just assembled the c34. I have a lot of problems with c34. quality department is doing a terrible job. tyres are wobbly terrible, wheels does not fit to a 5 milimetre drive shafts, Once i put them on i have to almost destroy them to take them off. just terrible. Steering linkage came updated but assembly instructions are wrong, old. thats just basic mistake. Input gear shafts are bent and because of that drive shaft cups are wobbling. front axle is not working properly. i managed to brake in the rear one according to their instructions but the front is not possible. front input gear does not mash with differential gear at all. worst this is they know about it and offer a part that fixes it but don't include it in the packet u have to buy it separately, sad as hell... I don see how can all that be fixed, so i would like to return the product and for them to return the money to me... will see if they will refund since the car sold is faulty and simply bad. how can you support them man
I just wanted to thank you David for posting the axle link lengths. It was a lifesaver. I mounted aftermarket shocks and surprisingly your length worked well. I just changed the front bottom ones to 2.3cm but other than that all others lengths are perfect
I just finished mine went with your recommendations and it all worked out awesome they’ve come along way I like the whole see series I haven’t tried the beast series yet but I went KM with my C 14 And c34 well worth it. There’s a very small learning curve and but you can’t beat it in the hard plastic bodies are amazing my son and I have a lot of fun with them The only one we don’t have a c24 From the c series Thank you for your time and your videos you save me a lot of time to be out on the trail in the tricks of the trade that you shown us
Thats awesome! Glad you enjoy these as much as I do. They are bang for the buck fun for sure. The only RCs my wife doesnt care I have multiples of hahaha.
O man drop the WPL and run the other way! LoL its addicting and I dont even know how I got them all muhahahahha! Your gonna have a lot of fun modding these!
@Frank Blue, pay attention to this channel, Gabriel Silvaz, HobbyDaddy, you'll pick up on all the good inexpensive budget mods between the video and comment content. my own current favorite recent budget beast build is a C-14 with diff locked JJRC axles, the Fayee 6 spoke rims+tires (3/4" wider total), HobbyDaddy "just add a motor" dual 130's for power (older higher ratio black #316 gearbox). runs a fair fast walking pace with torque on tap to climb with too. total cost about 46 bucks, shocks set up loose the extra width giving more+easier flex, and much harder to tip it over sideways. it does involve little parts mods to get one together like this, but great little performer considering how inexpensive it was to slap together. YES RUN AWAY FROM THESE FAST!
Yes, BLUE Locktight. VERY important. You can get it at harbor freight for $3 for a pretty big bottle that lasts quite awhile. It's called threadlock #42. Works great. The red locktight doesn't break down and let loose until it's over 400 degrees. VERY hard to get off. The blue is thread and nut glue. Great stuff. Oh, yeah, GO Run That RC!
The included tube of the Chinese "red" threadlocker may in fact be medium strength [removable with tools], but I didn't trust it and used genuine Loctite blue because there's just no way to tell.
Hi David, have you share the same info on tuning the MN chassis in your other video? Kindly share the link or if you haven't, this is a request LOL. Thanks - you're one of my trusted references when it comes to MN and WPL.
I also like using the blue medium-strength Loctite...speaking of stripping the screws: I found that 3mm (1/8") long grub screws are much better than 1.5mm (1/16"), so I stocked up on those.
Good tips. Thanks. Gonna build mine now. So even though you didn't use the red thread lock provided with the kit, have you tried it? inspected it? Seems awfully thin and doesn't look like all the thread lock I am used to.
O man you are going to enjoy this one. All the metal parts are satisfying to put together. I dont even want to scratch the axles up but already did lol. Great truck with nostalgia for me. I used to ride in my grandfather's fj40 when i was young. Same color blue and white as well!
Great video lots of great information . Yeah I agree I always use blue loctite myself. Can't wait to see the metal gear set in the 2 speed . That's a great idea I was thinking the same thing lol though I do love my FlySky's I'm thinking of getting the wpl 4 channel transmitter, ESC ,sound unit for this one . Have you tried one yet?
yup, a 180 motor can burn the power section of the RTR board quick. luckily they're only about 5 bucks to replace. they do well with a dual N20-N30 gear motor setup, possibly a 130 motor with the lower ratio tan gearbox too. no clue if the WPL 4ch setup can feed 12-15A of current without choking or burning.
Hey bro, nice explanation on those, you make a great content. Keep it up. Btw where did you get those gears for 2 speed gearbox? Maybe some links? would be great. Thanks!
