My Mamiya has been out of action for a year until i saw this video! I was dreading spending £££'s to try and get it fixed professionally but you sir have saved my back! Thanks you so much!!!!!
Thanks Dave! Just pulled out one of my dead ProTL bodies that had been sitting on the shelf after it stopped working. Followed the tutorial and its up and running again! Putting it back into my rotation as a spare body now. Thanks again!
Thank you so much it saved my mamiya, i just needed to play a little bit with the lever and the magnet solenoide who was a little bit dirty and it work perfectly now
mine got shutter stuck (crank's locked) after accidentally shot without the back. without the nut spinner i tried to poke that pin and its fully working again! Thank you so much , hope you have a great day!
Great helping video. I got my Super stopped releasing the shutter. But not even a faint click. Mechanical mode works. I wonder what could be the issue?
The Super is quite a bit different that the Pro. I have repaired some in the past. Could be bad battery terminals inside or make sure the small Brass rod in bottom of camera is not touching the pin. Hard to explain but once you have removed the removed the plastic covers there's a hole in bottom of the camera that you can see an adjustment screw. When you crank the camera the brass pin should not touch the screw. Check it for correct clearance. if it's touching the camera will not fire. At 7:13 in the video you can see the small screw in the hols (it's bang in the centre of the screen)
Hey Dave do you think its necessary to have the manual winder? I want to atrempt it with the grip winder but it automatically winds and could therefore force something? I just dont want to purchase a $150 winder to attempt this.
It's not necessary to have a manual winder but personally i favour the manual winder. It's smaller, lighter, causes less problems and makes the whole Mamiya system more reliable. No need to worry about where your next battery is coming from. Plus there's something that adds to the manual film photography experience when you manually wind your film forward. Just my opinion though.
@@davehyper7835thanks so much for the reply! I agree 100% and would love to have one in the future and I'm bummed the one I found on FB marketplace had this grip winder. What I am wondering is for the repair process if you think it's necessary to have the manual winder? The grip winder would cover most of the side of the camera we would be working on, but more importantly I'm wondering if the automatic winding could be problematic in the repair process?
@@davehyper7835 For the repair process do you think it's necessary to have the manual winder? The grip winder would cover most of the side of the camera we would be working on, but more importantly I'm wondering if the automatic winding could be problematic in the repair process? Ex, something is jammed and it just keeps forcing it?
Hi, apologies for the delay replying. I used a M6 nut spinner. The outer diameter is 10mm. I drilled the inner diameter out to 6.5mm which isn't a lot on a M6 but just enough to make the tool fit over the strap lug a bit easier.
I just picked up a Pro body that was described as having a shutter issue. The shutter was distorted a little, but I was able to straighten it. The shutter button does click but the mirror and the shutter curtain do not function. I have watched your video and followed along. I am not able to fire the shutter manually as you suggested. At the moment the mirror is up, but not all the way up to block the screen section. I can move the main gear above the magnet, but it will not cock the shutter. It keeps springing back just one or two cog teeth from the screw just below it. I believe this body can be salvaged, but I am getting where with my attempt to repair it. Can you help me a little more with some insights?
Hi Lee. It's possible some of the gears are not engaging correctly. If you have taken the first substrate (wind mech) off, it's possible the mirror lever and gear is not engaed correctly. As you replace the substrate ensure you have pushed the mirror return lever foward (toward front of camera) and allow the 2 gears to mate correctly.
As I look at it from the front of the camera the mirror lever is down towards the rear indicating that the mirror is in the down position. That corresponds to the lever on the side of the panel for the mirror in the down position which is normally correct. Before I took the camera apart the mirror button was operating as it should when I moved from down to up position and back. I just could not cock the shutter with the shutter crank. This was occurring before I disassembled the side panels to check for a sticking magnet. Plus when I press the shutter button I get the clicking on every other press.
@@leeo.alexander2324 ah okay, sorry. i thought you had removed the wind up mechanism. have you looked at my other videos for further problems with the 645? Also worth measuring the battery as anything under 6v and it won't fire.
@@davehyper7835 - The first thing I did was check my voltage. The battery is reading 6.3vdc. I have new batteries on hand if needed. Sometimes the clicking does get a little stronger and louder but goes away after a few presses. The large crank gear looks like it is aligned, according to the service manual, with the small hole pointing down and near the inside straight area. The small gear I can't tell until disassemble the top section of the wind-up mechanism. That is my next step. I keep checking and rechecking so hopefully I don't make too many mistakes. I believe I have looked at two of your videos so far. Both have been helpful. Just trying to make sure I am doing it right with verification from someone that knows more. It is not hard just tedious. I believe that if I can work on Radars and tactical radios, and build computers from scratch I should be able to fix this camera.
