The new seal presses in until it stops. There is a machined recess in the axle housing the seal presses into, No need to measure anything. Check your Toyota service manual.
Hey guys , I just want to say. If you go to an auto parts store to get a seal. Tell them for the “ wheel seal “ and rear or front. They won’t go but axle shaft seal.
Just a note- the new OEM seal is an upgrade and comes with an inner spring, and.....the sealing surface of the seal is further back by approx 1.5mm. This will ensure that your axle will leak every time. When assembling paint sharpie marks on the bearing retainer (seal ring) and tighten up the assembly into the axle housing. Turn a few revolutions and remove, check where the seal is contacting the bearing retainer. If its real close to the chamfer, it will leak. How then do you correct this? Possibly by not pressing in the axle seal all the way- maybe you can place a shim behind the seal to bring it forward enough to make decent contact with the seal? I'll try this and update here again.
Have you tried setting the seal further from the center? I’m replacing mine tomorrow without a press. I replaced one two years ago and it’s leaking now.
I have to do this on my Tacoma , Toyota said the o ring is reusable , also did you drain it ? Or did you jack it up high on one side ? That was my plan
I did this on my 2003 toyota tundra but now leak coming from the middle of the axle (gear box). Do I need to take off the cover or drain it? Also is it imperative that I take off the abs sensor to put the inner seal?
I believe I have pin holes on the differential caused by rust allowing fluid to leak through so I think a patch will fix my problem, thanks for the help.
An old oil filter will fit perfectly in the axle tube and you can hammer on the oil filter with a rubber mallet and slowly press the seal in. The rubber around the edge of the oil filter even ensures you don't damage the seal.
@@theotherguy3083 I ended up buying an entire axle shaft, because they charge me 1k with labor and parts 😬 and I would to it myself but I have no space and no press machine, so I order a pre assemble axle just to switch over and swap the rest of the parts I went the easy way😬
@@andreiwestlake5827 alright so I got the wrong axle, I ended up just changing the seals to stop the leaks and thank God the differential leak stopped but I return the axle back and the one I need it’s roughly close to 500$ it was easy to put on and take off. But like I said I got the wrong part.
Get a brake controller. 1st gen tundra breaks are under built for the truck. If you tow any weight behind this half ton Tacoma lol.. you need a brake controller.
The new seal presses in until it stops. There is a machined recess in the axle housing the seal presses into, No need to measure anything. Check your Toyota service manual.
Check your rear diff vent tube for plugging when you find seal leak
I recommend doing the rear diff breather mod/relocation while doing this...after hacking someone's Instagram account. 🙄
Thank you for this comment, this was my issue.
Hey guys , I just want to say. If you go to an auto parts store to get a seal. Tell them for the “ wheel seal “ and rear or front. They won’t go but axle shaft seal.
Just a note- the new OEM seal is an upgrade and comes with an inner spring, and.....the sealing surface of the seal is further back by approx 1.5mm. This will ensure that your axle will leak every time. When assembling paint sharpie marks on the bearing retainer (seal ring) and tighten up the assembly into the axle housing. Turn a few revolutions and remove, check where the seal is contacting the bearing retainer. If its real close to the chamfer, it will leak. How then do you correct this?
Possibly by not pressing in the axle seal all the way- maybe you can place a shim behind the seal to bring it forward enough to make decent contact with the seal? I'll try this and update here again.
Have you tried setting the seal further from the center? I’m replacing mine tomorrow without a press. I replaced one two years ago and it’s leaking now.
Always grease the seal and axle before assembling when you dry it with brake clean there is no lube on the rubber seal and ends up burning the seal!!
Looks good. Next time add a little grease to the friction portion of the seal to prevent it burning out.
it's soaked in oil...there is no way to not get oil on all parts of this seal....
Great video. Liked & subbed.
Hi again, is their a name for the instrument you are using to pound the seal in? I can't seem to find anything that will do the job.
Hammering a used oil filter (rubber seal towards the axle port) also works!
They don't all go in so easy, I've destroyed 3 so far on the passenger side...a real bitch to get started.
Its called a seal driver
I keep getting a leak after replacing it but I never replaced that black oring always just rushed the old one
@joshuarhodes9022 usually if you keep getting a leak it is because u have over filled it. Try not to over fill it.
Check your vent that will bring pressure and cause it to leak
Good video brother and thanks
I have to do this on my Tacoma , Toyota said the o ring is reusable , also did you drain it ? Or did you jack it up high on one side ? That was my plan
@dogz115 if you don't need to remove the diff, you can do one side at a time.
