6:48 safety squints engaged!!!!😂😂😂 We’ve all done it Scotty. That stuff looks like it works great. Engine bay looks great you should just clear coat it. Cheers Pat
its basically a Phosphoric acid at 30% in the bottle. you can find it in some home brew shops a lot cheaper and stronger 85% for cleaning and sterilizing
If that's what it is then I suggest that you use it outside. Otherwise metal elsewhere that you had no intention on working on is now gonna rust. I've never used it but someone's story made perfect sense. Acid when becomes airborne it attacks everything elsewhere. Use baking soda to neutralize it, otherwise your waisting time and money.
Bloody bean counters. They are a scourge on the planet. Important, yes, but they all take things too far. Input from grass roots parts of a business are equally important. If the bean counters stop people doing their jobs as well as they could, there’s a problem for the customer.
Front Counter, sure, and they cop the brunt of the complaints, but the delivery drivers can be pretty effing useless, and the distribution hubs have been sending peoples parcels halfway around the country and back without sending them to the front door.
Once again Scotty another good episode that was a learning curve for me too find good products Australian made ones that is hope family are doing well 👍
Highly recommend oxy tech. Have had bare metal shells protected for 5 years plus. I brush on easy phos if I know its going to be a while before returning.
How I missed this video is anybodies guess! You missed a joke there, Scotty... "lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade of "Anti-ox" towards thy rusty metal foe" 😊 Cheers. Leigh
Another great line of products from Australian suppliers, we as a country should be making all our own products so government get behind Australian made not China made.
Looking clean Scotty 👍👍 im so lazy i sent my front end of my FC to the galvaniza only cost me $120 now i just got to trick someone to clean the roof and floor
I was surprised to find out vinyl house wash cleaned the rusty grinding dust off my garage doors. I then tried it on the rust metal of my car, and it also cleaned the metal well.
Could have done it with just the sander, but think of how much dust and disc's you'd have to go through. Having the fluid pick up the iron oxide dust has got to be the smarter way of doing it. Didn't Phosphor coatings replace Lead Dips at the manufacturing?
I ordered something from Queensland, I’m in VIC and it went to Perth and tracking showed it being scanned each day for two weeks, left Perth to some place in WA then back to Perth 😭 after lots of calls it looks like it’s now arrived in Melbourne 6 days ago so hopefully move along again soon
Just subscribed bro 😎 love the episode keep them Coming did you ever try POR-15 ? After you get steel clean you paint it on its black for frames good stuff check it out maybe you could do a video for it or get in touch with them it’s super food stuff
Evap-o-rust is another very good rust removal product. It's non-hazardous, biodegradable and reuseable plus it doesn't mess up delicate stuff like already existing paint (that is well adhered), rubber, plastic, etc. So you can dunk whole assemblies in it and it'll come out rust-free.
@@ZAPATTUBE based on what? I was VERY skeptical of it. I threw all kinds of nasty crap at that product and it NEVER disappointed. Worked as advertised EVERY time.
Scotty, that Anti-Ox made that engine bay shine! You need a pair of sunnies just to reduce the glare. I'm going to invest into some Oxytech products & test it on my mate's Ford Model T chassis as he wants to build a T-Bucket. Great results mate & great video.
The good thing about an acid wash is it gets into all the corners and places a wire wheel misses, plus it chemically eats the rust. Just need to make sure you de-activate the acid with water, then blow that off and protect the cleaned steel with EasyPhos straight away
Also do yourself (and your eyes) a favour and get some Toolpro red nylon wire brushes from Supercheap. I switched from metal wire brushes years ago after my wife copped a chunk of steel wire in her eye. The nylon brushes are impregnated with an abrasive that is brilliant for removing surface rust, paint, even some filler and it won't do any damage to the metal surface. Leaves a clean scratch pattern similar to 120-180 grit sander. Perfect for weld prep and no more flying metal needles to get stabbed with.
