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Yes, it does. the only thing you have to consider - 3phase inverter requires 3-phase generator. single-phase inverter required single-phase generator. in both cases the best is to use either diesel or the petrol-inverter generator type. another thing - the generator has to be powerful enough to bear all the house loads and only then, the extras can go to charging the batteries. if the gen is less than the load power - it will be stopped by the inverter, since it cannot add-mix power from the batteries to it to cover some higher loads.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Have a 3 phase generator of 10kw and would like to buy the 25kw Deye and 60kw in batteries. The idea is that if the batteries are below e.g. 30% the generator will start and charge the batteries. Do you know if these high voltage Deye hybrid inverters support this setup? Thanks for your help.

off-grid inverter cannot be supplied to the GEN-port of Deye, unfortunately

well, if I was starting now, I'd not go with less than 2.0 m in diameter (that's M5 chinese model). however, if to be fully honest - rather go with the FT-2000L2 (3.2 m dia) as the first one, that one is already a good one and will get you some production.

it depends on the location for sure. local regulations matter, and matter a lot. in my place I am allowed to put anything that is below 45 m height without any building approvals or requirements. however, still, I am using the common sense safety measures - if it falls - it should not touch any building nearby, and it should lend fully on my property. These are "just in case" precautions.

yes, I am gathering some stats already. but please bear in mind - the stats will be only relevant for the continental climate, my nearest sea is 500 km away, and I live in a place where the annual average wind at 10m height is 3.6 m/s only. so for people living near the oceans, seas, big lakes - that will have no relevance. but you may check your exact situation at globalwindatlas.info, it represents the wind data quite nicely. at least the numbers I am getting correlate fully to my low annual average winds.

yes, you are the first one )

thank you. I will definitely keep it up. there is still a lot of improvements to be done

I have no idea how this can work outside in minus temperatures...

yes, I needed something cheap, since these batteries aren't ever going to be used as storage batteries, they are buffer batteries only. my main batteries are on Deye system, they are LiFePO4 of course.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead i have very good experience with used car EFB bateries, they are basically for free, often 80% of their new internal resistance, and work well in partial state of charge.

agm too, bought 100ah for like 30usd. I can sell them in recycle centre 15usd for lead.

wow, really cheap

DC braker is required only for the convenience of maintenance, or changes. you can theoretically disconnect it using the fuseholders - but you will likely catch an arc and may burn your whole box. that's where DC-switch is helpful. disconnect it - and then do whatever needed. after done - turn it back on. no arc will ever appear (since it has the arc-extinguisher built in)

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead understand. but i meant why not use only dc breaker. Fuses are kinda redundant

fuses are more reliable in terms of the critical situation. DC breaker may go over it's stated current values in general, so it is not that much reliable as the fuse is. the main goal here is to save your equipment further on the line. since the inverters in general are worth way more than the combined protection box.

you really think so? )) I'd love to visit your country sometime. I've been abroad a lot, but never been to the UK. that has to be corrected asap )

@ModernUkrainianHomestead No doubt about it, you have very good diction and depth of vocabulary. Top tip, avoid England and Wales, go straight for Ireland and Scotland. The natives are fantastic.

haha. got you! I'd definitely want to visit some Wallace places

yes, the wire thickness matters in terms of whether will it get to the stated voltage. in general - if more coil windings are there - more voltage it can achieve. but since the space is limited - more windings you can get from getting a thinner copper wire. high-voltage wind turbines (e.g. 220/240/380 VAC versions of the bigger machines) they use exactly same principle. moreover it's even harder to get the 48 or 96 V wind turbine of bigger sizes (5+ meters in diameter), since it requires to be built to withstand very high currents, which is considered not a good design in general. about these two generators I have - consider them +/- 2-5% equal. on that size the difference is minimal in real world production.

nah, just use it as it is. I mean, if you don't bother spending another $70-90 - go for the M3 blades at least for comparison ) but they are smaller, and in general will definitely be more loud than your DIY blades I believe. so if I were you - I'd not change the blades anymore. maybe think of getting it higher. as every +1 meter of height will add some nice production benefit.

