I started following you from the Carnage series. I like the no bullshit approach and genuine authenticity in your passion. Looking forward to this and more killer builds.
Lockdown takes me back to a month of journeys down to Neonatal intensive care to visit our second foster son. He was born early april 2020, literally as it all hit. Hes now a healthy and feisty little sod, starting school in September. Hes now adopted and lives with us and his full brother Also reminds me of my wife who is a 2 decade veteran of healthcare, getting a 2 day refresher course before getting shoved out on covid wards. It was a proper weird, stressful time but we all got through and are here enjoying this video.
I reckon that if you used an atomiser spray bottle to get the acid on and Scotchy as you go would work a treat. Also, just a handy hint for you Scott and other viewers, if you've never seen WD40 stored in a clear storage container you'd be suppressed at how much it settles and separates in a short period. All the good gear sinks to the bottom and the solvent carrier on top. So, when you spray the first 30% is really oily and as you get through the container you get less and less goodness. Always shake well before every spray. Mopar or no Car
Definitely epoxy primer on bare metal before applying any filler, rust will form between the metal and filler in time. Also after rubbing the filler you will get break throughs to bare metal, re epoxy the whole roof/ area before applying high fill primer. Love your work Scotty 💪
It's kinda strange watching this video I had a sence of deja vu then it hit me ...all the memories of lock down come flooding back...was a pretty bad time for me with my mental health...wow I thought I was past it but obviously not....letting you know Scotty yourself soldiering on with this wagon committed to delivering content during that time probably helped many through a shit go....
Best way I’ve found to remove rust and clean up rusted panels is with the blue spaghetti wheel on a drill as it doesn’t create lots of heat and leaves the metal clean as similar to sand blasting but no mess
No it’s a different sort of thing it’s got abrasive properties into woven throughout the spaghetti wheel that makes it up and they last ages at slower revs like on a drill and with rust pits if you reverse the drill they work even better and will most definitely clean out most pits as good as blasting sand blasting
Genuinely love the work you do Scotty, both on here and on Carnage. Out of all of the cars you’re currently working on, I’m as excited about the Wagon as I am for the Ute on Carnage. My old man used to have a Valiant wagon and this hold a special place for me so believe me when I say I’m sending all of the positive vibes to you mate! Keep up the excellent work that you do!
Thanks for the video there, Scottie. You have brightened up my morning. Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing this wagon completely fully restored and finished and rolling on the road driving.
As someone who likes doing my own body work i suggest putting primer on before putting body filler to reduce rust forming under the filler as for pulling dents out using a spot puller ( the one with feet) would be ideal if you know any body shops using it, cause no one likes dolly hammer time even with slappers
Nice work. For small areas, you can put on some etch primer to prevent surface rust coming back and it's easily removable with thinners. Later on, if you're going the epoxy route, I recommend Epotec 408. Use the grey/green colour if you can as it has more solids in it as has some good build to it as well. Takes a while to fully cure in the Melbourne winter though so keep that in mind if you're doing filler work on top
Noice job Scott, The Rustoleum Rust remover made the job easier by far :-) I've done my fair share of surface rust and Using twisted wire cup brushes and DA Sanders it takes a shload of time, consumables and makes a ton of dust, I like your way better lol
Love your work Scotty. Been there a few times and it's bloody arduous. Don't be afraid to use a bit of filler, she ain't going to be in the summernats elite hall, and it'll save your sanity and momentum drive.
lovin the channel mate.. tip for ya if u want to leave the car in bare metal for quiet some time before putting epoxy or etch primer on .. run over the panel with a wire brush on a drill or grinder it wont rust then when ur ready to epoxy sand the panel with 120 n ur rite to go the way ur doing now ur leaving it sanded and it will flash rust on u from condensation .......kepp killin it scotty love the channel and keen to watch it grow much love
The wire wheel of choice for me is the "Josco 75mm Twistknot Cup Brush" from Bunnings. Put that on a 100mm angle grinder and rust is easily removed. Just be careful near the edges of metal because it will cut/melt through. And be careful about lose clothing too. I have used "KBS RustBlast". It's a water based rust removal product that converts the rust and also prevents rusting for 30 days after use. No need for the WD40.
A shrinking disc for the angle grinder works wonders on long scrapes like the one you got in the roof. I had a deep full length one across a door, and it barely needed any filler after half an hour.
