"It's not a real truck." "It's just a Wrangler with a bed." "I don't like to thrash my trucks like that." LOL! The Gladiator was rated using the SAE J2807 method. It is built to work, and it works awesome!
@@travelinman482 lol both gas & diesel have a place. Choice is good. The 4.7 while reliable was weak for towing. It’s long gone anyway. The 5.7 is a great all around motor for a truck. But the diesel is far better for towing. Cooling restraints limit the maximum tow ratings per J2807 towing standards for the diesel jeep. That said for day to day towing diesel is the better tool for the job. Fwiw I transport TTs commercially plant to dealerships nationwide. Fuel is my biggest expense. 800k miles on my 14 Ram ED. 14-15 mpg avg towing with the ED vs 9-10 with the 5.7. Which would you choose for fuel efficiency and reliability IE profitability for this business. Choice is good. Short commutes gas. Long run times diesel. Today’s diesel emissions systems really don’t like short hops to the grocery. Just choose the best motor for your particular use.
The J2807 standard is a pretty low bar TBH. Its the bare minimum requirements to tow safely. The truck has to climb a grade at 45mph at relatively low elevation. The reports from people actually towing in the Rockies are not good and actual gladiator ecodiesel owners were the ones who convinced me not to buy one to tow my 5500 lb trailer in Utah
Great video talking about the WD hitch and how much it helped. The eco diesel is a great towing engine, the low end torque really shines. I’ve done some long trips towing snowmobiles and my ED is stress free and easy.
I pull 4300lbs with my 21 Mojave almost every weekend, 200lbs under max tow and still manage 14-15 MPG’s on steep hills and curve (Route 83) in Ohio… needless to say the truck doesn’t skip a beat!
Towing capacity is one thing, it tells you what your driver rain can pull. More importantly is that yellow door jam sticker that tells you what you payload capacity is. That is what the manufacturer is saying your suspension and axles can legally and realistically carry. This is all the weight you can safely load onto your tow vehicle, which includes the tongue weight of your trailer, your passengers, and any gear you put in or on the tow vehicle. It adds up fast, and you only have 1100lbs of payload capacity it's easy to be over capacity.
Ray 6k trailer say 12.5 percent tongue weight you are looking at 750 pounds. Unless you are putting lots of weight in the bed. Payload shouldn’t be an issue here. While GVWR is normally the first Mfgr spec exceeded it’s not my first concern. For safety & stability use WDH for replacing unloaded steer weight and keeping tongue weight ideally in that 10 to 12 percent range depending on what you are towing. You will achieve maximum stability & safely. Then enjoy the ride.
Love the videos. Do you remember what your oil temps were? I’ve towed our 4K lb camper to Moab/Colorado and saw it climb to 258 degrees. It never derated while towing but did after a quick stop for fuel with the engine off. I’m guessing it was heat soaked and cleared itself after a few miles.
Almost 1000 miles towing my 26ft camper in the past 2 weeks with my gas Rubicon. Crossed CAT scale on the way home today at 11,820 GCW, meaning about 6100lbs for the camper. I am over on gvw/ payload by 290lbs when my family is in the truck, however I now have rear air bags, so I’m not super concerned (figure my practical- not legal-payload is probably closer to a max tow). 17 psi in the bags, E2 weight distribution hitch and it pulls more comfortably and controlled than any full size truck I’ve owned. Wish I had more power, but if I stick to 63 mph I can average 9-10mpg and not feel like I’m killing the engine. 27k miles of nothing but smiles, not a single issue yet- best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
Sounds spot on. Only difference with the diesel would be averaging 14-15 mpg under the same scenario. Well plus twice that mpg difference when not loaded. Gas is better for short commutes diesel for long run times. Each has a place. Choice is good. Divided between 2 motors 800k miles on my 2014 ED towing TTs commercially. But like a big truck it generally runs all day not short hops to the grocery and back. New diesel emissions systems don’t like that.
Towing at or above payload capacity is not a place I want to be. Been towing Travel Trailers since the 80's and was taught at the beginning to not exceed 80% of my tow vehicle's capacities, and that is what I have stuck to successful for 40 years. Something goes wrong, the police, the courts, and your insurance company will be checking your numbers.
