2008-2017 Honda Odyssey Front VTEC Gasket Replacement DIY
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2018
- Here is how to replace the front VTEC gasket on a 2008-2017 honda odyssey. This video will also apply to accords, pilots, etc that have the same assembly design.
Parts and tools listed below:
Gaskets 15845-R70-A01 (amzn.to/2rKF2tI) 15815-R70-A01 (amzn.to/2IRpH4a)
OEM spool/VTEC valve assembly: amzn.to/2TMCTdb (if you want to replace the old gaskets with OEM gaskets)
Pick tool set: amzn.to/2KNk59F
Angled pliers: amzn.to/2PhWHlD
Ratchet: amzn.to/2SpW0sd
Socket set: amzn.to/2PhYpDg
Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2PhYqHk
#ad 
Авто/Мото
*Parts and tools:*
Gaskets 15845-R70-A01 (amzn.to/2rKF2tI) 15815-R70-A01 (amzn.to/2IRpH4a)
OEM spool/VTEC valve assembly: amzn.to/2TMCTdb (if you want to replace the old gaskets with OEM gaskets)
Pick tool set: amzn.to/2KNk59F
Angled pliers: amzn.to/2PhWHlD
Ratchet: amzn.to/2SpW0sd
Socket set: amzn.to/2PhYpDg
Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2PhYqHk
#ad
How did you remove the thin silver plate that separates the two gaskets. Im struggling to remove it. seems like its frozen in place. I don't want to bend it by prying on it
Tom Madle how did You remove I have the same problem?
@@luismedina7526 Hi, I think the middle metal plate is difficult to remove because it is likely that lower gasket is melted to metal plate and lower part of spool valve.
Nune Coco thank you so much for your help!!!!
After many months of changing this solenoid to a dorman brand which came with the gaskets and I have a check engine light. P3497 saying the bank 2 problem I have a random misfires idles rough
I have changed all the spark plugs. any suggestions ?
do you think the brand new parts is defective ?thank you
MrRangerZr1, Thanks so much for the GREAT video. Made replacement of these gaskets extremely easy. Only sticking point I ran into was getting the lower electrical plugs off. One is the Oxygen sensor and not sure the other next to it. Tight space and getting my hands down in there and finding the tab on the very bottom of those connectors to detach them from the bracket took a little time. Once I figured it out, everything else was a piece of cake. Honda wanted $432 to do this. $9 for the gaskets and an easy 45 minutes and you're done. Thanks again for taking the time to provide such great video detail of this repair!!
Great video high definition and video angles. I replaced mine with just gasket sealant and started leaking again. Using a new gasket set and doing it right this time!
Not a single word spoken yet you showed me exactly how to make the repair. Thank you.
this was the best tutorial i could find anywhere very helpful and it’s the same procedure on the 08 Honda Accord V6 thanks!!!
Thanks to this great video and some helpful comments, I was able to fix the leaking spool valve on my 2008 Honda Odyssey. This literally saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you so much.
This is really good video. I was being asked to pay over $500.00 to fix the leak. I bought the gaskets on Amazon for 12 dollars and without any experience, first time car owner, I managed to follow the video instructions and did it. Beware one of the two little metal pieces that hold the solenoid came off and fall. After a while thinking I messed up, I finally found it by the radiator fans. I was very lucky and finished the project. No leaks so far.
Did you have any Check Engine Light on the dashboard after?
Juan how many gas kits neee to be replaced in one part ???.its one or two
@@MrMianfsd two
Good job dude
I just got a quote for $550 from mechanic to replace the “valve cover gasket” but doing more research it’s leaking on the dip stick valve base. Nervous about doing on my own so your comments helps. Did you buy both gaskets? Disconnect battery?
Thank you for the video. Thanks for providing the parts information on description.
Thank you for posting this video...and a link to the necessary parts. I was unable to find them locally. However, your links to online suppliers have alleviated that headache. Very helpful video. Thank you.
It's all in the description.
Thanks man, absolute S-tier video. I was able to replace the gaskets in about 30 minutes. Good thing I did too, cause the old gaskets were crumbly and sticky garbage.
This is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to put this together!
Thank you so much for this video, well made. Im pretty sure that's my problem cause I see oil on top of my alternator. Thank god my alternator still good. Will order gaskets right now and take care of it. Thanks again.
