2000-2003 Toyota Tundra rear shoe brake job
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- Опубликовано: 23 мар 2021
- How to replace rear brake shoes, and hardware on a Tundra brake drum system. These are the same brake shoes for 1995-2003 Tacoma, 1993-1998 T100 Pickup, 1987-1995 pickup, and 1986-2004 4 Runner. with 589, or B589 shoes. 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1994 1996 1997 1999 2001 2002 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04
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Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. 
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Best Video I've seen on doing this job...No petting the dog,no kids running around just to the point...thank you
I have no dog, and no kids.
I had one that was squeaking, and eventually I fumbled through it successfully. I only wish I'd see this video before, you mentioned several points I've never heard before. Without even seeming to try, you made the best drum video I've seen in years. It's all about understanding how these things work.
Great video. I've owned my Tundra for 19 years and have changed the rear shoes several times, but as a refresher I always watch a how-to video on RUclips before I do any job and I think yours is the best brake video I've seen....and it also makes me wanna watch the movie, "Fargo". haha Thanks!
Simple and straightforward. Thank you for the time.
You have given me confidence to tackle our trusty 2001 Tundra with 215k! Thanks!
I put new hardware all the time. Something about it just makes my day.
It's all fun and games unit you have to replace the 25 buck back mounting shield...lol .... thx for the video
Thank you. Great demo. I'm on it now all by my big-boy self.
Very informative I was a bit confused by the brakes on this truck. 👍
always great info and well done!!
I agree with every else, best rear drum brake video for 1st gen Tundra. I have seen a bunch of them, and your technique makes the most sense in terms of ease and efficiency. My Tundra thanks you!
Great video!
You do make it look easy!
It was
Good video. I learned a lot.
excellent video !
I admire your brilliance. I hope you will instruct me how to bleed the sys.
I have other brake videos where I gravity bleed certain cars. That is usually how I do it.
Ok right a.
Thank you mister. Short a sweet. Simple stuff just like I like it!
i had no idea ray romano was going to teach me :o
good video. learnt a few things like the brake shoes should slide. wonder why you didn't put anti seize on the meshing side.
I use disc brake quiet.
Excellent video.... this gave me the confidence to do the work myself. I have done disk brakes for years and do them quite easily. I did the rear drums last week following your guidance but the end result looked pretty and clean but I have a very soft pedal. I have absolutely no parking brake. Before I start adjusting the parking brake is there anything I need to check with my work?
You want to adjust the shoes unil you feel a slight drag on the drums. You should feel it touch about 1/4 of the time every half revolution. Something lime that. Hard to explain. If your drum gets hot when you drive it, they are too tight.
I want my Rust Belt Auto TV.
Not gonna get it.
That tundra must be up north in the snow belt. Crazy amount of rust on those brakes😢
Hence the name Rust Belt Auto. This is the rust belt in automotive.
Best method! But for heavensake, clean it before installing.
I didn't want all that junk rubbing off on me, or my stuff.
That friggin return spring does not work very well with spring pliers. Thanks for the tip using vise grip wedged against the the wheel hub.
i'm behind a car you tagged in the chick fila drive through lmao
Sweet!
canadiens are awesome hey!
Minnesontan eh.
close enough. you know what cold is for sure. I have a friend from St Cloud. I live in southern Cal. We would not know how to work on a car like that rust bucket. wow@@RustBeltAuto
@@norcoauctions it's only 5*f today. Tomorrow will dip below 0. I'm gonna go shovel snow now.
Replacing the wheel cylinder might be a good idea the internal seals are worn out
If the pistons extend and there’s no leaks… They’re GOOD!
@@WEESHBONEsure they are like new ..is not my truck so i agree
Is there a primary and secondary shoe you forgot to mention
On has a pin, one does not? I think the shoe material were the same size on these. I don't notice shorter material on many new shoes anymore. Now I get to question myself. Thanks!
@@RustBeltAuto I think you did it right - if you see at 6:25, you replaced the left hand shoe with the correct (new) shoe...
Dude you must be in Maine
What? No. MN.
Minnasoda
"The victim" lol.
I caught that too! Hilarious!
Ughhh you put the smaller pad in the front. Backwards 11:20
Yes. Short pad front. I think I got that right? Been that way on cars for as long as I remember. The short pad is made that way to help the adjuster work. They usually don't work right anyways. Most now days are all the same.
Fffff