I went with a set of Mahle gaskets, bought at O'Riely's, I think around $27 for the two front spool valve gaskets, I reused the metal plate and torqued the three 10mm bolts to 16 ft lbs or 22 nm. Installed last week, no leaks and no codes. 2013 Honda Pilot
I broke several bolts on my 2011 Pilot doing a timing belt/water pump job. I finally Read up on the accuracy of Harbor Freight torque wrenches. I retired mine, and purchased a 1/4” drive inch/lb Kobalt. no more broken bolts. At least you had pro skills at extracting. 🤗
Thanks for the video. Just bought VVT solenoid for the front and rear. Got p3400 and p3497 hopefully this fixes it. I did the same thing you did with replacing the switches but no luck. Will replace and give an update if it clears my codes. (2010 Honda Crosstour)
I only got P3497 after replacing spool valve gaskets but installing it with the old filter. The idea was that would prevent getting any fault codes due to after market filter that was on the new gasket. Were you able to get rid of the fault code and how ?
This is so aggravating how ever it looks easy enough to fix, and I need to be able to do something myself these days. 3 bolts and some cleaner, I ain't gotta crawl up under it I'm happy enough.
I’m glad we didn’t get the v6 engine in the odyssey’s here in Australia,we got the k-24 engine that you guys have in your acuras and a few other models.
Using a torque wrench to do factory torque on these VTT will help prevents DTC Codes. Uneven install will cause the code even on a new Honda Gasket or when you disassemble the OEM one.
For future reference when working on smaller fasteners like on these spool valves, try an old school beam torque wrench. Here is one that would do the trick, and hopefully not snap any bolts. ARES 70214-3/8-inch Drive Beam Torque Wrench - 0-800 Inch/Pounds and 0-90 Newton/Meter Torque Wrench The torque wrench you were using was a beast, not something I would use on these small fasteners, it was overkill, and probably did not even register properly in regards to your torque setting. Just coming from personal experience. I switched over to dial indicator and the small 1/4" beam style torque wrenches for this smaller stuff, so far no broken bolts.
@@mrgrob6579 part# 15810-R70-A04. I only replaced the top piece as the bottom requires you to remove the valve cover. Since the valve cover wasn't leaking I left it alone.
I HAVE CHANGED THAT GASKET BEFORE AND ONLY EX-L version of that engine, Have that kind of gasket with a screen in front of the engine, Used Dorman and since then no problems or any DTC codes.
Just throw this out there I bought just the solenoid from Dorman after trying 2 gaskets sets. And it's working great paid like $90 for it off Amazon. I'll come back and comment again if it messed up but multiple trips and different driving conditions that normally cause the issue to return have not cause an issue as of now.
that "noooo" @17:52. ive said it the exact same way for the exact same reason too many times. as you were tourqing it i was woundering how high do you have that wreanch set. are you using ft/lbs when you possibly should be using inch/lbs? any way i feel your pain brother.
Great video! Helped me out a lot on my long journey in trying to figure out wth my particular issue is. 😂 A few weeks ago I left off at the part where a couple of the bolts exploded off after turning the ignition on, causing oil to explode out of the VVT system (luckily the hood was closed and it was “contained”). Would you please advise me on what exact bits you used to make the pilot hole and remove the stuck broken piece? Thanks!!!! 🙏🏼
It's an older craftsman set that I have for over 20 years. Came in handy to save the day. I think Lowes sells a similar one called speedout. It's in a little black case.
@@xaviersdaddy10 Dude you are a LIFESAVER!! Followed everything you said and it's working like a charm! Thanks for saving my family hundreds of dollars.
That's why I did. I actually replaced the top part of it. You have to remove the valve cover to replace the bottom. It wasn't leaking from there so I didn't touch it. You only need the gasket. Aftermarket might throw a code so I would stay away.
