I just came to the realization a few minutes ago that I think this is what's causing the clunking in my front end when hitting bumps. Everything else is firm, but I saw another video about checking play in the sway bar, so I went out and checked that, and sure enough, there was a bit of play in it that sounded exactly like what I was hearing. Nice to see one of your videos showing how to do the job :)
I also had the same clunking for a long time, replaced the swaybar endlinks and the clucking went away. Cheap and easy fix, pair of OEM endlinks costs under $40 shipped. Check out my civic or accord swaybar endlink videos, its exactly the same for the odyssey, rather most cars.
That was my first thought, but I replaced those already when I bought the van about two years ago (with Moog). It was the first thing I checked anyway, but I can't detect any movement in the links no matter how hard I try to move them by hand.
Fair enough :) well I've poke and prodded and pulled at everything under there, and the sway bar is the only thing I can make move at all, so I'm going to give it a try. It's cheap anyway :)
Yay somebody with brains thank you sir for some reason my bushings are just completely gone 😂 lots of clunking and feels like your riding in a off-road buggy!! Very unstable at highway speeds
This helped me a lot, especially your comment responses. I have a clunking going over bumps in my 02 MDX and I replaced the stabilizer links and it did not fix the clunking noise. I will try the bushings next. I am pretty sure that it will take care of it since the sound is exactly like the sound heard in your video when you remove the bushing and the bar hits the frame. Also, I had my son rock the MDX to make the clunking sound while I felt the suspension components. I could feel the clunking vibration in the lower stabilizer connection, so I think it must be the bar hitting the frame and transmitting the vibration to the lower end of the link.
My Honda Accord 210 makes rattling or thumping noise when goes through bumps. The car steering is very stable at any speed and there seems to be no problem with struts or ball-joint. Do you think it could be sway bar bushing? Are these sway bars both back and front? Because occasionally I seem to hear similar noise in the rear of the car too. BTW! Excellent video ... very much to the point.
I like it a lot, it is a little stiffer than i'm used too but it is really quick and great on gas believe it or not. My wife has the RL and it rides so smooth!
The more I loosen my bolts the tighter they get. I have both sides jacked up now and both wheels off (I've learned you have to have the anti roll bar level). Crazy. Simple job I thought.
One of the bolts for my front sway bar bushing snapped! Can I drill it out from underneath by just removing the wishbone or does it need whole subframe removing?
@MrRangerZr1 I replaced the bushings but messed up and used antiseize instead of silicon paste (trying to do too many things at once). Now I'm wondering if I should take them off to replace the antiseize with paste or leave it alone.....?
@MrRangerZr1 I removed the bushings, cleaned the rubber with simple green, dried them, and reinstalled with silicon paste. Then a month later the garage says I've got the infamous VCM oil burning issue and need a new engine. Piston rings were already changed at 40k under warranty but I guess it has gone bad again
Are these the sway bar bushings at the front or at the rear? I was told by a service shop that the rattle from the back of my 08 Pilot was due to bad sway bar links. But they look ok to me, at least visually. So, want to check on the bushings too and diagnose the exact cause myself. In another video, accessing and replacing the bushings looked really hard, but this one seems very clear and doable. So, want to confirm the location. Thanks.
I'm doing the sway bar links and bushings tomorrow. I read that the car should be on the ground when torquing the links. Does the suspension also need to be under load before tightening the bushing brackets?
