Great video sir. It helped me to fix my problem this week end. The best thing about my problem was, 5 years ago I replaced the fans with and aftermarket assembly. So I was able to change this out from the top without having to remove anything to get to it. Thank you for your time in producing this video. Six years later, and it still helping people. Thank You.
Thanx a lot for your clarification. I had a problem with my fans not coming on for my RSX. I googled for days and everybody keeps talking about the one ECT by the Engine block and doing the safety pin test on that will trigger the fans to turn on. I did it and nothing happens, so I was scratching my head for the longest time trying to figure out why it's not turning the fans on. I know about the one ECT by the rad and tested that made my fans go on there, but nobody talks about that sensor. Because of your helpful description, now I know where my problem is, and I will hopefully fix my problem by replacing my ECT2 sensor. Thank you very much!
@@ozzstars_cars Well, I currently don't have any problem with the Temperature gauge rising, I just noticed that both fans were not working even on the hottest days and I just noticed my Voltage drop dramatically when I slow down, but when it's cool or during winter I don't have that problem at all. So, I am suspecting it could be the cause of the fans not working. I bought the ECT1 and ECT2 already a while back because I didn't know which to replace. I played around with some electrical components now, so when It's getting warmer now, I'll see how it goes. When I replace the ECT2 sensor and get the fans working again, I'll let you know. Thanx again! Cheers!
Thank you , Got a 2010 Honda Civic with a engine trouble warning, escaned an I got a coolant sensor 2 trouble. Your Video will make my work replacing the Bugger easy ,tsk a lot.
Had code P2185 on my 2005 Honda Accord and this video was the solution, thank you! Note - the part number you had shown is now listed for a Honda Civic, I ended up with an FAE Altrom part #143 5085
Ozzstar Correct. That is the vehicle in the video and mine also. However when I went to Advance Auto, both the counter person and I saw that part number was showing it fit a Civic. Instead of risking it, I went to another parts store.
You are a star Ozzstar!!! Awesome video man... I have some 90k miles on my 2005 Honda Accord and I am having this problem for the second time. The 1st time it happened, I paid about $30 to a "mobile car repair" guy to replace the ECT2 sensor for me. He reached the sensor from the top of the hood, not from the bottom and he did not even empty the coolant. He did tell me that some coolant was lost but not too much.
Bro your the best amazing video you just helped me tons and helped me learn more about my motor keep up these great detailed videos you explained everything perfectly, showed everything also mentioned possibilities. You just earned a sub keep on wrenching brother God Bless You 🙏🙌
Thanks for the good tutorial. It came in helpful for my wife's 2006 Accord. I was able to get it done with only a few broken clips. That's understandable, the car is 14 years so the plastic is brittle. First time the under panel had to be removed. One thing to note. I think your video says to use a 3/8" deep socket. Mine was a 17mm deep socket, but I had to use an 18mm because I did not have a 17"".
This video is very helpful i have a 2005 odyssey. Took it to the garage to get them to have a look the said the temp sensor #2 high voltage. Hopefully its nothing to hard for the mechanic to replace
Your video is in very good detail. Id do the work myself but i dont have the tools. So with out deleting the codes off the ECU once the thermistor is replaced doe's the codes reset itself once replaced.
+Jamie Landreth if the sensor was correctly diagnosed as the problem and replaced with a new one it should not set the code again. If the new ETC sensor is working properly
2003-07 should be pretty.much the same but a difference between auto and manual transmissions makes a difference. Automatic trans models use a cooler in the radiator. This car was a manual.
@@ozzstars_cars mine is automatic however the location for the sensor is much bigger than the sensor that actually goes in there. It seems like that short stubby fan switch goes in there but the plug is round and my plug is square like the one in your video.
Honda/Acura Radiator Coolant Temperature Sensor: amzn.to/2uXdEwM Blue Honda Engine Coolant: amzn.to/2G2nm5R Some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar Thanks for stopping by the channel! -Ozz
Re: wire connector to ECT 2: if this connector is jumped with a wire, should it automatically turn on the radiator fan? If that doesn't happen, does that mean there is a break in the wire somewhere? The fan works BTW and turns on with AC engaged, but doesn't turn on otherwise.