Can u make a video how do u assemble the front axle? My Pinion and gear are grinding and i don't now how to softer it... Just frustrating... By the way great video.
First I recommend taking off the 5mm hexes. Try assembling without it and see if the grinding stops. If it does it is the hexes that the wheels attach to that are causing the grinding. They will need to be installed a little less inserted to the axle shaft. Let me know if that helps.
hi, i triy to following setup link rod same as yours, but i think its still need to adjust especially when turn it kind the tire litle bit tilted. and othe issue with the front tire always come out the rim (i try to glue it now). any advise for those?
Yes if you follow the measurements it will bring you close but since all the cars have slight differences in assembly tolerances you have to change the length a little to get that perfect length. The wheels have to be clean then glued good all the way around. The tire tilt is something I deal with just to get a better driveshaft angle. You can make the wheel connecting rod longer to make that less pronounced.
I haven't used the washers lol. I didn't follow the instructions to assemble. I just use what seems to be the right length and size. That's what I like about these kits. It isn't to crucial.
really slow going with the X-acto saw blade to make C-24 hood openable... wanting the battery pack right over the front axles, if you've done the hood opening thing, you already know the "fun" involved. really can't do a tailgate delete, the floor of the bed sits too high for it to be a simple job. newer C-24 kit did come with the lower ratio tan gearbox and the brass axle bevel pinions like the C-14 did, so 2 for 2 on that now :) got pair 6v 600 rpm N20 gear motors on the way to pop into the B-1 that's getting this C-24 frame under it, moving parts around is going to be a little extra fun with putting the C-24 body onto the B-1 frame. B-1 currently has fairly fresh pair of 6v 400 rpm N20's, a bit slow... might even go tan gearbox with a 130 motor (whatever is a little faster for trail walking), the B-1 is still running its stock RTR bang-bang steering board but fed 2S 7.4v instead of 6v, the TOY board really hates trying to feed a 180 size motor. might have to upgrade it after the C-24 chassis slapped under it, lol who knows!
Are they shipping with both ring and pinion metal? Or just pinion. My b24k seems to have a great gear mesh with the plastic ring and metal pinion. No shimming or anything. Still going strong even with my semi abusive driving style lol.
It is supposed to but sometimes it is missing. They provide manuals on there website. Check it out here: www.wpl-rc.com/pages/c54-1-km-instruction-manual
It's a great idea to paint these as it removes the shiny "plasticky" toy look to them. What color is your real one? I would use a primer first, just plain enamel, then the color of your choice. Also, I *must* paint the roof, at least from the inside, in black primer, then white on both sides so sunlight doesn't shine through (the plastic is translucent) and make it look like the plastic that it is. That's my plan anyway. I'm waiting for spring weather so the paint won't take years to dry
Gear mesh problem on binding output and axle gear, i grinded the output gear tip on the inside, it is too long and hits the base of the axle gear, NO MORE BINDING, SOLVED!
The c34 axles have metal ring and pinion gears and the km version is full metal. The c14 is plastic and metal unless your lucky and get a new batch that I heard come with metal gears now too.
I don't have the measurement but I just measured the stock links and then adjusted from there if needed. Only my recent parts bin build has metal links on it and that's how I set it up.
Thanks for the support! Should I get the q65? It does look ok. I was going to purchase but the mn model mn45 was released so I got that for now. Maybe I will try and look for a good deal and get one soon!
Hi, i just assembled the c34.order 15099 I have a lot of problems with c34. quality department is doing a terrible job. tyres are wobbly terrible, wheels does not fit to a 5 milimetre drive shafts, Once i put them on i have to almost destroy them to take them off. just terrible. Steering linkage came updated but assembly instructions are wrong, old. thats just basic mistake. Input gear shafts are bent and because of that drive shaft cups are wobbling. front axle is not working properly. i managed to brake in the rear one according to instructions but the front is not possible. front input gear does not mash with differential gear at all. I don see how can all that be fixed, so i would like to return the product and them to return the money to me... 5mm hex are not 5 mm. and are bent already. is this normal? no wonder wheels dont fit.hex should be 5mm and wheels 5.07mm.they should know that. How can they sell a faulty product? I asked for my 30 day refund but nobody is answering 😮
Are you talking about the output drive gear mesh on the axle? I grinded the ouput gear tip on the inside, because it is hitting the base of the axle gear where the set screw is in. No more binding
Check out the links in the description or go straight to the official WPL RC website by clicking below:
www.wpl-rc.com/?ref=DAVIDCLARK
just assembled the c34.