I have a Gladiator Rubicon...wouldn't even THINK of towing that size trailer. One reason I bought new instead of used -- who knows what the previous owner did towing, rock-crawling, whatever. And when it comes time to sell, they won't admit to any of it. No thanks, would rather take the first-year depreciation hit instead (and did -- bought new). -- BR
100 percent capacity is not 100 percent capacity in a more traditional sense. It’s rated to still tow that weight safely & reliably. Do what your comfortable with. But with proper set up IE using a WDH above 5k per Mfgr to get proper weight distribution it will tow maximum rating safely & reliably. BTW 800k miles on my 14 Ram ED transporting TTs commercially. My trucks tow rating is 8,800. My average trailer is only say 6,500 but several times a year I get one that is to 9k. It’s about setup & maintenance. I suppose if you haven’t invested in a proper hitch don’t use a tape measure never been to a CAT scale, 80 percent is a way of compensating. Accidents police & courts oh my. Having a CAT scale slip showing you are within Mfgr spec much better than an 80 percent guesstimate.
@@vernlochtefeld1626 Still, I like to have a cushion, so if needed to tow a huge/heavy trailer, I'd buy a huge truck to do it -- a full-size truck, not the mid-size I have now. As I don't own a boat, ATV, tractor, livestock, etc., my towing needs are modest, but still like said cushion (the more the better). For some years now my MAIN need for towing is U-Haul's largest (and possibly over-loaded as many of us do, even if unknowingly) 6x12 cargo trailer, because when it comes time to move, I move myself (vs. hiring a moving company). But even that 6x12 is WELL under what my Gladiator can handle (7000lbs). It would be closer to what my previous vehicle could handle (Honda Pilot, 5000lbs) but still clearly under. So when I recently was looking for a new Daily Driver, it HAD to have at least 5000lbs towing capacity (like the Pilot) -- the Colorado ZR2 ("Plan A") had that, but I could never GET one at the time (due to the semi-conductor chip-shortage hitting GM hard) so I went to Plan B: The Jeep Gladiator. Anyway, since those trailers (even loaded) are not that heavy -- but sure WOULD be for a Jeep Wrangler or Ford Bronco with their anemic towing capacities of only 3500lbs max (the MAIN reason one of those SUVs were not on my Short List), I don't even own a weight-distribution hitch. Nor do I have a trailer-brake-controller installed (Gladiators SHOULD have come with controllers factory-standard -- the ZR2 does (!) -- but they don't): The U-Haul trailers come with surge-brakes...which will do for these lighter-weight trailers. However, it IS nice to know that my Gladiator can handle greater trailer weights should I ever need to do that. In short (!), regardless of the "item" in question, I like to have MORE than I need so I always have some built-in "headroom." I don't like to go to the limit, as I prefer to "be kind" to my vehicles -- I just feel better about it. :-) -- BR
Please don’t buy diesel i have 2021 gladiator rubicon with 2k bought last month been in dealership 3 times in and out now sitting at dealership torn a part no estimate when it will be fixed
I agree, considering the cost for the diesel option upgrade, DEF fluid, and the bend me over cost you pay for an oil change it’s just not worth it, fuel mileage doesn’t matter because it will take years to break even and the tow rating isn’t impressive either. Some people like it, I say it’s your money so buy whatever you want. Sorry you’re having so many problems with a new 60k vehicle, they should last 500k for the price you pay, that goes for every manufacturer not just Jeep.
Find a dealership that sells lots of diesel trucks with a certified trained diesel mechanic on staff. Many dealerships focus on car sales with mechanics trained on their gasoline engines. The problem is likely your truck and your dealership. The 2020 plus gen 3 diesel has not shown to be a problem child. At least so far as a whole. I say that as a mod on an ED forum.
"It's not a real truck." "It's just a Wrangler with a bed." "I don't like to thrash my trucks like that." LOL! The Gladiator was rated using the SAE J2807 method. It is built to work, and it works awesome!
Absolutely! 👏
It still needs a (4.7L or 5.7L) V8 for some serious towing work.
@@travelinman482 lol both gas & diesel have a place. Choice is good. The 4.7 while reliable was weak for towing. It’s long gone anyway. The 5.7 is a great all around motor for a truck. But the diesel is far better for towing. Cooling restraints limit the maximum tow ratings per J2807 towing standards for the diesel jeep. That said for day to day towing diesel is the better tool for the job.