I am replacing this ECT2 sensor for the second time, and at 80k miles the electronic contact cleaner worked on the wire connector plug but now with our northern climate and road salt the plug is very green, corroded and suspect and not cleaning up with contact cleaner - ideas on where to source new electrical connector plug
Good question. A bad sensor could effect fuel mileage if the pcm thinks the engine is cold It would add more fuel. Probably depends on the strategy for individual makes and models.
Great Video. Honda should be ashamed charging so much for their antifreeze when half of it is water. I pay less for full strength antifreeze for Mercedes AMG customers.
All of hondas fluids a full synthetic so they dont corrode they cast aluminum. Which in my opinion means they didnt want to use cast iron or steel so in reality they engineered them so u dont run into problems. Ohwell if u have to buy honda atf fluids thats for a reason and a goof reason. If u use any other fluids it will cause corrosion
Great homespun cinematography! Thank you for yeoman service to your fellow man! You located two coolant temperature sensors into the engine coolant chamber - is one for high and one for low reading? If so, which sensor pairs with code P2183 and which with P2185 (both appeared on your computer screen)?
+CRBT CRBT both codes you mention are related to a defective ECM coolant temp sensor 2, located in the radiator. ECT 1 is for the temperature gauge only and has nothing to do with trouble codes. Thanks for watching
Excellent video. Had exactly the same problem with moisture getting past the rubber seal in the pigtail corroding the same connector. I do have one other problem for which I was hoping you may have some insight. Unlike the entire pin coming off a the base of the connector, mine corroded near the middle of the pin leaving approximately 1/2 of the pin inside the pigtail when I removed the pigtail from the sensor. Looking at the end of the pigtail, it appears that each female pin retainer side may come apart allowing me to remove the broken portion of the pin. As expected, no real help from the Honda dealership as they want to sell a complete front wiring harness for over $100.00. Not to mention the extensive amount of time it would take to disconnect and replace it. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
Doesn't surprise me the dealership would charge that kind of money. You have to get those broken pins out of the female side so here is a suggestion for you. You can most likely 're-pin' or splice in an aftermarket connector. Very inexpensive that way doing it yourself! You will need to know which 'special' pick you need to remove the pins from the connector if re-pinning. If the pins are damaged with corrosion they can be replaced for just a few dollars, look on places like ebay or rockauto. Do a search on that topic, fix it and let me know how you did. You can get it done Minnesota, take your time! Take it easy - ozz
i have an 07 honda accord. and i changed this sensor but the check engine light still comes on periodically. so i was going to change the pigtail just to be safe because the last one was corroded. but i cannot seem to find them anywhere, would you have any suggestions?
+Richard Fraley have you checked the trouble codes with a scanner? Corrosion inside the female end of the connector can be an issue. I would contact a Honda dealer and get the connector part number, if that was the problem causing the issue. First check circuit integrity. Good luck
do you have the ecm wiring diagram for the accord? i have a car got a messed up wiring, hooked all the wires, only ECT2 and MAF left.. i'm getting the P2185 and P0102 ...
Mannn Thank you I admire your wisdom! Can you tell me which one of the two sensors that controls the air fuel ratio? I have an issue where my temp gauge stays in the low range to long even on warm days and I have a check engine light for a P0134 o2 not getting current and Im wondering if one has to do with the other!! Thank you so much again Great deminstation!
The front A/F or O2 sensor controls the fuel trims. Test and don't guess. Here is a video you may find interesting on a Nissan. ruclips.net/video/o_DvodrqP1I/видео.html
@@ozzstars_cars yeah I just wasn't for sure I thought it did and I didn't notice anything else besides the two sensors and I know one went to the temperature gauge and one was the sensor but I wasn't for sure if they sent to the ECM to control the fans because when I turn on the AC the fans kick on at first only one fan kicked on then I replaced the whole assembly now both fans work but I did notice it after I took it to the automatic car wash then the next thing I know if I'm sitting in traffic the car started to overheat and again I only noticed it after the car wash and I do mean directly after the car wash.
If your Car / Trucks Shuts Off When Warm / Hot / Overheating and Starts Right Up After it Cools Down (30-60 Minutes)= Bad ECT Electronic Coolant Temperature Sensor / Sending Unit. You can do a By-Pass and will get you going again. Also, this will buy you some time to get a replacement unit.
Hey, man firstly thank you for making this video really informative. I am wondering if you run 12v to the wiring of the coolant fan sensor if both fans are suppose to turn on? Thank you!