I found that if i hit with with the sander and wire wheel first you dont have to yous half that amount of rust converser would love to see how if you can remove them dents with a dent removal welder tool thing 🤙🏼
Just a tip. You can try several things on the roof scratch. First is to heat with a blow torch and quench with a wet rag. Second method is use a beating bag on the top of the roof scratch and massage it gently with air hammer or flat plate hammer. Looking good though, wish I could give you a hand.
Painstaking work but it's come up nice.. and it'll all be worth it when the wags is done. It'll be a long road but can't wait to see it rolling under its own power!
Hey mate, try using DEOXIDINE METAL CONDITIONER on your bare metal surfaces will last 3-6 months with no rust appearing. It also eliminates the need for wd40 which is a painter nightmare
Morning mate love your work gives us all so much motivation! If you want some help fixing your roof let me know I’d love to help (ima licensed roof plumber) Cheers
Lol Scotty, can I call you Mr Rusty Mopar Guy? You did a good job with that surface rust. You need to concentrate a bit more on the drain/drip channels cos that's where rust normally starts on cars of that era (it's making me feel old cos I'm a year younger than the wagon!). From what the video shows me, it looks as though the metal has pitted over the years so I can see a fair bit of bog going on that roof. Hopefully you can get the dings out. That scratch will be a pain as it's in the middle. Try and dolly out as much as you can. I can forsee a ton of blocking & sanding once you used a bit of bog, primer and guide coat but if you put in the time & not rush it, it'll look schmick! I was recently in Port Macquarie in my mate's Holden VE ute where the hard lid was crap. All up after repairing, a ton of bog, primer, blocking & sanding, I got the Hard lid the way I wanted it. All up it was 26 hours of work. After it was painted, there were no ripples to be found & it looked like a baby grand piano in phantom black. Just remember to allocate plenty of time with that roof & the fruits will bear!
I have a heap of the those brass wire brush thingo sand they are fantastic Looks good Scottie If I were not on the other side of the country I have 20 litres of super etch that I’m sure would be helpful to you
That turned bloody nice. If you have the funds for it, I’d consider a shrinking disc for the groove carved out in the centre of the roof. I’ve seen Karl Fischer use them heaps to really great effect 👌
That stuff worked pretty well. Interesting that it didn't entirely remove the rust like products of old though. Hopefully you haven't applied any paint yet mate and here's why. Any type of primer that isn't any epoxy based primer is porous and so rusting can still occur under the primer as moisture in the air can seep through the primer. The acids in etch primers will only last so long against the environment before they are overwhelmed. Also, making the steel really smooth is bad for paint adhesion and will cause paints to delaminate from the steel. If you do use a decent brand 2 part epoxy, not single part as they're shit, then the surface of the steel needs to be prepped with 80 grit sanding for the surface to be keyed properly for the paint to grip too. I hope this is of use to you. I use Debeer epoxy primer but there's plenty of options from your local automotive paint supplier.
Bore upper good stuff wen things get going don’t be shy to ask for help I’m sure many would drop of a hat to lend a hand with a shed make over or something
Looking good scotty it came up alright . You need a second set of hands too work that centre dent out maybe the wife or daughter can hold the dolly while you hammer . I would try to get it out as much as possible with it been such a large area it will probably crack out due too how much movement the roof skin has . My nan had similar damage on her roof repaired under insurance and within maybe 3 years it cracked out as they only filled it in with bog not removing as much of the dent as possible and with the hot Australian sun it heated up the roof and it pulled the bog out of the dent as it was expanding and contracting at a different rate to the rest of the roof . Im no expert so this is only my 2 cents worth. Do you know anyone in the body work industry who could assist with better knowledge?
60 grit is aggressive. Really. Get some wet and dry at 240 and go from there. Also SCA does a can of spray cold galv. It's cheap and effective. Just mist it over when you've got the rust under control. $25 for a can and you'll have heaps left.
*3 years later* "On this episode, I'm gonna show you how to remove rust from the top of a 1968 valiant" Haha I kid, looks sick Scotty Might be a weird opinion but I think you should keep all the dings, and just clear coat it as it is without paint 🤷♂️
Good to see your getting stuck back into it.. I've actually been using alot of your tricks and tips fixing my val. Keep up the awsome work Scotty 🍻
I started following you from the Carnage series. I like the no bullshit approach and genuine authenticity in your passion. Looking forward to this and more killer builds.