Did you replace the gaskets yet?
Did you have any CEL light and DTC codes after?
Let me know please.
I was wondering how oil was collecting around my dipstick. Great video and looks like a pretty easy fix.
Hello, I just read your comment, I have oil collecting around the dipstick too. I wonder if I need to replace the whole part (removing the cover gasket) Did it fix the leak?
@@philippzbirun6729 It's been a while but I think it did fix that leak. I don't remember this being too terribly hard to do.
Thanks for vid! 08 Accord bad oil leak killed one alternator. I didnt have to remove the steel bar to get the spool valve out. My old gasket was brittle and broke apart in pieces.
Man I needed this video! Thanks and keep up the great work.
Great video very detail instructions. By the way, I like the chrome colored valve cover looks very clean!
Best video I've seen - concise and informative. Bravo!
I am very happy to see the number of people that I’ve had success with this. But it also makes me very upset, because I cannot figure this out. In my 2011 Honda Odyssey exl there is a line that runs off the right side of the fuel injector Rail that connects to a fuse box and all the way to the battery. It has plastic ridging so it’s not like there is a connector or anything to remove. I literally cannot move the piece so I’m stuck. Does anybody else have this?
@@TheCgraham18 I have this and I'm in the same boat. Haven't been able to find a video or explanation on how to disconnect it.
Great video. Thanks for sharing/posting for all of us DIY'ers
For people who are asking for the torque value: 2 short bolts are at 106 inlbs and the long one is at 110 inlbs. I did obtained the value from a oem spool valve using a calibrated torque wrench at work. So the actual values should be close to what I stated above. I also match mark my bolt and torque them back to those value and the marks match perfectly.
Awesome. Hopefully everyone sees this.
Why the inch lbs? I like foot lbs.
thurman lol, divide by 12 for ft lbs
The TSB 20-023 calls out 6 ft lbs. or 72 inch lbs.
I just went good n tight
Thanks for your video with the parts!
Thanks for the great video! Just fixed my 09’ Odyssey. So just a few notes to others that may be looking to do the same. Hardest part was probably removing all the connectors, they don’t come off as easy as they do in the video! Then again, my engine looks “normal”, can’t eat off it! 😂 Removing the the existing lower gasket was a bit of a pain as well, it didn’t come off like it did in the video. I don’t have the picks shown in the video, I used a small screwdriver and and awl. Finally removed it, good thing I wasn’t going to fix it, because it came out in a few pieces. I purchased a new part from Majestic Honda in RI, they have very good prices and great customer service. Shipped to me in 2 days. Originally purchased it from eBay, but they’re fake, so I rather not do this fix again. I also marked the screws with a Sharpie and torqued the screws to about 110 inch pounds as someone had mentioned. But also made sure my sharpie marks lined up. Put everything back together, started it up and no engine lights (there wasn’t any lights before, it just smelled like burning plastic inside). Hope this helps someone.
Using the OEM assembly/gaskets is the way to go
@@MrRangerZr1 Are the dowels important? When I took mine off the top dowel was missing not sure if it fell when i took it off, i didnt hear anything fall. I did still have a leak but i torqued the bolts down to the torque specs someone else commented and I think the leak stopped. Will drive tomorrow and see if it leaks. Also changed my oil filter housing gasket too. Took the car to the dealer last week and they said the spool gaskets were leaking and my oil pump needed to be resealed. Just labor for oil pump reseal is $940! I think there was a leak from oil filter housing too that’s why I replaced the gasket oem was only $16. I poured some stop leak in with an oil and filter change hoping that the oil pump seals stop leaking. It was just a small leak was loosing 4-8 oz over 2k miles.
I just replace a new battery and the alternator for 2015 Honda Odyssey,cost $1000,but They didn't fixed the leak oil problem😢 so good to know how to replace this!really help me a lot!❤
If they just replaced the alternator, very likely power steering fluid (oil) spill all over the alternator and everything else around it when they removed it because you have to disconnect the power steering line to the the alternator replacement. You might want to make sure your spool valve is actually leaking before you figure that's where the oil came from. May not be leaking.
My 2014 started leaking from that same area, I had to replaced an alternator twice, thanks for the video.
same here :(
@@closer-look just did replace mine yesterday, problem solved. And only cost me $10.00.