@@blownhemi thanks mate, love the franchise, im in my 40s and love all the classic 70s 80s 90s action flicks, everytime my brother and his boys go camping and leave at sparrows fart in the morning i always send them the youtube clip "rise and shine, its another beautiful day in the corps" clip from Aliens, just to motivate them. Keep up the good work Scotty your doing a great job. Cheers.
Hi, so it appears ok for say inner guards, floors etc How does it cope with outer panels and will paint stick to it OK ?? The engine bay will that be normal 2pak or will you sue something like hammercoat / rustoleum - i cant spray paint for peanuts thus my question and i leave the outer skins for the pro's and do my best on the rest
Seriously... I had laser plates cut, internal supports hand made, etc. Not one of the after market "repairs" are anywhere near like mine. I was fully repairing these in '86. Steering box forward. K frame mounts. Properly done with my years of experience.
@brad.979. send me a message through Patreon, and I'll fix it up. Sometimes when I download the list someone might not be paid up but they renew a day later and the list is wrong.
If that product was to “remove rust” why do you have to sand while its on there? Seems a bit much to have to use sanding with it to remove what its sold to do, im not knocking the product but just asking for clarification.
Was it really that successful? I mean if you are using something abrasive, you could hit it with water and remove a lot of it with a scourer. Without being there it is hard to tell, but can't say I am 100% convinced. Would have been nice to see you do the other side with water to get a real comparison.
You can tell when it’s reacting because of the whiteish colour it takes on (which is fine bubbles). You can see it about 10 seconds after he brushes it on. A scourer and water won’t get anywhere near that much rust off. A sander would, but you’d still need to de-ox it, as you can’t reach into the myriad of tiny rust pits with mechanical abrasion. 😊
Australia Post isn't really delivering at the moment. You're freakin hilarious, they have never delivered! Waited for something to arrive from Melbourne, after a month it was returned back to the seller back in Melbourne because Australia Post doesn't know where Queensland is. They kept trying to deliver the parcel to NSW.
If it was a private company "all" of our packages would be kicked down the driveway (watch all the home security cameras around the world including here) and it would also be a good thing as it would reduce all that Chinese rubbish being sent here, because Auspost wouldn't be basically freighting it for free at our expense. When you can buy it cheaper than the customs and transport cost it is easy to see "we" are paying for it.
Looks like the Phosphoric acid that I use. VERY, VERY nasty stuff! One little speek on ya skin and you don't even know until it starts burning, no red mark or anything, it just burns. No bear skin when working with it.
🤔 Oxygen induces rust. Is this an oxymoron🤷♀️? Did you neutralize this with baking soda? I'm pretty sure that's the only thing that neutralizes acid🤷♀️.
If it can be brushed off with a wire brush or scowering pad it’s light surface rust. Wasting chemical rust converter on panels that you can sand and then sanding them is doing it wrong. The main reason to use a rust converter is to get the stuff you can’t sand off, to neutralise it so it can be painted over. As a product demonstration going over a rusted panel does show that it works. The process for actual use would be , remove loose rust with brush, sand the surface as needed then use converter to get the stuff in corners cracks and seams etc. Most converters use an acid that reacts with the rust removing the oxygen and replacing it with another substance like phosphorus making iron phosphate.
Cleaning and conditioning the metal is not a waste of time, and you don't need to use a brush, then sand the area first. You do a much more thorough job of cleaning out the corrosion with a wash (which needs to be neutralised with water and dried immediately) and then the sanding just provides a keyed substrate for priming.
@@Iainkellyis I said wasting material not time. Cleaning the surface of loose rust scale with a brush first reduces the amount of converter needed . Also you can vacuum the dry dust and not need to mop up mud.