I tried this on my 2005 accord cl7 (same as Tsx). But on those you cannot reach the rear bolt, because it's hidden under the chassis. The only way I found, is to partially remove/lower the subframe, which is a real hassle if you don't have access to a car lift. I did replace both front tie rod end links, and no rattling sounds anymore.
thats my thinking ...i need to replace my front ARB Bushes ...theres no way you can get in there to the rear bolts ...you must have to drop the front subframe !!! ...did you ever sort yours on th 7gen...annoying thing ..honda may have realised this ...becuase on the 8 gen ,this video is possible ...with an angled ratchet .....but you couldnt even get a socket on the rear bolt
You can. No need to drop the sub frame. I am planning to make video on my 2015 accord v6. On discussions forum they say same but today i used the long extension and lose the back bolt. I will post video in a week or so
My Honda accord was making like an old door sound with no oil type, I changed the sway bars linked and it worked for a while, then I started to hear it again and just changed the bushings but the noise is still there, also i hear the sound while going on speed bumps and also it sounds more when there’s 2 ppl in thr front, you can also hear it as soon as you getnout the car, is like a sound an old door makes whenever you open it, it also sounds whenever you put weight i was pushing the hood down to test if it would sound and it did, is weird whenever it rains and I drive through puddles snd water goes inside under the car, thr sound stops for like 2 days then it comes back, what can this be?
The old bushing has a gap towards the top. You can clearly see it needs to be replace. That gap will cause the sway bar to move around and that is where you get the clunking sound when going over bumps at low speed.
Hello I just installed my new rear shocks but now I'm hearing weird noise from the shock whenever I put weight on the car I can hear a very light clunk. When driving I can hear it when I'm at a stop then accelerate or on very bad roads. It sounds as if the bump stop isnt put on properly but idk i double check everything .Car drives smooth on the highways. Could this be an end link? Bad sway bar bushings? I have aftermarket struts but used all the oem hardware like dust boot, bump stop, bushings etc... I checked all but the noise is mainly coming from the new shocks which is very weird.
MrRangerZr1 12' civic exl. I can only hear sound on from the rear. Also I can hear it when I shake the car from the rear and I can feel something hitting the rear shocks
Thanks for the video! I used your Amazon links to order the bushings and flexible ratchet. Super easy with that ratchet! However, I'm still getting the clunk sound. I replaced the bushings without undoing the top sway bar link. Was that a mistake? Does it all need to be done at once? If it doesn't matter, then is my next step to replace the tie rods?
My 97 honda civic is making a creak noise when stopped when i tilt play the steering wheel and in low speed on a stop and i changed shocks sway bar links upper and lower balljoints to tie rods and i get the annoying crrreeeeakkkk crrreeaaaaak noise still. What makes that noise?
@@MrRangerZr1 i changed the shocks and i believe its my lower ball joint i removed my wheel and has a high squeak coming by the knuckle and weight is on the lower ball joint. But doesn't look damaged tho probably worn from the inside the joint.
Do you think the end links are bad also or just do the sway bar bushings, I have the clunking and have replaced the motor mounts all (3) and transmission mount. I just bought the Sway bar bushings from Acura.
I have changed everything but the bushings in my car. It gets really loud when it’s hot outside. Also if I have a passenger in the front. So I think I will order and change this also. It’s like a thump and it’s sounds terrible.
@@MrRangerZr1 is the 12 mm deep socket needed. I tried the gearwrench tilt wrench and it’s too thick and hits the chassis. Do you need the deep well to clear the chassis or will a regular 12mm socket work?
IMHO I think you need the regular socket and deep well. The passenger side on the lx 2010 is to congested for the deep well. Even better maybe a twisty socket for that side.
MrRangerZr1 thank you for amazing videos! Quick question: why no silicone for OEM bushings? Would it hurt to add some silicone on the inside? Thank you again!
You use dioelectric grease on these rubber items too, What about a silicone spray for rubber? I try to keep certain items lubed up especially when cold out with spray to hopefully get more life out and zero sqeaks, beware if buying cars, Car sales will do this to all cars and you won't get any squeaks on lookup at used cars, its worth having a mechanic check out your vehicle that you might purchase at a chunk of change to spend the money before dropping $10K plus on used vehicle. Most say take your mechanic with you, well they can't check out a vehicle properly, I liked this video, no nonsense video, just right to it and showed what used, Silicone works great for rubber, I also use on door rubber seals just where thevdoor meets the metal and do both, the door and the rubber gasket on car, I use Silicone spray on your regular household sponge and clean them down and then add Silicone Spray to 1 sponge that I only use for Door seals only, my doors don't freeze up in winter time from the cold and end up with broken door handles, people pull until they break off, if getting cold out, I do every year just before winter. Don't need alot on but just enough to look wet.