Fwiw I transport TTs commercially plant to dealerships nationwide. Fuel is my biggest expense. 800k miles on my 14 Ram ED. 14-15 mpg avg towing with the ED vs 9-10 with the 5.7. Which would you choose for fuel efficiency and reliability IE profitability for this business. Choice is good.
Short commutes gas. Long run times diesel. Today’s diesel emissions systems really don’t like short hops to the grocery. Just choose the best motor for your particular use.
The J2807 standard is a pretty low bar TBH. Its the bare minimum requirements to tow safely. The truck has to climb a grade at 45mph at relatively low elevation. The reports from people actually towing in the Rockies are not good and actual gladiator ecodiesel owners were the ones who convinced me not to buy one to tow my 5500 lb trailer in Utah
Great video talking about the WD hitch and how much it helped. The eco diesel is a great towing engine, the low end torque really shines. I’ve done some long trips towing snowmobiles and my ED is stress free and easy.
Your trip looked like a blast. Good video.
Welcome back to the Jeep Family my brother!!
This is awesome and wholesome.
I live in Colorado and there's no way in hell that would get over the Rockies
What was the Length of your enclosed trailer?
I pull 4300lbs with my 21 Mojave almost every weekend, 200lbs under max tow and still manage 14-15 MPG’s on steep hills and curve (Route 83) in Ohio… needless to say the truck doesn’t skip a beat!
Towing capacity is one thing, it tells you what your driver rain can pull. More importantly is that yellow door jam sticker that tells you what you payload capacity is. That is what the manufacturer is saying your suspension and axles can legally and realistically carry. This is all the weight you can safely load onto your tow vehicle, which includes the tongue weight of your trailer, your passengers, and any gear you put in or on the tow vehicle. It adds up fast, and you only have 1100lbs of payload capacity it's easy to be over capacity.
@@raycalandra1887 I’m the only passenger, and I’m 6’ - 185 lbs… oh I do carry my wallet and cell phone too, but I’m still under weight!
Ray 6k trailer say 12.5 percent tongue weight you are looking at 750 pounds. Unless you are putting lots of weight in the bed. Payload shouldn’t be an issue here.
While GVWR is normally the first Mfgr spec exceeded it’s not my first concern. For safety & stability use WDH for replacing unloaded steer weight and keeping tongue weight ideally in that 10 to 12 percent range depending on what you are towing. You will achieve maximum stability & safely. Then enjoy the ride.
You should try out haspin acres in laurel indiana
What are the dimensions of you’re trailer?
Love the videos. Do you remember what your oil temps were? I’ve towed our 4K lb camper to Moab/Colorado and saw it climb to 258 degrees. It never derated while towing but did after a quick stop for fuel with the engine off. I’m guessing it was heat soaked and cleared itself after a few miles.
Almost 1000 miles towing my 26ft camper in the past 2 weeks with my gas Rubicon. Crossed CAT scale on the way home today at 11,820 GCW, meaning about 6100lbs for the camper. I am over on gvw/ payload by 290lbs when my family is in the truck, however I now have rear air bags, so I’m not super concerned (figure my practical- not legal-payload is probably closer to a max tow). 17 psi in the bags, E2 weight distribution hitch and it pulls more comfortably and controlled than any full size truck I’ve owned. Wish I had more power, but if I stick to 63 mph I can average 9-10mpg and not feel like I’m killing the engine. 27k miles of nothing but smiles, not a single issue yet- best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
Sounds spot on. Only difference with the diesel would be averaging 14-15 mpg under the same scenario. Well plus twice that mpg difference when not loaded. Gas is better for short commutes diesel for long run times. Each has a place. Choice is good.
Divided between 2 motors 800k miles on my 2014 ED towing TTs commercially. But like a big truck it generally runs all day not short hops to the grocery and back. New diesel emissions systems don’t like that.
Riding time is based on noise ordinance. Gotta keep neighbors happy. It's in a city
What was your tongue weight?
Right hand drive?