Pretty much a waste of time and effort y when you can sand blast it and blow it down with air blow out the rails and seams and smash it in ppg epoxy primer.. and a old engineer mate of mine said if you want the rust proof inside box sections and seams use straight PENETROL as it completely seals it out drys Clear and penetrates better than water 💦 and will last years and it’s made by PPG
@@blownhemi yeah true I don’t like blasting the outside of any car only engine bays and boot and floor pans inside and all underneath the car pretty easy put the car on a rotisserie then I get my old bosses tilt tray take it to the blasting man I always say don’t put primer on it until I give it my tick of approval it’s quick easy and don’t cost much and is perfectly clean ready for epoxy and repairs and your not worried it’s going to go rusty
Blasting is only one step to get metal clean, it also doesn't kill the rust it only moves it. Blasting, followed by a chemical wash like Anti-Ox, then sealing with EasyPhos or an epoxy primer is the best way and minimum industry standard today. Blasting inside the rails and cavities, then power-coat primer is the best way to prevent rust inside those areas.
@@Iainkellyis yeah yeah whatever you say mate been in the Industry since I was 15 built many show cars never had any complaints or come backs from elite custom holden one tonne Utes to American Mustangs and everything in between and still going strong you have a great day bud
Easy to see your not paying for the product.Same result with scourer.Then the sander too much ginning around sand and prime You cant make a silk purse with a sows ear.
Nice work Scotty, it looks like new. This wagon deserves it all ❤.
The boofheads are just a greedy bunch of bastards, the workers are doing the best they can. They need the pay rise, Not the suits." Nuff Said "
Far out Scotty gotta be happy with that mate!
That's done a great job, gotta be happy with that - and good on them for supporting the channel. :)
It came apart just like my Land Rover Defender! Brilliant product.
6:48 safety squints engaged!!!!😂😂😂
We’ve all done it Scotty.
That stuff looks like it works great.
Engine bay looks great you should just clear coat it.
Cheers Pat
its basically a Phosphoric acid at 30% in the bottle. you can find it in some home brew shops a lot cheaper and stronger 85% for cleaning and sterilizing
Paused at 3:04 and read label, Spot On!
Then I suggest that you use it outside. Otherwise the medal that was intended elsewhere on not being worked on will now rust😬.
If that's what it is then I suggest that you use it outside. Otherwise metal elsewhere that you had no intention on working on is now gonna rust. I've never used it but someone's story made perfect sense. Acid when becomes airborne it attacks everything elsewhere. Use baking soda to neutralize it, otherwise your waisting time and money.
Dairy piping 'milkstone remover' is ~50% Phosphoric acid, but leaves a chalky residue if not scrubbed off. Best used for soaking smaller parts.
In the states, they sell Rust Kutter at tractor supply in a spray bottle or gallon jug. It’s also Phos acid.
Dude thats come out mint great work
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with it
If they don't even ask to use the before and after as an advert, they're mad. Stunning result
Wow, the results speak for themselves ! That engine bay looks awesome , like all new metal.
Don't blame Aussie Post Scooter, Blame the bean counters in the head office. The staff (shop front, sorting, drivers) are doing the best they can.
Bloody bean counters. They are a scourge on the planet. Important, yes, but they all take things too far. Input from grass roots parts of a business are equally important. If the bean counters stop people doing their jobs as well as they could, there’s a problem for the customer.
Front Counter, sure, and they cop the brunt of the complaints, but the delivery drivers can be pretty effing useless, and the distribution hubs have been sending peoples parcels halfway around the country and back without sending them to the front door.
I find Aussie Post peeps to be quite decent…
We have the same problem too😡. Ours started in 2019.
@@PiDsPagePrototypesAre you sure that you're not in America😅?
Thanks for this vid mate. Putting a new nose cone on my CL due to all the rust around the bolts. This helps heaps! Loving your work mate:) Josh
Looks like great products. Wish I could buy it here in the US. Thanks for sharing!😃
What a difference! Wow! Cheers!
Once again Scotty another good episode that was a learning curve for me too find good products Australian made ones that is hope family are doing well 👍
I now know if I had a paint job to do and I stripped it like you have I would be buying this stuff
That looks so good
Good one Scotty
Great result mate.
Looks like a good thing there
Pretty neat product. 👍
Looks to be an awesome product Scotty 👌
Nice result alright. Had a wagon back in the day with a 245 and a 4 speed. That thing used to get up and boogie.