No music? No introduction complete with "smash that like and subscribe" nonsense?
OMG dude, this is RUclips gold. It's straight forward magic that took me by surprise.
Hello mr ranger, my honda accord leaked in this same place, solenoid of the vtec command, in brazil I did not find the joint, so I used a special henkel silicone, its very good explanation about.
best DIY video award goes to .....
It fits a lot more than the '08-'10 Odyssey. Odyssey to '17, Pilot '09-'15, Accord '08-'12, and Crosstour '10-'12. Double check if your vehicle has 15810-R70-A04, the spool valve these gasket go to.
Thanks for providing the part numbers!
Great video and shows everything step by step! I just got my gasket and going to tackle it later today!
Excellent job !!!
Oh man you just save me a lot of work, I was going to replace the whole valve gasket. I just bought a 2010 with that problem. The oil went all the way to the alternator
If your me they're both leaking:)
Thank you for sharing!
Saved my A$$ !!!!! Thank you 🙏
Just got my gaskets. Changed out both of them. One of the gaskets wouldn’t stay in place. But I think I held it in place enough to tighten the 3 bolts. Got them all tight evenly. So wish me luck with this easy procedure. I compared the old gaskets with the new ones. Those old ones were just flat and one of them kind of broke apart. I hope this fixed the leak.
Since its aftermarket it won't fit like OEM but we got no other choice, unfortunately.
Did you have any Check Engine light in the dashboard afterwards?
Great video. FWIW i have a 14 touring elite and there’s an additional wire going into the harness on the right from the fuse box that is NOT removable. So, you can’t disconnect the entire harness and flip up to the left. I was able to just remove the bolts for the upper spool valve and replace the gaskets without moving the black wire harness at all.
I just removed the harness to show you guys better, in reality you don't have to completely out of the way.
Not sure if your still answering questions on an old issue but here goes.
2012 odyssey touring picked up used 4 years ago w 125k super clean from Florida no rust. 2 years ago at round 135k check charge system came on changed alternator 400 beans new. All good, no leaks.
2 years later, runs great, now at 146k but noticed oil leak. Was all set to do valve cover gaskets (coming from owning all subarus). Noticed oil by alternator, seemed like valve covers.
Went for Ny inspection and noticed p3497 code. Still passed just a pending code. All monitors up.
Had that code once before due to needing oil change from what i read on honda forums so I did oil change. Now a few days later check charging light came on, then abs and a bunch of crazy. Then dead.
Assuming it's the Alternator again and now after seeing your video and reading comments, I'm leaning towards it must be this gasket.
Does this gasket failing actually throw this code or is it the actual part needed to get rid of leak and code? I see the gaskets on Amazon for 7 and 9 dollars or do you think I need tho whole unit for 220.
Gonna pick up oem Alternator tomorrow from local boneyard for 60 beans but I know it will fail again unless I fix this leak. Please advise, sorry for long story. Just want to get it right the first time.
Thank you
Buy brand new denso alternator and new oem spool valve assembly. Install the gaskets from it and install the new top portion of the valve.
Thanks) tried aftermarket leaked went oem vtec assembly ) nice and fat gaskets )
Good Video! Thanks for sharing! Did you paint your upper intake plenum silver? They usually don't look that nice??!
I did paint it.
Thank you 👍
Great video - To be extra sure there's no new leakage with these gaskets would you recommend also using Honda bond? (like you did in your other video)
You can if you want, VERY little amount.
Question for you sir. I have a 2014 Odyssey and I’m about to put my 2nd alternator on due to spool valve leakage. I’m gonna go with the Hondabond route first. Do I need to use Hondabond on both gaskets or just the top? Thanks for your time and I appreciate the help from your videos👊🏼
Just swap out the gaskets, check the updated video.
Damn, I couldn't find the gasket last year, had to buy the whole solenoid, at almost $500 Thanks for sharing this for people.
Yeah some people just bought the whole assembly. Did you replace the whole assembly or just took the gaskets from it?
I replaced the whole solenoid. It was actually leaking from the mating surface on the head AND the internals of the solenoid, where the 2 parts split.
How did you replace it? Did you have to remove the cam and lifters?
