2006-2012 Ford Fusion: Front Pads and Rotors Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Come along as we show you how to change pads and rotors on your 2006-2012 Ford Fusion or Mercury Milan. It's much easier than you think, I will show you how!
These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Front Rotors-
amzn.to/2oZ1U7Z
Front Pad Set-
amzn.to/2oFRirG
Brake Caliper Grease-
amzn.to/2pYb4jd
Anti-Seize-
amzn.to/2oplKdL
Blue Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2ptLEgo
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2oEV7ww
Torque Specs:
Caliper Bracket 15mm Bolts- 66ftlbs
Caliper to Bracket Bolts- 20ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts- 100ft lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job:
Front Rotors-
amzn.to/2oZ1U7Z
Front Pad Set-
amzn.to/2oFRirG
Brake Caliper Grease-
amzn.to/2pYb4jd
Anti-Seize-
amzn.to/2oplKdL
Blue Medium Strength Loctite-
amzn.to/2ptLEgo
Cat Claw-
amzn.to/2oEV7ww
Torque Specs:
Caliper Bracket 15mm Bolts- 66ftlbs
Caliper to Bracket Bolts- 20ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts- 100ft lbs
FordTechMakuloco Can you please do a how to on the rear brakes? That would be awesome. As always thanks for the valuable info
Tried this link for the coated rotors and Amazon keeps sending the non coated, BRR-295
I wish we had mechanics like you in my country. Owning a Ford here feels like you live on the moon. Nobody goes through all this length to fix your car. You're very meticulous. Great job.
I had 2006 Fusion SEL (bought in Nov 05) and didn't replace OEM brakes until 100K miles when getting new tires. The pads still had 10K of life in them. That was a great car. Replaced front wheel bearings around 100K, starter at 140K, Struts around 120K, trans fluid every 50K miles. Other than that no repairs. My first new car and it was a great one. I traded it in at 165K miles toward 2016 F150. Love my truck.
That’s crazy how you say that cuz my fusion hot 140k and I had to replace the starter haha very accurate
Your video setup is great! Lots of proper light, good angles and, most importantly, the camera is not jerking around like other mechanic videos. You have been a good source of information for my 2006 Ford Fusion. And I appreciate the way you clearly explain the details.
Finally someone dealing with a rusted up rotor similar to what we see in here in Michigan on every brake job!
Yup that is why I left in the fight to help others in real world situations with my techniques I have learned over the years.
Nick Palmer Nebraska rotors can suck real bad my air hammer is my best friend for rattling the rotors off
Nick Palmer yup air hammer for the win! Takes off the rotor in seconds
I have had to cut a slit in the hat of the rotor to remove them. Just to give them room to expand some.
We have rust issues like this in the coastal regions of Alaska. Glad to see someone sharing the techniques that work well for rusted rotors like that. I've had really good luck whacking the area between the lug studs to get stuck rotors or drums off. No need for a noisy air hammer.
You're the man! Hard to find a good video these days with someone who is knowledgable and to the point with good camera angles and proper details highlighted throughout! Made my day much easier after watching this!!
This video brought to you by ACDelco... lol
Seriously, found this after looking for a video for changing my 2011 Fusion's brakes. The first one was... short. Felt like a lot of information was skipped. Watched this and, indeed, there was. Using this as my guide, cuz nicely done, to the point but seriously informative and a easy to follow. Thank you!
Glad to see that I am not the only one having a hard time with the brake hardware, I would love to meet the mastermind behind that setup.
Mastermind is right. You wouldn’t want a dumbass designing your brakes, right?
Best video on RUclips for this job! Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Fantastic video. Best step-by-step I've seen on this topic and the filming is 1st rate! I just did my Mercury Milan's front brakes and followed this to the 'T'. Thanks for the clear instructions!
Your channel is the best ive seen for Mechanical Procedures, know how and walkthrough step by step for the entire process!! Thanks and keep it up~!
Awesome video! Saved me some unnecessary headaches and helped me get the right tools for the job!
Great Video. Very informative and your camera work was impeccable. I feel much more confident tackling this DIY repair. Thank you!!
'06 fusion lasted 160K miles before replacing the pads and rotors. Yes, quite a bit of highway miles, BUT, that route was the same route I drove for years before owning that Fusion. Brakes on that car were INCREDIBLE. Even when I replaced the pads and rotors they had life left in them. The 2nd set of pads are still on that car at 220K miles and are in awesome shape (ceramics as well).
Those Torx rotor retaining screws, try “shocking” them by putting the Torx bit on the screws and give them a sharp crack with a hand sledge. Seems to work every time for me.
