knowing about your videos feels like cheating. I have no clue what my experience of the hobby would be without boomer's videos. and frankly, i dont want to know. thank you boomer, you've really defined the hobby for me and make me keep going.
When I did some writing for Railroad Model Craftsman, I used to spend time in their office. When the latest Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette would show up, we would all try to guess what was on the cover! In tie plates, they would stagger the spikes. Later on, if the spikes loosened, they would pull out the spikes and switch them then hammer wooden plugs into the used spike holes. Sometimes you would see tied up bundles of tie plugs along the right of way. I’m getting ready to do my track. I refer to your videos for advice. Thanks, love your modeling. Pat Dusty on the head.
Thanks for all of the inspiration. This is a great track plan, the time and thought put into it for realistic operations is just awe inspiring... best o scale micro layout on you tube, hands down. I finally caught up on all your videos from when I stopped modeling in the spring, when I got deep into restoring a "new-to-me" project car. It's too cold to pretend I'm a car guy, so I'm back to pretending I'm a modeler.
Such an encouragement coming back to modelling after 50 yrs a reminder of the sheer pleasure of experimenting and building up layers of washes. Thank you for sharing!
Boomer ... loved this series. My summer job back in 1967 was at the CP yard in Port Coquitlam - sweeping out the residual grain in the box cars in preparation for their return trip to the Prairies. Looking at your vignette - I can smell the grain and feel the heat. Boy I hated that job!
An hour very well spent for this N scale modeler. I have a O gauge Lionel FM Trainmaster locomotive (bought new by my father in the 1950's) that's been desperately in need of a proper display base. Thanks as always.
Hello BD, I don't watch every video of yours, but everyone who watches this video knows why your layout looks the way it does. Dedication to the smallest detail, very very good👍👍👍!!!!!
Boomer, I use Grandt Line tie plates. I asked if I bought them in bulk without the advertising on the packaging, would they give me a discount and they said yes! I saved a bunch of money. I use Code 125 steel rail, not nickel silver. steel because it actually has blue color in it. Your photo shows this. Right O Way sells it in bulk. When you paint the sides of the rail and leave the top unpainted, it looks like the real thing. Also, don’t forget rail joiners every 33 feet! It’s amazing how all these little details make a big impact! Life is an experiment. Enjoy the journey!
Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ Thank you Boomer for this series. Once again, I have learned from this series and reaffirmed stuff you taught in past videos. I still own my 1st O scale Lionel set from 1965. I have NOT weathered it as I think it should remain in "Original Played With Condition". Now after watching this series, I think about how cool I could make it look. Once again you have inspired me. I love the final touches you did with the leaking and sprouting grain. Your Faithful Student John
I’m an N scaler and a couple months ago I started to build a diorama in HO scale. Ballasting was SO much easier and more enjoyable. I’be even been making some simple HO kits for rolling stock. It’s HUGE! I’ll still be doing N scale, but I’m really hoping to make a small, thing HO scale layout for switching some of these new kit cars around. Basically, it seems like it works the same with larger scales too, seeing how nice it can look.
I model in N scale and sometimes get blocked up,so I do something else for a while and it works. This inspired me so much, that I got an O scale kit to give this a whirl. I had never thought about doing something in another scale, but I can see the benefit of being able to do something super detailed that my fat fingers should be able to handle without going nuts.😂. Thanks so much for the inspiration you provide. You have made me a much better maker.