I wouldn't try that with the sensor circuit. You can unplug the fans individually and apply 12 volts for testing. The ecm turns the fans on, not the sensor.
Great video! Hopefully you’re still monitoring this channel because I have a question... I have an ‘06 Accord with the 4 cylinder and my temp gauge is going crazy. I just recently bought the car and the temp was reading normal and then a few days ago I noticed with the car off the temp gauge was sitting on H and the as the car warmed it climbed from there.. Now it’s on the complete opposite side of the C - H. As it warms it seems to still climb within what would be considered normal perimeters the needle just isn’t on the right side of the gauge. It’s not overheating. I was thinking the temp sensor #2 (at the cyl head) is bad. Your thoughts??
You have to test the coolant sensor. I would also check scan date to see what the ECM is reporting. It that's okay then check the wiring and connectors in that circuit for corrosion or a short. If that checks out then your into the gauge cluster to start diagnosing that. I make videos on a regular basis and check daily. Thanks for stopping by.
Thanks for commenting Mike. If you shoot me an email or private message the next time I check I will get you the software name. The software company does not pay or endorse me to advertise. Take it easy - Ozz
this really helped...thanks for the video. the check engine is on for my 07 accord. these are the codes i got p2183, p0111, p2185, p0128. Any idea what p0128 stands for??
With the codes you are experiencing Honda service manual states that it is possible for ALL those codes to appear if the ECT #2 is experiencing a problem. Test for a bad sensor or corrosion in the connector!! Ohm test the ECT on the lower radiator like i show in the video, this is most likely the problem you are experiencing. I believe the P0128 Honda trouble code states that coolant temperature is below threshold. This usually means that the thermostat is stuck in the 'open' position, and will appear when the ECT2 on this model is defective. Good luck with the diagnosis and repair, thanks for watching!
Not sure how active this comment section is but I have a 2015 accord that the cooling fan and ac fan do not stay on, seems that all the fuses are good. Think it’s the temp sensor? And help would be much appreciated
Which sensor controls the cooling fan? My fans come on with a/c running but never come on with it off but the temp gauge remains just below the half mark no matter how long it runs.
@@ozzstars_cars yes you're correct. It controls radiator fans. The AC won't blow cold without the radiator fan working, right? Im not telling..im asking..Would the ETC 2 sensor issue/non functional radiator fan cause A/C to only blow hot air?
To replace sensor the whole job can be done from the top of car. Drain radiator, then reach down from top of engine compartment and blindly disconnect electrical connector from sensor, blindly put socket on sensor and remove. (Make sure o-ring came out with old sensor) It took a total of 2 minutes to replace after draining radiator.
@@ozzstars_cars I appreciate you taking the time to make this helpful video but, yes, you can drain the radiator from the top. Lean over the top of radiator, reach down and open bottom drain petcock, Fluid will drain past circle cut-out in lower plastic shroud cover.
You actually are doing this replacement the hard way for the first coolant sensor, simply reach down to the left of the battery down to the bottom of the radiator and remove with socket wrench..takes 10 minutes max...Other than that great video...
Ozzstar you can still properly test and see it without removal of un-necessary parts. But to each there own. I prefer to work smarter not harder. But like I said great video.
nope...i'm not so fat yet that i cant get under the car without lifting it. wheels on the ground haha but seriously, I always use jack stands. safety first. Check out the 2:48 mark Jay. Thanks for looking out for my well being, appreciate it man.
This is the best RUclips video on ETC (engine coolant temp sensor 2) removal/replacement I have seen on You Tube.
Thank you Jeff.
followed exactly what you said, thank you for your help,. $40.00 part and an hour of work saved me hundreds and passed my emissions
Your welcome.
Great video sir. It helped me to fix my problem this week end. The best thing about my problem was, 5 years ago I replaced the fans with and aftermarket assembly. So I was able to change this out from the top without having to remove anything to get to it. Thank you for your time in producing this video. Six years later, and it still helping people. Thank You.
Awesome! Your welcome - Glen
Thanx a lot for your clarification. I had a problem with my fans not coming on for my RSX. I googled for days and everybody keeps talking about the one ECT by the Engine block and doing the safety pin test on that will trigger the fans to turn on. I did it and nothing happens, so I was scratching my head for the longest time trying to figure out why it's not turning the fans on. I know about the one ECT by the rad and tested that made my fans go on there, but nobody talks about that sensor. Because of your helpful description, now I know where my problem is, and I will hopefully fix my problem by replacing my ECT2 sensor. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the comment Jo, Let us know how the repair turns out. Glad to hear the vid helped you out.
