Not gonna lie, this was like idea #12 for stowing the table, after ideas 1 through 11 proved problematic. 🤣 Then once I got there, it seemed so stupidly obvious compared to the far more complex approaches I had been fiddling with prior. 😆
@@softroadingthewest but, you got there for what your needs are. Problem solved. On to the next one! :) Also. I love that you are honest and candid about things, and not trying to show off or be a pretender. That's why I follow you. And Casey LaDelle, and Tristen Higbee.
Great job Donald. One thing you could add for shelf rigidity is a couple of triangular pieces hinged off your under table supports that swing down against the cabinet wall when the table is deployed and fold under the table when the table is stored. It would be very stable and support a lot of weight without being bouncy.
I will agree that my ability to DIY rig stuff up has improved over the years, but I will never accept the term "professional" for drywall screw joinery. 😆 Competent hack at best. 😂
You are a scary man, Donald. I thought this up about three months ago while thinking about how I wanted to set up my own Mesa. It's a little eerie when you pop up with something I already planned. 🤔
2 options for adding support. 1 Add a chain or cable from the top storage brackets to the sides of the table at roughly 45 degrees. 2 Basically the same but with solid pieces of wood on a angle from mid way out on the tables bottom to a rail you would need to add on the wall roughly where the table ends when it’s secured to the wall. Side benefit this rail would add a good way to add more stability when stored to maybe lessen the rattling.
You definitely are whittling yourself a nice little setup. We just started looking at a camper called Vast, and love what they do with such a small space but for big dollars💸 That's one old jigsaw there I believe.
Love when the process doesn’t have a solid plan, it leads to clever ideas. The way you used the outer bolts to store the table was sick! Minimal and functional, looks great and sounds like it only took one trip to the hardware store. Always a plus! Good job sir!
If I was doing that I would have...Just kidding...Genius. The extruded aluminum hinge/brackets are amazing. Going with the 1/4" top is good. Keep it light.
Yes!!! The timing of this video is awesome. I'm trying to build a small shelf in my squaredrop to support (don't judge) a small cat litter box for when wife and I bring her along. I'm curious if you can tell me how much weight that setup will support? Great idea, and great timing.
I would not trust the rail alone for the weight of a litter box. It's a little wobbly just with my laptop computer. I think you'd definitely want to make even just a single rigid leg that you can wedge under the opposite side of the shelf from the rail, or possibly a triangular support on a hinge that swings out off the bottom of the shelf to wedge against the wall, if that makes sense. If you Google around a bit, you can see other applications of this rail material, usually in RVs, and the various additional supports that are almost always also used.
@@softroadingthewest The bummer is I can't have a leg, due to the mattress... So I'm thinking of doing a piano hinged shelf, with piano hinged shelf brackets (wish I could paste a photo). THIS seemed better, so maybe I'll utilize this for the upper shelf that will only hold a little clothing.
Yeah I can visualize what you're saying with the hinges. I mean, that's more or less what I originally planned to do, the positioning was just a problem for me. If you have room for the shelf to fold down, then having it permanently mounted on a hinge also solves the issue I ran into of how/where to store it. :-)
Nice and simple! If you find it's maybe less sturdy than you'd like, I've seen a few DIY "Lagune" style tables using copper pipe -- could be a useful way to make a more robust mount that you could also swivel around for when you want to recline on your bench and watch a video... Cheers!...from North Vancouver
Taking your best guess, without damaging your table by putting too much downward force on it, how much weight would you say it will hold without the leg support?
Another great build, thanks for sharing your real world DIY projects. For a support you should check out the tables used by TC teardrops. I will try to find a picture of mine and share with you. Thanks
Stop putting your ideas and work Down what you made is a really smart idea. I really liked how you did it and you haven't blocked any of your other drawers. The only thing i might suggest is to put that 2 or 3mm strips of fabric backed foam onto the back outer rails of the table to stop any rattling over rough terain when packed away.
If you end up finding the need for a leg of some sort, you could try to add a singular “leg” at a 45 that goes into the same I bolt that the bungie cords hook onto. Attach it to the bottom of the table with some sort of hook similar to a tent pole going onto the peg point. Really enjoying the diy build out, great work as always.
Two thoughts for supporting the table. Instead of having a vertical leg going to the floor, try a hinged leg that braces itself off the wall the when the table itself is in position. Or alternatively, repurpose those bungee cords and hook them to the top of the cabinet. Good to see your plan is coming along
Suggestion! Resist the temptation to clear out all those odd pieces of wood and odd lengths of various metals from your garage. As soon as they are gone, a use for them pops up, even though you never thought it would. This, from someone who did just that and regretted it.
