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Bronco Graveyard has thee worst shipping rates. I am in Ohio about 2-3 hours from them and I still pay premium shipping rates. The only reason I’m willing to pay their shipping is because they have things that others don’t and they take some of the guess work out. They know what you need. Also since I’m so close I see the stuff in 2 days which is nice.

Did you put a plug in the vent hole before welding on the truss?

Turning out good, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones

Tweco for the Mig, CK Worldwide for the Tig.

Keep up the good work dude!!!

Thank you ultra4jones for helped me on double checking my rear end pinion angle for a custom drive shaft. Great tech tip.

No clearance issues with the truss and crossmber?

My wife also refuses to wear proper footwear in the garage. "Can i get away with flip flops?" is a line ive heard before lol

Hi Kevin. From one armature welder to another, (I have decades of welding experience in many processes but am still learning) I too have experienced the absolutely maddening situation of the "boiling puddle" while TIG welding. In retrospect I can always realize that the situation was not perfect in one way or another. Here are some things that I have discovered to be definite issues when this happens: 1) when welding that area where the cast meets the steel tube: there is oil and who knows what other contaminants in the tiny gap between the tube OD and the cast where the tube is pressed into the bore of the cast part. I sometimes have good luck blasting this with brake clean and then immediately blowing the brake clean away with compressed air because the brake clean will leave a residue (contaminant!). This can actually clean inside that gap, at least a little, and often makes a huge difference. 2) poor shielding gas coverage: Sometimes I would think that I need to crank up the flow to get more gas on my puddle or to compensate for being out doors where there's a breeze. However, what I discovered often happens is that if your gas is coming out of the nozzle too fast AND if your torch is at a steep angle (like it sometimes has to be), that fast moving Argon will actually siphon in fresh air from behind the torch - this will make your puddle boil and bubble. This can be helped or eliminated by simply reducing the gas flow some. Also, ditch the stock gas nozzle for your torch and get a "gas lens" set up. A gas lens really settles the flow of Argon and makes it blanket your area and not just shoot across it. The stock nozzle is like a narrow stream fire hose and the gas lens is more like a wide cone spray pattern that moves slowly and covers a larger area. 3) as clean as that freshly sand blasted surface seams, it's not. It is embedded with all the garbage that has been taken off with the sand blaster in the past (I'm pretty sure those places recycle the sand media). It's the same situation as you discovering that you wire wheel being polluted. Grind everything off and wipe with acetone. You were spot on when you said you should keep devoted wire wheels for TIG. I have wire brushes that I write "TIG ONLY" on the handle just so I don't use them anywhere else. Most of the time you can get away with murder by not fully prepping a TIG weld but sometimes things just have to be absolutely spot on and perfect or you get the maddening "boiling puddle" One last suggestion in my epic tale. I was dying watching how long it took you to sharpen your Tung. Get your self this Tung grinder and it will take you 5 seconds to have a perfect tip. I have 2 of these (1 at work and 1 at home) and they're cheap and work great! www.amazon.com/DIDUEMEN-Debugging-Electrode-Sharpener-Multi-Angle/dp/B09HX4PVVH/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=NY41ATYMOS0U&cv_ct_cx=tungsten+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._qBuu6FNnVIIdS2DWAKyakn3Lx7dqTJ4pvhT_6nYEqNvl7llbJ5G4g2bRB56e_7hngdvmSA8_FszeN_CjlJEoMMzPmpfqUz6ryhqMjMxkPQ.DQKhD_CuSJuz__Qbh3h90wPdM9047elp5uWS3Bzr8YE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B09HX4PVVH&pd_rd_r=90c08b12-0ec5-4bf4-8186-c5a34820e340&pd_rd_w=PpeMZ&pd_rd_wg=7PTZJ&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=H5X0WC0A7WWBYDXDCEP1&qid=1728151212&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tungsten%2Caps%2C159&sr=1-3-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

Loving this build can’t wait to see her done your doing a great job on the video’s can’t wait to see it on the trails.

Hello Ultra 4! Thanks for sharing your build via RUclips! After analyzing your porosity at the mild steel to mild steel connection utilizing 309L, I’ve developed 3 likely scenarios. 1, the metal at that location was not completely clean. Please remember the metal has to be shiny clean on all sides and edges (including the back of the truss.) 2, Oxides were drawn in from the backside of the weld. Using a 309L= using stainless steel= at least 11% chromium. This requires argon shielding in Front of And Behind the puddle (i.e. purging). Exposing the backside of a puddle to our atmosphere results in sugaring and/or porosity. 3. Position related/wind related anomaly. While we as welders are always striving to be as comfortable as possible, sometimes we just have to make due with what we’re given. In this case, if you were in an unusual position, sometimes that can lead to torch height being higher than it normally is. This can prevent the argon from shielding properly, and again lead to porosity. Thank you for considering Arcforce1 for all of your welding diagnostics and forensics, and Happy Trails!