Towing at or above payload capacity is not a place I want to be. Been towing Travel Trailers since the 80's and was taught at the beginning to not exceed 80% of my tow vehicle's capacities, and that is what I have stuck to successful for 40 years. Something goes wrong, the police, the courts, and your insurance company will be checking your numbers.
I have a Gladiator Rubicon...wouldn't even THINK of towing that size trailer.
One reason I bought new instead of used -- who knows what the previous owner did towing, rock-crawling, whatever. And when it comes time to sell, they won't admit to any of it.
No thanks, would rather take the first-year depreciation hit instead (and did -- bought new).
-- BR
100 percent capacity is not 100 percent capacity in a more traditional sense. It’s rated to still tow that weight safely & reliably. Do what your comfortable with. But with proper set up IE using a WDH above 5k per Mfgr to get proper weight distribution it will tow maximum rating safely & reliably.
BTW 800k miles on my 14 Ram ED transporting TTs commercially. My trucks tow rating is 8,800. My average trailer is only say 6,500 but several times a year I get one that is to 9k. It’s about setup & maintenance.
I suppose if you haven’t invested in a proper hitch don’t use a tape measure never been to a CAT scale, 80 percent is a way of compensating. Accidents police & courts oh my. Having a CAT scale slip showing you are within Mfgr spec much better than an 80 percent guesstimate.
@@vernlochtefeld1626 Still, I like to have a cushion, so if needed to tow a huge/heavy trailer, I'd buy a huge truck to do it -- a full-size truck, not the mid-size I have now.
As I don't own a boat, ATV, tractor, livestock, etc., my towing needs are modest, but still like said cushion (the more the better). For some years now my MAIN need for towing is U-Haul's largest (and possibly over-loaded as many of us do, even if unknowingly) 6x12 cargo trailer, because when it comes time to move, I move myself (vs. hiring a moving company). But even that 6x12 is WELL under what my Gladiator can handle (7000lbs). It would be closer to what my previous vehicle could handle (Honda Pilot, 5000lbs) but still clearly under.
So when I recently was looking for a new Daily Driver, it HAD to have at least 5000lbs towing capacity (like the Pilot) -- the Colorado ZR2 ("Plan A") had that, but I could never GET one at the time (due to the semi-conductor chip-shortage hitting GM hard) so I went to Plan B: The Jeep Gladiator.
Anyway, since those trailers (even loaded) are not that heavy -- but sure WOULD be for a Jeep Wrangler or Ford Bronco with their anemic towing capacities of only 3500lbs max (the MAIN reason one of those SUVs were not on my Short List), I don't even own a weight-distribution hitch. Nor do I have a trailer-brake-controller installed (Gladiators SHOULD have come with controllers factory-standard -- the ZR2 does (!) -- but they don't): The U-Haul trailers come with surge-brakes...which will do for these lighter-weight trailers.
However, it IS nice to know that my Gladiator can handle greater trailer weights should I ever need to do that.
In short (!), regardless of the "item" in question, I like to have MORE than I need so I always have some built-in "headroom." I don't like to go to the limit, as I prefer to "be kind" to my vehicles -- I just feel better about it. :-)
-- BR
Please don’t buy diesel i have 2021 gladiator rubicon with 2k bought last month been in dealership 3 times in and out now sitting at dealership torn a part no estimate when it will be fixed
I agree, considering the cost for the diesel option upgrade, DEF fluid, and the bend me over cost you pay for an oil change it’s just not worth it, fuel mileage doesn’t matter because it will take years to break even and the tow rating isn’t impressive either. Some people like it, I say it’s your money so buy whatever you want. Sorry you’re having so many problems with a new 60k vehicle, they should last 500k for the price you pay, that goes for every manufacturer not just Jeep.
esha19861
Do you drive your EcoDiesel really hard excepting it to perform like a PowerStroke/Cummins? Lol
@@ddddsd20
I agree with your last sentence about expensive vehicles. And are comparing the EcoDiesel to what exactly?
Find a dealership that sells lots of diesel trucks with a certified trained diesel mechanic on staff. Many dealerships focus on car sales with mechanics trained on their gasoline engines.
The problem is likely your truck and your dealership. The 2020 plus gen 3 diesel has not shown to be a problem child. At least so far as a whole. I say that as a mod on an ED forum.