Great informative video! You state this is a common problem when these trucks are not maintained properly. But what is the proper maintenance? I have a 2004 F250. The maintenance schedule in my owner's guide instructs to "Lubricate 4x4 hub needle bearings" every 60k miles, but it does not specify whether it is referring to the outer bearings inside the locking hub or the inner bearings that ride on the axle shaft that you discuss in this video. Does it mean both? Should the entire hub assembly be completely removed every 60k to regrease these inner bearings?
Ive replaced both wheel bearings and still have a weird grinding noise. Cant find anything rubbing together or grinding and it makes no sound while in 4x4, just while in 2WD which doesn’t make sense because the wheel bearing should be the only thing rotating if the hubs aren’t lock. I’m at a loss.
I have a 99 f250 4wd and ive gone through 4 pairs of front hubs and rotors and brakes. Idk why , it starts off sounding like my rotor is rubbing then turns into a growling sound. Then the hub fails but i never have any play in the wheel. Wtf is it lol
Question for you, i have a 99 f350 4wd w/ manual transfer case and hubs, i have replaced, wheel bearing hub, w/ timken hub, new upper and lower balljoints, big vacuum seal and smaller axle vacuum seal, however long axle shaft on passenger side has a little slop in it and have marked both sides to see if they are in deed turning in 2W, they are even though transfer case shaft does not in 2W and wheels are unlocked, I had a lockout hub come off while driving and lost it and didn't know it until i hit a bump in the road and front end of truck acted as though i was driving on a wash board, pulled over realized lockout hub on passenger side was gone , i could turn shafts by hand but werent locked, got it to a parts yard and got a used lockout hub, installed it, much better but not perfect, axle would still turn or engage while driving in 2W on interstate, so 3 miles from home i locked both hubs in 4W but left transfer case in 2W, drove much better but heavy and could tell both wheels were locked in , even put transfer case in 4W and truck drove like its supposed to in 4W, next day i installed Warn premium lock outs that i had on My Exc, everything operates locks in/out like should except 4X4 no longer lights on dash and i marked both axle shafts on both sides and their still turning in 2W , you dont feel it heavy as when hubs are locked in but you can feel the vibration somewhat of the axle rotation when it shouldnt be at all. Could it be the inner axle seals near the differential that you listed the part # for someone else? Should i just replace both axle shafts? This truck is highway driven 95% and 4X is seldom needed, but i want to fix this issue b4 it causes something worse and i dont like feeling that axle rotation, once at 70 mph it caused a hard vibration shutter like a wheel was coming off. Thanks for your video
Also just to clarify, b4 I installed the Warn lockouts , I made sure both oem lockouts were unlocked. If i turn the outter shafts by hand unlocked of course, it causes the transfer case shaft to turn, whereas b4 the Warn lockouts installed and unlocked, transfer shaft wouldn't turn
Now I understand why that needle bearing is quite small, it only supports the drive shaft/axle. The actual wheel and weight of the truck is supported by the larger bearing of the hub. going to pull the locking hub and see how the drive shaft looks. Removing the entire hub is quite a pain.
I think my shaft is bent of something. I took the locking hub off to replace it and now the bastard wont go back on. When I spin the wheel I can see that the shaft isnt center. Still tryin to get it back on
It’s probably too late for this, but if you stick the crowbar behind the wheel on the knuckle and lift the shaft it’ll align and you can put the lock hub in, obviously this should only be a temporary fix as you need to replace the seal or wheel hub, it will straighten out once you fix it
The design of this axle is part time 4 wheel drive. Most likely you will not feel it unless 4WD is on because your shafts should not be spinning in 2WD
If the internal bearing you stated that holds the weight of the vehicle is starting to bind can I tear it down and change that bearing or do I need to replace the entire hub?
Great vid. At the start there is a lot of grease/oil deposit on the lower ball joint area. Is this normal build up or seepage from the axle? I have the same build up and trying to determine the cause. Thanks
If you have oil seeping out of your axle tube down on the balljoint nut the most common problem is the inner oil seal is leaking. Here is a link to new ones. www.ebay.com/itm/361489100242 Also you will want to check your differential fluid level so you do not run out of oil.
Thank you for this video. This just stated happening to my son F350. We did not take it apart yet.
Great informative video! You state this is a common problem when these trucks are not maintained properly. But what is the proper maintenance? I have a 2004 F250. The maintenance schedule in my owner's guide instructs to "Lubricate 4x4 hub needle bearings" every 60k miles, but it does not specify whether it is referring to the outer bearings inside the locking hub or the inner bearings that ride on the axle shaft that you discuss in this video. Does it mean both? Should the entire hub assembly be completely removed every 60k to regrease these inner bearings?
Same Question... How do we keep them lubed when they are Sealed ??
You would need to remove the hub assy, Grease the bearing and then re assemble.
Ive replaced both wheel bearings and still have a weird grinding noise. Cant find anything rubbing together or grinding and it makes no sound while in 4x4, just while in 2WD which doesn’t make sense because the wheel bearing should be the only thing rotating if the hubs aren’t lock. I’m at a loss.
