@@ModernUkrainianHomestead there are a lot of DIY's but only few are having real time experience of Wind turbine generation you could be a genuine & reliable person for it's review as you have both renewable energy sourses.. Kindly make a video on power generation comparison like days of peak solar power moderate days of solar & least power generation (in winter or cloudy days) similarly the peak wind power generation in high moderate & least wind days... It would be extremely beneficial for other DIY's....
yes, I'll do this stats. It makes sense to compare 1 kW of solar nominal and 1 kW of wind nominal power through the November - February months. As all other month there is more than enough solar, and wind will never outpace solar in March-October in my area. But please bear in mind, I live in a continental area where the winds are not that strong. If you live by the sea or ocean - the wind power is way-way-way more there and I can even image how my wind turbines would show themselves there.
Very impressive production in such small wind, I think my stand would struggle with the 2.2m so giong to put on the 1.9m, but will it have the torque to turn to 120v ! I would have a 700w generator spare and a retek body spare, feel an adaptor plate coming on ! and it has bushes. at 20m apart gives me a straighter charge current upto 44mph from the south west
well, there is no chance to get same output on same wind from the smaller diameter. absolutely no chance. however, if I were you, I'd not go smaller, I'd go a bit bigger. Instead of -0.3 m in diameter - go for +0.3 m in diameter. it will start earlier, it will spin about as fast, and if you can adjust a controller to start charging form a lower voltage (or just find one that boosts early) - you will actually even benefit from a bigger diameter.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Hum, I do have a set of the rentek wider blades at 1.9m, completely different flange though, could be worth adapting. An alternative to 20m apart wind turbine generators ! capacitors, sore a charge controller with 20+ round tubes in on youtube and didnt know why for a few hours and now its suddenly just sunk in, they would boost when wind turbine stall accurse, thank you Elvis is in the building
I will do, all depends on if i can get 6m bolt extension on the I700 aluminium body, dont think I'll be unscrewing stainless steel out of aluminium after 3 years, watched (watts and toys) he disassembled the hole turbine and greased up the 6m before installing, wish id of done that now.
To much difference in blades set to adapt. got those 6m out of the i700 body i2000 fits well, i700 not to much adapting for rentek body. Yeah so 20+ capacitors all set to boost on every voltage drop ! voltage and a half drop from 56v to 46v at 120v i2000 peak production voltage, So a big gust would charge up capacitors at current voltage and then release when stalling straightning out charge curve.
actually 3.2 already shakes a tower a bit already, and the winds are not that strong these days. So i think really, somewhere up to 2.5 in dia - would be exactly comfortable for the towers. 3.2 is temporarily there, I'm not comfortable leaving it on that place at the time. my bigger triangular tower is getting rebuilt already, we've dismantled it partially - so after modifications - that would be the place for FT-2000L2 to sit.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I tried to send you a video of the ones where I live. if you search for stormy down wind turbines you will see them, the blades nearly touch the floor when they spin.
yes, I just have to wait until autumn, no strong winds usually until October, and August is the most wind quiet wind in my case at all. that's why it is a good time to test and play now, to get fully ready for the production time.
I can understand that having this in Ukraine is a plus when you have power shortages. In countries with stable power supply its better to invest that money in home made lifepo4 storagre and PV (16kwh = around 900 $ with JK BMS, PV is cheap now). Then you stay mostly off grid for 9-10 months and move to grid only for mid november to mid february. PV is +/- 4-5 times more cost effecticve than wind (small turbines). You use battery during the night and have backup power for home in case of power shortages.
I've seen the odd comment on these types of videos suggesting that the old PWM type controllers do a far better job than MPPTs Their logic seems to be MPPT wastes far to much energy trying to track such a small variable input Can't validate it but a video with a IRT comparison (one MPPT,one PWM) maybe worth consideration, particularly at your average wind speed condition 🤔
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead yes that seems to be along the line of the comments ive seen, they use the first 5-10% power generated just tracking power curves hunting maximum efficiency PWMs don't do that but won't be as efficient in good steady wind Might be worth just setting up a manual change over switch just to test it By maximizing low wind / high value electricity instead of hunting maximum production/low value (which you'll never beat the big boys) might be worth exploring
сподіваюсь у вас система на 48 вольт? якщо так - тоді два варіанти: 1. вітряк на 48 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем boost 2. вітряк на 96 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем buck
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
most people have no idea how "random" the wind actually is , cheers, have a nice weekend.
oh, hell it is )
it was saying 4-5 m/s in the Windy forecast, but actually shoot 8-9m/s few times during that day as well.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead there are a lot of DIY's but only few are having real time experience of Wind turbine generation you could be a genuine & reliable person for it's review as you have both renewable energy sourses..