No, I did just like you did in your video. Just plugged in the new solenoid and bolted it up.
The shop manual says to remove the cam and what not to replace the whole assembly.
Just gaskets correct? No sealant needed? Great video and links. This will save me quite a bit of money that the dealership was going to charge me!
Yes check out the updated video
Thanks again. This video was perfect although my plugs were more of a pain! I went ahead and bought the entire replacement part. Even with the new picks and bent nosed pliers everything was still less cost than just the part that the dealer was going to charge me. Much less!! Thanks again!
Link for gaskets in the description.
Thanks for this! Just replaced the gaskets yesterday and so far so good! We were told if we didn't do this we would keep losing alternators due to oil leaking on them repeatedly so this could save hundreds of dollars potentially. One issue - it appears I set my torque wrench to 9 or 10 ft/lbs and was very careful but the bolts seem to continue to turn no matter how gently I screw them in. Could I have inadvertently stripped them? Or could I have tightened them past the threads? Everything feels very tight so I just left them the way they were but the bolts never "stopped" when I tightened them...
I see that others on this thread used 6-8 ft. lbs. of torque so that may have been my issue. Again I thought I was very gentle, but maybe that was the difference.
the smaller torques wrenches dont click loudly, you have to feel for the subtle click. You might of stripped them.
Just got those gaskets. Did you clean with brake cleaner before installing the new gaskets? Also do I need to apply a little bit of oil on those new gaskets before reassembly?
Just clean it good and then install
Hello I've been having issues with frying alternators. Found this leaking, hopefully this will fix the issue.
Oh yeah this leak will fry alternators.
Luckily it was only one(1) alternator, but I had the same experience.
me to one alternator bit the dust, tried to clean worked on and off ordered one out of a wrecked odyssey so that will be challenging to change...
I'm on third alternator since purchase in October. Dealer said it was this 🤞
Thanks for all the info @MrRangerZr1! This solved my leak originally, but now unfortunately it seems to be leaking again. Don't know if I over tightened or under tightened because unfortunately I don't have a torque wrench. Maybe I should try turn the bolts a little tighter? I know that's a long shot. Or maybe I should just take it back apart and add hondabond? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Aftermarket gaskets? Some aftermarket gaskets are really horrible. Hondabond should do the trick.
@@MrRangerZr1Thanks for getting back. A little while ago I went back and checked the bolts and realized I made a terrible noob mistake. I forgot to let the engine warm up and recheck the bolts, they were definitely looser than I originally left them torqued to. I snugged them up and for now the leak seems to have stopped. Going to keep an eye on it and if need be I'll use the hondabond. Thanks man!
Be careful, metal expands when hot, you can strip the bolts easily.
@@MrRangerZr1 Roger that. I tightened them up when the engine was cooled down, there was quite a bit of play left in them for sure. Only reason I noticed it was leaking is because I'm swapping this PITA belt tensioner right now lol
Check the valve cover gaskets too. Front cover leak/crack is common.
Great video! I have a question: I only see you apply the sealer on top gasket, should I apply the sealant on both gaskets?
When you're replacing both gaskets no need to put sealant at all.
Awesome video. Do you have a video for doing the rear VTec solenoid seals (drivers side)?
It's the same thing for the rear. Here's a video on a 05-07 ruclips.net/video/7C6oprBfvAI/видео.html
Mine is a 2007 so would it only have the rear VTec solenoid? What’s weird is that there is oil getting on the front cat. Will be tearing it apart to get a better look this weekend.
Yes you only got the rear valve like in the video. Check the front valve cover gasket.
Hi MrRanger, quick question, I like to be ahead of the game. My Ody 08 has 95k on it, should I change it even if it is not leaking? Just a measure to avoid a mess up alternator. Thanks
Yeah you should. Buy the OEM spool valve gasket and get the gaskets from it, some aftermarket gaskets aren't good.
All links in description.
I don't have this metal plate in between two parts 3:23 in my Accord 2009 6v !
is this normal ?
You do. It's melted on there. Check again.