Good work and tutorial as always. Rails: most of the time, not always, rails carry on one side who made them (Carnegie etc) weight in yard lenghts. 60 pounds rails are 2 17/64" tall. Extremely rare up to 136 pounds in Canada. Flat smaller tie plates were also used with "sharp" bottom waves to anchor more into ties. 3 model ties. The one like Boomer used. Different sizes in relation with trafic and weight density. Those ties have 4 sides cut straight. For branchline small budget, ties were cut straight on 2 sides only. Bottom and top. 2 other sides were left natural tree shape. Some light industrial, logging, extremely low budget used also crooked ties. In real life, trees don´t always grow straight. A crooked shape ties, cut on 2 sides here and there is gorgeous. Creosote is by far the most used wood preservative. In cooking summer weather we can see like on Boomer photo, creosote being softened, leaking out of the wood. Far less popular is green stuff like on some hydro pole. Here again no budget railroad used, mostly long time ago, no preservative at all. Ties would last 5 to 7 years, depending on soil type and wood species and in sunny location will turn silver like old barns. Some wood are mostly flat. Cedars have deep veins offering better tints and seasoning as they aged. Rails have 2 or 4 holes at each end for joint bars bolting. The heavier, the more bolts. A good idea to do when you leave old or replacement rails nearby or on pile along track. Maybe a newer rail have replaced an old one. Its rust color can be lighter. Nice detail to do. About useless details, many North American railroads put date nail on ties. On top, usually in the middle or close. These nails had date stamped in relief indicating which year the tie was put on the ground. If tie was remove with track dismantled, and reused somewhere else, a new year date nail was added. Not often but it happened, ties with 3 different date nais. Top of nail is usually round, but some used square ones. Pin of nails was also round like ordinary nail, with different lenght. Some used square pin. It was intetesting while walking on old track to watch these nails. When many had same date was an indication on wich year big ties replacement occured. Sadly in the begining of the 60' those costly date nails were replaced with stamping on tie end with rail size they suit and railroads initial. Old ties had nothing added on their ends. Then an "S" shape flat steel was added to avoid tie splitting. Now a rectangular thin steel plate is pinned in end for that reason. CNR (CV, GTW, DW&P) used date nails. CPR never did (to my knowledge).
Dear Boomer, absolutely agree on how the articles of “the narrow gauge gazette” influence one’s look on modeling. Love the ‘madness’ of these vids. Amazing piece of short line modeled tracks. Cheerio
Boomer, I LOVED the O scale series. No, I'm not going right out to find an Intermountain O Scale boxcar, but I enjoy "messing with" my boxcars in HO, and your techniques will be of some use. Plus, you provided some inspiration (as you usually do) to look at new techniques and to try to improve my skills.
What an excellent tutorial! I have some 2-rail O engines and a few cars I kept and made some quick bases using flex track and some flat interior vinyl trim baseboard moulding left over from a home project. Ballasted and weathered it was "good enough" to get some pieces displayed. I was going to make another but instead will use your method. I appreciate the tutorial on using styrene. I'm more comfortable with that than wood in modeling, so thank you for showing the way. I also like your using Vallejo model air as a brush paint. I was painting a camouflage pattern on the hull of a 1/200 ship model a year ago and the had a bottle of the "right" color. Instead of breaking out the airbrush, I sponged it on and it came out very well. And, yes, the O Intermountain cars are very nice. Thank you for this video. It was the best hour I've spent on modeling in a very long time!
Boomer. When I was modelling in my "O" gauge day's there's nothing like a train of "O" gauge rolling stock it seems to flow towards you down the track. It really is the ideal modelling size. Back then casting individual Ties in rubber moulds from "Denture Repair Powder" Fun times, long gone. But I did hear on the "Port Radio" that the ferry to River Road is making another run. Open wagon's of scrap steel this time. Cheers, Chris Perry
During heydays of railroad construction, no gravel ballast was used. It was just surrounding soil for economical reasons with any type of trees used for ties Straight, crooked cut on 2 sides. Later on small gravel that just grew up on size were used. Slags from steel foundry wal also used with their dark black brown color. In marble country like Vermont, crushed whitle marble was popular. When all around it was sand well sand did it. They used cheapest closely available there was/is. As time passed with less money to put on new builds railroads went more fancy on tree species for ties, more straight, larger with heavier tie plates and rails and railcars. Old low low budget cut on 2 sides crooked ties didn´t mean necessarely small in size. I´ve seen some more than 16" wide. Have fun now with your crazy realisticly builded track.
Another great series. When you said that you were going to use flesh as a fade for weathering the boxcar, I thought you had lost your mind. Well, it turned out beautifully, so I learned a new technique for weathering my rolling stock. FYI, styrene will yellow over time, so on the base, if you wanted it white, it should be painted white.
Another great video! This technique can apply to HO too I think. I know you did a video on HO ties for the stack by the factory. I have to go back and rewatch it. Even before weathering, it looks more like wood than wood.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you I knew it was there. Honestly even the old plywood you did on the farm house turned out amazing. The stain painting technique is the way to go.
You are a Master you give me such inspiration to do better work. And I use a old or new stocking attitude to the vacuum hose this way it doesn't go into the tub and easily to collect the grass
Boomer Your Work is Amazing ! Such in the detail and depth to your modeling is Inspiring ! I think your tie plates are slightly Large for O scale Track ? My tie plates measure approx 6 inches wide x 9 inches long . I realize they do vary some in actual real dimension however . None the less they Look Awesome on your Diorama ! Congrats Keep UP the Very Talented WORK !