I have a lot of problems with c34. quality department is doing a terrible job.
tyres are wobbly terrible, wheels does not fit to a 5 milimetre drive shafts, Once i put them on i have to almost destroy them to take them off. just terrible.
Steering linkage came updated but assembly instructions are wrong, old. thats just basic mistake.
Input gear shafts are bent and because of that drive shaft cups are wobbling.
front axle is not working properly. i managed to brake in the rear one according to their instructions but the front is not possible. front input gear does not mash with differential gear at all. worst this is they know about it and offer a part that fixes it but don't include it in the packet u have to buy it separately, sad as hell...
I don see how can all that be fixed, so i would like to return the product and for them to return the money to me... will see if they will refund since the car sold is faulty and simply bad.
how can you support them man
I just wanted to thank you David for posting the axle link lengths. It was a lifesaver. I mounted aftermarket shocks and surprisingly your length worked well. I just changed the front bottom ones to 2.3cm but other than that all others lengths are perfect
glad it helped out!
I just finished mine went with your recommendations and it all worked out awesome they’ve come along way I like the whole see series I haven’t tried the beast series yet but I went KM with my C 14 And c34 well worth it. There’s a very small learning curve and but you can’t beat it in the hard plastic bodies are amazing my son and I have a lot of fun with them The only one we don’t have a c24 From the c series Thank you for your time and your videos you save me a lot of time to be out on the trail in the tricks of the trade that you shown us
Thats awesome! Glad you enjoy these as much as I do. They are bang for the buck fun for sure. The only RCs my wife doesnt care I have multiples of hahaha.
Getting ready to start putting mine together. Thanks for the tips.
Hope it helps!
I am just getting in to the WPL models, this information may turn out to be useful. Thanks see you on your next video Robert
O man drop the WPL and run the other way! LoL its addicting and I dont even know how I got them all muhahahahha! Your gonna have a lot of fun modding these!
@Frank Blue, pay attention to this channel, Gabriel Silvaz, HobbyDaddy, you'll pick up on all the good inexpensive budget mods between the video and comment content. my own current favorite recent budget beast build is a C-14 with diff locked JJRC axles, the Fayee 6 spoke rims+tires (3/4" wider total), HobbyDaddy "just add a motor" dual 130's for power (older higher ratio black #316 gearbox). runs a fair fast walking pace with torque on tap to climb with too. total cost about 46 bucks, shocks set up loose the extra width giving more+easier flex, and much harder to tip it over sideways. it does involve little parts mods to get one together like this, but great little performer considering how inexpensive it was to slap together.
YES RUN AWAY FROM THESE FAST!
@@modelnutty6503 hahaha u tell them wassup nutty!
@@modelnutty6503 I have seen Gabriel Silvaz's channel but I cannot find HobbyDaddy. Got a link?
Great tips anyone who upgrades their wpl take notice ,took me an age to get links sorted !!!
It does take a bit to get the length right and set to where you want it.
Yes, BLUE Locktight. VERY important. You can get it at harbor freight for $3 for a pretty big bottle that lasts quite awhile. It's called threadlock #42. Works great. The red locktight doesn't break down and let loose until it's over 400 degrees. VERY hard to get off. The blue is thread and nut glue. Great stuff. Oh, yeah, GO Run That RC!
The included tube of the Chinese "red" threadlocker may in fact be medium strength [removable with tools], but I didn't trust it and used genuine Loctite blue because there's just no way to tell.
Hi David, have you share the same info on tuning the MN chassis in your other video? Kindly share the link or if you haven't, this is a request LOL. Thanks - you're one of my trusted references when it comes to MN and WPL.
not sure if this is what your looking for?
ruclips.net/video/GC9iHLLq7go/видео.html
awesome c34 km land cruiser !
can't wait to play it !!
I also like using the blue medium-strength Loctite...speaking of stripping the screws: I found that 3mm (1/8") long grub screws are much better than 1.5mm (1/16"), so I stocked up on those.
Nice! That's a good idea. Alot of room for more engagement.
this is good video on what i want to see. thanks
Good tips. Thanks. Gonna build mine now. So even though you didn't use the red thread lock provided with the kit, have you tried it? inspected it? Seems awfully thin and doesn't look like all the thread lock I am used to.
i have used the thread lock they provided. It's too strong and might even be super glue lol.