@@leeo.alexander2324 Sounds like you know what you're doing, i'm sure you'll get there. if you are unable to manually fire the shutter using the small lever above the electromagnet i suspect something is wrong with the wind mechanism. i would remove it, inspect, and reinstall. this also controls the mirror position. sounds like there's an issue with it.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I followed your video and now my Mamiya Pro TL works again. How beautiful is the sound of that shutter :-) P.S. Do you know what is the reason for that failure?
Hi Carlos, You're welcome! I'm not sure what causes this to happen but could be a simple sync problem (which can occur with the power winders) or a sticky micro switch inside or the camera may have taken a knock or been dropped. Also a low battery could cause the shutter to miss or fail to activate the electromagnets inside. This video is a fix for most little problems like this but if it fails to cure the problem long term you may have other issues.... of which there are many and the repair can get quite deep.
@@davehyper7835 I think in this case it was the low battery. Now the camera works fine and I will test it with two TRi-X expired fifteen years ago, the time that has passed since I used this camera for the last time.
Very thorough video! With my camera, I've heard the shutter problem is related to a loose solenoid. Is this something related to what you did in this video, and if not, is that something you have any knowledge about? Any help is much appreciated
I heard about the loose solenoid issue but of all the Mamiyas i have looked inside have never discovered it and have only read of it from 1 person.. Are you still getting issues?
@@hallelwolf It's a bit more of a strip down to reach the solenoid. People have said it works loose and fails to trigger the shutter. Can you trigger the shutter manually from the bottom of the camera there's a small hole through which you can see a white plastic pin. This is what a working solenoid hits to fire the shutter. A small screwdriver should do the trick.
@@hallelwolf Same as the TL and Super only. You could also cleaning the solenoid that controls the mirror up function as this may put the camera out of sync also. Here's a link to a channel showing how to do it. Personally i don't think it cures most shutter problems seen on the mamiya's but hey. The solenoid demagnetizes for a split second to allow the mirror to drop to original position. I could see cleaning it if the mirror were getting stuck in the 'up' position maybe. anyway, here's the link ruclips.net/video/TeTsZxvXB24/видео.html
Hi Dave. I achieve my mamiya 645 pro today with a motor driver. While the BC is turn on, when I click it the shutter and battery check,. camera sound like its winding, I tried to take off the back to test shutter but I see curtain would not move while the camera still sound like winding when I click the shutter . do you think I should have film in my camera so it would start to shoot ?
@@davehyper7835 thank you for your response sir. I already tried that but when i click the shutter i would hear nothing . I tried to turn the crank with my finger ( to see the gear rotate but the curtain would not still moving )
@@hoanghuy4701 hello. if you follow the instructions in this video and it still does not work i think you may have a deeper problem. have a look at this other video ruclips.net/video/JfzNJHC6Pn0/видео.html maybe it can help
The wind crank turns continuously without cocking the shutter? Could be that the camera is cocked already but not firing and the winder is slipped past the stop. Or the winder gear is jumped out inside. Without taking a look i wouldn't be able to tell sorry.
@@davehyper7835 great! It's hard to find someone who really cares about these cameras who seem to actually know what they are doing. What's the best way to reach you? you can shoot me a text at five one zero - six 9 three - 3688
dave hyper thanks for the reply. I was able to get the lugs off and open up the camera. I followed your steps in the video and was able to get the parts to move, but unfortunately my shutter button still won’t trigger the system. Still faint clicks. If you have a solution it’d be much appreciated!
dave hyper I can get it to crank after pushing the pin as shown in 6:35. and I can “trip” the shutter with the lever shown at 5:52, and after that the shutter button will bring the mirror back down, but not trip the system as a whole. Hope I’m explaining it okay haha..
@@dvnnyenriquez8343 okay sounds to me one of the lugs on a cog buried deeper in the shutter assembly has jumped out and when the shutter is fired its not returning automatically . I will post a video for further disassembly and highlight the problem deeper. you will need a good soldering iron and solder wick. give me a couple of days and the video will be up.
Hi Dave. Having a similar issue, same noise, except it's intermittent and with one of my backs the mirror locks up, with another back it fires correctly just doesn't wind unless I remove the power winder and reattach or turn on and off. Do you think it's an issue with the body or do the backs need a service? Thanks.