@ hmm the problem with the diy - on my channel I left some shorts about how they looks like they are extremely laud when they hit 150w of production. And I am considering if they will be safe because it’s just made of pvc pipe 160mm and the pvc are fin hmmm

well, M3 blades will be also quite loud, you can hear them on some of my videos ) but yes, your concern about safety is a good one, the PVC is very thin in general (4.0 mm is the max I've seen on 160 pipe), so it definitely may catch flutter on bigger winds too. M3 blades are quite thick, they don't bend on the wind at all (that's another issue with the PVC blades in general).

@ can you tell me in grams the weight of the blade ? I have to figure out if they will be ok. Problem is with the modified generator which is holds to the body of turbine with 4 screws- little ones :) when did you added the generator had to change the thread ? I couldn’t find any screws with the tread us the original one so I just got the m6 screws and remade the thread to standard m6 size so I don’t know if this will be strong enough- the difference was one thread in 10 threads compared with the standard m6 screws

@@Poszukujac-raju I just used the thread maker to apply a new required thread and that's it. and the M3 windwheel is light enough to sit there firmly. let me find if I have ever measured its windwheel weight

on Aliexpress - with your local delivery

сподіваюсь у вас система на 48 вольт? якщо так - тоді два варіанти: 1. вітряк на 48 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем boost 2. вітряк на 96 вольт і йому в пару контролер з модулем buck

my huawei is a grid-tie inverter. and it simply cannot be used with batteries. also, huawei batteries are waaaay too expensive, there is absolutely no reason to use them. also, why I am using this setup - normally I am selling back to the grid everything I produce, but if there is no grid - I cannot sell, since the grid-tie ienverter switches off with the grid. so in that case, I am supplying it to my internal microgrid that is created by Deye hybrid inverter, so I can keep using that power for my internal use, and to also pack it also in the batteries that I have connected to my hybrid Deye. huawei is not reaching 20kW since it's a low sun, and low solar irradiation, it has got 30.33 kW of panels on itself and will work at full capacity during February-October months, of course in the sunny days. the other reason why it may not be at full capacity - Deye is limiting the input, since it can bear only a certain amount of power, that may also be the case for huawei not working at full capacity.

yes. the reason here lies in getting 30 kW total initially. so I used a combo of 20 kW grid-tie Huawei and 10 kW hybrid Deye. had to do this due to selling cap regulations. this time, since I am enhancing Deye's autonomous (not selling, just autonomous) part - I have to go with exactly the same model, that's the only reason. and who knows, I might get rid of the grid tie inverter completely, but I will have to add the third Deye then, to still have same 30 kW of selling capacity.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead selling cap regulations -- yes, that makes sense, but given the current status of the grid in The Ukraine, it would seem prudent for authorities to temporarily allow anyone who can help support the grid to do so at their highest possible level. But, I suppose the authorities are knee deep in solving the problem and figuring that another 5 to 10 or 20 or 30 kW is too small to worry about. But then, something tells me your next door neighbor would be happy to run an extension cord over the fence... Good luck to you -- and The Ukraine.

@@gerryplumley9324 well, you can't even imagine how many more solar (and wind) is installed in my country on small and medium business level, and on the households level. the tempo over the last two years is unbelievable and it keeps going. on my neighboring streets (yes, there are like 20-25 houses only there, since the location is quite new), there is no single house that has no solar installed...

yeah ) sometimes there are just friends, sometimes friends with benefits, and sometimes friends with batteries.

Ha ha ha, it has been a very none productive winter for wind and solar, so are you selling to the grid and buying back in winter ?

yes, that's the scheme that work well now, up until the end of 2029. but then... there will be times when I will be asked to pay for exporting power, so this is what I need so many batteries for - first of all to use everything for myself, next, to probably sell during evenings or nights, that's the idea

Oh right, so your going to fill your batterys up during the day sell at night when electric is more used, I understand now why you aren't bothered about tilting your pannels, as I've tilted mine and can still produce 80% of my overall power

I can't tilt to the winter angle much, sometimes the winds are way too crazy. so I used existing roofs as much as possible. and probably later on I will even use some of the panels vertically (can put them on the fence, there they may survive the winds) - to boost winter generation

SRNE just copied the outer design. internally Deye is so much different. Deye is a sole fullcycle factory, SRNE is just a brand, their stuff is produced by some other one of two invertor manufacturers in China (Deye is not in those two list, they are separate). Invertor manufacturers - I know their names, but I am not allowed to disclose them, unfortunately. But SRNE is not Deye, and has no similarities inside.