There's a Honda service bulletin that says that's from the oil being to low to run the vvt system I added oil because it was low from leaking and cleared the code and it hasn't came back on so far so good. I take what I said back the code came back on. So I changed the gasket with a generic one and was able to get the screen out of the old one and swapped inti the new gasket. Still didn't solve it so I changed the vvt oil pressure switch and that finally got it working right. When the oil leaked over time it caused a crap ton of problems it killed 3 alternators it misdiagnosed as two bad belt tensioners it was a mess. Because the front valve cover gasket and the vvt gaskets were leaking at the same time I've never had a van give me this much trouble
I didn't have the code. The valve was leaking into the alternator. I got the code after I replaced the gasket with an aftermarket one. The metal screen is different and causes the code. Haven't gotten it since I put oem back in
Glad you were able to finish the job. Did you end up torquing the top bolt to spec? Or did you end up tightening by feel? Wat torque spec were you using?
I replaced this on my 2010 odyssey and months later the P3497 code came back again. I notice the inside of the engine has slugge and the oil fill cap also. What should I do? Engine flush? May this cause more issues?
Did it stop leaking with the eBay gaskets? And does it hurt the engine with the code on the dash or not because if it doesn’t hurt the engine I can deal with the check engine light just don’t want the leaking.
Didn't leak. It won't pass inspection with the light on. Not sure if the CEL is due to lack of oil flow through the different strainer. Didn't want to risk it.
@@xaviersdaddy10Many time the codes are generated by the screen in the gasket, a flow issue. Also, not properly torquing down the three 10mm bolts will cause a code to trip. 16 ft lbs or 22 newton meters. I used the Mahle gasket set, bought up at O'Reily's, reused the metal plate, no issues.
I stripped two bolt holes and have been fighting with it for over a month. Two spool solenoids and many trips to auto parts store+ harbor freight. My advice to all, is only torque the bolts to 8-9 pounds. Good luck.
I torqued mine to 22 newton meters, or 16 foot pounds. Best to use a dial indicator or beam torque wrench. Go slow, hit each one and tighten just a bit, until all are at 22 nm.
There's a Honda service bulletin that says that's from the oil being to low to run the vvt system I added oil because it was low from leaking and cleared the code and it hasn't came back on so far so good
Yea. I have found with my Honda that just about every damn part has to be OEM or won't last 5 months. Something about that Japanese engineering that has zero tolerance. I am about to do this job again and, yep, bought the whole stupid assembly OEM just for the top half and gaskets. I also have to replace my front valve cover because where the spark plug tube seals go have corroded and broke away.
Aftermarket throws an check engine light code. I ordered a set from Amazon. That's why I had to get the OEM. I think the screens are different and mess with oil flow through them.
The bottom one wasn't leaking. It didn't leak in any videos I saw either. Plus the valve cover has to come off to replace that piece. Since the valve cover wasn't leaking I didn't touch it.
me too first the car shuddered so i added oil. then after if threw that same code and added a misfire in cyclinder 4. pulled the plug it looks fine@@AntonAtan
I replace this part and the code came back . My engine has 230k miles odyssey 2010 and what I been doing is remove the oil pressure switch and clean it. Clear the code and stay off for months. I think my engine has lots of oil slugge and that's making the sensor to get clogged. I'm afraid of doing a engine flush because I think all that loose slugge will make a mess.
It should be illegal not to sell just the gaskets for parts. It's total B's that Honda does this. Maintenance now days is making vehicle ownership cost prohibitive. Before I bought my 09 Ody I checked cost of yearly maintenance it was $500. In what world is that????
Yep these honda engine sucks! Especially that stupid cylinders deactivation system. 3.5L VCM. Don't ever buy. So many people have problems with these. Honda should have done recalls on these parts. All hinda models with this engine got this problem amd the oil pressure switch failing
The info in this video along with the broken bolt recovery was enough for me to give it a THUMBS UP and a FOLLOW!!!
