Lol just did mine had to remove compressor bracket as well took me like 3 hours a bit challenging but saved myself 300$ plus on doing this thanks for your DIY !! 2011 Ralliart has same alternator and steps are same remove from the bottom
I didn't want to remove the a/c compressor so I ended up removing the passenger side engine mount and jacked up the engine enough to wiggle out the alternator. About the same removal and install time.
Yooo, this comment may save me a massive headache right now. Got halfway through this R&R on own (somewhat experienced tech here) but the shop that previously worked on my friend's car must have cross-threaded the F#$K out of one of the A/C compressor bolts, and I cannot get it out without potentially breaking it. Anyway, gonna go out and size up this technique jacking up the engine now. Thank you for this tip!!
Swapped out battery new. Swapped alternator. No fix. Cleaned all cables for ground and to and from battery and this was it! Solved! I carefully cleaned with brake clean since I didnt have alcohol to clean with at the time just be careful not to spray connectors and I also re sanded the frame to where there are ground for the battery and terminals. 2011 Mitsubishi Ralliart turbo
@@boyevil22ev clean all wiring ends for ground and positive. Remove battery. Life that plastic battery bracket kind of thing. There should be 2 or 3 ground wires that you should see once the plastic tray under battery is removed. Clean with alcohol or carefully with break clean and sand down metal so it can create better contact. Hope this helps I struggled for about 2 weeks of no car. Battery was barely 2 months. Alternaotr wasnt charging battery anymore so me thinking its something with the charging system. So changex out alternaotr and car was still weak at charging and had to jump the car. Cleaned all wiring and turns out this was most likely the issue. Also my old alternator was at 138k miles. So that could've also been the problem but first try clean wiring before buying an alternator. Hope this helps saludos!
Definitely would love what your impressions are of the evo x compared to your evo 8. Pros/cons of each and which you prefer and for what reasons. Thanks Czero!
I'm looking for a evo7 head to see if mi invention works but i don't seem to find it anywere Were you're aftermarket parts ? If I'm looking for anything in particular
I just sold my Evo SE with winter tires on it. Let me know if you're interested in my barely used summer tires and rims. Pilot Super Sport on Konig milligrams if i remember correctly.
The reason you don't have a normal 16mm wrench is cause 16mm is NOT a common metric size at all in my experience. Whenever I find a "16mm" I just assume it's a 5/8 even if it's on an otherwise metric vehicle, cause again, 16mm hardly exists. I used 5/8 for all "16mm" bolts on my friends 2012 Ralliart without issue. However, it appears that the shop that replaced his alternator last year (yes it also died in a year) must have cross-threaded one of the A/C compressor bolts, cause it is NOT coming out with pen/heat/time. There also appears to be an entire 3rd bolt that is completely missing from the compressor, unless they are only held in by 2, and Mitsu leaves an empty hole down bottom?? Anyway, long story short, I told my friend to stop bringing his nice car to the cheapest shops around, AND I much prefer working on Subarus. 😂🤷♂ Thanks for the video buddy, very helpful into for an experienced tech who doesn't work on Mitsu's often.
Lol just did mine had to remove compressor bracket as well took me like 3 hours a bit challenging but saved myself 300$ plus on doing this thanks for your DIY !!
2011 Ralliart has same alternator and steps are same remove from the bottom
I did the same with my 2015 GSR, it was a P I T A
I followed your video on the Evo 8/9 alternator swap and it went super smooth for the most part, lol. Keep doing great things!
Haha the og content
I literally just did the alternator swap on my 8 using your video from a few years ago lol.
haha the classic.
Awesome vid! I just followed it to swap out my X alternator. Only comment is that there’s a 3rd bolt on the ac pump that you didn’t mention.
I didn't want to remove the a/c compressor so I ended up removing the passenger side engine mount and jacked up the engine enough to wiggle out the alternator. About the same removal and install time.
Yooo, this comment may save me a massive headache right now. Got halfway through this R&R on own (somewhat experienced tech here) but the shop that previously worked on my friend's car must have cross-threaded the F#$K out of one of the A/C compressor bolts, and I cannot get it out without potentially breaking it. Anyway, gonna go out and size up this technique jacking up the engine now. Thank you for this tip!!