What if you did some sort of cable or bungie to add support from the 2 pieces that hold the table up while in transport and attach it to the front of your table so it makes triangle connection to the back wall. Eliminating the need for a floor support
I have used the same aluminum slide to mount a table to the outside of my trailer. They work very well. I store my table under my mattress as it is thin enough.
That's a very slick solution! During my build process, I tried to mount a fold down table but it never worked out. I ended up putting one on the back of one of the large doors on the back of my canopy. It's supported by the handle and partial head of a Swiffer mop. It works very well as a support and is adjustable depending on the height of the ground outside. I still wish I have one inside so I will look into that rail system. Thanks!
A support post down to the floor may interfere with your foot-space. As a suggestion for a support for your table - Utilizing the eyebolt for your bungies, make a support post from the eyebolt, angled up to the frame of your table. With the angled support, you'll just need to make sure you clear your knees.
Great build! I love love love how you build solid functional things using ingenuity to stay on a reasonable budget. Your aluminum angle brackets and drywall screws gave me a chuckle, I built stop stick holder for the sliding glass door out of those same materials a couple weeks ago.
I always liked that Rolling Stones song, Mother's Little Helper. And when I first discovered these drywall screws as an inexperienced handyman working on my first house over 25 years ago, I quickly started calling them Father's Little Helpers. 😂
Looks great but a quick tip if you don’t mind. Glue is your friend. It will dry as strong or strong than the wood. Also drywall screws are not designed for outdoor use. I know your table is inside but moisture will cause them to rust. They will stain the wood when they rust. Better off with an exterior grade screw. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Haha, I knew someone would take issue with my techniques. :-) As I explained, the ability to disassemble is important to me - and I've done it many times. A lot of my build is made with material salvaged from previous builds I've simply taken back apart. I've never had any issues with strength. This is my 5th interior build since 2018...two in my Forester, a temporary build in my Leer topper, a more finalized build in the Leer, and then this build. I've built them all with drywall screws and never had the slightest issue with weak joints or rusting screws, even here in wet western Oregon. I re-use the screws too...when I take something apart, the screws go right back into the bins to be used again. Part of my current build may well be held together with screws I used for my first rough build in the Forester 6 years ago. :-) It would be one thing if I'd ever had any sort of problem, but it keeps working just fine so I get the positive reinforcement, LOL. They're cheap and tough (the heads don't strip out like so many other types of screws) and come in a nice variety of sizes. When I repair a chair or something that's in my house, I use more proper joinery and glue, but for my camping builds, I'll keep on rolling glue-free. :-)
You didn't miss anything, I haven't mentioned it, but I'll be talking about it in next week's video. Reign Outdoor has made some tweaks to their awning design (based in part on my feedback) and I will be testing the new version. They had an immediate need for my old awning elsewhere, so I had to take it off and ship it some weeks before the new one was ready. I have the new one in hand now and will be working this week on testing/reviewing the updated model.
Well done, Donald! Simple, effective, inexpensive...the three mantras of K.I.S.S.! I always appreciate your take on things, Donald! Have a great day, and Happy Trails to you!
very smart idea with the angle brackets and drill holes. Love it. You don't have to be a master craftsman to build things that are useful. Don't apologize to all of us internet strangers for how you do things. If it works for your needs, that is all that matters.
Dude, the little brackets that use the extra length of the bolts to hang that thing are awesome! Sometimes things just work out.
Not gonna lie, this was like idea #12 for stowing the table, after ideas 1 through 11 proved problematic. 🤣 Then once I got there, it seemed so stupidly obvious compared to the far more complex approaches I had been fiddling with prior. 😆
@@softroadingthewest but, you got there for what your needs are. Problem solved. On to the next one! :) Also. I love that you are honest and candid about things, and not trying to show off or be a pretender. That's why I follow you. And Casey LaDelle, and Tristen Higbee.
Great job Donald. One thing you could add for shelf rigidity is a couple of triangular pieces hinged off your under table supports that swing down against the cabinet wall when the table is deployed and fold under the table when the table is stored. It would be very stable and support a lot of weight without being bouncy.
Was thinking that too! A small brace would be plenty, tucked in near the cabinet and out of the way of knees and such.
Yes, this is top of my list for adding support if it proves necessary. Very simple but should be effective.
Great minds think alike. I was going to give Donald the same suggestion.
You don't give yourself enough credit Donald, you have been doing DIY for some time now so I consider you a professional. Nicely done!
I will agree that my ability to DIY rig stuff up has improved over the years, but I will never accept the term "professional" for drywall screw joinery. 😆 Competent hack at best. 😂
Ditto with what @clifford_overland says. All your projects seem to look pretty professional to me.
@@softroadingthewest 🤣🤣🤣
Great work. Making a table collapse is not the hard part - making it so it sets up again is!
I prefer good enough carpentry myself, and that’s good enough!
