I was using titanium shims because they came with the car, but I wouldn't have bought them on my own. I went back to the full-sized front pads, so the Girodisc shims didn't work.
@@davidciesielski8251 I meant full width pads, the titanium shims were shaped like the smaller pad. The full width Hawk pad has some pegs on the back that wouldn't work with the shim. I could have ground them down, but I don't think the shims provide a tangible benefit.
Hey, thanks for the video comparison..., it was informative when you are on a shoestring budget. Just purchased some pads from you guys, and needed to learn more about the rotors on my Caddy BW. I'd been leaning to the Giro rotors when I have to replace them, but now it seems the DBA's might be the better choice, even though I don't track...., but I'm pretty heavy on it on I95. : )
It's interesting to see your experience. I'm running the girodisc rotors (and dtc-60s) on my ZL1 as well for a year now, though street and just a few track days. Both the OEMs and girodiscs have been fine, I thought the smaller area would be an issue but the performance is great. Now that you ran DBAs, how does it compare? Funnily enough I have heard people who have had bad experience with DBA and swear by girodisc as well. I just wanted the lightest option personally. A custom cut pad could theoretically be run on girodisc losing much less surface area and helping with taper.
I don't have the dimensions of the SS 1LE rotors, but durability will be lower if face thickness is smaller. I personally wouldn't invest in the hats, especially on the rear to run Girodisc. Unless you are going for NASA or TT lap times. Maybe @followmyline17 can chime in for the SS 1LE options.
Great video. To solve the cracking issue go to gloc r10. If you're doing time attack r8 is good. If doing more than 3 hot laps r12. R16 will kill rotors like hawk 70s I was killing rotors with hawk 70s. I'm running r12 and just all around better pads. I'm c7z so a little lighter. I kept replacing with stock rotors but the c7z has the same size as the Giro disc stock. So the Giro is actually better than oem in that size. But camaro down sizes to c7z when switching to Giro. Thanks again for the video
The pads are only a few bucks cheaper. I was getting bad enough front pad tapper that I was rotating pads every track event with the Girodisc. I'm hoping to have less tapper going back to the full-size pads.
Awesome video. Really shows the differences in the manufacturers despite them all looking like 'big rings of iron'... I see where the extra $$ comes in on the Giros; getting to that weight/performance ratio is definitely hypercar engineering ...however I also see where DBA shines. I'm curious about the performance benefits 'on track', at the end of the day the rotors are also part of a system - wonder how the brake points/lap times differed?
I did not notice major performance benefits with the rotor ring changes. Obviously, less rotational mass will have some benefit. Unless you are racing in competition, then reliability and lower costs should be the primary consideration. I did notice more pad taper with the Girodisc than the DBA or factory rotors, which leads to premature pad replacement.
Those DBA are absolute tanks. Would rather run those than giro’s. I ran giros on my c7z and they had uneven heat issues if I didn’t slowly warm them up I think because they were thinner and cooled off faster on long straights
I'm not sure if you know but there is actually a another company out there that makes a kit for our cars and there are called electron motorsports based in Mooresville North Carolina and they actually have two-piece front and rears I've been looking into them and I will try to get more information but I've been considering this as an upgrade due to the two-piece designed for the rears
Thank you for the great video! Can I ask a question, but please excuse my incompetence. I need to replace brake rotors and pads on a Lexus GX460 and I am considering upgrading to DBA slotted rotors for greater braking. However some say they experience vibration and noise problems with slotted rotors and also the suspension is suffering more load/stress due to a better bite? Any advice is highly appreciated!
Properly installed pads and rotors should not vibrate. However, high-performance street pads and race pads can cause more brake dust and squeal during street driving when they are below racing temperature. The suspension will not be negatively impacted by improved braking performance.
Thank you for the clear explanation! I think in this case I would go for a more standard slotted rotors. A bit more dust is not a problem, but hearing squeal would be a bit odd if too loud.
I have not watched the entirety of the video throughout but I do have a question, It may have been answered but I noticed You said DBA rotor rings But reusing the OEM hat. Do you know if there's any significant improvement with the DBA hat and rotor kit? For whatever reason it's $50 more KNS brakes has two options for the DBA ring not sure if it's worth an extra $50 or not But that means I would have to buy the DBA kit first just like giro disc
So I watched the rest of the video however I don't think you understand what I'm getting at with my question. There are two products from DBA rotors. Option 1 is just the replacement rotoring utilizing you reusing the factory aluminum hat and that cost $337 per ring Option two, DBA offers a replacement rotor ring but only fits the DBA rotor hat, which means you have to have the full DBA rotor kit in order to use that specific replacement ring. But that specific replacement ring for some reason is $387 My question pertains to is there a specific difference between the rings and do they offer any more durability lightweightness what is it exactly that causes the same replacement rotary ring except utilizing the DBA hat to be $50 more does that make sense?@@RacingforALS
Thanks for your video, it helped me a lot. I ordered DBA 370mm rotors from Australia and can you tell me which exact brake pads you used? I see a link to DTC-60 but which ones are specific to Camaro and DBA 370mm?
