Hi Mike! I had the same issue with my 645pro. As I could not find any repair shop here in Edmonton, Canada, I decided to search for RUclips solutions. I followed your instructions and could solve the issue. I really liked how you made this detailed yet very simple video. Thank you very much!!!
I wish you could put your hands on late leica summulix 50 asph. There is absolutely zero information in the web about this gem's internals. It's good to know how to lubricate it and disassemble. Anyway great channel great content. Wish you all the best
So it looks like those little nubs are in series with the solenoid, when the "computer" in the camera tries to fire the solenoid there is high resistance from the dirt so it never actually moves. The purpose must be to prevent EMI feedback into the computer rather than using a diode that would eventually fail because of how fast that little arm moves. Very smart design, just needs some TLC every 30 years or so.
Thank you. I have a Super and a Pro TL and both are working pretty good at this time. I normally attempt to do most of my camera repairs before sending them out. I have a number of M645s that I have completed repairs on. This was a very good and timely presentation that I will keep in mind if any cleaning or repairs are needed on the two mentioned cameras I have. Thank you again.
Hi Lee, can you tell me if the button assembly of the Mamiya 645 pro and the Mamiya Super are the same? I need to fix this problem on my mamiya 645 pro and I was told that I need to replace the Solenoid. So I ask if the shooting mount is the same because I look for a camera that is only for removing parts and replacing it on my 645pro :) Thank you
@@hallelwolf If you are referring to the shutter button firing the Super is electronically-timed-shutter were the Pro has a mechanically-timed-shutter. I can't tell if the components are interchangeable. I will have to check to see if I can find a repair manual that will show the specifics of the body layouts. Just from looking at them they are very similar side-by-side, but there are internals that have been rearranged.
@@hallelwolf You can check the following manual (PDF), Mamiya 645 Pro-Service Manual (Cat. No. 20091140). That may help you in doing this fix yourself.
I really love your videos. In fact I was able to fix my old super takumar thanks to your videos on that lens. I really hope you will do a video on the old 55m auto rikenon (auto sears) one day. It's one of the best lenses in the world but the grease inside mine begins to harden as hell.
Thanks, it's great you have fixit your lens, because the old Super Takumar 55mm is a great lens with a nice picture rendering. The Rikenon sounds like a lens to look for on the fleamarket, if I come across one with a lot of dirty lens elements and sticky focus ring, I will buy it and make some videos about it (and then use it on my camera).
HI!! Fantastic video !! I think I've the same issue with my Mamiya 6. It worked but I haven't used for half a year or so (may be more). When I press the shutter button I can hear a faint click but nothing happens. I need a repair manual ... I don't know if there is many tricks to disasemble it! Thank you for sharing. Antonio
Is it possible to show your video set-up? It very well done and you don't seem the bump the camera everytime you move yet it's close enough to see what you are doing.
Yep I'am going to sell my plastic fantastic Mamiya 645 Pro TL soon and stick with the heavy metal Mamiya 645 1000 S . I have allways disliked the plastic Mamiya 645 , but my current Pro TL was sold with a very nice lens set of N lenses . The N lenses are very well build in contrast with plastic Pro TL , the plastic parts brake of easy and the plastic panals are very easy scratched . The build quality comes no way near the first Mamiya 645 serie that I allways liked very much and still do . Peter .
I subscribed to your video content for the Mamiya repair specifically sometime ago. I know this is an old video, but I just got a Mamiya 645 Pro body that has the same problem that you did this video on. The curtain was coming inside the film area and the mirror, plus the shutter button would not fire. I did all of the cleanings as you described and I am getting the clicking with battery installed. I am unable to get any movement on the crank to advance since the shutter still will not fire. i was able to get the shutter curtain aligned better and it will move a little manually, but I can't get the shutter to cock and fire when the shutter button is pressed.