Thank you. Lol. I appreciate it
That's a "why didn't I think of that" idea. Good call on replacing only half of it. Specially since the valve covers not leaking
I went with a set of Mahle gaskets, bought at O'Riely's, I think around $27 for the two front spool valve gaskets, I reused the metal plate and torqued the three 10mm bolts to 16 ft lbs or 22 nm. Installed last week, no leaks and no codes. 2013 Honda Pilot
I broke several bolts on my 2011 Pilot doing a timing belt/water pump job. I finally Read up on the accuracy of Harbor Freight torque wrenches. I retired mine, and purchased a 1/4” drive inch/lb Kobalt. no more broken bolts. At least you had pro skills at extracting. 🤗
Not sure I would say "pro skills." I appreciate the compliment though. Thank you
Thanks for the video. Just bought VVT solenoid for the front and rear. Got p3400 and p3497 hopefully this fixes it. I did the same thing you did with replacing the switches but no luck. Will replace and give an update if it clears my codes. (2010 Honda Crosstour)
Good luck. Glad this could help.
I only got P3497 after replacing spool valve gaskets but installing it with the old filter. The idea was that would prevent getting any fault codes due to after market filter that was on the new gasket. Were you able to get rid of the fault code and how ?
This is so aggravating how ever it looks easy enough to fix, and I need to be able to do something myself these days. 3 bolts and some cleaner, I ain't gotta crawl up under it I'm happy enough.
I’m glad we didn’t get the v6 engine in the odyssey’s here in Australia,we got the k-24 engine that you guys have in your acuras and a few other models.
Using a torque wrench to do factory torque on these VTT will help prevents DTC Codes. Uneven install will cause the code even on a new Honda Gasket or when you disassemble the OEM one.
For future reference when working on smaller fasteners like on these spool valves, try an old school beam torque wrench. Here is one that would do the trick, and hopefully not snap any bolts. ARES 70214-3/8-inch Drive Beam Torque Wrench - 0-800 Inch/Pounds and 0-90 Newton/Meter Torque Wrench
The torque wrench you were using was a beast, not something I would use on these small fasteners, it was overkill, and probably did not even register properly in regards to your torque setting. Just coming from personal experience. I switched over to dial indicator and the small 1/4" beam style torque wrenches for this smaller stuff, so far no broken bolts.
Good job, that striped nut was a nightmare. Thank you.
My pleasure.
Going through this same issue rn, looks like I’ll have to go to Honda and order this part tomorrow 🥲 thanks for the video brotha
My pleasure. Glad i could help.
@@xaviersdaddy10do you have the part number for this by any chance?? For the whole assembly
@@mrgrob6579 part# 15810-R70-A04. I only replaced the top piece as the bottom requires you to remove the valve cover. Since the valve cover wasn't leaking I left it alone.
I HAVE CHANGED THAT GASKET BEFORE AND ONLY EX-L version of that engine, Have that kind of gasket with a screen in front of the engine, Used Dorman and since then no problems or any DTC codes.
Just throw this out there I bought just the solenoid from Dorman after trying 2 gaskets sets. And it's working great paid like $90 for it off Amazon. I'll come back and comment again if it messed up but multiple trips and different driving conditions that normally cause the issue to return have not cause an issue as of now.
that "noooo" @17:52. ive said it the exact same way for the exact same reason too many times. as you were tourqing it i was woundering how high do you have that wreanch set. are you using ft/lbs when you possibly should be using inch/lbs? any way i feel your pain brother.
I have that vehicle so I pay special attention to your video. It appears that the fluid level on the power steering reservoir is low.
Yes it was. There was a power steering line leak that has been fixed since this video.
Great video! Helped me out a lot on my long journey in trying to figure out wth my particular issue is. 😂
A few weeks ago I left off at the part where a couple of the bolts exploded off after turning the ignition on, causing oil to explode out of the VVT system (luckily the hood was closed and it was “contained”). Would you please advise me on what exact bits you used to make the pilot hole and remove the stuck broken piece? Thanks!!!! 🙏🏼
Just saw your message. I used a Dewalt titanium bit set to make the pilot hole and an older craftsman extractor set. sorry for the delay in responding
Thanks for sharing this video great job
Thank you
FYI, your using a 1/2 drive Torque Wrench, probably in foot pounds (10 ft/lbs is your comment). Honda spec is for those bolts is 6 ft/lbs.