RunThatRC Thanks for the warning 🙂
Fantastic info, great useful Tips, thanks for sharing this great video bro 👍😍👍
Thanks bro! I appreciate your support!
Thanks for the tips bro 🙏 Going to be very useful once I get mine
O man you are going to enjoy this one. All the metal parts are satisfying to put together. I dont even want to scratch the axles up but already did lol. Great truck with nostalgia for me. I used to ride in my grandfather's fj40 when i was young. Same color blue and white as well!
RunThatRC just now I purchased a blue one 😄😄😄
Now just have to wait. Maybe 3 weeks
@@nhansme that's the only thing I hate is the wait! You will like it trust me
Sweet, thanks for sharing 😊👍
Thanks for watching!
Heck yeah man great content !
Thanks!
Great video lots of great information . Yeah I agree I always use blue loctite myself. Can't wait to see the metal gear set in the 2 speed . That's a great idea I was thinking the same thing lol though I do love my FlySky's I'm thinking of getting the wpl 4 channel transmitter, ESC ,sound unit for this one . Have you tried one yet?
No I have not. I seem to have bad luck with there radio gear. I had 3 now only 1 esc receiver combo works
yup, a 180 motor can burn the power section of the RTR board quick. luckily they're only about 5 bucks to replace. they do well with a dual N20-N30 gear motor setup, possibly a 130 motor with the lower ratio tan gearbox too. no clue if the WPL 4ch setup can feed 12-15A of current without choking or burning.
Rtr you look like so happy
O I am happy🤘
Hey bro, nice explanation on those, you make a great content. Keep it up.
Btw where did you get those gears for 2 speed gearbox? Maybe some links? would be great. Thanks!
I purchased the metal gears on banggood. I just type wpl in the search and scroll away! That's how I find new wpl parts that pop up.
I love your videos. What transmiter/receiver and esc you recomend to buy internet bangoog and use with c34km kit? Thanks
I like and have had good luck with the WPL V3 esc receiver combo with transmitter. works well and a lot of functions for the price.
@@RunThatRC thanks a lot. Continue with your good work.
like your videos. keep it up. don
Very helpful, thank you for the upload!
did you cut the Panhard rod? Mine seems to be too long for 2.2cm, i cannot tighten it further than 2.5cm and that is way too long
Can u make a video how do u assemble the front axle? My Pinion and gear are grinding and i don't now how to softer it... Just frustrating...
By the way great video.
First I recommend taking off the 5mm hexes. Try assembling without it and see if the grinding stops. If it does it is the hexes that the wheels attach to that are causing the grinding. They will need to be installed a little less inserted to the axle shaft. Let me know if that helps.
@@RunThatRC
Thanks a lot that was the issue so smooth now 😁 hehehe
@@PedroSilva-yv5df nice! Glad that helped.
Good video
hi, i triy to following setup link rod same as yours, but i think its still need to adjust especially when turn it kind the tire litle bit tilted. and othe issue with the front tire always come out the rim (i try to glue it now). any advise for those?
Yes if you follow the measurements it will bring you close but since all the cars have slight differences in assembly tolerances you have to change the length a little to get that perfect length. The wheels have to be clean then glued good all the way around. The tire tilt is something I deal with just to get a better driveshaft angle. You can make the wheel connecting rod longer to make that less pronounced.
@@RunThatRC noted, thanks mate
I am thinking about to upgrade the tires on my c34 , what do you suggest to upgrade it thank you
I have only used the RTR and kit tires. Also the mn model tires work. I know RC4WD has some 1 inch tires for sale but I have no experience with them.
@@RunThatRC thanks
Having a hard time figuring out the difference between body screws 1x4 and 2x4 and 1x2. There are 3 bags of screws and some have washers.