THANK YOU for the video my mamiya 645 pro now fires. But i am confused why i have to click the shutter button twice before i can wind again. Any help would be much appreciated
Hello, I appreciate the videos, they are very helpful. Have you taken apart the Nikkor 300mm f4.5 AIS? It seems comparable to the 200mm f4? I need to regrease the Focusing system.
hey! thank you so much for the great and detailed video. I was able to make the shutter fire again because of your fix but now I have another issue, the crank gets stuck after firing the shutter (mirror is up) and I can't crank the shutter again unless I manually insert a tool in the hole found in the top right corner of the shutter curtain (usually its pressed automatically by a pin on the film back, but that pin stay retracted after firing the shot). Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
Great videos! Very informative! Please, give me an advice... I bought Leica Summilux-50 ASPH. and it has slight front focus issue along all focusing distances. Is it complex procedure to fine tune focus? I mean is too much to disassemble in the lens to make this adjustments? Thanks a lot!
I am trying to repair my Mamiya 645 Pro TL. I followed your instructions and removed all of the screws and rings but I can't seem to take off the piece on the winder side of the body. It is incredibly stuck and I find myself damaging the body taking it off. It seems very easy in your (and other people's) video. Could there be an additional piece on a TL? Any suggestions? Thank you for your video!
Hey Kenneth, I'm having issues with the shutter timings of my M645 1000S. Times are off a lot (more than double). I have read the service manual and did some online searching already. I replaced capacitor C2 already and tried changing the speed with the potentiometer but although it does change the speed, the change is not enough. I think I will need to replace capacitor C1 too, but I cannot find the values for that anywhere... Any chance you came across this issue and know the fix or the value of C1? :) I Just bumped into your channel while searching, and I love how you take the time to record these video tutorials, making repairing stuff easier for others!
From a reddit thread : "C1 is a leaded tantalum capacitor marked "2.2 J20". the capacitor has a polarity so pay attention when you desolder the old one and put the new one (I used a 2.2μF 35V one) in in the same orientation. Information on C2 is more easily found online but for completeness sake: C2 is a radial electrolytic capacitor with a value of 470μF and rated at 6.3V "
My 645 pro TL after being idle for a year or so started not operating the shutter but after playing around with it I noticed if I pressed again a second time and perhaps a little more firmly it would work but some times I first hear a softer sounding click then I press again and it goes off OK. I'll try your suggestion and see if this resolves this issue. thanks
Hello Kenneth, Thank you for the video. You are always a great help. I have a Mamiya 645 1000s. It works great. I did some successful repairs on it. Except the shutter is slow. Every shutter speed is actually one stop slower than the shutter setting. 1/60 sec is actually 1/30 and at 4 seconds setting the shutter opens 8 seconds. (I used the Photoplug app. For measuring.) Is there any cure ? cleaning the solenoid ? Or is the a alternative replacement solenoid you now off ? Regards Wilma
Instead of calling this video "Shutter Problem", he should've called it "Release Problem" - He actually worked on the "Release Magnet"... Your issue sounds like the 'OTHER' magnet; the 2nd Curtain magnet (it also requires cleaning). This 2nd magnet is used for the timing & variation of speeds...
Tank you both. I will try to look in it again. Wat I found in an earlier repair, was that a curtain ribbon was misaligned. And did not run correct on the top axle/pulley. This improved the highest shutter speed. Best regards, Wilma
Do you offer cleaning services for Canon nFD lenses? I've been looking through your older videos where you show how to clean them, however I do not have all the tools and am willing to pay to have someone clean them!
is there some way of contactiong you?. i have a 18-200 and a 70-300 nikon, both has a problem with VR. when turning on. it goes klong klong klong klong... and then dont work. if i hold the shutterrelease, and turn on power, the VR works, if i let go... klong klong.... i se many has this problem, but no help enywhere... you know the why?
I have a question about an older video of yours. I took apart my Canon 50mm 1.2 ltm lens and got it back together using both your videos on this lens. However, you skipped over putting the infinity lock back on the lens. I am baffled how to do this. Can you please help?