🎉

Really appreciate the real world testing especially with the fuel pump, they aren't cheap but I'm convinced it's a worthy investment. Thanks!🤙

Dude your still around! This is will from southern Oregon

Finally...a cool channel, in the format I like....that likes Fords. Rock on and good luck.

Love the build, man. I'm jealous.

👍🏻👍🏻

Gentlemen (and girl), I've watched a lot of youtube videos, lots good, plenty so-so, and some bad. Yours is one of the best I have ever seen. Thanks for taking the time, and spending the money, to not only teach us about important principles, but also to demonstrate them. You're all awesome.

That mirror dent just needs a load bearing sticker placed over it.

Congratulations, build is awesome 👌 👏 👍, I just did a 7.3 swap to a gasser body as well, looking forward to following your progress!

Keep up the good work! Bluey is looking good! 33:00 ♥

You are amazing stand up guy. You got this. I can’t wait to meet you someday and rest of the onx crew. Go Bluey

Looks like your rig is progressing nicely. When are you beginning the roll-bars?

Awesome work getting the doors and windows working. I'm happy I have a bronco junkyard that was able to provide you with the tailgate(s) you needed.

You’re not gonna Rockford this one too are you?🤣

If you go to the comment section of the video you were in on Mischiefmaker TV , you will see what I stated is 100% true . And I can almost guarantee you were seen for your good deed without hesitation and blessed you for it 🙌 It's been happening to me a lot lately as well and I pray for you now to have wonderful success on this journey 🙏❤ I also subbed so I can watch it happen 😊

Got a sub from me on here and on Instagram because of this video. Pretty ballsy to go out there with no sliders and stock shafts. You have lockers front and rear? I’m hoping to run my 92 full size bronco there once it’s ready.

My 96 bronco had where the rear window wouldn't go up unless it was latched

You should hook up a vacuum pump to the A/C lines befor you add refrigerant to the system

I need to do something like that to my door. It’s been hacked job to make it work and it’s just so tired in there. I have to reach over and open it from outside.

Looks good man she’s coming along will be a awesome rig when you’re done and yes that’s about as good as the rear window works keep up the great work.

You ever thought about half doors for bronco?

Love to see so many views so short after posting!

I don't know your rear bumper plans, but if you integrate a tire swing on the bumper, the factory upper mount makes a good antenna mount and covers the mounting holes. I have a picture but I don't know how to add it. Looking good

It’s so cool that you got the rear glass working! Thanks again for taking a few days to help out with the Liberty! 😀🤘🏻

Looking good you and your dad are a great team

Hey brother, I have a 1995 Ford F150 Eddie Bauer 2wd I wanna make it a 4 x 4 with the Dana60 in the front a it has a 5.0 engine will it be good enough or should I upgrade the engine?