The impact does the same thing.
amazing so many tips and clear so easy to understand thank you
Best brake video hands down
Be careful when using an air/electric impact wrench on those T40 rotor bolts. I sheared off a $40 T40 bit by using an air impact. Pieces of metal went everywhere. I typically use a hand impact wrench and a hammer. Just make sure to use eye protection with a 3/8 or 1/4" air/electric impact. Those things get stuck sometimes. Great video, Brian! I'll use this as a reference when I change our 2010 Fusion fronts.
Yeah you would think so but I hit the trigger just right not full throttle so I have only broken 1 in my career and that was on a Hyundai! Go figure.
ReclusiveMountainMan what I use is this amzn.com/B000GTJHO0 works great with an air hammer and doesn't ruin or strip the heads.
Michael,
Nice find. Thanks for sharing. This is typically what I use:
www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493111557&sr=8-3&keywords=hand+impact+wrench
@@FordTechMakulocohi, I purchased front disc brake rotord from ford itself however it came without screw holes for T40. I contacted them and said that this is the modified one. Will that be okay to I install this modified ones? Thanks
I watched a similar video before this one, he said the caliper bolts torque should be 25 ft. lbs,., and the bracket bolts should be 35 ft. lbs.for a 2012 Ford Fusion, yet I think your spec of 66 ft. lbs. on the bracket bolt seems more sensible. So maybe all things aren't the same for these FoMoCo cars 2006-2012? This whole video is very good, I can see you are very knowledgeable and talented, thanks for sharing!
Very helpful video. Nice camera work.
Great instructional video. I just changed the brakes and rotors on my 2012 Ford Fusion. No problems! Thanks
Thanks great video,good camera work
You are a true pro, and you explain everything perfectly. Thanks!
I'm glad I live in a state that doesn't salt the roads six months out of the year. I can work on a 13 year old car that's still fairly clean underneath.
One problem I found as I was removing the top caliper bracket was that on my 17mm wrench the head was too wide so it wasn’t able to fit properly on the nut, so for anyone else be sure you have an open ended wrench thin enough to fit on the nut itself. Otherwise great video man thanks!
That is a Ford or somebody after Ford tinkering with your car
I use needle nose vise grips because my wrenches usually do not fit.
I tackled this job today and made it a point to modify one of my 17mm wrenches (using a bench grinder) to thin it enough to fit properly on the retaining "nut" that is part of the caliper slide. Doing this once, properly, ensures that I will always have a wrench that fits the caliper hardware. In the past, I've "butchered" the nut with a thin vice grip, but I prefer to do things "properly..." ;-)
Good video sr. You have video to remplace of rear break pads and rotors.
While I don't own a Fusion, this was a great video. When I do the front brake job on my 03 Town Car, I'll be sure to follow similar principles. 41K original miles, from FL, and the steering wheel could shake your teeth out if you hold on haha.
this guy just ROCKS! I give him thumbs up before even watching his videos!
+Quality Reno Wow Thanks!
He is my go-to guy for all my vehicle repairs. I learn from all of his videos. Even though I don't like working on my own anymore, sometimes I must.
I need him to do a video on the 2010 Fusion sunroof mechanism, won't close w/o hand cranking. (It's my daughters car) Dealer told her total replacement of assembly - $1700. I told her stop using it. ( :
Excellent tutorial
Brian.. when we compress the Caliper Piston, Brake Fluid goes back to the reservoir. Usually it's ok to do but my Senior Workmate told we must not do this practice on German Vehicles (especially BMW, MINI, Mercedes). It locks the ABS Unit and we have to do some right/wrong efforts to bring it normal condition. While Lexus vehicles generate Check Engine Light when we compress Caliper Piston.
I used to see them Bleeding Brake Fluid through Bleeder point on Caliper when compress the Caliper Piston.
please share your thoughts
I use the same type clamp to push the piston in some before removing the caliper, makes it much easier to remove especially if the pads have the pegs on them that get hung on the inside of the piston.
Excellent tutorial, best on youtube!
Brian do you recommend using copper brake grease or anti seize sparingly on the ears of the pads and the metal hardware clips to lubricate pad movement? I noticed you installed them dry. As always really enjoy your attention to detail.
You are a good teacher.
Another great video bud! Really enjoy your vids they are life saving👌🏻
Thank you for an excellent video!
I'm getting ready to replace my front and rear, Rotors and Brake Pads. Is there a break in method to set the rotors and pads. Thanks for your help.
Is there one for rear pads and rotors?