@boomerdioramas ohh Ok , they just looked a bit large on my screen ... But that IS the correct size I am quite sure . I model On3 , and I use tie plates and even bolted rail joiners at some places on my layout . It's probably overkill , but detail is my thing ! Lol. As I can see, it is Yours as well ! Thanks for sharing your videos and your amazing skill !
This is the video I’ve been looking for! I ordered the buff and earth brown that you recommend. The challenge for me is I’m painting peco plastic ties that I already sprayed with rustoleum camo brown. Wondering if I should first paint all the ties buff and then add washes and browns etc afterward? I have already used an xacto to score up the plastic ties which gives a nice cracked aged look. Paul B
@@boomerdiorama I found a solution…since the ties have already been scored and painted with a matte camo brown, I put an oil-based black wash on them to bring out the cracks and ruts. Then to give the ties a faded look, I used a light Vallejo pigment powder, but was careful not to get it into the cracks where the black wash had settled. Effect is nice. I’ll likely have to hit it all again once I add and glue the dirty ballast. At that point, I’ll add some rust wash and pigment powder around the tie plates. Then the overgrowth. Every little scene creates its own project and learning experience. Appreciate your insights.
“As Boomer puts all his HO stuff on eBay and converts to O….” 😁😁 the next layout! After the current art piece. The smaller tie plate and rail looks like 115 lb rail. The larger tie plate is definitely 132/136 lb plate.
Thanks for the great video!! Will try out some things soon after I get my static applicator built. Start with making some simple grass tufts that I can place on layout. Planing to make them on a thin silicone sheet with an aluminum cookie sheet underneath. Gotta buy some matte medium, also. Question: Have you ever experimented with adding some earth colors to the matte medium? I'm thinking that might make for nice grass tufts. Cheers ...
You can add just about any acrylic paint or earth colors to matte medium - go for it! You might want to try using a metal cookie pan for your grass tufts (lined with parchment paper). You can clip on the electrostatic alligator clip to it from the static grass applicator. 😉
Fascinating! I found myself wondering how you get the ends of the ties so delightfully ragged. The only way I can think of is scraping with the saw teeth. Also, the irregularly curved splinters on the sides of the some of the rails. Do you first score the plastic and then wedge the splinter up? Thank you for your videos. I look forward to each of them.
Yes. You are correct. I scribe randomly first. After each tie is laid (unpainted), I pic out certain ties with a #11 blade, and pic tool, to add more character - then I paint them as they are fixed in place. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Noticed that the holes on the larger tie plate were not in line at all. Like you said most lickly to reduce the tie splitting possibility. Time stamp 31:24..
@@boomerdiorama Yes. When I was young my Dad taught me to see these things. I usually don't point them out because I have had so many negative reactions. I knew that you would be different and receptive to my noticing this. Cheers!!
Oh, one more thing. You are right about not using brown paint. It has too much red in it. The color is dependent on the area of the country you are modeling. I model the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains which gets very little rain compared to the west side of the range. There is a lot more reddish brown on the rainy west side compared to the east side of Donner Pass.
You mentioned spraying the boxcar with a flat clear coat in the past video. I may have missed you mentioning which one it was, is it possible to share that information?
Boomer, great video on track philosophy, and how the track and the ballast really set your model (railway) off (sorry, in Australia we use railway, not railroad). Quick question, do you mix up your matte medium 50/50 with water as a batch, or only as you use it? I just think a batch lot in a sealed bottle would save time. Thank you for sharing, it has been very inspirational, and the final model is fantastic. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
I only mix it as I use it. I find that it separates (in the bottle) after awhile when I pre-mix it. I also like to be in control (on the fly), when I mix matte medium as I glue other varied material and medium. Some times I use straight matte medium and chase it with water, etc. I don't save time really by pre-mixing as I mix while I work. ;-)
Boomer, I've been following you for the better part of a year, and have learned much from your high quality videos. I've taken detailed notes on your telephone/power poles videos, which I plan to make for my layout. Now, my question (if you can remember): what brand is the pencil sharpener?
Fantastic Boomer!!! Quick question... What did you use on the initial coloring of the styrene ties? Did you just use an initial wash of a few of the colors you use to continue coloring the ties?