I've never been good at following directions. Lol. The problem was that it never clicked. So I kept on cranking til it was too late.
Hey buddy great video! What kind of extractor did you use for the broken bolt? I’m literally having the same issue
It's an older craftsman set that I have for over 20 years. Came in handy to save the day. I think Lowes sells a similar one called speedout. It's in a little black case.
Ok thank you so much!
Also did you happen to use a left handed drill bit to set the extractor?
@@k9madaniandme845 No. That could've eliminated the need for the extractor as the remaining piece wasn't tight.
My bolt just broke too. What did you do to get it out? Did you use a screw extractor, or just a drill bit and hit it hard in reverse? Thanks!
Drilled a small hole in the center. Then a slightly bigger one for an extractor to fit.
@@xaviersdaddy10 Thank you!!!! Can't wait to try it tomorrow.
@@xaviersdaddy10 one more question- did overtightening ruin the gasket(s), or did they still work?
Gasket is fine. No leaks since.
@@xaviersdaddy10 Dude you are a LIFESAVER!! Followed everything you said and it's working like a charm! Thanks for saving my family hundreds of dollars.
Hi great video! Do you recommend buying the whole part at the dealership and then just open it up and use the cylinder head solenoid gasket?
That's why I did. I actually replaced the top part of it. You have to remove the valve cover to replace the bottom. It wasn't leaking from there so I didn't touch it. You only need the gasket. Aftermarket might throw a code so I would stay away.
@@xaviersdaddy10 got you thanks for the reply. How much do you think is a fair price would cost to replace just the top in labor? I have a 2013 pilot.
@aloticbeast8094 can't really answer that. It's 3 bolts and a plug, and it comes right out. Shouldn't be more than an hour.
There's a Honda service bulletin that says that's from the oil being to low to run the vvt system I added oil because it was low from leaking and cleared the code and it hasn't came back on so far so good. I take what I said back the code came back on. So I changed the gasket with a generic one and was able to get the screen out of the old one and swapped inti the new gasket. Still didn't solve it so I changed the vvt oil pressure switch and that finally got it working right. When the oil leaked over time it caused a crap ton of problems it killed 3 alternators it misdiagnosed as two bad belt tensioners it was a mess. Because the front valve cover gasket and the vvt gaskets were leaking at the same time I've never had a van give me this much trouble
I didn't have the code. The valve was leaking into the alternator. I got the code after I replaced the gasket with an aftermarket one. The metal screen is different and causes the code. Haven't gotten it since I put oem back in
The Chinese gaskets on Amazon are fine as long as you retain the oem screen. The Chinese screen changes the oil pressure.
Glad you were able to finish the job. Did you end up torquing the top bolt to spec? Or did you end up tightening by feel? Wat torque spec were you using?
It was torqued to spec which I believe was about 8-10lbs
I replaced this on my 2010 odyssey and months later the P3497 code came back again. I notice the inside of the engine has slugge and the oil fill cap also. What should I do? Engine flush? May this cause more issues?
Change you PCV valve out, and do frequent oil changes with a high detergent motor oil. Say every 2,000 to 3,000 miles.
Did it stop leaking with the eBay gaskets? And does it hurt the engine with the code on the dash or not because if it doesn’t hurt the engine I can deal with the check engine light just don’t want the leaking.
Didn't leak. It won't pass inspection with the light on. Not sure if the CEL is due to lack of oil flow through the different strainer. Didn't want to risk it.
@@xaviersdaddy10Many time the codes are generated by the screen in the gasket, a flow issue. Also, not properly torquing down the three 10mm bolts will cause a code to trip. 16 ft lbs or 22 newton meters. I used the Mahle gasket set, bought up at O'Reily's, reused the metal plate, no issues.
I cant work in gloves. But good job brothers clean work
I stripped two bolt holes and have been fighting with it for over a month. Two spool solenoids and many trips to auto parts store+ harbor freight. My advice to all, is only torque the bolts to 8-9 pounds. Good luck.
