Just buy xps foam at lumber yard and fiberglass both sides, that way you can fiberglass the seams and corners for strength, plus it'd be a lot cheaper.
Hey Chris , ARB use Aly extrusions on there Awnings and they do cut one horizontal hole to feed your bolts in. Also your better off not to mix alloy with any sort of steel clips just use alloy clips they will be plenty strong enough for what you want and lighter. Jon🇦🇺WA🤗🤗
Top secret tip……..any sign of galvanic corrosion can be addressed with the 400 year old remedy that pretty much everyone has forgotten about.. Lanolin!!!! Sheep grease…! In different countries it comes in different forms. From the raw product applied with a paint brush to the aerosol tin dispenser. It will universally work. Gun shops are a good place to get as that industry suffers extensively from GC. Every off roader needs a tin in the toolbox…👌🏼😊
The aluminium/plastic panel (we know it as Alupanel in the UK) is a great product AND is also available with a gloss finish on one side and matt on the other. This is great when you don't want the reflective finish, such as perhaps on a ceiling or a splashback. Gloss finish fantastic for shower cubicle lining, but don't use anything to clean it that is abrasive as the finish will quickly scratch up. I lined a shower with it and find a simple rise down and a silicone squeegee cleans it perfectly.
Amazing video. IN regards to the plastic covered aluminum not bending back.... two blocks of the correct sized wood and and blots makes an excellent press that can be repurchased or discarded when done.
11:26 the product is used here in Ireland & the UK for exterior soffit (eaves) covering. It does become brittle in extremely low temps. It’s an ideal cladding product can be glued or pinned into place. I’ve seen home owners use it on walls in high traffic areas with dogs in their hall & utility (boot) room.
Twice this week!! I like the idea of knowing different materials. At this rate your Unimog is gonna look like an Unidan Engineering project. I couldn't stop picturing that white Camper with a Costarrican Ox cart wheel painted on in. Great vid. ¡¡PURA VIDA!!
Hola amigo! That's a really nice compliment thank you, especially for us with no experience at all :) We'd love to get some art from each country we travel to, so hopefully we can add the Costarrican ox cart wheel one day!
I’m building a small overland trailer this summer. Been gathering information on materials prior to the build and your video helps, so thanks a lot. 🙏 I have to build a 7x10 and keep the box build under 800lbs. I actually am an ex professional builder turned painter/refinisher. It’s been a while since I took on a build this complex and I honestly can’t wait to get going. Trailer is in my garage now ready to go, I’m just refinishing the rims and working on my tow vehicle. I should be tarting in two weeks I think. 🚛🇨🇦🇺🇸
Thanks for the info! My small cargo trailer was about 750 pounds before my build. Steel frame with 'Z' bar studs and .025 Aluminum skin. Insulating with spray foam added structural strength great insulation and very lightweight. I used 1/2 inch expanded PVC board for cabinets to save on weight but the Thermo-Lite board looks far superior to the PVC.
It looked like a great product so I googled it also - yes, the price is ridiculous! I honestly wonder why - complex manufacturing process I guess - the base materials used dont seem expensive.~ @@eksine
👍. Look up Door Hold Back - Stainless Steel from trailer parts direct it’s spring loaded so it doesn’t stick out and will hold the door off the side so the handle won’t hit This might be a better option for your door. I can’t post the link as it blocks me
A alternative lighter and cheaper way to make aluminium frames is to use square tube available from places like Capral Aluminium WA, then buy aluminium extruded angle and cut to size like you have and then rivet the angle to the square tube. Rivet’s are cheaper, stronger and more vibration resistant than screw fasteners, that’s why aircraft frames are riveted! Great video btw👍
Great info - thanks for sharing! This is especially useful for we Aussies, as many of the products we see in other videos are not available here (or not at a reasonable price). I'm planning to use some XPS foam in my build - but it's not actually that easy to find locally, and otherwise shipping ends up making it prohibitive.