Good Question. I usually start with a very thin wash of dark brown or dark sea grey. Just enough to tint the initial engraving lines. I like to let the "white plastic" surface show through until the very end as a guide to highlighting - or rather a reminder not to cover things up in one layer.
Hello Boomer, have you realized, that you have produced an ASMR Video with the rustling paper on your workbench. It sometimes fellt, that I can feel the fur is growing on my neck and on my back. Bat anyway, it is a very nice base for the boxcar.
Wow! Just... wow! But, you left out the part I was waiting for when I saw what spikes you used. Way back, and I mean about 20 years ago, ME spikes were quite nice. The last 5 or 6 years now, I notice the heads of their spikes are very poorly formed. Too long, raised ends, etc. Looking at your finished product, you obviously either selectively picked out some good spikes, or you cut and reformed the heads of them. C'mon, own up, what'd you do?
It has been about three weeks, and I'm still trying to understand the opening statement in this video. You said " Prototype Accuracy and Realism are Mutually Exclusive". I just don't seem to be able to get my head around that, unless you mean selective compression, which doesn't seem to fit in this instance. Perhaps a mid week video showing examples of exactly what you mean? You are, after all, the final word in all this. At least, in my opinion.
What I mean is, you can build a layout that looks realistic without being prototypical accurate. You can also build prototypical subjects that overwhelm the scene and do not look realistic in the layout footprint.
Thank you for sharing. Wow! Just Wow! I always learn a lot. Thank you again for sharing.
My pleasure!
knowing about your videos feels like cheating. I have no clue what my experience of the hobby would be without boomer's videos. and frankly, i dont want to know. thank you boomer, you've really defined the hobby for me and make me keep going.
I love to hear how other modelers reap the rewards in this wonderful hobby we all share. Cheers ~ Boomer.
As always Boomer, so entertaining and educational. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers.
When I did some writing for Railroad Model Craftsman, I used to spend time in their office. When the latest Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette would show up, we would all try to guess what was on the cover!
In tie plates, they would stagger the spikes. Later on, if the spikes loosened, they would pull out the spikes and switch them then hammer wooden plugs into the used spike holes. Sometimes you would see tied up bundles of tie plugs along the right of way. I’m getting ready to do my track. I refer to your videos for advice. Thanks, love your modeling. Pat Dusty on the head.
Those details you mention look awesome in O Scale. I love that trackside right-of-way stuff. Cheers, ;-)
That is amazing. You captured the look of the old weathered ties perfectly. Really impressive.
😁Thank you. Imagine doing a whole layout like that . . . lol. You have to be a little insane. 😉
@@boomerdiorama not just a little insane ! The type with long long sleeve to ties your hands in your back.🫨🤪🙃
Ha! Challlenge Accepted! @@boomerdiorama
Simply outstanding!
Many thanks!
You sir are an inspiration to the model train hobby, thanks Boomer!
Wow, thanks!
Nobody better then Boomer..IMO. TY for your time educating and sharing....
You are very kind and encouraging to the channel. Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks for all of the inspiration. This is a great track plan, the time and thought put into it for realistic operations is just awe inspiring... best o scale micro layout on you tube, hands down. I finally caught up on all your videos from when I stopped modeling in the spring, when I got deep into restoring a "new-to-me" project car. It's too cold to pretend I'm a car guy, so I'm back to pretending I'm a modeler.
Go for it!
Such an encouragement coming back to modelling after 50 yrs a reminder of the sheer pleasure of experimenting and building up layers of washes. Thank you for sharing!
Wonderful!
Boomer ... loved this series. My summer job back in 1967 was at the CP yard in Port Coquitlam - sweeping out the residual grain in the box cars in preparation for their return trip to the Prairies. Looking at your vignette - I can smell the grain and feel the heat. Boy I hated that job!
Lol . . . I think my Dad did that for awhile back in the day. He only lasted a year . . . lol.
WoW that really looks great !
Thank you! Cheers!
An hour very well spent for this N scale modeler. I have a O gauge Lionel FM Trainmaster locomotive (bought new by my father in the 1950's) that's been desperately in need of a proper display base. Thanks as always.
Thank you! Cheers. 😁
Hello BD, I don't watch every video of yours, but everyone who watches this video knows why your layout looks the way it does. Dedication to the smallest detail, very very good👍👍👍!!!!!
I appreciate that!
Cool, thanks!