I torqued mine to 22 newton meters, or 16 foot pounds. Best to use a dial indicator or beam torque wrench. Go slow, hit each one and tighten just a bit, until all are at 22 nm.
Same thing happened to me. I got lucky the bold had some where I could grab it with grip plier
There's a Honda service bulletin that says that's from the oil being to low to run the vvt system I added oil because it was low from leaking and cleared the code and it hasn't came back on so far so good
Let me guess its a harbor freight torque wtench?
Yes, sir. Lol. Honestly though this was the only time I had an issue. It might have been user error.
Yea. I have found with my Honda that just about every damn part has to be OEM or won't last 5 months. Something about that Japanese engineering that has zero tolerance. I am about to do this job again and, yep, bought the whole stupid assembly OEM just for the top half and gaskets. I also have to replace my front valve cover because where the spark plug tube seals go have corroded and broke away.
Gs34049 Is the part number for the spool valve gaskets.
For the whole spool valve assembly is $114 I think
Aftermarket throws an check engine light code. I ordered a set from Amazon. That's why I had to get the OEM. I think the screens are different and mess with oil flow through them.
Was this gasket and code also causing the car/engine to vibrate
No. I didn't have an issue like that.
Thank you for the info
If the original part leaked oil, then won't the identical replacement part begin leaking prematurely as well. i..e. it is not improved.
Correct. It lasted over 10 years, so hopefully, I get another 10. The car will probably be in the junk yard by then.
U need a better scan tool to activate valve something was stuck in there it wasn’t a gasket issue good thing my hands are calibrated
Hey so I have a quick question by you not replacing the bottom one is ever going to leak or is it just the top gasket that leaks
The bottom one wasn't leaking. It didn't leak in any videos I saw either. Plus the valve cover has to come off to replace that piece. Since the valve cover wasn't leaking I didn't touch it.
@@xaviersdaddy10 cuz I am going to do the same thing as you yesterday I had my valves adjusted and they put in a new valve cover gaskets
At least this honda repair can still be done at home rather than bringing it to a shop
Honda makes the best engines with the worst everything else, lol.
O'Reilly Auto parts carries those gaskets for the spool valve I think you're less than 20 bucks
It's not the gasket that's the issue. It's the screen that inhibits oil flow through the valve and causes the code.
@@xaviersdaddy10 just reuse the factory screen after you clean it. works like a champ
The screen is attached to the gasket part. Have to use them together. Lol
@@xaviersdaddy10 not on mine
Hi I replaced an oem new valve but still getting code po3497? I am running out of solutions
Check your oil level. Do an oil change. Make sure it's oem parts. Aftermarket parts continue to throw codes sometimes.
Were you able to take care of P3497 fault code? I got the same after replacing spool valve gasket but installing it with the original filter.
me too first the car shuddered so i added oil. then after if threw that same code and added a misfire in cyclinder 4. pulled the plug it looks fine@@AntonAtan
I replace this part and the code came back . My engine has 230k miles odyssey 2010 and what I been doing is remove the oil pressure switch and clean it. Clear the code and stay off for months. I think my engine has lots of oil slugge and that's making the sensor to get clogged. I'm afraid of doing a engine flush because I think all that loose slugge will make a mess.
I just change the gaskets today I spent 21 dollars
Me paso lo mismo 😩
Hi I got my gaskets for $10 bucks on eBay and they’re Honda.
Come on, that's total BS on Honda's part making you buy the whole valve. Are there any you pull it salvage yards left???
That would just be another used gasket, probably about to start leaking.
It should be illegal not to sell just the gaskets for parts. It's total B's that Honda does this. Maintenance now days is making vehicle ownership cost prohibitive. Before I bought my 09 Ody I checked cost of yearly maintenance it was $500. In what world is that????
Yep these honda engine sucks! Especially that stupid cylinders deactivation system. 3.5L VCM. Don't ever buy. So many people have problems with these. Honda should have done recalls on these parts.
All hinda models with this engine got this problem amd the oil pressure switch failing
Hey at least you had the extra bolts. 🫤