@@ozzstars_cars Well, I currently don't have any problem with the Temperature gauge rising, I just noticed that both fans were not working even on the hottest days and I just noticed my Voltage drop dramatically when I slow down, but when it's cool or during winter I don't have that problem at all. So, I am suspecting it could be the cause of the fans not working. I bought the ECT1 and ECT2 already a while back because I didn't know which to replace. I played around with some electrical components now, so when It's getting warmer now, I'll see how it goes. When I replace the ECT2 sensor and get the fans working again, I'll let you know. Thanx again! Cheers!
@@joktv7748 good luck with the fix, keep us posted.
Thanks for this video. I appreciate you demonstrating how to troubleshoot the sensor and not just swapping out the part like most youtube channels!
The correct way to do it! Let us know how the repair goes. -Glen
Thank you , Got a 2010 Honda Civic with a engine trouble warning, escaned an I got a coolant sensor 2 trouble. Your Video will make my work replacing the Bugger easy ,tsk a lot.
I replaced ect sensor on top and thermostat and did not know there was a sensor on the actual radiator. Trying this next! Great video!
Thank you your video is still helping people 7 years later
Wow...time flies by fast.
Just got a p2185, google it and found this video. Thanks a lot man. Very good DIY vid
Thumbs up to you
Had code P2185 on my 2005 Honda Accord and this video was the solution, thank you! Note - the part number you had shown is now listed for a Honda Civic, I ended up with an FAE Altrom part #143 5085
The coolant temp sensor link that is posted in the description is for a 2005 Accord: amzn.to/2uXdEwM
Ozzstar Correct. That is the vehicle in the video and mine also. However when I went to Advance Auto, both the counter person and I saw that part number was showing it fit a Civic. Instead of risking it, I went to another parts store.
@@jayparsons9347 interesting but we know it works. Thanks for updating the info. Take it easy -Glen
You are a star Ozzstar!!! Awesome video man... I have some 90k miles on my 2005 Honda Accord and I am having this problem for the second time. The 1st time it happened, I paid about $30 to a "mobile car repair" guy to replace the ECT2 sensor for me. He reached the sensor from the top of the hood, not from the bottom and he did not even empty the coolant. He did tell me that some coolant was lost but not too much.
Vivek Shah thanks for watching Vivek. The sensor alone is $30, not sure how he charged so little and can stay in business
Ozzstar that was just the labor cost.
There is an open (not a short) in that faulty ect2 sensor.
Great video. 👍
Thanks for showing the locations of the two ect sensors.
You are correct. It's been a while but I probably was referring to the sensor being "shorted out". Either way it was junk. Thanks
@@ozzstars_cars yeah, I agree.
That sensor was toast.
@@ozzstars_cars I think you were reading the ohms of the vice also, since the metal part of the sensor was clamped.
@@anthonysteelemusic 12:25 clearly states OHM readings of the new sensor.
I also followed exactly what you said and it is now fixed. Thankful that I can now pass inspection. Thank you so much!
Nice!
thank you, I was doing that same job. but I didn't have the right socket but now I know witch one is. thanks dude.
+Erik glad the video helped you out, thanks for watching and commenting - Ozz
Thanks mate! Thanks to you I fixed a Honda Civic following your directions to fix the temperature sensor
Sir you are thorough in your work and you go all out to show what is what and where.Enough said now get back to work!!!!Lol
😂😃😂
Bro your the best amazing video you just helped me tons and helped me learn more about my motor keep up these great detailed videos you explained everything perfectly, showed everything also mentioned possibilities. You just earned a sub keep on wrenching brother God Bless You 🙏🙌
Thanks for your comment, will do!
Thanks for the good tutorial. It came in helpful for my wife's 2006 Accord. I was able to get it done with only a few broken clips. That's understandable, the car is 14 years so the plastic is brittle. First time the under panel had to be removed. One thing to note. I think your video says to use a 3/8" deep socket. Mine was a 17mm deep socket, but I had to use an 18mm because I did not have a 17"".
Fixed and the wife is happy. Priceless.
@@ozzstars_cars Indeed! Now to check her front driver side wheel for a scraping noise... Never a dull day even with the stay at home orders.
Will this cause ur cooling fan to not turn on ?