Deye can only be found via two more other brands like Sunsynk and V-Tac. But it is still Deye inside. on Sunsynk there is a different software/firmware in use, but on V-Tac it's still same Deye firmware.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead i know easun, powmr, anern, ecgsolax etc. are copies of Voltronic, Sumry, and SRNE platforms. I know Deye is above SRNE quality, but i thought srne is manufacturer, or at least trusted brand and have higher quality internal parts than lets say powmr. Good is SRNE inverters have en 62109 certification needed in eu, which other chinese knockoff dont have, and they are basically ilegal for ongrid solutions.

yes, you are thinking right. of all those mentioned except Deye - they are produced by two manufacturers (names are different though), and by certifications you can judge which ones are form one, and which ones are from the another one. Deye is separate, as they are literally Victron-like and in my personal opinion they are even way more better in many aspects if compared to Victron.

that must a cool thing to get it all up and running, I can't wait either

I won't recommend vertical, they are way worse than the horizontal ones. if both are same price - vertical will produce 20-30 times less. to make them produce same amount of power - vertical has to be 5 times heavier, bigger and will be at least 3-4 times more expensive than it's horizontal counterpart. I've tested like 3 different verticals - all are useless.

the wobble is because of the poor mounting surface. I think I will have to find a better place for it anyways. about integration to HA - can't say for sure, there are some integrations inside - with Alexa, Google, SmartThings, and IFTTT. haven't seen HA there.

I guess battery’s are ni-mh.zz

no, just standard alkaline batteries, not the rechargeable. reason - temperature differences which may make a hard time for the rechargeable batteries

That means the solar panel is just marketing?

@@albertmiky no. it uses the panel for the daytime work. the battery is applied only once there is not enough sun. all honest here, and standard batteries without sun wouldn't have lasted 14 months (as on my other station) without being changed

My solar capacity - 50.31 kW of panels My wind capacity - 4 kW of turbines november 2024 wind - 81 kWh solar - 1529 kWh consumption - 1490 kWh december 2024 wind - 90 kWh (kinda average, it's hard to get an exact value, as I've been moving around controllers a lot) solar - 415 kWh consumption - 1285 kWh January - solar will already outperform November, but the wind production will be bigger in total as well, as January is way more windy compared to Nov and Dec in my area.

also about 12V wind turbine and then ramping it up to 48 V - don't do it. it won't payoff the trick. better get a proper 48V wind turbine and a boost controller (for exampe the white-orange one I have on a self-mader WT - starts charging from 20 V already on a 48V setup) and put it on a nice height.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead stating charge from 20V for a 48V system ? how it's possible ?

boost module gives it a hand. it works as a charm. controllers in general can be of those types: 1. ballast types. battery defines the voltage starting and endind for the charge mode. old design, too short range, required crazy dumpload to hold the machine. 2. boost type PWM or MPPT - has the boosting function, I've seen controllers able to boost from 6V even for the 48V system (I will actually have one in the end of January - of course there will be a video about it). PWM or MPPT defines how it work with loading the wind turbine. is a good choice for same voltage wind turbine and battery pack (e.g. 48V and 48V, 24v and 24V). 3. buck type, again PWM or MPPT. lowers the incoming voltage form the wind turbine to charge the battery bank. for example, 96V wind turbine and 48V battery back, or 120-150 V wind turbine and 48V battery bank. PWM and MPPT - same as above - just defines the load preferences. 4. boost and buck. combines both functions, but is rarely needed. 5. on-grid controller. cannot charge the battery, is just managing transforming the power form AC to DC and manages the brakes, is suitable for high-voltage wind turbines 220/240/380 VAC. I will have one in about 4 months with the 4.0 dia wind turbine of 380VAC.