You are a scary man, Donald. I thought this up about three months ago while thinking about how I wanted to set up my own Mesa. It's a little eerie when you pop up with something I already planned. 🤔
Great minds, Robert. 😄 I may have got to it first, but you already knew about this product, so you were a step ahead of me. 😄
2 options for adding support.
1 Add a chain or cable from the top storage brackets to the sides of the table at roughly 45 degrees.
2 Basically the same but with solid pieces of wood on a angle from mid way out on the tables bottom to a rail you would need to add on the wall roughly where the table ends when it’s secured to the wall. Side benefit this rail would add a good way to add more stability when stored to maybe lessen the rattling.
Good morning ☕. Quite the progress Donald since your Topper investment. Thank you for sharing.
Stencil Goose or ARB on it and sell it for $1200, rinse, repeat! Kidding, love the project and your channel.
You definitely are whittling yourself a nice little setup.
We just started looking at a camper called Vast, and love what they do with such a small space but for big dollars💸
That's one old jigsaw there I believe.
Very slick Donald. It ought to serve you well
Elegant yet thrifty solution!
Great little table! Very innovative 🔨🛠️🪚👏👏👏
Nicely done Donald love the channel and keep enjoying your adventures and sharing the trips.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing. George .
Well designed project! Thanks for sharing your ideas & process.
Looks good buddy, well done
Great idea thanks Donald.
It looks like a great and simple solution. Good job.
Jason
When you’re junk pile becomes your primary build resource you have graduated to craftsman status. Throw nothing away that isn’t edible,.
Very nice!! Great idea!! 💪
Love when the process doesn’t have a solid plan, it leads to clever ideas. The way you used the outer bolts to store the table was sick! Minimal and functional, looks great and sounds like it only took one trip to the hardware store. Always a plus! Good job sir!
Awesome ideas! A small rubber grommet glued to your L brackets at the top would probably stop any rattling, but it’s probably not that important.
If I was doing that I would have...Just kidding...Genius. The extruded aluminum hinge/brackets are amazing. Going with the 1/4" top is good. Keep it light.
Budget minded DIY for the win! It looks perfect for what you need it to do. I’m all about using the resources I already have.
So, we’re all of those crows squawking in approval or giving you a hard time? 😂😂
I think they were serenading me. 🤣
Yes!!! The timing of this video is awesome. I'm trying to build a small shelf in my squaredrop to support (don't judge) a small cat litter box for when wife and I bring her along. I'm curious if you can tell me how much weight that setup will support? Great idea, and great timing.
I would not trust the rail alone for the weight of a litter box. It's a little wobbly just with my laptop computer. I think you'd definitely want to make even just a single rigid leg that you can wedge under the opposite side of the shelf from the rail, or possibly a triangular support on a hinge that swings out off the bottom of the shelf to wedge against the wall, if that makes sense. If you Google around a bit, you can see other applications of this rail material, usually in RVs, and the various additional supports that are almost always also used.
@@softroadingthewest The bummer is I can't have a leg, due to the mattress... So I'm thinking of doing a piano hinged shelf, with piano hinged shelf brackets (wish I could paste a photo). THIS seemed better, so maybe I'll utilize this for the upper shelf that will only hold a little clothing.
Yeah I can visualize what you're saying with the hinges. I mean, that's more or less what I originally planned to do, the positioning was just a problem for me. If you have room for the shelf to fold down, then having it permanently mounted on a hinge also solves the issue I ran into of how/where to store it. :-)
Thanks for the video and the Amazon link. I’ve been looking for this particular item. I’m building a small 6x10 cargo camper.
Nice and simple!
If you find it's maybe less sturdy than you'd like, I've seen a few DIY "Lagune" style tables using copper pipe -- could be a useful way to make a more robust mount that you could also swivel around for when you want to recline on your bench and watch a video...
Cheers!...from North Vancouver
Taking your best guess, without damaging your table by putting too much downward force on it, how much weight would you say it will hold without the leg support?
Another great build, thanks for sharing your real world DIY projects. For a support you should check out the tables used by TC teardrops. I will try to find a picture of mine and share with you. Thanks
Stop putting your ideas and work Down what you made is a really smart idea. I really liked how you did it and you haven't blocked any of your other drawers. The only thing i might suggest is to put that 2 or 3mm strips of fabric backed foam onto the back outer rails of the table to stop any rattling over rough terain when packed away.
Very useful, thanks! I love these inexpensive useful build videos.
If you end up finding the need for a leg of some sort, you could try to add a singular “leg” at a 45 that goes into the same I bolt that the bungie cords hook onto. Attach it to the bottom of the table with some sort of hook similar to a tent pole going onto the peg point. Really enjoying the diy build out, great work as always.
very cool idea Donald! I think it should work for what you have planned for sure.