Great results
God bless brother
Good job, Homie… 😎🇺🇸
Makin a real job of it Scotty, going to look great✌
Choc mint way better than cookies and cream 😂
@@drifterdrifter9558 I like them both
Highly recommend oxy tech. Have had bare metal shells protected for 5 years plus. I brush on easy phos if I know its going to be a while before returning.
I'll be buying some for sure🎉
Good stuff, almost ready for the donk
@@samperras haha
How I missed this video is anybodies guess! You missed a joke there, Scotty... "lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade of "Anti-ox" towards thy rusty metal foe" 😊 Cheers. Leigh
@@theoriginalwallace haha, that is a great one
@@blownhemi 😁
Good job mate, will def be giving both products a go. Cheers👍
Another great line of products from Australian suppliers, we as a country should be making all our own products so government get behind Australian made not China made.
Looking clean Scotty 👍👍 im so lazy i sent my front end of my FC to the galvaniza only cost me $120 now i just got to trick someone to clean the roof and floor
Not bad prices. The easy phos spray is a bit pricey but can get it in a container for a reasonable price.
Looks like top stuff !!!
That worked good, it’s probably just a Phosphoric acid product but you can’t argue with the results.
I was surprised to find out vinyl house wash cleaned the rusty grinding dust off my garage doors. I then tried it on the rust metal of my car, and it also cleaned the metal well.
Could have done it with just the sander, but think of how much dust and disc's you'd have to go through. Having the fluid pick up the iron oxide dust has got to be the smarter way of doing it.
Didn't Phosphor coatings replace Lead Dips at the manufacturing?
Aus post😅 I’m in Vic and received a letter addressed to Qld last week.
Is cookies and cream the ice cream of choice?
I ordered something from Queensland, I’m in VIC and it went to Perth and tracking showed it being scanned each day for two weeks, left Perth to some place in WA then back to Perth 😭 after lots of calls it looks like it’s now arrived in Melbourne 6 days ago so hopefully move along again soon
Great products Scotty. Thanks mate. I’ll use them for sure.
Does any one of your mates need any s series panels or parts?
Scotty, Australia Post are the ducks guts compared to Amarax and Sendle, avoid them like the plague.
Just subscribed bro 😎 love the episode keep them
Coming did you ever try POR-15 ? After you get steel clean you paint it on its black for frames good stuff check it out maybe you could do a video for it or get in touch with them it’s super food stuff
I've heard of it, but never used it. I'll check it out.
Evap-o-rust is another very good rust removal product. It's non-hazardous, biodegradable and reuseable plus it doesn't mess up delicate stuff like already existing paint (that is well adhered), rubber, plastic, etc. So you can dunk whole assemblies in it and it'll come out rust-free.
It sucks!
@@ZAPATTUBE based on what? I was VERY skeptical of it. I threw all kinds of nasty crap at that product and it NEVER disappointed. Worked as advertised EVERY time.
Scotty, that Anti-Ox made that engine bay shine! You need a pair of sunnies just to reduce the glare. I'm going to invest into some Oxytech products & test it on my mate's Ford Model T chassis as he wants to build a T-Bucket.
Great results mate & great video.
thats amazing
Looks great! Im not usually a fan of acids so would have painstaking used a wire-wheel over the lot. Starting to rethink my strategy haha
A wire wheel would take a lot longer
The good thing about an acid wash is it gets into all the corners and places a wire wheel misses, plus it chemically eats the rust. Just need to make sure you de-activate the acid with water, then blow that off and protect the cleaned steel with EasyPhos straight away
Also do yourself (and your eyes) a favour and get some Toolpro red nylon wire brushes from Supercheap. I switched from metal wire brushes years ago after my wife copped a chunk of steel wire in her eye. The nylon brushes are impregnated with an abrasive that is brilliant for removing surface rust, paint, even some filler and it won't do any damage to the metal surface. Leaves a clean scratch pattern similar to 120-180 grit sander. Perfect for weld prep and no more flying metal needles to get stabbed with.
GREAT !
For a moment there I thought ‘she ‘was going to make an appearance but I guess she contracted to Carnage.
@@GenerationGap69 watch the next video...