Sure could.
@@ozzstars_cars when I checked it for ohms it was reading 00.01a overload that means it's not working right ?
@@brooklyn7941 I discuss the sensor testing procedure in the video.
@@ozzstars_carsanother question did u experience any leaking at the top under the upper hose ? On the radiator
This video is very helpful i have a 2005 odyssey. Took it to the garage to get them to have a look the said the temp sensor #2 high voltage. Hopefully its nothing to hard for the mechanic to replace
Hopefully they know what there doing ;-) Thanks for watching and commenting Jamie
Your video is in very good detail. Id do the work myself but i dont have the tools. So with out deleting the codes off the ECU once the thermistor is replaced doe's the codes reset itself once replaced.
+Jamie Landreth if the sensor was correctly diagnosed as the problem and replaced with a new one it should not set the code again. If the new ETC sensor is working properly
Ozzstar the car is going to garage today to get scanned and hopefully fixed. Today 26 oct im in new zealand so a day ahead of usa
Very thorough , video , excellent instructions/ instructor.
Thanks for stopping by!
Will it make it run hot
Awesome video. Worked like a charm. Just one thing to mention , it might take a few driving cycles to get the check engine light to go off..
I have a question that I haven't been able to find an answer to anywhere. Does the radiator change from the 04 to the 05?
2003-07 should be pretty.much the same but a difference between auto and manual transmissions makes a difference. Automatic trans models use a cooler in the radiator. This car was a manual.
@@ozzstars_cars mine is automatic however the location for the sensor is much bigger than the sensor that actually goes in there. It seems like that short stubby fan switch goes in there but the plug is round and my plug is square like the one in your video.
Someone replaced the radiator before on your car then. What year do you have?
@@benny-hn7xe I have the same issue. Did you use the bigger sensor? The short stubby one Instead?
Is it necessary to drain some coolant if your just replacing the ECT sensor located near the engine & behind the cylinder head?
There will be minimal coolant loss. Top off as necessary.
Honda/Acura Radiator Coolant Temperature Sensor: amzn.to/2uXdEwM
Blue Honda Engine Coolant: amzn.to/2G2nm5R
Some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar Thanks for stopping by the channel! -Ozz
Re: wire connector to ECT 2: if this connector is jumped with a wire, should it automatically turn on the radiator fan? If that doesn't happen, does that mean there is a break in the wire somewhere? The fan works BTW and turns on with AC engaged, but doesn't turn on otherwise.
Thank you for this helpful Video. What Software and perhaps what USB Cable and OBDII cable are you using? does it come with free upgrades?
did you have to drain the coolant to replace the sensor or could you just replace it ?
Drain the radiator. Coolant baths aren't good. 👍
I'd like to thank you for posting this video. It has helped me a lot
Thank you for taking the time to comment!
Very nice video. Very clear and easy to follow. Thanks!
You are welcome and thank you for the comment Jammin
Are both sensors the same? The one on the radiator and the one on the engine block?
Not in this case.
This is a fantastic video! Thank you for this.
Ozzstar which sensor did you change the one near the cooloant drainage or the one on the top
The sensor at the bottom of the radiator amzn.to/2uXdEwM
I am replacing this ECT2 sensor for the second time, and at 80k miles the electronic contact cleaner worked on the wire connector plug but now with our northern climate and road salt the plug is very green, corroded and suspect and not cleaning up with contact cleaner - ideas on where to source new electrical connector plug
Do I have to drain the coolant before replacing the sensor or can I just swap out the sensors?
If you don't then a coolant shower is probable.
Thank for your addvice.keep it up you are doing a good work
Thank you Michael
Great video. Thank you.
Absolutely Kyle, thanks for the comment!
Good morning friend, excellent video and thanks for sharing it.
One question, can that sensor you changed interfere with fuel consumption?
Greetings.
Good question. A bad sensor could effect fuel mileage if the pcm thinks the engine is cold It would add more fuel. Probably depends on the strategy for individual makes and models.
@@ozzstars_cars Thanks very much buddy.
Greetings from Mexico.
Great Video.
Honda should be ashamed charging so much for their antifreeze when half of it is water. I pay less for full strength antifreeze for Mercedes AMG customers.
Thanks Marc. Almost all corporations nickle and dime consumers to the bottom of there savings accountant!!
damn auto zone charges 35 bucks..
