank you!!!
You're welcome! If this doesn't work just search this part number on digikey
WM15261-ND
great video, thx
You're welcome! Thanks for leaving a comment!
@26:55 was so painful to watch! For a guy that has done this 100 times, I would think you'd have it dialed? I absolutely don't mean any disrespect as your videos have been my go-to ever since I got my X2 over a year ago. However, if you simply LOOSEN the nuts on the top two wheels slightly, the carriage drops right on. You do not need to completely remove any of the wheels/nuts and especially not the eccentric nut.
Well in my defense I haven't done this particular mod 100s of times lol I know a lot of people who have been able to simply loosen all the wheels and remove the carriage, but for me that wasn't my experience. While I figured I was an outlier I try and consider the larger audience watching me, and I don't mind doing a little extra work to try and help those people. I understand though as there's been plenty of tutorials that I've watched where I've seen the person doing something k wouldn't have lol I appreciate the feedback though every bit information I can get helps! Thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D I didn’t mean any disrespect, man. I apologize for sounding like a dick! I appreciate your videos and everything you do regarding the Aquila. It is definitely an under-appreciated printer and at its price point, I consider it one of the best values out there in their stock form and work absolutely great as such. But, with any Ender 3 upgrades being compatible you can turn an X2 into a hot plastic slinging monster, very inexpensively. I have three of them now and they have their small issues just like any other printer but they are easy to fix and just keep printing, flawlessly! As long as you know what you’re doing to maintain it and that’s where your videos got me to where I am now. 👌🏼
No not at all! I didn't mean sound defensive so I apologize lol Yea that's why I love these Aquilas they really do fly under that radar in terms of perform. Especially with all the buzz about BambuLabs and the faster coreXY machines it's nice to be able to find a printer that is still very capable for a fraction of the cost. I appreciate the support and the comments! Means a lot to me , thank you.
I started losing focus until you said "jostle" lol...Jostle
I don't remember saying that, but it's certainly something I would say lol glad I got your attention and I appreciate you leaving me a comment, thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D at 16:45 ty for all of the in depth content, you've singlehandedly saved wasted plastic and you're probably responsible for half of voxelab's sales
Lol thank you I appreciate that very much!!