Always make sure the fill plug will undo before you take the drain plug out. I found mine to have a crack almost all the way round it and needed replacing.
Good idea to make sure the fill plug is going to come out before draining the oil. It's a real pain to drain the oil only to find the fill plug isn't going to come out without destroying it. Enjoying this series a lot.
I find it easier to have a clear plastic tube on the end of the funnel. Qty. is about 150ml on the 1100/1100A. You shouldn't need to remove the muffler for this but then mine still has OEM. As with an engine oil change I warm the final drive oil (there's no oil in the shaft section) before draining it. Oh! applies to the ST1300 as well.
Thanks Colin, i will be , but its in for its MOT this week, so want to get that out of the way, got a few bits to do on one of my other bikes then i will be back on the ST
First off thanks for the amazing videos Colin, will by really helpful when I get my bike on the ramp.. it has been stood for about 4 years... one question is since its been stood for a long time should I drain the engine oil and change the filter before I attempt to start the bike or vice versa! Also plz any tips on what I need to do before my first attempt at starting the bike would be great. A friend told me to squrt some oil down the sparkplug chamber to lube the pistons... and I still have half a tank of fuel in the tank as well Sat from when it was last used... thanks so much in advance Colin!
Thanks, glad that they are useful, as for the oil is a catch 22, ideally you need the start the bike to get the oil moving but as its stood it really needs draining and filter change, i would change the oil first and change plugs as well. yes a few drops of oil in the chambers would help, with the plugs out give it a couple of turns on the starter, just to absorb the oil, i would replace the old fuel as well, you may need to check / drain the coolant as well, then should be ready for a start
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder Thanks so much Colin for the great advice and prompt reply... I do apologise for my late response as I only just saw your reply. Juggling work along with a 1 & 1/2 year baby girl is quite hectic... I need at least 1 energy drink a day to stay awake.. Hope to ride with you someday and if your ever in Swindon give me a shout plz... Would be a honour to meet you Colin...
using the same, new, oil i guess. before i was thinking of petrol, so its all cleaned up, bit that's not to good for the sealings i think, so is is smart to warm thing up, the new oil and perhaps the drivehousing. like handwarmish? or would just pour some fresh oil a few sips at a time. thanks R-A. :D
Definitely. Would refill it with fresh oil, run it in gear with the bike on central stand. That would give a really good clean of the gears and inside the gear casing. Then drain it and new oil in. It is worth the time and little expense on the oil used for flushing. Cheers, Raz
Salve, sto cercando di sostituire l'acqua del radiatore della mia ST 1100 a non riesco ad individuare la po.pa dell' acqua per poter effettuare lo scarico dell'acqua, me lho potresti indicare , grazie
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder When I go on the bike suddenly the power is cut off but it is not turned off, the TCS light goes on and the motorcycle continues to walk. What can be?
Thanks, there could be a few reasons, have you had any work done on the brakes ? is there the normal whirr of the ABS pulse motor ? check the ABS fuse - replace if blown Turning TCS off may cure this. The problem fault code should reveal that the possibly rear sensor is at fault. clear the code from memory, see below A new sensor costs about £199.and a local dealer will charge approx £235 for 5 hours of fault finding work, some other Pan owners have had similar experiences. If there is a fault in the ABS system, the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will store the appropriate fault code in its memory. In fact it stores the last two fault codes. You can find out what the fault is by following the procedure described below. To recover the fault code Turn ignition off Hold down the ABS/TCS indicator light switch below the left hand fairing pocket. Turn on the ignition while keeping the switch held down and watch the ABS warning light on the dash. Note that the warning light has a wider lens beneath which are two bulbs. In my case, the left hand bulb lights at this point, the right hand bulb remains off. After about 5 seconds, the warning light goes off. At this point (within 1 second), release the warning light switch. The ABS warning light should begin to flash. The flashes consist of one long flash, followed by a number of short flashes. Count the number of short flashes. Do not press the warning light switch again, unless you wish to clear the problem codes. Instead, turn the ignition off. This leaves the same problem codes in memory. Note that the system will cycle through two sequences and then repeat. eg (using FLASH to indicate a long flash) FLASH flash flash flash flash FLASH flash flash FLASH flash flash flash flash FLASH flash flash Indicates that the two fault codes are 4 (the most recent fault) and 2 (the previous fault). To clear the fault codes: Follow the procedure above to retrieve the problem codes. Press the ABS / TCS indicator light switch while the indicator light is flashing. In my case (different from the info given in the official Honda workshop manual), both ABS lights illuminated