Boomer,
I use Grandt Line tie plates. I asked if I bought them in bulk without the advertising on the packaging, would they give me a discount and they said yes! I saved a bunch of money.
I use Code 125 steel rail, not nickel silver. steel because it actually has blue color in it. Your photo shows this. Right O Way sells it in bulk. When you paint the sides of the rail and leave the top unpainted, it looks like the real thing.
Also, don’t forget rail joiners every 33 feet! It’s amazing how all these little details make a big impact!
Life is an experiment. Enjoy the journey!
Thanks for sharing.
Well done, Sir. Thank you!
Thank you kindly!
Greetings From Colorful Colorado WJ
Thank you Boomer for this series. Once again, I have learned from this series and reaffirmed stuff you taught in past videos. I still own my 1st O scale Lionel set from 1965. I have NOT weathered it as I think it should remain in "Original Played With Condition". Now after watching this series, I think about how cool I could make it look. Once again you have inspired me. I love the final touches you did with the leaking and sprouting grain.
Your Faithful Student
John
Yes indeed. Keep that old Lionel set in original condition. ;-)
Alltough doing N-scale with ready made tiny black sleepers I am learning a lot from this video.
Thanks!
N scale can look equally well if you focus in. I just don't have the "eagle" eyes for it anymore like I once did. ;-) Cheers!
I’m an N scaler and a couple months ago I started to build a diorama in HO scale. Ballasting was SO much easier and more enjoyable. I’be even been making some simple HO kits for rolling stock. It’s HUGE! I’ll still be doing N scale, but I’m really hoping to make a small, thing HO scale layout for switching some of these new kit cars around.
Basically, it seems like it works the same with larger scales too, seeing how nice it can look.
Yes. Ballasting is basically the same for any scale. ;-)
Awesome !!!! Well presented and a very realistic result.....oh, ya Missed the fish plates!!
-Alerx
Thank you! Cheers!
I model in N scale and sometimes get blocked up,so I do something else for a while and it works. This inspired me so much, that I got an O scale kit to give this a whirl. I had never thought about doing something in another scale, but I can see the benefit of being able to do something super detailed that my fat fingers should be able to handle without going nuts.😂. Thanks so much for the inspiration you provide. You have made me a much better maker.
I always learn something new when I model an O Scale subject. "O" (1/48) scale is an awesome scale to model small buildings as well. Cheers.
Good work and tutorial as always.
Rails: most of the time, not always, rails carry on one side who made them (Carnegie etc) weight in yard lenghts. 60 pounds rails are 2 17/64" tall. Extremely rare up to 136 pounds in Canada.
Flat smaller tie plates were also used with "sharp" bottom waves to anchor more into ties.
3 model ties. The one like Boomer used. Different sizes in relation with trafic and weight density. Those ties have 4 sides cut straight.
For branchline small budget, ties were cut straight on 2 sides only. Bottom and top. 2 other sides were left natural tree shape.
Some light industrial, logging, extremely low budget used also crooked ties. In real life, trees don´t always grow straight. A crooked shape ties, cut on 2 sides here and there is gorgeous.
Creosote is by far the most used wood preservative. In cooking summer weather we can see like on Boomer photo, creosote being softened, leaking out of the wood.
Far less popular is green stuff like on some hydro pole.
Here again no budget railroad used, mostly long time ago, no preservative at all. Ties would last 5 to 7 years, depending on soil type and wood species and in sunny location will turn silver like old barns.
Some wood are mostly flat. Cedars have deep veins offering better tints and seasoning as they aged.
Rails have 2 or 4 holes at each end for joint bars bolting. The heavier, the more bolts. A good idea to do when you leave old or replacement rails nearby or on pile along track.
Maybe a newer rail have replaced an old one. Its rust color can be lighter. Nice detail to do.
About useless details, many North American railroads put date nail on ties. On top, usually in the middle or close. These nails had date stamped in relief indicating which year the tie was put on the ground. If tie was remove with track dismantled, and reused somewhere else, a new year date nail was added. Not often but it happened, ties with 3 different date nais. Top of nail is usually round, but some used square ones. Pin of nails was also round like ordinary nail, with different lenght. Some used square pin. It was intetesting while walking on old track to watch these nails. When many had same date was an indication on wich year big ties replacement occured. Sadly in the begining of the 60' those costly date nails were replaced with stamping on tie end with rail size they suit and railroads initial.