Quick question, why wouldn't you recommend the AutoZone Duralast rotors? I am about to replace the rotors and pads with a PowerStop kit for my 2008 Fusion but first saw the Duralast as an option.
Hello, this is a great video that you made. I have a 2012 Fusion, and I just ordered all the materials you mentioned. One question I have is, do have to break the new pads and rotors in. Like drive a little bit and brake hard, then repeat a couple of times.
Could you please do a video on brakes for a late model Mustang? I have a 2011 and the pads have a lot of life but it sounds like the calipers are sqeaking (if I'm sitting stationary and press the brake, you can hear them squeak as they clamp down). The internet has told me it's just lack of lube on the pins but I figured it would be a good time to change the pads while I was in there. Love your videos!
What about the MKZ? Same part numbers?
Awesome video! Super helpful. Question: Is it possible for the bracket that holds the brake line to rust and squeeze the hose - preventing the full release of pressure when you release the brake pedal?
Great job.
I have a 2012 Ford fusion with 95 thousand miles and I have the original brake pads running!...I'm just now going to do a brake job this weekend because there just now at that point!...is it normal to get 95 thousand miles on the original brakes??
Awesome video! But why put anti seize under the anti rattle clips and not on them.? I don't put it under as I don't see it having a purpose, and put it on them to insure the pads move freely.
I have found anti-seize gets gummy over time so I never use it where the pads ride. I actually don't put anything where the pads ride if they have these clips its best to leave them dry and clean like they come from the factory. Now if they don't have clips and ride on the bare metal of the bracket like some Ford do I use silicone grease. The reason I put anti-seize under the clips is to prevent the very reason you are in there cleaning them off in the first place. Water and salt get trapped under the clip rotting out the bare metal bracket causing them to "grow" and seize the pads. I have a whole video on this concern called are your brakes dragging? It explains it much more.
Thanks! way better that Haynes or Chilton. I saved at least $100.
Wonderful Freegod Thanks
Thank you for this video
Can you make a video on sway bar bushing replacement on 2011 fusion se 2.5 fwd?
Brian hi grate video I really enjoyed watching it and as always learn something new from all of them. I did not see a link for those hooks that you used to hold up the caliper
love your videos ford should pay u
You should also note that the lincoln mkz should be in with the other two as well they all three have interchangeable parts
great video as always!!!enjoy watching it
Dam torx screws, got one out, broke the freaking bit off In the second one, great thinking Ford, didn’t even get a corner done because we can’t get these ridiculous torx screws out
That's because someone like this guy used an impact gun to tighten them up, finger tight people or leave them out altogether.
hey fordmakuloco, what is a better buy? 2010 ford fusion or 2010 mercury milan? i love both but have a hard time choosing which is a better buy on the long run
Same car but the Milan just has more items to fail over time. Kind of like then the Lincoln versions of the Ford models the Lincolns were always breaking down compared to the Ford version of the same model.
FordTechMakuloco thank you for your honest opinion
What brand T40 torx bit? Most say every brand of impact torx bits tends to fail with impact wrench usage. I have 1/2” drive corded impact.
Does the pin with the rubber boot go on the top or bottom?
My slider pins were rusted in real bad and needed vise grip with a twisting motion to pull them off , I'm replacing them but don't remember where they go. The two pins are different but both go in any hole . Can you explain which one goes where and why they are different.
Thanks for the video! I hate rust 😡
That Milwaukee impact is a beast though.
In your experience, what is the life difference between motor craft pads and rotors vs the auto parts top of the line?
Top of the line rotors like Bosch are close but for the same price. Now when it comes to pads I always use Motorcraft since they organic pads so they are nice and quiet. If the customer does not want the dust I use Wagner thermoquiet pads only.
I have a 2010 Fusion with 120K miles but the brakes have never been done. They are close to needing it though. I know the front rotors may have a bit of warpage based on the way it stops at slow speed with a bit of stutter. I've been hearing a rotational noise from the front left wheel just when driving, new tires and alignment didn't change the noise. Dealer checked and said "They couldn't hear it" but said the wheel bearings and suspension seem solid. The noise does seem to vary in a curve either way. Could worn pads and rotors cause that type of rotation noise? I guess if the rotors and pads were replaced and I still hear it that might indicate a wheel bearing issue? Just wondering your thoughts. Thanks!
I’m about to do a brake job on my wife’s 2012 fusion. It has 87k miles is it best to do the front and back pads and rotors or just the front at this point? Thanks for all your help awesome videos
My opinion is the front brakes do the lion's share of the work. Do them first. Inspect the rear brakes and compare pad thickness. The rear brake pads will show less wear and you might feel comfortable about not replacing them.
