I used both paper towels soaked in plaster and plaster sheets. Painted them with Apple valley country grey and added sifted dirt to the side of it to simulate ballast. When cleaning the dirt off the road it added a nice weathering effect to it.
For my 4X8 layout, I made a two lane pattern and cut the road out of a 4X8 sheet of Sintra sign board in a semi gloss black which was easily weathered. It was done in one piece with a router and added striping.
I didn't see this coming.. I thought for sure you going to use the plaster. I have lots of roads to do, and one part where the tracks run down the center of the road. thanks for sharing your tip and trick. your way definitely the clean way to go.
Nice idea👍. I use black glitter sheets ‘Silly Winks’ from Hobby Lobby. Cut with scissors, very easy and cheap. Spray with flat black paint to cover the shine.
I am using expanded pvc for roads (its thicker than styrène and softer, but it is nearly the same technic as yours ), and pigments pens for the road signs whick are easier to use than anything else I have tried
As I have said to you before, I use sheets of thin grey foam as is available from many hobby and craft shops. It can be cut to any shape and conforms perfectly to the contours of your layout. Lines can be painted on with acrylic paints and weathering can be done easily using your chosen method. I love artists pastels for road dirt. The foam is about 1.5mm thick and comes in a variety of sizes (and colours). It can be seen on the photos of the module of mine which you featured some months ago.
This is good. What I do for my roads is to design them on the computer using AutoCAD, print them out on card stock paper on my inkjet printer, spray adhesive them to foam paper, cut it out and then white glue it onto my layout. They look like real roads, it's quick and easy.
I think this will help with Jr's layout as he models N scale with the Kato track as well. I have been using Masonite for HO and using rerailers for the grade crossings. I also use TrainJunkie's road system which is a peel and stick vinyl that looks super realistic. Looks good Jimmy! - Jason
I have several crossings on my layout. There is a wooden crossing near the ranch and a street running scene through the main street of my town area. All of these have been done with 2mm styrene and they look great. Your method of doing the street markings will be used when I do those at a later date. Thanks for suggesting the foam brush and I'll get one of those when I get back from my brother's house after Christmas. Brilliant "How To" video, DJ. Good info. Cheers, Alan in Swansea UK.
Thanks for sharing your techniques. I do the same except I use 1mm EVA craft foam. I dig out pot holes and cracks with a craft knife. Done I buy black foam I just give it a wash with AK Interactive asphalt and weathering powders.
After seeing you using tape to create templates & how tricky it is to make curves using tape. I wondered why you did not use some sturdy material to create templates that would be less delicate & reusable. It seems to me that creating a template for a curves would be much easier, than using tape. Having a template for straight roads & curves, would speed up the process. You could create a template that would include the center & outer lines both. Allowing you to complete sections of road in one operation. Instead of laying tape down for each line. Which can be frustrating & time consuming. Using durable material would create a reusable, less fragile template. It would assist in making sure all roads were consistent in size & appearance. If it is a matter of material thickness. I think very thin material is available.
Nice work, I keep saying that I am not a rivet counter, but ... I did some quick research and scale correct dashes would be 3/4" long and the space between is 2 1/4". Your stripes look like the optical delusion we see when driving so good job, I have a feeling that exact scale won't look right to the eye, but it would be fun to test. For future reference for marking out the curved lines, 1/8" or 0.125 fine line tape is what the really good painters on Motor Trend channel (D Kindig and J Martin) come to mind. Then with the curve faired, you can extend out the mask with wider tape. I keep saying that I'm not a rivet counter, but I'm not sure I believe myself.
I was wondering if you were going to do the little tar patches. I was thinking, maybe a small application of fabric paint instead of a sharpie? To create a little raised effect...that is I'm just thinking and not even close to doing roads at this point.
Score and snap is okay but it leaves a slight lip along the score line. Just run an emery board along this to make it smooth. It make abutting the pieces much easier.
I enjoyed your clinic very much. I personally use black foam core for my roads which gives a very realistic asphalt road as well. I will try your lining method since my 1/32" pinstriping tape comes loose when subjected to head and cold in my garage. I don't think I'll have much luck on my switch-back curves up the side of my mountain though. Check my clinic Town & Factory.
Looks good Jimmy. I know that you like to do things cheap. Go to the $ store and pick up "For Sale" signs to make your roads. To help prevent the coupler trip pins from snagging the styrene pieces between the rails, tapper the ends down. Painting the lines is my down fall.
I used both paper towels soaked in plaster and plaster sheets. Painted them with Apple valley country grey and added sifted dirt to the side of it to simulate ballast. When cleaning the dirt off the road it added a nice weathering effect to it.
For my 4X8 layout, I made a two lane pattern and cut the road out of a 4X8 sheet of Sintra sign board in a semi gloss black which was easily weathered. It was done in one piece with a router and added striping.
I didn't see this coming.. I thought for sure you going to use the plaster. I have lots of roads to do, and one part where the tracks run down the center of the road. thanks for sharing your tip and trick.
your way definitely the clean way to go.
hope to see you and everyone on Dec 25 at 4 pm eastern for my Christmas day live stream, lots of gifts to be given away.
Merry Christmas Sparky!
Noted😎
You can always use a section of curve track for an outline for curves on your roads.
Nice job Jimmy, it definitely has to give you a good feeling to know you've done that yourself.
Nice idea👍. I use black glitter sheets ‘Silly Winks’ from Hobby Lobby. Cut with scissors, very easy and cheap. Spray with flat black paint to cover the shine.