Great video Sir 👍 I found your video in my quest for materials that are not rampaging sasquatche proof but rampaging sasquatche resistant for my offroad teardrop trailer build and future Oregon wilderness area explorations 👍
Hi Chris, that ali-gloss is interesting stuff. I'm using it on my sons food truck and can imagine making a canopy out of it. Super light and strong and very affordable at under $100 for 3000 x 1200. I hope to test it against 3mm ali sheet and compare weight and strength. Top notch review! Cheers, Marty from Perth
@9:29 you can bore a shallow access hole along the length of the 80/20 to add bolts. The main drawback to this is the rare event of drilling the hole where you later need to bolt something down.
Thank you for this video. Watched it twice. You did not mention carbon fiber and I was curious why it’s not be used widely except by handful of companies
Really interesting and useful, thank you. If you were just insulating the inside of a fibreglass poptop to reduce heat gain in summer and condensation in cold weather, with adhesive-only fix, which of these products would you use? I'd value your advice. Thanks, Justin. Keep up the great videos.
There are ways to use stainless, dura Gal etc, with Ally. Boat builders have a paste that prevents reaction. Also nylon spacers. I would not pay 5 dollars for a joiner either. Before building anything it pays to look at what boat builders and aeronautical folks use first. 25 years of potholes, mud, river crossings, floods, freezing mountains and 53 degree desserts and the odd role over. Thats the real test.
Cool! Probably no risk of galvanic corrosion between the steel fasteners and the aluminium profile since it's a fairly temperature and moisture controlled environment.
What did you build your subfloor with? I was thinking of using a lightweight wood like Cypress and some regular plywood, but, if I can find a way to shed even more weight that'd be great.
Wow, that looks like a really solid build! What kind of insulation are you using? I'm planning on building a van myself, and I'm looking for any advice you can give! 💪 [10:03]
I think you guys are doing really well so far, it's a tough process if you have not done it before, sorry I didn't get to the perth show to see you, keep up the great work 👍
Guys! I have a question. It might be myth, or not, I'm unsure, but a regular fridge, to my knowledge, if moved, you have to let it sit disconnected for at least 24 hours, for the compressor to "settle" or something like that. Is it true and if it is how do you get by while driving with a fridge like that, and the doors opening up on a uneasy road? Or maybe my questions will be answered in a couple of videos down the line? Anyhow, you guys are the BOMB! a whole motivation
Hola Julián! At this stage the fridge is actually not connected. On this episode 29 at I show what we use to lock the doors, it works very well :) ruclips.net/video/qwXsfT6_Z-I/видео.html Thanks as always for watching :)
On the one hand, great topic, great products. On the other, there is not enough information. What is the R factor for the insulation panels ? Link to the products would be helpful. I could not find most of these products in the USA, based on the keywords provided.
Chris, the other main difference between extruded (XPS) and expanded polystyrene is that the expanded absorbs water and then loses all its thermal properties and the XPS also has a much higher impact resistance. Glad to here you didn't use much of the ali-gloss as it is a flammable product. Its the same type of product that was used on the facade of the building in Spencer St Melbourne that went up in flames
Thanks for that, some great info there! I’m interested in the permawood, and might end up going down this road myself! As for the extruded aluminium, I HATED working with it when building my Sim Racing Rig 😂 definitely not for me and the van!
Zinc does need to be shielded against aluminium or if the aluminium is small relatively to Zinc and in presence of common electrolyte (water or soil) aluminium will start to corrode.
@@TheOutFit that's good. I'm loving the build and look forward to every episode. I love Chris's attention to detail and and the level of professionalism you guys put into every aspect of the build. Keep it up best of luck with the rest of it. Will be watching you.
great to see someone explaining alternative to wood options. we have used Aluminium composite panel (ACP) over the years for camping solutions. T slot aluminium has advantages but can be very expensive, there are other alternatives to using it.
Great informative video, Good to reference whilst looking at options for my own truck camper set up. How do you run the wiring in the XRP wall panelling though? Did you glue that panel together yourself or am I missing something?