Show them how it’s done bro I’ve seen videos people remove and sway bar links and drop in sub frame. It’s ridiculous how complicated they make it for learners to work on their own.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
2005-2010 odyssey bushings: amzn.to/3PvNpE4
Silicone paste: amzn.to/3Pw6GoI
Flexible ratchet: amzn.to/40qM0Vx
#ad
Excellent, no-nonsense, to the point video. Thanks for posting.
I just came to the realization a few minutes ago that I think this is what's causing the clunking in my front end when hitting bumps. Everything else is firm, but I saw another video about checking play in the sway bar, so I went out and checked that, and sure enough, there was a bit of play in it that sounded exactly like what I was hearing.
Nice to see one of your videos showing how to do the job :)
I also had the same clunking for a long time, replaced the swaybar endlinks and the clucking went away. Cheap and easy fix, pair of OEM endlinks costs under $40 shipped. Check out my civic or accord swaybar endlink videos, its exactly the same for the odyssey, rather most cars.
That was my first thought, but I replaced those already when I bought the van about two years ago (with Moog). It was the first thing I checked anyway, but I can't detect any movement in the links no matter how hard I try to move them by hand.
I did change my swaybar bushings and endlinks at the same time so I can't tell which one fixed the problem lol
Fair enough :) well I've poke and prodded and pulled at everything under there, and the sway bar is the only thing I can make move at all, so I'm going to give it a try. It's cheap anyway :)
Let me know what happens!
My fave tools for Hondas-those swivel head ratchets. Best tools to have for these vehicles!💚
Yay somebody with brains thank you sir for some reason my bushings are just completely gone 😂 lots of clunking and feels like your riding in a off-road buggy!! Very unstable at highway speeds
This helped me a lot, especially your comment responses. I have a clunking going over bumps in my 02 MDX and I replaced the stabilizer links and it did not fix the clunking noise. I will try the bushings next. I am pretty sure that it will take care of it since the sound is exactly like the sound heard in your video when you remove the bushing and the bar hits the frame. Also, I had my son rock the MDX to make the clunking sound while I felt the suspension components. I could feel the clunking vibration in the lower stabilizer connection, so I think it must be the bar hitting the frame and transmitting the vibration to the lower end of the link.
Check the other suspension components as well. Worn motor mounts can also cause clunking.
I have a 2008 Acura Mdx the clunking noise was my sway bar links and get them from the dealer.
Easy replacement using the flex ratchet.thanks for posting your DIY.
Thanks for the silicone paste reminder!!!
My Honda Accord 210 makes rattling or thumping noise when goes through bumps. The car steering is very stable at any speed and there seems to be no problem with struts or ball-joint. Do you think it could be sway bar bushing? Are these sway bars both back and front? Because occasionally I seem to hear similar noise in the rear of the car too. BTW! Excellent video ... very much to the point.
Check these bushings and the endlinks.
I like it a lot, it is a little stiffer than i'm used too but it is really quick and great on gas believe it or not. My wife has the RL and it rides so smooth!
The more I loosen my bolts the tighter they get. I have both sides jacked up now and both wheels off (I've learned you have to have the anti roll bar level). Crazy. Simple job I thought.
Both sides have to be jacked up
Thanks for sharing this video with us.
Did you jack both front tires off the ground to change the bushings?
Both front tires must be off the ground.
Great job also why the silicone paste is it to install it easily
yes and to prevent squeaks
I hear clunking when I turn my steering wheel in low speed or even parked. Do you think replace bushings will fix it? Thanks!
That could be a lot of things. Inspect all of the suspension components.
This is mostly cv axle issue.Not related to bushing.It can be tie rods also
Those bushing still looked good?