Hi Mike, I have a like new Mamiya 645 pro. Battery light stays on and shutter works fine but the light meter in the prism finder and auto-winder is not working. Any idea where my problem is?
I would look for bad connection between the prism and the camera body use a "glass brush" to clean the small contacts points/pins, of course there could also be a bad wire or the circuit board. Just some ideas.
Hi Mike, thanks for the video, i have the same problem on my Mamiya 645 pro, in two technicians I took said that only changing the Solenoid to solve it. Is it possible to use Solenoid from any other mamiya or does it need to be exactly a mamiya 645 pro? As I am in Brazil it is already difficult to find people who fix it and who will charge me a fair price.
If the solenoid is the same from another Mamiya camera, and it 's the same voltage, it should work. But you could also just try to clean the 2 solenoid's that's in the camera, to see if it will work or not.
AS Wrist bands are NOT needed for camera repairs except modern ones with PCBs and you should have a body cap fitted AND a back cover for the shutter, you have NO idea
Hi Mike! I had the same issue with my 645pro. As I could not find any repair shop here in Edmonton, Canada, I decided to search for RUclips solutions. I followed your instructions and could solve the issue. I really liked how you made this detailed yet very simple video. Thank you very much!!!
Just did this repair and revived a 645 Pro. Thank you so much :)
I wish you could put your hands on late leica summulix 50 asph. There is absolutely zero information in the web about this gem's internals. It's good to know how to lubricate it and disassemble. Anyway great channel great content. Wish you all the best
So it looks like those little nubs are in series with the solenoid, when the "computer" in the camera tries to fire the solenoid there is high resistance from the dirt so it never actually moves. The purpose must be to prevent EMI feedback into the computer rather than using a diode that would eventually fail because of how fast that little arm moves. Very smart design, just needs some TLC every 30 years or so.
Thank you. I have a Super and a Pro TL and both are working pretty good at this time. I normally attempt to do most of my camera repairs before sending them out. I have a number of M645s that I have completed repairs on. This was a very good and timely presentation that I will keep in mind if any cleaning or repairs are needed on the two mentioned cameras I have. Thank you again.
Thank you :-)
Hi Lee, can you tell me if the button assembly of the Mamiya 645 pro and the Mamiya Super are the same? I need to fix this problem on my mamiya 645 pro and I was told that I need to replace the Solenoid. So I ask if the shooting mount is the same because I look for a camera that is only for removing parts and replacing it on my 645pro :)
Thank you
@@hallelwolf
If you are referring to the shutter button firing the Super is electronically-timed-shutter were the Pro has a mechanically-timed-shutter. I can't tell if the components are interchangeable. I will have to check to see if I can find a repair manual that will show the specifics of the body layouts. Just from looking at them they are very similar side-by-side, but there are internals that have been rearranged.
@@hallelwolf
You can check the following manual (PDF), Mamiya 645 Pro-Service Manual (Cat. No. 20091140). That may help you in doing this fix yourself.
ruclips.net/video/JfzNJHC6Pn0/видео.html - Check this video out if you are going to do the work yourself.
Thank you! Followed this exactly and it fixed my 645 pro. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for the tutorial! I was able to fix my Mamiya 645 Pro that needed service.
I really love your videos. In fact I was able to fix my old super takumar thanks to your videos on that lens. I really hope you will do a video on the old 55m auto rikenon (auto sears) one day. It's one of the best lenses in the world but the grease inside mine begins to harden as hell.
Thanks, it's great you have fixit your lens, because the old Super Takumar 55mm is a great lens with a nice picture rendering. The Rikenon sounds like a lens to look for on the fleamarket, if I come across one with a lot of dirty lens elements and sticky focus ring, I will buy it and make some videos about it (and then use it on my camera).
HI!! Fantastic video !! I think I've the same issue with my Mamiya 6. It worked but I haven't used for half a year or so (may be more). When I press the shutter button I can hear a faint click but nothing happens.