Lockdown takes me back to a month of journeys down to Neonatal intensive care to visit our second foster son. He was born early april 2020, literally as it all hit. Hes now a healthy and feisty little sod, starting school in September. Hes now adopted and lives with us and his full brother
Also reminds me of my wife who is a 2 decade veteran of healthcare, getting a 2 day refresher course before getting shoved out on covid wards.
It was a proper weird, stressful time but we all got through and are here enjoying this video.
I reckon that if you used an atomiser spray bottle to get the acid on and Scotchy as you go would work a treat. Also, just a handy hint for you Scott and other viewers, if you've never seen WD40 stored in a clear storage container you'd be suppressed at how much it settles and separates in a short period. All the good gear sinks to the bottom and the solvent carrier on top. So, when you spray the first 30% is really oily and as you get through the container you get less and less goodness. Always shake well before every spray. Mopar or no Car
Thanks for the tip
Definitely epoxy primer on bare metal before applying any filler, rust will form between the metal and filler in time.
Also after rubbing the filler you will get break throughs to bare metal, re epoxy the whole roof/ area before applying high fill primer.
Love your work Scotty 💪
It's kinda strange watching this video I had a sence of deja vu then it hit me ...all the memories of lock down come flooding back...was a pretty bad time for me with my mental health...wow I thought I was past it but obviously not....letting you know Scotty yourself soldiering on with this wagon committed to delivering content during that time probably helped many through a shit go....
Looking good so far mate we'll be with you every step of the way and remember you can't rush art.
@@danielsultana5615 very true
Nothing better than to start the week with a bit of Scotty working in The Long Roof ❤
WOW,that did come up MINT, I think you mat be up for a fair bit of spray putty 😉, off to a good start Scotty 👍.
Nothing like a bit of backyard chemistry in the shed, looks amazing
Best way I’ve found to remove rust and clean up rusted panels is with the blue spaghetti wheel on a drill as it doesn’t create lots of heat and leaves the metal clean as similar to sand blasting but no mess
Like a wire wheel but with nylon "wires" instead of brass?
No it’s a different sort of thing it’s got abrasive properties into woven throughout the spaghetti wheel that makes it up and they last ages at slower revs like on a drill and with rust pits if you reverse the drill they work even better and will most definitely clean out most pits as good as blasting sand blasting
Genuinely love the work you do Scotty, both on here and on Carnage. Out of all of the cars you’re currently working on, I’m as excited about the Wagon as I am for the Ute on Carnage. My old man used to have a Valiant wagon and this hold a special place for me so believe me when I say I’m sending all of the positive vibes to you mate! Keep up the excellent work that you do!
Thanks mate
Great job, I can smell it just watching it. Good video this is what I like to see. Thanks Scotty
Can't wait to see more of the old wagon, keep the vids coming mate!
Thanks for the video there, Scottie. You have brightened up my morning.
Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing this wagon completely fully restored and finished and rolling on the road driving.
I miss the lockdown wagon so good to see it get more love
Good job Scotty, getting enthused about starting these sorts of jobs is the biggest hurdle for me! All the best. Cheers
Acid based tile grout cleaner works mint too 🤘
The val wagon feels much better with a good rub on the back Scotty, looking better as well😁
Thanks Mr Motivator, this put a spark back into my build.
Still waiting on the microphone, Scotty?
It's awesome to see the wagon getting some love again. She's definitely a long-termer as you mentioned
I've got one now, you'll start to hear in future episodes
As someone who likes doing my own body work i suggest putting primer on before putting body filler to reduce rust forming under the filler as for pulling dents out using a spot puller ( the one with feet) would be ideal if you know any body shops using it, cause no one likes dolly hammer time even with slappers
Nice work. For small areas, you can put on some etch primer to prevent surface rust coming back and it's easily removable with thinners. Later on, if you're going the epoxy route, I recommend Epotec 408. Use the grey/green colour if you can as it has more solids in it as has some good build to it as well. Takes a while to fully cure in the Melbourne winter though so keep that in mind if you're doing filler work on top
Thanks for the tip
Noice job Scott, The Rustoleum Rust remover made the job easier by far :-)
I've done my fair share of surface rust and Using twisted wire cup brushes and DA Sanders it takes a shload of time, consumables and makes a ton of dust, I like your way better lol
Love your work Scotty. Been there a few times and it's bloody arduous. Don't be afraid to use a bit of filler, she ain't going to be in the summernats elite hall, and it'll save your sanity and momentum drive.
lovin the channel mate.. tip for ya if u want to leave the car in bare metal for quiet some time before putting epoxy or etch primer on .. run over the panel with a wire brush on a drill or grinder it wont rust then when ur ready to epoxy sand the panel with 120 n ur rite to go the way ur doing now ur leaving it sanded and it will flash rust on u from condensation .......kepp killin it scotty love the channel and keen to watch it grow much love
The wire wheel of choice for me is the "Josco 75mm Twistknot Cup Brush" from Bunnings. Put that on a 100mm angle grinder and rust is easily removed. Just be careful near the edges of metal because it will cut/melt through. And be careful about lose clothing too.