@@MrRangerZr1 you are right 👍
Gaskets from your link arrived today, going to get my garage to do this, good people and i trust them, a five minute walk from where I live so if something goes wrong, Anyhow on a closer inspection the other day I see honda bond squeeze out underneath the whole unit, the part we are not touching correct? the oil is coming from on top and is around the dipstick. We will see what transpires.
yes just the top portion
Thanks!@@MrRangerZr1
Mechanic recently replaced the vtec spool valve and gasket. I think some of these cars have 2 separate vtec spool valves right? Now I just need to figure out if this is the problem or if it's the valve cover gasket
This video is for the 08-10 and the 05-07 is this video: ruclips.net/video/7C6oprBfvAI/видео.html
I love this V6 engine
It's not bad
My 2010 with 160k km is definitely leaking at the spool valve, I have ordered the new gaskets you supplied the links for and they will arrive on the 12th of March, had a nearby garage put it up on the hoist to see if it was anything else, they said to start with the spool valve gaskets, however i am seeing oil on the exhaust manifold bolt to the left of the of the spool valve, nothing on the other side. Honda did a valve adjustment 6k km ago and charged me for new valve cover gaskets, so unlikely it's the valve cover gasket I hope. Any suggestions, does the oil leak from the spool valve spread that far to the left? Great tutorial by the way.
Yes it spreads and makes a mess. Clean the engine after you replace the spool valve gaskets.
Great video! If I buy the OEM valve assembly, why wouldn't I use the whole top part for the repair, rather than just using the gaskets?
It's up to you.
I would just replace the whole thing.
There is another near the firewall! Any videos on that? Fixed the front one and six months later got the leak in the back
That's a PITA to get to but it's the same process as the front.
The link for the gasket, would that fit a 2011 accord v6? Because the part number says 15810 all I can find online is the 15815 and 15845
The links will fit the V6 accord. Pilots, MDX, etc all share the dumb design.
Hi @MrRangerZr1 can you also please put a video for back solenoid gasket replacement as well. thanks
If you get the oem spool that only comes with the upper gasket correct? So you would still need hondabond for the lower?
Comes with both. No hondabond needed.
Hi there mr rangerZr1, is there a video showing the removal on the parts that this attaches to ?
It's coming. Stay tuned.
Hi, thanks for the video. Is there gaskets from well known from aftermarket brands? Or do we have to rely on Chinese products?
You can buy the OEM valve to get the OEM gasket. Links are in the description.
Hi MrRangerZr1 thank you for making this video on replacing the gasket and helping the Odyssey community overcome this common problem. I was just wondering if you could help me. I changed both gaskets which fix the leak but then I took a 300 mile roadtrip and I got the P3497 code. Could it be that I maybe overtorqued it? I did accidentally over tightened it which could of damaged the top solenoid but I retorqued it back to 6lb feet and the code is still there. Do you think that my only solution is to replace the solenoid(but keep the bottom rocker arm) to fix this issue? What should I do?
Bryan check the oil level first. If it doesn’t go away, then you’ll have to buy the OEM assembly and replace the top portion.
Hey Mr. Ryan I have the same issue as you!!! Did changing the top portion like MrRanger suggested fix the issue?
I hand tighten them and I believe I did over tight like you did ;(
I retightened the bolts but the code never went away. I brought a code scanner and reset the code and the code gone for around 9 months now. So I recommend that if you have codes after replacing the gasket try retightening the solenoid, clear the code with a scanner, and drive on the highway and in the city get the readiness codes set to make sure the code won't come back. It worked for me and I passed inspection just in time.
@@JosephSal901 replacing the top portion did work for me. So after replacing the gaskets I got the codes so I retightened the bolts and I found that after driving for months the codes will not go away on their own without you resetting them with a code scanner. After clearing the codes the codes never came back for months but unfortunately my gaskets started leaking again and I ended buying the new oem top portion, replaced it and never had a leaking or code problems for more a than year already. So yes, you should replace the top portion with a oem one but make to torque it correctly. Also keep in mind the codes won’t go away on their own so just stop by AutoZone or somewhere to get it cleared and drive on the highway to get the all the emission system ready and after a few months if it doesn’t come back you’ll be sure you fix the problem for sure.
So I replaced the gasket as done in the video then I got a check engine light and googled it. I found that other people had said that they had the same problem and they took it back off and torqued it so I did the same and I accidentally snapped the bolts on top. None of my tools are working on removing the broken end and I’m kinda stuck on what to do. Any advice?