Hello Cian, This is a strange one. Sounds like it could be the backs but also could be the power winder. If you have a manual wind crank i would try it with both backs. I have known power winders to not fully wind on. Also check the film inserts... try swapping the film inserts and see if the fault moves to the film back.
@@davehyper7835 So I sent my camera off for a service and the issue cropped up again on my first roll of film. So much for that. With only paper backing loaded or to empty spools I can get the camera to jam maybe once per roll. With actual film probably three or four times. I initially thought it was a problem with the motor drive and have ordered a new one. I'm going to open it up and reset the timing once again as I do believe it's a timing issue. If I'm unsuccessful, would you be interested in repairing it, paid of course? I need someone who really knows this cameras gremlins.
it's an interesting fault i have never seen been it before but i think it is always worth trying to save a camera but if it's less expensive than buying another one.
@@davehyper7835 Thanks! I'm going to buy a Mamiya 645 pro body with similar problem for really cheap. I have some experience disassembling 2 Nikon FEs cleaning every part and assembling into a functional one. Seller says that no matter what he does it doesn't work and crank rotates freely. I hope I could fix it
Hi Dave, I have a like new Mamiya 645 pro. Battery light stays on and shutter works fine but the light meter in the prism finder and auto-winder with new batteries is not working. Any idea where my problem is?
Hi Matt, First thing i would do is get the battery check light off. The battery check may use part of the main circuit and whilst on (or being checked) the rest of the camera circuit could be isolated. Pop the cover off to see if there's a way of getting the battery check light off. it may need cleaning around the button area or the contacts inside may be damaged. once you've got the battery light to go out. test the camera's normal function.
@@davehyper7835 Sorry I meant the battery check light work normally and turns on when I press the button. Should I still open it up and check the circuit?
@@MFBARRIGA Ah got it! Personally i would get a manual winder before taking the camera apart. The power winders are notorious for causing winding faults, a manual crank will always ensure the camera is fully wound on. The prism finder could also be faulty so if you can try to borrow a good working finder to try.
2 pozi drive screwdrivers (philips crosshead) are available pretty much anywhere. The other tool for the strap lugs i made myself but a pair of circlip or pointed nose pliers should be able to get them undone. thanks
Hi Dave! I dropped my Mamiya 645 pro (I've only just got it) and when I press the shutter now it the motor winder goes through the entire film. Is it a stuck shutter problem or do I just need to replace the winder?
possibly. sounds like the motor winder is stuck on 'start' doesn't it?. Try working the power winder switch on and off a bit. Also try disconnecting the power winder and reconnecting it. Do you have a manual crank for the camera?
Thank you for the fast reply! I tried both restarting and disconnecting without success and the shutter doesn’t seem to fire, it just turns the back knob. I only have the motor winder but I might have to order the manual one to see.
@@dimaasad2694 worth having the manual winder. personally i cannot use the motor winders, can't stand them or prism finders. hope the manual crank sorts the problem for you otherwise you may need to take it apart see what's gone wrong inside
My Mamiya has been out of action for a year until i saw this video! I was dreading spending £££'s to try and get it fixed professionally but you sir have saved my back! Thanks you so much!!!!!
Very happy to help!
Holy shit!! I cannot believe that worked. Thank you so much Dave! Im lost for words.
You are welcome sir!
Thanks Dave! Just pulled out one of my dead ProTL bodies that had been sitting on the shelf after it stopped working. Followed the tutorial and its up and running again! Putting it back into my rotation as a spare body now. Thanks again!
Hi Jeremy, Glad to hear it! All the best!
Thank you so much it saved my mamiya, i just needed to play a little bit with the lever and the magnet solenoide who was a little bit dirty and it work perfectly now
You're welcome! Glad to hear you have a working camera again. Best regards, Dave
oh my gosh...thank you so much, you're fix worked. I could almost cry
Hi Erin, that's great news! Happy shooting!
mine got shutter stuck (crank's locked) after accidentally shot without the back. without the nut spinner i tried to poke that pin and its fully working again! Thank you so much , hope you have a great day!
happy to hear you fixed it, well done and all the best!
Thanks so much for this, Everything is working after using your repair.
you are welcome sir! glad to be of help!
Thank you for posting this!!
You're welcome!
Great helping video. I got my Super stopped releasing the shutter. But not even a faint click. Mechanical mode works. I wonder what could be the issue?