Old ties had nothing added on their ends. Then an "S" shape flat steel was added to avoid tie splitting. Now a rectangular thin steel plate is pinned in end for that reason. CNR (CV, GTW, DW&P) used date nails. CPR never did (to my knowledge).
Thanks for sharing! Cheers.
Beautiful. Great work as always.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice to see Dusty helpful on river road every through doing o scale nice to adapt to HO weathering and track weathering track
She loves the layout. Somewhat bummed out ;lately because I have not made her a new place for napping on section three - yet. But soon. Cheers.
Such a wonderful and inspirational video, you have out-done yourself! As always, amazing videography/commentary and inspiration for all!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thoroughly enjoyed the 3 part series Boomer - very inspirational. Love the growth under the door openings.
Thank you. 😁
Dear Boomer, absolutely agree on how the articles of “the narrow gauge gazette” influence one’s look on modeling. Love the ‘madness’ of these vids. Amazing piece of short line modeled tracks. Cheerio
Many thanks!
Boomer, I LOVED the O scale series. No, I'm not going right out to find an Intermountain O Scale boxcar, but I enjoy "messing with" my boxcars in HO, and your techniques will be of some use. Plus, you provided some inspiration (as you usually do) to look at new techniques and to try to improve my skills.
It's a good primer for me as well when I decide to weather some HO Scale cars. ;-)
What an excellent tutorial!
I have some 2-rail O engines and a few cars I kept and made some quick bases using flex track and some flat interior vinyl trim baseboard moulding left over from a home project. Ballasted and weathered it was "good enough" to get some pieces displayed. I was going to make another but instead will use your method.
I appreciate the tutorial on using styrene. I'm more comfortable with that than wood in modeling, so thank you for showing the way.
I also like your using Vallejo model air as a brush paint. I was painting a camouflage pattern on the hull of a 1/200 ship model a year ago and the had a bottle of the "right" color. Instead of breaking out the airbrush, I sponged it on and it came out very well.
And, yes, the O Intermountain cars are very nice.
Thank you for this video. It was the best hour I've spent on modeling in a very long time!
Thank you for taking the time to share your modeling experience. The hobby is awesome isn't it? Cheers! ~ Boomer.
Boomer. When I was modelling in my "O" gauge day's there's nothing like a train of "O" gauge rolling stock it seems to flow towards you down the track. It really is the ideal modelling size. Back then casting individual Ties in rubber moulds from "Denture Repair Powder" Fun times, long gone. But I did hear on the "Port Radio" that the ferry to River Road is making another run. Open wagon's of scrap steel this time. Cheers, Chris Perry
That is interesting Chris. Thanks for the update. I have not been down to the Barge Slip in awhile. Need to make another visit. Cheers.👍
Stunning! I bet if photographed outside it would be difficult to distinguish if real or not.
Of all things my wife loves it and she won't let it leave the house . . . lol. Maybe I can convince her to become a model railroader. ;-)
great point of view about track, and ballast. Very inspiring. Thank you.
😁Thank you!
During heydays of railroad construction, no gravel ballast was used. It was just surrounding soil for economical reasons with any type of trees used for ties
Straight, crooked cut on 2 sides. Later on small gravel that just grew up on size were used. Slags from steel foundry wal also used with their dark black brown color. In marble country like Vermont, crushed whitle marble was popular. When all around it was sand well sand did it. They used cheapest closely available there was/is. As time passed with less money to put on new builds railroads went more fancy on tree species for ties, more straight, larger with heavier tie plates and rails and railcars.
Old low low budget cut on 2 sides crooked ties didn´t mean necessarely small in size. I´ve seen some more than 16" wide.
Have fun now with your crazy realisticly builded track.
Thank you for sharing! Cheers.
It's absolutely a winner Boomer! Now if I can get this little HO CNR 40' boxcar to look half that good. Spectacular work indeed! Cheers 😃
Thanks 👍
Great job Boomer, love the end result and how you got there! Thanks!
Thank you Ralph! Now go share more secrets to the younger generation. ;-) ~ Cheers ~ Boomer.
As usual👍👍👍
Thanks again!
Another great series. When you said that you were going to use flesh as a fade for weathering the boxcar, I thought you had lost your mind. Well, it turned out beautifully, so I learned a new technique for weathering my rolling stock.
FYI, styrene will yellow over time, so on the base, if you wanted it white, it should be painted white.
Yup. For sure. i paint all plastic regardless. ;-)
Another great video!