Kindly make a video on power generation comparison like days of peak solar power moderate days of solar & least power generation (in winter or cloudy days) similarly the peak wind power generation in high moderate & least wind days... It would be extremely beneficial for other DIY's....
yes, I'll do this stats. It makes sense to compare 1 kW of solar nominal and 1 kW of wind nominal power through the November - February months. As all other month there is more than enough solar, and wind will never outpace solar in March-October in my area. But please bear in mind, I live in a continental area where the winds are not that strong. If you live by the sea or ocean - the wind power is way-way-way more there and I can even image how my wind turbines would show themselves there.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Thanks for the reply , it looks like you've got it all setup properly , cheers from UK.
Very impressive production in such small wind, I think my stand would struggle with the 2.2m so giong to put on the 1.9m, but will it have the torque to turn to 120v ! I would have a 700w generator spare and a retek body spare, feel an adaptor plate coming on ! and it has bushes. at 20m apart gives me a straighter charge current upto 44mph from the south west
well, there is no chance to get same output on same wind from the smaller diameter. absolutely no chance. however, if I were you, I'd not go smaller, I'd go a bit bigger. Instead of -0.3 m in diameter - go for +0.3 m in diameter. it will start earlier, it will spin about as fast, and if you can adjust a controller to start charging form a lower voltage (or just find one that boosts early) - you will actually even benefit from a bigger diameter.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Hum, I do have a set of the rentek wider blades at 1.9m, completely different flange though, could be worth adapting. An alternative to 20m apart wind turbine generators ! capacitors, sore a charge controller with 20+ round tubes in on youtube and didnt know why for a few hours and now its suddenly just sunk in, they would boost when wind turbine stall accurse, thank you Elvis is in the building
well, if you have them - try both sets of blades, and compare. let me know what the results will be in the end.
I will do, all depends on if i can get 6m bolt extension on the I700 aluminium body, dont think I'll be unscrewing stainless steel out of aluminium after 3 years, watched (watts and toys) he disassembled the hole turbine and greased up the 6m before installing, wish id of done that now.
To much difference in blades set to adapt. got those 6m out of the i700 body i2000 fits well, i700 not to much adapting for rentek body. Yeah so 20+ capacitors all set to boost on every voltage drop ! voltage and a half drop from 56v to 46v at 120v i2000 peak production voltage, So a big gust would charge up capacitors at current voltage and then release when stalling straightning out charge curve.
You could have much bigger turbines on these masts, I notice in UK that the turbine blades come most of the way down the mast on the big ones.
actually 3.2 already shakes a tower a bit already, and the winds are not that strong these days. So i think really, somewhere up to 2.5 in dia - would be exactly comfortable for the towers. 3.2 is temporarily there, I'm not comfortable leaving it on that place at the time. my bigger triangular tower is getting rebuilt already, we've dismantled it partially - so after modifications - that would be the place for FT-2000L2 to sit.
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead I tried to send you a video of the ones where I live. if you search for stormy down wind turbines you will see them, the blades nearly touch the floor when they spin.
wow
You should do a similar test with higher wind I have found 18mph is very good speed.
yes, I just have to wait until autumn, no strong winds usually until October, and August is the most wind quiet wind in my case at all. that's why it is a good time to test and play now, to get fully ready for the production time.
I can understand that having this in Ukraine is a plus when you have power shortages. In countries with stable power supply its better to invest that money in home made lifepo4 storagre and PV (16kwh = around 900 $ with JK BMS, PV is cheap now). Then you stay mostly off grid for 9-10 months and move to grid only for mid november to mid february. PV is +/- 4-5 times more cost effecticve than wind (small turbines). You use battery during the night and have backup power for home in case of power shortages.
that's what I do as well. 75 kWh of storage is launched yesterday, and I will double it in a month.
I've seen the odd comment on these types of videos suggesting that the old PWM type controllers do a far better job than MPPTs
Their logic seems to be MPPT wastes far to much energy trying to track such a small variable input
Can't validate it but a video with a IRT comparison (one MPPT,one PWM) maybe worth consideration, particularly at your average wind speed condition 🤔
@@sailaway8244 not sure. I still think the best is if the controller or inverter can build its own power curve
@@ModernUkrainianHomestead yes that seems to be along the line of the comments ive seen, they use the first 5-10% power generated just tracking power curves hunting maximum efficiency
PWMs don't do that but won't be as efficient in good steady wind
Might be worth just setting up a manual change over switch just to test it
By maximizing low wind / high value electricity instead of hunting maximum production/low value (which you'll never beat the big boys) might be worth exploring
пане богдан вітряк від wuxi на яку напругу краще брати , цікавить ваша думка? по теплонасосам теж вам пораджу брав SPRSUN моноблок на 32 фреоні
сподіваюсь у вас система на 48 вольт?
якщо так - тоді два варіанти:
1. вітряк на 48 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем boost
2. вітряк на 96 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем buck