Hi I like your presentation on the products My husband and I are doing up a caravan my husband has taken out everything he’s gutted took the walls off insulation everything it’s just bear now. The last product you mentioned permaTimber Quick board would you think it’s a good idea to put it on the walls in the caravan. We never done this before. Susana 😊
Hi Susana if you watch our build you will see we used the boards for our wall cladding :) it's been great but you have to be careful as it is a fragile material (we have made a few holes that we have had to patch).
Hi, Love your channel. You said you weren’t happy with the service with the product regarding the fibre reinforced xps . I’m wanting to build a slide on camper and I’m wanting to know what the best company to buy from. Did you use styromax in QLD? And the the specific adhesive they use ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Todd.
XPS foam and EPS foam is not the same product, it´s the same material which is PS ( polystyrol). EPS which is the typical which crummy packaging material type is extruded with lots of air and XPS is "expanded". XPS forms a more dense water tight structure while EPS is not water tight. XPS is really not rigid though, you have to create a sandwhich plate otherwise it will not hold together. Thermal properties are fantastic, it is used in modern home insulation. However you don´t need it for the inside, it´s great for wet places, so outside. But of course yoiu can still use it inside. The T-slots are great if you work in some sort of industry, like I do in automotive industry however simple square tubing is much much cheaper and does basically the same. The T-slots can be reused with lots of different mounting options however to safe money you can simply use alu squade tubes. Also should you choose T-Slot alu profiles there are 3-4 grades of them. They get ligher and ligher and also cheaper. I used the lighest grade for my home workshop cart and it´s still plenty strong but cost about 50% less than the "normal" grade and is also way lighter. Plywood is already pretty good for many applications. It´s warm, easily worked with. No health risk. Plenty strong. Somewhat light (can be milled out etc.) So a great general purpose material. ALigloss is a pretty cool material, I have not seen that before, great idea I really like it.
That's bad advice. Stainless steel is much more reactive with aluminum than a galvanized finish. In a dry environment galvanized is just fine. Check out where these materials are on the galvanic chart. The closer the better.
You can get various fixings for the aluminium extrusion channels that still slot in after assembly you don’t have to “pre-load” them. Fortunately that problem was solved a long time ago.
i need to build a lightweight motorcycle box camper. thermo-lite dont sell in the uk. I wanted to use the FRP XPS for the whole box however the base would overhang the trailer by 1ft each side what thickness frp would be suitable for the base? If i wanted to only use cross beams what would be a better option to fix the boards onto as tbar cant end mount easy? thanks
For the T slot, what price roughly per M? I can't wait for WA to have a local supplier so I can begin a build project. Cheers for the runthrough of products
Hey man, I've noticed the Thermo-lite comes in a different brand name in North America. Do you know which particular density board you used? Is it roughly the +/- 450kg/m3? or the less dense board of around +/- 250kg/m3?
Thermolite is ridiculously expensive you couldn't use that as replacement for wood. It'd be cheaper just to use plywood and cover it with polyurethane or some kind of clear coat to water proof it sort of. Thin down the polyurethane first and coat the entire plywood you could spray it using a compressor and a spray gun and then after words use full strength polyurethane to get a thicker coat. But I just checked thermolite prices and it's sky high it's not even worth it
@@TheOutFit Marine grade plywood can be bought at the store for $75 for an 4' x 8' 3/4th in sheet, thermolite is $400-$2000 depending on the density. Marine plywood is saltwater rated. Money could be better spent elsewhere.
@@OgglyGoogly if you want super lightweight flooring use construction adhesive from tubes that look like it's for caulk. get 1/4" luan plywood, 2 of those sheets and glue them between the ridgid pink foam insulation at the hardware store. it doubles as insulation, use something thicker if you want
i use a lot of these aluminium profils in germany, ususally there are many types of sliders, some of them you can insert at any position you want. Only the heavy sliders need to be inserted before. Example: ruclips.net/video/SxUzQ1UCOdo/видео.html
The Anglo-Saxon countries still do not get how the SI works. "15 mil" doesn't mean anything, It's "milli", which means only 1/1000. It's "15 millimetres", and stop.