Just to show you guys lol
One of the bolts for my front sway bar bushing snapped! Can I drill it out from underneath by just removing the wishbone or does it need whole subframe removing?
Depends how much space you have. Drill and retap.
@@MrRangerZr1 thanks. I was able to remove the wishbone and drill out the old bolt.
Do we need wheel alignment after this sway bar bushings replacement?
No
One other question. I see that you cannot get a torque wrench in there. Just tighten until you can tighten no more?
My thoughts too.
If your torque wrench can't fit then tighten it with a ratchet by feel
Nice job, but in my pilot 2007 there is no room from above to put the swivel or regular rechet!!
How to do that?
Some cars you need to get creative, try a ratcheting wrench for example
I assume that using silicone grease like silglide is a fine substitute for the 3M silicone paste?
As long as it doesn't swell up the rubber overtime
I see you have different and bigger calipers is this accord 8 th generation?
This is a 3rd gen odyssey
What year of honda was this I have a honda 2017 thay I need to replace the bushing on I was wondering would I need to drop the supfram
some cars you do, if it's accessible like this no need
How do you know when the bushing goes bad?
It'll be torn or be oversized, meaning it won't make contact with the swaybar anymore. It should hug around the swaybar.
@MrRangerZr1 I replaced the bushings but messed up and used antiseize instead of silicon paste (trying to do too many things at once). Now I'm wondering if I should take them off to replace the antiseize with paste or leave it alone.....?
Definitely not the right paste for the area but you should be fine.
@MrRangerZr1 I removed the bushings, cleaned the rubber with simple green, dried them, and reinstalled with silicon paste.
Then a month later the garage says I've got the infamous VCM oil burning issue and need a new engine. Piston rings were already changed at 40k under warranty but I guess it has gone bad again
Install a VCMuzzler. Video is on my channel
Are these the sway bar bushings at the front or at the rear? I was told by a service shop that the rattle from the back of my 08 Pilot was due to bad sway bar links. But they look ok to me, at least visually. So, want to check on the bushings too and diagnose the exact cause myself. In another video, accessing and replacing the bushings looked really hard, but this one seems very clear and doable. So, want to confirm the location. Thanks.
This is in the front on an odyssey
those ones in rear are a MFER to get at . My ridgeline makes a terrible noise
Is it possible to change bushings without loosening end links,mine are solid?
You have to disconnect them. Just disconnect the top nut.
Would red rubber grease work in place of silicone paste?
no it will disintegrate the rubber
Cool video for the hearing impaired. 😀 👍
😁
Is it necessary for me to lift the car? On my Acura ILX I can easily reach the sway bar bracket because my driveway is at an incline.
You need to lift the car to remove pressure off the suspension
I'm doing the sway bar links and bushings tomorrow. I read that the car should be on the ground when torquing the links. Does the suspension also need to be under load before tightening the bushing brackets?
Matthew Holzner shop manual doesn’t state that. You need to do that for the LCA.
I tried this on my 2005 accord cl7 (same as Tsx). But on those you cannot reach the rear bolt, because it's hidden under the chassis. The only way I found, is to partially remove/lower the subframe, which is a real hassle if you don't have access to a car lift. I did replace both front tie rod end links, and no rattling sounds anymore.
thats my thinking ...i need to replace my front ARB Bushes ...theres no way you can get in there to the rear bolts ...you must have to drop the front subframe !!! ...did you ever sort yours on th 7gen...annoying thing ..honda may have realised this ...becuase on the 8 gen ,this video is possible ...with an angled ratchet .....but you couldnt even get a socket on the rear bolt
You can. No need to drop the sub frame. I am planning to make video on my 2015 accord v6. On discussions forum they say same but today i used the long extension and lose the back bolt. I will post video in a week or so
This the one ladies and gentlemen 😂
Excellent 👍
Did you remove the sway bar link or not on this job?