I need a repair manual ... I don't know if there is many tricks to disasemble it!
Thank you for sharing.
Antonio
Is it possible to show your video set-up? It very well done and you don't seem the bump the camera everytime you move yet it's close enough to see what you are doing.
Yep I'am going to sell my plastic fantastic Mamiya 645 Pro TL soon and stick with the heavy metal Mamiya 645 1000 S . I have allways disliked the plastic Mamiya 645 , but my current Pro TL was sold with a very nice lens set of N lenses . The N lenses are very well build in contrast with plastic Pro TL , the plastic parts brake of easy and the plastic panals are very easy scratched . The build quality comes no way near the first Mamiya 645 serie that I allways liked very much and still do . Peter .
Thank you for this video!
Thank you :-)
We miss your videos!
.Yeah, but I'm very busy with other things at the moment, I will soon be back with other videos
I subscribed to your video content for the Mamiya repair specifically sometime ago. I know this is an old video, but I just got a Mamiya 645 Pro body that has the same problem that you did this video on. The curtain was coming inside the film area and the mirror, plus the shutter button would not fire. I did all of the cleanings as you described and I am getting the clicking with battery installed. I am unable to get any movement on the crank to advance since the shutter still will not fire. i was able to get the shutter curtain aligned better and it will move a little manually, but I can't get the shutter to cock and fire when the shutter button is pressed.
THANK YOU for the video my mamiya 645 pro now fires. But i am confused why i have to click the shutter button twice before i can wind again. Any help would be much appreciated
Hello,
I appreciate the videos, they are very helpful.
Have you taken apart the Nikkor 300mm f4.5 AIS? It seems comparable to the 200mm f4?
I need to regrease the Focusing system.
hey! thank you so much for the great and detailed video. I was able to make the shutter fire again because of your fix but now I have another issue, the crank gets stuck after firing the shutter (mirror is up) and I can't crank the shutter again unless I manually insert a tool in the hole found in the top right corner of the shutter curtain (usually its pressed automatically by a pin on the film back, but that pin stay retracted after firing the shot). Do you have any idea what could be the problem?
Great videos! Very informative!
Please, give me an advice... I bought Leica Summilux-50 ASPH. and it has slight front focus issue along all focusing distances. Is it complex procedure to fine tune focus? I mean is too much to disassemble in the lens to make this adjustments? Thanks a lot!
I am trying to repair my Mamiya 645 Pro TL. I followed your instructions and removed all of the screws and rings but I can't seem to take off the piece on the winder side of the body. It is incredibly stuck and I find myself damaging the body taking it off. It seems very easy in your (and other people's) video. Could there be an additional piece on a TL? Any suggestions? Thank you for your video!
Hey Kenneth,
I'm having issues with the shutter timings of my M645 1000S. Times are off a lot (more than double). I have read the service manual and did some online searching already. I replaced capacitor C2 already and tried changing the speed with the potentiometer but although it does change the speed, the change is not enough. I think I will need to replace capacitor C1 too, but I cannot find the values for that anywhere... Any chance you came across this issue and know the fix or the value of C1? :)
I Just bumped into your channel while searching, and I love how you take the time to record these video tutorials, making repairing stuff easier for others!
From a reddit thread : "C1 is a leaded tantalum capacitor marked "2.2 J20". the capacitor has a polarity so pay attention when you desolder the old one and put the new one (I used a 2.2μF 35V one) in in the same orientation.
Information on C2 is more easily found online but for completeness sake: C2 is a radial electrolytic capacitor with a value of 470μF and rated at 6.3V "
@@dantexavier7842 haha, that's my post :D
@@Olli4 No way hahaha, did it solve your shutter speed issues? I plan on trying to fix it myself as well. Where did you get your capacitors?