How much thread is sticking out?
MrRangerZr1 I figured it out today not much was sticking out but I basically took off the cylinder head cover. Used a bolt extractor to remove the entire vtec and replaced the whole thing.
Did you replace the whole valve assembly or just the top portion?
Is it worth it to add a sealant as well as a precautionary measure or is that not necessary?
You can but very little
MrRangerZr1 - do you have a video for replacing 08 odyssey timing belt tensioner?
Here: ruclips.net/video/F6x6ZQlZTw4/видео.html
is it safe to spray brake cleaner at the lower solenoid assembly? Can the cleaner waste cause any problem inside the solenoid after assembling back together?
I wouldn't do that
When you put in the new gaskets is it required to lubricate it or put a substance on it before putting it together??
No need, just remove and install gaskets
MrRangerZr1 - The video title says 2008-2010 Odyssey but in the description it says 2008-2017 Odyssey. I have a 2011. Is this procedure and parts exactly the same for the 2011?
Yes it's the exact same.
I have a 2011 Honda Odyssey that stalled which I was driving. Car won't start and had it towed to the dealer. The dealer said that the alternator need to be replaced, oil leak is coming from spool valve and engine valve cover gasket need to be replaced. Do you have video how to replace the engine valve cover gasket?
On the V6, no. Basically the intake manifold has to come off and you can get access to the covers.
Any thoughts on using the Dorman VVT set instead of the OEM? Reviews seem good... Part is Dorman 918-056
Dorman is straight up garbage. Use OEM only.
Hi, both links go to the same part...can’t find 15845-R70-A01
One is sold out, try contacting the seller.
Subscribed!
I have a 2008 Honda odyssey Touring and the dealer is telling me that I need to buy the whole front and back solenoid assembly because it is not the same gasket and they sell as a whole. Do you know if I can just order the gaskets and change them? Or are they different?
The rear gasket is different. Is your rear solenoid leaking? Don't believe whatever they say at first.
Did you end up doing the rear? Could you share the gasket link if there is one? Cant find any videos on rear vtec gasket replacement
Great Video Do you know the torque specs for these bolts??
like 6 lbf.ft or something, just snug it up like i did. people who don't know how to use a small torque wrench snap the bolts.
@MrRangerZr1 I have a 2008 Odyssey EX-L and I purchased the parts listed in your description and followed your video, but it’s still leaking oil by the dip stick. Do you know what else needs to be replaced?
You may need to use the OEM gaskets from the OEM valve. Link in description.
Thanks for the reply. Do you think I should I replace the the entire Front Spool Valve Assembly with the OEM you listed? If so, do you have a video installing it?
@@shimshadee no just take the gaskets out like in the video. Also check in the bottom portion that's glued on from factory isn't leaking, that doesn't leak 99.9% of the time, it's these gaskets that leak.
I know this is an older video but just to clarify this fix works for all the J35A7 engines (with VCM) ?
Your title says 2008-2017 ... but I have a 2007 Odyssey EXL which I believe uses the same A7 engine as the 08's so just wanted to double check before I buy the gaskets. I have a seepage around that same area.
Thanks.
Your 2007 J35A7 is different from the 2008+ J35a7 so this video doesn't apply to you
@@MrRangerZr1 OK thanks for clarifying.
Just replace both gaskets and front and rear oil pressure switches still see oil collecting at the base of the dipstick. Also thinking of replacing the valve as I still have a p3497 code. Any chance I could buy the valve and only replace the top part showed on the video getting to the base would take more then my limited mechanical skills?
Have you check the oil level?
@@MrRangerZr1 the oil leak stopped once I checked the switch and tighten it. Im going to reset the check engine light . I was hoping it would turn off by itself after a few days of driving but it hasnt turn off on it own.
MrRangerZr1 I changed these gaskets. The front and rear oil pressure switches. Checked oil level. Cleared p3497 and after driving about 30 minutes. The code came back on. Aside from the seals the switches are oem. All I like to use. Do you know what can still cause the p3497 code.
Just got those gaskets replaced and no more oil leak but a P3497 code keep tripping. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated. Torqued the bolts to around 8.7 foot pound.
Check the connections, you may have forgotten to connect the vcm oil pressure switch.