Did Aussie Chryslers have body colour engine bays like American Mopars or black?
@@michaelteasdale2919 body colour
Gona have to start priming her for paint Scotty. What colour is she gona be?
@@LV-FOURTWENTYSIX Toledo Red
@@LV-FOURTWENTYSIX great user name, big fan of the Aliens franchise
@@blownhemi thanks mate, love the franchise, im in my 40s and love all the classic 70s 80s 90s action flicks, everytime my brother and his boys go camping and leave at sparrows fart in the morning i always send them the youtube clip "rise and shine, its another beautiful day in the corps" clip from Aliens, just to motivate them.
Keep up the good work Scotty your doing a great job. Cheers.
Good gear oxy tech 🇦🇺👻
Camo cargos and that hoodie. Do ya wear anything else Scotty?😂
@@dscarpentry999 umm, no
if it ain't broke don't fix it.
My only concern is does the acid keep eating away the metal?
No, because you neutralise it with water
Instructions clearly state you need to de-activate it with water, then dry it and seal it.
Hi, so it appears ok for say inner guards, floors etc
How does it cope with outer panels and will paint stick to it OK ??
The engine bay will that be normal 2pak or will you sue something like hammercoat / rustoleum - i cant spray paint for peanuts thus my question and i leave the outer skins for the pro's and do my best on the rest
@@georgemaragos2378 the engine bay will be normal paint
Home Depot sells “Kleen Strip” concrete and metal prep, under $17 US dollars.
@@c50ge we don't have Home Depot here in Australia
Give me a yell if you are looking at front rail rust repairs. I did heaps in my business. Properly
Seriously... I had laser plates cut, internal supports hand made, etc. Not one of the after market "repairs" are anywhere near like mine. I was fully repairing these in '86. Steering box forward. K frame mounts. Properly done with my years of experience.
Use my experience mate
scotty provide a link mate
I figure everyone knows how to use Google
Ospho is the same thing . I use it and get the same result you get.
$30 a ltr isn't terrible in comparison to some products but still not great compared to others
I didn't see my name on the patreons list?
@brad.979. send me a message through Patreon, and I'll fix it up. Sometimes when I download the list someone might not be paid up but they renew a day later and the list is wrong.
@@blownhemi sent a patreon message
Dude👌👌👌
If that product was to “remove rust” why do you have to sand while its on there? Seems a bit much to have to use sanding with it to remove what its sold to do, im not knocking the product but just asking for clarification.
Just to help it get right in there. It's like toothpaste, to use your analogy just squirt it on to your teeth
Hydrochloric acid works.well . Just have to wash it off. Get 5 lt at hardware shop
Was it really that successful? I mean if you are using something abrasive, you could hit it with water and remove a lot of it with a scourer. Without being there it is hard to tell, but can't say I am 100% convinced. Would have been nice to see you do the other side with water to get a real comparison.
I don't think water is going to get even close. The acid works straight away.
You can tell when it’s reacting because of the whiteish colour it takes on (which is fine bubbles). You can see it about 10 seconds after he brushes it on. A scourer and water won’t get anywhere near that much rust off. A sander would, but you’d still need to de-ox it, as you can’t reach into the myriad of tiny rust pits with mechanical abrasion. 😊
@@commodorenut my eyes are too old to pick up the bubbles you mention (or my screen is too small, lets go with that).
Scotty look into a product called ...Por 15 sounds as it's spelt
I used por 15 in and underneath my car with a paint brush, it self levels, 16 years ago still looking great
KBS sell a similar product and they're Aussie-made!
Australia Post isn't really delivering at the moment. You're freakin hilarious, they have never delivered! Waited for something to arrive from Melbourne, after a month it was returned back to the seller back in Melbourne because Australia Post doesn't know where Queensland is. They kept trying to deliver the parcel to NSW.
vinegar will do the same and cost a lot less!
I doubt that it would do better
If Aus Post was a private company or had a competitor they would've been gone a long time ago. The most hopeless organisation in the country.