@@jackhides8317And with an incorrect conclusion. Most of the very rich just BUY a 60k high end trailer and are done. If making it, people usually have some interest in doing it for less cost. And buying cheap doesn’t always save you money. Like you can pay $700 for a quality vacuum cleaner that works great for 13-15 years, or pay $150 for a Walmart, Made in China, vacuum cleaner that breaks in 18 months - 2 years. Over 14 years, you will spend $700 on the “pricier” vacuum, versus 1200 DOLLARS if you keep replacing the cheap ones that break by 2 years and never works right. The more “expensive” one can save you money and time.
Just buy xps foam at lumber yard and fiberglass both sides, that way you can fiberglass the seams and corners for strength, plus it'd be a lot cheaper.
FYI, you can get drop in T-nuts for T-slot extrusions so you don't have to preload everything.
Hey Chris , ARB use Aly extrusions on there Awnings and they do cut one horizontal hole to feed your bolts in. Also your better off not to mix alloy with any sort of steel clips just use alloy clips they will be plenty strong enough for what you want and lighter. Jon🇦🇺WA🤗🤗
Top secret tip……..any sign of galvanic corrosion can be addressed with the 400 year old remedy that pretty much everyone has forgotten about..
Lanolin!!!!
Sheep grease…!
In different countries it comes in different forms.
From the raw product applied with a paint brush to the aerosol tin dispenser.
It will universally work.
Gun shops are a good place to get as that industry suffers extensively from GC.
Every off roader needs a tin in the toolbox…👌🏼😊
Fluidfilm - lanolin based anti corrosion material
The aluminium/plastic panel (we know it as Alupanel in the UK) is a great product AND is also available with a gloss finish on one side and matt on the other. This is great when you don't want the reflective finish, such as perhaps on a ceiling or a splashback. Gloss finish fantastic for shower cubicle lining, but don't use anything to clean it that is abrasive as the finish will quickly scratch up. I lined a shower with it and find a simple rise down and a silicone squeegee cleans it perfectly.
Tks so so much helpful, was looking for an alternative to build instead of wood.
Very very informative video. I’ve watched it probably 5 times the past few months while building my overland trailer
Amazing video. IN regards to the plastic covered aluminum not bending back.... two blocks of the correct sized wood and and blots makes an excellent press that can be repurchased or discarded when done.
Thank you, brilliant. We use FRP in architecture - very underrated material.
Thank you for watching Wayne. FRP is definitely a great product with many advantages!
Extraordinary way to present five products.
Thanks Dan, much appreciated!
Hiya there, where did you guys buy the FRP & XPS foam panels as well as the Thermo-lite board ? much appreciated
11:26 the product is used here in Ireland & the UK for exterior soffit (eaves) covering. It does become brittle in extremely low temps. It’s an ideal cladding product can be glued or pinned into place.
I’ve seen home owners use it on walls in high traffic areas with dogs in their hall & utility (boot) room.
Thank you so much you have no idea how useful this was for me
Thanks
Twice this week!! I like the idea of knowing different materials. At this rate your Unimog is gonna look like an Unidan Engineering project. I couldn't stop picturing that white Camper with a Costarrican Ox cart wheel painted on in. Great vid. ¡¡PURA VIDA!!
Hola amigo! That's a really nice compliment thank you, especially for us with no experience at all :) We'd love to get some art from each country we travel to, so hopefully we can add the Costarrican ox cart wheel one day!
Real informative vid Chris, thank you.
These products and your research into them has been really impressive throughout your build vid series.
Thank you very much as always Brian for your support!