Black sheep well I just wanted to update anyone wondering the same thing. Her rear pads were worn more than the front. She had 93k miles when I changed the originals out and probably could have went another 10k miles. The fronts are good until I’d guess 120k. She has at least 20k more until i change the fronts. What’s weird is she does a lot of stop and go city traffic miles and these pads were in great shape. 👍🏼 does anyone know if the rear bolts are the same torque specs? The bracket bolt is a 13mm, I torqued it to 66ft/lbs seemed kinda high. 20ft/lbs on the caliper bolts
Is it common to have a little smoke from the brakes after installing them
i have noticed some brake pads, even high end brands can fit tight even after removing all the rust. i have have to grind a bit off the ends so they slide easy in the brackets. it pays to buy high end ceramics as they last along time compared to good quality pads. of course they are hard on rotors but they seem to warp or rust out no matter what.
smoke skull use manufacture spec pads unless you change to rotors designed for ceramic pads.
Nice job, great video!
Thank God we don't rust like that over here in WESTTEXAS! !! 😂😂😥
I have video of doing a 2010 fusion and all four rotors where way way worse to get off then yours. I would recommend to put anti seize on the lip of the hub to try and stop the rust from the rotor growing and seizing to the hub. It will make removal way easier during the next brake job.
what kind of brake fluid should I use motorcraft or one in a auto store ?
Good video, just took forever for that rotor to come off LOL
Mine is so seized that I thought the spindle nut is still holding the rotor onto the hub! Thanks to this video I now know tomorrow I should do serious heavy pounding and not worry about having to remove the spindle nut.
Good stuf
I have to do front brakes on my 08 f-150 soon. What do you recommend to use for rotors and pads brand wise? I'm going to do calipers as well.
Hello. Could you help me?? I have a 1997 Mondeo. With 2.5 V6 SEA Engine. I have to replace the timing chains, the tensioners and guides. The problem is that the price of these parts in Europe exceeds the value of the car twice. How much do these parts cost you? Sorry for my English
I think I put my smaller clips on wrong will it matter?
Front caliper piston- if the piston does rotate within the caliper, is that okay? Is it also okay to use the same brake grease for the caliper pin bolts?
Should I open the brake master reservoir before I start anything then?
Hi, how are you? I follow your channel and I need your help. I'm sorry, my English, I'm learning and using an electronic translator. I live in Canada and I have a 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer and his headlight on the automatic is not erasing. Not turned off and the lights do not go off. When I put it in the low beacon and the automatic the mile-light goes off and only comes back on if I pull the button, as it is meant to be. can you help me?
no grease on the pad ears?
What are the power tools that you used and what was that screw part that you used to take off the two screws off the router?
My 2007 Fusion 3.0 had warped rotors all the time! Can’t figure it out what causes it
air hammer saves a lot of time with that
I tend to have control issues with the air hammer damaging the studs plus with a few good whacks with the camera out of the way it can be done pretty quick.
FordTechMakuloco
Have you been in a new Continental? How reliable do you think those electronic door latches will be?
i am thinking of purchasing a 2017 ford fusion sport..... is that a good power plant? will that last me a can it handle mods i.e. bigger intercooler and more boost etc
DOES THE SLIDER PIN WITH THE RUBBER GO ON TOP OR ON THE BOTTOM, I MIXED THEN UP.
Will brake pads for 4 cylinder fit on 6 cylinder mercury Milan?
The front brakes on our Fusion makes a almost grinding noise the first two or three times I mash them but after that they makes no sound at all. This happens after the car has been turn off and parked for just a little while. It only happens when I mash the brakes the first two or three times.i have taken them apart, put new pads on and put them back together just the way they came out. Do you have any idea what it could possibly be?
Bcroft39 Normal condition, they start to get surface rust on them from sitting and you using them for the first 10 minutes or so of driving clears it of that and thus the noise goes away
Mine does it over night when it rains
I can’t get the top bolt and slide to go in far enough for the caliper to go over it ????? Any suggestions
JUST PUSH IT IN WITH YOUR FINGERS AND SLIDE THE CALIPER OVER
Anyone know which guide pin goes top or bottom? There is no information in the service manual.
What TQ wrenches do you use?
on these cars what percentage of the braking is done by the front vs. rear?
Justin Tarvid when you hit the brakes with your foot, you are using the front, the emergency break is what controls the rear. Hope this helped
Mickdoodle Wrong. The foot brake operates both front and rear brakes. The handbrake operates the rear brake only.