I haven't used the washers lol. I didn't follow the instructions to assemble. I just use what seems to be the right length and size. That's what I like about these kits. It isn't to crucial.
really slow going with the X-acto saw blade to make C-24 hood openable... wanting the battery pack right over the front axles, if you've done the hood opening thing, you already know the "fun" involved. really can't do a tailgate delete, the floor of the bed sits too high for it to be a simple job.
newer C-24 kit did come with the lower ratio tan gearbox and the brass axle bevel pinions like the C-14 did, so 2 for 2 on that now :)
got pair 6v 600 rpm N20 gear motors on the way to pop into the B-1 that's getting this C-24 frame under it, moving parts around is going to be a little extra fun with putting the C-24 body onto the B-1 frame. B-1 currently has fairly fresh pair of 6v 400 rpm N20's, a bit slow... might even go tan gearbox with a 130 motor (whatever is a little faster for trail walking), the B-1 is still running its stock RTR bang-bang steering board but fed 2S 7.4v instead of 6v, the TOY board really hates trying to feed a 180 size motor. might have to upgrade it after the C-24 chassis slapped under it, lol who knows!
Are they shipping with both ring and pinion metal? Or just pinion. My b24k seems to have a great gear mesh with the plastic ring and metal pinion. No shimming or anything. Still going strong even with my semi abusive driving style lol.
just the brass bevel pinions, and yeah its enough!
Hello do the kits come with instructions I purchased the C34 KM there where no instructions?
It is supposed to but sometimes it is missing. They provide manuals on there website. Check it out here: www.wpl-rc.com/pages/c54-1-km-instruction-manual
Thank you
Just got this model, can I paint it to match more my real FJ40? Or is it a bad idea to paint these?
It's a great idea to paint these as it removes the shiny "plasticky" toy look to them. What color is your real one? I would use a primer first, just plain enamel, then the color of your choice. Also, I *must* paint the roof, at least from the inside, in black primer, then white on both sides so sunlight doesn't shine through (the plastic is translucent) and make it look like the plastic that it is. That's my plan anyway. I'm waiting for spring weather so the paint won't take years to dry
Gear mesh problem on binding output and axle gear, i grinded the output gear tip on the inside, it is too long and hits the base of the axle gear, NO MORE BINDING, SOLVED!
nice fix!
Is the WPL C34 axle the same as WPL C14?
The c34 axles have metal ring and pinion gears and the km version is full metal. The c14 is plastic and metal unless your lucky and get a new batch that I heard come with metal gears now too.
What are the metal link lengths for C14/C24?
I don't have the measurement but I just measured the stock links and then adjusted from there if needed. Only my recent parts bin build has metal links on it and that's how I set it up.
Why ,,no q65 willys... you do so nice videos,,, Thanks
Thanks for the support! Should I get the q65? It does look ok. I was going to purchase but the mn model mn45 was released so I got that for now. Maybe I will try and look for a good deal and get one soon!
@@RunThatRC Do it,,, so great looking ,,and near to scale to willys,,9.67 % in 1-10 size ,with the right update it works real well to,,
Hi,
i just assembled the c34.order 15099
I have a lot of problems with c34. quality department is doing a terrible job.
tyres are wobbly terrible, wheels does not fit to a 5 milimetre drive shafts, Once i put them on i have to almost destroy them to take them off. just terrible.
Steering linkage came updated but assembly instructions are wrong, old. thats just basic mistake.
Input gear shafts are bent and because of that drive shaft cups are wobbling.
front axle is not working properly. i managed to brake in the rear one according to instructions but the front is not possible. front input gear does not mash with differential gear at all.
I don see how can all that be fixed, so i would like to return the product and them to return the money to me...
5mm hex are not 5 mm. and are bent already.
is this normal? no wonder wheels dont fit.hex should be 5mm and wheels 5.07mm.they should know that.
How can they sell a faulty product?
I asked for my 30 day refund but nobody is answering 😮
sounds like a bad experience. Did you purchase from WPL-RC.COM?
@@RunThatRC yes and that's my last time.
how to make wheel base inch smaller? please
for this C44KM you could cut down the threaded links to achieve a shorter wheelbase.
Sou do Brasil tenho fj45 wpl tudo de metal motor 370 quero vedar servo e o rádio flysky para não entrar água como fazer
im sorry bro my translator can't translate this.
sir which metal kit should I buy wpl c34km or wpl c24km
I would say C34KM because the newer high clearance chassis design.
I'm experiencing gear mesh problem on the bridge. Is anyone same with me?
Are you talking about the output drive gear mesh on the axle? I grinded the ouput gear tip on the inside, because it is hitting the base of the axle gear where the set screw is in. No more binding
@@noelramos8196 thanks for the info friend.
Your 6x6s are not getting much attention since you got the C34km LOL
Haha yes I am noticing this as well. They need a mud run for sure!
There is no way that measurement is in centimeters
I am measuring from the exposed metal area between the plastic rod ends.