I’m building a small overland trailer this summer. Been gathering information on materials prior to the build and your video helps, so thanks a lot. 🙏 I have to build a 7x10 and keep the box build under 800lbs. I actually am an ex professional builder turned painter/refinisher. It’s been a while since I took on a build this complex and I honestly can’t wait to get going. Trailer is in my garage now ready to go, I’m just refinishing the rims and working on my tow vehicle. I should be tarting in two weeks I think. 🚛🇨🇦🇺🇸
Great real world honest product info, well done
Thank you very much Sean!
very good your videos. I'm building a camper and the information is very important.
thanks for the time super helpful. cant waight to try and build utv camping trailer
Thanks for the info! My small cargo trailer was about 750 pounds before my build. Steel frame with 'Z' bar studs and .025 Aluminum skin. Insulating with spray foam added structural strength great insulation and very lightweight. I used 1/2 inch expanded PVC board for cabinets to save on weight but the Thermo-Lite board looks far superior to the PVC.
Don't even think about it that thermolite board is astronomically expensive you might as well just make your cabinets out of gold
It looked like a great product so I googled it also - yes, the price is ridiculous! I honestly wonder why - complex manufacturing process I guess - the base materials used dont seem expensive.~ @@eksine
👍. Look up Door Hold Back - Stainless Steel from trailer parts direct it’s spring loaded so it doesn’t stick out and will hold the door off the side so the handle won’t hit
This might be a better option for your door. I can’t post the link as it blocks me
Thanks for sharing Barry, we'll look it up!
Therma light boards.
Good with adhesive. Also known as elephants skin. Exceptionally strong.
Crazy expensive
A alternative lighter and cheaper way to make aluminium frames is to use square tube available from places like Capral Aluminium WA, then buy aluminium extruded angle and cut to size like you have and then rivet the angle to the square tube.
Rivet’s are cheaper, stronger and more vibration resistant than screw fasteners, that’s why aircraft frames are riveted!
Great video btw👍
Weld it.
@@richardvalitalo3670 Yes but not everyone has the equipment and ability to weld aluminium.
We finally found t-slot extrusion in Perth! Have been looking everywhere
Great info - thanks for sharing! This is especially useful for we Aussies, as many of the products we see in other videos are not available here (or not at a reasonable price).
I'm planning to use some XPS foam in my build - but it's not actually that easy to find locally, and otherwise shipping ends up making it prohibitive.
thank you for detail video as great watching
Thanks for watching Robert!
Very informative. Your review of the various products used in your build will definitely assist me. Thanks for the content, Cheers
Valuable info, well delivered, thanks
Thanks I been looking for materials like this to build drawings in the back of my ute, B
Fantastic presentation, very well done!!!
Honeycomb panels, aluminium, light plywood held together with lots of rivets, rivnuts and glue =) Trust me I am an engineer.
You are FAS! Lol
Thank you for the video. Very informative.
Thanks for watching Ed!
Fantastic, thanks
Great video Sir 👍 I found your video in my quest for materials that are not rampaging sasquatche proof but rampaging sasquatche resistant for my offroad teardrop trailer build and future Oregon wilderness area explorations 👍
thank you . very informative. i wish somebody would do the same video but in england!
Hi Chris, that ali-gloss is interesting stuff. I'm using it on my sons food truck and can imagine making a canopy out of it. Super light and strong and very affordable at under $100 for 3000 x 1200. I hope to test it against 3mm ali sheet and compare weight and strength. Top notch review!
Cheers, Marty from Perth
Thanks for watching Marty!
Where can the ali gloss be purchased in Perth?
Great information
@@renierdebeer6425 Mulford Plastics in Balcatta for big sheets. Bunnings sell smaller bits.
@9:29 you can bore a shallow access hole along the length of the 80/20 to add bolts. The main drawback to this is the rare event of drilling the hole where you later need to bolt something down.
Or grind the bolt head so it's same size as shank on apposing sides so you can slot them in and quarter turn them to grip the extrusions
There are actually threaded inserts that can be put into the aluminum track that inserts and twists to lock into place.
Great video and product review. Very useful!
Thanks for this.