Wish I had watched this before paying a shop to install new pads and rotors on a 2006 focus. Close to $600 and they put pink grease all over backside of pads and on bracket where pads slide in, doesn't seem right
Great video, but I would recommend to NOT replace the small rotor/flange screws. Those do nothing but help the assembly line put wheels on so that the rotor doesn't move. It serves no additional purpose but is the source of many headaches when they rust and strip when trying to remove them later.
what model Battery Milwaukee are you using in this video?
I use the compact 1/2" from Milwaukee- amzn.to/2oykTaA
Thank you !
Why not antiseize on the studs?
Anti seize will actually take away some of the clamping force the lug nuts can apply to the wheel. I wouldn't have believed it if I had not seen the demonstration. Clean the threads so you can turn the lug nut on by hand all the way easily. Then apply 1 or 2 drops of 30 weight oil on the wheel studs. This will ensure that all the torque you are applying to the lug nut is being translated into clamping force. Some say no oil, some say a few drops is ok. I prefer a few drops on clean threads. I'm fine with no oil on new studs but feel that as the threads wear, oil is needed to allow for most clamping force although I have no data to back this claim.
They taught us in automotive school to use antiseize and to change the torque setting when we have used the antiseize. I was wondering what his reason for saying no was.
google and you will find a video showing the reason. Torque specs are for DRY lug nuts. Torquing to specs (dry) puts a 60% shear stress on the lugs. Using the same torque, with antisieze increases the shear stress by 50% (from 60 to 90%). If you end up slightly overtorquing, when using antisieze, you can be placing the lugs beyond their stress thresholds, causing problems. I've never used anti-sieze, and never had a lug nut sieze. I'm not a mechanic by trade, but probably remove on average a wheel every two-three days (backyard mechanic.)
What gloves are you using?
These are the gloves I have been using recently and they are amazing- amzn.to/2qcSjIs
Ever get that funding from Ford?
Buddy your damaging that rotor by hitting it with that hammer in the back part of it. It has the same smooth part like in the front. Use a rubber hammer better or use a half inch longer screw and the disc will come out by it self. Like that you wont have to damage your new brakes pads with a scratched damaged rotor.
He very clearly explains since he is replacing the rotors, it's ok to use the metal hammer. Obviously if you were reusing the rotors you would use a rubber mallet.
I just watched one of your earlier videos of doing brakes.. you said never ever put anti-seize on that flange because it will work out to the lugs studs!! You may want to go back and remove that video.
I would say very slight chance of that happening enough to get into the threads inside the lug nut and cause possibility of nut coming loose. Also, I know this is an excellent, very comprehensive how-to video, he is very knowledgeable and talented.
This excellent how -to video has helped me much with my seized rotor problem. Yet I'm thinking the good of anti-seize far outweighs the risk of lug nuts loosening with anti-seize on them. I've been using anti-seize on lug nuts for decades, and tightening the lug nuts tight enough, (not overtightening & galling the threads) and have never, ever had a lug nut come loose for me. I saw a wheel get loose on my Granddaughter's car last month and it had no anti-seize at all on it's lug nuts. I have, however seen many lug nuts that had no anti-seize not be able to be loosened, seen seized lug nuts strip out the lugs in the holes they are splined into in the wheel hub. And I am just talking about corrosion seizing, not galled threads from over tightening or cross threading. There are still some of us who don't call Triple A when they have a flat tire and if Triple A or whatever emergency road service can't get the lug nuts off, they just tow the car back to a garage to have it dealt with, there are some of us with flats who still jack our cars up out there at night, in the winter, in bad neighborhoods and depend on our lug nuts not seizing on us. I could go on and on about the advantages of anti-seize on threads, but I just want to say, I'm not disputing the possibility of nuts loosening because they have had anti-seize or some other lubricant on them. I'm just thinking that the definite benefits make it worth the risk of lug nuts loosening. I'm sure there must have been some fatal accidents due to wheel lug nuts coming loose, but I can't help but wonder if the nuts were torqued down properly. But I suppose almost everyone else would say that it would be better to deal with seized lug nuts even out on the road trying to change a flat, then have a wheel come off while driving because the lugs were lubed with anti-seize and the nuts were not tightened properly. It's frustrating to me how some things can be both good and bad, like LED headlights. For the LED headlight car's driver, they are a boon for night safety. But for the oncoming drivers, especially the older drivers, they create a safety hazard, almost blinding them. But here, the good outweighs the bad, right?
Weirdo Shims
the clips and springs for the brake pads on this car are the dumbest thing i've ever seen.
I just going to jump in there with the caliper? You didn't even show us taking the tire off or nothing I need to see all of that, I'm not even sure where the caliber is yet. Not a very good instructor