@@MrRangerZr1 I’ll double check and clean the connector again. The code trips after driving for about 15 minutes or so. Had to clear the code with my scanner each time and then it’ll drive fine.
@@DY81149 Fun fact, that's how we disabled VCM before any disable device existed. Just unplug the vcm oil pressure switch and VCM won't engage, only thing you will have is a check engine light.
@@MrRangerZr1 😆, I wouldn’t mind the CEL if that was the only problem. My engine was stuttering when that CEL came on. Had to pull over to the side and use my scanner to clear the code and then it drove fine. I double checked as you advised and all the connectors were reattached correctly. I believe the oil leak was coming from the top gasket so I‘ll clean and reuse the lower gasket with the filter and see if that solves the problem. I’ve read on Amazon reviews that the tolerance on generic parts might not be up to specs causing the P3497 code. Thanks again for your help!
My gaskets worked just fine
Hi, MrRangerZr1 ! I remember you have tried hondabond gasket maker to stop the oil leak and it worked. Why do you replace this gasket ? Does it leak again? Where did you buy the gasket under the metal plate ?
Long story short, I recently went to change out one gasket (the gasket that I showed in the other video) but I discovered that there was two gaskets. My original fix did not leak, I just decided to change out the gaskets after I found out about the aftermarket gaskets. I bought the gaskets from a USA seller on ebay.
MrRangerZr1 thanks!!
Anytime!
got it，thanks!
Would you have to drain the oil out first at all before opening things up?
No
Mr. Ranger, is the Honda bond needed ? Or can I just use the 2 gaskets with Vaseline ?
No no need of any sealant
Thank you.
Hi. The link for spooler valve is part# 15810r70a04, the valve in your video is 15810r70a03 correct?
All correct parts/numbers listed in description
I hope this video and comments are still alive. My friend has a 2010 Accord Ex V6. I believe I just need to replace the o-ring gaskets on the upper half. Her car died while driving and she towed to dealer. They wanted $1800 to replace the fried alternator and the spool valve. Alternator apparently died from oil dripping down into it from a leaky spool valve.
I replaced the alternator for under $200.
The VIN is 1HGCP3F87AA005541
The Honda PN for the whole valve is 15810-R70-A04.
These gaskets should work correct? Do you have a link to purchase them?
Thank you
Links are in the description.
Make sure her valve cover gaskets aren't leaking.
Right on brother. Gonna order those right now. Thank you very much.
Does this gasket work for the accord? I couldnt find the 15810.
Question about the removal starting at 1:01. My 2013 has a bracket holding the connector cable which leads to the two connectors under the oil fill. factory zip tie holding the cable in place. Should I cut that or is there another way? Looks different than yours. Thanks!
Also what is that double connector (in series)? Mine doesn’t have that
On the newer models you don't need to remove the entire harness out of the way, just unplug the igntion coils and EGR valve and you should have enough slack to work underneath the harness.
@@MrRangerZr1I looked over tons of comments and finally found this response😅 I hope you’ll post a video of the newer model.
Hi! I was wondering, do you put hondabond on both gaskets or just the one on top?
When you replace the gaskets, no sealant is needed.
In the link you posted for the OEM assembly, are the two holes in the bottom part of the assembly (that you didnt remove in this video) for the camshafts?
Yes to remove that part you need to remove the valve cover and rockerarms.
The bottom piece is glued on and rarely leaks.
So you just take the gaskets from the new assembly and install it on your car
@@MrRangerZr1 Thank you! Your videos are incredibly helpful!
Do you have a video for the one in the rear?
I will make one.
Nice video, do you get any check engine light in any way
No.
Well if you due get check engine lights you can easily erase them with (obd check torque app)
would you use an RTV silicone with these new gaskets like you do with the valve cover gasket or if not why not?
Not really needed, but a very thin layer doesn't hurt. If you're using OEM gaskets, no need at all.
@@MrRangerZr1 Just did mine tonight with oem gaskets and still leaks with correct torqued bolts. I guess next step is to silicone rtv gaskets.