The Super is quite a bit different that the Pro. I have repaired some in the past. Could be bad battery terminals inside or make sure the small Brass rod in bottom of camera is not touching the pin. Hard to explain but once you have removed the removed the plastic covers there's a hole in bottom of the camera that you can see an adjustment screw. When you crank the camera the brass pin should not touch the screw. Check it for correct clearance. if it's touching the camera will not fire. At 7:13 in the video you can see the small screw in the hols (it's bang in the centre of the screen)
You just saved my Pro, thank you sooooo much !!
You're welcome!
Hey Dave do you think its necessary to have the manual winder? I want to atrempt it with the grip winder but it automatically winds and could therefore force something? I just dont want to purchase a $150 winder to attempt this.
It's not necessary to have a manual winder but personally i favour the manual winder. It's smaller, lighter, causes less problems and makes the whole Mamiya system more reliable. No need to worry about where your next battery is coming from. Plus there's something that adds to the manual film photography experience when you manually wind your film forward. Just my opinion though.
@@davehyper7835thanks so much for the reply! I agree 100% and would love to have one in the future and I'm bummed the one I found on FB marketplace had this grip winder. What I am wondering is for the repair process if you think it's necessary to have the manual winder? The grip winder would cover most of the side of the camera we would be working on, but more importantly I'm wondering if the automatic winding could be problematic in the repair process?
@@davehyper7835 For the repair process do you think it's necessary to have the manual winder? The grip winder would cover most of the side of the camera we would be working on, but more importantly I'm wondering if the automatic winding could be problematic in the repair process? Ex, something is jammed and it just keeps forcing it?
@@meg-jones I wouldn't attempt a repair using the the power winder. You could use a pair of pointed nose pliers to advance the winder.
Awesome, exactly what I need. What nut size is the base of the nut spinner that you're using to remove the lugs?
Hi, apologies for the delay replying. I used a M6 nut spinner. The outer diameter is 10mm. I drilled the inner diameter out to 6.5mm which isn't a lot on a M6 but just enough to make the tool fit over the strap lug a bit easier.
I just picked up a Pro body that was described as having a shutter issue. The shutter was distorted a little, but I was able to straighten it. The shutter button does click but the mirror and the shutter curtain do not function. I have watched your video and followed along. I am not able to fire the shutter manually as you suggested. At the moment the mirror is up, but not all the way up to block the screen section. I can move the main gear above the magnet, but it will not cock the shutter. It keeps springing back just one or two cog teeth from the screw just below it. I believe this body can be salvaged, but I am getting where with my attempt to repair it. Can you help me a little more with some insights?
Hi Lee. It's possible some of the gears are not engaging correctly. If you have taken the first substrate (wind mech) off, it's possible the mirror lever and gear is not engaed correctly. As you replace the substrate ensure you have pushed the mirror return lever foward (toward front of camera) and allow the 2 gears to mate correctly.
As I look at it from the front of the camera the mirror lever is down towards the rear indicating that the mirror is in the down position. That corresponds to the lever on the side of the panel for the mirror in the down position which is normally correct. Before I took the camera apart the mirror button was operating as it should when I moved from down to up position and back. I just could not cock the shutter with the shutter crank. This was occurring before I disassembled the side panels to check for a sticking magnet. Plus when I press the shutter button I get the clicking on every other press.
@@leeo.alexander2324 ah okay, sorry. i thought you had removed the wind up mechanism. have you looked at my other videos for further problems with the 645? Also worth measuring the battery as anything under 6v and it won't fire.
@@davehyper7835 - The first thing I did was check my voltage. The battery is reading 6.3vdc. I have new batteries on hand if needed. Sometimes the clicking does get a little stronger and louder but goes away after a few presses. The large crank gear looks like it is aligned, according to the service manual, with the small hole pointing down and near the inside straight area. The small gear I can't tell until disassemble the top section of the wind-up mechanism. That is my next step. I keep checking and rechecking so hopefully I don't make too many mistakes. I believe I have looked at two of your videos so far. Both have been helpful. Just trying to make sure I am doing it right with verification from someone that knows more. It is not hard just tedious. I believe that if I can work on Radars and tactical radios, and build computers from scratch I should be able to fix this camera.
@@leeo.alexander2324 Sounds like you know what you're doing, i'm sure you'll get there. if you are unable to manually fire the shutter using the small lever above the electromagnet i suspect something is wrong with the wind mechanism. i would remove it, inspect, and reinstall. this also controls the mirror position. sounds like there's an issue with it.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I followed your video and now my Mamiya Pro TL works again.