at this point. It seems that when the system is in fault diagnosis mode, only the left bulb of the two is lit. What the Fault Codes Mean (1996 and onward). Faulty front modulator crank angle sensor system Faulty rear modulator crank angle sensor system Faulty front modulator control motor system Faulty rear modulator control motor system Faulty front wheel speed sensor system Faulty rear wheel speed sensor system Faulty power circuit Faulty ABS control unit (ECU) What the Manual Doesn't Tell You The ECU will record a fault if the sensors stop working during the course of riding. ie - they have been working, but then they stop working - so a fault is recorded. However, if it is a faulty sensor, the system will never store the same code again. Note that the same error code is stored if after arming itself, the system detects that one wheel is rotating faster than the other (eg wheelies, very bumpy ground, putting bike on centrestand) The ECU will not record a fault if one or both sensors is not working when you start out. On my bike the ABS and TCS lights stay on when one sensor isn't working. The system seems to be able to record a faulty sensor when it has been working and then fails during a ride. It seems in my case that it cannot detect a faulty sensor when the ignition is turned on. So - without an error code, how do you check if a sensor is faulty ? Before doing this, make sure that you have recorded the 1 or 2 codes that have been stored - because you are about to clear them from memory ! Try to retrieve the problem code as before (yes I know you've done it already. Do it again). Clear the problem code (yes - even if there wasn't a fault recorded) Do NOT turn the ignition off. At this point the lights look just like they are when you turn the ignition on - but this is not the case. Only if you have gone through the above procedure can the following test be carried out. Spin the wheel as fast as you can and watch the ABS warning light. If it flashes, the sensor is working. (nb - you will need a mirror or a friend to check this for the front wheel - the light only flashes while the wheel is in motion. The back wheel is easy, you can start the engine and slip it into gear) Sensor or Wiring ? The two sensors are interchangeable. Remove the front one, put it on the back and vice versa. If the problem stays on the same wheel, the fault is in the wiring or the ECU. If it moves with the sensor, the problem is in the sensor or connector. You need to remove various bits of fairing to get at the connector for the front sensor. It might be possible by removing just the clear screen and the plastic bits that cover the rear of the instruments - but I've not tried this. Removing the sensors. The rear one is easy. The connector is the yellow, 3 pin connector on the right of the machine, alongside the petrol tank. The front sensor connector is attached to the fairing stay on the right of the bike behind the headlights - near the ABS modulator and radiator filling cap. The front sensor cable is attached at various points with fiendish cable clips, and these have to be undone. Other observation. At this point,you may not get the yellow TCS lights to go off. Even by turning off the TCS at the switch. which suggests an ECU fault . However unplug everything to check for corrosion, and plug it all back again. after unplugging the black 16 pin and white 16 pin connectors from the ECU, waiting a while and replug them in again, this behaviour should stop. ie - the yellow ECU lights worked normally. the ECU computer might have 'crashed', and this procedure should restore it - but not guarenteed A final ponder. When the bike was crawling along at less than walking pace - the ECU thinks that one wheel was going faster than the other and consequently cuts the power. The situation never sorts itself, so power is never restored to the wheels. I hope that this information helps, you may need to purchase a secondhand working sensor, can be around £20
Always make sure the fill plug will undo before you take the drain plug out. I found mine to have a crack almost all the way round it and needed replacing.
Thanks, appreciate the comment
Good idea to make sure the fill plug is going to come out before draining the oil. It's a real pain to drain the oil only to find the fill plug isn't going to come out without destroying it. Enjoying this series a lot.
Thanks Don, glad you are enjoying it, this is the last one on the ST for a few weeks, save some pennies then i will be back on it again
Don C. Wish I'd seen this comment before I started the job...it was a buggar to get out!
Yep - that's about the same timing for me when I read the tip from somebody else lol
EXCELLENT advice!
I always change my shaft oil when I do a oil change it only takes a few ounces bought a big bottle of Lucas Oil it should last the a very long time.
Thanks for the tip, much appreciated
I find it easier to have a clear plastic tube on the end of the funnel. Qty. is about 150ml on the 1100/1100A. You shouldn't need to remove the muffler for this but then mine still has OEM. As with an engine oil change I warm the final drive oil (there's no oil in the shaft section) before draining it. Oh! applies to the ST1300 as well.
Thanks Alan, appreciate your comment and the info
Going well. Only comment I would make is to not over tighten the filler plug as they are fragile and will crack.
Thanks Edward, i was careful not to over tighten it , appreciate your comments and support
Excellent video
Glad you liked it
Thanks for the vid.
