Am back and this is still my go to video for this! :) I had issues and tracked this down again. This time, the big 14mm retailer bolt for the bottom of the caliper bracket would unscrew but not move out. Some PB blaster and about 20 minutes of working it broke it free. Thanks again for the vid.
I recommend that you follow the Owner’s Manual and Service Manual instructions (w/illustration) for removing the wheel from the final drive: pry the wheel off with a pliers handle or sumsuch through the hole in the bottom of the plastic surround. This insures the driven flange comes off with the wheel. If it stays with the final drive and its 5 fingers pull out of dampers/inserts in the wheel you won’t be able to remove the wheel from between the final drive and swingarm; until you get the fingers back in and the driven flange reseated, which can be a real bear as many STriders have found out in the last 30 years. The fellow in this video got lucky. FWIW YMMV John OoSTerhuis STOC 1058 1991 ST1100rider since 1994
I used to always use a 3/8's extra long ratchet extension on my 76 goldwing years ago to knock out the axle. Eventually if you beat on the axle for a few time's it will get the threads at the start and then you've got problems. But, still a nice and informative video. Thanks.
Great video , have you ever made one about removing the swing arm and disconnecting all the shaft and stuff? , I`m halfway through changing out the Alternator. ( Dreaded job ) Plenty of instruction online but cant find any films of undoing it all..
Yeah, on a road trip and no one had any tires along the way. Now I keep a new set at home when I travel so a friend can overnight them to me if I need a tire.
There's a detent in the axle where you tap it so that you can use a punch to push it without fear of damage to the threads. Also, most bikes will have the rear fender in place and won't come off quite as easily as shown in the video.
Gotta question..... rear tire brake was dragging, noticed inside pad was wore funny (not flat but angled) replaced brake pads, took bike for ride and it seemed worse (dragging that is) stopped and felt disc - smoking HOT!!!! Had to drive back home, didn't use rear brake on the way, looked at things when I returned home and disc still super HOT and pads wore down 90%. Put bike on center stand and, tried to screw drive pressure off pistons (brake pads) no go..... after 5-10 minutes tried again and loosened them off disc and could spin wheel then. Pushed brake again and same ole thingy....pressure isn't releasing off caliper. Thinking maybe linkage on pedal is is off adjustment (had a close call on a corner had to trust the ditch and survived) that's when this issue started. Any ideas? Thx Bill
It takes a lot longer than five minutes as you have to remove the side cases and rear mud guard before you can even start. And where's the tyre change and putting it all back together.
Er... shouldn't that be rear wheel removal? Didn't think you'd be able to remove the rear tire in 5 minutes. I use a rubber/nylon hammer to tap the axle out.
now go to the back of the class. its spelt TYRE, I don't care if your born in the USA, if you want to speak English you must spell properly.. ps its just a bit of fun , I know you cant help it
Still useful 12 years later. Thanks!!
Am back and this is still my go to video for this! :) I had issues and tracked this down again. This time, the big 14mm retailer bolt for the bottom of the caliper bracket would unscrew but not move out. Some PB blaster and about 20 minutes of working it broke it free. Thanks again for the vid.
That there is actually a complete wheel you removed, not just a tire. Never the less, great guide, very clear and educational.
I recommend that you follow the Owner’s Manual and Service Manual instructions (w/illustration) for removing the wheel from the final drive: pry the wheel off with a pliers handle or sumsuch through the hole in the bottom of the plastic surround. This insures the driven flange comes off with the wheel. If it stays with the final drive and its 5 fingers pull out of dampers/inserts in the wheel you won’t be able to remove the wheel from between the final drive and swingarm; until you get the fingers back in and the driven flange reseated, which can be a real bear as many STriders have found out in the last 30 years. The fellow in this video got lucky. FWIW YMMV
John OoSTerhuis STOC 1058 1991 ST1100rider since 1994
Thank you John because this video does not mention that, and it's crucial.
Nice clue on the direction of travel. Thanks for taking the time to film this.
I AM THINKING ABOUT BUYING A ST 1100 OR 1300 YOUR WHEEL CHANGE IN 5MIN WAS REALLY GOOD. THANK YOU
I used to always use a 3/8's extra long ratchet extension on my 76 goldwing years ago to knock out the axle. Eventually if you beat on the axle for a few time's it will get the threads at the start and then you've got problems. But, still a nice and informative video.