All of hondas fluids a full synthetic so they dont corrode they cast aluminum. Which in my opinion means they didnt want to use cast iron or steel so in reality they engineered them so u dont run into problems. Ohwell if u have to buy honda atf fluids thats for a reason and a goof reason. If u use any other fluids it will cause corrosion
Great homespun cinematography! Thank you for yeoman service to your fellow man!
You located two coolant temperature sensors into the engine coolant chamber - is one for high and one for low reading? If so, which sensor pairs with code P2183 and which with P2185 (both appeared on your computer screen)?
+CRBT CRBT both codes you mention are related to a defective ECM coolant temp sensor 2, located in the radiator. ECT 1 is for the temperature gauge only and has nothing to do with trouble codes. Thanks for watching
Excellent video. Had exactly the same problem with moisture getting past the rubber seal in the pigtail corroding the same connector. I do have one other problem for which I was hoping you may have some insight. Unlike the entire pin coming off a the base of the connector, mine corroded near the middle of the pin leaving approximately 1/2 of the pin inside the pigtail when I removed the pigtail from the sensor. Looking at the end of the pigtail, it appears that each female pin retainer side may come apart allowing me to remove the broken portion of the pin. As expected, no real help from the Honda dealership as they want to sell a complete front wiring harness for over $100.00. Not to mention the extensive amount of time it would take to disconnect and replace it. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
Doesn't surprise me the dealership would charge that kind of money. You have to get those broken pins out of the female side so here is a suggestion for you. You can most likely 're-pin' or splice in an aftermarket connector. Very inexpensive that way doing it yourself! You will need to know which 'special' pick you need to remove the pins from the connector if re-pinning. If the pins are damaged with corrosion they can be replaced for just a few dollars, look on places like ebay or rockauto. Do a search on that topic, fix it and let me know how you did. You can get it done Minnesota, take your time! Take it easy - ozz
i have an 07 honda accord. and i changed this sensor but the check engine light still comes on periodically. so i was going to change the pigtail just to be safe because the last one was corroded. but i cannot seem to find them anywhere, would you have any suggestions?
+Richard Fraley have you checked the trouble codes with a scanner? Corrosion inside the female end of the connector can be an issue. I would contact a Honda dealer and get the connector part number, if that was the problem causing the issue. First check circuit integrity. Good luck
+Ozzstar yeah it's the same as the video. but the code comes on once every 3 weeks and stays on for a day or two and goes out.
Richard Fraley has
excellent video . i have a little bigger issue , but let me start of by changing both sensors and see if my heat guage normalises .
Do you know the codes of the sensors or the name? Or how can i found it online?
Thank you sir it helped me out !!!
You got it Eddie! -Ozz
this video is very informative, thanks......Please tell me what is the difference between the engine coolant sensor and the radiator fan switch?
what program did you use to see the engine codes and the name of what needs to be changed
Do you mean the scan tool?
do you have the ecm wiring diagram for the accord? i have a car got a messed up wiring, hooked all the wires, only ECT2 and MAF left..
i'm getting the P2185 and P0102 ...
Are you a Honda technician? Where did you get that software on the laptop
That's generic software obd link. Pretty much works across the board. Here is a link: amzn.to/2sSl4NU
@@ozzstars_cars thank you very much!
Excellent tutorial! Thank-you!
You are welcome and thank you for your comment John
Mannn Thank you I admire your wisdom! Can you tell me which one of the two sensors that controls the air fuel ratio? I have an issue where my temp gauge stays in the low range to long even on warm days and I have a check engine light for a P0134 o2 not getting current and Im wondering if one has to do with the other!! Thank you so much again Great deminstation!
The front A/F or O2 sensor controls the fuel trims. Test and don't guess. Here is a video you may find interesting on a Nissan. ruclips.net/video/o_DvodrqP1I/видео.html
Now does this senor control the fans? Turn/off
The ecm controls the fans. Sensors only report data.
@@ozzstars_cars got it
@@ozzstars_cars thanks
@@ozzstars_cars yeah I just wasn't for sure I thought it did and I didn't notice anything else besides the two sensors and I know one went to the temperature gauge and one was the sensor but I wasn't for sure if they sent to the ECM to control the fans because when I turn on the AC the fans kick on at first only one fan kicked on then I replaced the whole assembly now both fans work but I did notice it after I took it to the automatic car wash then the next thing I know if I'm sitting in traffic the car started to overheat and again I only noticed it after the car wash and I do mean directly after the car wash.