Cheers John, glad you enjoyed it
Thank you very much
Glad it helped
Looking good mate your getting there and soon be up and running are you going to do a brake fluid change as you have done everything else cheers Colin
Thanks Colin, i will be , but its in for its MOT this week, so want to get that out of the way, got a few bits to do on one of my other bikes then i will be back on the ST
First off thanks for the amazing videos Colin, will by really helpful when I get my bike on the ramp.. it has been stood for about 4 years... one question is since its been stood for a long time should I drain the engine oil and change the filter before I attempt to start the bike or vice versa! Also plz any tips on what I need to do before my first attempt at starting the bike would be great. A friend told me to squrt some oil down the sparkplug chamber to lube the pistons... and I still have half a tank of fuel in the tank as well Sat from when it was last used... thanks so much in advance Colin!
Thanks, glad that they are useful, as for the oil is a catch 22, ideally you need the start the bike to get the oil moving but as its stood it really needs draining and filter change, i would change the oil first and change plugs as well. yes a few drops of oil in the chambers would help, with the plugs out give it a couple of turns on the starter, just to absorb the oil, i would replace the old fuel as well, you may need to check / drain the coolant as well, then should be ready for a start
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder Thanks so much Colin for the great advice and prompt reply... I do apologise for my late response as I only just saw your reply. Juggling work along with a 1 & 1/2 year baby girl is quite hectic... I need at least 1 energy drink a day to stay awake.. Hope to ride with you someday and if your ever in Swindon give me a shout plz... Would be a honour to meet you Colin...
@@joeferns1980 Will let you know if i am ever up that way, Thanks (my name is Keith not Colin)
I would flush the house with a litlle oil before I plugg the drainhole. As I`ll when I change oil on motor or anything else.
Cheers Rolf, appreciate the advice , i'm new to ST's so learning as i go
using the same, new, oil i guess. before i was thinking of petrol, so its all cleaned up, bit that's not to good for the sealings i think, so is is smart to warm thing up, the new oil and perhaps the drivehousing. like handwarmish?
or would just pour some fresh oil a few sips at a time. thanks R-A. :D
Definitely. Would refill it with fresh oil, run it in gear with the bike on central stand. That would give a really good clean of the gears and inside the gear casing. Then drain it and new oil in. It is worth the time and little expense on the oil used for flushing. Cheers, Raz
Salve, sto cercando di sostituire l'acqua del radiatore della mia ST 1100 a non riesco ad individuare la po.pa dell' acqua per poter effettuare lo scarico dell'acqua, me lho potresti indicare , grazie
Thank you Paolo. this is a link to my ST1100 playlist covering all the work i have done
ruclips.net/p/PLbll7FRgGPHakThTyyvqVloHuDhY31wW6
The print on the final drive case says to use SAE 80 Hypoid gear oil. I can’t find any. What is the best substitute?
Hello Julio, this is what i used www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/ro-gaxs75
great job friend
Thank you! Cheers!
Just wondering is it advisable to "warm" the gear oil before changing it (just like engine oil) by taking the bike for a short spin?
Thanks for your comment, unsure as not tried, but can't see it would do any harm
are the washers crushable and where did you get them from
Thanks John, remembering back i believe yes they were and came Fowlers in Bristol
Do you know where I can find 4 carburettor boots, for when I re install the carbs
@@virtuosomuso Try Wemoto.com
Easiest job on the whole bike.
Cheers, i think it was the cheapest as well
Could advise what oil you used
Thanks Malcolm, i used Rock Oil guardian 10w40 semi synthetic, use it it all my bikes
How did that work out? The case says to “USE HYPOID GEAR OIL SAE 80”. I can’t find any. Will GL-5 80W90 work?
I have a problem with the tcs, where can I start looking? Thanks
Thanks for your comment, can you give me a little more info ? has i stopped working ?
@@TheAmateurBikeBuilder When I go on the bike suddenly the power is cut off but it is not turned off, the TCS light goes on and the motorcycle continues to walk. What can be?
Thanks, there could be a few reasons, have you had any work done on the brakes ? is there the normal whirr of the ABS pulse motor ? check the ABS fuse - replace if blown
Turning TCS off may cure this. The problem fault code should reveal that the possibly rear sensor is at fault. clear the code from memory, see below
A new sensor costs about £199.and a local dealer will charge approx £235 for 5 hours of fault finding work, some other Pan owners have had similar experiences.
If there is a fault in the ABS system, the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will store the appropriate fault code in its memory. In fact it stores the last two fault codes. You can find out what the fault is by following the procedure described below.
To recover the fault code
Turn ignition off
Hold down the ABS/TCS indicator light switch below the left hand fairing pocket.