I bet this one should fit: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcAmxLr choose the white-orange one, the 24/48V version

I have tried 48v mppt wind controller and it slows down this turbine too much. Works a lot better when connected directlly to 96v e-bike battery. I even saw 1.5 - 2kw on storm wind gusts with 96v battery. But my home system is 48v so i need to find proper controller

aha, so just ask for a buck controller type. to charge your 48V battery bank. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3KW-MPPT-Wind-Solar-Hybrid-Controller_1600711508255.html same like this one, just you need the buck type (price is the same), go for the 2 kW version, it has a resistor built in. ask the seller to provide you the buck one - and that will be what is required. LHCM2-1/48 buck - is your model name needed.

good questions. for the lightning protection there are two things to be done: 1. towers must be grounded 2. there has to be a surge protection on the line from the wind turbine, before the controllers. some of the controllers have the surge protection built it, some don't, so it depends on the equipment what you should add additionally. in my cases I have got three boxes prepared with the separate surge protection before the controllers. towers are or course grounded. you can do both, same or different ground, it does not matter. our national standard allows both ways as equally usable.

​​@@ModernUkrainianHomestead thanks alot it was me who asked for this comparison kindly let me know what KP series your were talking about would you mind If share link ?

those are kPE, kPG series. 200+ kg of a wind turbine, heavy duty stuff. 4.8 meter in diameter is the smallest one in that series. this is the 10 kW kP series, for example with 5.8 dia (will reach 10 kW power at 13 m/s wind): www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Residential-Wind-Power-Generator-10KW-Wind_62068742893.html

​@@ModernUkrainianHomesteadThere are no rules in my country so I have asked two engineers and they do not agree. One says that you have to connect all the copper rods to make a network. Otherwise, when lightning hits a tower, the electricity spreads through the ground, and enters through the other copper rods and towers, even the one in the house, but in the opposite direction. If that is true, imagine the damage. Anyway, the chances of being struck by lightning are very low. Fingers crossed

@@JoseAgustin-hq2pl what matters with the lightning - is the number of ground connections and the connectivity of all of them. if you have enough earthed rods - the lightning will use all of them to hit the ground. of course they have to be connected above to the lightning receiving upper rods (or towers in wind turbine case).

the best place to buy a wind turbine - will always be a manufacturer, on Alibaba. on Aliexpress you are mainly dealing with resellers, but still, sometimes, you may get a bargain deal there, thus it is quite hard.

You’ve helped many people with this video and I’m sure 12-24&48V turbines now aren’t selling. Alibaba has its own tricks with shipping if you don’t understand incoterms but more honest with figures. AliExpress seems to be 3-4models down graded like the SL3000 is actually a SL1000 or my M8000 is a 12V M4 with a sticker on it. They agreed to pay shipping in the end.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Ali/Temu/Ali Baba. Same company been dealing with them for a while. Iv purchase extremely good quality machinery and iv received absolute junk. Trade assurance/Express guarantee means $0 they’ll refund small items sometimes give shipping labels sometimes say keep it but something like a decent battery bank or large turbine? Zilch. I’ll make a video soon of what can be expected. And yes I have picked up some bargains here and there I’ll post them too. You own one of them!

yes, almost )

all of my wind turbines currently work with the charge controllers, so all of them charge the batteries, and the grid-tie inverters drag the power out of the batteries and pass is to Deye system

things change ) also, please bear in mind, price might be different from country to country due to taxes, delivery rates, etc.

hm... if your model can work in parallel (master-slave connection between the inverters) - that's better to sit them both on the same battery bank and that will be the great system. my blues are grid-tied, that's the main difference here. the main power managing device in my case is still Deye, and it ultimately decides how to use it. in your case - both can decide, and I have no idea, how will they fight about the decision makings

yes, true. sorry for your experience, but well, what is done is done. mine is sitting still with me and reminding me always that you can't trust anyone, and you should prove everything yourself

12/24/48 - they must be different in coils in wire thickness. so 12V M3 and 48V M3 are two different wind turbines with two different generators (despite they look absolutely equal on the image). however, the thing is that 48V wind turbine can work in all three modes (thus with the reduced efficiency on 12 and 24 V systems), but the 12V wind turbine won't be able to work on 24V and on 48V systems probably at all. once you are of higher voltages, for example, if you have a 48V battery system and if you want to use 96V wind turbine - you need a specific buck controller type to make it all working as it should. controller voltage should ALWAYS match the battery (system) voltage.

it definitely is )

Impressive year recording, trying to find this years average, but all recordings have gone pay to visit I think ! Narrowed the 36 relays down to 16 or 32 relays, raspberry pi have relay capability but haven't found the program to run it, asking around IT guys, all say start from the basic ! It's not like that I need to know if it can be done on the Raspberry Pis or I will buy 36x xy-cd60's, search continues.