I had a family member who is a mechanic also replace the gasket (oil was leaking, it killed alternator) with aftermarket brand from Amazon as well but not the one you listed.. car was fine for a day or two then check engine light came on and gave code P3400, cleared code and again it was fine for a little while now it keeps giving me code P3497 and idles horrible. Family member mechanic checked connections, cleared code and it drove fine for a couple days again then turned back on with bad idle. If car sits over night it doesn’t idle bad when I start it next day, so I clear code and it drives normal for a little while and same thing keeps happening. I got oil change, oil level is fine and also replaced the oil pressure switch and still keep getting the P3497 code and bad idle. Now I don’t know what step to take next and I’m desperate to get my car to work right, do you have any suggestions of what to do next? Thank you in advance!!
morgandavis05 you have to replace the valve assembly (the portion I removed) Link in description.
Do you need to use the Hondabond on either of these gaskets when replacing them?
No
This is for Non-VCM Engines right?
I have a 2006 EX Trim, according to my research it is a J35A6 engine, VTEC Non-VCM engine but I don't know the location of the valve (Don't know if on the Oil dipstick or below the intake)
Video is for VCM engines
I have an oil leak on my 2008 is it obvious if its from here? I took my shroud off any dont see any oil up top. The oil is all pooling at the low spot under my transmission. Im not sure if the filter gasket, this, or maybe the oil pump is leaking. They seem to be odyssey failure points. Whats the best way to diagnose?
check valve cover gaskets, oil filter housing gasket, etc
Do you have to replace the Head cover gasket? 12030-R70-A00. That is what the Dealership said. However, I dont see why I would need to mess with that. The part is accessed just as seen in the video.
To replace the whole assembly, yes. Just this portion, no.
@@MrRangerZr1 Yeah they did say Spool Valve Assembly was leaking (according to dye test). I just assumed it was the gasket failure on the spool valve as it had ruined the alternator. If the cover isnt leaking, I dont know why I would replace it.
That can leak too but all depends. Check and replace as needed. I would just change it out.
In the video you mentioned that you lost one of the dowels. How did you end up replacing it? Do you have a size or part number for the dowel? Asking for a friend.
Michael Lieberman the dowel just make install easier the bolts keep it secure
Part# 94301-06100
@@MrRangerZr1 Thanks for the info!!
Helo sir, i changed the gas kit and i was tightening the bolt but unfortunately bottom left side one bolt got free, now one top and one bottom right side bolt are tight but lower left side bolt is just moving its not tight, plz advise what should i do, i started the engine, its not leaking, but spool valve is depending on 2 bolts only.....
The threads stripped out, try a helicoil.
Why no silicone on this vid vrs the other vid ? Thanks
Because we are using new gaskets, the other video we were reusing the old gaskets. At the time of that video, no replaceable gaskets were on the market.
Great video. I started here to see if it would solve my problem (P3497). I also replaced the oil pressure switch with no luck. I'm wondering if the valve needs replacing....and if that means I ought to just replace the solenoid altogether. I can't find any videos detailing this process, but it looks like once I get all of the plugs/wires out of the way, there are only two mounting bolts for the solenoid. Is that a pretty easy swap?
Check the connections and clear the code first.
MrRangerZr1 I had a family member who is a mechanic also replace the gasket (oil was leaking, it killed alternator) with aftermarket brand from Amazon as well but not the one you listed.. car was fine for a day or two then check engine light came on and gave code P3400, cleared code and again it was fine for a little while now it keeps giving me code P3497 and idles horrible. Family member mechanic checked connections, cleared code and it drove fine for a couple days again then turned back on with bad idle. If car sits over night it doesn’t idle bad when I start it next day, so I clear code and it drives normal for a little while and same thing keeps happening. I got oil change, oil level is fine and also replaced the oil pressure switch and still keep getting the P3497 code and bad idle. Now I don’t know what step to take next and I’m desperate to get my car to work right, do you have any suggestions of what to do next? Thank you in advance!!
@@morgandavis05 Did you fix it? Mine is also having this issue today.
@@CHL41993 did you fix it? From what I read in other videos the issue comes from that little mesh filter on the gasket.
@@AntonAtan Oh I did fix it. It was caused by over-torque. That is a metal to metal valve, so if the valve body bent a little bit, the valve can't open or close properly, hence VCM cannot work properly. I fixed that by undoing that three bolts and then torque them with a small torque wrench. I don't remember the exact torque spec, but somewhere on the internet has it.