Thank you for this video. Watched it twice. You did not mention carbon fiber and I was curious why it’s not be used widely except by handful of companies
Really interesting and useful, thank you. If you were just insulating the inside of a fibreglass poptop to reduce heat gain in summer and condensation in cold weather, with adhesive-only fix, which of these products would you use? I'd value your advice. Thanks, Justin.
Keep up the great videos.
Excellent video, thank you. 🇦🇺
There are ways to use stainless, dura Gal etc, with Ally. Boat builders have a paste that prevents reaction. Also nylon spacers. I would not pay 5 dollars for a joiner either. Before building anything it pays to look at what boat builders and aeronautical folks use first. 25 years of potholes, mud, river crossings, floods, freezing mountains and 53 degree desserts and the odd role over.
Thats the real test.
Cool! Probably no risk of galvanic corrosion between the steel fasteners and the aluminium profile since it's a fairly temperature and moisture controlled environment.
Good video
You could cut a channel in it to insert the bolts
What did you build your subfloor with? I was thinking of using a lightweight wood like Cypress and some regular plywood, but, if I can find a way to shed even more weight that'd be great.
THANK'S. GOOD VID...
Wow, that looks like a really solid build! What kind of insulation are you using? I'm planning on building a van myself, and I'm looking for any advice you can give! 💪 [10:03]
I think you guys are doing really well so far, it's a tough process if you have not done it before, sorry I didn't get to the perth show to see you, keep up the great work 👍
Thank you Rick for taking the time to write such a nice comment, appreciate the support!
Great to get some actual user feedback on these products. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your very interesting, informative and helpful video. Subscribed.
Hi guys great presentation CHEERS
Thanks for watching Tony!
Cosa floor wow fancy!
Woah, bonus video!! w00t!!
30x30 aluminium extrusion is also used frame for 3d printer
Guys! I have a question.
It might be myth, or not, I'm unsure, but a regular fridge, to my knowledge, if moved, you have to let it sit disconnected for at least 24 hours, for the compressor to "settle" or something like that.
Is it true and if it is how do you get by while driving with a fridge like that, and the doors opening up on a uneasy road?
Or maybe my questions will be answered in a couple of videos down the line?
Anyhow, you guys are the BOMB! a whole motivation
Hola Julián! At this stage the fridge is actually not connected.
On this episode 29 at I show what we use to lock the doors, it works very well :) ruclips.net/video/qwXsfT6_Z-I/видео.html
Thanks as always for watching :)
Using Metal fittings with Aluminium may create a Reaction!
Thank you very much, knowledgeable man, by chance did you go to a private school? Pronunciation of words is impeccable.
Hey, Humble Road makes all his conversions with this
goods ideas !! thank you
On the one hand, great topic, great products. On the other, there is not enough information. What is the R factor for the insulation panels ? Link to the products would be helpful. I could not find most of these products in the USA, based on the keywords provided.
You might want to reconsider bolting galvanized steel to aluminum is will spontaneously corrode.
We have had no corrosion in more than a year.
Chris, the other main difference between extruded (XPS) and expanded polystyrene is that the expanded absorbs water and then loses all its thermal properties and the XPS also has a much higher impact resistance.
Glad to here you didn't use much of the ali-gloss as it is a flammable product. Its the same type of product that was used on the facade of the building in Spencer St Melbourne that went up in flames
I think that was a cheap Chinese knock off of the real stuff
Well done!! What material did you use to build the cabinets? It looks great! And where to get it? Thx a lot!
Thank you! It's a birch plywood with a white film, we got it locally from Worldwide Timber Traders.
Can you make tongue and grooves in the thermalyte?
As soon as I heard the word sanding combined with “contains fiberglass” how can this not be toxic. I would use a respirator if sanding.
Thanks for that, some great info there!
I’m interested in the permawood, and might end up going down this road myself!
As for the extruded aluminium, I HATED working with it when building my Sim Racing Rig 😂 definitely not for me and the van!