@@theotherguy3083so when I jack it up like you did I won’t worry about gear oil coming out ?
@dogz115 there may be some oil coming out
Nice Video...thanks
That was pretty easy and I thought I was gonna have to you GM style on it!!! 😂😂😂
Just pulled my axle from 06 tundra double cab 4x4. Saw this spring ring behind the inner axle seal. What is it and where does it go?
Spring ring?
Don’t reference this video for 2007 Toyota Tundra totally different.
You forgot to route the parking brake cable under the guide, at the bottom of the shoes. I noticed it at the 8 min. mark.
Daryl G. I fixed afterwards. Nice catch
I did this on my 2003 toyota tundra but now leak coming from the middle of the axle (gear box). Do I need to take off the cover or drain it? Also is it imperative that I take off the abs sensor to put the inner seal?
Are you saying that your pinion seal is leaking?
@@theotherguy3083 No, I think the leak is coming from the other side of the pinion seal. Almost near the drain plug but the drain plug is dry.
@@noahfornuto6644 where the drive shaft slips into?
The bottom of the differential is where the leak is.
I believe I have pin holes on the differential caused by rust allowing fluid to leak through so I think a patch will fix my problem, thanks for the help.
Where did you get the utensil that you pressed the seal in with?
An old oil filter will fit perfectly in the axle tube and you can hammer on the oil filter with a rubber mallet and slowly press the seal in. The rubber around the edge of the oil filter even ensures you don't damage the seal.
Great insight. Thanks.
Did you have to bleed your brakes after this?
Yes.
nice seemed pretty easy..if you have those tools
Que números trae el retenedor de adentro? Mi tundra es del 2000 4.7 v8.
I don't understand
Did u have to drain diff fluid?
Yes.
This will work on a 2002 Toyota Sequoia right?
Should. It's the same concept
Love the content but you use the micrometer or whatever way too much 😂
What is the seal supposed to be ? I got one at the store and it doesn’t fit. It’s a hair bigger then the one already inside
Which one?
The Other Guy I got a national from O Rilleys
The Other Guy I think it was 80mm
@@Izzy-ww1vh did i show it on the video?
The Other Guy you didn’t show what brand it was.
Do u have to replace that black oring
@joshuarhodes9022 if you have the old one, you can usually get by with applying some black silicone to it.
I have a leak on a 2015 crew cab . Do. Is it similar procedures?
Tundra?
Yes a Tundra 2015 With The 5.7 v8 4x4
@@justotorres8970 it should be the same concept. Just remember to lube the inner seal with bearing grease
okay seams pretty straight forward. I have Ram 3500 Dually That I had to take apart and resealed this seams a little easier. Thankyou.
@@justotorres8970 a dually may have a free floating rear axle which may call for a different method. I have Never done a duallg before.
I bent like 5 of these damn things even with a sea press what’s the trick here!?
The trick is to go slow and not be in a hurry
Do I also have to put in new bearing seals ?
I would. If you have an old seal, replace it, or there is a great possibility that it will leak and then your bearing will be damaged again.
@@theotherguy3083 I ended up buying an entire axle shaft, because they charge me 1k with labor and parts 😬 and I would to it myself but I have no space and no press machine, so I order a pre assemble axle just to switch over and swap the rest of the parts I went the easy way😬
@@yoniiboi707did you use the dorman assembly? If so how is it holding up? I definitely just want the easy way lol
@@andreiwestlake5827 alright so I got the wrong axle, I ended up just changing the seals to stop the leaks and thank God the differential leak stopped but I return the axle back and the one I need it’s roughly close to 500$ it was easy to put on and take off. But like I said I got the wrong part.
What toyota is this?
The Title says tundra
What parts did you use
www.ebay.com/itm/252501607281
Haha messy garage same here
Work mthkn
Say man... this 1st gen brakes are awful. Ever do any upgrades?
somemedic I have not had problems with mine.
The Other Guy I've adjusted them.... changed them... and they're just ok but when pulling my pop up, they blow goats
somemedic I tow my 24ft RV and 21 ft. Boat. I don't have problem with my brakes at all.
Adjust your rear drum and check front calipers
Get a brake controller. 1st gen tundra breaks are under built for the truck. If you tow any weight behind this half ton Tacoma lol.. you need a brake controller.