Two thoughts for supporting the table. Instead of having a vertical leg going to the floor, try a hinged leg that braces itself off the wall the when the table itself is in position. Or alternatively, repurpose those bungee cords and hook them to the top of the cabinet. Good to see your plan is coming along
This is a pretty great DIY option fa sho! Thanks, Donald!
Suggestion! Resist the temptation to clear out all those odd pieces of wood and odd lengths of various metals from your garage. As soon as they are gone, a use for them pops up, even though you never thought it would. This, from someone who did just that and regretted it.
What if you did some sort of cable or bungie to add support from the 2 pieces that hold the table up while in transport and attach it to the front of your table so it makes triangle connection to the back wall. Eliminating the need for a floor support
I have used the same aluminum slide to mount a table to the outside of my trailer. They work very well. I store my table under my mattress as it is thin enough.
Resourceful! I like how you are so creative.👍🏻
Great work Donald, I love how your think!
No worries run what Run what you're dwrong If you can get it done
you should be an engineer for the RV industry
Excellent idea ! Looks Great !
I built it out well Donald, love the camper👍
Awesome ! Congratulations
That looks perfect! 🏆
Well done and minimal cost !
Very nice solution!
That's a very slick solution! During my build process, I tried to mount a fold down table but it never worked out. I ended up putting one on the back of one of the large doors on the back of my canopy. It's supported by the handle and partial head of a Swiffer mop. It works very well as a support and is adjustable depending on the height of the ground outside. I still wish I have one inside so I will look into that rail system. Thanks!
I absolutely LOVE that your table is supported by the partial head of a Swiffer mop. That feels verrrry much like something I would do. 😂
A support post down to the floor may interfere with your foot-space. As a suggestion for a support for your table - Utilizing the eyebolt for your bungies, make a support post from the eyebolt, angled up to the frame of your table. With the angled support, you'll just need to make sure you clear your knees.
That's a *great* idea. Definitely gonna look closer at this approach.
Great build! I love love love how you build solid functional things using ingenuity to stay on a reasonable budget.
Your aluminum angle brackets and drywall screws gave me a chuckle, I built stop stick holder for the sliding glass door out of those same materials a couple weeks ago.
I always liked that Rolling Stones song, Mother's Little Helper. And when I first discovered these drywall screws as an inexperienced handyman working on my first house over 25 years ago, I quickly started calling them Father's Little Helpers. 😂
Looks great but a quick tip if you don’t mind. Glue is your friend. It will dry as strong or strong than the wood. Also drywall screws are not designed for outdoor use. I know your table is inside but moisture will cause them to rust. They will stain the wood when they rust. Better off with an exterior grade screw. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Haha, I knew someone would take issue with my techniques. :-) As I explained, the ability to disassemble is important to me - and I've done it many times. A lot of my build is made with material salvaged from previous builds I've simply taken back apart. I've never had any issues with strength. This is my 5th interior build since 2018...two in my Forester, a temporary build in my Leer topper, a more finalized build in the Leer, and then this build. I've built them all with drywall screws and never had the slightest issue with weak joints or rusting screws, even here in wet western Oregon. I re-use the screws too...when I take something apart, the screws go right back into the bins to be used again. Part of my current build may well be held together with screws I used for my first rough build in the Forester 6 years ago. :-) It would be one thing if I'd ever had any sort of problem, but it keeps working just fine so I get the positive reinforcement, LOL. They're cheap and tough (the heads don't strip out like so many other types of screws) and come in a nice variety of sizes. When I repair a chair or something that's in my house, I use more proper joinery and glue, but for my camping builds, I'll keep on rolling glue-free. :-)
those crows hate you
Chatty birds!
I must of missed something, where did your Reign 270 awning go?
You didn't miss anything, I haven't mentioned it, but I'll be talking about it in next week's video.
Reign Outdoor has made some tweaks to their awning design (based in part on my feedback) and I will be testing the new version. They had an immediate need for my old awning elsewhere, so I had to take it off and ship it some weeks before the new one was ready. I have the new one in hand now and will be working this week on testing/reviewing the updated model.
That ingenious!
If the top section rattles too much, you could move one bungee to go up over a top corner, or add some over the top corners.
or some single sided sticky foam / rubber pads would quiet that down if needed. I use those in quiet a few projects , cheap and easy
Well done, Donald! Simple, effective, inexpensive...the three mantras of K.I.S.S.! I always appreciate your take on things, Donald! Have a great day, and Happy Trails to you!
Love this
Clever
very smart idea with the angle brackets and drill holes. Love it. You don't have to be a master craftsman to build things that are useful. Don't apologize to all of us internet strangers for how you do things. If it works for your needs, that is all that matters.
😊
Love the elegance of your choices.