I have used "KBS RustBlast". It's a water based rust removal product that converts the rust and also prevents rusting for 30 days after use. No need for the WD40.
I use purple Scotch bright pads on a grinder first. Then the rust dissolver and clean it off then 80 girt on DA wire wheel if needed .
A shrinking disc for the angle grinder works wonders on long scrapes like the one you got in the roof. I had a deep full length one across a door, and it barely needed any filler after half an hour.
I'll look into it
I found that if i hit with with the sander and wire wheel first you dont have to yous half that amount of rust converser would love to see how if you can remove them dents with a dent removal welder tool thing 🤙🏼
You can do it that way but it creates a lot of rusty dust. I found that doing it this way creates less dust.
Just a tip. You can try several things on the roof scratch. First is to heat with a blow torch and quench with a wet rag. Second method is use a beating bag on the top of the roof scratch and massage it gently with air hammer or flat plate hammer. Looking good though, wish I could give you a hand.
Painstaking work but it's come up nice.. and it'll all be worth it when the wags is done. It'll be a long road but can't wait to see it rolling under its own power!
lookin good Scotty, dints will prob tap up but crease might need some shrinking, if no oxy you can do it with a TIG
Hey mate, try using DEOXIDINE METAL CONDITIONER on your bare metal surfaces will last 3-6 months with no rust appearing. It also eliminates the need for wd40 which is a painter nightmare
Morning mate love your work gives us all so much motivation!
If you want some help fixing your roof let me know I’d love to help (ima licensed roof plumber)
Cheers
Lol Scotty, can I call you Mr Rusty Mopar Guy? You did a good job with that surface rust. You need to concentrate a bit more on the drain/drip channels cos that's where rust normally starts on cars of that era (it's making me feel old cos I'm a year younger than the wagon!). From what the video shows me, it looks as though the metal has pitted over the years so I can see a fair bit of bog going on that roof. Hopefully you can get the dings out. That scratch will be a pain as it's in the middle. Try and dolly out as much as you can. I can forsee a ton of blocking & sanding once you used a bit of bog, primer and guide coat but if you put in the time & not rush it, it'll look schmick!
I was recently in Port Macquarie in my mate's Holden VE ute where the hard lid was crap. All up after repairing, a ton of bog, primer, blocking & sanding, I got the Hard lid the way I wanted it. All up it was 26 hours of work. After it was painted, there were no ripples to be found & it looked like a baby grand piano in phantom black. Just remember to allocate plenty of time with that roof & the fruits will bear!
I have a heap of the those brass wire brush thingo sand they are fantastic
Looks good Scottie
If I were not on the other side of the country I have 20 litres of super etch that I’m sure would be helpful to you
Hey Scotty great show, I use Metal Rescue dry coat on bare metal and have had the parts in the shed over a year and still no rust and it's cheap.
Thanks for the advice
Looking mint Scotty! Nice work
Scotty epoxy primer would be good can leave for long time seals out moisture and can bog over
It's not recommended to work sheetmetal with primer over it though, and I've got some work to do on that roof.
Great job Scotty…. Just keep chipping away at it mate.
I use that stuff but coat it then cover it with plastic so it won’t dry out, any phosphoric acid I’d based rust remover works good
Looking good, mate!! Get a nice few coats of 2k epoxy on it as soon as, Scotty!! Cheers. Leigh.
Carby cleaner works a treat, spray & wipe
Thanks, what a great and informative video. Looking really good. Thanks and have a good week. Marc.
Awesome vid' Scotty..............Keep them coming and keep up the great work. Thank you !
That turned bloody nice.
If you have the funds for it, I’d consider a shrinking disc for the groove carved out in the centre of the roof. I’ve seen Karl Fischer use them heaps to really great effect 👌
I'll look into it
Good job Scotty, think I would have left the gloves on while wiping it down though !!