​@@ModernUkrainianHomestead i had requested to perform a comparison of installed wind turbines & solar panels (individual) power genration in winter & vice versa

please watch until the very end )

@@rm6857 get a buck controller to get the full power out of it - you will be impressed.

it definitely is a heavy brick )

yes it does! second can be either SIM or an SD-card

@ModernUkrainianHomestead sounds fantastic. I now need to get rid of my current phone :thinking:

yep, why not. go get this one: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_opb07rN

of course not 2000, that was clear from the very beginning ) max instant I've seen out of it was 541watts, and that is more than I expected, to be honest. monthly - least I've seen out of it was 4 kWh, max so far was 12 kWh per month. but, I don't have a lot of stable winds. they are rather moderate and still sporadical... my yearly average according to globalwindatlas.com is 3.6 m/s only at 10m height.

thank you!

yeah, almost on par )

thanks! and vice versa!

same to you my friend!

no, that's rather a small capacitor, and only one... for that class (price class first of all) of controller - it's not worth the money I'd say. LHCM or even the smaller LHCN is just so much better.

What does LHCN And LHCM stand for ? Thank you

@@HenryOwens-py3ur these are two other controllers, I'm getting one soon (LHCM) - so will show you all - the difference is just massive.

Just becarful the controller sucks more power out of the generator than it can handle. So smaller capacitors every 0.1v at 20watts say then when the voltage drops below 0.1v it releases the 20w charging the battery, so you'll never see the peak charge nor the lower wattage. Great little relay XY CD60 controlled by 48v but switch off and on a 240v 750w geroge foreman as a heater into my shed when batterys at 95% to 90% going to be a sand battery from a 1000w kettle hob and then a hot water producer. Exciting stuff

Thinking maybe the voltage spike 0.1v turns on another capacitor, storeing the 20-60watts, or you'd have 80 small capacitors all on but then you'd have all capacitors on when almost fully charged, unless 20x XY CD60 modules turn on and off every 48v too 48.5v (48v to 56v before balance acures) then 48.3v too 48.8v. 48.5v too 49v. 48.8 too 49.3 and so on, over lapping each other.

hi. well, this one has a hard limit of 450 VDC input, so calculate your array appropriately (including panels temperature coefficient as well). if your all-series connection goes over that 450VDC value - rather split the panels by half, and make two parallel arrays with half of the single-all-series-one length. the inverter can work with 27-30 Amps on solar input, no issues with that.

no, on M-series (from M2 up to M10) it is not possible to get a folding tail... fixed one only. But. I mean, seriously, M3 is a tiny wind turbine. from 1.65 meters in diameter you should not expect a lot of power. it might good one for a camper, though... in my case - I've never seen less than 4 kWh per month from it, on the other hand - I never seen more than 12 kWh per month out of it as well... size matters.

no gearbox is needed up until you reach 15 m of rotor diameter (for HAWT), and for VAWT - no vertical wind turbine is ever welcome.

@@ModernUkrainianHomestead Well, every generator has a specific rpm range where it is most efficient. The gearbox is there to get the desired RPM and then they use the pitch of the blades to increase the torque/power output. It's a clever setup, but costly to implement on small wind turbines.

yes, it makes little or no sense to be used on small wind turbines. on bigger ones - it's even rather a must have option, since there is almost no technical possibility to make a generator working stable on 15-20 rpm... it will never get the desired stable frequency - that is why gearboxes are used on commercial units.

yes, you are welcome... if you need a good controller - LHCN (PWM type) or LHCM (MPPT type) only. they are so much better. I have one LHCN used in my client's location - it's a massive difference, just so much better. LHCM - I'll show it to everybody slightly later, once it arrives.

3 kw, and up to 4.5 kW peak

@ModernUkrainianHomestead I had requested you to provide a comparison of solar & wind generation as you have a good owner experience also the best suggested wind turbine(I think M3 but you say it's custom made) also the comparison of generation of solar & wind turbine in winter & summer seaso