Have you used stock rotors with race pads? I would be very curious on the longevity of DBA vs OEM. I had to replace my OEM rotors after 12 track days. 9 of those were at Road America. 6 of the 9 days at Road America were on 1.11s (which I am also moving away from to GLOC. Had a great experience with R16s at NCM.). The other 6 were on OEM pads.
Have you measured the temperature of calipers with each different type of rotor? Which rotor retains less heat, and therefore has better thermal capacity?
I have been running ZL1 1LE factory sized Goodyear 3R's for the last couple of years. I did run a square 305-30-19 RE71R setup for Time Trials on the old car. It increased the oversteer bias and reduced the corner exit traction, so it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. A square setup is much better for maximizing tire life. You may have to adjust alignment and sway bars to get it balanced. I've got too much invested in 19" wheels to experiment.
Support Racing for ALS with a donation and get a hat or shirt 👉👉👉👉👉👉www.racingforals.com/merch
I like the "brake swept area" of the factory rotor/DBA with the factory sized pad. Nice comparison as usual!
Thanks Stephen!
DBA's for me. no issues at all with Hawk DTC-70 pads frt 60s in rear
ZL1 1LE
Good stuff, thanks.
I have a habit of watching any video that RUclips recommends with less than 1000 views. It is my way of helping the smaller channels. Keep it up!
Thanks. We're a small channel for the charity Racing for ALS, and we cover track and tech videos for amateur racers and mechanics.
Hi, do you use the Ti plates between the pad and piston? The copper free, have a different offset and are a little bigger in diameter.
I was using titanium shims because they came with the car, but I wouldn't have bought them on my own. I went back to the full-sized front pads, so the Girodisc shims didn't work.
@@RacingforALS Hi, does that mean full thickness, so they would not fit?
@@davidciesielski8251 I meant full width pads, the titanium shims were shaped like the smaller pad. The full width Hawk pad has some pegs on the back that wouldn't work with the shim. I could have ground them down, but I don't think the shims provide a tangible benefit.
Hey, thanks for the video comparison..., it was informative when you are on a shoestring budget. Just purchased some pads from you guys, and needed to learn more about the rotors on my Caddy BW. I'd been leaning to the Giro rotors when I have to replace them, but now it seems the DBA's might be the better choice, even though I don't track...., but I'm pretty heavy on it on I95. : )
Thanks! Racing for ALS isn't directly affiliated with vendors, but several have donated to our charity auctions or events.
Great job on the comparison! Keep it up!
Thanks! 👍
Great info, Scott. Thx again for sharing!
Thanks for the kind words and supporting the channel!
It's interesting to see your experience.
I'm running the girodisc rotors (and dtc-60s) on my ZL1 as well for a year now, though street and just a few track days. Both the OEMs and girodiscs have been fine, I thought the smaller area would be an issue but the performance is great.
Now that you ran DBAs, how does it compare?
Funnily enough I have heard people who have had bad experience with DBA and swear by girodisc as well. I just wanted the lightest option personally. A custom cut pad could theoretically be run on girodisc losing much less surface area and helping with taper.
Do you think the girodisk would last longer on a SS 1LE with it being a lighter car?
I don't have the dimensions of the SS 1LE rotors, but durability will be lower if face thickness is smaller. I personally wouldn't invest in the hats, especially on the rear to run Girodisc. Unless you are going for NASA or TT lap times. Maybe @followmyline17 can chime in for the SS 1LE options.
V well presented!
Thank you very much!
Great video. To solve the cracking issue go to gloc r10. If you're doing time attack r8 is good. If doing more than 3 hot laps r12. R16 will kill rotors like hawk 70s I was killing rotors with hawk 70s. I'm running r12 and just all around better pads. I'm c7z so a little lighter. I kept replacing with stock rotors but the c7z has the same size as the Giro disc stock. So the Giro is actually better than oem in that size. But camaro down sizes to c7z when switching to Giro. Thanks again for the video
Thanks for the tips on pads.
Scott from a pad wear perspective: What was your experience with Girodisc/smaller pad vs the OEM rotor/pad setup? Also are the smaller pads cheaper?
The pads are only a few bucks cheaper. I was getting bad enough front pad tapper that I was rotating pads every track event with the Girodisc. I'm hoping to have less tapper going back to the full-size pads.
Awesome video. Really shows the differences in the manufacturers despite them all looking like 'big rings of iron'... I see where the extra $$ comes in on the Giros; getting to that weight/performance ratio is definitely hypercar engineering ...however I also see where DBA shines. I'm curious about the performance benefits 'on track', at the end of the day the rotors are also part of a system - wonder how the brake points/lap times differed?