Swapped out battery new. Swapped alternator. No fix. Cleaned all cables for ground and to and from battery and this was it! Solved! I carefully cleaned with brake clean since I didnt have alcohol to clean with at the time just be careful not to spray connectors and I also re sanded the frame to where there are ground for the battery and terminals. 2011 Mitsubishi Ralliart turbo
Having the same issue right now with my evo x. Replaced everything last year. And then last week battery light popped up.
So bit of help, I saw some corrosion, also I am new to the evos. So anything advice or links well be helpful
@@boyevil22ev clean all wiring ends for ground and positive. Remove battery. Life that plastic battery bracket kind of thing. There should be 2 or 3 ground wires that you should see once the plastic tray under battery is removed. Clean with alcohol or carefully with break clean and sand down metal so it can create better contact. Hope this helps I struggled for about 2 weeks of no car. Battery was barely 2 months. Alternaotr wasnt charging battery anymore so me thinking its something with the charging system. So changex out alternaotr and car was still weak at charging and had to jump the car. Cleaned all wiring and turns out this was most likely the issue. Also my old alternator was at 138k miles. So that could've also been the problem but first try clean wiring before buying an alternator. Hope this helps saludos!
Definitely would love what your impressions are of the evo x compared to your evo 8. Pros/cons of each and which you prefer and for what reasons.
Thanks Czero!
Aye he's back
Love the video, I have the 2015 lancer ES and it's been next to impossible to find a video of this.
Will you be doing a review of the new Evo? Very curious to hear your thoughts on the car so far.
I probably should huh? I have been daily driving it for like 2 months now.
thanks, same method worked on my normal Lancer
Hola. Saludos desde Ciudad de México . Sufri mucho, por el estres no se me ocurrio quitar el soporte del carter de motor. Muchas gracias.
Best video out there, thank you for this DIY 🔥
What happend bro ? Are you okay or just to busy to upload a new video miss your content bro 👏
I'm looking for a evo7 head to see if mi invention works but i don't seem to find it anywere
Were you're aftermarket parts ? If I'm looking for anything in particular
Thank you so much for this video.
Does the belt tensioner pully unlock?
Glad to see you post, good info. 😄
I'm about to do one on a regular 09 lancer 2.0, looks about the same 🤷🏻♂️
The MR has three metal tubes going directly across the compressor
Would this work for a regular lancer ?
Another great episode Ishin
Thanks man!
why is your boost gauge jumping + positive boost at idle ? thats not good. is it not wired up correctly ?
I just sold my Evo SE with winter tires on it. Let me know if you're interested in my barely used summer tires and rims. Pilot Super Sport on Konig milligrams if i remember correctly.
is that a leak from mishimoto oil cooler? thanks
You're slacking Cesar! Start cranking videos, lets get those subs back up
5:51 holy rust batman
Is it the same for lancer es 2016
why the boost gauge reading so high at idle?
It's not hooked up lol
man are you gonna fix the rust issues?
The reason you don't have a normal 16mm wrench is cause 16mm is NOT a common metric size at all in my experience. Whenever I find a "16mm" I just assume it's a 5/8 even if it's on an otherwise metric vehicle, cause again, 16mm hardly exists. I used 5/8 for all "16mm" bolts on my friends 2012 Ralliart without issue.
However, it appears that the shop that replaced his alternator last year (yes it also died in a year) must have cross-threaded one of the A/C compressor bolts, cause it is NOT coming out with pen/heat/time. There also appears to be an entire 3rd bolt that is completely missing from the compressor, unless they are only held in by 2, and Mitsu leaves an empty hole down bottom??
Anyway, long story short, I told my friend to stop bringing his nice car to the cheapest shops around, AND I much prefer working on Subarus. 😂🤷♂ Thanks for the video buddy, very helpful into for an experienced tech who doesn't work on Mitsu's often.
Nice1 bro nice
So what’s up with the evo x
Hiw hard is this to do
I thought this was a rice gum video because of the thumbnail 😂
Yoooooo
Haha yoyo
Have you ever thought about twin charging an evo?
Negative.