Give us a call and we can walk through it with you. 801-621-0091
I have a 99 f250 4wd and ive gone through 4 pairs of front hubs and rotors and brakes. Idk why , it starts off sounding like my rotor is rubbing then turns into a growling sound. Then the hub fails but i never have any play in the wheel. Wtf is it lol
Question for you, i have a 99 f350 4wd w/ manual transfer case and hubs, i have replaced, wheel bearing hub, w/ timken hub, new upper and lower balljoints, big vacuum seal and smaller axle vacuum seal, however long axle shaft on passenger side has a little slop in it and have marked both sides to see if they are in deed turning in 2W, they are even though transfer case shaft does not in 2W and wheels are unlocked, I had a lockout hub come off while driving and lost it and didn't know it until i hit a bump in the road and front end of truck acted as though i was driving on a wash board, pulled over realized lockout hub on passenger side was gone , i could turn shafts by hand but werent locked, got it to a parts yard and got a used lockout hub, installed it, much better but not perfect, axle would still turn or engage while driving in 2W on interstate, so 3 miles from home i locked both hubs in 4W but left transfer case in 2W, drove much better but heavy and could tell both wheels were locked in , even put transfer case in 4W and truck drove like its supposed to in 4W, next day i installed Warn premium lock outs that i had on My Exc, everything operates locks in/out like should except 4X4 no longer lights on dash and i marked both axle shafts on both sides and their still turning in 2W , you dont feel it heavy as when hubs are locked in but you can feel the vibration somewhat of the axle rotation when it shouldnt be at all. Could it be the inner axle seals near the differential that you listed the part # for someone else? Should i just replace both axle shafts? This truck is highway driven 95% and 4X is seldom needed, but i want to fix this issue b4 it causes something worse and i dont like feeling that axle rotation, once at 70 mph it caused a hard vibration shutter like a wheel was coming off. Thanks for your video
Also just to clarify, b4 I installed the Warn lockouts , I made sure both oem lockouts were unlocked. If i turn the outter shafts by hand unlocked of course, it causes the transfer case shaft to turn, whereas b4 the Warn lockouts installed and unlocked, transfer shaft wouldn't turn
Now I understand why that needle bearing is quite small, it only supports the drive shaft/axle. The actual wheel and weight of the truck is supported by the larger bearing of the hub. going to pull the locking hub and see how the drive shaft looks. Removing the entire hub is quite a pain.
I replaced my hubs with OEM have any luck with aftermarket hubs
I also bought a tool to set the dust seal
Great tank god bless you
the reason it's "THAT BAD" is the vacuum seal is shot to
Does a new hub assembly have the bearing in it when purchased?
Yes, the wheel hubs we sell have a new needle bearing in them.
@@VenturesTruckParts y'all sell the half shaft as well?
@@vincentwelshman8435 Yes we have anything you need for that front axle. Good used or new OEM Dana Spicer
My outer tie rod is grinding on the actual rim ????
I think my shaft is bent of something. I took the locking hub off to replace it and now the bastard wont go back on. When I spin the wheel I can see that the shaft isnt center. Still tryin to get it back on
It’s probably too late for this, but if you stick the crowbar behind the wheel on the knuckle and lift the shaft it’ll align and you can put the lock hub in, obviously this should only be a temporary fix as you need to replace the seal or wheel hub, it will straighten out once you fix it
U should have a close up on the shaft to see what tapered edge is no good.
Mine looks like that but just started only feel it in 4wd probably had 1/8 to a 1/4” of play is that the bad part?
The design of this axle is part time 4 wheel drive. Most likely you will not feel it unless 4WD is on because your shafts should not be spinning in 2WD
How do you lube that? Are there grease zirks?
The only way to lube the bearing is to remove the hub assy, grease the bearing and re assemble.
If the internal bearing you stated that holds the weight of the vehicle is starting to bind can I tear it down and change that bearing or do I need to replace the entire hub?
You will need to replace the Hub Assy. as a unit.
@@VenturesTruckParts thanks for the response.will do
Question. Can that make the tire wobble?
No. If your tire is wobbling your wheel bearings or ball joints are bad.
great video
Great vid. At the start there is a lot of grease/oil deposit on the lower ball joint area. Is this normal build up or seepage from the axle? I have the same build up and trying to determine the cause. Thanks
If you have oil seeping out of your axle tube down on the balljoint nut the most common problem is the inner oil seal is leaking. Here is a link to new ones.
www.ebay.com/itm/361489100242
Also you will want to check your differential fluid level so you do not run out of oil.
Do you do repairs for the public?
Unfortunately we do not. We only sell the parts.
When I was driving every little bump made my trunk shake until I completely stopped
Is this the cause
I was is 2w drive too
@@scorpio4992did u figure it out?
@@BenPat88 no sir haven't tried to fix it it's not mine it's a family members
@@scorpio4992cab bushing/mounts
Where is the link
See the video description.
Thank you