Here's a philosophical question for you. I wondered sinds you said "I cross this overpass almost daily". Then why bother building it in scale ones you can see it easily n real live? I mean my layout is an other place and an other time. And I know, I over romantisice a little to create my own little "perfect" world. But what is your excuse? 🤔😉
O.K. - good question. I don't need an excuse to model anything really since I am driven by my emotional response to an experience. The emotional response can come from present day reality or history if the account is well presented - like a novel, a story, a painting, a photograph, a sculpture, or a movie. Furthermore, nothing is in scale anyway as I pointed out. Having said this, I still feel that specific details can be important since we resonate with them subconsciously. I can build the part no one else can see but what I imagine it to be. Subsequently, the unseen world outside our layout still seems plausible when my imagination is the arbitrator of the fictional world that supports my vision. From an artist's point of view, we cheat everything to maximize composition and to capture the spirit of a particular scene as we would like it to be. In this case, I model what I can see, but use artistic license to make it fit my space in the same way I would on a canvas. I break all the rules as I see fit in order to capture the feel of the scene according to my emotions - but then this is what artists do. Cheers ~ Boomer. 😉😁
@@boomerdiorama Great, thanks for the elaboration. Yes we al make choices, be it conscious or non conscious. It starts to get interesting ones you start realizing the non conscious part and use that knowledge to improve up on your choices. Lately I have come to realize that the way I do and make things is heavenly shaped by my history as an graphic artist and illustrator and that the choices I make are much influenced by the images and art I like and up to know non consciously used for inspiration and reverens.
I really enjoy your weekend videos, same excitement as a kid with cereal and a good weekend morning. :) Thanks for taking the time to make these, I know we all appreciate it. 👍
The one thing I get from all of your tutorials is patience. You plan everything out, then you work that plan at a calm pace to accomplish your goals. I know so many modelers who blast through their projects, and I really don't believe they take enjoyment from the process. Thanks for giving permission for us to slow down and enjoy the journey. Cheers.
That is a great observation which I take for granted. Yes indeed . . . I enjoy every single aspect of model railroading. Some more than others of course . . . ;-)
Dear Boomer, it’s a great pleasure to watch the Duncan Way develop and form, from a simple idea to a piece of art in a single episode. Absolutely amazing how the different texture pastes work together. Love the crackle paste, even how it performs on smaller batches. Several layers is indeed the way to go, provided we’re not looking for the instant result. Whether we’re talking model railroading or any other hobby or art form, ‘instant’ doesn’t allow for the happy accident and/or the inevitable lessons of failure and its sometimes surprising and unexpected consequences and results. Cheerio
Enjoyed this video immensely. Your remarks about not being afraid to experiment as an artist hit home as much as the techniques you showed and the great results you achieved. Due to having spent years in manufacturing, I have developed a mentality of relying on favorite ways of doing things- "We do it this way because it works." As you pointed out, that is not conducive to exploring new ideas. No growth without risk.
Wow, that crackle paste really is the thing that brings out realism. I never heard of that product but it gives nice results and endless possibilities. Your railway is looking so very awesome.
The trick to crackle paste is to make sure the surface is sealed underneath it. Otherwise it won't work. I seal the base layer with varathane or other acrylic skim coats as well.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks for posting that tip, this stuff would have been gold or mana from heaven when was building trains along time ago, but it might come back and I will definitely try that as it look great.
Been meaning to say this for awhile, you reminded me when you referred to the Overpass build. Thank you for your "aside" mentions of specific Vlog topics and their #'s. I am a subscriber to a number of "How To" type channels over years, (like yours) and it is difficult, sometimes to remember when and where you saw that particular thing you want to revisit. I still go back to Glover Road sometimes to put a fine point on some technique I want to try. Thanks again, cheers!
@@boomerdiorama We have 2 cats and the oldest just (and I mean in the last 5 minutes) killed a mouse in the living room. Yuchhhhhhh !!!!! Wish I knew what they were thinkng also...
@@boomerdiorama well you are a pleasure to watch and listen to as well. The way you explain the way you apply material to the medium and transform it into art is an art format in and of itself
Thank you. The main reason why I did this was because I did the overpass (Vlog # 118) this way and I thought it would contradict the method I already used. It's subtle but looks great from almost any angle. You can see it fairly well, especially when you put a vehicle on it.
Great video and a beautiful layout. I am always amused to see your cat on the layout. If I brought my cat to your layout, anything that was not nailed down would be fair game to be a toy. You are very lucky to have a companion that is very respectful of your work.
This is why I support your channel Boomer. An absolute master class. You inspire me to take on tasks which I would otherwise feel are beyond my ability.
It’s funny because you’re absolutely correct. I’ve been using golden and liquitex products my whole life, but had never considered them for modeling. You’ve shown me how to use these products plus the skills I’ve learned over the years and apply them to model railroading.
What is the difference between canvas or board once you "gesso" it? Flexibility vs Rigidity accepts all mediums if they are acrylic and have the texture to adhere to . . . ;-)
@@boomerdiorama you got me with the Frasier River. You kept saying you were going to paint it and I kept thinking what the heck are you talking about painting it? Then when I asked you the response immediately brought back a flash of images of all the classic Dutch paintings of Amsterdam I remember from art school. Then everything made a lot of sense. I’m definitely trying that on my next project.
Hi Boomer .. Bob again Hey I just came across an old Twilight Zone episode that I recall you mentioning years ago in a video. Stopover in a Quiet Town. You were right perfect for model railroaders! lol Cheers Bob
Boomer, Now that this xing area is almost finished we need to get yourself and your side kick ( Dusty) down here to fix a rail crossing. The tar seal has sunk between the rails to be below the rail tops in places. Traffic light goes green the car bounce's through it. It's a wonder one's back teeth are still in place. Trucks love it at speed, in the rain making tidal waves as they cross. The rail and crossing are not long for this world but it hangs on like a creaking gate for another year or two. But I love how in the last two weeks all the road markings have been repainted, just like new. Sunday's are just the best, thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
I'm very grateful that you made this video, and made the comment about compacting everything in your scenes / dioramas, because I've tried twice to start building a layout, but never had space to recreate things in scale. For example, years ago, I worked in a warehouse that received stuff by rail, and truck, and I wanted to model that warehouse but it would occupy at least 8 feet on my layout if I modeled it's dimensions in 1:87. So, now I can rethink my problem, now that I live in a smaller space, and use artistic license to recreate what I once experienced.
