Thanks for making another great video for our cars. You might want to add that the rotors are directional and maybe suggest to use a thread locker for the caliper bolts. 👍🏻
Great suggestion on the thread locker. I didn’t want to call out the directional rotors because this applies to nearly all Camaro’s, and ONLY the SS 1LE has directional rotors. The standard SS, ZL1, ZL1 1LE and BCD equipped cars do not. I didn’t want to add confusion, but I should have called it out in the video. I will pin this comment for others to see!
Another great video. The place that I've found that can benefit from using a little dab of anti seize is on that rotor torx screw. It likes to get stuck.
Great video as always Luan! Love the content! You know this helped me out when I get to getting to changing my rotors out! I’m also looking at your garage! I may take your epoxy floor design and wall color 😂
Thanks! These rotors are coming full circle, as they are the ones I bought from you THREE YEARS AGO!!! 😅 Let me know when you are ready to talk flooring. Epoxy tends to pickup and peel over time. This flooring is polyaspartic. About 3x more durable than standard epoxy.
Amazon. Seemed to have the best prices. All of the links for the front and rear rotors are in the description. SS 1LE, ZL1 and ZL1 1LE and BCD are all listed.
Great question! I actually have a video showing how to check the rotors and the thickness with all the minimum specs, etc., here: ruclips.net/video/mwO0McxySKw/видео.html
No, I do not. Rotor to pad change should be 2:1 or 3:1. The rotors on the SS 1LE, ZL1, and ZL1 1LE are incredibly stout. These lasted almost 15,000 miles with hard and heavy track abuse. Honestly, I could have run them for a few more months and another track weekend, but decided to play it safe and swap them before my next track weekend.
@@FollowMyLine17 I can kind of understand what your saying. But that would make bedding in the new rotors even more important. But I don't think that was mentioned. Also explaining a visual inspection of the pads would be beneficial if doing a rotor swap without a pad change. Friends dont let friends warp rotors😋 It was a good video. Just felt a bit unfinished at the end there
@christianslense455 thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep it in mind for future videos. I do have a separate video for pad change as well, and another video on inspecting rotors for heat checking and crazing. It’s nearly impossible to warp a modern day rotor. What most people think are warped rotors end up being pad deposits, so I’m not worried about a warped rotor on a high-quality modern-day OEM rotor.
I assume you mean the calipers. Whenever I bleed the fluid, I let a wooden toothpick soak in the bleeder valve for a while. This prevents the fluid from seeping over onto a scorching hot rotor during track days, and turning them brown. I also have them ceramic coated, which helps keep them clean easier.
@@FollowMyLine17 ahhh!! you're 100% right I'm sorry! Thank you for correcting me! I would also say, if it's the first time taking the calipers off, you might need a breaker bar and pole because the factory thread locker on there is no freaking joke. At least on mine, that's what I had to do. I ended up sonicating the bolts to break up the thread locker in acetone.
@followmyline17 I just noticed you have a typo on the toque specs @ 7:22 . You say 111lb-in and not lb-ft. The 150nm is still correct. Lol it threw me off.
Thanks for making another great video for our cars. You might want to add that the rotors are directional and maybe suggest to use a thread locker for the caliper bolts. 👍🏻
Great suggestion on the thread locker. I didn’t want to call out the directional rotors because this applies to nearly all Camaro’s, and ONLY the SS 1LE has directional rotors. The standard SS, ZL1, ZL1 1LE and BCD equipped cars do not. I didn’t want to add confusion, but I should have called it out in the video. I will pin this comment for others to see!
Another great video. The place that I've found that can benefit from using a little dab of anti seize is on that rotor torx screw. It likes to get stuck.
Yeah, that little bugger can be tricky sometimes.
Nice, you always make it look SO easy. 😂
Haha! It’s all in the editing! 😅
Great video! Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks!
Great video as always Luan! Love the content! You know this helped me out when I get to getting to changing my rotors out! I’m also looking at your garage! I may take your epoxy floor design and wall color 😂
Thanks! These rotors are coming full circle, as they are the ones I bought from you THREE YEARS AGO!!! 😅 Let me know when you are ready to talk flooring. Epoxy tends to pickup and peel over time. This flooring is polyaspartic. About 3x more durable than standard epoxy.