LCOG is always better but has its own unique challenges

Have you considered a Cummins 12v swap in place of the powerchoke? Seriously tho, if you gotta yank the powerchoke then you should seriously consider a 12v Cummins either a Bosh rotary ve pump or the Bosch p7100 injection pump versions, both are equally reliable. The ve rotary pumps are easier to find, as a lot of p7100 pumps and motors have been gobbled up by the race guys and dump freaks and builders. It’s getting harder and harder to find a good p pump core to have built. A ve rotary pump is capable of 600-700hp with supporting mods. So an earlier 12v with the ve rotary pump shouldn’t be overlooked and noses turned up at it! They are just as simple, efficient and reliable as the p pumps! But dude, a 12v Cummins would be so much more reliable! Easier to work on! They are bullet proof! They start no matter what the temp is! I’ve seen a 12v start in -50 f temps! Try that with a power stroke! lol. The old powerstroke 7.3’s were reliable yes, but they had their flaws and weaknesses. But hands down a 12v Cummins wins every category every time. I’m not sure what the diff in weight would be between the powerchoke vs the 12v Cummins. But the power and torque diff will be huge! I think you mentioned when you had it on the dyno it was 300 something. That would be very very easy and simple to surpass with a 12v. All the way up to 1000 hp, and that’s using a stock block, stock rods, stock head and pistons and everything! You have a reliable mild to wild 600hp 12v motor relatively easily and cheaply! On a chase truck I’d want the Cummins, it’s reliable, easy to work on and fix anything, it’s bullet proof, and the blocks don’t crack (unless you have a 53 block from the second gens). The ultimate motor would be a 24v p pumped Cummins. They fit real nice in an OBS truck almost like they were ment for it. There’s several companies that make engine swap kits that are all bolt in swaps. Easy peasey. A bolt in motor joint kit that drops a 12v or 24v Cummins right in! Cleanly no cutting no welding or anything. Although I’ve heard of some guys notching the main cross member under the engine up front to make clearance for the oil pan, or just making a new better designed stronger cross member up front all together. One that’s bolt in and removable for services like oil pan removal in frame. Not that it would be needed but to have the option is always priceless! You’d have so many more transmission options with a 12v/24v swap. Me I’d run a nv5600 6 speed for ultimate towing and drive ability. But you can mate the stock auto up to the Cummins with adapter plates, there’s all Sorts of adapters out there for all sorts of trans engine combos. I’d think long and hard about it. Putting a stock form power stroke back on, especially one out of a donor/ junk yard truck is gambling. I mean it prolly ok, but I hate doing things twice. Fix it the first time and forget it! It just seems Like putting a powerstroke back in is keep it par it isn’t raising the bar or standard. A Cummins would be a huge improvement. As you can tell I’m a Cummins guy. I like the older Ford stuff ya. I have a buddy with an OBS like yours, he’s Mr ford himself. But even he knows a Cummins swap would be a huge upgrade over the powerstroke power plant any day of the week. You compare a ‘97 ford power stroke diesel To a ‘97 dodge Cummins diesel tit for tat but for nut and bolt for bolt the Cummins wins every time. Dodge owned the diesel Market in the earlier years because of the Cummins power Plant. They were more reliable, made better power, more, were simple and easy to work on. They were over complicated with an hpop and stupid flow plugs and glow Plug relay controllers and wires that passed thru and were part of the valve cover gasket. Stupid stuff like that. The Cummins was simple, it was cast iron, and it was bullet proof, a true industrial grade diesel engine. There’s a reason the out 12v’s in everything from dodge trucks to bread trucks, generators, fork lifts, tractors, air port tugs, man lifts, water pumps, farm machinery, military generators, 6 cylinder and 4 cylinder versions! The 4BT is just a 6 cylinder version with 2 cylinders cut off! They are incredible little diesel engines! But a powerstroke can’t say it’s been in all those things over 30 yrs? If anything the power strokes have gotten worse, choked up with emissions, dpf, def, egr. The 6.0 were junk, the 6.4l’s were complete junk, and now the 6.7’s are struggling. And it’s always head gaskets! Emissions, egr coolers plugging up. The best thing you can do is delete them and let them breathe! You got an hpop, an engine oil cooler that likes to mix coolant and oil. You got the dreaded cp4 failures that will cost you upwards of $15k for a complete fuel system rebuild! Junk. Do a Cummins swap!

This is awesome! Well deserved!!!!

Nice.

Congrats on wining the #onxbuildchallenge wildcard!! Exciting to see you guys finish the Bronco and to see the Bronco in action!

Enjoyed the video and family involvement too. Can’t wait to see the evolution of Red, White, and Bluey.

Congrats Kevin! Super cool

Yay

Personally, I think those element extinguishers are a joke. I’m gonna deal with a five pounder ABC you talk about chemical dry chemical corrosive well is very closer and destroys things. Also I have no faith in those elements at least five pounder ABC.

Your 7.3 swap was what caught my eye and why I started watching your videos.

You may already have done it, but Desolate Motorsports makes a Saginaw steering conversion for the Bronco that will eliminate all that cooling line and you can even do a ram option with it as well. Totally plug and play, so you may want to check that out so you don’t have to fabricate something. They also have a solid axle conversion kit too, though you seem to be have the fabrication side down on your own. Good luck.

I have a full size bronco on 37, Dana 44 converted to 8 lug. I have 79 coil buckets and 4” springs giving me 6” lift and I have 6” super lift springs. My wheels are 4.5” back spacing and there where tucked inside the fender, didn’t like the look, so I have 2” spacer in the rear and 1.5 in front. My tires hit the lower part of the front fender at full flex and the axle is 2” forward

Awesome. Congratulations! I've been watching for a long time now. Love the powerstroke content, I think your channel is going to blow up!