My 645 pro TL after being idle for a year or so started not operating the shutter but after playing around with it I noticed if I pressed again a second time and perhaps a little more firmly it would work but some times I first hear a softer sounding click then I press again and it goes off OK. I'll try your suggestion and see if this resolves this issue. thanks
Hello Kenneth,
Thank you for the video. You are always a great help. I have a Mamiya 645 1000s. It works great. I did some successful repairs on it. Except the shutter is slow. Every shutter speed is actually one stop slower than the shutter setting. 1/60 sec is actually 1/30 and at 4 seconds setting the shutter opens 8 seconds. (I used the Photoplug app. For measuring.) Is there any cure ? cleaning the solenoid ? Or is the a alternative replacement solenoid you now off ?
Regards Wilma
It looks like there is something out of alingment, it could be the exposure knob (shutter setting..) that is not correct assmbled. Just some ideas.
Instead of calling this video "Shutter Problem", he should've called it "Release Problem" - He actually worked on the "Release Magnet"...
Your issue sounds like the 'OTHER' magnet; the 2nd Curtain magnet (it also requires cleaning). This 2nd magnet is used for the timing & variation of speeds...
Tank you both. I will try to look in it again. Wat I found in an earlier repair, was that a curtain ribbon was misaligned. And did not run correct on the top axle/pulley. This improved the highest shutter speed.
Best regards, Wilma
Thank you
Dear Mike I have a problem in my RZ67 ... how can I show the problem to you and maybe get your advise ?
Well, you can just make a video and share it with other people here on RUclips.
Do you offer cleaning services for Canon nFD lenses? I've been looking through your older videos where you show how to clean them, however I do not have all the tools and am willing to pay to have someone clean them!
Hi Mike
Will you upload video with other disassembly of the other side ? Where the hot shoe located ?
Hey I just dropped my Mamiya 645 pro and everything seems to work except the shutter cocking. The winder just spins. Any ideas?
Yes. It may be shutter brake not in sync. I got mine with similar problem and fixed it in one evening
is there some way of contactiong you?. i have a 18-200 and a 70-300 nikon, both has a problem with VR. when turning on. it goes klong klong klong klong... and then dont work. if i hold the shutterrelease, and turn on power, the VR works, if i let go... klong klong.... i se many has this problem, but no help enywhere...
you know the why?
I have a question about an older video of yours. I took apart my Canon 50mm 1.2 ltm lens and got it back together using both your videos on this lens. However, you skipped over putting the infinity lock back on the lens. I am baffled how to do this. Can you please help?
I am desperate
Hi Mike, I have a like new Mamiya 645 pro. Battery light stays on and shutter works fine but the light meter in the prism finder and auto-winder is not working. Any idea where my problem is?
I would look for bad connection between the prism and the camera body use a "glass brush" to clean the small contacts points/pins, of course there could also be a bad wire or the circuit board. Just some ideas.
Hi Mike, thanks for the video, i have the same problem on my Mamiya 645 pro, in two technicians I took said that only changing the Solenoid to solve it.
Is it possible to use Solenoid from any other mamiya or does it need to be exactly a mamiya 645 pro?
As I am in Brazil it is already difficult to find people who fix it and who will charge me a fair price.
If the solenoid is the same from another Mamiya camera, and it 's the same voltage, it should work. But you could also just try to clean the 2 solenoid's that's in the camera, to see if it will work or not.
@@mikeno62 i'll be try to do this :)
Thank you so much
Hi Mike, there is Pentax 67 II with Error 20, can you fix it, and how can i write to you ?
Hi.. do you have a video on the Nikon 17-55 f2.8 lens
Sorry, but no.
Hey Mike, I got a Mamiya 645 Super, the problem is that some of the shutter speed are totally off & inaccurate. Any ideas? Can it be fixed?
Hi, long time since this comment but did you find a solution? I am having the exact same problem in a 645 super I just got in
hello! do you do repairs??
Is this the same problem with a few D700 ?
I don't know.
AS Wrist bands are NOT needed for camera repairs except modern ones with PCBs and you should have a body cap fitted AND a back cover for the shutter, you have NO idea
thanks can i see your video of a 645 repair instead you sound like a real professional