Why is that?
Zinc does need to be shielded against aluminium or if the aluminium is small relatively to Zinc and in presence of common electrolyte (water or soil) aluminium will start to corrode.
Thanks for sharing this valuable information 🙏.
New subs here ❤️
Are you guys putting a brush bar of sorts round the edge of the box to protect it from over head branches and trees?
Hi Marco, yes that's that plan, we are getting some quotes at the moment.
@@TheOutFit that's good. I'm loving the build and look forward to every episode. I love Chris's attention to detail and and the level of professionalism you guys put into every aspect of the build. Keep it up best of luck with the rest of it. Will be watching you.
great to see someone explaining alternative to wood options. we have used Aluminium composite panel (ACP) over the years for camping solutions. T slot aluminium has advantages but can be very expensive, there are other alternatives to using it.
It's very expensive but really strong and relatively easy to work with once you get used to it :)
Why mention other alternatives without naming them?? What are they???
What are the alternatives?
What about the exterior?
Great informative video, Good to reference whilst looking at options for my own truck camper set up. How do you run the wiring in the XRP wall panelling though? Did you glue that panel together yourself or am I missing something?
I think they run in the joins - H style brackets etc
Hi I like your presentation on the products
My husband and I are doing up a caravan my husband has taken out everything he’s gutted took the walls off insulation everything it’s just bear now.
The last product you mentioned permaTimber Quick board would you think it’s a good idea to put it on the walls in the caravan.
We never done this before.
Susana 😊
Hi Susana if you watch our build you will see we used the boards for our wall cladding :) it's been great but you have to be careful as it is a fragile material (we have made a few holes that we have had to patch).
How could plastics and other petroleum products be better, more sustainable, and less toxic than wood? Wood products are a renewable resource.
Thanks! Very interesting stuff! Does anyone knows from where to get FRP XPS panels in Europe?
Great video, as always. Do you have links to some of these products?
Hi,
Love your channel.
You said you weren’t happy with the service with the product regarding the fibre reinforced xps .
I’m wanting to build a slide on camper and I’m wanting to know what the best company to buy from.
Did you use styromax in QLD?
And the the specific adhesive they use ?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Todd.
XPS foam and EPS foam is not the same product, it´s the same material which is PS ( polystyrol). EPS which is the typical which crummy packaging material type is extruded with lots of air and XPS is "expanded". XPS forms a more dense water tight structure while EPS is not water tight. XPS is really not rigid though, you have to create a sandwhich plate otherwise it will not hold together. Thermal properties are fantastic, it is used in modern home insulation. However you don´t need it for the inside, it´s great for wet places, so outside. But of course yoiu can still use it inside.
The T-slots are great if you work in some sort of industry, like I do in automotive industry however simple square tubing is much much cheaper and does basically the same. The T-slots can be reused with lots of different mounting options however to safe money you can simply use alu squade tubes. Also should you choose T-Slot alu profiles there are 3-4 grades of them. They get ligher and ligher and also cheaper. I used the lighest grade for my home workshop cart and it´s still plenty strong but cost about 50% less than the "normal" grade and is also way lighter.
Plywood is already pretty good for many applications. It´s warm, easily worked with. No health risk. Plenty strong. Somewhat light (can be milled out etc.) So a great general purpose material.
ALigloss is a pretty cool material, I have not seen that before, great idea I really like it.
Don't use galvanized steel with aluminium. Use only stainless steel, unless you like contact corrosion (electro chemical).
That's bad advice. Stainless steel is much more reactive with aluminum than a galvanized finish. In a dry environment galvanized is just fine. Check out where these materials are on the galvanic chart. The closer the better.
Stainless is even worse for contact with raw Aluminum
I'm interested in the FRP layer! We used XPS panels with PMF for our build.
I am really interested in this also but I am in Arizona USA. Does anyone happen to know of a supplier in my area
Where did you buy the XPS panels with the FRP skin ? Thanks Phil
You can get various fixings for the aluminium extrusion channels that still slot in after assembly you don’t have to “pre-load” them. Fortunately that problem was solved a long time ago.