That's got to be one of the best model railway roads I've ever seen. They are usually so bad that they'll take me right out of the scene, like the road was an afterthought at best. Well done sir!
Having spent 30+ years around underground utility and heavy highway construction, it's great to see you modeled the cross slope of the roadwar. FYI the normal cross slope is 2%. The absence of the cross slope is one of those glaring (to me) mistakes that I see on so many layouts. The asphalt used for pavement is a petroleum product. While it makes a great pavement, traffic will quickly remove the asphalt from the top of the aggregate on the roadway surface. I've seen aggregate from very light gray to yellow brown to redish brown. This can give a variety of different secondary colors in the pavement. Another great tutorial
I love it up in the Western Mountains where they use the byproducts from Red Granite in their asphalt. The roads themselves are pinkish, especially after the tar fades.
Great tutorial Boomer! I found working in a hobby shop the the model railroaders tended to stick to the tried and true! They never went beyond the railroad section for the old reliable products. Its almost like there was an imaginary line drawn on the floor separating the military products from the railroad products and the railroaders would not cross that line! I tried to introduce as many as possible to the many products available to them if they would only think outside the box. I’m finally noticing that they are using some of the military stains and products for weathering. What they don’t realize is the all there trusted products have their roots in the art world! Thanks for showing that there is more out there if they would only look!
I have a modeling friend that's just like that... His scenery modeling techniques are forever frozen in 1988. I joke with him all the time that "...there's always zip texturing if you can't find any died sawdust...". The only mostly "modern" technique he uses is gloss medium for modeling water. I guess some of us are more creatures of habit than others...
That is the truth about thinking outside the mainstream box Ralph. I never grew up pre-conditioned by the model railroad. I grew up with small railroads and military modeling, etc. Any product is game for me when it comes to being creative in order to push the envelope. Thanks for sharing!
It's the safe methodology thing. Do what is safe and don't make mistakes. That is a stifling rut to get into and you learn nothing really unless you push outside the box and make mistakes. Mistakes are 2% of all the 98% of success you glean from taking risks and being creative.
I am truly watching an artist at work here -being a trained artist (Drawing and Painting), I appreciate the way you use "non-standard" products to achieve the look and texture you are after. Fine art materials, though not cheap, really can open up a whole new perspective on how we, as modelers approach our hobby. Bravo, from Melbourne, Australia.
Awesome, thank you! Hobby paints are not cheap either. I find the artist paint to go much further because the pigment is superior with Golden and Liquitex. ;-)
Hi Boomer. Entertaining and informative production as always. One of the things I enjoy is how your discussions always cause me to become more aware of the world around me. Tonight as I was coming home from work, I suddenly noticed a short stretch of road approaching an intersection. I became aware of the cracks and other segments of crumbling concrete and in some places, the asphalt fill the public works crew stuck in some of the cracks and got me to thinking about how to reproduce that. Thanks for making me think. lol. Have a great night.
That sounds awesome. There is something about modeling those little details we often take for granted. It makes us feel better about the simple world we create. Furthermore, it adds context and builds confidence with greater purpose and meaning. Thanks for sharing! Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Boomer, great video on road crossing, I really enjoyed, and got lots out of it. Diud Dusty approve the job, I see she was inspecting it? You are always giving new techniques on how to do things. I really appreciate it. Thank you for sharing, cheers, and take care, Michael
Thank you for the demo and the reasoning behind it! A little 1 foot stub of a curved and cracked road with camber along with curb, gutter, sidewalk and striping. A thing of beauty!
Very nice Boomer. Interesting products. Most of my roads are already completed but I might have to scrap them and try these techniques with these products after watching this video.
I have a newfound love for higher-end art supplies and the effects you can achieve using them. Thanks, Boomer, see my Jr. Boomer parking lot with Crackle Paste.
Great lessons. I too had an allergic reaction to CA a while back. I was installing grab irons, and had my face real close to the model so I could see. Didn't have my fan on cause I didn't want the CA to dry out. Suffered for two days with sinus issues. Lesson learned. FAN = ON.
Hey Boomer I’m a little late at commenting this week, real life carries on in the background eh? lol Good stuff… love the end result . I especially love where the asphalt meets the ballast at the grade crossing , great look! Anyway keep up the good work. Looking forward to the new section. Cheers from Ontario Bob
That was great. I I’ve been putting off doing some road work because I wasn’t sure about how to go about it. I’ve used styrene last time with good results. Needed another way of doing it this time. Thanks for the inspiration and showing how to do things. Thanks Boomer…👍🏻
I used styrene on Glover Road because I had it lying around in big sheets and wanted to use it up. I prefer sealed balsa wood and multiple layers of acrylic paste for effects. I only use acrylic to fill between the rails and close in track. The larger paved surfaces I love to use 1/8" Balsa Wood sealed with varathane - then effects with skimmed acrylic paste, etc. With balsa wood you can easily cut it and shape it while adding to it as well. Plus it's light weight and stable beyond what plaster can only dream of.
If I really ever got the chance to see your layout (ya, right), the first thing I’d do is to look under it for sewer pipes 😂 it would be just like you to do that 👍🏻😂 Ron
Hi Boomer I use fine granite dust mixed with various fillers it gives a great concrete effect but have yet use the crackle past ,I’ll be in the hobby shop tomorrow. Regards Fred
Very nice crossing Boomer!! Here in Anderson Indiana NS just rebuilt several crossings on the old Big 4 line north and this time instead of using the the rubber inserts they just lined the inside and outside edges of the Rail heads with ties and paved the crossing with standard asphalt with metal ends for low hanging equipment on the train!!! I'm looking forward to the plastic plant build!!! Cheers!!!!
@boomerdioramas I liked your comment on the Forklifts crossing the tracks, before I became a Trucker I worked at a Firestone Rubber plant, we had a Conrail siding to the plant, I had gotten my work for my shift done a little early one night and was out rummaging thru the old discarded machines, when I started back into the plant I crossed back over the siding track and one of the back tires of my Forklift got stuck in the crossing, my boss came out with a chain on another lift and got me unstuck then proceeded to tell me to stay on the road, he told the day supervisor that morning and he proceeded to tell me a story about my supervisor, back when he worked on the dock he was loading a Boxcar and lunch time came and he parked his lift in the Boxcar and went to lunch, in the meantime Conrail showed up and took that Boxcar and left and when he came back from lunch he freaked out and told his boss and Firestone had to contact Conrail and have them bring the Boxcar back!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@boomerdioramas I have another good one to that, we were a Union Plant, to get a forklift job you had to get there on Seniority, this new forklift driver started on my shift and She had to move bags of Carbon Black from the Receiving dock up to the Banberry where the raw rubber is mixed with the Carbon Black, now these bags are about 7000 Lbs and they are sitting on heavy duty skids, when She went under the skid She had Her forks slightly tilted up and they punctured the bag and She didn't notice and drove to the other end of the plant with the bag leaking all of the Black powder all the way down the Isle, this plant was about 3 blocks long from one end to the other, we spent about 3 hours as a group sweeping that stuff up so we could save as much as we could, what a night!!! Cheers!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I really love your layout! This overpass over the street is awesome! It makes me think of a two roads built similar in Saint Louis where I am from. NS and the switching railroad TRRA have lines that run across the street at ground level.