@@everydaycommute4794 test the circuit integrity, you will need a wiring diagram.
Is that a 22mm socket or 21?
fantastic job there!!
Thank you!!
Your welcome and thanks for stopping by the Ozzstar Channel.
muchas gracias por el video
Would that bad sensor cause both my radiator fans to not turn on at operating temp? They only turn on when the A/C is on .
Anything is possible. It's easy enough to check and test.
What is the name of the second sensor? Behind the engine
ECT1?
Hey great video. quick question do u think replacing the (ect 1) will resolve my temperture guage not working properly? thanks man
+Nice...Man properly testing the ECT1 will determine what is causing the issue. Diagnose, get evidence and then repair. Thanks for watching
Gear video! Do you have to drain the coolant to replace the sensor?
+K Psalms the coolant will pour out before you can thread a new sensor in if you don't drain the radiator first. Thanks for watching
Super video! Thanks. Dzięki Serdeczne!
+Voytek thank you for watching and commenting, Happy New Year!
Hey brother in issues with my 05 accord coupes trying to find the engine coolant sensor
Great video! Are you using the Scantool 425801 and if so, how do you like it?
Yes it is, works decent for what it is. No bilateral controls and can be slow at times. For the price its good. Thanks for watching and commenting
Is it possible for my sensor to be bad, without throwing a code?
Highly unlikely but anything is possible. Test and don't guess.
do you need to use a Honda genuine part or a similar part will do?
The sensor in the description worked fine it's also pinned in the comment section. OEM is good if you want to pay the money for it.
If your Car / Trucks Shuts Off When Warm / Hot / Overheating and Starts Right Up After it Cools Down (30-60 Minutes)= Bad ECT Electronic Coolant Temperature Sensor / Sending Unit. You can do a By-Pass and will get you going again. Also, this will buy you some time to get a replacement unit.
Hey Man I liked your video it helped, but for some reason I can't find the connection that goes connected to that sensor. Any help?
Í have a question the fans dont star
i change that sensor from the radiador.
and still not works.
I check the relays they work
and fuse
Did you apply 12 volts to the fan directly?
If your working on a 1.8L,the engine temp sensor is more forward towards the front of the car on the drivers side.
Hey, man firstly thank you for making this video really informative. I am wondering if you run 12v to the wiring of the coolant fan sensor if both fans are suppose to turn on? Thank you!
I wouldn't try that with the sensor circuit. You can unplug the fans individually and apply 12 volts for testing. The ecm turns the fans on, not the sensor.
Great video! Hopefully you’re still monitoring this channel because I have a question... I have an ‘06 Accord with the 4 cylinder and my temp gauge is going crazy. I just recently bought the car and the temp was reading normal and then a few days ago I noticed with the car off the temp gauge was sitting on H and the as the car warmed it climbed from there.. Now it’s on the complete opposite side of the C - H. As it warms it seems to still climb within what would be considered normal perimeters the needle just isn’t on the right side of the gauge. It’s not overheating. I was thinking the temp sensor #2 (at the cyl head) is bad. Your thoughts??
You have to test the coolant sensor. I would also check scan date to see what the ECM is reporting. It that's okay then check the wiring and connectors in that circuit for corrosion or a short. If that checks out then your into the gauge cluster to start diagnosing that. I make videos on a regular basis and check daily. Thanks for stopping by.
Nice video, well done. I'm curious which code reader/software you were using here?
Thanks for commenting Mike. If you shoot me an email or private message the next time I check I will get you the software name. The software company does not pay or endorse me to advertise. Take it easy - Ozz
this really helped...thanks for the video. the check engine is on for my 07 accord. these are the codes i got p2183, p0111, p2185, p0128. Any idea what p0128 stands for??
With the codes you are experiencing Honda service manual states that it is possible for ALL those codes to appear if the ECT #2 is experiencing a problem. Test for a bad sensor or corrosion in the connector!! Ohm test the ECT on the lower radiator like i show in the video, this is most likely the problem you are experiencing. I believe the P0128 Honda trouble code states that coolant temperature is below threshold. This usually means that the thermostat is stuck in the 'open' position, and will appear when the ECT2 on this model is defective. Good luck with the diagnosis and repair, thanks for watching!
very helpful.
Excellent job ... thanks for your efforts in making the video. What software are you using on your PC? Thanks.