This technique can apply to HO too I think. I know you did a video on HO ties for the stack by the factory. I have to go back and rewatch it.
Even before weathering, it looks more like wood than wood.
Thank you. I did do HO Scale ties here: ruclips.net/video/TiBhKEc9M-s/видео.html
@@boomerdiorama Thank you I knew it was there. Honestly even the old plywood you did on the farm house turned out amazing. The stain painting technique is the way to go.
You are a Master you give me such inspiration to do better work. And I use a old or new stocking attitude to the vacuum hose this way it doesn't go into the tub and easily to collect the grass
That is awesome!
Awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers! ~ Boomer.
Amazing work! Really enjoyed watching the video, for my next layout, i hope what to do with the tracks... 😊
You can do it!
Nice looking track!
Thank you! Cheers! ~ Boomer.
Boomer Your Work is Amazing ! Such in the detail and depth to your modeling is Inspiring !
I think your tie plates are slightly Large for O scale Track ? My tie plates measure approx 6 inches wide x 9 inches long . I realize they do vary some in actual real dimension however . None the less they Look Awesome on your Diorama ! Congrats
Keep UP the Very Talented WORK !
These O Scale ones I built are 7" x 9" just like the prototype in the pics I showed but thank you very much!😁
@boomerdioramas ohh
Ok , they just looked a bit large on my screen ...
But that IS the correct size
I am quite sure .
I model On3 , and I use tie plates and even bolted rail
joiners at some places on my layout . It's probably overkill , but detail is my thing ! Lol. As I can see, it is Yours as well !
Thanks for sharing your videos and your amazing skill !
The opening photo is very yoda-esque, moving the locomotives using only the force.
The Kid . . . ;-)
One 'like' for the music !
Yes. Love the Classical music. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Lovely!!! ♥
Thank you! 😊
This is the video I’ve been looking for! I ordered the buff and earth brown that you recommend. The challenge for me is I’m painting peco plastic ties that I already sprayed with rustoleum camo brown. Wondering if I should first paint all the ties buff and then add washes and browns etc afterward? I have already used an xacto to score up the plastic ties which gives a nice cracked aged look. Paul B
Wonderful!
@@boomerdiorama I found a solution…since the ties have already been scored and painted with a matte camo brown, I put an oil-based black wash on them to bring out the cracks and ruts. Then to give the ties a faded look, I used a light Vallejo pigment powder, but was careful not to get it into the cracks where the black wash had settled. Effect is nice. I’ll likely have to hit it all again once I add and glue the dirty ballast. At that point, I’ll add some rust wash and pigment powder around the tie plates. Then the overgrowth. Every little scene creates its own project and learning experience. Appreciate your insights.
“As Boomer puts all his HO stuff on eBay and converts to O….” 😁😁 the next layout! After the current art piece. The smaller tie plate and rail looks like 115 lb rail. The larger tie plate is definitely 132/136 lb plate.
Thanks for sharing the technical info Roger. Much appreciated. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Does Dusty know you used its comb lol. Great video, love the story's
Yes! Thank you!
Thanks for the great video!! Will try out some things soon after I get my static applicator built. Start with making some simple grass tufts that I can place on layout. Planing to make them on a thin silicone sheet with an aluminum cookie sheet underneath. Gotta buy some matte medium, also. Question: Have you ever experimented with adding some earth colors to the matte medium? I'm thinking that might make for nice grass tufts. Cheers ...
You can add just about any acrylic paint or earth colors to matte medium - go for it! You might want to try using a metal cookie pan for your grass tufts (lined with parchment paper). You can clip on the electrostatic alligator clip to it from the static grass applicator. 😉
Fascinating! I found myself wondering how you get the ends of the ties so delightfully ragged. The only way I can think of is scraping with the saw teeth. Also, the irregularly curved splinters on the sides of the some of the rails. Do you first score the plastic and then wedge the splinter up? Thank you for your videos. I look forward to each of them.
Yes. You are correct. I scribe randomly first. After each tie is laid (unpainted), I pic out certain ties with a #11 blade, and pic tool, to add more character - then I paint them as they are fixed in place. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Noticed that the holes on the larger tie plate were not in line at all. Like you said most lickly to reduce the tie splitting possibility. Time stamp 31:24..
Wow! Great observation! Easy to overlook that eh?👍😉
@@boomerdiorama Yes. When I was young my Dad taught me to see these things. I usually don't point them out because I have had so many negative reactions. I knew that you would be different and receptive to my noticing this. Cheers!!