I get what you mean, but it wasn't an issue. It's weeks later and it's still clean
Good episode scotty
Perfect timing haha just got rained out of work so RUclips it is 😂
My shed roof lets in crap too. Go to Bunnings and get some corrugated foam inserts.
Yep, when the budget allows
A can of expanding foam might be cheaper.I did mine about 30 years ago as long as it isn't exposed to the sun it's fine.
Baking powder and water is your friend for neutralising the acid.
Great work Scotty
Cheers😊
Well done mate, this is great.
Try some Evaporust by CRC , it’s bloody awesome as well
Looking good Scotty !
Thanks for the video Scotty
Showing your age and mine.....Mint! 😂
Awesome video mate
But you should never use any kind of lubricant ie WD 40 on steel you want to paint
we'll be able to remove it later easy enough
You weren’t playing with them safety goggles 😂
That stuff is amazing !!!!
That stuff worked pretty well. Interesting that it didn't entirely remove the rust like products of old though. Hopefully you haven't applied any paint yet mate and here's why. Any type of primer that isn't any epoxy based primer is porous and so rusting can still occur under the primer as moisture in the air can seep through the primer. The acids in etch primers will only last so long against the environment before they are overwhelmed.
Also, making the steel really smooth is bad for paint adhesion and will cause paints to delaminate from the steel. If you do use a decent brand 2 part epoxy, not single part as they're shit, then the surface of the steel needs to be prepped with 80 grit sanding for the surface to be keyed properly for the paint to grip too. I hope this is of use to you. I use Debeer epoxy primer but there's plenty of options from your local automotive paint supplier.
Thanks for the tips
@@blownhemi Always happy to pass on my experience.
How do you successfully remove all the WD40 before paint?
@@willart2134 wax and grease remover
Don't eat the cookies and cream at Scotty's house.
Bore upper good stuff wen things get going don’t be shy to ask for help I’m sure many would drop of a hat to lend a hand with a shed make over or something
give the nylon wheels a go found they work just as well as the wire wheels
Cookies and cream my favourite
Yep, that and mint choc chip
Looking good scotty it came up alright . You need a second set of hands too work that centre dent out maybe the wife or daughter can hold the dolly while you hammer . I would try to get it out as much as possible with it been such a large area it will probably crack out due too how much movement the roof skin has . My nan had similar damage on her roof repaired under insurance and within maybe 3 years it cracked out as they only filled it in with bog not removing as much of the dent as possible and with the hot Australian sun it heated up the roof and it pulled the bog out of the dent as it was expanding and contracting at a different rate to the rest of the roof . Im no expert so this is only my 2 cents worth. Do you know anyone in the body work industry who could assist with better knowledge?
I suspect you may be right, which is why I haven't slathered on the bog yet.
I reckon the car back to orange and a cleared bare metal roof would look grouse.
No clear coat here
Cor mate! I've not heard that in about 30 years!! One of my Aussie mates used to say grouse a lot!!! Cheers. Leigh 🏴
60 grit is aggressive. Really. Get some wet and dry at 240 and go from there. Also SCA does a can of spray cold galv. It's cheap and effective. Just mist it over when you've got the rust under control. $25 for a can and you'll have heaps left.
It is aggressive but it did the trick
👍👍👍
Now to leave it for another year or so and do it all over again😂
@@Shanes_Shed nah, not this time
Can you "borrow" some carnage equipment, specifically a mic?
Yep, I've got one now. A lot of these first videos were shot in the first couple weeks. You'll have better audio moving forward.
... future episode of... 😅
So this car is getting a Hellephant and an 8 speed auto, right? 🤣
not unless you want to pay for it
*3 years later*
"On this episode, I'm gonna show you how to remove rust from the top of a 1968 valiant"
Haha I kid, looks sick Scotty
Might be a weird opinion but I think you should keep all the dings, and just clear coat it as it is without paint 🤷♂️
A few people have said that but I think I'll paint this one nice
@@blownhemi fair call, looking forward to seeing what you choose!
Old school orange with a white roof.
that Wagon needs a vynal roof
I wonder if they could do a vinyl roof on it, I'm not sure I've seen it done on a valiant wagon
@blownhemi you'd think so might hide abit of stuff underneath
🎉🎉🎉🎉😊
Where’s the story of Scotty’s weird childhood?!
Cars first, that'll be a few weeks
😜👍🇦🇺
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@@andrewbrown9460 witty reply