Good morning Boomer. You have said your shelf is 57 inches high. I have a non-railroad question. How does Rusty get up there? My two won't come near mine and its only 42 inches high. I enjoy your painting lessons and have been practicing the wash techniques you employ. Not quite Boomer quality, but certainly better than if I had not watched your tutorials. Please keep doing what you do.
If I leave the door open Dusty can just jump up there. Although, she won't if I am not working on it. She only seems interested when I am interested which is kind of cool. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama We have two cats, sisters 12years old. They can easily jump 2 metres onto a shelf. Your cat appears when you are working as a supervisor. The warning is.. if the cat doesn't approve it may piss, and that is a diabolically caustic fluid that will corrode metals AND destroy any MDF board/moulding, far worse than plain water will.
The actual video of the right angle didn't turn out. It was out of focus. But then this happens, unfortunately, when you shoot thousands of videos. Some fail. Hopefully I can revisit the technique again when I do the Glover Road part on section three.
@@JackOnTracks I lose video all the time due to out-of-focus or poor audio which I won't publish. It's tough when everything you do has to be organized to make it all work in limited time.
I’ve definitely used plaster as concrete. It does like to suck in moisture, which I think is something you were getting at partly. I don’t have track going over my sections so I felt free to use the varathane like what you’ve used before. It was night and day. I’m excited, once we get into a new house I’m going to work in a shelf layout about the size of Glover Road and hopefully I’ll get to spend time on it similarly.
Perfect timing! I have two crossing I need to do. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I know you're not the biggest fan of electronics, but if you want your crossing lights completely prototype, let me know. I've designed and built a controller that would make you proud!
Another great video. I'm going to be doing at least a few road crossings, and this is chockablock full of things to try on at least a couple of them. On my second watch-through now and I know I'll be reviewing it again when I get ready for that first crossing later this month. Thanks!
What a timely video.I have been thinking about redoing some roads on shelf layout. Using the acrylic median is great, as I use liquetex in my paintings. Thanks for the info.
Good class bud. I find that guys I know us plaster because of cost. The expense of artist supplies shies them away. I know my wife thinks I’m nuts for using our art supplies on my shelf layout. 🤪
Yeah . . . but those same guys have dozens of boxcars and rolling stock they wish they never purchased. What's a twenty dollar tub of acrylic at the end of the day? ;-)
Another great video Boomer! Love the colors and weathering of your track work. I have some tie/track painting to do in the near future and I hope I can execute your techniques even half as good as you have.
I am reminded of (at least) 3 locations. 1. Cardiff Docks and the industrial/dockside trackage. 2. Barry Docks and the trackage around the flour mill and our 'sweeper berth (now gone). 3. Video footage of SP/UP/ASTF/ trackage in Wilmington CA taken from the air after a LPG powered truck explosion...
You are the first person I have ever heard of that is also allergic to CA. I wound up in hospital after one marathon day of modelling using that stuff. On the brighter side, whenever I get asked by a medical professional if I have any allergies, it's fun to watch their face when I say "Sure, to Crazy Glue" !!! Great video on road construction. I can use that right away.
I actually did start modeling some functioning storm sewers on my layout.well technically under my layout I guess.cant see most of it but I know it's there.
@@boomerdiorama so the first color that you put between the tracks on the paved section was thinned with water, dropped onto the lid, then more water to thin more before the blue/gray was added? I just want to make sure before I tackle this, I don't mess up...too much..🤷🏽♂️
I got a few paw prints in my ballast a few years back while it was setting up. Most got covered up but there's one you can see if you look for it. I was bent out of shape at first, but now it's kinda cool. Looks like a dino print.
It looks amazing as always Boomer. Out of curiosity, what materials would you use to approach a dirt road? A well packed road but maybe with some shallow ruts.
Most likely (water-based) Cell-Clay or Sculptamold. It has a nice texture, dry's hard and light weight. It also takes paint well. I love the stuff for terrain work as you describe.
Beauty Wally ... Boomer, I love the results you have achieved here. I've re-watched this video 3 times because I'd like to try the same methods. Would you mind elaborating just a little on how you construct the flangeways? So you have your flex track laid through the crossing area. Now you tack a piece of square tube styrene to the inside edge of the rail??? And then you glue a metal L angle to the inside of that to stay permanently when the styrene is removed??? Did I get that right??? If so, can you advise the size of the styrene square tube and size of the L angle that you used??? I guess the L angle needs to reflect the size of rail so that would depend upon me using code 83 or code 70 rail through the crossing right??? Sorry to be a pain in the but I'd really like to learn your method to try and achieve similar results... thanks for sharing.
The "L" angle is plastic as well. Just make sure the angle and the square stock are the same height. Find the size according to the code rail height. Just glue the angle (not the square stock) to the ties with small spots of super glue while holding the square stock against the inside of the rail. Skim coat the tracks several times with the acrylic paste.Then pull out the square stock when dry. The angle should stay in place. Then tweak and paint things. 😁
I used textured paste on my piggyback ramp...painted first...then washes....had 0 experience with the product and it came out great. Next time will be better now that i have a feel for it.
Awesome. The more you use this stuff the better you get at it. I mean the next time. The learning curve is quite rewarding in a short period of time. You can also pre-tint the acrylic paste with acrylic paint as well for additional effects. Cheers ~ Boomer.
When applying the 4 X 4 to the inside of the track, what kind of glue do you use to make the plastic stick to the rail. Please!! I understand that the second time ( or other times ) that it is a press fit, but what about the first time??I love the fine tooled edge instead of the jagged scraped edge that comes with a saw blade. I've noticed that in some very used places here in Indiana the rail road has put metal in the space between the rails and this has to be replaces not near so much as the concrete or pavement. Also, when laying the 1/4 mile ribbon rail the road drops the rail along side the current rail. When they come to a crossing (at least here in my town) they dig a trench outside the track and place the new rail in the trench and then put pavement over the rail. This is a way to store the rail in one piece until they come to replace the current rail. I noticed that one of out steel plants has laid track just inside the main track and paved inside of that. The second track makes a very impressive flange area and looks great.