Not needed
My Honda accord was making like an old door sound with no oil type, I changed the sway bars linked and it worked for a while, then I started to hear it again and just changed the bushings but the noise is still there, also i hear the sound while going on speed bumps and also it sounds more when there’s 2 ppl in thr front, you can also hear it as soon as you getnout the car, is like a sound an old door makes whenever you open it, it also sounds whenever you put weight i was pushing the hood down to test if it would sound and it did, is weird whenever it rains and I drive through puddles snd water goes inside under the car, thr sound stops for like 2 days then it comes back, what can this be?
Check the other suspension components for wear
Is there 2014 honda accord video ?
This video is more or less same process
Awesome, thanks!
Excellent!!! Thanks
Update- put Moog bushings on yesterday on the front sway bar of my 2005 Pilot - No More clunks. Thanks again for this Awesome Video!! 👍👍
what is a bushing and what is the purpose of it
This is the sway bar bushing, the sway bar stabilizes the car when you turn. These bushings keep the bar from flopping around when going over bumps.
There is no need to lift the car for this repair correct? Just making sure 🙏
You need to lift the car
How do I get that bolt in the back out
Like I showed. Use various ratchets and extensions.
@@MrRangerZr1 thx for replying but there isn't enough space for me to get the ratchet back there.
@@JayFit366 have to get creative like I said. Just like I did in the video.
Your old bushing look like good condition why you replaced it.
to show you how to replace it :)
@@MrRangerZr1 ohh ok.
The old bushing has a gap towards the top. You can clearly see it needs to be replace. That gap will cause the sway bar to move around and that is where you get the clunking sound when going over bumps at low speed.
@@elantra45 ok
VERY NICE VIDEO!!!
Hello I just installed my new rear shocks but now I'm hearing weird noise from the shock whenever I put weight on the car I can hear a very light clunk. When driving I can hear it when I'm at a stop then accelerate or on very bad roads. It sounds as if the bump stop isnt put on properly but idk i double check everything .Car drives smooth on the highways. Could this be an end link? Bad sway bar bushings? I have aftermarket struts but used all the oem hardware like dust boot, bump stop, bushings etc... I checked all but the noise is mainly coming from the new shocks which is very weird.
Sometimes aftermarket shocks are worst than what you had before. I would retorque everything and check for other damaged suspension components.
MrRangerZr1 I'm starting suspect that it might be a sway bar bushing because when I accelerate from a stop I could hear it or when reversing
Bushing, endlinks, motor mounts, could be a number of things. What car do you have?
MrRangerZr1 12' civic exl. I can only hear sound on from the rear. Also I can hear it when I shake the car from the rear and I can feel something hitting the rear shocks
Take the tire off and inspect the suspension. Check for deteriorated spring seats, swaybar bushings, endlinks, etc.
Good video... but you didn't show how to loose the whole sway bar. Thanks
You don't need to.
Thanks for the video! I used your Amazon links to order the bushings and flexible ratchet. Super easy with that ratchet!
However, I'm still getting the clunk sound. I replaced the bushings without undoing the top sway bar link. Was that a mistake? Does it all need to be done at once?
If it doesn't matter, then is my next step to replace the tie rods?
Clunk sound could be coming from something else, inspect the other suspension components
My 97 honda civic is making a creak noise when stopped when i tilt play the steering wheel and in low speed on a stop and i changed shocks sway bar links upper and lower balljoints to tie rods and i get the annoying crrreeeeakkkk crrreeaaaaak noise still. What makes that noise?
Did you change the strut mounts?
@@MrRangerZr1 i changed the shocks and i believe its my lower ball joint i removed my wheel and has a high squeak coming by the knuckle and weight is on the lower ball joint. But doesn't look damaged tho probably worn from the inside the joint.
Thank you!
Your welcome!
How did you get your swaybar to move enough to get it out mine won’t budge
My sway bar was bad lol Disconnect the swaybar endlinks from the strut, should make it easier.
MrRangerZr1 ok thanks!