Oh, one more thing. You are right about not using brown paint. It has too much red in it. The color is dependent on the area of the country you are modeling. I model the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains which gets very little rain compared to the west side of the range. There is a lot more reddish brown on the rainy west side compared to the east side of Donner Pass.
Yes. It helps to study photos as well.
You mentioned spraying the boxcar with a flat clear coat in the past video. I may have missed you mentioning which one it was, is it possible to share that information?
I use Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear. I mentioned that in the previous paint tutorial.
@@boomerdiorama must have missed it. Thank you.
Boomer, great video on track philosophy, and how the track and the ballast really set your model (railway) off (sorry, in Australia we use railway, not railroad).
Quick question, do you mix up your matte medium 50/50 with water as a batch, or only as you use it? I just think a batch lot in a sealed bottle would save time.
Thank you for sharing, it has been very inspirational, and the final model is fantastic.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
I only mix it as I use it. I find that it separates (in the bottle) after awhile when I pre-mix it. I also like to be in control (on the fly), when I mix matte medium as I glue other varied material and medium. Some times I use straight matte medium and chase it with water, etc. I don't save time really by pre-mixing as I mix while I work. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Thanks for that. Michael
Boomer, I've been following you for the better part of a year, and have learned much from your high quality videos. I've taken detailed notes on your telephone/power poles videos, which I plan to make for my layout. Now, my question (if you can remember): what brand is the pencil sharpener?
It's made in Germany. Not sure about the name as there is no name on it. Sorry. ;-)
@@boomerdioramaThanks. I was able to locate and purchased one. It's a Klum - made in Germany, $5.45 -Amazon.
Fantastic Boomer!!!
Quick question... What did you use on the initial coloring of the styrene ties? Did you just use an initial wash of a few of the colors you use to continue coloring the ties?
Good Question. I usually start with a very thin wash of dark brown or dark sea grey. Just enough to tint the initial engraving lines. I like to let the "white plastic" surface show through until the very end as a guide to highlighting - or rather a reminder not to cover things up in one layer.
Wow. I learned a lot. A lot to learn. What is your best practice for painting or coloring the rail?
I usually paint the rail with airbrush and traditional brush. It depends how I feel at the time. ;-)
Once join the Dark (O scale)side. Forever it will control your destiny. LOL
Lol . . . I was there once. I'm with the rebellion now. ;-)
👍👍👍👌
Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer.
PS this channel gave you a mention.
Gaz3801
Yes . . . thank you. Cheers and thanks for the heads up. ~ Boomer.
A piece of straight Kato Ho track glued down with white glue some weathering powder an bada bing bada bang! Ok, im not a pro but I can fake it! 😂
Sounds great. Just remember - white glue (PVA) does not like IPA. Isopropyl Alcohol will peel it from the plastic. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Yes, you are correct! Your videos and modeling skills are super! Always enjoy watching them!
👍🤠👍
Cheers Randy! ~ Boomer. 😁
Hello Boomer, have you realized, that you have produced an ASMR Video with the rustling paper on your workbench. It sometimes fellt, that I can feel the fur is growing on my neck and on my back. Bat anyway, it is a very nice base for the boxcar.
Yes. I realized that parchment paper thing. Sorry about that.
@@boomerdiorama you know, Bob Ross was so successful with Joy of Painting, because it has been the first Series of ASMR Films.
Wow! Just... wow!
But, you left out the part I was waiting for when I saw what spikes you used. Way back, and I mean about 20 years ago, ME spikes were quite nice. The last 5 or 6 years now, I notice the heads of their spikes are very poorly formed. Too long, raised ends, etc. Looking at your finished product, you obviously either selectively picked out some good spikes, or you cut and reformed the heads of them. C'mon, own up, what'd you do?
It was an older pack. ;-)
It has been about three weeks, and I'm still trying to understand the opening statement in this video. You said " Prototype Accuracy and Realism are Mutually Exclusive". I just don't seem to be able to get my head around that, unless you mean selective compression, which doesn't seem to fit in this instance. Perhaps a mid week video showing examples of exactly what you mean? You are, after all, the final word in all this. At least, in my opinion.
What I mean is, you can build a layout that looks realistic without being prototypical accurate. You can also build prototypical subjects that overwhelm the scene and do not look realistic in the layout footprint.