How beautiful is the sound of that shutter :-)
P.S. Do you know what is the reason for that failure?
Hi Carlos, You're welcome! I'm not sure what causes this to happen but could be a simple sync problem (which can occur with the power winders) or a sticky micro switch inside or the camera may have taken a knock or been dropped. Also a low battery could cause the shutter to miss or fail to activate the electromagnets inside. This video is a fix for most little problems like this but if it fails to cure the problem long term you may have other issues.... of which there are many and the repair can get quite deep.
@@davehyper7835 I think in this case it was the low battery.
Now the camera works fine and I will test it with two TRi-X expired fifteen years ago, the time that has passed since I used this camera for the last time.
Very thorough video! With my camera, I've heard the shutter problem is related to a loose solenoid. Is this something related to what you did in this video, and if not, is that something you have any knowledge about? Any help is much appreciated
I heard about the loose solenoid issue but of all the Mamiyas i have looked inside have never discovered it and have only read of it from 1 person.. Are you still getting issues?
@@davehyper7835 I'm having problems with the solenoid but I have no idea how to fix it
@@hallelwolf It's a bit more of a strip down to reach the solenoid. People have said it works loose and fails to trigger the shutter. Can you trigger the shutter manually from the bottom of the camera there's a small hole through which you can see a white plastic pin. This is what a working solenoid hits to fire the shutter. A small screwdriver should do the trick.
@@davehyper7835 ok thanks, another question the shutter of mamiya 645 pro it's the same of another's mamiyas 645 ( TL, Super etc...? )
Thanks
@@hallelwolf Same as the TL and Super only. You could also cleaning the solenoid that controls the mirror up function as this may put the camera out of sync also. Here's a link to a channel showing how to do it. Personally i don't think it cures most shutter problems seen on the mamiya's but hey. The solenoid demagnetizes for a split second to allow the mirror to drop to original position. I could see cleaning it if the mirror were getting stuck in the 'up' position maybe. anyway, here's the link ruclips.net/video/TeTsZxvXB24/видео.html
Dave, my pro's mirror is stucked up after bulb trial. If I remove the back I can move it back but when I fire again it stay stucked again
not sure what is happening here sorry. i'd need to take a look at it. have you tried another film back?
Hi Dave. I achieve my mamiya 645 pro today with a motor driver. While the BC is turn on, when I click it the shutter and battery check,. camera sound like its winding, I tried to take off the back to test shutter but I see curtain would not move while the camera still sound like winding when I click the shutter . do you think I should have film in my camera so it would start to shoot ?
hello. try to put the camera in multi exposure mode (switch on the side). The shutter should fire with no film back attached.
@@davehyper7835 thank you for your response sir. I already tried that but when i click the shutter i would hear nothing . I tried to turn the crank with my finger ( to see the gear rotate but the curtain would not still moving )
@@hoanghuy4701 hello. if you follow the instructions in this video and it still does not work i think you may have a deeper problem. have a look at this other video ruclips.net/video/JfzNJHC6Pn0/видео.html maybe it can help
Hello. Nice video. I have a Mamiya 645 Pro where the rewind lever just turns and turns without engaging the shutter cock. Any tips?
The wind crank turns continuously without cocking the shutter? Could be that the camera is cocked already but not firing and the winder is slipped past the stop. Or the winder gear is jumped out inside. Without taking a look i wouldn't be able to tell sorry.
@@davehyper7835 do you work on other people's cameras?
@@sosanista yes I do work on film cameras for other people.
@@davehyper7835 great! It's hard to find someone who really cares about these cameras who seem to actually know what they are doing. What's the best way to reach you? you can shoot me a text at five one zero - six 9 three - 3688
@@sosanista Hi Frank... Where are based exactly? I'm in the UK
Hey! Appreciate the vid. Where can I find the tool for the strap lugs?
Hi. I made the tool from a nut spinner using a dremel and needle files.
dave hyper thanks for the reply. I was able to get the lugs off and open up the camera. I followed your steps in the video and was able to get the parts to move, but unfortunately my shutter button still won’t trigger the system. Still faint clicks. If you have a solution it’d be much appreciated!