I did not notice major performance benefits with the rotor ring changes. Obviously, less rotational mass will have some benefit. Unless you are racing in competition, then reliability and lower costs should be the primary consideration. I did notice more pad taper with the Girodisc than the DBA or factory rotors, which leads to premature pad replacement.
DBA is a old OE supplier and also worked with supercar teams for many decades.
They know what they are doing.
Same can be said for brembo.
Those DBA are absolute tanks. Would rather run those than giro’s. I ran giros on my c7z and they had uneven heat issues if I didn’t slowly warm them up I think because they were thinner and cooled off faster on long straights
I'm not sure if you know but there is actually a another company out there that makes a kit for our cars and there are called electron motorsports based in Mooresville North Carolina and they actually have two-piece front and rears I've been looking into them and I will try to get more information but I've been considering this as an upgrade due to the two-piece designed for the rears
There’s a limited benefit of two piece rear rotors. 10 lbs of total weight and a slight cooling benefit.
Thank you for the great video! Can I ask a question, but please excuse my incompetence. I need to replace brake rotors and pads on a Lexus GX460 and I am considering upgrading to DBA slotted rotors for greater braking. However some say they experience vibration and noise problems with slotted rotors and also the suspension is suffering more load/stress due to a better bite? Any advice is highly appreciated!
Properly installed pads and rotors should not vibrate. However, high-performance street pads and race pads can cause more brake dust and squeal during street driving when they are below racing temperature. The suspension will not be negatively impacted by improved braking performance.
Thank you for the clear explanation! I think in this case I would go for a more standard slotted rotors. A bit more dust is not a problem, but hearing squeal would be a bit odd if too loud.
I have not watched the entirety of the video throughout but I do have a question, It may have been answered but I noticed You said DBA rotor rings But reusing the OEM hat. Do you know if there's any significant improvement with the DBA hat and rotor kit? For whatever reason it's $50 more KNS brakes has two options for the DBA ring not sure if it's worth an extra $50 or not But that means I would have to buy the DBA kit first just like giro disc
This is covered in the conclusion of the video. Check it out! 😎
So I watched the rest of the video however I don't think you understand what I'm getting at with my question.
There are two products from DBA rotors. Option 1 is just the replacement rotoring utilizing you reusing the factory aluminum hat and that cost $337 per ring
Option two, DBA offers a replacement rotor ring but only fits the DBA rotor hat, which means you have to have the full DBA rotor kit in order to use that specific replacement ring. But that specific replacement ring for some reason is $387
My question pertains to is there a specific difference between the rings and do they offer any more durability lightweightness what is it exactly that causes the same replacement rotary ring except utilizing the DBA hat to be $50 more does that make sense?@@RacingforALS
Thanks for your video, it helped me a lot. I ordered DBA 370mm rotors from Australia and can you tell me which exact brake pads you used? I see a link to DTC-60 but which ones are specific to Camaro and DBA 370mm?
Reach out to Coby at 89X Motorsports. The pads that fit the factory rotors work with DBA. www.89xmotorsports.com/
Have you used stock rotors with race pads? I would be very curious on the longevity of DBA vs OEM.
I had to replace my OEM rotors after 12 track days. 9 of those were at Road America. 6 of the 9 days at Road America were on 1.11s (which I am also moving away from to GLOC. Had a great experience with R16s at NCM.). The other 6 were on OEM pads.
I do not, but Ron (Red/White ZL1) runs Hawk DTC-70 pads with stock rotors this season. How did your OEM rotors fail, thickness or cracking?
@@RacingforALS Thickness. I had such little cracking I didn't measure thickness until season was over. Ended up being 1MM below discard thickness, 33M
@@Slurpee_12 😨😨😨😨
Have you measured the temperature of calipers with each different type of rotor? Which rotor retains less heat, and therefore has better thermal capacity?
I have not, but I typically do a cool-down lap. Data from the pits would not be accurate. The DBA rotors are holding up well after 4 track days.
What wheels and tires are you running at road Atlanta?
I’m running apex 19 in with stock 3rs now. But been debating about 18s squared
I have been running ZL1 1LE factory sized Goodyear 3R's for the last couple of years. I did run a square 305-30-19 RE71R setup for Time Trials on the old car. It increased the oversteer bias and reduced the corner exit traction, so it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. A square setup is much better for maximizing tire life. You may have to adjust alignment and sway bars to get it balanced. I've got too much invested in 19" wheels to experiment.
Are you saying I have a thick face????
🐐
Your videos and photos are very nice. 😎😎
I'll be sticking with factory rotors and pads. The $86 saved is not worth it if it results in any extra weight.
Factory rotors are a good option. When you wear them out, save the hats and hardware for future options.
DS1.11 is worth the price of entrt
I'll try them out sometime. I have a mental block if I spend over $500 on brake pads.
If you're racing the car, why not invest in AP Racing?
The initial investment is higher than the benefits for me and most amateurs.