I sand the top of the ties (with 60 grit) to introduce "tooth" and then I use medium CA to clamp down the angle piece while tucking in the square stock. I put a bead of CA on the outside of the angle (middle of the track) so as not to glue in the square stock. Then I fill with acrylic paste (between the angle stock) and skim it. The acrylic will anchor the angle in place over the CA once it cures, and the square stock will pull out easily. I love this method because it works beautifully if you see track as a model. ;-)
I'm also allergic to CA. It took some time to figure out, but whenever I used CA for more than a few minutes, next day I felt like a bad cold, just like a sore throat. I tried to use other glues but for some materials CA is the only stuff that works. I finally came across the green labeled odorless CA from Uhu. That stuff I can use for hours without ANY symptoms. I don't know if they sell it in Canada, but if they do I strongly recommend trying it.
The opaque mediums dry grey to white and the transparent mediums dry clear to satin. They also have flat and glossy versions as well. Golden and Liquitex cover all the bases and you can color tint them to your heart's content as well. ;-)
Have a question. I am modeling an overpass embankment. I wan to make it from wood and then skim it with molding paste to make it look like concreter. Should I seal the wood with Varithane befor applying the paste?
The acrylic cures hard as nails eventually and is just below the rail head. I never mentioned this, but you can pre-tint the acrylic medium to any color you want as well. When it cures you can sand it all day long without affecting the color other than scuffing it a little. Same goes for once you paint the ceramic layer. It looks like normal wear & tear.
Hey Boomer, do you mix the crackle paste and the stucco and the sand together as one mix and then lay it out, or do you do a separate layer of each on top of the other? Also, when you do multiple skim coats, I can see that it eventually adds some thickness. How do you hide the thickness at the edges ?
I like to skim coat separate layers while letting each one dry. This way you learn more about each product and the varied effects you can achieve for other purposes. There is some minimal thickness that occurs when you build up layers but they do shrink a fair bit so that minimizes any build up on the edges. You can also lightly sand after a few weeks cure time as well.
Walther's used to have plastic hoppers but discontinued them nearly a decade ago which I don't understand why because they offer their plastic silo industry in their cornerstone series but discontinued the rail cars that go with the industry which doesn't make sense to me and it's very disappointing to me because I love using Walther's products on my layouts...
Here's a philosophical question for you. I wondered sinds you said "I cross this overpass almost daily". Then why bother building it in scale ones you can see it easily n real live? I mean my layout is an other place and an other time.
And I know, I over romantisice a little to create my own little "perfect" world.
But what is your excuse? 🤔😉
O.K. - good question.
I don't need an excuse to model anything really since I am driven by my emotional response to an experience. The emotional response can come from present day reality or history if the account is well presented - like a novel, a story, a painting, a photograph, a sculpture, or a movie.
Furthermore, nothing is in scale anyway as I pointed out. Having said this, I still feel that specific details can be important since we resonate with them subconsciously. I can build the part no one else can see but what I imagine it to be. Subsequently, the unseen world outside our layout still seems plausible when my imagination is the arbitrator of the fictional world that supports my vision.
From an artist's point of view, we cheat everything to maximize composition and to capture the spirit of a particular scene as we would like it to be.
In this case, I model what I can see, but use artistic license to make it fit my space in the same way I would on a canvas. I break all the rules as I see fit in order to capture the feel of the scene according to my emotions - but then this is what artists do. Cheers ~ Boomer. 😉😁
@@boomerdiorama Great, thanks for the elaboration. Yes we al make choices, be it conscious or non conscious. It starts to get interesting ones you start realizing the non conscious part and use that knowledge to improve up on your choices.
Lately I have come to realize that the way I do and make things is heavenly shaped by my history as an graphic artist and illustrator and that the choices I make are much influenced by the images and art I like and up to know non consciously used for inspiration and reverens.
I really enjoy your weekend videos, same excitement as a kid with cereal and a good weekend morning. :) Thanks for taking the time to make these, I know we all appreciate it. 👍
O.K. Thank you for sharing!
Every video feels like a masterclass, with the explanations of why things are being done and the tips on what won't work from past experience.
Well that is a nice word of encouragement. 😁Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer. 😉
The one thing I get from all of your tutorials is patience. You plan everything out, then you work that plan at a calm pace to accomplish your goals. I know so many modelers who blast through their projects, and I really don't believe they take enjoyment from the process. Thanks for giving permission for us to slow down and enjoy the journey. Cheers.
That is a great observation which I take for granted. Yes indeed . . . I enjoy every single aspect of model railroading. Some more than others of course . . . ;-)
Dear Boomer, it’s a great pleasure to watch the Duncan Way develop and form, from a simple idea to a piece of art in a single episode.
Absolutely amazing how the different texture pastes work together. Love the crackle paste, even how it performs on smaller batches. Several layers is indeed the way to go, provided we’re not looking for the instant result. Whether we’re talking model railroading or any other hobby or art form, ‘instant’ doesn’t allow for the happy accident and/or the inevitable lessons of failure and its sometimes surprising and unexpected consequences and results. Cheerio
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Enjoyed this video immensely. Your remarks about not being afraid to experiment as an artist hit home as much as the techniques you showed and the great results you achieved. Due to having spent years in manufacturing, I have developed a mentality of relying on favorite ways of doing things- "We do it this way because it works." As you pointed out, that is not conducive to exploring new ideas. No growth without risk.
Well said!
The Zen of model railroading.
It feels cool for sure . . . ;-)
Thanks for the Sunday evening tutorial. I learn so much and am always inspired.
You are so welcome!
Wow, that crackle paste really is the thing that brings out realism. I never heard of that product but it gives nice results and endless possibilities. Your railway is looking so very awesome.
The trick to crackle paste is to make sure the surface is sealed underneath it. Otherwise it won't work. I seal the base layer with varathane or other acrylic skim coats as well.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks for posting that tip, this stuff would have been gold or mana from heaven when was building trains along time ago, but it might come back and I will definitely try that as it look great.
Been meaning to say this for awhile, you reminded me when you referred to the Overpass build. Thank you for your "aside" mentions of specific Vlog topics and their #'s. I am a subscriber to a number of "How To" type channels over years, (like yours) and it is difficult, sometimes to remember when and where you saw that particular thing you want to revisit. I still go back to Glover Road sometimes to put a fine point on some technique I want to try. Thanks again, cheers!