If it was a private company "all" of our packages would be kicked down the driveway (watch all the home security cameras around the world including here) and it would also be a good thing as it would reduce all that Chinese rubbish being sent here, because Auspost wouldn't be basically freighting it for free at our expense. When you can buy it cheaper than the customs and transport cost it is easy to see "we" are paying for it.
Don't bother with the " how did we go feedback email either " complete waste of time
Looks like the Phosphoric acid that I use. VERY, VERY nasty stuff! One little speek on ya skin and you don't even know until it starts burning, no red mark or anything, it just burns. No bear skin when working with it.
@broughxtreme yep, it let's you know pretty quick
Try using oxalic acid
First comment 😂
Do u even sleep Byron 😂😂
@@jamesbaylis9438 haha shift work bro 👍
😜👍🇦🇺
🤔 Oxygen induces rust. Is this an oxymoron🤷♀️? Did you neutralize this with baking soda? I'm pretty sure that's the only thing that neutralizes acid🤷♀️.
@@lynnrunningdeer7364 water neutralises acid as well
That wagon would look sensational in a bright silver paint job..orange is just 🤮🤮
@@lancegraham7722 I know someone with a silver one, I'm not painting it orange
If it can be brushed off with a wire brush or scowering pad it’s light surface rust.
Wasting chemical rust converter on panels that you can sand and then sanding them is doing it wrong.
The main reason to use a rust converter is to get the stuff you can’t sand off, to neutralise it so it can be painted over.
As a product demonstration going over a rusted panel does show that it works.
The process for actual use would be , remove loose rust with brush, sand the surface as needed then use converter to get the stuff in corners cracks and seams etc.
Most converters use an acid that reacts with the rust removing the oxygen and replacing it with another substance like phosphorus making iron phosphate.
Cleaning and conditioning the metal is not a waste of time, and you don't need to use a brush, then sand the area first. You do a much more thorough job of cleaning out the corrosion with a wash (which needs to be neutralised with water and dried immediately) and then the sanding just provides a keyed substrate for priming.
@@Iainkellyis I said wasting material not time. Cleaning the surface of loose rust scale with a brush first reduces the amount of converter needed . Also you can vacuum the dry dust and not need to mop up mud.
Pretty much a waste of time and effort y when you can sand blast it and blow it down with air blow out the rails and seams and smash it in ppg epoxy primer.. and a old engineer mate of mine said if you want the rust proof inside box sections and seams use straight PENETROL as it completely seals it out drys Clear and penetrates better than water 💦 and will last years and it’s made by PPG
@michaelbyrnes7944 sand blasting is messy, and you need a much bigger compressor than what I have
@@blownhemi yeah true I don’t like blasting the outside of any car only engine bays and boot and floor pans inside and all underneath the car pretty easy put the car on a rotisserie then I get my old bosses tilt tray take it to the blasting man I always say don’t put primer on it until I give it my tick of approval it’s quick easy and don’t cost much and is perfectly clean ready for epoxy and repairs and your not worried it’s going to go rusty
Blasting is only one step to get metal clean, it also doesn't kill the rust it only moves it. Blasting, followed by a chemical wash like Anti-Ox, then sealing with EasyPhos or an epoxy primer is the best way and minimum industry standard today. Blasting inside the rails and cavities, then power-coat primer is the best way to prevent rust inside those areas.
@@Iainkellyis yeah yeah whatever you say mate been in the Industry since I was 15 built many show cars never had any complaints or come backs from elite custom holden one tonne Utes to American Mustangs and everything in between and still going strong you have a great day bud
Easy to see your not paying for the product.Same result with scourer.Then the sander too much ginning around sand and prime You cant make a silk purse with a sows ear.
You get a much better result with a chemical wash than with dry sanding. Anti-Ox kills the rust and chemically treats the metal.
Learn how to pour from a container.
@@RebeccaGriffin-b8n it went in, didn't it?
You also get "tile cleaner" that will do the same.i have done it before here in south Africa
Hi do they have a uk base for selling the chemicals your used thanks and the full names and descriptions thanks from uk
@geraldmcmahon7361 check the Oxytech website
Onya!