Turn on the ignition while keeping the switch held down and watch the ABS warning light on the dash.
Note that the warning light has a wider lens beneath which are two bulbs. In my case, the left hand bulb lights at this point, the right hand bulb remains off.
After about 5 seconds, the warning light goes off. At this point (within 1 second), release the warning light switch. The ABS warning light should begin to flash.
The flashes consist of one long flash, followed by a number of short flashes. Count the number of short flashes.
Do not press the warning light switch again, unless you wish to clear the problem codes. Instead, turn the ignition off. This leaves the same problem codes in memory.
Note that the system will cycle through two sequences and then repeat.
eg (using FLASH to indicate a long flash)
FLASH flash flash flash flash
FLASH flash flash
FLASH flash flash flash flash
FLASH flash flash
Indicates that the two fault codes are 4 (the most recent fault) and 2 (the previous fault).
To clear the fault codes:
Follow the procedure above to retrieve the problem codes.
Press the ABS / TCS indicator light switch while the indicator light is flashing.
In my case (different from the info given in the official Honda workshop manual), both ABS lights illuminated at this point. It seems that when the system is in fault diagnosis mode, only the left bulb of the two is lit.
What the Fault Codes Mean (1996 and onward).
Faulty front modulator crank angle sensor system
Faulty rear modulator crank angle sensor system
Faulty front modulator control motor system
Faulty rear modulator control motor system
Faulty front wheel speed sensor system
Faulty rear wheel speed sensor system
Faulty power circuit
Faulty ABS control unit (ECU)
What the Manual Doesn't Tell You
The ECU will record a fault if the sensors stop working during the course of riding.
ie - they have been working, but then they stop working - so a fault is recorded. However, if it is a faulty sensor, the system will never store the same code again.
Note that the same error code is stored if after arming itself, the system detects that one wheel is rotating faster than the other (eg wheelies, very bumpy ground, putting bike on centrestand)
The ECU will not record a fault if one or both sensors is not working when you start out.
On my bike the ABS and TCS lights stay on when one sensor isn't working. The system seems to be able to record a faulty sensor when it has been working and then fails during a ride. It seems in my case that it cannot detect a faulty sensor when the ignition is turned on.
So - without an error code, how do you check if a sensor is faulty ?
Before doing this, make sure that you have recorded the 1 or 2 codes that have been stored - because you are about to clear them from memory !
Try to retrieve the problem code as before (yes I know you've done it already. Do it again).
Clear the problem code (yes - even if there wasn't a fault recorded)
Do NOT turn the ignition off.
At this point the lights look just like they are when you turn the ignition on - but this is not the case. Only if you have gone through the above procedure can the following test be carried out.
Spin the wheel as fast as you can and watch the ABS warning light. If it flashes, the sensor is working. (nb - you will need a mirror or a friend to check this for the front wheel - the light only flashes while the wheel is in motion. The back wheel is easy, you can start the engine and slip it into gear)
Sensor or Wiring ?
The two sensors are interchangeable. Remove the front one, put it on the back and vice versa.
If the problem stays on the same wheel, the fault is in the wiring or the ECU. If it moves with the sensor, the problem is in the sensor or connector.
You need to remove various bits of fairing to get at the connector for the front sensor. It might be possible by removing just the clear screen and the plastic bits that cover the rear of the instruments - but I've not tried this.
Removing the sensors.
The rear one is easy. The connector is the yellow, 3 pin connector on the right of the machine, alongside the petrol tank. The front sensor connector is attached to the fairing stay on the right of the bike behind the headlights - near the ABS modulator and radiator filling cap. The front sensor cable is attached at various points with fiendish cable clips, and these have to be undone.
Other observation.
At this point,you may not get the yellow TCS lights to go off. Even by turning off the TCS at the switch. which suggests an ECU fault . However unplug everything to check for corrosion, and plug it all back again. after unplugging the black 16 pin and white 16 pin connectors from the ECU, waiting a while and replug them in again, this behaviour should stop. ie - the yellow ECU lights worked normally. the ECU computer might have 'crashed', and this procedure should restore it - but not guarenteed
A final ponder.
When the bike was crawling along at less than walking pace - the ECU thinks that one wheel was going faster than the other and consequently cuts the power. The situation never sorts itself, so power is never restored to the wheels.
I hope that this information helps, you may need to purchase a secondhand working sensor, can be around £20
What oil is it
i use Rock oil Gearaxl S Final Drive and Bevel Box Synthetic Lubricant 1 Litre either 75w90 or 75w140
Thanks for the video.
Thanks Michel, You are welcome!
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!