O.K. Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thank you for sharing the use of these alternative materials and the extremely realistic effects they produce !
My pleasure!
When Dusty walks along the track, it looks like a preview of "Attack of The Giant Cats" !!!!!!!
Lol . . . I wonder what she thinks at times about it.
@@boomerdiorama We have 2 cats and the oldest just (and I mean in the last 5 minutes) killed a mouse in the living room. Yuchhhhhhh !!!!! Wish I knew what they were thinkng also...
@@davidcurtis5398 No mice in this house. Dusty won't allow a bug to survive . . . lol. 🤣
@@boomerdiorama First mouse in many years. Don't know where it came from though.
You are truly the Bob Ross of 3-D art.
Bob Ross was certainly fun to watch in the day. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama well you are a pleasure to watch and listen to as well. The way you explain the way you apply material to the medium and transform it into art is an art format in and of itself
You sir are an artist , the camber , your the first I have ever seen on building roads using the technique
Thank you. The main reason why I did this was because I did the overpass (Vlog # 118) this way and I thought it would contradict the method I already used. It's subtle but looks great from almost any angle. You can see it fairly well, especially when you put a vehicle on it.
Great video and a beautiful layout. I am always amused to see your cat on the layout. If I brought my cat to your layout, anything that was not nailed down would be fair game to be a toy. You are very lucky to have a companion that is very respectful of your work.
Dusty was raised as a kitten on Glover Road. She learned early on how to behave. Not many loose things lying around either. ;-)
This is why I support your channel Boomer. An absolute master class. You inspire me to take on tasks which I would otherwise feel are beyond my ability.
You are awesome Peter! Thank you! Cheeers ~ Boomer.
It’s funny because you’re absolutely correct. I’ve been using golden and liquitex products my whole life, but had never considered them for modeling. You’ve shown me how to use these products plus the skills I’ve learned over the years and apply them to model railroading.
What is the difference between canvas or board once you "gesso" it? Flexibility vs Rigidity accepts all mediums if they are acrylic and have the texture to adhere to . . . ;-)
@@boomerdiorama you got me with the Frasier River. You kept saying you were going to paint it and I kept thinking what the heck are you talking about painting it? Then when I asked you the response immediately brought back a flash of images of all the classic Dutch paintings of Amsterdam I remember from art school. Then everything made a lot of sense. I’m definitely trying that on my next project.
I can't get enough of your beautiful work!!! Please keep doing this!
O.K. 👍Please enjoy the content at your convenience. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Thanks for all you do for the hobby Boomer! love the flangeway tips!
My pleasure! Thank you for supporting the channel the way you do! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Hi Boomer .. Bob again
Hey I just came across an old Twilight Zone episode that I recall you mentioning years ago in a video. Stopover in a Quiet Town. You were right perfect for model railroaders! lol
Cheers
Bob
That Twilight Zone episode prompted many new model railroaders to engage the hobby . . . lol.
Great job cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Absolutely Gorgeous .... That is PERFECT!!!! 😍
Thank you! Cheers!
Boomer, Now that this xing area is almost finished we need to get yourself and your side kick ( Dusty) down here to fix a rail crossing. The tar seal has sunk between the rails to be below the rail tops in places. Traffic light goes green the car bounce's through it. It's a wonder one's back teeth are still in place. Trucks love it at speed, in the rain making tidal waves as they cross. The rail and crossing are not long for this world but it hangs on like a creaking gate for another year or two. But I love how in the last two weeks all the road markings have been repainted, just like new. Sunday's are just the best, thank you. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Sounds like a few crossings out here until they rebuilt them recently.
I'm very grateful that you made this video, and made the comment about compacting everything in your scenes / dioramas, because I've tried twice to start building a layout, but never had space to recreate things in scale.
For example, years ago, I worked in a warehouse that received stuff by rail, and truck, and I wanted to model that warehouse but it would occupy at least 8 feet on my layout if I modeled it's dimensions in 1:87.
So, now I can rethink my problem, now that I live in a smaller space, and use artistic license to recreate what I once experienced.
Just compress the building or scene. You don't need everything. Just model what impresses you. Impression requires compression. ;-)
That's got to be one of the best model railway roads I've ever seen. They are usually so bad that they'll take me right out of the scene, like the road was an afterthought at best. Well done sir!
Yeah. Some road crossings are in brutal shape to say the least.
Having spent 30+ years around underground utility and heavy highway construction, it's great to see you modeled the cross slope of the roadwar. FYI the normal cross slope is 2%. The absence of the cross slope is one of those glaring (to me) mistakes that I see on so many layouts.
The asphalt used for pavement is a petroleum product. While it makes a great pavement, traffic will quickly remove the asphalt from the top of the aggregate on the roadway surface. I've seen aggregate from very light gray to yellow brown to redish brown. This can give a variety of different secondary colors in the pavement.
Another great tutorial
Thanks for sharing!
I love it up in the Western Mountains where they use the byproducts from Red Granite in their asphalt. The roads themselves are pinkish, especially after the tar fades.
Great tutorial Boomer! I found working in a hobby shop the the model railroaders tended to stick to the tried and true! They never went beyond the railroad section for the old reliable products. Its almost like there was an imaginary line drawn on the floor separating the military products from the railroad products and the railroaders would not cross that line! I tried to introduce as many as possible to the many products available to them if they would only think outside the box. I’m finally noticing that they are using some of the military stains and products for weathering. What they don’t realize is the all there trusted products have their roots in the art world! Thanks for showing that there is more out there if they would only look!
I have a modeling friend that's just like that... His scenery modeling techniques are forever frozen in 1988. I joke with him all the time that "...there's always zip texturing if you can't find any died sawdust...". The only mostly "modern" technique he uses is gloss medium for modeling water.
I guess some of us are more creatures of habit than others...
That is the truth about thinking outside the mainstream box Ralph. I never grew up pre-conditioned by the model railroad. I grew up with small railroads and military modeling, etc. Any product is game for me when it comes to being creative in order to push the envelope. Thanks for sharing!
It's the safe methodology thing. Do what is safe and don't make mistakes. That is a stifling rut to get into and you learn nothing really unless you push outside the box and make mistakes. Mistakes are 2% of all the 98% of success you glean from taking risks and being creative.
@@boomerdiorama Like you my modelling is all over the map! I guess thats why I feel so comfortable do what I do!