MrRangerZr1 here I was thinking it wouldav been that easy
Do you think the end links are bad also or just do the sway bar bushings, I have the clunking and have replaced the motor mounts all (3) and transmission mount. I just bought the Sway bar bushings from Acura.
Change both of them.
Thank you, I already did the rear endlinks and it made a huge difference!
Yeah it's an inexpensive "mod" really makes the car feel great again.
I bet it will really help. I have 196,xxx on my 2007 TL Type S
Yeah for sure. How do you like your TL?
Looks easy. Thought you needed to drop the subframe to get access to the bolts.
Just need to use the right ratchet/extensions
I have changed everything but the bushings in my car. It gets really loud when it’s hot outside. Also if I have a passenger in the front. So I think I will order and change this also. It’s like a thump and it’s sounds terrible.
What exactly did you change?
The cv axle (both sides) , the struts and the sway bar links. But I didn’t change the bushings.
Check the control arms.
Does anyone know if you can change out the sway bar without dropping subframe?
Subframe has to be dropped.
@@MrRangerZr1 hence why they welded it instead of replacing it. Lucky me. Lol
i need to remove the whole sway bar. how do you remove the sway bar
like partially dropping the subframe
@@MrRangerZr1 I cut into the sway bay about 1/2 way cutting off a nut changing the links. Seem still stable. Should I replace it. Your thoughts.
like where it bolts on or the main swaybar?
what size socket did you use? and will this work on 2012 accord?
12mm. Same process.
@@MrRangerZr1 is the 12 mm deep socket needed. I tried the gearwrench tilt wrench and it’s too thick and hits the chassis. Do you need the deep well to clear the chassis or will a regular 12mm socket work?
IMHO I think you need the regular socket and deep well. The passenger side on the lx 2010 is to congested for the deep well. Even better maybe a twisty socket for that side.
this is 2005 honda pilot?
2005-2010 odyssey. Same process on any car honestly.
Question what's the grease for?
Glen Kelly to prevent squeaks. If you’re using OEM bushings install 100% dry.
MrRangerZr1 thank you for amazing videos! Quick question: why no silicone for OEM bushings? Would it hurt to add some silicone on the inside?
Thank you again!
Thank you sir! Wat was silicone paste for?
To prevent squeaks
@@MrRangerZr1 got it. Tnx again
how did know that they were bad?
Usually you get a front clunking noise. I just filmed a DIY video in my case.
MrRangerZr1 yes, I have that rattling noise now, thanks for sharing the video! Will save me at least $100 from the Honda dealer.
what model of this honda?
odyssey
You use dioelectric grease on these rubber items too, What about a silicone spray for rubber? I try to keep certain items lubed up especially when cold out with spray to hopefully get more life out and zero sqeaks, beware if buying cars, Car sales will do this to all cars and you won't get any squeaks on lookup at used cars, its worth having a mechanic check out your vehicle that you might purchase at a chunk of change to spend the money before dropping $10K plus on used vehicle. Most say take your mechanic with you, well they can't check out a vehicle properly, I liked this video, no nonsense video, just right to it and showed what used, Silicone works great for rubber, I also use on door rubber seals just where thevdoor meets the metal and do both, the door and the rubber gasket on car, I use Silicone spray on your regular household sponge and clean them down and then add Silicone Spray to 1 sponge that I only use for Door seals only, my doors don't freeze up in winter time from the cold and end up with broken door handles, people pull until they break off, if getting cold out, I do every year just before winter. Don't need alot on but just enough to look wet.
Works too
those sway bar bushing looked ok but your lower control arm ball joint looked totally fried. Maybe thats your issue ?
I just filmed a diy video. I also have a lower control arm video on the channel.
Thanks boss
don't need to remove Sway bar link????
No
Do you need to get an alignment after completing this job?
i would like to know this as well. going to be replacing them soon
No alignment needed
Show them how it’s done bro I’ve seen videos people remove and sway bar links and drop in sub frame. It’s ridiculous how complicated they make it for learners to work on their own.
Depends on the car
What Honda ??
Car in the video is an Odyssey