Thanks.
Thank you so much for the video. The book doesn't go into detail. You saved me.
The hundred bucks I will not spend ! Much appreciated post !
thanks, it was nice to see how easy it is with Kardan. I only had bikes with chains before and it was just taking sooo long to get the tire out!
Handy vid, will be taking my wheel off soon to fit a mudguard extension to stop crap getting all over the swing arm. Thanks Geoff...
Great but on my one the drive plate always sticks to the drive unit which is a nightmare!
quick comment, leave the 27mm on just so the thread of the axle is unexposed or use a plastic hammer instead of steel
Really useful, easy to understand video. 10/10
Can you please assist me with the measurements of the axle spacer? I lost mine and in my country couldn't find a replacement
Nice thanks just getting my 2001 back on the road 5k original miles. Needs new tires
Where is the video for putting the wheel back on?
Great job on wheel removal good detail instructions.
Thanks for your instruction, really helpful! Thanks mate. 👌
shouldn't that be rear wheel removal?
The Brits would call that bike, " Knackered "
Great video , have you ever made one about removing the swing arm and disconnecting all the shaft and stuff? , I`m halfway through changing out the Alternator. ( Dreaded job ) Plenty of instruction online but cant find any films of undoing it all..
Fantastic video
What about back mud gard
Doing this right now. Thanks.
SICK, got new Metzs yesterday, had NO idea how to do his...
Nicely done
You were driving on THAT? Yikes....
Yeah, on a road trip and no one had any tires along the way. Now I keep a new set at home when I travel so a friend can overnight them to me if I need a tire.
@@SoundandLightTechnicians You sir, are a smart man!
There's a detent in the axle where you tap it so that you can use a punch to push it without fear of damage to the threads. Also, most bikes will have the rear fender in place and won't come off quite as easily as shown in the video.
Yeah, better add some time for that.
That was my beef - for us not-too-savvy it would have helped to mention taking the lower fender off first, but you did get me to the 90%.
Gotta question..... rear tire brake was dragging, noticed inside pad was wore funny (not flat but angled) replaced brake pads, took bike for ride and it seemed worse (dragging that is) stopped and felt disc - smoking HOT!!!! Had to drive back home, didn't use rear brake on the way, looked at things when I returned home and disc still super HOT and pads wore down 90%. Put bike on center stand and, tried to screw drive pressure off pistons (brake pads) no go..... after 5-10 minutes tried again and loosened them off disc and could spin wheel then. Pushed brake again and same ole thingy....pressure isn't releasing off caliper. Thinking maybe linkage on pedal is is off adjustment (had a close call on a corner had to trust the ditch and survived) that's when this issue started. Any ideas?
Thx
Bill
Sorry that this is 3 years late but I had the same problem. It's a seized pistion in the caliper
Very helpful video. Thanks.
Thanks really helpful and clear vid!
Sam Hall I just uploaded a video for brake pads.
HI!How many kilometers or miles have you done with that tire?I have an st too and i wonder..thx
It takes a lot longer than five minutes as you have to remove the side cases and rear mud guard before you can even start. And where's the tyre change and putting it all back together.
Undo the bottom shock bolt
Good idea marking the direction of travel on the wheel.
Thank you very much!
Godspeed brother
I've watched a couple of your videos, and you have some good tips. But, just where were you riding to get that bike so freakin dirty ?
Have to remove back partial fender ..
It's a wheel ,
It has been 5 minutes and the tire has still not been removed - from the rim.
Awesome vid.....thanks!
Thanks bro!
nice video! man thats not bad to do at all!
Er... shouldn't that be rear wheel removal? Didn't think you'd be able to remove the rear tire in 5 minutes. I use a rubber/nylon hammer to tap the axle out.
Nice "how to". Good job!
Thanks bro...
not the tire and the wheel
ST1100 and a tyre like that, shocking wear
Cheers 👍
Thanks man.
Rear wheel removal.
Thanks realy
Uhh, you removed the wheel not the tire derp.
Hello, kitty!
now go to the back of the class. its spelt TYRE, I don't care if your born in the USA, if you want to speak English you must spell properly.. ps its just a bit of fun , I know you cant help it