A great model railroader scenery builder once said "emphasize the ordinary". You have done that. Great job. ThX for the video.
Thank you very much!
Another great Sunday morning video. And another set of paint colors to add to the inventory. Cheers!!
Blue Grey is a great color for sure!
I am truly watching an artist at work here -being a trained artist (Drawing and Painting), I appreciate the way you use "non-standard" products to achieve the look and texture you are after. Fine art materials, though not cheap, really can open up a whole new perspective on how we, as modelers approach our hobby. Bravo, from Melbourne, Australia.
Awesome, thank you! Hobby paints are not cheap either. I find the artist paint to go much further because the pigment is superior with Golden and Liquitex. ;-)
Hi Boomer. Entertaining and informative production as always. One of the things I enjoy is how your discussions always cause me to become more aware of the world around me. Tonight as I was coming home from work, I suddenly noticed a short stretch of road approaching an intersection. I became aware of the cracks and other segments of crumbling concrete and in some places, the asphalt fill the public works crew stuck in some of the cracks and got me to thinking about how to reproduce that. Thanks for making me think. lol. Have a great night.
That sounds awesome.
There is something about modeling those little details we often take for granted. It makes us feel better about the simple world we create.
Furthermore, it adds context and builds confidence with greater purpose and meaning.
Thanks for sharing! Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Amazing work. Gonna have to watch this a couple more times...
Oh . . . thank you. Much appreciated.
Duncan Way turned out nice! That liquitex crackle paste stuff looks great.
It is!
Your videos are always so inspirational for me building my shelf layout. Thank you for your time and energy in making some great learning videos !!
Thank you for sharing that Tony. You are welcome.😁
Boomer, great video on road crossing, I really enjoyed, and got lots out of it.
Diud Dusty approve the job, I see she was inspecting it?
You are always giving new techniques on how to do things. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for sharing, cheers, and take care, Michael
Glad you enjoyed it
Your teaching me patience. Something I've neededfor a long time. I know my modeling will get better.
Great to hear!
Dusty to funny godzilla cat we just ordered all the items to make trees. Thanks for videos learning alot .
Good to hear and thanks for sharing!
Two great takeaways....layers and slow down! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Thank you for the demo and the reasoning behind it! A little 1 foot stub of a curved and cracked road with camber along with curb, gutter, sidewalk and striping. A thing of beauty!
Imagine doing eight feet or so . . . lol.
I am glad to see that Dusty is still in charge.
;-)
Another great learning experience for me. Thanks!!
Glad to hear it!
Another top notch tutorial. I have learned so much from you. Thank you for taking the time ( a lot of it I’m sure) to make these videos for all of us.
Cheers!😁
well i guess i have to search for this cracle paste, this looks awesome. thank you boomer for showing
Hope you enjoy it!
Very nice Boomer. Interesting products. Most of my roads are already completed but I might have to scrap them and try these techniques with these products after watching this video.
You can never have too many roads! 😉
Another outstanding video with a lot of tips/tricks/techniques. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
Wonderful layout. Thanks for sharing.
O.K. Cheers!
I have a newfound love for higher-end art supplies and the effects you can achieve using them. Thanks, Boomer, see my Jr. Boomer parking lot with Crackle Paste.
Sounds awesome. I'll check it out. Cheers!
I love what you did with tow truck.
That truck model kit is from Showcase Miniatures. It's a fantastic kit.
I've really been looking forward to this video. It did not disappoint!! Thanks Boomer!!
O.K. Awesome!
Great lessons. I too had an allergic reaction to CA a while back. I was installing grab irons, and had my face real close to the model so I could see. Didn't have my fan on cause I didn't want the CA to dry out. Suffered for two days with sinus issues. Lesson learned. FAN = ON.
Yep. Fan in the shop for sure. ;-)
I get that with CA, I avoid using it on the layout. At the bench my solder fume extractor fan seems to make it much better.
An other great piece of work, so realistic! 👍
Cheers!
Man that was good. I remember an article way back from MR or RMC like this where fine sand was mixed in to get that realistic look.
Everything is out there if we look for it. Most hobbyists seem to avoid the art supply stores. ;-)
The crackle paste is an interesting effect. I’ll have to remember that for the future. I’m still installing my bridge. Rob
Sounds good!
this was really great video. learned a lot.
O.K. Thank you!
Looks outstanding. Thanks for the ideas.
Thank you. Cheers.
Hey Boomer
I’m a little late at commenting this week, real life carries on in the background eh? lol
Good stuff… love the end result . I especially love where the asphalt meets the ballast at the grade crossing , great look!
Anyway keep up the good work. Looking forward to the new section.
Cheers from Ontario
Bob
All good! Thank you Bob!
That was great. I I’ve been putting off doing some road work because I wasn’t sure about how to go about it. I’ve used styrene last time with good results. Needed another way of doing it this time. Thanks for the inspiration and showing how to do things. Thanks Boomer…👍🏻
I used styrene on Glover Road because I had it lying around in big sheets and wanted to use it up. I prefer sealed balsa wood and multiple layers of acrylic paste for effects. I only use acrylic to fill between the rails and close in track. The larger paved surfaces I love to use 1/8" Balsa Wood sealed with varathane - then effects with skimmed acrylic paste, etc.
With balsa wood you can easily cut it and shape it while adding to it as well. Plus it's light weight and stable beyond what plaster can only dream of.
Catzilla bringing scale to scenery😄
Yes indeed! ;-)
If I really ever got the chance to see your layout (ya, right), the first thing I’d do is to look under it for sewer pipes 😂 it would be just like you to do that 👍🏻😂 Ron
We see this with mining railroads . . . lol. ;-)
Amazing! really a work of art!! Good job!! still following you from Italy! Cheers
Hey . . . from Italy! Thank you. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Excellent VLOG btw, excellent tutorial as usual. Nice to see Dusty heading toward her corner 😂
The corner soon to be occupied. ;-)
Hi Boomer I use fine granite dust mixed with various fillers it gives a great concrete effect but have yet use the crackle past ,I’ll be in the hobby shop tomorrow. Regards Fred
O.K. sounds good. Cheers. ;-)
Very nice crossing Boomer!!
Here in Anderson Indiana NS
just rebuilt several crossings
on the old Big 4 line north and
this time instead of using the
the rubber inserts they just
lined the inside and outside
edges of the Rail heads with
ties and paved the crossing
with standard asphalt with
metal ends for low hanging
equipment on the train!!!
I'm looking forward to the plastic plant build!!! Cheers!!!!
Yes. You can use the rail head as well.