Thanks Market. Message me and I will tell you about the software
Ozzstar hey software are you using ?
Not sure how active this comment section is but I have a 2015 accord that the cooling fan and ac fan do not stay on, seems that all the fuses are good. Think it’s the temp sensor? And help would be much appreciated
Why would they stay on? Cooling fans only run when necessary.
Very good video and very helpful! Thank you! Last question, how much was the sensor?
I think it was around $40 or so, aftermarket. Thanks for watching Dave
ozzstar I've subscribed to your channel, lots of helpful videos! I'll have to buy the piece and watch your video again! Thanks again and take care.
Thank you!
Your welcome!
Which sensor controls the cooling fan? My fans come on with a/c running but never come on with it off but the temp gauge remains just below the half mark no matter how long it runs.
I have the sams problem
2009 accord LX the same problem!
Same problem idk what it is smh
I don't get it. If the other good temp sensor reports to the gauge and the computer, what does the bad sensor do?
Depends on the vehicle. In this case ect2 reports to the ecm.
@@ozzstars_cars If your scan tool was reporting the engine temp, doesn't that mean that the ECM was already getting the info?
@@nickv4073 yes. I would have to look at a wiring diagram. I believe ect2 would be for radiator fan turn on and off.
@@ozzstars_cars Radiator fan. That makes sense.
@@ozzstars_cars yes you're correct. It controls radiator fans.
The AC won't blow cold without the radiator fan working, right? Im not telling..im asking..Would the ETC 2 sensor issue/non functional radiator fan cause A/C to only blow hot air?
THANK YOU BRO
Will it make it run hot
That same sensor tha goes into the cylinder head mines broke off inside and now I’m not getting a temperature reading
Time for some extraction action.
My fans turn on when my AC is on but won’t turn on when car is at running temp with the ac off can this sensor cause that?
What codes are you getting?
Thanks for this, did you have to replace the sensor behind the engine?
+Jeremy Ellis i didnt replace any sensors on the back of the engine
Thanks, great video. Parts ordered and taking this on tomorrow morning.
+Jeremy Ellis your welcome. Make sure to use the blue Honda antifreeze. Good luck
To replace sensor the whole job can be done from the top of car. Drain radiator, then reach down from top of engine compartment and blindly disconnect electrical connector from sensor, blindly put socket on sensor and remove. (Make sure o-ring came out with old sensor) It took a total of 2 minutes to replace after draining radiator.
You say the whole job can be done from the top yet the radiator drain is at the bottom? Interesting physics.
@@ozzstars_cars I appreciate you taking the time to make this helpful video but, yes, you can drain the radiator from the top. Lean over the top of radiator, reach down and open bottom drain petcock, Fluid will drain past circle cut-out in lower plastic shroud cover.
@@ruth1948 so you just let the coolant drain on to the ground? Or do you use a pan and place it under the car, down below.
@@ozzstars_cars Yes I used a container to catch fluid and then re-filled with 'Honda' anti-freeze.
@@ruth1948 oh good way to do it
Does that sensor make your car run hot
It reports temp to the ecm so it can determine proper air/fuel ratio.
Ty man I will go out and change it out and see what happens keep you informed thanks for putting your video up to man
You actually are doing this replacement the hard way for the first coolant sensor, simply reach down to the left of the battery down to the bottom of the radiator and remove with socket wrench..takes 10 minutes max...Other than that great video...
Takes one minute to remove the shield and the sensor can be properly tested and the connector diagnosed BEFORE replacing it.
Ozzstar you can still properly test and see it without removal of un-necessary parts. But to each there own. I prefer to work smarter not harder. But like I said great video.
I guess the mitts on the end of my arms are to larget to test that way. Smarter not harder is a good idea. :-)
Did you have to burp the coolant after replacing the sensor?
Yes, unless a coolant vacuum fill tool is used.
Great video, thanks man, but had to laugh at 3:29...lol
No jack stand?
nope...i'm not so fat yet that i cant get under the car without lifting it. wheels on the ground haha but seriously, I always use jack stands. safety first. Check out the 2:48 mark Jay. Thanks for looking out for my well being, appreciate it man.
Posición de correa multi canal
how to hookup to computer?
OBD 2 port
What the heck is the mean ?
That car does not look like the owner properly maintained it.
Great vid, thanks very much
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks, great vid
You're welcome