Have you encountered any metal fatigue issues yet with the T Slot or fasteners rattling loose after corrugated roads ?
No we used locknuts :)
Does anyone know how to find any of this XPS with FRP sandwich material inside the United States? Can't seem to find it for sale anywhere.
Do you have any negatives with: Aluminium Tube Connectors?
Can't get this in the Us a, too busy making munitions and lining pockets
i need to build a lightweight motorcycle box camper. thermo-lite dont sell in the uk. I wanted to use the FRP XPS for the whole box however the base would overhang the trailer by 1ft each side what thickness frp would be suitable for the base? If i wanted to only use cross beams what would be a better option to fix the boards onto as tbar cant end mount easy? thanks
...quick board = ceiling liner PERMATINDER
For the T slot, what price roughly per M? I can't wait for WA to have a local supplier so I can begin a build project. Cheers for the runthrough of products
We paid $16/m (ex GST), price just went up $18/m (ex GST) for the 3030 profile.
Hey man, I've noticed the Thermo-lite comes in a different brand name in North America. Do you know which particular density board you used? Is it roughly the +/- 450kg/m3? or the less dense board of around +/- 250kg/m3?
@Seqhael What is the North American brand name? I’d like to find some.
Where can you buy the XPS panels?
Look up dricore and fibercorr as 2 brands. It's about $130 a sheet in my area
Hey just wondering where you purchased your foam panelling from? Was it out of perth
We do not recommend our supplier. Luckily there is now a new company offering the product in WA - Transition Composite Panels in Rockingham 👍
Thermolite is ridiculously expensive you couldn't use that as replacement for wood. It'd be cheaper just to use plywood and cover it with polyurethane or some kind of clear coat to water proof it sort of. Thin down the polyurethane first and coat the entire plywood you could spray it using a compressor and a spray gun and then after words use full strength polyurethane to get a thicker coat. But I just checked thermolite prices and it's sky high it's not even worth it
We are very happy with Thermolite, it was a worthy purchase.
@@TheOutFit Marine grade plywood can be bought at the store for $75 for an 4' x 8' 3/4th in sheet, thermolite is $400-$2000 depending on the density. Marine plywood is saltwater rated. Money could be better spent elsewhere.
@@eksinewhich one weighs less though
@@OgglyGoogly if you want super lightweight flooring use construction adhesive from tubes that look like it's for caulk. get 1/4" luan plywood, 2 of those sheets and glue them between the ridgid pink foam insulation at the hardware store. it doubles as insulation, use something thicker if you want
GREAT FOR MILLIONAIRES== 900 BUCKS FOR 4X8 SHEET OF FLOORING VS$48 WOOD?
i use a lot of these aluminium profils in germany, ususally there are many types of sliders, some of them you can insert at any position you want. Only the heavy sliders need to be inserted before. Example: ruclips.net/video/SxUzQ1UCOdo/видео.html
The Anglo-Saxon countries still do not get how the SI works. "15 mil" doesn't mean anything, It's "milli", which means only 1/1000. It's "15 millimetres", and stop.
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All i herd was its a little expensive ,,,,,its pricey,,,,,,it cost more then other materials ,,,,,hmmmmm so its a rich mans video .....moving on ....
Not before you wrote a negative comment though
@@jackhides8317And with an incorrect conclusion. Most of the very rich just BUY a 60k high end trailer and are done. If making it, people usually have some interest in doing it for less cost.
And buying cheap doesn’t always save you money. Like you can pay $700 for a quality vacuum cleaner that works great for 13-15 years, or pay $150 for a Walmart, Made in China, vacuum cleaner that breaks in 18 months - 2 years.
Over 14 years, you will spend $700 on the “pricier” vacuum, versus 1200 DOLLARS if you keep replacing the cheap ones that break by 2 years and never works right. The more “expensive” one can save you money and time.