Good video jimmy on the channel thank s lee
I am using expanded pvc for roads (its thicker than styrène and softer, but it is nearly the same technic as yours ), and pigments pens for the road signs whick are easier to use than anything else I have tried
As I have said to you before, I use sheets of thin grey foam as is available from many hobby and craft shops. It can be cut to any shape and conforms perfectly to the contours of your layout. Lines can be painted on with acrylic paints and weathering can be done easily using your chosen method. I love artists pastels for road dirt. The foam is about 1.5mm thick and comes in a variety of sizes (and colours). It can be seen on the photos of the module of mine which you featured some months ago.
This is good. What I do for my roads is to design them on the computer using AutoCAD, print them out on card stock paper on my inkjet printer, spray adhesive them to foam paper, cut it out and then white glue it onto my layout. They look like real roads, it's quick and easy.
I think this will help with Jr's layout as he models N scale with the Kato track as well. I have been using Masonite for HO and using rerailers for the grade crossings. I also use TrainJunkie's road system which is a peel and stick vinyl that looks super realistic. Looks good Jimmy! - Jason
Outstanding video and tutorial! Took notes!
Really good technique and I will use on my N layout. Thanks.
Great idea using styrene sheets. Looks great!! Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Happy modeling!! -Jason
A great option👍 Drywall dust in a home with a significant other can be a problem 😪 🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲
I use styrene for all my roads. In the city and side streets I glue .020x.040 on before painting for curbs. Great vid
At the corners there is always a radius, here in Florida the roads I was involved with the radius was 30’
FYI, prototype lines have glass beads on them, for visibility at night.
Have you tried acrylic paint pens for your lines etc? They work real well
I’ve used the pens from Woodland Scenics. They work well and also have an “Eraser” pen that you can use if you make a mistake.
That looked easier than spakel and less mess. It turned out great.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
The way you handled the road edge is something I had not thought about. Thank you for the tips and video.
Paul.
Nice that's what I use, I painted my lines
The roads came out fantastic! Thanks for showing your techniques I'm definitely using skyrim this time around
Looks like the way to good!!!! Seems simple to do. The only hard part maybe the spray painting & line work!! lol Stay Safe & God Bless!!
I have several crossings on my layout. There is a wooden crossing near the ranch and a street running scene through the main street of my town area. All of these have been done with 2mm styrene and they look great. Your method of doing the street markings will be used when I do those at a later date. Thanks for suggesting the foam brush and I'll get one of those when I get back from my brother's house after Christmas. Brilliant "How To" video, DJ. Good info.
Cheers, Alan in Swansea UK.
Learned a lot. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing your techniques. I do the same except I use 1mm EVA craft foam. I dig out pot holes and cracks with a craft knife. Done I buy black foam I just give it a wash with AK Interactive asphalt and weathering powders.
Awesome. That's it. I'm hooded. Your way is the best and alot cheaper. Thx jimmy.robb
Very cool and realistic way to make roads... especially in N scale. Thanks!
roads looks nice
Thanks for the Layout Technology. 👍
After seeing you using tape to create templates & how tricky it is to make curves using tape.
I wondered why you did not use some sturdy material to create templates that would be less delicate & reusable.
It seems to me that creating a template for a curves would be much easier, than using tape.
Having a template for straight roads & curves, would speed up the process. You could create a template that would include the center & outer lines both. Allowing you to complete sections of road in one operation. Instead of laying tape down for each line. Which can be frustrating & time consuming.
Using durable material would create a reusable, less fragile template.
It would assist in making sure all roads were consistent in size & appearance. If it is a matter of material thickness. I think very thin material is available.
Nice work, I keep saying that I am not a rivet counter, but ... I did some quick research and scale correct dashes would be 3/4" long and the space between is 2 1/4". Your stripes look like the optical delusion we see when driving so good job, I have a feeling that exact scale won't look right to the eye, but it would be fun to test.
For future reference for marking out the curved lines, 1/8" or 0.125 fine line tape is what the really good painters on Motor Trend channel (D Kindig and J Martin) come to mind. Then with the curve faired, you can extend out the mask with wider tape. I keep saying that I'm not a rivet counter, but I'm not sure I believe myself.
I was wondering if you were going to do the little tar patches. I was thinking, maybe a small application of fabric paint instead of a sharpie? To create a little raised effect...that is I'm just thinking and not even close to doing roads at this point.
Score and snap is okay but it leaves a slight lip along the score line. Just run an emery board along this to make it smooth. It make abutting the pieces much easier.
Can you protect the road lines from accidental ipa erasure with some kind of matte spray or sealant?
I enjoyed your clinic very much. I personally use black foam core for my roads which gives a very realistic asphalt road as well. I will try your lining method since my 1/32" pinstriping tape comes loose when subjected to head and cold in my garage. I don't think I'll have much luck on my switch-back curves up the side of my mountain though. Check my clinic Town & Factory.
Looks good Jimmy.
I know that you like to do things cheap. Go to the $ store and pick up "For Sale" signs to make your roads.
To help prevent the coupler trip pins from snagging the styrene pieces between the rails, tapper the ends down.
Painting the lines is my down fall.
i use 1/16" art tape for my roads center lines..but im in HO scale..
Be careful using the sharpie, it’s got a purple hue in a lot of different lighting.
Could you not use "narrow/medium tip" art markers for the lines? Truly, just asking
Did you ever consider a fine grit sandpaper for roads, especially for the smaller scales?
N-Scale road width 1 lane in each direction?
WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ORDER ON LINE THIS PRODUCT
Yeah spackle is a huge mess
Are you going to put the r.r. warming on the road
Yes! I am probably going to buy some road line sets for that.
Real road seams are stair-stepped. You can stairstep your lanes to break up the seams and it matches the real world!
Polystyrene, not styrene.
Looks fake.