Great vid!
Thank you!
Were did you get your rotors from thanks for the video
Amazon. Seemed to have the best prices. All of the links for the front and rear rotors are in the description. SS 1LE, ZL1 and ZL1 1LE and BCD are all listed.
Last question. Are the side marker lights replacements, or did you tint the stock lights?
They are LED replacements. Plug and play, no cutting or splicing. Here is the link:
amzn.to/42RBzJ2
What min. pad thickness do you usually look for before change?
Great question! I actually have a video showing how to check the rotors and the thickness with all the minimum specs, etc., here: ruclips.net/video/mwO0McxySKw/видео.html
do you replace your rotors with every pad change ?
He definitely didn’t. SS 1LE rotors last many more track days than the pads do.
No, I do not. Rotor to pad change should be 2:1 or 3:1. The rotors on the SS 1LE, ZL1, and ZL1 1LE are incredibly stout. These lasted almost 15,000 miles with hard and heavy track abuse. Honestly, I could have run them for a few more months and another track weekend, but decided to play it safe and swap them before my next track weekend.
Where did you get those rock guards?
Those are the ZL1 Addons Deluxe guards, and the C7 Z06 fender flares.
@@FollowMyLine17 how come you didn't use the SS guards. Just curious?
@Wheelman6.2 great question. The ZL1 Addons deluxe guards match the Z06 flares better.
22mm lug nuts or 7/8 inch lug nuts ?
OEM lugs are M14x1.5/22mm. 7/8 fits, but leaves the slightest bit of play. Over time, it can round off the lugs. 7/8 is more like 22.2mm
@@FollowMyLine17 Now i tried both and curiously the 7/8 fit better (more tight) although the 7/8 should be bigger (22,225mm)
@OMPTraxxs in theory alone, the 22mm shouldn’t fit at all if it were a 7/8ths lug nut. Food for thought.
You do a rotor change and leave old brake pads on? That is a 1st
I have several sets of pads. I swap pads for street and track use, so the pads still have around 75% of their life left. No need to swap them yet.
@@FollowMyLine17 I can kind of understand what your saying. But that would make bedding in the new rotors even more important. But I don't think that was mentioned. Also explaining a visual inspection of the pads would be beneficial if doing a rotor swap without a pad change. Friends dont let friends warp rotors😋 It was a good video. Just felt a bit unfinished at the end there
@christianslense455 thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep it in mind for future videos. I do have a separate video for pad change as well, and another video on inspecting rotors for heat checking and crazing. It’s nearly impossible to warp a modern day rotor. What most people think are warped rotors end up being pad deposits, so I’m not worried about a warped rotor on a high-quality modern-day OEM rotor.
Why are your rotors so perfectly red 😫😭😍
I assume you mean the calipers. Whenever I bleed the fluid, I let a wooden toothpick soak in the bleeder valve for a while. This prevents the fluid from seeping over onto a scorching hot rotor during track days, and turning them brown. I also have them ceramic coated, which helps keep them clean easier.
@@FollowMyLine17 yeah that’s what I mean. Very clean.
@IronLrdVader thanks!
Torque specs on the caliper bolts? *Edit: He covers it in the video. I'm dumb.
I cover all of the torque specs in the video. The front and rear are different, so make sure you are looking at the correct caliper in the vid.
@@FollowMyLine17 ahhh!! you're 100% right I'm sorry! Thank you for correcting me!
I would also say, if it's the first time taking the calipers off, you might need a breaker bar and pole because the factory thread locker on there is no freaking joke. At least on mine, that's what I had to do.
I ended up sonicating the bolts to break up the thread locker in acetone.
@followmyline17 I just noticed you have a typo on the toque specs @ 7:22 . You say 111lb-in and not lb-ft.
The 150nm is still correct. Lol it threw me off.
@Stinkie_Cheese_Man thanks for catching that. It’s definitely lb-ft like I state. It’s just the pop-up that is incorrect.