@@dvnnyenriquez8343 Hi Dvnny. That is unfortunate. Could be that a lug on one of the cogs has jumped out. Can you get it to crank okay?
dave hyper I can get it to crank after pushing the pin as shown in 6:35. and I can “trip” the shutter with the lever shown at 5:52, and after that the shutter button will bring the mirror back down, but not trip the system as a whole. Hope I’m explaining it okay haha..
@@dvnnyenriquez8343 okay sounds to me one of the lugs on a cog buried deeper in the shutter assembly has jumped out and when the shutter is fired its not returning automatically . I will post a video for further disassembly and highlight the problem deeper. you will need a good soldering iron and solder wick. give me a couple of days and the video will be up.
Hi Dave.
Having a similar issue, same noise, except it's intermittent and with one of my backs the mirror locks up, with another back it fires correctly just doesn't wind unless I remove the power winder and reattach or turn on and off. Do you think it's an issue with the body or do the backs need a service? Thanks.
Hello Cian, This is a strange one. Sounds like it could be the backs but also could be the power winder. If you have a manual wind crank i would try it with both backs. I have known power winders to not fully wind on. Also check the film inserts... try swapping the film inserts and see if the fault moves to the film back.
@@davehyper7835 So I sent my camera off for a service and the issue cropped up again on my first roll of film. So much for that. With only paper backing loaded or to empty spools I can get the camera to jam maybe once per roll. With actual film probably three or four times. I initially thought it was a problem with the motor drive and have ordered a new one. I'm going to open it up and reset the timing once again as I do believe it's a timing issue. If I'm unsuccessful, would you be interested in repairing it, paid of course? I need someone who really knows this cameras gremlins.
I have a Mamiya 645 Super, some of the shutter speed are definitely inaccurate. Haven’t got the time to repair it, do you think it’s repairable?
it's an interesting fault i have never seen been it before but i think it is always worth trying to save a camera but if it's less expensive than buying another one.
What does the crank do if that is this exact problem? Is it stuck or does it rotate free?
from memory i think mine rotated free. however, depending on the position of the internal mechanism i believe it can also be stuck.
@@davehyper7835 Thanks! I'm going to buy a Mamiya 645 pro body with similar problem for really cheap. I have some experience disassembling 2 Nikon FEs cleaning every part and assembling into a functional one. Seller says that no matter what he does it doesn't work and crank rotates freely. I hope I could fix it
Hi Dave, I have a like new Mamiya 645 pro. Battery light stays on and shutter works fine but the light meter in the prism finder and auto-winder with new batteries is not working. Any idea where my problem is?
Hi Matt, First thing i would do is get the battery check light off. The battery check may use part of the main circuit and whilst on (or being checked) the rest of the camera circuit could be isolated. Pop the cover off to see if there's a way of getting the battery check light off. it may need cleaning around the button area or the contacts inside may be damaged. once you've got the battery light to go out. test the camera's normal function.
@@davehyper7835 Sorry I meant the battery check light work normally and turns on when I press the button. Should I still open it up and check the circuit?
@@MFBARRIGA Ah got it! Personally i would get a manual winder before taking the camera apart. The power winders are notorious for causing winding faults, a manual crank will always ensure the camera is fully wound on. The prism finder could also be faulty so if you can try to borrow a good working finder to try.
Hey I just got a mamiya645 and this seems to be giving me the click issue! are you able to tell me what screwdriver size you are using?
hello, I use a Wera 118020 Size is PH00
Where can I get the tools used in this video
2 pozi drive screwdrivers (philips crosshead) are available pretty much anywhere. The other tool for the strap lugs i made myself but a pair of circlip or pointed nose pliers should be able to get them undone. thanks
Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it
Nice!
Hi Dave! I dropped my Mamiya 645 pro (I've only just got it) and when I press the shutter now it the motor winder goes through the entire film. Is it a stuck shutter problem or do I just need to replace the winder?
possibly. sounds like the motor winder is stuck on 'start' doesn't it?. Try working the power winder switch on and off a bit. Also try disconnecting the power winder and reconnecting it. Do you have a manual crank for the camera?
Thank you for the fast reply! I tried both restarting and disconnecting without success and the shutter doesn’t seem to fire, it just turns the back knob. I only have the motor winder but I might have to order the manual one to see.
@@dimaasad2694 worth having the manual winder. personally i cannot use the motor winders, can't stand them or prism finders. hope the manual crank sorts the problem for you otherwise you may need to take it apart see what's gone wrong inside
Just an update: I got the manual crank and followed your video, it works now! Thanks a lot!
@@dimaasad2694 That's brilliant news. Thanks for the update and happy shooting!