Hello Ultra 4! Thanks for sharing your build via RUclips! After analyzing your porosity at the mild steel to mild steel connection utilizing 309L, I’ve developed 3 likely scenarios. 1, the metal at that location was not completely clean. Please remember the metal has to be shiny clean on all sides and edges (including the back of the truss.) 2, Oxides were drawn in from the backside of the weld. Using a 309L= using stainless steel= at least 11% chromium. This requires argon shielding in Front of And Behind the puddle (i.e. purging). Exposing the backside of a puddle to our atmosphere results in sugaring and/or porosity. 3. Position related/wind related anomaly. While we as welders are always striving to be as comfortable as possible, sometimes we just have to make due with what we’re given. In this case, if you were in an unusual position, sometimes that can lead to torch height being higher than it normally is. This can prevent the argon from shielding properly, and again lead to porosity. Thank you for considering Arcforce1 for all of your welding diagnostics and forensics, and Happy Trails!
Hi Kevin. From one armature welder to another, (I have decades of welding experience in many processes but am still learning) I too have experienced the absolutely maddening situation of the "boiling puddle" while TIG welding. In retrospect I can always realize that the situation was not perfect in one way or another. Here are some things that I have discovered to be definite issues when this happens: 1) when welding that area where the cast meets the steel tube: there is oil and who knows what other contaminants in the tiny gap between the tube OD and the cast where the tube is pressed into the bore of the cast part. I sometimes have good luck blasting this with brake clean and then immediately blowing the brake clean away with compressed air because the brake clean will leave a residue (contaminant!). This can actually clean inside that gap, at least a little, and often makes a huge difference. 2) poor shielding gas coverage: Sometimes I would think that I need to crank up the flow to get more gas on my puddle or to compensate for being out doors where there's a breeze. However, what I discovered often happens is that if your gas is coming out of the nozzle too fast AND if your torch is at a steep angle (like it sometimes has to be), that fast moving Argon will actually siphon in fresh air from behind the torch - this will make your puddle boil and bubble. This can be helped or eliminated by simply reducing the gas flow some. Also, ditch the stock gas nozzle for your torch and get a "gas lens" set up. A gas lens really settles the flow of Argon and makes it blanket your area and not just shoot across it. The stock nozzle is like a narrow stream fire hose and the gas lens is more like a wide cone spray pattern that moves slowly and covers a larger area. 3) as clean as that freshly sand blasted surface seams, it's not. It is embedded with all the garbage that has been taken off with the sand blaster in the past (I'm pretty sure those places recycle the sand media). It's the same situation as you discovering that you wire wheel being polluted. Grind everything off and wipe with acetone. You were spot on when you said you should keep devoted wire wheels for TIG. I have wire brushes that I write "TIG ONLY" on the handle just so I don't use them anywhere else. Most of the time you can get away with murder by not fully prepping a TIG weld but sometimes things just have to be absolutely spot on and perfect or you get the maddening "boiling puddle" One last suggestion in my epic tale. I was dying watching how long it took you to sharpen your Tung. Get your self this Tung grinder and it will take you 5 seconds to have a perfect tip. I have 2 of these (1 at work and 1 at home) and they're cheap and work great! www.amazon.com/DIDUEMEN-Debugging-Electrode-Sharpener-Multi-Angle/dp/B09HX4PVVH/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=NY41ATYMOS0U&cv_ct_cx=tungsten+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._qBuu6FNnVIIdS2DWAKyakn3Lx7dqTJ4pvhT_6nYEqNvl7llbJ5G4g2bRB56e_7hngdvmSA8_FszeN_CjlJEoMMzPmpfqUz6ryhqMjMxkPQ.DQKhD_CuSJuz__Qbh3h90wPdM9047elp5uWS3Bzr8YE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B09HX4PVVH&pd_rd_r=90c08b12-0ec5-4bf4-8186-c5a34820e340&pd_rd_w=PpeMZ&pd_rd_wg=7PTZJ&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=H5X0WC0A7WWBYDXDCEP1&qid=1728151212&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tungsten%2Caps%2C159&sr=1-3-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
Bronco Graveyard has thee worst shipping rates. I am in Ohio about 2-3 hours from them and I still pay premium shipping rates. The only reason I’m willing to pay their shipping is because they have things that others don’t and they take some of the guess work out. They know what you need. Also since I’m so close I see the stuff in 2 days which is nice.
I mean did you plug the vent since the truss blocks you from getting to it and oil will pump out without the breather hose since there isn't a hole in the truss to get in there.
Ah, i see. Because the truss is so “loose” on the backside, i can still access it. It will need a 90 degree fitting now, but the truss doesn’t block it.
Hello Ultra 4! Thanks for sharing your build via RUclips! After analyzing your porosity at the mild steel to mild steel connection utilizing 309L, I’ve developed 3 likely scenarios. 1, the metal at that location was not completely clean. Please remember the metal has to be shiny clean on all sides and edges (including the back of the truss.) 2, Oxides were drawn in from the backside of the weld. Using a 309L= using stainless steel= at least 11% chromium. This requires argon shielding in Front of And Behind the puddle (i.e. purging). Exposing the backside of a puddle to our atmosphere results in sugaring and/or porosity. 3. Position related/wind related anomaly. While we as welders are always striving to be as comfortable as possible, sometimes we just have to make due with what we’re given. In this case, if you were in an unusual position, sometimes that can lead to torch height being higher than it normally is. This can prevent the argon from shielding properly, and again lead to porosity. Thank you for considering Arcforce1 for all of your welding diagnostics and forensics, and Happy Trails!