@boomerdioramas I liked your
comment on the Forklifts crossing
the tracks, before I became a
Trucker I worked at a Firestone
Rubber plant, we had a Conrail
siding to the plant, I had gotten my
work for my shift done a little early
one night and was out rummaging
thru the old discarded machines,
when I started back into the plant
I crossed back over the siding track
and one of the back tires of my
Forklift got stuck in the crossing,
my boss came out with a chain on
another lift and got me unstuck then
proceeded to tell me to stay on the
road, he told the day supervisor that
morning and he proceeded to tell me
a story about my supervisor, back when he worked on the dock he was
loading a Boxcar and lunch time came and he parked his lift in the
Boxcar and went to lunch, in the
meantime Conrail showed up and
took that Boxcar and left and when
he came back from lunch he freaked
out and told his boss and Firestone
had to contact Conrail and have them bring the Boxcar back!!!!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@conrailfan6277 Lol . . . that is hilarious.
@boomerdioramas I have another
good one to that, we were a Union
Plant, to get a forklift job you had to
get there on Seniority, this new forklift driver started on my shift and
She had to move bags of Carbon Black from the Receiving dock
up to the Banberry where the raw
rubber is mixed with the Carbon
Black, now these bags are about
7000 Lbs and they are sitting on
heavy duty skids, when She went
under the skid She had Her forks
slightly tilted up and they punctured
the bag and She didn't notice and
drove to the other end of the plant
with the bag leaking all of the Black
powder all the way down the Isle,
this plant was about 3 blocks long
from one end to the other, we spent
about 3 hours as a group sweeping
that stuff up so we could save as
much as we could, what a night!!!
Cheers!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Very nice work.
Thank you! Cheers!
I really love your layout! This overpass over the street is awesome! It makes me think of a two roads built similar in Saint Louis where I am from. NS and the switching railroad TRRA have lines that run across the street at ground level.
I'm glad you're enjoying it, and you're right, that overpass really adds a lot to the layout.
Good morning Boomer. You have said your shelf is 57 inches high. I have a non-railroad question. How does Rusty get up there? My two won't come near mine and its only 42 inches high. I enjoy your painting lessons and have been practicing the wash techniques you employ. Not quite Boomer quality, but certainly better than if I had not watched your tutorials. Please keep doing what you do.
If I leave the door open Dusty can just jump up there. Although, she won't if I am not working on it. She only seems interested when I am interested which is kind of cool. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama We have two cats, sisters 12years old. They can easily jump 2 metres onto a shelf. Your cat appears when you are working as a supervisor. The warning is.. if the cat doesn't approve it may piss, and that is a diabolically caustic fluid that will corrode metals AND destroy any MDF board/moulding, far worse than plain water will.
Another amazing video.
I think we'd all like to know more about how you did that flangeway. I didn't know I needed it till I watched this video. 😂😂
The actual video of the right angle didn't turn out. It was out of focus. But then this happens, unfortunately, when you shoot thousands of videos. Some fail. Hopefully I can revisit the technique again when I do the Glover Road part on section three.
@boomerdioramas I feel you I shot a video on detailing the interior of a structure about 30mins when I went to edit it it was gone.
@@JackOnTracks I lose video all the time due to out-of-focus or poor audio which I won't publish. It's tough when everything you do has to be organized to make it all work in limited time.
@boomerdioramas I'm trying to up my production quality it is like a whole new hobby in itself.
I’ve definitely used plaster as concrete. It does like to suck in moisture, which I think is something you were getting at partly. I don’t have track going over my sections so I felt free to use the varathane like what you’ve used before. It was night and day.
I’m excited, once we get into a new house I’m going to work in a shelf layout about the size of Glover Road and hopefully I’ll get to spend time on it similarly.
Varathane works wonders over plaster for sure. You just reminded me, I need to order some. ;-)
Perfect timing! I have two crossing I need to do. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I know you're not the biggest fan of electronics, but if you want your crossing lights completely prototype, let me know. I've designed and built a controller that would make you proud!
O.K. Thanks for sharing that. I have a few crossing gates from N.J. International but no controllers yet. ;-)
Another great video. I'm going to be doing at least a few road crossings, and this is chockablock full of things to try on at least a couple of them. On my second watch-through now and I know I'll be reviewing it again when I get ready for that first crossing later this month.
Thanks!
I don't know why, but railway crossings are one of my favorite features. Maybe because I drive over them everyday at work.
Thank you for your video. It was nice. Thank you for the time
You are welcome.
What a timely video.I have been thinking about redoing some roads on shelf layout. Using the acrylic median is great, as I use liquetex in my paintings. Thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice train layout I like it
Thank you!
Good class bud. I find that guys I know us plaster because of cost. The expense of artist supplies shies them away. I know my wife thinks I’m nuts for using our art supplies on my shelf layout. 🤪
Yeah . . . but those same guys have dozens of boxcars and rolling stock they wish they never purchased. What's a twenty dollar tub of acrylic at the end of the day? ;-)
Back in the 1970's I used putty. The problem was the loss of voltage at the crossing, the engines always hesitated. Great idea to use ceramic stucco.
That is interesting. I find that too much static grass between the track rails can cause some interference as well.
Amazing work as always. You truly inspire us to do our best. Could the yellow masking tape itself be used for road lines or is to too transparent?
I suppose you can but why not just paint it yellow with a tradition brush. You don't need an airbrush for painting over Tamiya masking tape.
Another great video Boomer! Love the colors and weathering of your track work. I have some tie/track painting to do in the near future and I hope I can execute your techniques even half as good as you have.
Have fun and don't be afraid to make mistakes. I still do all the time. ;-)
Another great video.
Thanks again!
I am reminded of (at least) 3 locations.
1. Cardiff Docks and the industrial/dockside trackage.
2. Barry Docks and the trackage around the flour mill and our 'sweeper berth (now gone).
3. Video footage of SP/UP/ASTF/ trackage in Wilmington CA taken from the air after a LPG powered truck explosion...
They all feel similar don't they?😁
wow i would have beleived a photo. excellent .........
It does feel like that sometimes. ;-)
You are the first person I have ever heard of that is also allergic to CA. I wound up in hospital after one marathon day of modelling using that stuff. On the brighter side, whenever I get asked by a medical professional if I have any allergies, it's fun to watch their face when I say "Sure, to Crazy Glue" !!! Great video on road construction. I can use that right away.
Yeah . . . especially fresh CA. Once I Get a whiff of that stuff I'm done.