Wow! Thanks for the thorough review! I failed to mention in the video that the steel to steel welds were done with ER70s2
Tweco for the Mig, CK Worldwide for the Tig.
Hi Kevin. From one armature welder to another, (I have decades of welding experience in many processes but am still learning) I too have experienced the absolutely maddening situation of the "boiling puddle" while TIG welding. In retrospect I can always realize that the situation was not perfect in one way or another. Here are some things that I have discovered to be definite issues when this happens:
1) when welding that area where the cast meets the steel tube: there is oil and who knows what other contaminants in the tiny gap between the tube OD and the cast where the tube is pressed into the bore of the cast part. I sometimes have good luck blasting this with brake clean and then immediately blowing the brake clean away with compressed air because the brake clean will leave a residue (contaminant!). This can actually clean inside that gap, at least a little, and often makes a huge difference.
2) poor shielding gas coverage: Sometimes I would think that I need to crank up the flow to get more gas on my puddle or to compensate for being out doors where there's a breeze. However, what I discovered often happens is that if your gas is coming out of the nozzle too fast AND if your torch is at a steep angle (like it sometimes has to be), that fast moving Argon will actually siphon in fresh air from behind the torch - this will make your puddle boil and bubble. This can be helped or eliminated by simply reducing the gas flow some. Also, ditch the stock gas nozzle for your torch and get a "gas lens" set up. A gas lens really settles the flow of Argon and makes it blanket your area and not just shoot across it. The stock nozzle is like a narrow stream fire hose and the gas lens is more like a wide cone spray pattern that moves slowly and covers a larger area.
3) as clean as that freshly sand blasted surface seams, it's not. It is embedded with all the garbage that has been taken off with the sand blaster in the past (I'm pretty sure those places recycle the sand media). It's the same situation as you discovering that you wire wheel being polluted. Grind everything off and wipe with acetone. You were spot on when you said you should keep devoted wire wheels for TIG. I have wire brushes that I write "TIG ONLY" on the handle just so I don't use them anywhere else.
Most of the time you can get away with murder by not fully prepping a TIG weld but sometimes things just have to be absolutely spot on and perfect or you get the maddening "boiling puddle"
One last suggestion in my epic tale. I was dying watching how long it took you to sharpen your Tung. Get your self this Tung grinder and it will take you 5 seconds to have a perfect tip. I have 2 of these (1 at work and 1 at home) and they're cheap and work great!
www.amazon.com/DIDUEMEN-Debugging-Electrode-Sharpener-Multi-Angle/dp/B09HX4PVVH/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=NY41ATYMOS0U&cv_ct_cx=tungsten+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._qBuu6FNnVIIdS2DWAKyakn3Lx7dqTJ4pvhT_6nYEqNvl7llbJ5G4g2bRB56e_7hngdvmSA8_FszeN_CjlJEoMMzPmpfqUz6ryhqMjMxkPQ.DQKhD_CuSJuz__Qbh3h90wPdM9047elp5uWS3Bzr8YE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B09HX4PVVH&pd_rd_r=90c08b12-0ec5-4bf4-8186-c5a34820e340&pd_rd_w=PpeMZ&pd_rd_wg=7PTZJ&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=H5X0WC0A7WWBYDXDCEP1&qid=1728151212&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tungsten%2Caps%2C159&sr=1-3-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
Awesome info! Thank you!
Loving this build can’t wait to see her done your doing a great job on the video’s can’t wait to see it on the trails.
Thank you! Just glad folks are watching/enjoying. I am very excited to drive this thing.
Thank you ultra4jones for helped me on double checking my rear end pinion angle for a custom drive shaft. Great tech tip.
Right on! Thanks for watching
Turning out good, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thank you for the watch!
Keep up the good work dude!!!
Thank you! Clock is ticking
My wife also refuses to wear proper footwear in the garage. "Can i get away with flip flops?" is a line ive heard before lol
Story of my life
@@Chasing518 so thankful they are good sports about our tomfoolery 🙏
🎉
Bronco Graveyard has thee worst shipping rates. I am in Ohio about 2-3 hours from them and I still pay premium shipping rates. The only reason I’m willing to pay their shipping is because they have things that others don’t and they take some of the guess work out. They know what you need. Also since I’m so close I see the stuff in 2 days which is nice.
@@ggfleadguitar14 well at least it isn’t just a California problem!
Did you put a plug in the vent hole before welding on the truss?
I am pulling the axle apart to replace axle seals, so it will get cleaned out real good once I am done welding on brackets
I mean did you plug the vent since the truss blocks you from getting to it and oil will pump out without the breather hose since there isn't a hole in the truss to get in there.
Ah, i see. Because the truss is so “loose” on the backside, i can still access it. It will need a 90 degree fitting now, but the truss doesn’t block it.
No clearance issues with the truss and crossmber?
No clue! Have never even placed axle under truck
@@Chasing518 I’m rootin for you!!!!!!!