I actually did start modeling some functioning storm sewers on my layout.well technically under my layout I guess.cant see most of it but I know it's there.
Now that is cool and I know how you feel. I model lot's of details that you cannot see easily but they are there. ;-)
Awesome tutorial!
Thank you!
Thank you. I hope that you show a show or series of redoing that hopper car that you're showing.
I will at some point. The future content list keeps growing. ;-)
You said the paint for the roadway area was "pre-thinned"... What do you thin the Model Air with?
For this type of application where I do not use an airbrush I use water to thin Model Air acrylic paint.😁
@@boomerdiorama so the first color that you put between the tracks on the paved section was thinned with water, dropped onto the lid, then more water to thin more before the blue/gray was added? I just want to make sure before I tackle this, I don't mess up...too much..🤷🏽♂️
I got a few paw prints in my ballast a few years back while it was setting up. Most got covered up but there's one you can see if you look for it. I was bent out of shape at first, but now it's kinda cool. Looks like a dino print.
👍😁
Thanks!
Thank You! I appreciate it!😁
It looks amazing as always Boomer. Out of curiosity, what materials would you use to approach a dirt road? A well packed road but maybe with some shallow ruts.
Most likely (water-based) Cell-Clay or Sculptamold. It has a nice texture, dry's hard and light weight. It also takes paint well. I love the stuff for terrain work as you describe.
Beauty Wally ... Boomer, I love the results you have achieved here. I've re-watched this video 3 times because I'd like to try the same methods. Would you mind elaborating just a little on how you construct the flangeways? So you have your flex track laid through the crossing area. Now you tack a piece of square tube styrene to the inside edge of the rail??? And then you glue a metal L angle to the inside of that to stay permanently when the styrene is removed??? Did I get that right??? If so, can you advise the size of the styrene square tube and size of the L angle that you used??? I guess the L angle needs to reflect the size of rail so that would depend upon me using code 83 or code 70 rail through the crossing right??? Sorry to be a pain in the but I'd really like to learn your method to try and achieve similar results... thanks for sharing.
The "L" angle is plastic as well. Just make sure the angle and the square stock are the same height. Find the size according to the code rail height. Just glue the angle (not the square stock) to the ties with small spots of super glue while holding the square stock against the inside of the rail. Skim coat the tracks several times with the acrylic paste.Then pull out the square stock when dry. The angle should stay in place. Then tweak and paint things. 😁
@@boomerdiorama Thank you very much for taking the time to respond... I really appreciate your talent, expertise and experience...
I used textured paste on my piggyback ramp...painted first...then washes....had 0 experience with the product and it came out great. Next time will be better now that i have a feel for it.
Awesome. The more you use this stuff the better you get at it. I mean the next time. The learning curve is quite rewarding in a short period of time. You can also pre-tint the acrylic paste with acrylic paint as well for additional effects. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
When applying the 4 X 4 to the inside of the track, what kind of glue do you use to make the plastic stick to the rail. Please!! I understand that the second time ( or other times ) that it is a press fit, but what about the first time??I love the fine tooled edge instead of the jagged scraped edge that comes with a saw blade. I've noticed that in some very used places here in Indiana the rail road has put metal in the space between the rails and this has to be replaces not near so much as the concrete or pavement. Also, when laying the 1/4 mile ribbon rail the road drops the rail along side the current rail. When they come to a crossing (at least here in my town) they dig a trench outside the track and place the new rail in the trench and then put pavement over the rail. This is a way to store the rail in one piece until they come to replace the current rail. I noticed that one of out steel plants has laid track just inside the main track and paved inside of that. The second track makes a very impressive flange area and looks great.
I sand the top of the ties (with 60 grit) to introduce "tooth" and then I use medium CA to clamp down the angle piece while tucking in the square stock. I put a bead of CA on the outside of the angle (middle of the track) so as not to glue in the square stock.
Then I fill with acrylic paste (between the angle stock) and skim it. The acrylic will anchor the angle in place over the CA once it cures, and the square stock will pull out easily. I love this method because it works beautifully if you see track as a model. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Thank you so much...
I'm also allergic to CA. It took some time to figure out, but whenever I used CA for more than a few minutes, next day I felt like a bad cold, just like a sore throat. I tried to use other glues but for some materials CA is the only stuff that works. I finally came across the green labeled odorless CA from Uhu. That stuff I can use for hours without ANY symptoms. I don't know if they sell it in Canada, but if they do I strongly recommend trying it.
I don't use CA much. I try not to use it all the time unless I need to clamp something. I don't use it as an adhesive for final builds etc.
@@boomerdiorama I work a lot with small 3D printed resin parts. I don't know any other glue that works for that job.
I noticed that these mediums in this video dried white and not clear ...am I right
The opaque mediums dry grey to white and the transparent mediums dry clear to satin. They also have flat and glossy versions as well. Golden and Liquitex cover all the bases and you can color tint them to your heart's content as well. ;-)
Duncan Way crossing over the moon 100%
It should look awesome when more is done!
Have a question. I am modeling an overpass embankment. I wan to make it from wood and then skim it with molding paste to make it look like concreter. Should I seal the wood with Varithane befor applying the paste?
Yes, absolutely good idea if you want to avoid cracking and deflection (warpage) that always happens three or four years later. ;-)
Love the look and plan to do similar myself. One concern i have, is how do you clean the track, for years to come, without damaging all the hardwork?
The acrylic cures hard as nails eventually and is just below the rail head. I never mentioned this, but you can pre-tint the acrylic medium to any color you want as well. When it cures you can sand it all day long without affecting the color other than scuffing it a little. Same goes for once you paint the ceramic layer. It looks like normal wear & tear.
Hey Boomer, do you mix the crackle paste and the stucco and the sand together as one mix and then lay it out, or do you do a separate layer of each on top of the other? Also, when you do multiple skim coats, I can see that it eventually adds some thickness. How do you hide the thickness at the edges ?
I like to skim coat separate layers while letting each one dry. This way you learn more about each product and the varied effects you can achieve for other purposes. There is some minimal thickness that occurs when you build up layers but they do shrink a fair bit so that minimizes any build up on the edges. You can also lightly sand after a few weeks cure time as well.
That cat.😀
Dusty is awesome!
Walther's used to have plastic hoppers but discontinued them nearly a decade ago which I don't understand why because they offer their plastic silo industry in their cornerstone series but discontinued the rail cars that go with the industry which doesn't make sense to me and it's very disappointing to me because I love using Walther's products on my layouts...
I do have a Walthers "Silo" kit I may use with IPEX Plastics for background structure.